Presentation of the. Anita Buzengeiger, Daniela Smith, September 2017

Transcription

1 Presentation of the Anita Buzengeiger, Daniela Smith, September 2017

2 The AMANN Group Foundation: 1854 Headquarters: Boennigheim / Germany Position: one of the global leaders in the field of high-quality sewing and embroidery threads Daily production output: approx. 1 Million kilometres (25 times around the earth or enough for 2 Million men s suits) Group Turnover: approx. 150 Million / year Employees: 2000 worldwide Product range: sewing and embroidery threads Divisions: Apparel, Shoes & Leather, Embroidery, Home Interior, Automotive, Techtex, Consumer AMANN Group

3 Application fields AMANN Group

4 Some of our customers AMANN Group

5 Some of our customers AMANN Group

6 Some of our customers AMANN Group

7 Some of our customers AMANN Group

8 Headquarters and Production Sites Headquarter: Boennigheim, Germany Augsburg, Germany Chribska, Czech Republic Manchester, Great Britain Brasov, Romania Yancheng, China Dhaka, Bangladesh AMANN Group

9 Worldwide Presence AMANN subsidiaries in 21 countries: Austria Bangladesh Bulgaria China Czech Republic France Great Britain Hong Kong Hungary India Indonesia Italy Maroc Poland Portugal Romania Switzlerand Slovakia Spain USA Vietnam AMANN agencies in more than 100 countries! AMANN Group

10 Customer Service & Technical Support Worldwide sewing advisory at customer s local production sites Technical trainings / professional lectures Sewing tests and analysis in AMANN sewing laboratory Sewing recommendations / standardised processing tests Special dyeing and colour service (Datacolour) Calculation of sewing thread consumption AMANN Group

11 Sustainability at AMANN Group AMANN Group

12 We care about a fair cooperation AMANN s Code of Coduct valid worldwide: Social Responsibility Sustainable Product development Sustainable packaging Sustainable production AMANN Group 12

13 We care about a fair cooperation: Integrity in terms of respecting law, honesty, reliability and fairness - has always been the foundation on which we built our success and handle our business relations. Learn more in the complete AMANN Code of Conduct which is available on our website every country: All factories were built according to high German standards and equipped with brand new machinery and technology. the environment: AMANN has been setting the focus on the ecological profile of all its production sites in order to reduce energy, fresh and waste water, dyes, chemicals AMANN Group

14 Certified all around the world Quality Management Quality Management Automotive Certification for textile products Environmental Management Energy Management AMANN Group

15 Sustainable Product Management Sustainable Products Production and dyeing processes of synthetic fibres feature a better eco-balance than those of cotton products: significantly lesser consumption of water and energy significantly reduced use of dyes and chemicals no use of pesticides NO PFC: AMANNs new WRe finish (WR = water-repellent) does not contain PFC PFC (perfluorocarbons) is toxic and not biodegradable all AMANN threads with WR finish are ecologically harmless and certified according to STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX Learn more in the AMANN Environmental Statement via: AMANN Group

16 AMANN s Road to Zero restricted substances* AMANN s Road to Zero AP/ APEO 1 Dyes carcinogenic & allergenic Chlorophenols PAH s 2 Glycols Flame retardants VOC s 3 PFC s 4 Chlorobenzenes/ toluenes Hal. Solvents Phthalates Dyes - AZO (restricted amines) Organotins *based on ZDHC (MRSL list), Greenpeace Detox 2020 Plan; also in compliance with REACh 1) Alkylphenols/Alkylphenolethoxylates 2) Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons 3) Volatile Organic Compounds 4) Perfluorcarbons AMANN Group 16

17 AMANN s Road to Zero restricted substances* AMANN s Road to Zero AP/ APEO 1 Dyes carcinogenic & allergenic Chlorophenols PAH s 2 Glycols Flame retardants VOC s 3 PFC s Chlorobenzenes/ toluenes Hal. Solvents Phthalates Dyes - AZO (restricted amines) Organotins *based on ZDHC (MRSL list), Greenpeace Detox 2020 Plan; also in compliance with REACh AMANN Group 17

18 Sustainability in our production plants AMANN solely produces in own production sites across Europe and Asia with a permanent focus on sustainability. AMANN ensures the same high quality standards for all production sites worldwide: Same machinery & technology Centralised procurement FAIRNESS & EFFICIENCY OPTIMISATION BY STANDARDISATION Regular audits Same qualification of staff AMANN Group

19 Our production plants Dye house in Augsburg, Germany All our dye houses are linked, contain own cohesive water circulation systems, and use the same recipes! Dye house in Dhaka, Bangladesh Dye house in Yancheng, China Automatic dye stuff dispension AMANN Group

20 AMANN factory in Yancheng, China AMANN Group

21 AMANN factory in Yancheng, China AMANN Group

22 AMANN factory in Yancheng, China AMANN Group

23 AMANN s sustainable use of resources Waste reduction & recycling Recycling of PP spools Reduction of paper wastage Water & energy management LED project Heat recovery system Efficient machinery Water recycling project Closed water circulations Sewage plants AMANN Group

24 Example: Water recycling Project Target: 90% re-use of water Target: Reduction of fresh water consumption to a minimum Solution: dye houses will be equipped with nanofiltration devices Test installment in 2016 for dye houses in Germany & Bangladesh AMANN Group 24

25 1 1 1 Example: Recycling of PP spools Granulate can be further used for other PP products 4 1 Used polypropylene (PP) dye spools are collected after bonding and/or final winding. They have become distorted/deformed during the dyeing process and therefore they cannot be used again in this condition. The outcome: very fine granulate 3 2 The spools are fed into a shredding machine which granulates the polypropylene into ~5mm 2 granules. AMANN Group

26 Example: Recyclable spools All AMANN spools are made of 100% recyclable polypropylene! AMANN Group

27 Example: LED s go LED Project In 2015, the production plants in Germany, China and Bangladesh replaced all fluorescent tubes with LED tubes. Advantages of LED tubes: Energy saving (more than 60%) Higher life expectancy (5 times higher) Minor evolution of heat No UV or IR radiation No switch-on delay No jitter Contain no toxic mercury LED s go LED LED tube application at the Bangladesh plant AMANN Group

28 Beispiel: LED s go LED Projekt (AMANN Bangladesh) One-time costs for acquisation of LED tubes: Energy consumption (kwh/p.a.) Before the change: kwh After the change: kwh 66,65 % saving Saving: kwh/p.a. Total costs ( /p.a.) Before the change: After the change: ,66 % saving Saving: /p.a. Annual saving of CO2 emissions: 308,6 t This corresponds to the CO2 emission of 401 single flights Frankfurt New York single flights Frankfurt London a km drive in a Porsche 718 Cayman a km drive in an Audi A4 2.0 TDI AMANN Group

29 Social Responsibility Hanns A. Pielenz Foundation AMANN Group is part of Hanns A. Pielenz Foundation which is named after its founder who has been the CEO of AMANN from 1968 till Through the transfer of his shares to the foundation, Hanns A. Pielenz ensured the continuation of the traditional family business and a long-term support of regional cultural and charitable institutions. The purpose of the foundation is the raising of funds to promote art and culture, science and research as well as formation and education. The foundation supports, amongst others, the following institutions and projects: Teach the teacher Oncology Research Project ARCHE IntensivKinder Festival Theatre Baden-Baden University Hospital Heidelberg Childcare Home Kusterdingen AMANN Group

30 Let s talk about sewing threads 30

31 Actually nobody cares about sewing threads..but many people (should) care about seam quality! 31

32 What means: seam quality Seam stability Seam breaking strength Seam slippage Individual productrelated criteria Watertight Weather-proof Heat resistance Chemical resistance Conductive performance Dye able Seam elasticity Seam quality criteria Care properties Harmony of care properties Resistance to a hard wash and care processes Surface feel Touch Softness Abrasion resistance In case of special optical appearance (Jeans) In case of extreme usage Optical Appearance Even Sportive Almost invisible Decorative and thick Special stitch type AMANN GROUP / Global Marketing 2016 / Buz 32

33 Our product range Transfil AMANN GROUP / Global Marketing 2016 / Buz 33

34 Characteristics of raw materials for sewing threads Item Natural fibres Chemical fibres Raw materials Cotton Polyester Polyamide Optical appearance Matt gloss, can be improved by mercerization The optical appearance can be changed by using optical brighteners, dyeing, profiles of fibers, texurizing and making of special types of fibers Tensile strength Elongation Abrasion resistance Dyeing performance ++ o (only high pressure: app. 135 C /app. 4 bar) Colour fastness Light fastness Melting point app. 320 C Heat for selfburning Chemical resistance - OK against acid AMANN GROUP / Global Marketing 2016 / Buz ca. 256 C C OK against soda / hydrooxide

35 The most important sewing thread constructions Cut staple Core spun Continuous filament yarn Continuous filament texturized Construction Optical app. textile, matt, hairy textile, matt, hairy smooth, shiny open, fluffy Breaking strength + ++ Elasticity + + depends +++ Abrasion resistance + ++ AMANN GROUP / Global Marketing 2016 / Buz 35

36 Overview thread construction types -1- CONSTRUCTION DRAWING MAIN CHARACTERISTICS AMANN PRODUCTS Continuous filament very high breaking strength very high abrasion resistance shiny Continuous filament, texturised Core spun very good covering effect used for serging seams lower breaking strength in comparison to continuous filament universal use for sewing clothes not as hairy as spun thread good breaking strength good abrasion resistance Continuous filament, braided for decorative seams for manual sewing very high breaking strength very high abrasion resistance AMANN GROUP / Global Marketing 2013 / Buz 36

37 Products Polyester / polyester core spun AMANN s all-rounder high-performing, high strength, outstanding sewability great in tickets and colours textile look for closing and topstitch seams for matt embroidery AMANN Group

38 Products Polyester continuous filament the outstanding product for shoes and leather for closing and decorative seams subtle, soft sheen high seam strength most reliable sewing performance with perfect stitch formation AMANN Group

39 Produkte Polyester continuous filament ideal sewing and embroidery thread for all fine to extremely fine materials delicate, silk-like, adaptive, semi-transparent for high-quality overedging not showing through for all felling and blindstitching work ideal for processing downs for embroidering monograms and fine stitch patterns AMANN Group

40 Sewing thread for shoe and leather Polyamide 6.6 continuous filament the ultra-strong sewing thread for heavy-duty seams for closing and topstitch seams robust, abrasion resistant, durable Excellent strength properties AMANN Group Global Marketing / Sewing Advisory 40

41 Products The product family of ISA EMBROIDERY THREADS includes: the classical machine embroidery thread ISACORD (Polyester continuous filament, trilobal) for all brilliant and fashionable embroideries the decorative thread ISAMET (Polyester / Polyamid wrapped yarn) for metallic embroidery the phosphorescent thread ISA TEXLIGHT (Polyester Multifilament, texturised) for glow-in-the-dark embroideries the Polyester bobbin threads ISA und ISABOB AMANN Group

42 Sewing thread for shoe and leather Polyamide 6.6 continuous filament, bonded the robust bonded sewing thread for heavy-duty seams best sewing performance, also for multidirectional sewing AMANN Group Global Marketing / Sewing Advisory 42

43 Sewing thread for shoe and leather Polyester continuous filament, braided the braided thread for individual decorative effects for topstitch seams on leather decorative, impressive, effective waxed version available for hand sewing AMANN Group Global Marketing / Sewing Advisory 43

44 PTT filament The solution for flexible seams, especially lockstitch 65% Elongation for the thread alone Optimal seam stability AMANN Group 2017

45 Polyester Microfilament Resistant against yellowing Extremely productive, also at the needle Very skin sensitive AMANN Group Global Marketing / Sewing Advisory 45

46 The sewing process AMANN Group Global Marketing / Sewing Advisory 46

47 Influences to sewing process Besids of the correct choice of the sewing thread also the correct handling / application has a high influence to the final seam quality: All parameters have to fit together! Influences to sewing process AMANN GROUP / Global Marketing 2015 / Buz 47

48 Example: Needles AMANN Group Global Marketing / Sewing Advisory 48

49 Importance of the Needle Sewing Process Stitch Formation The needle penetrates through the leather. The thread is well protected by the long groove of the needle Therefore the needle size hat to fit to the sewing thread thickness The long groove AMANN Group Global Marketing / Sewing Advisory 49

50 The team play of sewing thread and needle Choosing the correct needle size: Needle Nm 100 ( at blade 1 mm) Thread Nm 20/3 (Serafil 20/ app. 0,45 mm) (Source: Groz-Beckert) 0,4 mm The diameter of the needle hole / long groove has app. 40% of the diameter of the needle AMANN GROUP / Global Marketing 2016 / Buz 50

51 The team play of sewing thread and needle The diameter of the sewing thread should not be larger than 40% of the diameter of the needle. Minimum stress for the sewing thread optimal sewing condition Sewing thread too thick Needle too small Thread breakage Sewing thread too thin Needle too big Skipped stitches, damages on the sewing thread, maybe even thread breakages General Rule / Guideline: The lighter the material, the smaller the needle but the needle size has to correspond to the sewing thread diameter! AMANN GROUP / Global Marketing 2016 / Buz 51

52 The team play of sewing thread and needle Needle heating: Thermal damage in the fabric Thermal damage at the sewing thread AMANN GROUP / Global Marketing 2016 / Buz 52

53 Needle Quality Needle Quality Difference in Needle Quality: AMANN Group Global Marketing / Sewing Advisory 53

54 The most famous causes for sewing problems Problem: Damaged Needle thread. Untidy- rough appearance Solution: Polish rough thread guiding parts- avoid sharp edges Replace old and damaged needles AMANN Group Global Marketing / Sewing Advisory 54

55 Needles Cutting Points AMANN Group Global Marketing / Sewing Advisory 55

56 Needles Cloth Points AMANN Group Global Marketing / Sewing Advisory 56

57 Example: Tension setting AMANN Group Global Marketing / Sewing Advisory 57

58 Tension setting in the seam Needle thread What is the correct tension setting in a lock stitch seam? Bobbin thread AMANN GROUP / Global Marketing 2016 / Buz 58

59 The correct tension setting depends on the requirement to the seam: Thread balance in seam: after undoing the seam Seam breaking strength Seam elasticity & stretch ability Optical appearance 1 2 Needle thread and bottom thread have same length Needle thread is clearly longer than bottom thread Needle thread is clearly shorter than bottom thread (Exception: when made on purpose for special effect / appearance! AMANN GROUP / Global Marketing 2016 / Buz 59

60 The importance of water repellant (WR) threads for shoes AMANN GROUP / Global Marketing 2016 / Buz 60

61 Effects of WR-Finish for sewing threads Water penetration after few minutes: sewing thread without WR-finish: water runs through the stitch holes it's been transported through the sewing thread due to the wicking water stain at the seams after approx. 3 minutes with sewing thread without WR-finish seam with sewing thread with WR-finish: no water stain AMANN GROUP / Global Marketing 2016 / Buz 61

62 Thank you very much for your attention!

63 Needle sizes 1,00 mm Needle Size Nm: Diameter of blade in 100/mm NM Size Asia (Singer) NM Size Asia (Singer) AMANN Group Global Marketing / Sewing Advisory 63

64 AMANN Group Global Marketing / Sewing Advisory 64

65 Sewing thread quality Good quality - before stitching Good quality - after stitching (no damage) Poor Quality - Resulting in Excessive Filament damage on poor quality thread after stitching Footnotes Often the damage on poor quality threads occurs during sewing and is not visible in the seam. Filamentation of fibres can reduce seam strength up to 50% resulting in premature seam failure

66 The most famous causes for sewing problems Problem: Damaged Needle thread. Untidy- rough appearance Solution: Polish rough thread guiding parts- avoid sharp edges Replace old and damaged needles AMANN Group Global Marketing / Sewing Advisory 66