SAN FELIPE: Step by Step Pack 2

Transcription

1 Pack 2 Your parts Stern reinforcement Bulkheads The poop deck Bulkhead planks Planks Tools and equipment Knife Pencil Wood glue Sandpaper File a Using leftover 5 x 5-mm wooden strips, measure and cut beams for Frames 12 and 13. b A To identify the bulkheads, mark them with letters A, B and C before removing them. C B 49

2 c Cut the planks into short lengths and glue them onto the bulkheads. d Cut off the overlapping bulkhead planking and mark the joints with a pencil. e A Test-fit bulkhead A below the forecastle deck, aligning it with the outer edge of Frame 4. Trim with a file if necessary to ease the fit, then glue into place. 50

3 f Glue bulkhead B into place under the stern deck, resting up against the bow side of Frame 9. B g Glue bulkhead C up against Frame 12, making sure that the top of the bulkhead doesn t extend above the beam. C h Apply glue to the stern reinforcement and place it in the slots of Frame 14, as shown in the photo. 51

4 i Prepare the planks as before and glue them onto the poop deck. When dry, cut off any planking that extends past the edge of the deck. Then mark points to imitate the nails. j Once complete, glue the poop deck in place, resting on top of Frames k The photo shows how the assembly should look at this stage. Keep any leftover material, as it will be used later. 52

5 Your parts False keel reinforcement x 2 Taffrail x 3 2 wooden strips 2 x 4 mm, 300 mm long Tools and equipment Knife Pencil Wood glue Sandpaper a Glue the two false keel reinforcements in place, in between Frames 13 and 14, as shown, on either side of the keel. b Cut a length of the wooden strip to fit the position shown in the photo. Glue it into place. 53

6 c Cut two lengths of the strip to fit the position shown in the photo. Glue them into place. d Once the lengths from the previous step are dry, file or sand smooth the points highlighted in the photo. e Cut two more lengths of the strip and glue them to the points highlighted in the previous step, as shown in the photo. 54

7 f Check that the strips are flush with the planks of the forecastle deck, and file if necessary. g Now, using Steps b-f as a guide, cut and glue lengths of the wooden strip to fit the poop deck as shown. h Assemble the taffrail, as shown in the photo. 55

8 i Once the taffrail assembly has dried, use remaining planks to cover the assembly, as shown. When dry, cut off any planks extending past the wood, ensuring that the two projections highlighted aren t covered, and mark the imitation nails. Mark points aft on the planks of the taffrail. j Once completed, glue the taffrail in place on the poop deck. k The photo shows how the assembly should look at this stage. Keep any leftover material, as it will be used later. 56

9 Your parts Bowsprit deck reinforcements x 6 Bow and stern reinforcements x 4 Tools and equipment Knife Pencil Wood glue Sandpaper Scissors a Glue the six bow reinforcements in place under the bowsprit deck, three on each side of the keel. b Glue the two bow frame reinforcements in place on Frame 2, under the main deck, one on each side. 57

10 c Glue the stern reinforcements on the back of Frame 13, lining up the grooves, one on either side of the keel. d Cover the bowsprit deck using any spare planks. e Once the planks are dry, cut off the parts that extend past the edge of the bowsprit deck. 58

11 f Smooth any rough edges off the planks. g Mark the edges of the planks, as shown. There is no need to simulate the nails. h Using a knife, remove the strip of plank that covers the notch in the bowsprit deck, as shown in the photo. 59

12 i Cut a piece of wooden strip to fit on the front of the deck of the taffrail. Glue it in place, resting 2 mm over the front edge. j Sand the ends of the strip until it is aligned with the edge of the taffrail. k The photo shows how the assembly should look at this stage. Keep any leftover material, as it will be used later. 60

13 Pin pusher Nails Your parts Tools and equipment Knife Pencil Wood glue File Sandpaper Sanding blocks (short and long) Half-round files (short and long) a Cut two lengths of wooden strip to fit the recesses in the quarter deck that are highlighted in the photo. Glue into place. b Cut and glue another two lengths to fit the highlighted points. 61

14 c File the edges highlighted in the photograph, then cut another two lengths of the wooden strip and glue into place, as shown. d Once the wooden strips from the last step are dry, file along the outer edges so that the strips and the deck are flush. e When using the pin pusher, always make sure that you insert the nail head first. 62

15 f To test the pin pusher, load it with a nail, place the point against the center of one of the frames and push forward. g The more you push, the more the nail enters. Remove the nail afterward, so that it does not obstruct any future work. h These are the tools you will need when shaping the hull frames: Sanding blocks (short and long) Half-round files (short and long) 63

16 i Begin shaping the hull frames, above the ledges on Frames 1-4, so that they are in line with the forecastle. j Also shape the edges of Frames 1-4, so that they curve smoothly around to the bowsprit deck. k The photo shows how the assembly should look at this stage. Keep any leftover material, as it will be used later. 64

17 Your parts Gun port covers x 10 Bow side wall 2 wooden strips, 2 x 4 x 300 mm Tools and equipment Knife Wood glue Sandpaper File Brush Wood stain Pin pusher/nails a Cut two pieces of the wooden strip to fit the areas highlighted in the photo, and glue into place. b Sand the ends of the wooden strips so they are in line with the edge of the decking. 65

18 c Cut another piece of the strip to cover the front edge of the deck. Glue into place. d Using a file or sandpaper, sand the wooden strips so that they are the same height as the planks. Then sand the edges and the corners smooth. e Before proceeding, use fine sandpaper to smooth all the edges and surfaces lightly. 66

19 f Glue one of the square wooden gun port covers over the first hole of the side wall, 5 mm from the bottom, as shown. 5 mm g Stain the inside of the side wall. h Test-fit the side wall up against the hull. If you have trouble fitting it up against these frames, sand or file the slots slightly until it fits. 67

20 i Apply glue to the areas of contact and start nailing the ship s side to the hull. Begin at the bow and continue toward the stern. j At the end of the side, where it doesn t cover the deck, nail it only to the frame. k The photo shows how the assembly should look at this stage. Keep any leftover material, as it will be used later. 68

21 5 mm SAN FELIPE: Step by Step Transom Bow side wall Your parts Tools and equipment Knife Wood glue Sandpaper File Brush Wood stain Pin pusher/nails a Glue one of the square wooden gun port covers over the first hole of the side wall, 5 mm from the bottom, as shown. b Stain the inside of the side wall. 69

22 c Test-fit the side wall up against the hull. If you have trouble fitting it up against these frames, sand or file the slots slightly until it fits. d Apply glue to the areas of contact and start nailing the side wall to the hull. Begin at the bow and continue toward the stern. e At the narrowest point of the side wall, nail along the bottom edge to join it with the main deck. 70

23 f The aft end of the port side wall should finish at the same height as the starboard wall. g Cut a piece of plank to fit in the gap between the circular projections at the bow, and glue it into place. h Once the glue is dry, file or sand off the overhanging plank until it is flush with the bow bulkhead, Frame 1. 71

24 i Smooth the edges of the side walls until they are flush with Frame 1. j Check that the front edges of the side walls are in line with the front edge of Frame 1. k The photo shows how the assembly should look at this stage. Keep any leftover material, as it will be used later. 72

25 Your parts Stern side wall Cannon sets (cannon, carriage) x 2 Tools and equipment Wood glue File Brushes Wood stain Pin pusher/nails Superglue Red and black paint a Use a file to smooth the edges of the starboard side of the hull behind the bow side wall, starting at the stern and moving forward on the highlighted lines. b Test-fit the stern side wall in place. If you are having trouble fitting the wall, sand the slots until it fits. 73

26 c 1 mm 1 mm Glue three gun port covers onto the points highlighted in the photo, with a minimum of a 1-mm border around the holes they cover. Make sure the upper ones do not block the slots. d Glue the other three squares on the holes highlighted again, with at least a 1-mm border around the hole. 1 mm e Stain the side of the wall with the squares fitted on it. 74

27 f Apply glue to all contact areas and nail the wall into place before the glue dries. g Apply a small amount of superglue to the carriage on the three points highlighted in the photo. h Carefully place the barrel onto the glue spots. Leave the gun to dry before moving it. 75

28 i Paint the cascable red, as shown. j To add a sense of depth to the cannon, paint the inside of the bore black, quickly removing any excess paint from the muzzle. Repeat steps g-j for the second cannon set. k The photo shows how the assembly should look at this stage. Keep any leftover material, as it will be used later. 76

29 Your parts Stern side wall Cannon set (cannon, carriage) Gun hatches x 20 Tools and equipment Wood glue File Brushes Wood stain Hammer Pin pusher/nails Superglue Red and black paint a Use a file to smooth the edges of the starboard side of the hull behind the bow side wall, starting at the stern and moving forward on the highlighted lines. b Test-fit the stern side wall in place. If you are having trouble fitting the wall, sand the slots until it fits. 77

30 c 1 mm 1 mm Glue three square wooden gun port covers onto the points highlighted in the photo, with at least a 1-mm border around the holes they cover. Be sure not to block the slots. d Glue the other three squares on the holes highlighted, again, with at least a 1-mm border around the hole. 1 mm e Stain the inside of the wall. 78

31 f Apply glue to all contact areas, and while it s drying, nail the wall into place. g Once you have all the nails in place, gently tap them down with a hammer so their heads sink into the wood, making the outer surface level. h Apply a small amount of superglue to the three points where the gun barrel contacts the carriage. Carefully place the cannon onto the glue spots and leave to dry before moving. 79

32 i Paint the cascable red as shown. j To add a sense of depth to the cannon, paint the inside of the bore black, quickly removing any excess paint from the muzzle. k The photo shows how the assembly should look at this stage. Keep any leftover material, as it will be used later. 80

33 Your parts Planks 3 x 5 mm Gratings Wooden strip 2 x 7 mm Tools and equipment Wood glue Sandpaper File a Starting from the bow and below the lower deck, fair the edges of the frames by filing them until they form a continuous curve that will allow you to attach the planking easily. Be careful not to eliminate the small grooves halfway up the curve of the frames, which will serve as a guide for placing the planks. b Test-fit one of the planks in the small grooves in the frames to check that the curve is correct and that the plank fits inside the grooves. 81

34 c Now file the frames above the lower deck. Again start fairing from the bow, trying to create a continuous curve and aligning the frames with the side walls. d This photo shows the result of the filing, with the arrows giving a general idea of the shape you should achieve. e Continue the fairing process along the hull. Sand the frames so that they are all in line and be sure not to delete the grooves in the sides of the frames. 82

35 f File the stern below the lower deck into a curve, as with the bow. g Now file the frames above the lower deck, until the frames are in line with the side wall. h The arrow should give you an idea of the kind of shape you should have on the frames at the stern. 83

36 i Using the photo as a guide, assemble the gratings, interlocking the slots as shown. j Apply adhesive to all the joints so that the grating becomes one solid piece. k The photo shows how the assembly should look at this stage. Keep any leftover material, as it will be used later. 84

37 Bulwarks Gun hatches Your parts Tools and equipment Knife Ruler Wood glue Sandpaper File Pin pusher/nails Razor saw a Soak a plank in hot water to soften it and make it more pliable. Then position it in the groove along the frames and bend it to fit around the bow. b 5 mm 2.5 mm Cut a section from the rearward end of the plank, as indicated in the photo. Cut the end of another plank in the same way, so that the two will interlock as shown in Step f on page

38 c Glue the shaped end of the plank into the groove on Frame 6. d Once the shaped end has dried in place, glue the plank to the frames, going along toward the bow. Apply glue to the joints before nailing the plank to the frames. e Cut away the end of the plank, so that it stops at the edge of the false keel, leaving it visible. 5 mm 86

39 f Test-fit and glue the second plank shaped in Step b into the same groove as the first on Frame 6. g Cut this plank so that it fits between Frames 6-9 and its end is shaped the same way as in Step b. Then glue it to each of the frames and nail into place. h Shape the end of another plank as in Step b to fit into the grooves from Frame 9 to the stern. Glue and nail it into place. 87

40 i Cut the plank flush with the stern. Repeat Steps a-h and fit a plank on the port side of the hull. j Make sure there is a gap of 5 mm between the planks at the bow, so that the false keel remains visible. 5 mm k The photo shows how the assembly should look at this stage. Keep any leftover material, as it will be used later. 88

41 Bulwarks Gun hatches Your parts Tools and equipment Knife Wood glue Sandpaper File Pin pusher/nails a Separate the smaller bulwark. Smooth the edges and then test-fit it against the hull, slightly overlapping the side wall and lining it up with the edge of Frame 8. b Apply the glue to the contact areas and nail the bulwark into place, starting from Frame 8 and proceeding toward the stern. 89

42 c When you reach the end of the bulwark, use this photo as reference for where it should be positioned. d Take the longer bulwark and testfit it along the side of the hull as shown, slightly overlapping the side wall and covering the points on the frames highlighted by the arrows e Apply glue to the contact zones and begin to nail the bulwark in place. Start from the join and proceed toward the bow. 90

43 f Nail the end of the bulwark into Frame 1 to finish. Fit the port side bulwarks into place using the same method as in Steps a-f. g Temporarily attach one of the gun port covers to the end of a spare length of wood using a blob of bluetack. This will help you when placing the gun port covers on the inside of the bulwarks. To remove the length of wood, gently twist it away from the cover. h Spread glue on the inside surfaces of the bulwarks around each of the gun ports. Then, using the method demonstrated in the previous step, glue the gun port covers in place as highlighted in the photo. 91

44 i File the bow ends of the bulwarks and side walls as shown, so that they are flush with Frame 1. j File the bulwarks so that they are flush with Frame 14. k The photo shows how the assembly should look at this stage. Keep any leftover material, as it will be used later. 92

45 Your parts Ladder sides Wooden strip 1 x 4 x 100 mm Wooden strip 2 x 7 x 300 mm Cannon set Nails Tools and equipment Wood glue Sandpaper File Brushes Wood stain Tweezers Black and red paint a Sand the area of the stern castle along the extending decks and the side walls. Avoid the projection in the center. b Smooth the transom with sandpaper and then stain it the same color as the bulwarks. 93

46 c Glue the transom to the rear of the hull, onto the points highlighted in Step a. Make sure that it is centered between the two side walls and that the slots line up on both sides. If necessary, adjust these slots. d 4 mm Cut the 2 x 7-mm strip into four lengths to fit on the inside edges of the hatch, as shown. When gluing them into place, ensure that the strip extends 4 mm above the deck. e 4 mm As in the previous step, cut four lengths from the 2 x 7-mm wooden strip to fit on the inside edges of this hatch, again gluing them in place and leaving 4 mm showing above the deck. 94

47 f Cut the 1 x 4-mm wooden strips into 12-mm lengths. 12 mm g Take one of the ladder sides and glue two of the 12-mm lengths of 1 x 4-mm strip from the last step into the grooves at each end. h Glue another ladder side to the other ends of the 12-mm lengths, as shown. 95

48 i Glue the rest of the 12-mm strips into place in the grooves of the ladder sides. Then follow Steps g-i again to create a second ladder. j Assemble the cannon set and paint, as with previous cannon sets. k The photo shows how the assembly should look at this stage. Keep any leftover material, as it will be used later. 96