BUILDING A STORM DOOR

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Ronald Lyons
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BUILDING A STORM DOOR BY NEAL BARRETT Illustrations by George Retseck If you're in the market for a storm door, you probably know that there are many styles and models available.

1 BUILDING A STORM DOOR BY NEAL BARRETT Illustrations by George Retseck If you're in the market for a storm door, you probably know that there are many styles and models available. However, most of them are aluminum so if your heart is set on a traditional wooden storm door, the selection is severely limited. With this dilemma in mind, we designed a traditional door with interchangeable screen and glass inserts. Our door can be built with portable tools and anyone with basic skills can achieve a quality result. Our straightforward design utilizes special locks to hold the inserts within the main door frame. The hardware is called "combo insert locking hardware with protector plate" and is available from Morse Sash & Door Co., 40 Jarley Rd., Rochester, NY You'll need four complete locks and four additional protector plates for the second insert frame. The storm door frame and insert frames are made of 5/4 lumber, which is 1 1/8 in. thick. The door panels are made of 3/4-in.-thick stock. If you desire a painted door, select pine is a good choice because its high resin content makes it more rot resistant than other paint-grade woods. You also can use hardwood and apply a clear, weather-resistant finish. When shopping for door lumber, make sure that the material is straight, flat and relatively free of serious defects such as knots and insect holes. If possible, have your dealer joint one edge of each piece so you have a true edge to work from. If you start your project with warped or twisted lumber, your finished door will not be flat. The door that we constructed is designed to fit a 36 x 80-in. opening. If you want a door of different dimensions, make a scaled drawing that incorporates your changes. Door stiles, and top and middle rails should be no less than 4 in. wide and the bottom rail should be at least 9 in. wide. (1 of 7)1/10/ :56:40 PM

The Main Frame Begin by using a circular saw and edge guide to rip the frame parts to width. Be sure that the edge guide runs against the straightest edge of each piece.

Use a marking gauge and square to lay out the tenons on the door rails (Fig. 2). Note that on the bottom rail there are two separate tenons on each end.

Use a board clamped across the stock to guide a circular saw. Clamp a rail upright in a vise and use a backsaw to make the tenon cheek cuts.

Then make the face shoulder cuts to remove the waste from the tenon (Fig. 3). Lay out the small shoulders at the top and bottom edges of the joint and make the required cuts (Fig. 4).

Lay out the space between the double tenons on the bottom rail ends and use the backsaw to make the long-grain cuts between the tenons. Chop out the waste using a sharp chisel (Fig. 6).

2 The Main Frame Begin by using a circular saw and edge guide to rip the frame parts to width. Be sure that the edge guide runs against the straightest edge of each piece. Use a circular saw to crosscut the stock to finished length. To guarantee square crosscuts, clamp a guide block squarely across the stock and run the base of the saw against it (Fig. 1). Use a marking gauge and square to lay out the tenons on the door rails (Fig. 2). Note that on the bottom rail there are two separate tenons on each end. If single tenons were used, seasonal movement of the wide stock could either crack the rail or loosen the joint. 1 After ripping stock to width, crosscut squarely to length. Use a board clamped across the stock to guide a circular saw. Clamp a rail upright in a vise and use a backsaw to make the tenon cheek cuts. Keep the saw blade on the waste side of the line and let the weight of the tool guide the progress of the cut. Stop the cut just shy of the tenon shoulder layout line. Then make the face shoulder cuts to remove the waste from the tenon (Fig. 3). Lay out the small shoulders at the top and bottom edges of the joint and make the required cuts (Fig. 4). Use a block or rabbet plane and chisel to smooth the tenon cheeks (Fig. 5) and bring them to finished dimension. Lay out the space between the double tenons on the bottom rail ends and use the backsaw to make the long-grain cuts between the tenons. Chop out the waste using a sharp chisel (Fig. 6). Alternate vertical and horizontal cuts working from both faces of the joint. 2 Use a marking gauge to lay out tenons on the rail ends. Carry lines around all faces to provide a clear guide for the cuts. 3 After cutting tenon cheeks by sawing in from the rail ends, cut squarely across both faces of each rail to remove waste. 4 Finish each tenon by marking and cutting 1/2-in. shoulders on each edge. Use a chisel to trim shoulders flush. (2 of 7)1/10/ :56:40 PM

5 If necessary, trim the thickness of each tenon to exact dimension with a rabbet plane or block plane and chisel.

Mark the location of the mortises on the door stiles and also on the middle and bottom rails. The most efficient way to form these mortises is to bore a series of slightly overlapping 3/8-in.- dia.

To bore aligned holes, use a doweling jig to guide the drill bit or mount your drill in a drill stand that converts your tool into a small drill press. A good choice is the Craftsman No.

If it's too loose, glue a veneer shim to the tenon to correct the fit. Dry assemble the door frame and clamp the parts together.

3 5 If necessary, trim the thickness of each tenon to exact dimension with a rabbet plane or block plane and chisel. 6 At bottom rail, remove waste between tenons with two saw cuts along the grain followed by chisel cuts from each face. Mark the location of the mortises on the door stiles and also on the middle and bottom rails. The most efficient way to form these mortises is to bore a series of slightly overlapping 3/8-in.- dia. holes to remove most of the waste (Fig. 7). Then finish the joint with a sharp chisel (Fig. 8). To bore aligned holes, use a doweling jig to guide the drill bit or mount your drill in a drill stand that converts your tool into a small drill press. A good choice is the Craftsman No drill stand (about $35) available from Sears. Test fit each mortise-and-tenon joint. If the joint is too tight, sand or plane the tenon. If it's too loose, glue a veneer shim to the tenon to correct the fit. Dry assemble the door frame and clamp the parts together. Place the frame on a set of sawhorses so you can rout the grooves to accept the solid wood panels. Place a 1/4-in. slotting bit (with ball bearing pilot) in the router. Adjust the depth of cut so you will achieve a centered 3/8-in.-wide groove after a pass is made from each face of the frame. Test the setup on scrap lumber until the adjustments are just right. Make a pass with the router around each panel opening (Fig. 9), moving clockwise. Turn the frame over and make a second pass around each opening to complete the grooves. Disassemble the frame and use a sharp chisel to square the rounded ends of the grooves (Fig. 10). To make each wide bottom panel, glue together two or three pieces of narrower 3/4-in.-thick stock. Use a water-resistant glue (such as Titebond II) on the edge joints and build the panel blanks slightly larger than finished dimension. After the glue is dry, trim each panel square and to exact size. 7 Bore slightly overlapping 3/8-in. holes to remove most of the waste from mortises. A drill stand holds the drill for accurate holes. 8 Clamp the work to the bench and use a sharp chisel to finish the mortises. Check each mortise for a snug fit with tenon. Use your router with a straight bit and edge guide to cut a rabbet around all edges on both sides of the panel to form a tongue 3/8 in. thick by 9/16 in. wide (Fig. 11). Begin assembly of the frame by joining the center vertical member to the bottom and middle rails with water-resistant glue. Spread the glue on the tenons and in the mortises of the rails. Join the parts and apply a clamp to pull the joints tight. Check that the assembly is square by comparing opposite diagonal measurements, then let the glue set for at least 1 hour before proceeding with the assembly. 9 Temporarily assemble the door frame. Rout 3/8-in. panel grooves by working from each face of the door with a slotting bit. While the glue sets, mark the location of the recess for each piece of locking insert hardware on the door stiles. Use a Forstner or multispur bit to bore each recess (Fig. 12). It's (3 of 7)1/10/ :56:40 PM

helpful to use a drill guide or drill stand to position these holes.

Apply glue to all rail tenons and stile mortises, then assemble the door.

thoroughly. Drill pilot holes for the screws, then install the locking hardware (Fig. 14).

10 Disassemble the door frame and use a sharp chisel to square the rounded ends of the routed panel grooves.

-deep rabbets from each face. 12 Use a Forstner or multispur bit to bore the four 1/4-in.-deep x 1 7/16-in.

4 helpful to use a drill guide or drill stand to position these holes. Slide the panels into position in the rail subassembly (Fig. 13). Apply glue to all rail tenons and stile mortises, then assemble the door. Use clamps to pull the joints tight, then check that the door is square before letting the glue set thoroughly. Drill pilot holes for the screws, then install the locking hardware (Fig. 14). Do not overtighten the screws or the locks will be too hard to operate. 10 Disassemble the door frame and use a sharp chisel to square the rounded ends of the routed panel grooves. 11 Cut the door panels to exact size and use a router to form a 3/8-in. tongue by cutting 9/16-in.-deep rabbets from each face. 12 Use a Forstner or multispur bit to bore the four 1/4-in.-deep x 1 7/16-in.-dia. recesses for insert-frame locking hardware. 13 With the bottom subassembly glued together, slide the panels in place. Then assemble the remaining stiles and rail. (4 of 7)1/10/ :56:40 PM

14 After boring pilot holes for the locking hardware screws, install each lock in its recess. Don't overtighten the screws. The Insert Frames Cut parts to size for the interchangeable insert frames.

Cut the mortises by making two parallel cuts into the end grain of the stiles, then use a chisel to chop out the waste (Fig. 15).

The inside edges of the screen frame are square because the screen can be stapled to the face of the frame, but the glass frame requires a rabbet to accept the glass.

15 To make open mortises in insert frames, first cut from the end with a backsaw. Then chop from edge and end to remove waste.

5 14 After boring pilot holes for the locking hardware screws, install each lock in its recess. Don't overtighten the screws. The Insert Frames Cut parts to size for the interchangeable insert frames. The corner joints are open mortise and tenons. Cut the tenons as described for the main frame. Note that the tenons on the glass frame rails have unequal shoulders to allow for the glass rabbet. Cut the mortises by making two parallel cuts into the end grain of the stiles, then use a chisel to chop out the waste (Fig. 15). Work halfway through the stile, then turn the stock over and finish the mortise from the other edge. The inside edges of the screen frame are square because the screen can be stapled to the face of the frame, but the glass frame requires a rabbet to accept the glass. Use the router with a straight bit and edge guide to cut the rabbet in both rails and stiles (Fig. 16). Since the rabbet is quite deep, it is best to make the cut in two or three stages. 15 To make open mortises in insert frames, first cut from the end with a backsaw. Then chop from edge and end to remove waste. Test the fit of the insert frame joints and make any adjustments required. Apply glue to the joints, assemble and clamp. When the glue has fully cured, use the router, straight bit and edge guide to cut the rabbets around the outer frame edges. Mark the location of the protector-plate mortises in the frame edges. Use a doweling jig to guide the drill in boring 1/4-in.-dia. holes to remove most of the waste (Fig. 17). Then finish with a sharp chisel. Place a protector plate into each mortise (Fig. 18) and tap it into place with a hammer to engage the pronged ends in the wood. 16 Use a router with straight bit and edge guide to cut the rabbet for the glass. Make 3/8- in.-deep cuts in several stages. 17 Use a doweling jig to guide the drill when making the mortises in the inserts for the locking hardware. Trim mortises with chisel. 18 Insert a protector plate into each insert mortise. Tap it in place with a hammer to force the prongs into the wood. (5 of 7)1/10/ :56:40 PM

Purchase a piece of screen for the insert that is slightly bigger than the frame. Place the screen frame outside face up on a worktable and lay the screen over it.

Finish stapling across the top and bottom rails. Use a straightedge and utility knife to trim the excess screen so that it extends over the frame by about 5/8 in. (Fig. 19).

brads to fasten the molding in place. Since the glass panel is quite large, use 1/4-in.-thick laminated safety glass for the insert. Order the glass about 1/8 in.

The stops that hold the glass in the frame have a cross section of 1/2 x 1/2 in. To make these pieces, first use the router to cut a 1/4-in.-deep x 1/2-in.

6 Purchase a piece of screen for the insert that is slightly bigger than the frame. Place the screen frame outside face up on a worktable and lay the screen over it. Staple one long edge of the screen to the frame, using 3/8-in.-long staples every 3 in. to 4 in. Pull the screen tight across the frame and staple it on the opposite stile. Finish stapling across the top and bottom rails. Use a straightedge and utility knife to trim the excess screen so that it extends over the frame by about 5/8 in. (Fig. 19). Use the rip guide on the circular saw to cut 1/4 x 3/4-in. strips for screen molding. Install these over the edges of the screen and flush to the inside edges of the frame (Fig. 20). Use 3/4-in. brads to fasten the molding in place. Since the glass panel is quite large, use 1/4-in.-thick laminated safety glass for the insert. Order the glass about 1/8 in. smaller in each dimension than the opening in the frame. 19 After stapling a piece of oversize screen to the insert frame, use a straightedge and utility knife to trim the screen to size. The stops that hold the glass in the frame have a cross section of 1/2 x 1/2 in. To make these pieces, first use the router to cut a 1/4-in.-deep x 1/2-in.-wide rabbet down the length of a piece of 3/4-in. stock. Then, use the circular saw to rip the 1/2 x 1/2- in. strip off the edge of the board. Repeat the process for each piece of molding. Run a bead of clear silicone around the frame rabbet (Fig. 21). Carefully lower the glass panel into the frame, then run another bead of silicone around the edges of the glass. Position the glass stops around the frame (Fig. 22) and fasten them with brads or screws. 20 Rip 1/4 x 3/4-in. molding strips and nail these over screen edges. Align strips with inside edge of frame and secure with brads. Hang the door in its opening using three good quality butt hinges. Allow a margin of 3/16 in. around all edges of the door. Mount a knob and latch to the door and install a piston closer. If your location is windy, use two piston closersâ one at the top and one at the middle rail. To finish the door, remove all hardware and sand the door and frames with 120-grit sandpaper. Dust off the parts completely. If the door is to be painted, apply a good quality exterior primer and a minimum of two coats of paint following the manufacturer's directions for proper drying between coats. If you want a clear finish, use a spar varnish such as McCloskey's Man O' War Varnish. Follow the manufacturer's directions for application of the finish. 21 Place a small bead of silicone around the rabbet that holds the glass panel. Carefully place the glass in the frame. 22 Add a bead of silicone around the glass panel and cut 1/2-in.-sq. strips to fit over glass. Secure strips with brads or screws. (6 of 7)1/10/ :56:40 PM

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Traditional glass-pane and wood-muntin doors highlight this free-standing piece.

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