Contents. pages 20-24: Installing Edge sinks into. custom laminate countertops page 8: Installing Edge sinks into postform laminate countertops

Transcription

1 Contents pages 2-8: Installing Edge sinks into custom laminate countertops page 8: Installing Edge sinks into postform laminate countertops pages 9-14: Installing Acrylic sinks into custom laminate countertops pages 15-19: Installing Acrylic sinks into postform laminate countertops pages 20-24: Installing Edge sinks into solid surface countertops page 24: Installing Acrylic sinks into solid surface countertops

2 >> Help. When and where you need it. This installation guide outlines effective techniques and methods for installing Karran Edge and Acrylic sinks seamslessly in both laminate and solid surface. Please go to to view videos of these installation procedures outlined here. SECTION 1: Installing EDGE SINKS into custom laminate countertops STEP 1 After removing the sink from its box, inspect it for damage. Check the integrity of the rim as well as the bowls for any signs of shipping damage. If sink is damaged, call your distributor or Karran USA immediately. STEP 2 Measure and mark the back side of the countertop indicating where the sink needs to be installed. A set back from the front edge of 2" to 2-1/2" is recommended but always take into consideration the specific circumstances of each installation relating to cabinet and plumbing placement. STEP 3 Place the sink upside down on the substrate in the marked position, then use a pencil to trace the outline of the sink onto the substrate. Hold your pencil vertically as this will offset your cutout line by the required 1/8". 2

3 STEP 4 Using a jig saw make the cutout. When doing more than one sink of the same design, save time by making a wood template and using a router. Remember to adjust the size of the template by the thickness of the router bit to be used. STEP 5 Flip the countertop over (top side up). Place the laminate that has been cut to size (oversized by your shops standard amount) over the substrate. Trace the sink cutout in the substrate onto the back of the laminate. STEP 6 Flip the countertop over. Place sink in cutout to check for fit. Approximately 1/8" gap should be visible. Either screw or glue & staple wood support strips to the underside of the opening. Make sure they overlap the edge of the cutout by about 1/2". STEP 7 Flip the countertop and sink over. The sink rim must sit minimally higher than the top of the substrate. We recommend no more than 1/32". Adjust height as needed using either strips of laminate or screws. Regarding screws, simply position several screws around circumference of sink, screwed through the wood support strips until they touch the underside of rim. Then adjust screws to raise or lower rim height. Remember to make sure the sink remains centered in the hole. 3

4 STEP 8 Mix up Bondo or similar body filler product. Smear Bondo into the gap around the sink. Fill the gap between sink rim and substrate completely. Leave to harden for about 10 minutes. STEP 9 Once hard, use a belt sander with a coarse grit sandpaper to sand the rim of the sink and the Bondo. Make sure to keep the sander level so as not to sand the substrate or sink rim unevenly. Marking pencil lines on the rim and substrate is a useful guide to show high spots. Sand until lines have been removed. STEP 10 Check for level (low or high spots) after sanding is complete. Make sure inside stainless steel wall of sink is not raised. Ensuring a flat and level substrate and sink is important for a quality installation. STEP 11 Place your sink cutout over the marked area on the back of laminate. This is done to protect this area of the laminate where the sink rim will bond from contact adhesive. Spray back of laminate with contact adhesive. 4

5 Lay the sink cutout over the sink and spray contact adhesive over the substrate. STEP 13 Clean the rim of the sink with denatured alcohol and a clean rag. Also clean the back of the laminate where the sink will attach with denatured alcohol. STEP 14 Prepare Karran Seaming Adhesive. Remember to purge tube to ensure adhesive is mixing with catalyst. Apply a continuous bead about 1/8" back from the inner front edge of the sink. Bead should be between 1/4" and 3/8" wide. Be cautious not to exceed recommended amount. Using Karran Seaming Adhesive ensures the seam bond is warranted for 3 years from date of install. Adhere laminate to the substrate. STEP 15 STEP 12 5

6 Roll laminate with a j-roller. Roll gently on rim of sink. STEP 17 STEP 16 Place one or two sheets of particleboard over the sink area to provide even pressure while seam adhesive cures for approximately 30 minutes. The countertop should not be moved while adhesive is curing. STEP 18 Use a router with a straight trim bit with oversized nylon bearing to remove laminate from the interior of the bowl. This is a commonly used bit to rough cut out acrylic sinks in solid surface. When doing postform tops where the integrated backsplash prevents the use of a standard router, use a smaller laminate trim router. For recommended bits, call Karran USA. STEP 19 Trimming of the laminate back to the bowl wall should be done with a 10 bevel bit with an oversized bearing (bearing 1/8" oversized). Both Amana and Velepec stock Edge sink bowl bits. Start with the router bit set high in the router (bearing running just below laminate). Make a pass then adjust bit slightly lower and make another pass around perimeter of bowl. Repeat this process until the router bit is cutting as close to the bowl wall as possible without touching it. 6

7 STEP 20 Removing the last remaining overhang of laminate and seaming adhesive may be accomplished by hand filing. Use an assortment of files included flat and round files to hand file the edge of the laminate until it is flush with the bowl wall. STEP 21 Final touch up of laminate edge if needed can be accomplished with a fine grit sandpaper. This also assists in removing scuffs and scratches that may have occurred during the filing stage. Remember when using abrasives on the sink to always sand with the grain lines, never against the grain lines. When removing deeper scratches, always start with a coarser grit sandpaper then move to a finer grit sandpaper. STEP 22 A non-woven flap wheel (available from Karran) works well for final buffing and finishing. Keep the flap wheel level as you go around the perimeter of the sink. Do not move up and down. Polishing paste (available from Karran) along with a maroon Scotch-Brite pad polishes and finishes sink wall if needed. STEP 23 7

8 After drilling 1-1/2" holes for faucets, place a bead of silicone around wall of FHSR and slide into faucet hole. This will STEP 24 ensure your particleboard is completely sealed from possible water penetration. >> SECTION 2: Installing EDGE SINKS into postform laminate countertops Installing Edge sinks into postform laminate countertops is easy. Using this guide follow the steps for installing our Acrylic sinks into postform laminate countertops shown on pages 15-18, steps When you are ready to trim the laminate around the bowl wall perimeter, go to page 6 and follow steps Please note when applying solid surface seaming adhesive during Edge sink installations in postform countertops, always use a dark brown adhesive. Some tooling available from Karran that will make your installations quick and easy. Brown seam adhesive Course flap wheel Medium flap wheel Polishing paste Adhesive gun 10 Bevel router bit with oversized bearing 8

9 >>> SECTION 3: Installing ACRYLIC SINKS into custom laminate countertops STEP 1 After removing the sink from its box, inspect it for damage. Check both the rim and the corners of the bowls for any signs of shipping damage. STEP 2 Measure and mark the countertop indicating where the sink needs to be installed. A set back from the front edge of 2" to 2-1/2" is recommended but always take into account the specific circumstances of each installation relating to cabinet and plumbing placement. STEP 3 Place the sink upside down on the substrate in the marked position, then using a pencil, trace the outline of the sink onto the substrate. Hold your pencil vertically. This will offset your cutout line by approximately 1/8". 9

10 STEP 4 Using a jig saw, make the cutout. When doing more than one sink of the same model, save time by making a wood template and using a router. Remember to adjust the size of the template by the thickness of the router bit to be used. If you have a CNC machine, go to to download DXF files. STEP 5 Flip countertop over then screw in or glue and staple wood strips as supports to the underside of the opening. Make sure that they overlap the edge of the cutout by about 1/2". STEP 6 Flip countertop over and place the sink into the opening. The sink must sit higher than the top of the substrate by about 1/32". Adjust height as needed using strips of laminate or screws. STEP 7 Mix up Bondo or similar product. Center the sink in the opening then smear the Bondo into the gap around the sink. Fill the gap between the sink rim and the substrate completely. Leave to harden for about 10 minutes. While applying Bondo, make sure sink remains centered in cutout. 10

11 STEP 8 Once hard, use a belt sander with a coarse grit sandpaper to sand the rim of the sink and the Bondo. Keep the belt sander level so as not to sand substrate or sink rim unevenly. STEP 9 Mark pencil lines on the substrate and sink rim, then continue sanding until all lines have been removed. Sink rim, Bondo and substrate should now be completely smooth and level. Blow with compressed air to clean. STEP 10 Place laminate that has been cut to size (oversized by your shops standard amount) over the countertop. Place hand through waste holes and trace the 4 corners of the sink onto the back of the laminate. Note: This may also be done directly after cutout has been made, prior to fastening undermount support strips. STEP 11 Align the sink cutout over these 4 traced corners on the back side of the laminate. This is done to protect this area of the laminate where the sink rim bonds to the laminate from contact adhesive. Spray back of laminate with contact adhesive. 11

12 Lay sink cutout over the sink and spray contact adhesive over substrate. STEP 13 STEP 12 While contact adhesive dries, place masking tape around the bowl wall, about 1/8" below rim. This will help during the final trimming stage to remove drips of seaming adhesive more easily. STEP 14 Clean the sink rim with denatured alcohol and a clean cloth. Also clean the back of the laminate where sink rim will attach. STEP 15 Prepare Karran Seaming Adhesive. Remember to purge tube to ensure adhesive is mixing with catalyst. Apply a continuous bead about 1/8" back from the inner front edge of the sink. Bead should be between 1/4" and 3/8" wide. Be cautious not to exceed recommended amount. Most solid surface seam adhesive brands work fine. If Karran Solid Surface Seaming Adhesive is used, the integrity of the seam is guaranteed for 3 years from date of installation. 12

13 Adhere laminate to substrate. Roll the laminate as normal. Roll gently on the rim of the sink. STEP 18 STEP 17 STEP 16 Place one or two sheets of particleboard over the sink area to provide even pressure while seam adhesive cures for approximately 30 minutes. Countertop should not be moved while adhesive is curing. STEP 19 Once seam adhesive has completely cured, begin trimming process. Use a tilt-base trim router with a 1/4" double-fluted straight cut bit with bottom bearing. Set angle of router base at about 8-10 (for Del Mar and Monterey models only, set angle to about 15 ). Run router around sink, remembering to twist router base in corners. A standard router with roundover or bevel bit with bearing set at the correct height may also be used for trimming. 13

14 Router bit should cut into the sink wall very slightly. STEP 21 Sand the edge of the laminate and sink wall with a palm sander. Use a 150 to 220 grit sandpaper. Finish by buffing sink wall with a 3M Scotch-Brite pad. After sanding, the edge of the laminate may be sharp. Use a file at a 45 angle to soften the edge of the laminate. STEP 23 STEP 22 STEP 20 After drilling 1-1/2" faucet holes, place a bead of silicone around wall of FHSR and slide into faucet hole. This will ensure your particleboard is completely sealed from possible water penetration. 14

15 >>> SECTION 4: Installing ACRYLIC SINKS into postform laminate countertops STEP 1 After inspecting the sink for shipping damage, check the depth of the sink rim. The depth of the sink rim needs to be 3/4" or slightly less. Your sink may already have been pre-trimmed at the factory. If not, make a simple template using one sheet of 3/4" particleboard and two strips of 3/4" particleboard trimmed to about 1" wide (depending on your bit length). Staple strips to flat sheet as shown here. Place sink onto template and use a straight cut bit with top bearing to trim rim depth to 3/4". STEP 2 STEP 3 Cut a piece of particleboard approximately 21" wide to use as a work surface. Lay this on a table then place countertop upside down on this particleboard. Pay attention to the non-drip edge. Make sure the countertop is lying completely flat. 15

16 STEP 4 Screw your premade male and female templates onto the back of the countertop in the position where the sink is going to be installed. Use a router with a 3/4" or 1" wide straight cut bit with top bearing and set the bit to a depth 1/16" less than the combined thicknesses of the countertop substrate and the template. Call Karran USA for instructions on template construction. Run router around the templates, removing all the wood except the final layer which should be about 1/16" thick. STEP 6 STEP 5 After routing process has been completed, you will be left with a 2" to 3" wide channel with a 1/16" layer of wood remaining on the back of the laminate. STEP 7 Apply a solvent such as lacquer thinner or adhesive remover to the remaining wood. Place the solvent in a spray bottle then spray from the outside inwards. This helps in preventing seepage between laminate and substrate on the outer edge of the channel. Leave to soak in for 5 minutes. 16

17 STEP 8 Use a sharp chisel to scrap the remaining wood layer off the back of the laminate. Remember to keep your chisel level so that you do not dig the corner of the chisel into the laminate. Tip: Use a sharp knife to score the wood around the perimeter of the channel. This helps when chiseling to release the wood and prevents pushing wood particles under the laminate on the corners. Use a wire brush or cloth with solvent to thoroughly clean the back of the laminate. STEP 9 Tip: Some fabricators like to cut out the center section of wood using a laminate trim router prior to gluing the sink in. STEP 10 Prepare Karran Seaming Adhesive. Remember to purge tube to ensure adhesive is mixing with catalyst. Apply a continuous bead about 1/8" back from the inner front edge of the sink. Bead should be between 1/4" and 3/8" wide. Be cautious not to exceed recommended amount. Most solid surface seam adhesive brands work fine. If Karran Solid Surface Seaming Adhesive is used, the integrity of the seam is guaranteed for 3 years from date of installation. STEP 11 Place sink into the cutout onto the back of the laminate. Wiggle slightly to spread adhesive. Center the sink then place weight on each bowl to provide pressure while adhesive cures. Around 5 lbs to 10 lbs per bowl is sufficient. Some fabricators opt to use no weight at all. 17

18 STEP 12 Check through waste hole that adhesive has oozed out all the way around the rim of the sink. If one area shows no ooze, try place a little extra weight in this area. Do not remove the sink. Any gap can be filled after final trim stage. STEP 13 Once seam adhesive has completely cured, check that there are no high spots on the rim. Check this by sliding a wood support strip from substrate across rim. If it catches on the rim, sand that part of the rim with a sander until underside is flush with the substrate. A surface leveler also works well. Fill gap between sink rim and substrate with 100% silicone. STEP 14 Attached wood strips around rim of sink to provide support. These may be screwed in place or glued and stapled. Do not place wood strips where faucets holes will be drilled. STEP 15 Use a drill to make a pilot hole in the gap between sink wall and substrate. 18

19 STEP 16 Use a tilt-base trim router with a 1/4" double-fluted straight cut bit with bottom bearing. Adjust the angle of router base to about 8-10 (for Del Mar and Monterey models only, set angle to about 15 ). Run router around sink, remembering to twist router base in corners. A standard router with roundover or bevel bit with bearing set at the correct height may also be used for trimming. STEP 17 Sand edge of laminate and sink wall with a palm sander. Use a 150 to 220 grit sandpaper. Finish by buffing sink wall with a 3M Scotch-Brite pad. After sanding, edge of laminate may be sharp. Use a file at a 45 angle to soften edge of laminate. STEP 19 STEP 18 After drilling 1-1/2" faucet holes, place a bead of silicone around wall of FHSR and slide into faucet hole. This will ensure your particleboard is completely sealed from possible water penetration. Faucet Hole Seal Ring 19

20 >>> SECTION 5: Installing EDGE SINKS into solid surface countertops STEP 1 After removing the sink from its box, inspect it for damage. Check the integrity of the rim as well as the bowls for any signs of shipping damage. If sink is damaged, call your distributor or Karran USA immediately. STEP 2 Measure and mark the back side of the solid surface countertop indicating where the sink needs to be installed. A set back from the front edge of 2" to 2-1/2" is recommended but always take into consideration the specific circumstances of each installation relating to cabinet and plumbing placement. STEP 3 Place the sink upside down on the back of the solid surface in the marked position. Use hot melt glue to adhere blocks of wood to locate sink easily. 20

21 Clean the rim of the sink with a denatured alcohol and a clean rag. STEP 5 STEP 4 Clean the back of the solid surface where sink will adhere with a denatured alcohol. Remove all pencil lines. STEP 6 Prepare solid surface seaming adhesive. Remember to purge tube to ensure adhesive is mixing with catalyst. Use a color that is appropriate for the color of solid surface being used. Apply a continuous bead of solid surface seaming adhesive to rim of sink. STEP 7 Place sink into marked position as indicated by the wood locator blocks. Use your preferred clamping method to clamp sink in place while adhesive cures for 30 to 45 minutes. 21

22 Use an overhang bit or trim bit with oversized nylon bearing to remove solid surface from inside of bowl. STEP 8 STEP 9 Initial trimming of the solid surface should be done with a 10 bevel bit with a 1/8" oversized nylon bearing. Adjust the height of the bit in the router until it is cutting as much of the solid surface away as possible without touching the sink. Several passes will need to be made, lowering the bit slightly each time. Pay close attention during this stage as setting the bit too low and touching the sink with the router bit may irreparably damage the sink. Note: Bits with a greater bevel angle can be used but always remember to use a nylon bearing that is 1/8" oversized. STEP 10 After initial trimming with 10 bevel bit, a slight overhang of solid surface should extend past the edge of the bowl wall. At this stage you can progress to the sanding stage (Step 12) if you wish to retain the 10 bevel angle or you may do additional trimming with a 24 or 45 bevel bit. STEP 11 Doing additional trimming with a 24 or 45 bevel bit (45 bevel bit shown here) does provide an attractive profile and also assists in substantially reducing sanding time. 22

23 STEP 12 An orbital sander with a soft radius pad and 60 to 80 micron sandpaper should be used to sand the solid surface back to the bowl wall. Sand the solid surface only, not the sink. Sand at the same angle as the router bit that was used. A drum sander with a 150 grit sandpaper also works well to sand the solid surface. STEP 14 STEP 13 Some hand sanding will be needed during the final sanding of the edge of the solid surface. Always sand parallel to the grain of the sink. STEP 15 A non-woven flap wheel (available from Karran) works well for final buffing and finishing. Keep the flap wheel level as you go around the perimeter of the sink. Do not move up and down. 23

24 Polishing paste (available from Karran) along with a maroon Scotch-Brite pad will polish and finish sink wall if needed. STEP 16 Optional router bits that may be used when fabricating Edge sinks in solid surface Overhang Trim Bit 45 Bevel Bit 24 Bevel Bit 10 Bevel Bit >> SECTION 6: Installing ACRYLIC SINKS into solid surface countertops When installing our acrylic sinks into solid surface, it should be noted that the sink bowl wall angle is generally 6 (Del Mar and Monterey are 12 ). The most suitable bevel bit is an 8 to 10 bevel bit. The most suitable roundover bit is a 3/8" roundover bit with a cutting face angle of about 10. Roundover Bits Amana Tool - Bit #57170 Velepec - Bit # Bevel Bits Amana Tool - Bit #57168 Velepec - Bit # Roundover Bevel 24