Observation Hive. Hive End (top) TOP. Place the metal frame support 3/4 from top, across plowed-out area. DO NOT INTERFERE WITH GROOVES FOR GLASS.

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Shannon O’Neal’
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Observation Hive If practical, place the entrance of the observation hive facing the east, or preferably the south side of the building so the bees can take a cleansing flight on warm winter days.

1 Observation Hive If practical, place the entrance of the observation hive facing the east, or preferably the south side of the building so the bees can take a cleansing flight on warm winter days. If you have to face the hive to the north or west, make a landing board 4 long with an upright header to cut off the cold winter winds from blowing directly into the entrance tube. There is a 12 length of clear, plastic tubing included with this kit to fit into the entrance hole and extend through the wall to the outside. Longer lengths are available at $2.50 per foot. To Assemble 1. There are two pieces of flat metal measuring 1 x 4 and these are to be nailed vertically, 3/4 down from the top of the ends, across the plowed-out slot. This metal will be the support for your frame in this hive. The grooves in the ends are to hold the glass for your hive, so be sure the metal pieces are centered across the slot and do not interfere with the grooves. (Use the 5/8 nails). 2. Nail the ends onto the hive bottom using the 2-1/8 nails and being careful to properly align the grooves that are to hold the glass. Hive End (top) 3. There are four side rails with cuts in the ends. The top rails have two circular cuts that are to FACE UPWARD for the feeder cap to fit into. The bottom rails are similar but slightly wider and are to be positioned on top of the bottom board so that the hive ends fit securely in the notched area of the side rails. 4. Now, you have the bottom and the two ends assembled. Take the top side rails with the half-circle cut-outs UP and place these to the top side edge of the ends and nail with the 1 nails near the ends so the nails will not enter the glass grooves. 5. The cover for your observation hive measures 4 x 20 and the bottom side is rabbeted on both ends and the sides and has two (2) 3 holes for the feeder caps. You will need to purchase two (2) pieces of DOUBLE STRENGTH glass (11 x 19 ) for your hive. BOTTOM TOP Place the metal frame support 3/4 from top, across plowed-out area. DO NOT INTERFERE WITH GROOVES FOR GLASS.

Observation Hive Supers Supers for the observation hive are assembled in the same manner as the original hive. However, there will be no bottom board nor hive top with the super.

2 Observation Hive Supers Supers for the observation hive are assembled in the same manner as the original hive. However, there will be no bottom board nor hive top with the super. Nail the rails to the ends in the same manner as suggested above. BE SURE TO AVOID ALLOWING THE NAILS TO GO INTO THE GLASS GROOVES. Super End (Top) Metal Frame Support Each super will take two (2) pieces of DOUBLE STRENGTH glass (9-1/2 x 19 ) which you will purchase locally. Nail the two (2) 3/4 x 3-1/4 metal strips on the bottom of the ends to hold the glass in place. The two (2) metal L s may be nailed to the corners of the original observation hive, allowing the L to extend above the hive enough to hold the super in place. Place this support 3/4 from top, across plowed-out area. PLACE SO AS TO NOT INTERFERE WITH GROOVES FOR GLASS. Directions for stocking the observation hive You are going to need quite a bit of sugar syrup to feed the bees, so you should secure 10 pounds of table grade granulated sugar and mix 2 parts sugar to 1 part water (warm water will work faster, but is not necessary) and stir until completely dissolved. Then fill either a pint or a quart Mason jar with this mixture and screw on our special feeder cap Fill the syrup feeder as often as necessary and when the comb is drawn out on 2/3 of the foundation, and there is about two square inches of honey sealed over (the honey is sealed over with light colored cappings, while brood is sealed with brown cappings), change the feed to 1 part sugar to 1 part water. With the hive assembled and ready to install the bees, set the cage on a table with the 1-1/4 screened hole on the end next to the 1-1/4 entrance hole of the hive. With books or boards, elevate the hive so that the entrance hole is about even with the 1-1/4 hole in the cage. THEN, cut off 1-1/2 of the plastic hose and insert the end even with the inside surface of the end of the hive. IF SHOVED IN 1/2 OR MORE, THE BEES WILL NOT MOVE INTO THE HIVE. Take the cage of bees to a sink and splash approximately a pint of water on them with your cupped hand. Then return to your table and pry off the 3/8 thick cover on the top of the shipping cage and you will see the queen cage

3 supported with a piece of steel strap next to the feeder can. Now give the shipping cage a hard tap on the table to knock most of the bees to the bottom of the cage and lift out the queen cage and turn the wood cover block over and put back in place on the shipping cage to contain the bees. There may be a few bees clinging to the bottom of the queen cage and it will be best for you to smash them on a piece of paper. You will notice that there is candy feed in one end of the cage and the small cork should be removed so the bees can get to the candy. Shove a ballpoint pen or pencil through the candy so that the queen can be released in an hour or so. Check to see if the queen is alive and okay. The queen will be slightly larger than the attendant worker bees and more yellow in color. However, the main difference you will notice is that the middle part of her body (the part on which the wings and legs are attached is bald) while there are many hairs on this part of the worker bees. On rare occasions, the queen may be found dead, in which case you should notify us immediately for prompt free replacement. Lift up the glass on one side of the hive and place the queen cage on edge about 1 back from the 1-1/4 round hole with the candy end facing the hole and the screen facing you. Now, with a round clothespin, stick, pipe or something similar that will fit through the 1-1/4 hole in the cage, shove the screen in and bend it back and out of the way. Then shove the cage up to the hive and slip the plastic pipe into the hole in the cage. DON T SHOVE THE PLASTIC PIPE IN FURTHER THAN THE INSIDE SURFACE OF THE CAGE OR HIVE OR THE BEES WILL NOT USE IT. It may take the bees 12 hours or more to move from the cage to the hive and it will be best to place cardboard on each side of the cage to darken it. The bees will smell and queen and move into the hive. When the bees have about all moved into the hive, move it to its permanent location and insert the length of plastic pipe even with the inside end of the hive and cut it to length so that the outer end is even, or slightly below, the outside surface of the building. If the pipe is extended 1/2 or more beyond the surface of the building, the bees will not find their way back into the hive. Next fill the feeder jar with syrup and as you put it in place, shake it a little so as to force out some syrup and set the bees to work. If the room is cold at night, place

4 cardboard over the glass. If the feeder runs dry for a few days, the bees will plug up the tiny holes so examine these regularly, and if plugged up, shove the end of a paper clip through them to open. When the foundation is all drawn out, and about all the comb is filled with stores, pollen and brood, put on a super with the same size frame and add additional supers as required. If the bees are not given these extra supers, they will become congested and swarm out leaving very few bees in the hive. Directions for Nailing Frame 1. Drive (1) 1-1/4 nail down through the top bar into each end bar. 2. Drive (1) 1-1/4 nail through each end bar back into the solid part of the top bar (not into the wedge) 3. Nail the bottom bar in place with two 1 nails on each side, driven through the bottom bar into the end bars. Each frame consists of: End Bars- either solid with flat edges or solid with a V on one edge, or grooved with a flat edge) If you have a V on one end of your end bar, you should always have the V towards you on the left and away from you on the right. The purpose of this is to minimize contact between frames making them easier to spread apart after the bees have glued them together. ( V not recommended if using Cowen uncapping equipment). 1-Top Bar- (Either divided, solid, grooved or wedge) 1-Bottom Bar- (Either solid, two piece divided, or grooved.) The solid bottom bar & the grooved bottom bar are now the same. Simply flip bottom bar for grooved or solid. Installing wax foundation When installing wax foundation into a wedge top frame, split the wedge out with your hive tool. Plane off any burrs on the wedge and on the newly created shelf, with the flat side of your tool. With the frame in the up position and the new shelf facing towards you, lay the foundation on the frame with the hooks up, and facing out. Holding both the frame and foundation, move the wax till it falls between the divided bottom bars and then raise to the top of the shelf. Replace

5 the wedge and turn your frame so it rests on your bench on the top bar. Next using ¾ nails, nail down through the wedge and into the top bar. Be sure to angle the nails so they don t come through the top bar. This is an example of our end bar with the V.

Basic Hive Building. By Dan Novak. All rights reserved

Basic Hive Building. By Dan Novak. All rights reserved Basic Hive Building By Dan Novak All rights reserved Basic Hive Building Langstroth Tools required Hammer Glue exterior waterproof/resistant Nails 7d galvanized Tape measure Chalk Acid brush for glue Small