Spanish Farthingale Dress
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- Cathleen Richard
- 6 years ago
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1 SpanishFarthingaleDress Thisdresshasa separatebodice, underskirtandover skirt,aswellasa partletattheneck.. Thebodiceopensin theback,theunder skirtopensattheside, andtheoverskirt opensinthefront. Therearenofitting seamsinthebodice. AlthoughIdidnotadd boningtothebodice, youcertainlycould.it wouldhelptokeepthe frontpointdownand addsomebodytothe frontofthebodice. Theunderskirtwas madewithmuslinin thebacktoconserve fabric,whichwas certainlydoneinthe 16 th Century.Theover skirtclosesinthe frontunderthepoint ofthebodice.the straightsleeveshavea gatheredcap. Thisdressisworn withaspanish farthingaleandcan alsohaveabumrollin thebackforthesupportofthecartridgepleating.(seethebumrollpattern underthefrenchfarthingaledress
2 SpanishFarthingale Cut2fromeachofthepatternpieces,adding¼ forseamallowance(thiscan bemadeusingmuslinorsimilarfabric) Whentracingthepattern,makesurethatyou markallofthelinesfortheboning. Sewtheseamsforeachsetofthepatternso thatyouendupwithtwosinglelayer farthingaleskirts.thenstitchthetwotogether atthebottomwithrightsidestogether.finish thesideopeningsbyturningtheseam allowanceinandhandormachinestitchingit closed.thetopisfinishedwithapieceofbias tape,leavingenoughatthesidesinordertotie thefarthingaleintoplace.makesurethatyou addthepleatsatthefrontandthebackin orderforthewaisttofitthedressform. Nowstitcharoundthefarthingaleonthelines fortheboning.makesurethattheyare continuouscirclesaroundthefarthingale. Openthebackseaminthemiddleoftheboninglinesfortheinsertionofthe boning.thiscanbedoneeasilywithaseamripper. Iused3/8 plasticcabletiesfortheboning.(theycanbeboughtatany hardwarestore)buythemaslongasyoucanfind.cutofftheendsandinsert intotheboningchannels.ifthecabletiestripsaretooshort,justinsert another,overlapthefirstthenfinishthechannelbyslippingbothendsinto thechannelandstitchingclosed. ResourcesforthemakingoftheSpanishFarthingale: Hunnisett,Jean,PeriodCostumeForStage&Screen,PatternsforWomen s Dress ,StudioCity,CA:PlayersPress,Inc.,1991,p Mikhaila,NinyaandMalcolm Davies,Jane,TheTudorTailor;Reconstructing Sixteenth CenturyDress,London:Batsford,2006,p
3 Bodice 1.Cutbodicepiecesfromfashionfabricandasecondsetforthelining,using muslinorsomeother liningmaterialadding¼ seamallowance. 2.Cutoutathirdfront patternpieceofmuslin fortheinnerlining. 3.Bastetheinnerlining andtheliningtogether forthefrontpiecewith wrongsidestogether. 4.Stitchinthebone casinglinesdownthe front,leavinganopening atthetopforthe insertionoftheboning. 5.Stitchthefashion fabricpiecetogetherat thesideseamsand shoulders. 6.Stitchtheliningbackpiecestotheinnerlining/liningfrontpieceattheside seamsandshoulders. 7.Insert1/8 wideplasticcabletiesintothebonecasing(thesecanbefound inanyhardwarestore) 8.Stitchthefashionfabricbodiceandtheliningfabricbodicetogetheratthe bottomedge,topedgeandback.leavethearmscyeopenforturning. 9.Turnthebodiceandiron.Bastethearmscyeclosed. Sleeves 1.Cutoutsleeveandsleevecappiecesfrombothfashionfabricandmuslinfor liningadding¼ seamallowance. 2.Bastethesleevecapliningandfashionfabrictogether. 3.Gatherthetopandthebottomofthesleevecap. 4.Stitchthebottomofthesleevecaptothestitchinglineonthesleeve pattern. 5.Bastethetopofthegatheredsleevecaptothetopofthesleeve. 6.Stitchtheliningofthesleevetothesleeveatthewrist.
4 7.Opentheliningfromthesleeveandstitchupthesideseamwiththeright sidestogetherandturn. 8.Pulltheliningupinsidethesleeveandbastetothetopofthesleeve. 9.Stitchthesleevetothearmscyeofthebodice. UnderSkirt Theunderskirthasfrontand backpatternpieces.eachofthese areprintedonthreepages.you canprintthemout,cutthemout andtapethemtogethertogetthe fullpatternpieces.makesureto add¼ seamallowancetoeach patternpiece. 1.Cutonefrontpieceonthefold frommuslinandfashionfabric 2.Cuttwopiecesfromtheback piecesfromthemuslinandthe fashionfabriconlytotheline marked. 3.Cutonewaistband. 4.Stitchthebackfashionfabric piecestothebackmuslinpieces topstitchingattheupperedge. 5.Bastethefrontfashionfabric pieceandthefrontmuslinpiece together. 6.StitchtheFashion fabric/muslinfrontandback piecestogetheratthesideand backseamsleavinganopeningat thesideforclosures. 9.Ironinthepleatsatthetopof theskirtandbastedown. 10.Attachtheskirttothewaistband,handstitchtotheinsideandadd closures.
5 OverSkirt TheOverskirthasthreepatternpieces. Thefront,backandfacing.Ihave printedoutthefrontandbackpieces showingthewidthandthepleatsatthe topedge.thelengthshouldbe measuredtoatotalof19 long.the Facingpatternisintwoparts,whichcan beprinted,cutoutandtapedtogether. Add¼ seamallowancetoallofthe patternpieces. 1.Cutoutthefront,backandfacing piecesfromthefashionfabric. 2.Cutoutthefrontandbackpieces fromaliningfabric(muslincanbe used). 3.Stitchthesideseamsonboththe liningandthefashionfabric. 4.Bastetheliningandfashionfabric piecestogetherwithwrongsides together. 5.Irononastabilizer(Wiganworks well)ontothetopoftheskirt,¾ down fromthetopedgeforsupportofthecartridgepleats. 6.Foldthetopedgedown¾ overthestabilizerandbastedown. 7.Attachthefacingsoneithersideofthefrontpieces. 8.Foldbackandstichinplace. 9.Foldinthepleatsatthetopofthefrontpiecesandbasteinplace. 10.Cartridgepleatthe remainingtopofthe skirt.(seetheresources forinstructionsin cartridgepleating) 11.Attachtothe waistbandbyhand stitchingboththetop andthebottomofeach pleat.
6 ResourcesfortheSpanishFarthingaleDress: Ingham,RosemaryandCovey,Liz,ThecostumeTechnician shandbook, Portsmouth,NH:Heinemann,2003,p (forinformationonCartridge pleating) Partlet Iusedadoublelayerof chiffon Cut4ofPartletFront Cut2ofPartletbackon Fold Cut2ofCollarpiece Add¼ seamallowance toallthepatternpieces. StitchtheFrontpieces togetheratthecenter frontthenstitchbasic bodypiecestogetherat theshouldersandsides. Thecollarwasstitched togetherwithpearlsin betweenthetwolayersoffabricatthetopofthecollarthenattachcollarto theneckopening.handstitchtheinsidecollar. Icutalloftheseamallowancesdowntoabout1/8to1/16ofaninchsothat theywouldnotshowontherightsideofthepartlet. ResourcesformakingthePartlet: Hunnisett,Jean,PeriodCostumeForStage&Screen,PatternsforWomen s Dress ,StudioCity,CA:PlayersPress,Inc.,1991,p
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At the same site, here is a page with detailed instructions for making a bedgown:
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