DEEP V ARGYLE VEST. For bust sizes 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42. Finished bust measurement: 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42

Transcription

1 A sharply tailored, up-to-date take on the classic argyle sweater vest, worked in one piece using the stranded Fair Isle method and no intarsia. Steeks are used to form the armholes, deep front v and back neck shaping, allowing the entire vest to be worked in the round. A good example of how traditional techniques can be married with a decidedly modern aesthetic, this pattern provides an excellent introduction to stranded color knitting and all the special techniques associated with it: handling decreases to maintain pattern continuity; setting, working, cutting and finishing crocheted steeks; applying neck and arm bands; and blocking for Fair Isle garments. For bust sizes 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 Finished bust measurement: 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 Finished length: 21.5, 22, 22.5, 23, 23.5, Eunny Jang All Rights Reserved

2 Skills Needed This pattern is a good first project for the adventurous colorwork novice. Though most tension and gauge inconsistencies will even out with blocking, it is recommended that you knit several swatches in the round and get comfortable with holding and manipulating two colors before casting on for the vest. Yarn Requirements and Notes Garment: DK weight Merino wool, approximately yds/50g ball, 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5) 50g balls main color; 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5) 50g balls contrast color. Steek finishing: DK weight wool or mohair/wool blend, yds/50g ball, 1 50g ball for all sizes. This vest uses crocheted steeks to split the armholes and front and back neck. Steeks rely on the natural felting tendency of wool yarns to avoid unraveling when cut - use a pure animal fiber yarn (NOT a superwash) to knit the garment, and a hairy, sticky pure animal fiber yarn (NOT a superwash) to crochet the steeks. A mohair/wool blend like Dalegarn Tiur is ideal for working the crochet. Gauge, Needles and Notions 22 stitches and 30 rows over 4. For a garment so closely fitted, gauge is critical take the time to work a swatch, in the round, by casting on three or four repeats of the argyle pattern, splitting between three or four double pointed needles, and working several inches in pattern. Wash and block your swatch the same way you would the final garment, pin it flat, and measure gauge. Adjust needle size as necessary to achieve gauge. Recommended needles: 3.5mm (US4) 29 circular needle; set 3.5mm (US4) dpns. You may find that colorwork is smoother and gauge easier to maintain on bamboo or wooden needles than on slick metal. Other notions: 3.0mm crochet hook; tapestry needle; small-bladed, sharp scissors. Sizes and Fit Notes (12, 12.25, 12.5, 12.75, 13) 8.5 (9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11) 13 (14, 15, 16, 17, 18) 16 (17, 18, 19, 20, 21) This vest is intended to be worn with a very close, tailored fit over a single thin layer - the pictured vest was knit with a 34 finished bust measurement to fit a 34 bust. It s recommended that this garment be knit with zero ease for all sizes. Instructions for size 32 appear first, with (34, 36, 38, 40, 42) appearing in parentheses. Abbreviations BO: bind off; CO: cast on (long-tail method preferred); cc: contrasting color; k: knit; k2tog: decrease 1stitch by knitting 2 together; m1: make 1 stitch, in pattern, by raising horizontal bar between left and right needles and knitting into its back; MC: main color (color used for ribbing and bands); PM: place marker; p: purl; st, sts: stitch, stitches; ssk: decrease 1 stitch by slipping 1 stitch as if to knit, slipping 1 stitch as if to knit, and knitting these two stitches together through their back loops (14, 14.25, 14.5, 14.75, 15) 7.75 (8, 8.25, 8.5, 8.75, 9) 2

3 Notes on Handling Decreases in Fair Isle Knitting Steeks afford the knitter the freedom to shape the garment however she likes within the fabric of the body; for example, just inside the armholes and at the front and back necks. Decreasing in a patterned fabric, though, can present some problems when done the usual way. In plain knitting, most of us decrease like this: The very simple solution: in Fair Isle and other colored knitting, always (1) decrease in the first or last two stitches possible (right up against the edge or steek); and (2) reverse the decreases, meaning each decrease should slant towards the edge and away from the center of the garment. An edge that slants from right to left as it grows is made of k2togs (instead of ssks): The decreases are made two or three stitches in from the edge, and they are worked such that they slant away from the shaped edge and toward the center of the garment. A smooth, continuous line is created where a series of decreases runs. To create the edge above, a ssk is used, while the opposite slant would be created with a k2tog. while the edge that slants from left to right as it groes is made of ssks (instead of k2togs). However, this approach presents problems when working with patterned knitting Every time a decrease is used in this pattern, work it over the two stitches nearest the edge of the chart, and use the appropriate decrease as described above. As you are decreasing, follow the chart carefully to maintain the pattern along the shaped edges. Even the simplest color pattern (a 1x1 check) is disrupted by the decreases. Any stitches between the decrease and the edge, though worked in pattern, are thrown out of alignment with the stitches above and below them. **The diagrams on this page show decreases against the edge formed by a steek. In the body of the vest, the edge will be formed by two faux seams at each side of the piece. Work all decreases, as shown, in the charted colorwork portion of the garment immediately adjacent to these seams. 3

4 Notes on Steekng This section is written with the complete steek neophyte in mind. If you ve chosen this vest as an introduction to steeking - huzzah! All the steeks you ll be working in this piece are as straightforward as possible. Please read this section carefully. Knowing what to expect makes the whole thing less terrifying and more of a quick, simple means to an end. All the information needed to make this project a successful foray into traditional circular knitting is presented here; follow it closely, and you ll wonder why you haven t made every sweater this way. First - why bother with a steek at all? In practice, setting, knitting, and slicing a steek is just a handy way to knit an entire sweater in the round by creating a bridge of waste stitches wherever a separation would be, i.e. between front and back for an armhole, or between the right and left sides of the neck, or all the way up the front of a cardigan. On the left is a stylized image of a pullover body. As you can see, the body could be knitted as a tube up to the armpits, but the front and back would have to be worked back and forth, as would each side of the neck. On the right, you see what a steek allows you to do - by filling in all those openings with a bridge of waste stitches, the entire garment may be knit as a tube, in the round, with all your armscye and neck shapings done in the sweater body. Steeks are useless, of course, if they unravel into the body of the sweater - most steeks need some sort of reinforcement applied around the site of the cut to keep this from happening. This sweater uses the crochet method. Although the crochet chain provides hold, the real work is done by the slight grabbiness of the yarn - as you work, the fibers will have grown together and started to felt with their neighbors, however slightly. This is an important factor in keeping the cut edge together - superwash and plant or synthetic yarns, and anything else that will not felt, are unsuitable for this treatment. All steeks are worked with a set of waste stitches flanked by one border stitch on either side. The border stitch, worked in the main color, will later become the line for picking up arm and neckbands. The waste stitches are cut up the middle and folded back to form a neat facing as part of garment finishing. The crocheted steek is worked over an odd number of waste stitches. Only the center three stitches will be used for the crochet, but the steek may be worked with as many stitches as desired for a wider or narrower facing. This picture represents the center three stitches of a crocheted steek. The center waste stitch is shown in blue, the stitches on either side of it in pink, and the eventual cutting line in black. Why should we care about knitting in the round? For a variety of reasons, stranded colorwork is easier and faster in the round: the knit stitch is quicker to form than the purl stitch; the pattern is always visible, allowing the knitter to read his work; seams are minimized or eliminated altogether. Every knit stitch forms a distinct V shape, with a right side and a left side - the second drawing shows, in red, the pairs that need to be joined with a single crochet chain - the first pair is made up of the adjoining parts of the leftmost and center stitch, and the second pair is made up of the adjoining parts of the center and rightmost stitch. 4

5 Notes on Steekng, cont. This is a stylized representation of what an armhole steek will look like before cutting. The armpit stitches have been placed on a holder (represented by the magenta line), and nine extra stitches cast on for the steek. The two gray stitches, marked with pink arrows, on the outer edges are the border stitches. The dashed line shows the future site of the cut. Lay your crochet yarn over the hook so the working (skein) side runs to the left and the short tail to the right. Catch it with the hook, and pull it through the two loops on the needle. Catch the working yarn with the hook once more... The center three stitches, highlighted in pink and blue. And pull it through the loop on your needle. That s one stitch of single crochet. Turn your work so what would be the left side of the steek is closest to you. You ll be working this side first. Starting at the far right side (the bottom of your steek), pick up the far side of the adjoining stitch and the near side of the center stitch with your crochet hook. If things were right side up, you d be picking up the right half of the first stitch and the left half of the center stitch, just as in the diagram. Be careful to pick up only those two loops and not the floats behind the work. Keep going by picking up the pair of stitch halves directly to the left (the next row, were things oriented and forming another stitch of single crochet. Continue in this way until you reach the last stitch stitch pair on the left (the top row of the steek). Work these stitches as directed, cut your yarn, and pull it through the last loop on the needle to end. 5

6 Notes on Steekng, cont. It s important to note that the tension should be firm, but should not pucker the knitting - go up or down in hook size or adjust the yarn weight if the crochet looks too loose or is gathering the steek in. Try starting with yarn of the same weight and a crochet hook half a millimeter smaller than the needles used for knitting. When the first side is complete, it should look something like this. If you gently pull the two lines of crochet apart, you ll see a ladder down the center of the middle stitch. These are the purl bumps of the center stitch - the cutting line. Turn the work 180 degrees, so the right side of the steek is nearest you. Starting from the far right side again (the top of the steek), work just as you did before until you reach the far left, or bottom. Cut the yarn and pull it through. Using small, sharp scissors and working under a bright light, carefully snip between the two lines of crochet, cutting just one thread at a time. It s very easy to cut into the crochet by accident, which renders the steek useless, so 1) work your crochet in a highly contrasting color; and 2) don t rush. The finished crochet should look something like this - the visible loops should slant neatly away from the center, rather like a book laid open. The cut steek should form a neat, clean edge, the crochet forming a tidy criscross of threads that holds everything together. Grab a drink - you ve just cut your first steek! 6

7 Detailed Instructions Using MC and circular needle, CO 84 (88, 96, 100, 104, 112) stitches; pm, co 3 stitches for side seam, pm, CO 84 (88, 96, 100, 104, 112) stitches, pm, co 3 stitch for side seam, pm for end-ofround; join into round, being careful not to twist stitches. Round 1: * K1. K2, p2 until one stitch remains before first marker. K1. Slip marker, k1, p1, k1, slip marker. Repeat from * for garment back. Work as Round 1 for 17 rows more. Increase round: *K1. Working ribbing as set, increase 1 (3, 1, 1, 3, 1) sts evenly between marker just slipped and next marker. Slip marker, k1, p1, k1, slip marker. Repeat from * for garment back. Begin colorwork pattern. The argyle-style pattern is intuituve and easy to memorize, but the full front and back of each size are charted for convenience in shaping within pattern. The front and back of the vest are separated by false seams of one purl stitch in contrast color, flanked by one main color knit stitch on either side. The vertical stripes formed by these 3 stitches will be maintained until armhole steeks are set all shaping will be done within the colorwork portions of the front and back immediately adjacent to the stripes. Work all decreases as directed on page 3 of this pattern - decreases on the right side of the chart should be worked with a k2tog; decreases on the left side of the chart should be worked with a ssk. Chart A shows the waist shaping of every size through round 56. Steek, arm and neck shaping beyond round 56 are shown on individual charts A32, A34, A36, A38, A40 and A42. Continue with the correct chart for your size beyond round 56. READ THROUGH THE PATTERN BEFORE BEGIN- NING! The nature of wholly circular knitting means a lot of things happen in the same row. Pay careful attention to the charted diagrams and the written instructions to stay on track. Round 1: Work row 1 of color chart A. Slip marker, k1 MC, p1 CC, k1 MC, slip marker. Work row 1 of color chart for garment back; slip marker, k1 MC, p1 CC, k1 MC, slip marker. Work 3 (2, 3, 3, 4, 3) rounds more as set, following pattern. Round 5 (4, 5, 5, 6, 5): Work as set, decreasing one stitch at either side of chart (4 sts decreased). Following color chart and keeping side seams as set, dec 1 st at either side of chart every 4th (3rd, 4th, 4th, 5th, 4th) row 7 (1, 8, 1, 7, 2) times, and then every -- (4th, --, 5th, --, 5th) row -- (7, --, 6, --, 6) times. Work 8 (all sizes) rounds even as set, following color chart. Row 41 (43, 45, 47, 49, 51): Work as set, increasing one stitch at either side of chart (4 sts decreased). Following color chart and keeping side seams as set, inc 1 st at either side of chart every 6th (6th, 6th, 6th, 6th, 6th) row 6 (1, 1, 6, 6, 1) times more, and then every 5th row 1 (7, 7, 1, 1, 7) times. AT THE SAME TIME, set neck steeks and work neck decreases as follows - Round 57 (59, 61, 63, 65, 67): Hold center 11 sts of front panel on scrap yarn. Using the long-tail method (treat the MC as the working yarn and the CC as the tail), CO 9 sts. Working side decreases as established and keeping side seams as set, decrease 1 stitch at either side of neck steek every 4th (4th, 4th, 4th, 4th, 3rd) row 7 (10, 18, 16, 23, 6) times, and then every 5th (5th, 5th, 5th, --, 4th) row 11, (9, 3, 5, --, 19) times. Work the 9 cast-on stitches of the steek even, following Chart B. Work 3 (3, 3, 3, 2, 2) rounds even. 8 (8, 9, 11, 12, 13) stitches remain at each shoulder. Set arm steeks **Continue to work front neck decreases and front neck steek as established** 7

8 Round 86 (88, 90, 92, 94, 96): Work to last 8 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 11) stitches of round. Slip these stitches to a piece of scrap yarn, discarding markers. Slip the first 5 (5, 6, 7, 8, 8) stitches of Round 87 (89, 91, 93, 95, 97) to scrap yarn. Using the long-tail method, CO 9 sts. Work across front to last 5 (5, 6, 7, 8, 8) sts before side seam. Slip these stitches, 3 side seam stitches, and next 5 (5, 6, 7, 8, 8) sts from back to a piece of scrap yarn, discarding markers. Using the long-tail method, CO 9 sts. Work across back. Following Chart B, work first 4 sts of steek; PM for end-of-round. Begin Armscye Shaping **Continue to work front neck decreases, front neck steek, and arm steeks as established.** Round 88 (90, 92, 94, 96, 98): Dec 1 st at either side of color chart A32 (A34, A36, A38, A40, A42). (4 sts decreased at armholes) Repeat round 88 (90, 02, 94, 96, 98) a total of 5 (6, 5, 3, 3, 3) times more. Continue to work as established, decreasing at front neck as set. **Continue to work front neck decreases and arm steeks as established.** Set Back Neck Steek Round 137 (141, 145, 149, 153, 157): Work front as set. Slip center 33 (35, 39, 41, 43, 47) sts of back to a piece of scrap yarn. Using the long-tail method, CO 9 sts. If you haven t yet switched to DPNs or a two-circular technique, do so now to compensate for the rapidly diminishing circumference of the garment. Work across remaining back stitches to end of round. Start Back Neck Shaping **Continue to work front neck decreases and arm steeks as established.** Round 138 (142, 146, 150, 154, 158): Work front as set. Dec 1 st at either side of back neck steek, following color chart (2 sts decreased at back neck) Repeat round 138 (142, 146, 150, 154, 158) a total of 5 times more. 8 (8, 9, 11, 12, 13) stitches remain at each shoulder. Cut Steeks Work 1 round even, binding off center 7 stitches of arm, front neck and back neck steeks. Break both yarns. Move live shoulder stitches, together with the adjacent MC stitch from the steeks on either side to four seperate holders. 10 (10, 11, 13, 14, 15) stitches slipped to each holder. Secure and cut steeks as described on pages 5 and 6 of this pattern. Take a deep breath. Have a drink. Let your family back in the room. Join Shoulders Turn garment inside out. Join front and back shoulders to each other, either using a 3-needle bindoff or by grafting. Turn back to the right side. Apply Arm Bands **Pick up stitches through MC border stitch at edge of armhole** Using a short circular or DPNs and MC, pick up and knit 104 (108, 114, 120, 124, 128) sts evenly around armhole, incorporating stitches on holder at armpit; join into round. Work in k2, p2 rib for 7 rounds; bind off. Repeat for second armhole. 8

9 Apply Neck Band **Pick up stitches through MC border stitch at edge of neckline** Using a circular needle and MC, pick up and knit 182 (188, 194, 200, 206, 212) sts evenly along neckline. Start at left corner of front neck, work up left front and down left back, incorporate held stitches at back center neck, work up right back and down right front. Do not incorporate stitches on holder at front center neck. Turn and work flat in k2, p2 rib for 15 rows; bind off. work looks less than perfect at this point, fear not - almost any gauge and tension inconsistency will dissapear with blocking and a flat, smooth surface will emerge. After the vest is completely dry, unpin and finish the steeks. Fold each steek flap under to the inside of the vest, and with a length of the crochet yarn and a sharp tapestry needle, tack the cut edge to the the body. Take care as you sew to make the facing lie flat and smooth, and that your stitches do not show on the right side. Weave in all ends. Overlap the two ends of the neckband. Sew the selvedge of each end flat to the held stitches at center neck, forming a squared-off V neck. Finishing Weave in all loose ends of garment body, but leave beginning and ending tails of crochet hanging. Soak the garment in lukewarm water with mild soap for 15 or 20 minutes, until the fabric is thoroughly saturated and the fibers have relaxes. Rinse carefully in a second basin of same-temperature water, and squeeze very gently to remove excess water. Do not wring or twist! Lay the garment flat on a thirsty towel, roll it up, and stand or lean on it to remove as much water as possible. The vest cannot, of course, be blocked in pieces, and the stranded Fair-Isle creates a double-thick fabric to each layer. The quadruple thickness means you will want to get out as much water as you possibly can before pinning, to reduce drying time and the chance of mildew (ew!). On a non-absorbent surface such as a blocking board (though you can make do by covering your usual blocking surface - spare room bed, couch - with a heavy garbage bag), pin the vest carefully to finished measurements, folding the cut flaps of the steeks under to the inside of the garment. You may have to be quite aggressive in pinning, since stranding makes even the most experienced knitter s work pucker (if ever so slightly). If your Questions and erratum: support@eunnyjang.com Ordering information: orders@eunnyjang,com General inquiries: eunny@eunnyjang.com This pattern is for personal, non-commercial use ONLY. All other uses require the prior permission of the author. Reproduction or distribution of this pattern without the express permisison of the author is strictly prohibited. This includes distribution of this work through electronic or print media. Printed copies of this pattern may be made for personal use, and may not be resold. Please help prevent copyright infringement. I trust you guys. 9

10 CHART A CHART B KEY FOR ALL CHARTS = contrast color = main color 10

11 CHART A32 11

12 CHART A34 12

13 CHART A36 13

14 CHART A38 14

15 CHART A40 15

16 CHART A42 16

17 sizes A sharply tailored, up-to-date take on the classic argyle sweater vest, worked in one piece using the stranded Fair Isle method and no intarsia. Steeks are used to form the armholes, deep front v and back neck shaping, allowing the entire vest to be worked in the round. A good example of how traditional techniques can be married with a decidedly modern aesthetic, this pattern provides an excellent introduction to stranded color knitting and all the special techniques associated with it: handling decreases to maintain pattern continuity; setting, working, cutting and finishing crocheted steeks; applying neck and arm bands; and blocking for Fair Isle garments. For bust sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54 Finished bust measurement: 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54 Finished length: 24.5, 25, 25.5, 26, 26.5, Eunny Jang All Rights Reserved

18 sizes Skills Needed This pattern is a good first project for the adventurous colorwork novice. Though most tension and gauge inconsistencies will even out with blocking, it is recommended that you knit several swatches in the round and get comfortable with holding and manipulating two colors before casting on for the vest. Yarn Requirements and Notes Garment: DK weight Merino wool, approximately yds/50g ball, 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9) 50g balls main color; 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8) 50g balls contrast color. Steek finishing: DK weight wool or mohair/wool blend, yds/50g ball, 1 50g ball for all sizes. This vest uses crocheted steeks to split the armholes and front and back neck. Steeks rely on the natural felting tendency of wool yarns to avoid unraveling when cut - use a pure animal fiber yarn (NOT a superwash) to knit the garment, and a hairy, sticky pure animal fiber yarn (NOT a superwash) to crochet the steeks. A mohair/wool blend like Dalegarn Tiur is ideal for working the crochet. Gauge, Needles and Notions 22 stitches and 30 rows over 4. For a garment so closely fitted, gauge is critical take the time to work a swatch, in the round, by casting on three or four repeats of the argyle pattern, splitting between three or four double pointed needles, and working several inches in pattern. Wash and block your swatch the same way you would the final garment, pin it flat, and measure both stitch and row gauge. Adjust needle size as necessary to achieve gauge. Recommended needles: 3.5mm (US4) 29 circular needle; set 3.5mm (US4) dpns. You may find that colorwork is smoother and gauge easier to maintain on bamboo or wooden needles than on slick metal. Other notions: 3.0mm crochet hook; tapestry needle; small-bladed, sharp scissors. Sizes and Fit Notes (13.5, 13.75, 14, 14.25, 14.5) 11.5 (12, 12.5, 13, 13.5, 14) 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24) 22 (23, 24, 25, 26, 27) This vest is intended to be worn with a very close, tailored fit over a single thin layer - the pictured vest was knit with a 34 finished bust measurement to fit a 34 bust. It s recommended that this garment be knit with zero ease for all sizes. Instructions for size 44 appear first, with (46, 48, 50, 52, 54) appearing in parentheses. Abbreviations BO: bind off; CO: cast on (long-tail method preferred); CC: contrasting color; k: knit; k2tog: decrease 1stitch by knitting 2 together; m1: make 1 stitch, in pattern, by raising horizontal bar between left and right needles and knitting into its back; MC: main color (color used for ribbing and bands); PM: place marker; p: purl; st, sts: stitch, stitches; ssk: decrease 1 stitch by slipping 1 stitch as if to knit, slipping 1 stitch as if to knit, and knitting these two stitches together through their back loops 8 (8.25, 8.5, 8.75, 9, 9.25) (14, 14.25, 14.5, 14.75, 15) 2

19 sizes Notes on Handling Decreases in Fair Isle Knitting Steeks afford the knitter the freedom to shape the garment however she likes within the fabric of the body; for example, just inside the armholes and at the front and back necks. Decreasing in a patterned fabric, though, can present some problems when done the usual way. In plain knitting, most of us decrease like this: The very simple solution: in Fair Isle and other colored knitting, always (1) decrease in the first or last two stitches possible (right up against the edge or steek); and (2) reverse the decreases, meaning each decrease should slant towards the edge and away from the center of the garment. An edge that slants from right to left as it grows is made of k2togs (instead of ssks): The decreases are made two or three stitches in from the edge, and they are worked such that they slant away from the shaped edge and toward the center of the garment. A smooth, continuous line is created where a series of decreases runs. To create the edge above, a ssk is used, while the opposite slant would be created with a k2tog. while the edge that slants from left to right as it groes is made of ssks (instead of k2togs). However, this approach presents problems when working with patterned knitting Every time a decrease is used in this pattern, work it over the two stitches nearest the edge of the chart, and use the appropriate decrease as described above. As you are decreasing, follow the chart carefully to maintain the pattern along the shaped edges. Even the simplest color pattern (a 1x1 check) is disrupted by the decreases. Any stitches between the decrease and the edge, though worked in pattern, are thrown out of alignment with the stitches above and below them. **The diagrams on this page show decreases against the edge formed by a steek. In the body of the vest, the edge will be formed by two faux seams at each side of the piece. Work all decreases, as shown, in the charted colorwork portion of the garment immediately adjacent to these seams. 3

20 sizes Notes on Steekng This section is written with the complete steek neophyte in mind. If you ve chosen this vest as an introduction to steeking - huzzah! All the steeks you ll be working in this piece are as straightforward as possible. Please read this section carefully. Knowing what to expect makes the whole thing less terrifying and more of a quick, simple means to an end. All the information needed to make this project a successful foray into traditional circular knitting is presented here; follow it closely, and you ll wonder why you haven t made every sweater this way. First - why bother with a steek at all? In practice, setting, knitting, and slicing a steek is just a handy way to knit an entire sweater in the round by creating a bridge of waste stitches wherever a separation would be, i.e. between front and back for an armhole, or between the right and left sides of the neck, or all the way up the front of a cardigan. On the left is a stylized image of a pullover body. As you can see, the body could be knitted as a tube up to the armpits, but the front and back would have to be worked back and forth, as would each side of the neck. On the right, you see what a steek allows you to do - by filling in all those openings with a bridge of waste stitches, the entire garment may be knit as a tube, in the round, with all your armscye and neck shapings done in the sweater body. Steeks are useless, of course, if they unravel into the body of the sweater - most steeks need some sort of reinforcement applied around the site of the cut to keep this from happening. This sweater uses the crochet method. Although the crochet chain provides hold, the real work is done by the slight grabbiness of the yarn - as you work, the fibers will have grown together and started to felt with their neighbors, however slightly. This is an important factor in keeping the cut edge together - superwash and plant or synthetic yarns, and anything else that will not felt, are unsuitable for this treatment. All steeks are worked with a set of waste stitches flanked by one border stitch on either side. The border stitch, worked in the main color, will later become the line for picking up arm and neckbands. The waste stitches are cut up the middle and folded back to form a neat facing as part of garment finishing. The crocheted steek is worked over an odd number of waste stitches. Only the center three stitches will be used for the crochet, but the steek may be worked with as many stitches as desired for a wider or narrower facing. This picture represents the center three stitches of a crocheted steek. The center waste stitch is shown in blue, the stitches on either side of it in pink, and the eventual cutting line in black. Why should we care about knitting in the round? For a variety of reasons, stranded colorwork is easier and faster in the round: the knit stitch is quicker to form than the purl stitch; the pattern is always visible, allowing the knitter to read his work; seams are minimized or eliminated altogether. Every knit stitch forms a distinct V shape, with a right side and a left side - the second drawing shows, in red, the pairs that need to be joined with a single crochet chain - the first pair is made up of the adjoining parts of the leftmost and center stitch, and the second pair is made up of the adjoining parts of the center and rightmost stitch. 4

21 sizes Notes on Steekng, cont. This is a stylized representation of what an armhole steek will look like before cutting. The armpit stitches have been placed on a holder (represented by the magenta line), and nine extra stitches cast on for the steek. The two gray stitches, marked with pink arrows, on the outer edges are the border stitches. The dashed line shows the future site of the cut. Lay your crochet yarn over the hook so the working (skein) side runs to the left and the short tail to the right. Catch it with the hook, and pull it through the two loops on the needle. Catch the working yarn with the hook once more... The center three stitches, highlighted in pink and blue. And pull it through the loop on your needle. That s one stitch of single crochet. Turn your work so what would be the left side of the steek is closest to you. You ll be working this side first. Starting at the far right side (the bottom of your steek), pick up the far side of the adjoining stitch and the near side of the center stitch with your crochet hook. If things were right side up, you d be picking up the right half of the first stitch and the left half of the center stitch, just as in the diagram. Be careful to pick up only those two loops and not the floats behind the work. Keep going by picking up the pair of stitch halves directly to the left (the next row, were things oriented) and forming another stitch of single crochet. Continue in this way until you reach the last stitch stitch pair on the left (the top row of the steek). Work these stitches as directed, cut your yarn, and pull it through the last loop on the needle to end. 5

22 sizes Notes on Steekng, cont. It s important to note that the tension should be firm, but should not pucker the knitting - go up or down in hook size or adjust the yarn weight if the crochet looks too loose or is gathering the steek in. Try starting with yarn of the same weight and a crochet hook half a millimeter smaller than the needles used for knitting. When the first side is complete, it should look something like this. If you gently pull the two lines of crochet apart, you ll see a ladder down the center of the middle stitch. These are the purl bumps of the center stitch - the cutting line. Turn the work 180 degrees, so the right side of the steek is nearest you. Starting from the far right side again (the top of the steek), work just as you did before until you reach the far left, or bottom. Cut the yarn and pull it through. Using small, sharp scissors and working under a bright light, carefully snip between the two lines of crochet, cutting just one thread at a time. It s very easy to cut into the crochet by accident, which renders the steek useless, so 1) work your crochet in a highly contrasting color; and 2) don t rush. The finished crochet should look something like this - the visible loops should slant neatly away from the center, rather like a book laid open. The cut steek should form a neat, clean edge, the crochet forming a tidy criscross of threads that holds everything together. Grab a drink - you ve just cut your first steek! 6

23 sizes Detailed Instructions Using MC and circular needle, CO 116 (120, 128, 132, 136, 144) stitches; pm, co 3 stitches for side seam, pm, CO 116 (120, 128, 132, 136, 144) stitches, pm, co 3 stitch for side seam, pm for end-of-round; join into round, being careful not to twist stitches. Round 1: * K1. (P2, k2) until one stitch remains before first marker, p2. K1. Slip marker, k1, p1, k1, slip marker. Repeat from * for garment back. Work as Round 1 for 17 rows more. Increase round: *K1. Working ribbing as set, increase 1 (3, 1, 1, 3, 1) sts evenly between marker just slipped and next marker. Slip marker, k1, p1, k1, slip marker. Repeat from * for garment back. 117 (123, 129, 133, 139, 145) stitches at front and back (not including side seam stitches). Begin colorwork pattern. The argyle-style pattern is intuituve and easy to memorize, but the full front and back of each size are charted for convenience in shaping within pattern. The front and back of the vest are separated by false seams of one purl stitch in contrast color, flanked by one main color knit stitch on either side. The vertical stripes formed by these 3 stitches will be maintained until armhole steeks are set all shaping will be done within the colorwork portions of the front and back immediately adjacent to the stripes. Work all decreases as directed on page 3 of this pattern - decreases on the right side of the chart should be worked with a k2tog; decreases on the left side of the chart should be worked with a ssk. Chart A shows the waist shaping of every size through round 66. Steek, arm and neck shaping beyond round 66 are shown on individual charts A44, A46, A48, A50, A52 and A54. Continue with the correct chart for your size beyond round 66. READ THROUGH THE PATTERN BEFORE BEGIN- NING! The nature of wholly circular knitting means a lot of things happen in the same row. Pay careful attention to the charted diagrams and the written instructions to stay on track. Round 1 (all sizes): Work row 1 of color chart A. Slip marker, k1 MC, p1 CC, k1 MC, slip marker. Work row 1 of color chart for garment back; slip marker, k1 MC, p1 CC, k1 MC, slip marker. Work 4 rounds more as set, following pattern. Round 5 (all sizes): Work as set, decreasing one stitch at either side of chart (4 sts decreased). Following color chart and keeping side seams as set, dec 1 st at either side of chart every 5th row 4 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2) times, and then every 6th row 3 (5, 5, 5, 5, 5) times. Work 8 (all sizes) rounds even as set, following color chart. Row 52 (54, 54, 54, 54, 54): Work as set, increasing one stitch at either side of chart (4 sts increased). Following color chart and keeping side seams as set, inc 1 st at either side of chart every 6th (6th, 6th, 7th, 7th, 7th) row 4 (4, 6, --, 2, 4) times more, and then every 5th (5th, 5th, 6th, 6th, 6th) row 3 (3, 1, 7, 5, 3) times. Work 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6) rounds even. AT THE SAME TIME, set neck steeks and work neck decreases as follows - Round 67 (69, 71, 73, 75, 77): Work to center 11 sttiches of front panel. Slip these11 stitches to scrap yarn. Using the long-tail method (treat the MC as the working yarn and the CC as the tail), CO 9 sts. Working side decreases as established and keeping side seams as set, decrease 1 stitch at either side of neck steek every 3rd row 9 (11, 17, 19, 21, 23) times, and then every 4th row 17 (16, 12, 11, 10, 9) times. Work the 9 cast-on stitches of the steek even throughout, following Chart B. Work 4 rounds even (all sizes). 13 (14, 13, 14, 14, 14) stitches remain at each shoulder. 7

24 sizes Set arm steeks **Continue to work front neck decreases and front neck steek as established** Round 96 (98, 100, 102, 104, 106): Work to last 11 (12, 13, 14, 10, 15, 16) stitches of round (this number includes 3 side seam stitches). Slip these stitches to a piece of scrap yarn, discarding markers. Slip the first 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) stitches of Round 97 (99, 101, 103, 105, 107) to scrap yarn. Using the long-tail method, CO 9 sts. Work across front to last 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) sts before side seam. Slip these stitches, 3 side seam stitches, and next 5 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) from back to a piece of scrap yarn, discarding markers. Using the long-tail method, CO 9 sts. Work across back. Following Chart B, work first 4 sts of steek; PM for end-of-round. Begin Armscye Shaping **Continue to work front neck decreases, front neck steek, and arm steeks as established.** Round 98 (100, 102, 104, 106, 108): Dec 1 st at either side of color chart A44 (A46, A48, A50, A52, A54). (4 sts decreased at armholes) Decrease one stitch at either side of color chart every row a total of 3 (2, 3, 2, 3, 3) times more, and then every other row 2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 4) times. Continue to work as established, decreasing at front neck as set. **Continue to work front neck decreases and arm steeks as established.** Set Back Neck Steek Round 158 (162, 166, 170, 174, 178): Work front as set. Work to center 49 (51, 55, 57, 59, 61) stitches of back; slip these 49 (51, 55, 57, 59, 61) stitches to scrap yarn. Using the long-tail method, CO 9 sts. If you haven t yet switched to DPNs or a two-circular technique, do so now to compensate for the rapidly diminishing circumference of the garment. Work across remaining back stitches to end of round. Start Back Neck Shaping **Continue to work front neck decreases and arm steeks as established.** Round 159 (163, 167, 171, 175, 179): Work front as set. Dec 1 st at either side of back neck steek, following color chart (2 sts decreased at back neck) Repeat round 159 (163, 167, 171, 175, 179) a total of 6 times more. 13 (14, 13, 14, 14, 14) stitches remain at each shoulder. AT THE SAME TIME, on the last body round, bind off center 7 stitches of arm, front, neck, and back neck steeks. Cut Steeks Break both yarns. Move live shoulder stitches, together with the adjacent MC stitch from the steeks on either side, to four seperate holders. 15 (16, 15, 16, 16, 16) stitches slipped to each holder. Secure and cut steeks as described on pages 5 and 6 of this pattern. Take a deep breath. Have a drink. Let your family back in the room. Join Shoulders Turn garment inside out. Join front and back shoulders to each other, either using a 3-needle bindoff or by grafting. Turn back to the right side. 8

25 sizes Apply Arm Bands **Pick up stitches through MC border stitch at edge of armhole** Using a short circular or DPNs and MC, pick up and knit 132 (136, 140, 144, 148, 152) sts evenly around armhole, incorporating stitches on holder at armpit; join into round. Work in k2, p2 rib for 7 rounds; bind off. Repeat for second armhole. Apply Neck Band **Pick up stitches through MC border stitch at edge of neckline** Using a circular needle and MC, pick up and knit 218 (224, 230, 236, 242, 248) sts evenly along neckline. Start at left corner of front neck, work up left front and down left back, incorporate held stitches at back center neck, work up right back and down right front. Do not incorporate stitches on holder at front center neck. Turn and work flat in k2, p2 rib for 15 rows; bind off. time and the chance of mildew (ew!). On a non-absorbent surface such as a blocking board (though you can make do by covering your usual blocking surface - spare room bed, couch - with a heavy garbage bag), pin the vest carefully to finished measurements, folding the cut flaps of the steeks under to the inside of the garment. You may have to be quite aggressive in pinning, since stranding makes even the most experienced knitter s work pucker (if ever so slightly). If your work looks less than perfect at this point, fear not - almost any gauge and tension inconsistency will dissapear with blocking and a flat, smooth surface will emerge. After the vest is completely dry, unpin and finish the steeks. Fold each steek flap under to the inside of the vest, and with a length of the crochet yarn and a sharp tapestry needle, tack the cut edge to the the body. Take care as you sew to make the facing lie flat and smooth, and that your stitches do not show on the right side. Weave in all ends. Overlap the two ends of the neckband. Sew the selvedge of each end flat to the held stitches at center neck, forming a squared-off V neck. Finishing Weave in all loose ends of garment body, but leave beginning and ending tails of crochet hanging. Soak the garment in lukewarm water with mild soap for 15 or 20 minutes, until the fabric is thoroughly saturated and the fibers have relaxes. Rinse carefully in a second basin of same-temperature water, and squeeze very gently to remove excess water. Do not wring or twist! Lay the garment flat on a thirsty towel, roll it up, and stand or lean on it to remove as much water as possible. The vest cannot, of course, be blocked in pieces, and the stranded Fair-Isle creates a double-thick fabric to each layer. The quadruple thickness means you will want to get out as much water as you possibly can before pinning, to reduce drying Questions and erratum: support@eunnyjang.com Ordering information: orders@eunnyjang,com General inquiries: eunny@eunnyjang.com This pattern is for personal, non-commercial use ONLY. All other uses require the prior permission of the author. Reproduction or distribution of this pattern without the express permisison of the author is strictly prohibited. This includes distribution of this work through electronic or print media. Printed copies of this pattern may be made for personal use, and may not be resold. Please help prevent copyright infringement. I trust you guys. 9

26 sizes CHART A CHART B KEY FOR ALL CHARTS = contrast color = main color 10

27 sizes CHART A44 11

28 sizes CHART A46 12

29 sizes CHART A48 13

30 sizes CHART A50 14

31 sizes CHART A52 15

32 sizes CHART A54 16