Willow Way LLC. 520 West Main St. Hagerstown IN

Transcription

1 Willow Way LLC 520 West Main St. Hagerstown IN

2 Important Notice!! Making bath bombs with a Press is completely different than making them by hand. The easiest way to master the Willow Press is to forget everything you know about making bath bombs. Why?.making BBs with a Press is going to compact much harder than anything you can use by hand. Oils, water, the feel of the mix, everything is different. Use the Suggested Starting Recipe first. (page 7) Allow yourself time to get familiar with the Press and how the material feels. Then and only then, should you proceed with your favorite recipe. For BathBomb How-To Videos, Go to... For Willow Way Stamper Instructions, see page 15 & 16 Table of Contents Important Notice and Index Page 2 Press Parts Diagram and Set-up Page 3 Round Tube Mold Set-up Pages 4-5 Setting Up Multiple and Sculpted Molds Page 6 Suggested Starting Recipe Page 7 Troubleshooting Pages 8-10 Mixing and Recipe Tips Page 11 Other Good Tips and Ideas Page 11 Willow Press Maintenance Page 12 How To Make Short Bath Bombs Page 12 Another Good Idea For Bath Bombs Page 12 Citric Acid and Baking Soda Information Page 13 Mixing Large Batches Page 14 Soap Stamper Instructions Page 15 Soap Stamper Instructions, continued Page 16 Example Custom Stamps & Bath Bomb Molds Page 17 Notes Pages Tech Support Contact Information Page 20 2

3 Press Parts Diagram and Set-up Plunger Assembly Post Plunger Lever and Handle Plunger Assembly Retainer Ring Plunger Assembly Release Tension Knob Bell Housing Mold Foot Mold Tube Guide Angles and Knobs Base Mounting Holes Back Fence and Knobs The Willow Press is extremely easy to use, just follow the instructions. When attaching a Mold Foot, pull the Handle all the way down to keep the Plunger from rotating. Screw the Mold Foot onto the Threaded Stud at the bottom of the Bell Housing. Be careful not to strip the threads, by insuring the Mold Foot is going on straight! Loosen the Tension Knob at the back of your Plunger Assembly, then by pressing and holding the Release Button, raise the Plunger Assembly to where the Mold Foot is just barely above the Mold. Let go of the Release Button and lift up slowly on the Plunger Assembly until it locks in to place, then retighten the Tension Knob. Loosen the two Black Knobs on the Black Fence. Use the Handle to lower the Mold Foot down into the Mold this will center your Mold. Now move the Black Fence up against the back of the Mold, using the groove to square it up, then retighten the Knobs. Do the same with the Guide Angles they will rest underneath the grooves along the left and right side of your Mold. You may have to tweak the Angles and Fence adjustments for a perfect fit. 3

4 Round Tube Mold Instructions See page 7 for the Suggested Starting Recipe and Mixing Methods. It is important to master the basics. Use the recipe in this book first, before experimenting on your own. The walk-through shown below can be used for all Round Tube Molds. Instructions for Multiple and Sculpted Mold set-up can be found on Page 6. First, you will need to know the names of some parts. The Mold Foot is what attaches to your Bell Housing. The Mold Bottom is kept inside the Mold Tube until you ve created your bath bomb. The De-Ringer is used for removing the excess ring (Saturn Ring) around your bath bomb. The Extractor is used to raise the Mold Bottom out from the Mold. The Foam Rubber Washer is used to keep tension, alignment, and to prevent over-tightening. This is not needed with the MiniBall Cylinder or Tablet molds. The Tamp Pad is used for the assistance of de-molding some Sculpted Molds. After insuring your Press and Mold are set-up, you are ready to experience the ease of creating bath bombs. Fill your material to the top of the Mold Tube, lightly pat it with your hand, and sweep what material may be around the outside edges back into your mixing bowl. Now, place the Mold Tube onto the Press Base and slide it in to position under the Mold Foot. Holding onto the Mold Tube, pull down on the Handle and press the Mold Foot firmly into the Mold Tube. With a few tapping motions, pull the handle up and down. Just raise 1/4 to 1/2 and then bring it down firmly. This quick tapping motion compacts the material without a lot of strain on yourself or the Press. It also jars the particles into a more compact form. The 1.75 MiniBall is the pictured Mold. 4

5 Note: LIFT SLOWLY WHEN RAISING THE PLUNGER* *The top half of the Mold, rising up, can cause a suction on the lower half which will try to rise with it. You do not want this. You want the air to balance as you raise the handle. Try lifting quickly a couple times and you will probably find that the ball will split in half at the junction of the Mold halves. This will give you an idea how fast you can raise the handle. Once you ve compacted your material, glance inside the tube to see if the top is full and rounded. If there is not quite enough material, you will see a flat spot right on top. Just sprinkle a little more material on top and tap the plunger up and down again a couple more times. Now, lift the Mold Tube and place it over the Extractor. Just push down through the hole at the bottom of your Mold Tube and it will raise up the Mold Bottom and your completed ball. If you wish to remove the ring around your bath bomb you may use the De-Ringer. Simply place the De-Ringer over the top of the bath bomb while holding the Mold bottom then twist back and forth. To de-mold, turn your Mold Bottom up-sidedown and the ball will fall out into your hand. If it sticks, lightly tap the side of the Mold Bottom with your finger or on the side of the Press. You re done. Place the bath bomb on a soft bed of foam, etc. to dry. Your bath bombs should be ready to go within a day or so. After you have made a few bath bombs, you will get a feel for how much you need to put into the Mold Tube for just the right amount. After a while, you won t even need to think about it. 5

6 Setting Up Multiple and Sculpted Molds: All molds shown below use the Foam Rubber Washer in between the Mold Foot and Bell Housing. This is to maintain tension, alignment, and to prevent over-tightening. The set-up for the Cherry Bomb and MicroBall are the same. Place Foam Rubber Washer and screw the Mold Foot onto Bell Housing. Place the Mold directly underneath the Mold Foot. Bring the Mold Foot down into the Mold to make perfect alignment. Adjust and tighten down the Black Fence and Guide Angles. Adjust the height so the Mold Foot just clears the Mold. To de-mold Cherry and Micros use same procedure as the MiniBall. You can also just turn the mold over and drop into your hand. To de-mold all other designs; turn up side down and tamp on the tamp pad. Place Foam Rubber Washer between the Bell Housing and Mold Foot. Use the grooves and Guide Angles to align your Mold. Star Bath Bomb Insure you have enough material in your Mold. The Mold Foot may stick in the Mold if you do not have enough material in it, we recommend overfilling a little to begin with. Deeper molds may require filling half-way, pressing with a couple fingers to compress the material at the bottom of the mold, then fill and finish pressing 6

7 Suggested Starting Recipe: Moisture content (oils and witch hazel) should be adjusted +/- until your mix passes the clump test (see below). Ingredients: 1 cup (US) or 250 ml Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate.) 1/2 cup (US) or 118 ml Citric Acid (Add last see below.) 2 tablespoons (30ml) Almond Oil (Can be mixed with Coconut oil, Sunflower, Jojoba, Cocoa Butter, etc.) All light oils affect release from Mold. 1 to 2 teaspoons (5ml to 9ml) Essential Oil or Fragrance Oil One teaspoon is usually enough. Color: Dry pigments seem to work best but watch how much you are adding. Oil soluble colorants also work. Witch Hazel: used separately and as needed for moistening material. The main thing is having just the right amount of moisture, and this may need to be adjusted as required based on your oils, humidity and the dryness of your powders. Mixing: Mix all dry ingredients together, except for the Citric Acid. Then mix all of the liquid ingredients. Once the liquid is mixed, slowly add to your dry ingredients while stirring. If your colorants are oil soluble mix it with your oils. If colorants are dry, mix in with your dry ingredients. Finally, add your Citric Acid and mix very, very well. Use a spritzer (fine spray bottle) with Witch Hazel to mist your batch as needed. See picture for how the mixture should compress. Mixing Methods: Your material should clump in your hand and stay clumped when dropped in the bowl. Do Not fill your molds until your mix passes the Clump Test. Adjust moisture as needed As your mix dries out, spritz again with witch hazel. Let it sit for a few minutes, then blend again. A 7-8 cup, Food Processer works great for one or two batches and keeps the dust down. A wire whisk is okay but will take longer and does not mix as thoroughly. You can also use a two beater hand mixer. For large batches a Pot Whipper in a bucket works great. (see page 14) After you get the hang of it, try mixing 3 or 4 batches. You ll be able to move through this pretty quickly without worrying about the mix drying up too soon. 7

8 Troubleshooting: The top four support issues in order of importance. 1. Use of Additives 2. Uncontrolled Moisture or Humidity 3. Changing more than one thing at a time. 4. Deep Molds; top half separating from bottom. Use of Additives: The tightest, finest-textured, hardest, fizziest, most shippable bath bombs, are just plain ole..citric aid, baking soda, scent, oil & witch hazel. Any dry ingredient other that Baking Soda and Citric Acid can ruin bath bomb production and bath bomb (BB) quality. Think about it; adding things like salt, cornstarch, Epsom salt or clay, is useless in the average tub full of water. 40 gallons of water and a teaspoon or two of what? The recommendation for Epsom Salts in the average tub of water is 2-3 cups, 2 1/2 being standard. There are 16 tablespoons in a cup. So ideally you need at least, 32 tablespoons of Epsom salts to really do your customer any good. What your customer may figure out; Here s an example of iffy marketing. How many people buy a chocolate bar thinking they are getting 100% milk chocolate?...i bet millions. They actually do get some 100% chocolate but the most of it is..other stuff. Do you want to be found wanting when your customer adds up how much they really are getting from therapeutic ingredients in your product? Here are some of the benefits they can get; true aromatherapy (EO s), moisturizing for the skin, a pleasing and refreshing aroma, fun & relaxation because it is more than just a bathtub full of water. Some Additives are like trying to mix oil and water to a bath bomb. Some powders simply do not bond well. If after using the Suggested Starting Recipe you decide to try adding other powders and have challenges, try reducing the amount used. The following have been found to detract from bonding and may cause cracking, splitting of round BBs, draw excess moisture and degrade faster on the shelf. They will not compact as well and will not ship as well. Epsom Salt, Cornstarch, Salt, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS). Here are some solutions: Put the powder in the center of the BB. If the ball or shape is large enough, add half the material, make a depression, then add a small amount of powder, fill rest of the way and press. Put the material on top in a dimple and cover with frosting, cocoa butter, etc. 8

9 Troubleshooting cont.: Uncontrolled Moisture and Humidity: Take this into consideration on your wait time after mixing. It will affect the amount of moisture you actually need. Fresh materials are very important with all dry ingredients. Make sure you have a reliable supplier. (see page 13 for some trusted suppliers) Keep everything sealed super tight. Storing your ingredients is very important (See Page 13 for tips on storing materials) We suggest not making BBs when it is raining or with open windows on a humid day. If you are in an area that is very humid or it rains frequently, set up a room with a de-humidifier. Test and note results for everything especially liquid. One squirt from your bottle may be too many or not enough. It sounds excessive but once you have it down pat, the rest is a no brainer. Changing more than one thing at a time: Things were going along just fine but!!..something went wrong and now you can t make a good BB to save your life. Or, now they are cracking and you haven t got a clue. There is a clue; it is...look for what changed. Did you change suppliers, ingredients, methods? Get in the habit of checking the temperature and humidity. Make notes. Your answer is in the change, whether it is method, condition of the equipment or environment. Change One Thing at a Time!! This is a time honored axiom for anyone who is in the business of fixing problems. No matter if it is computer, autos, or bath bombs...follow this rule in troubleshooting. Bath bomb is not Releasing from the Mold and/ or is breaking up: Are you using oil? If not, this can cause all kinds of issues. If you are using oil, is the type of oil heavy enough to lubricate the Mold? Problems with Cracking: Some people swear by Kaolin Clay and use it to prevent cracking. If you use the Suggested Starting Recipe you will not need it. Drying too fast can cause cracking. Check on how your bath bombs are drying on the inside to determine if you are compacting it enough or need to loosen it up. This requires breaking some open at different times and noting the condition. If you experience cracking, you may find that they are too tightly compressed or you have bad Citric Acid or Baking Soda. Keep your work space clean: This causes all sorts of problems Prevents the Mold from seating into the Fence and/ or Guide Angles Build up of material causes undo wear on Molds, plastic surfaces, metal parts and will greatly affect your production efficiency. Deep molds like Cupcakes, Flower Pots, etc. are not releasing well from mold. Top half separates due to poor compression and bond. This is generally caused by the bottom half not getting fully compressed. Fill halfway, press with a couple fingers, then fill full and finish pressing. 9

10 Troubleshooting cont.: Miscellaneous Troubleshooting: Bath bomb spheres splitting in half: This can be caused by too wet a mixture or too dry a mixture. Take notes as you work to find the ideal amount of moisture to add. Try waiting about 4 seconds before raising the Mold Foot. This gives time for the materials to bind together, like gluing two things together. You might also try filling about half full, pressing down in the center with your hand to pre-pack, then fill the rest of the way. Try raising the Mold Foot more slowly. As the Mold Foot rises it creates suction on the Mold Bottom. The air must balance. We added grooves and holes to compensate for air flow but sometimes this is not enough. Bath bomb sphere soft on Top: Probably from just not getting enough material in the Mold. Try pumping the Mold Foot up and down a couple of times. Sometimes this will jar the mixture enough to make it tighten it up. Mixing and Recipe Tips: Use a Cuisinart, a food processor, or a hand or electric mixer to mix your bath bomb mixture. Blend all very, very well, as instructed. A good test to see if your mixture is ready, is to squeeze the mixture with your hand. When it just barely clumps together it is ready or very close to being ready to use. Remember the Clump Test on Page 7. Find that perfect mixture! If you are using a hand or electric mixer, you might want to spritz your oils in the Suggested Starting Recipe. It will help keep the dust down. Let the mix set a few minutes then mix again. This seems to help for stability and release. You can have one batch setting while working on the other. Be careful with your Witch Hazel that you do not over-spritz your mixture. You want your mixture to be just past dry but not wet, so that when you press you fingers into it, it will leave a slight impression. Your oil is important for release so be careful if cutting it. Oils like coconut and light oils may need the addition of a little jojoba, almond, or a thicker oil to lubricate the release. If your mixture seems too dry, spritz it with Witch Hazel and let it sit for a few moments before feeling the mixture for texture and before spritzing again. If you need to re-press the mold for whatever reason. One way to return the mixture to its fine condition is to use a hand pastry cutter, just chop it all back up and re-press. Be sure when using this procedure to weigh everything. Do not trust volume measurements. This will take some trial and error. Coloring: You can use food coloring but it will fade. It s okay for testing. See the ingredients in the Suggested Starting Recipe for other options. You might try for colorants. 10

11 Production Tips: Once proficient at making BBs with your Press, you can start making multiple batches, including Baking Soda, all liquids, less the Citric Acid. These can be stored for several hours, ready to use when needed. Citric Acid is added last, just prior to making the BBs. The mix can be stored in a 5 gallon bucket with a piece of plastic cut round and tucked down on top of the mixture. Start with a few batches, testing time and workability of the mixture, then work up, taking notes at every change. Example of a 4 x Suggested Recipe Batch: This is how to use the large batch method. Eventually you can do half a days production this way. The following is an example of a simple formula grams Baking Soda 60 grams Olive Oil 8 grams of FO or EO 12 grams Witch Hazel 580 grams Citric Acid Food color was not used here. If liquid, allow for that amount. (Note: some EO/FOs are more watery so compensate.) Note: Remember humidity will affect the liquid content. Other Good Tips and Ideas: Drying bath bombs: For drying, you can lay the bath bombs on foam, soft paper, towels, old blankets, etc. That egg crate foam for bedding works great. For drying lots of bath bombs, use our Vented Drying Trays for real space saving and faster drying. You can place foam or padding right in the tray. You can use a de-humidifier in a small room. Just remember to watch drying too fast. Take notes of the humidity. Get a humidistat to tell you what the rooms conditions are. Take notes. Decoration: Some like to leave the Saturn Ring on the bath bomb spheres by adding a little extra material. This does save time De-ringing. When you want that embedded look on top with salt, flower petals, etc., put the material in the Mold Bottom, fill about half way, press down with a couple fingers, then fill the rest of the way. When you de-mold, turn upside-down into your hand. You can sprinkle salt on top, dribble chocolate over them. There are numerous things you can do to decorate. (see bottom of page 8) Packaging: One idea is to use shrink-wrap bags. Just drop in your bath bomb and seal the opening. If you prefer you can heat shrink it tightly. PVC shrink wrap will help seal out moisture that will cause your product to break down, before it s time. Another idea is to wrap in cello paper and tie with a pretty ribbon or wrap in colored tissue paper and tie. Our Shrink Wrap, Wand Systems can be used to package your bath bombs. Go to. 11

12 Other Good Tips and Ideas, cont.: Another Good Idea: Vapor Bath Bomb Tablets for chest colds and flu-like symptoms. Typically, they are used in the shower and have Eucalyptus Peppermint, etc., Essential Oils in them kind of like using these oils in a vaporizer. No other oils are in them since they are used in the shower. We can make special Molds for these tablets. Mixing Large Batches: One way to make large batches is to use our Pot Whipper and a Bucket (5 or 6 gallon.) What you ll need Pot Whipper* Standard variable speed or contractors drill 5 or 6 gallon bucket with lid Box knife Bath bomb material Heavy spray bottle** Here s How: Cut a slot in the bucket lid about 1/2 (13mm) wide, starting from the edge of the lid (including the edge of the lid) to the middle. A sharp razor blade knife (box knife) will work. A Saber saw, band saw, etc. will also work. To make removing the lid easier you can slit the edge of the lid every 2 (50mm) or so. Now put your first ingredients (Baking Soda, etc.) into the bucket. Stick your Pot Whipper in the bucket, slide the lid on and lightly snap the lid down. Start dribbling in your liquids while running the drill on low speed. After all your liquids are in, run up the speed, mixing thoroughly. Note: You can hold this mixture for quite a while in this state, allowing you to pre-make several hours worth of work ahead of time; adding the Citric Acid later. Remove lid and add the Citric Acid. Then put the lid back on and mix again. With larger batches you should use a spray nozzle that dispenses a heavy spray. Determine how many squirts it will take to moisten your batch. You may know from making smaller batches. It might take a little longer the first few batches, but try counting then mixing. For example; put in 10 squirts, mix, then take the lid off and check it. Keep repeating this until you have found just the right combination. Better yet, figure out how many grams you need per large batch. After several batches you will have it perfect. Find the pictured equipment on our Tools & Accessories page. soapequipment.com/accessories/ 12

13 Citric Acid and Baking Soda Information: Use only fine ground, food-grade Citric Acid. Coarse grain Citric Acid will not always bind properly. Do not use technical grade. It is generally too coarse. Inferior Citric Acid is the number two cause of failed Bath Bombs. Moisture is number one. Citric Acid is most affected by moisture. All Baking Soda is not created equally. Commercial grades are usually drier and bind better. Here are some trusted suppliers: Essential Depot, FL Camden Grey, FL Adeline Chemicals, CA Unilever- BASF- Unilever and BASF are both worldwide. Whomever you buy from test the materials before buying a lot of it. It is imperative that your dry ingredients are kept dry: If you purchase your powders in large quantities such as 50 lb bags, plan on using it as soon as possible after opening. If you will be transferring the dry materials to other containers: Your plastic containers should be filled all the way up except the one you will work with first. Cut a round piece of drop-cloth plastic to fit inside and press down on the material. We suggest 2 or 3 gallon (7.5L - 11L) plastic pails. A 2 gallon (7.5L) plastic pail will hold about 14 pounds (6.4kg) of Citric Acid. 5 gallon buckets work okay if using quickly. Cut a round piece of dropcloth plastic to fit inside and press down on the material. A source for plastic pails is: Dehumidified room: This could be your storage and your drying room. Using a Desiccant or Desiccant Packs: The use of a desiccant pack will aid in keeping your ingredients dry and can save you a lot of frustration trying to figure out what went wrong. A source of desiccant packs is: For even more control, you can find online companies that sell desiccant packs with indicators when they are used up. Store desiccant in air tight containers until you use them. You can reuse desiccant packs. Place them on a metal cookie sheet, then put them in the oven with the temperature at about 250 F (121 C) for about two hours. A dehydrator works great too. Small quantities can be placed in tight snap lid containers, heavy Zip-Loc bags, etc. Mark your ingredients with the date and use as soon as possible. 13

14 Press Maintenance: There is always the possibility that something will loosen up. Kind of like checking the oil in your car. When something gets loose; you want to tighten it up, don t leave it loose as this will eventually wear other parts. Lubrication: You have received a small tube of Silicone Grease. Occasionally, you may need to grease the movable parts when the lever is pulled down [small slot immediately below dome of red housing as shown in picture to the left]. When you run out, you can purchase some at the local lumberyard or hardware store. Ask for Silicone Grease. In a pinch, Vaseline or grease will work. You lost the Nut for the Tension Knob. If you turned the Red Tension Knob too far, you probably heard a click where the nut dropped to the bottom of the Plunger Assembly Post. Take off the Red Cap on top of the Plunger Assembly Post and slide the Plunger Assembly off the Post. Turn the Plunger Assembly Post upside down to remove the Nut. Holding the Plunger Assembly with the hole for the Tension Knob facing you, insert the Nut into the assembly holding it in place with your finger while inserting the Tension Knob from the top. Turn the knob about 3 to 4 turns while still holding the weld nut to make sure it has several threads started in the weld nut. Press in the black release buttons on the side of the assembly to slide it back onto the post and then replace red cap. Once this has been done, you will need to turn the knob until you feel it start to tighten against the post. You are now ready set up your mold and make bath bombs again. How To Make Short Bath Bombs: (This works for the Tablet, Cylinder and Cuber Molds only) To make shorter Bath Bombs, less than the standard set-up allows, use the following method. Set-up is the same but after you place the Mold back under the foot to press your material, raise the Mold up and slip a spacer (of wood or plastic) under it (giving you the correct height for your finished bath bomb.) Alternatively you could have a spacer to fit down in the Mold. Regulate the amount of mixture exactly. Then by placing the Mold on a spacer, you will create an exact height each time. An easy way to measure and fill is to use a measuring cup 1/4, 1/3, etc., and a large opening funnel. You can also cut down the length of a funnel, to enlarge the opening. This may take a little trial and error but after you get everything worked out, making shortened Bath Bombs this way will be nearly as fast as the standard way. 14

15 Willow Way Stamper Instructions You will find setting up your Soap Stamper is a breeze and very easy to use and understand. Please refer to Page 2 for proper Part Names. To get started; slide the supplied rubber washer onto the Threaded Stud extending out of the bottom of the Bell Housing. This washer allows you to square up your stamp to the soap bar and to keep it from turning. Next, pull down on the Plunger Lever and screw on your stamp. Always pull down on the Plunger Lever. This prevents possible damage to the Plunger Assembly. Place a bar of soap on the stamper base. This gives you something to go by for height. Do not worry about adjusting the Guide Fence yet. You can now adjust the height of your stamp. Loosen the Tension Knob on the back of the Plunger Assembly Post. Push in the Black Button on the Plunger Assembly to release the assembly. Slide the Plunger Assembly up or down until it is at depth you want the stamp. After a couple slight adjustments, you will have the proper depth. After the depth is set, push up on the Plunger Assembly to take out any play upward, then tighten the Tension Knob. You can now line up your Back Fence and Guide Angle so that when you place your bar against both guides, it is exactly where you want it for stamping your impression. Use only one Guide Angle. This is much faster for movement in and out of the soap bar. You can place the Guide Angle on the Left or Right. The Back Fence is held in place by black knobs and the Side Fence is held in place by a small red knob. This slides back and forth in its respective slots. Keep the Guide Angle tight against the Back Fence when securing. 15

16 Stamper Instructions, cont. When To Stamp: Cut your bars evenly, with as flat a surface as possible. An uneven surface will not work well. It can also transfer uneven pressure to your plunger assembly and slide mechanism and can damage it. Normally your soap should < breathe > for a day or two after cutting and before stamping it. However, you may find, some recipes can be stamped within hours. You want your soap to be soft enough that it takes the impression well, but dry enough that the stamp releases easily. When to stamp depends on your recipe, climate, humidity, etc. Generally stamping your soap within the first week after cutting is best. You can vary your recipe and the liquid used for more control. Whatever you do change one thing at a time. With a little practice, you will soon find the optimum time for stamping bars. Do not stamp cured soap. If you discount water, use salt or additives and oils that make an exceptionally hard bar quickly out of the mold, you must stamp right away or you may damage your Stamper. Practice at first on a scrap piece of soap. Note how much pressure is needed, how much drying time there was, etc. Take notes the first few batches and fine-tune your procedure. Tips: If your stamp is sticking or if you are trying to hurry things along; try using a damp sponge or blotter and just bump your stamp with this and then stamp. You probably will not need to do this but if you run into a difficult or sticky batch of soap, it may make the difference between a poor impression and great impression. There are two ways to set depth of impression. One is by using the stamp itself as a stop. Once the actual engraving has bottomed out, the back of the stamp stops the travel. This is the most common method used. The other is to set depth by using the Plunger Assembly adjustment and Tension Knob so the Plunger stops at a specific depth. Stamping Bath Bombs: Use the instructions for your particular bath bomb mold for the setup. The Foot of your bath bomb will also be your stamp. Depth is based on how the amount of material and pressure applied. For additional information, go to the Stamper page on our website. 16

17 Examples of Custom Bath Bombs and Custom Stamps that we have made. Custom Bath Bomb Stamps are limited to the Cylinder and Cuber Molds. For additional information see... For information on what is required to make a Custom Soap Stamp Go to our Stamper page. 17

18 Some of our stock sculpted molds. CD is used for size comparison, it is not included with Press or Mold. 18

19 Notes 19

20 Essential Oil Safety Guidelines: Essential oils are very powerful substances that should be treated with much respect. Most are for external use only. A drop of essential oil is equal to one ounce of plant material. Good ventilation is very important! Fragrance Oil Information: Not all fragrance oils (FO s) are created equal. What may work well from one supplier might dramatically differ from another supplier s oil. FO s are a mix of synthetics that may try to mimic a scent in nature or have an entirely, individualized scent. Good ventilation is very important! Willow Way.for all of your Soap Making and Body Care manufacturing needs. See us at Before calling support.. Try our How-To Videos For Technical Support. Please first if possible and spell out in detail the difficulty. Pictures always help. tech@soapequipment.com. (765) Let us custom design your system today! We have extensive experience in all aspects of CP, M&P, Liquid and HP Soap, Toiletries, Packaging and Marketing. We can help you improve your efficiency and sales. Copyright 1996 Willow Way, LLC. All rights reserved Worldwide 20