Hinge Mortising Jig. One of the make it or break it parts of building a. 6 ShopNotes No. 74
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1 Hinge Mortising Jig A Mortise for a Hinge. Quick, clean, and accurate that s the only way to describe the mortise you get with a trim router and this hinge mortising jig. One of the make it or break it parts of building a project comes when you install hardware, especially hinges. A poorly fit hinge not only looks bad, but it can affect how well a door or lid opens and closes. The hinge mortising jig you see above takes the hassle out of cutting a mortise for a hinge and just about makes it automatic. Worried about sizing the mortise to match the hinge? Don t. Simply use the hinge to set the jig for a perfect fit. And with the adjustability designed into the jig, you ll be able to handle hinges as small as 3 / 4", or as large as 3 1 / 8". Trim Router One thing you ll notice in the photo is the trim router used to rout the mortise. A trim router is most often used for working with laminate, but there are a few benefits to using one with this hinge mortising jig. For starters, the jig can be smaller since it doesn t have to support a large router base. Plus, the small, compact size makes it easy to use with one hand. And finally, it s quite a bit less noisy than a full-size router. Online Video One last thing. If you d like to see how easy it is to use the mortising jig to rout a mortise, check out our new video by visiting 6 ShopNotes No. 74
2 If you d like to see the hinge mortising jig in use, you can view a demonstration video by logging on to: Hardware & Materials A Small Base (1) 2 11 / 16 x 5 7 / 16-1 / 2 Ply. B Main Base (1) 7 1 / 2 x 11-1 / 2 Ply. C Back Stop (1) 2 3 / 4 x 11-1 / 2 Ply. D Fence (1) 3 / 4 x 2 3 / / 2 E Baseplate (1) 4 x 4-1 / 4 Plexiglas (4) (2) (3) (3) (3) #6 x 1 / 2" Fh Woodscrews 1 / 4" x 1" / 2" Aluminum Bars 1 / 4" Threaded Brass Inserts 1 / 4" x 1" Round Studded Knobs 1 / 4" Flat Washers Face Mortise. With the hinge mortising jig, you can rout a mortise in the face of a workpiece just as easily as the edge. No. 74 ShopNotes 7
3 JIGS & ACCESSORIES Two-Part Base, Stop, & Fence 1 OVERVIEW a. b. { Countersink. Drill a deep countersink to ensure the screw head is below the surface of the bar. To get a tight-fitting mortise, you need to control two things the width and length of the mortise. To do this, the mortising jig consists of a two-part base, an adjustable stop, and a pair of aluminum guide bars. An overview of how these parts fit together is illustrated in Figure 1. 2 FIGURE Start With One Piece As you can see in the drawing, the aluminum guide bars fit into dadoes and rabbets cut in the base parts and the adjustable stop. Instead of working with each part individually as I cut the dadoes and rabbets, I found it easiest to start with a single blank and then cut it into separate pieces once the joinery was complete, as in Figure 2. Working with a larger piece is easier and safer and it pretty much guarantees that the dadoes and rabbets will align perfectly with each other. The first thing I did was cut a single groove in the bottom of the blank. This groove is sized to match the thickness of the fence ( 3 / 4") that s added later, like you see in Figure 5. Once the groove was complete, I cut the dadoes you see in Step 1 of Figure 2. These two dadoes are cut in the top of the blank and sized to fit the aluminum bars that act as guides for the base of the trim router. The only thing to keep in mind here is to be sure to cut the dadoes at least half the thickness of the bar, as shown in Figure 1b. A hair deeper is fine, but if they re too shallow the back stop on the jig won t rest against the base during use. Finally, to allow you to lock the base pieces and back stop in place, you ll need to cut a series of slots and holes for the adjusting knobs and an insert. You can see where these are located in Step 1 of Figure 2. Cut the Base Apart Now you re ready to do what I talked about earlier start cutting the main parts of the jig from the blank. 8 ShopNotes No. 74
4 JIGS & ACCESSORIES The first step is to form the small base (A). I did this by making a pair of intersecting cuts on the band saw. Doing this on the band saw allows you to leave your table saw and dado blade set up. This way, you can easily go back and cut the wide rabbet on the leg of the blank. You can see all this clearly in Step 2 of Figure 2 and in Figure 4. Form the Main Base & Stop All that s left to do at this point is trim a narrow strip off the back of the blank to form the main base (B) and back stop (C). Once that s complete, cut the aluminum guide bars to length and screw one to the back stop and the other to the small base, like you see illustrated in Figure 1. To see how the construction process resulted in perfectly matched dadoes and rabbets, just flip the back stop over and set it in place. Make the Fence With the main part of the jig assembled, you re ready to start on the fence. The fence references the jig against the workpiece and provides a way to clamp the jig in place. The fence (D) is just a piece of 3 / 4"-thick hardwood that fits the groove cut in the bottom of the base. Install the Inserts After cutting the fence to final size, all that s 5 FIGURE 3 4 left to do is add the rest of the hardware. A threaded insert at each end of the fence accepts the studded knobs that allow you to clamp the base pieces in place once you set the jig for the length of the mortise, like you see in Figure 5a. The Shop Tip below shows a handy way to install the inserts perfectly straight. This method requires nothing more than a cut-off bolt and a couple hex nuts. Just be sure to turn the chuck by hand as you press it down with the drill press lever. Finally, don t forget to install a threaded insert in the main base. Note: Depending on how thick your plywood actually is, you may have to file or sand the insert flush with the bottom face of the base. Shop Tip a. { Installing Inserts. A quick and easy way to install an insert perfectly straight is to use a cut-off bolt, a pair of hex nuts, and a drill press. No. 74 9
5 JIGS & ACCESSORIES Final Details Although the basic construction of the jig is complete, there are still a few things left to do before you can use it to rout a mortise for a hinge. Add an Auxiliary Plate The first thing you ll want to do is add an auxiliary baseplate to your trim router, like the one you see in the photo. The auxiliary baseplate serves two purposes. First, using a square piece of clear plastic for the baseplate provides better visibility and more support during use. And second, it limits where the router bit cuts to match the hinge you re installing. You can see how I added the baseplate by looking at Figure 6. Create a Custom Fit As I mentioned earlier, the jig will automatically take care of sizing the mortise to match the width and length of the hinge. But to do this, you first have to custom fit the opening for 6 FIGURE New Baseplate. To improve accuracy and visibility, replace the round baseplate with a square piece of clear plastic. your baseplate and the router bit you ll be using to rout the mortises. Note: The jig is designed to be used with a 1 / 4"-dia. straight bit. This will allow you to rout a mortise for a hinge as small as 3 / 4" long. Start by sliding the two base pieces all the way open. And then slide the stop to the back. Next, you ll need to cut past the bottom face of each base. After adjusting the depth of cut to 5 / 8", rout clockwise around the inside of the jig, keeping the baseplate against the guides and stop (Figure 7). Zeroing Out the Stop The last step is to zero out the stop so 7 you can easily set the width of the mortise. To do this, clamp a scrap against the inside face of the fence and adjust the stop so the cutting edge of the router bit is just touching the scrap when the back edge of the baseplate is against the stop, as illustrated in Figure 8a. After you lock the back stop in place, use a scratch awl to scribe a mark on the top of the aluminum bar. You can see this in Figure 8. Using the Jig With the scribe mark in place, using the jig is just a matter of following the four-step process on the opposite page. 8 a. 10 ShopNotes No. 74
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10 JIGS & ACCESSORIES { Flush Trim Bit. A flush trim bit makes it a snap to trim edging perfectly even with a piece of plywood. Flush Trim Jig A hand-held router and a flush trim bit will make quick work of trimming the hardwood edging flush on a plywood panel if you can keep the router steady. The problem is the edge of a panel just isn t much to balance the router on. This makes it very easy to tip the router and gouge the wood. But with the flush trim jig shown in the photo at right, trimming the edging flush is almost automatic. After clamping the workpiece in a bench vise, you simply run the router along the edge without feeling like a tightrope walker. The Jig As you can see in Figure 1, the router is attached to an auxiliary base that replaces the standard base on the router. Adding a vertical guide and guide support stabilizes the router and keeps the bit perpendicular to the edging at the same time. A handle attached to the jig provides solid control. To make the auxiliary base, I used my existing router base as a template for marking the mounting holes. It s a good idea to drill and counterbore these holes a little oversize (Figure 1a). This way, you can shift the router on the base when you need to fine tune the jig later on. Both the guide and the guide support are the same width. But the guide is 1 1 / 2" shorter than the support. This way, as you glue the two parts together, it forms a step for bit clearance, as you can see in the inset photo at right. Before attaching the auxiliary base, you can cut the handle to shape from 3 / 4"-thick stock and screw it to the guide support (Figure 1b). Assembly When attaching the guides to the auxiliary base, it s important to align the inside face of the guide with the bearing on the bit. This way, the guide can do its job of stabilizing the router and the bit can do its job of trimming the edging flush. To do this, mount the router to the base and set the guide assembly in place. Then use a square to align 1 a. 2 the guide with the bearing as closely as possible and draw a line to mark the location (Figures 2 and 2a). After removing the router from the base, you ll need to turn the jig over to drill the pilot holes for the screws. To help keep the base from shifting out of place as you do this, attach a piece of carpet tape to the base. Then use the pencil mark on the base to realign the guide (Figure 3). Finally, remove the carpet tape and attach the guide to the base (Figure 4). DRILL 1!/4" -DIA. CLEARANCE HOLE FOR BIT BASE AUXILIARY BASE (5#/4" x 5 #/4" -!/4" H dbd. ) C L!/4"-DEEP COUNTER- BORE #8 x 1!/2" Fh WOODSCREW 3!/2" HANDLE 6" 2#/4" GUIDE SUPPORT (5#/4" x 7") #8 x 2!/4" Fh GUIDE WOODSCREW (5#/4" x 5!/2") NOTE: GUIDE, GUIDE SUPPORT, AND HANDLE ARE MADE FROM #/4"-THICK STOCK NOTE: DRILL OVERSIZED HOLES IN BASE FOR ADJUSTMENT b. HANDLE FLUSH WITH TOP OF GUIDE SUPPORT CHAMFER EDGES OF HANDLE FIRST: ALIGN GUIDE FACE FLUSH WITH BEARING USE SQUARE TO ALIGN BEARING WITH GUIDE a. SECOND: MARK LOCATION ON BASE HANDLE ShopNotes No. 56
11 JIGS & ACCESSORIES Test Cut After screwing the router back on the base, it s a good idea to make a test cut on some edging attached to a scrap piece. Simply run the router along the face of the scrap and check the results. If the edging isn t trimmed flush with the plywood, you ll need to adjust the position of the router. To do this, loosen the mounting screws and shift the router as needed. 3 ALIGN GUIDE SUPPORT WITH MARK ON BASE NOTE: REMOVE BASE FROM ROUTER CARPET TAPE 4 #8 x 1" Fh WOODSCREW CLAMP AND DRILL COUNTERSUNK SHANK HOLES SCREW BASE TO HANDLE AND GUIDE SUPPORT Circle-Cutting Jig { Straight Bit. A straight bit is a great choice for the heavy-duty work of routing a circle from a workpiece. This is the last circle-cutting jig you ll ever need to make. (See photo at right.) It s easy to build, inexpensive, and can be set just as quickly as the rip fence on a table saw. The secret is the arm it s an aluminum ruler that I picked up at a hardware store. As you can see in the Exploded View on the opposite page, this jig consists of three main parts: a base for the router, an aluminum ruler that acts as a pivot arm, and an adjustable pivot block that determines the size of the circle. Base I started on the jig by making the paddle-shaped base shown in the Base Layout drawing on the opposite page. When mounting the router, the idea is to center it about 6" from the end of the base. And this isn t hard to do. The router s base is a ready-made template for laying out the shape of the base and then marking and drilling the holes. Blocks After cutting the base to final shape, you can turn your attention to a pair of hardwood blocks. One block attaches to the base and allows you to mount the ruler. The other one will become the pivot block that s used to determine the size of the circle you cut. Since both blocks are the same size (and small), cutting a groove down the center to accept the ruler could be a challenge. To do this safely, it s best to start with an extra-long workpiece. Just make sure the depth of the groove is slightly less ( 1 / 32") than the thickness of the ruler. Once the groove is complete, you can cut two blocks from the blank. Then glue one block to the base flush with the back edge. (See Side View on opposite page.) Pivot Block To create the pivot block, the second block is glued to a 1 / 4" hardboard spacer. The spacer raises the pivot block to match the height of the block on the base. The next step is to drill three holes down the center of the pivot block. The outside holes are used to attach a hairline indicator (added later). The center hole is for the pivot pin. This pin is just a cutoff bolt that s glued in place with epoxy. Indicator The key to this jig is the hairline indicator that s added to the pivot block. This indicator accomplishes two things. First, it allows you to lock the ruler securely to the pivot block. (See End View.) And second, you can accurately set the radius of the circle by aligning the hairline over the ruler. (See Top View.) After cutting the indicator to size, drill a pair of holes to match the outside holes in the pivot block. Then scribe a hairline on the indicator so it lines up directly over the pivot pin. Assembly Now you re ready to attach the ruler to the mounting block on the base. But first, you ll need to install the router bit you re going to use for cutting the circles. I like to use a 1 / 2"-dia. straight bit (see margin) but the important thing is that you always use the same diameter bit. ShopNotes No. 56
12 JIGS & ACCESSORIES PIVOT ARM (48"-LONG ALUMINUM RULER)!/4"-20 KNOB FENDER WASHER INDICATOR (!/8" PLEXIGLAS) EXPLODED VIEW #8 x #/4" Rh WOODSCREW TOP VIEW PIVOT ARM INDICATOR NOTE: CUT GROOVE SLIGHTLY LESS THAN THICKNESS OF RULER RULER CUTOFF PIVOT BLOCK (4" x 2") SPACER (4" x 2")!/4" x 1!/2" MACHINE SCREW MOUNTING BLOCK (4" x 2") PIVOT PIN BASE (SEE BASE LAYOUT FOR SIZING) SCRIBED LINE 2" 8" 4" PIVOT PIN (!/4" HEX HEAD BOLT WITH HEAD CUT OFF) BASE LAYOUT 6" 4" 4" #8 x 1" Fh WOODSCREW END VIEW (PIVOT BLOCK) RULER MOUNTING HOLE FOR ROUTER SIDE VIEW POSITION RULER TO MATCH DIMENSION A" PIVOT ARM NOTE: PIVOT BLOCK AND MOUNTING BLOCK ARE MADE FROM #/4"-THICK STOCK; BASE AND SPACER ARE!/4" HARDBOARD 2" 1" OPENING FOR ROUTER BIT 10" 4" PIVOT BLOCK #/8" PIVOT PIN SPACER MOUNTING BLOCK A" Now to find out where to attach the ruler, measure from the cutting edge of the bit to the back edge of the base (Dimension A" in Side View.) (In my case, with a 1 / 2" bit, this was 5 3 / 4".) To allow you to use the ruler to set 1 WASTE a. the radius, position it so that dimension A" aligns with the back edge of the mounting block. Then screw the ruler in place. Note: The part of the ruler that sticks past the edge of the mounting block needs to be cut off. PIVOT BLOCK NOTE: ROUT CIRCLE WITH!/4"-DEEP PASSES BACKSIDE OF WORKPIECE WASTE b. NOTE: ROUT CIRCLE OVER EDGE OF WORK- BENCH Using the Jig Now that you have the jig complete, you re ready to start routing circles. But you ll want to keep one thing in mind. Since you need a shallow 1 / 4"-dia. hole for the pivot pin, it s important to drill this hole in the back side of the workpiece (Figure 1a). The next step is to slide the pivot block along the ruler and set it to match the desired radius of the circle you want to cut. Then lock the pivot block in place. At this point you could set the router bit for a full depth cut. But I ve found it s best to make a shallow ( 1 / 4") pass and work my way through the workpiece in multiple passes. Now, slip the pivot pin in the hole in the workpiece and raise the router off the workpiece. Then turn the router on and slowly lower it to the workpiece (Figure 1b). Finally, rout in a counterclockwise direction. No. 56 ShopNotes
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