Welcome To The SewingCourse.com

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Welcome To The SewingCourse.com Exercise 6 - Fabrics & Trimmings. Fabrics are made from fibres and they are divided into two categories. Natural and manmade.

1 Welcome To The SewingCourse.com Exercise 6 - Fabrics & Trimmings. Fabrics are made from fibres and they are divided into two categories. Natural and manmade. The naturals, which are Cotton, Silk, Linen and Wool. These fabrics are made either plants or animals. Synthetic or manmade are fibres such as acrylic, polyester and nylon. Fabrics made from 100% natural fibres are generally more comfortable, more durable and more absorbent than those made from 100% synthetics. Natural fibres are easier to handle during sewing and generally ripple and pucker less and if they do occur, they can be erased with the gentle touch of the steam iron. On the other hand, synthetic fibres are usually much easier to care for, a particularly important factor for active sportswear and children s play clothes. Most can be either hand or machine washed. Usually they are wrinkle resistant and once sewn the garment rarely has to be pressed between cleanings. However, during sewing this same characteristic sometimes makes it difficult to get manmade synthetics to hold a crease or retain a sharp edge. You can t rely on a steam iron to do all of the work, instead you can use a topstitching or edge stitching to hold the edges flat. Fabric fact chart

2 Fibre Name Natural Fibres Cotton Linen Silk Wool Synthetic fibres Common fabric types Batiste, broadcloth, corduroy, denim, flannel, seersucker, sheeting, terry, velveteen. Damask, handkerchief, lawn, Broadcloth, chiffon, crepe-de-chine, linen, organza, raw silk, satin Challis, crepe, flannel, gabardine, jersey, Melton, tweed Advantages Disadvantages Typical care Absorbent, cool, strong Wrinkles and shrinks unless treated Machine wash, tumbledry, can be bleached, iron while damp Absorbent, cool, strong Wrinkles, shrinks Dry clean to retain crispness, or wash to soften. Linen is prone to shrinkage Absorbent, warm, lustrous, drapes beautifully Absorbent, warm, flame and wrinkle resistant, good insulation Weakened by sunlight and perspiration Shrinks, attracts moths, knits tend to stretch during wear Dry clean although some can be hand washed, iron on the wrong side at a low temperature Dry clean although some can be machine washed, press with a steam iron and a press cloth on the right side Acetate Satin, silk-like fabrics, taffeta, twill Silk-like lustre, drapes well, dries quickly, low cost Fades, relatively weak, exhibits static cling, wrinkles Dry clean or gently machine wash, tumble dry (low), iron low temperature Acrylic Double knits, fleece, pile fabrics, wool-like-fabrics Warm, resists wrinkles, mildew, moths and oily stains Sensitive to heat, has static cling machine wash, tumble dry, needs no ironing Nylon Net, tricot, two-way stretch knits, swimwear, wet-look cire Strong, warm, light weight, resists moths, wrinkles and mildew Has static cling, holds body heat Hand or machine wash, tumble dry, iron at a low temperature Polyester Cotton, silk and woollike fabrics, crepe, double and single knits, fleece, georgette, jersey, velvet, satin taffeta Strong, warm, very wrinkle resistant, holds shape and a pressed crease, resists moths and mildew Has static cling, stains are hard to remove, holds body heat machine wash, tumble dry, needs little or no ironing Rayon Challis, crepe, linen-like fabrics, matte, jersey, velvet Absorbent Relatively fragile, holds body heat, wrinkles, shrinks Dry clean or gently machine wash, iron at a moderate temperature, can be bleached Spandex Stretch woven s, twoway stretch knits, Lycra (swimwear and active wear fabrics) Excellent stretch properties good durability, no static cling White fabrics might become yellow from prolonged exposure to air Wash or dry clean Trimmings or notions At the same time that you are shopping for fabric, you ll want to purchase the other supplies necessary to complete your project, these are known as trimmings or notions, later on in the course we will be making up the apron and for that we will need bias binding. This is then referred to as a notion. When ever you start a new project, not only is the fabric worked out but also the notions.

The fabric books & bunches When you walk into a bespoke tailor s, the first thing that you will notice is the amount of fabrics available.

3 Waist-banding comes in a roll, this is known as a trimming. Waist-banding, bias binding, trouser tape, ribbons, trousers hooks & bars and many other products are all referred to as trimmings or notions. The fabric books & bunches When you walk into a bespoke tailor s, the first thing that you will notice is the amount of fabrics available. Most will be on rolls in neatly coloured sections on shelves and some will be in books. The rest will be in small square type bundles known as bunches. These bundles of fabrics are ideal to touch and get the feel of how a suit will look once made up and gives great inspiration for both the buyer and the seller. The books in a bespoke tailoring shop are a great way for display and inspiration.

Buying your fabric Fabrics are always presented in a roll for easy measuring and cutting when they are purchased When you decide on the fabric that you are going to purchase, it is then cut at the

4 Buying your fabric Fabrics are always presented in a roll for easy measuring and cutting when they are purchased When you decide on the fabric that you are going to purchase, it is then cut at the length that you want so you always need to have worked out the amount of cloth that you will need for the project that you are going to make. It is best to always add on a small amount in case you make a mistake in cutting or actual sewing, you might even put interfacing on the wrong side, we have all done it. Choosing fabric for a project is always the starting point and is a great experience for any sewer, just remember don t rush this part, take your time and have fun. Interfacings & canvases The underlining fabric layers inside a garment are the lining, interfacing, canvases (for tailored Jackets) and interlining. The lining hides raw edges and the construction details on an inner garment and it provides a slippery surface that makes the garment comfortable to wear. Sandwiched between a facing and the garment fabric, the interfacing gives additional strength, durability and stability to collars, cuffs, waistbands and openings. Canvases and underlining are not used as widely as interfacing or and are found mainly in tailored garments. Linings are available in a wide range of colours. The chosen colour should compliment the garment unless a contrast is required. If a good match cannot be made, a toning shade that is duller, rather than brighter than the fabric colour should be used Interfacings can be woven or non-woven, sew -in or iron-on and are available in a choice of weights to suit different fabrics. Most types are made in neutral shades of white, cream, grey or black, but some woven interfacings are available in other colours. Used in garments to add padding and warmth, together with structure for either pockets, facings, collars etc.

It is available in woven and nonwoven forms and in a wide range of weights from superfine to medium.

5 Collar Melton used on the underside of a jacket collar. Canvases used in a traditional tailored garment to add body and shape. Iron-on interfacing has one side coated with a fusible adhesive. It is available in woven and nonwoven forms and in a wide range of weights from superfine to medium. Always choose the type of interfacing in relation the thickness of your fabric. Iron-on stretch interfacing is available for use on jersey. All types of iron-on interfacing should be tested on a piece of scrap fabric before applied to the main fabric for your project.

6 How to apply the interfacing Cut out the interfacing as needed for each piece. The glue side of the interfacing should face the wrong side of the cloth and applied with heat using the iron. The glue melts onto the fabric and when cool forms a bond between the two surfaces.

Once the interfacing is set you can trim any access interfacing to neaten the edges.

shrinkage test. This way you will know for sure and eradicates any nasty surprises along the way.

Cut out two small pieces of fabric in a square, they need to be identical in size. 2.

7 Once the interfacing is set you can trim any access interfacing to neaten the edges. The fabric shrinkage test If you are not sure if a fabric is going to shrink, then the best way to check is to perform a small shrinkage test. This way you will know for sure and eradicates any nasty surprises along the way. The last thing you want is to spend hours making up a beautiful garment to find that it has shrunk after it has been washed. 1. Cut out two small pieces of fabric in a square, they need to be identical in size. 2. Take only one of the pieces to the sink and wash in hot water with normal hand wash powder. 3. Allow to dry. 4. Check the washed piece against the non washed piece and see if there is any shrinkage. Washing one of the fabric squares. Allow to dry and check the size.

Chapter 44: Fabrics and Their Care. Objectives: Compare different types of fibers, fabric construction, methods, and finishes.

Chapter 44: Fabrics and Their Care Objectives: Compare different types of fibers, fabric construction, methods, and finishes. Define the following key terms. Fibers very fine, hairlike strands of various