Apparel and Sport Fabric File Fabric Descriptions. Denim: twill weave made of single hard-twisted yarns with colored warp and

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1 Apparel and Sport Fabric File Fabric Descriptions Denim: twill weave made of single hard-twisted yarns with colored warp and white or undyed fill Flannel: woven fabric made of cotton where the surface has been slightly brushed created a soft-napped fabric Canvas: extremely durable plain woven fabric Calico: traditionally referred to a plain-weave cotton cloth originating in Calicut,India; today most often applied to a cotton or cotton/polyester fabric roller-printed with small-scale design, usually floral Satin: recognized by its smooth, lustrous surface and woven with long, floating yarns in the warp; silk, polyester, acetate and rayon are common fabrications Rib knit: double knit fabric where the rib wales alternate on the face and back of the fabric Single knit: plain stitches on the face of the fabric and purl stitches on the back; can be lightweight to heavy, and made in a variety of fibers, wool, cotton, silk, nylon or blends Polar fleece: soft napped insulating fabric made from polyester Sweatshirt fleece: type of jersey fabric with plain knit stiches on the front and purl knit stitches on the back; stretch factor makes it popular

2 Felt: non-woven fabric that comes in varying qualities; wool variety is made by using heat, moisture and agitation, but can also be made by pounding and compressing cotton, polyester or rayon fibers Ripstop nylon: nylon fabric made with a special reinforcing technique that makes it resistant to tearing and ripping Canvas: extremely durable plain woven fabric Vinyl: non-woven plastic fabric Leather: the skin of an animal that has been tanned and treated Two-way stretch: stretches from selvage to selvage Four-way stretch: stretches both along the lengthwise and crosswise grain Neoprene: soft, flexible, and durable

3 Cotton: absorbent, comfortable, durable, wrinkles, shrinks, easy to launder, plant source Linen: absorbent, natural luster, quick drying, wrinkles, frays, little stretch, plant source (flax) Silk: animal source (silk worm cocoon), absorbent, natural luster, insulating, strong, resilient, dyes well, expensive, degrades and yellows from age and sunlight. Wool: animal source (fur), absorbent, strong, elastic, shrinks when laundered improperly, wrinkle resistant, warm b) Identify manmade fibers (e.g., nylon, polyester, acrylic, rayon, spandex, acetate) and their characteristics. General characteristics: made from chemical compounds, heat sensitive/will melt, less to not at all absorbent, less expensive Nylon: strong, elastic, water repellent, colorfast, frays easily Polyester: good shape retention, easy to launder, wrinkle resistant, colorfast, blends well with other fibers, retains oily stains Acrylic: resembles wool, soft, warm, nonabsorbent, pills, heat sensitive, can shrink or stretch Rayon: soft and comfortable, drapes beautifully, blends well with other fibers, shrinks, poor shape retention, wrinkles, dyes well Spandex: very elastic, adds stretch when blended with other fibers, requires stretch stitching techniques, shrinks Acetate: high luster, drapes well, loses shape, wrinkles

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5 Seam Allowance Sample Instructions 1. Cut 4-5X5 squares of fabric. Cut them in half. 2. Take 2 of the pieces right sides together. 3. Sew a ¼ seam allowance (edge of the presser foot) 4. Take another piece and add it to the end of the square, right sides together. 5. Sew a 3/8 seam allowance (1 st line on the needle plate) 6. Take another piece and add it to the end of the square, right sides together. 7. Sew a ½ seam allowance (2 nd line on the needle plate) 8. Repeat #6 9. Sew a 5/8 seam allowance 10. Repeat #6 11. Sew a ¾ seam allowance 12. Repeat #6 13. Sew a 7/8 seam allowance 14. Repeat #6 15. Sew a 1 seam allowance 16. Trim all threads and pink all unfinished edges. 17. Staple into smash book and label the seam allowance measurements and label the page seam allowances.

6 Seam Finish Instructions 1. Cut 8 squares of fabric 5 x 5. Clean Finish 1. Sew 2 squares of fabric together 5/8 seam allowance rights sides together. 2. Press the seam allowance open. 3. Press each side of the seam allowance in half toward the stitching. Press. 4. Stitch each side close to the edge Trim any loose threads. 6. Staple this sample into your smash book and label clean finish seam finish Pinked finished seam 1. Sew 2 squares of fabric together 5/8 seam allowance rights sides together. 2. Press the seam allowance open. 3. Pink the edge of the seam on each side. 4. Trim any loose threads. 5. Staple in your smash book. Label Pinked Seam Allowance Zigzag Seam Finish 1. Sew 2 squares of fabric together 5/8 seam allowance rights sides together. 2. Press the seam allowance open. 3. Push the 2 decorative stitch button on your sewing machine 4. Change your stitch length to 5 by moving the top right red button by the computer screen on the sewing machine. 5. Stitch close to the edge down each edge of seam allowance. 6. Trim any loose threads. 7. Staple in your smash book. Label Zigzag Seam Allowance Serged Seam Allowance 1. Sew 2 squares of fabric together 5/8 seam allowance rights sides together. 2. Press the seam allowance open. 3. Serge each edge of seam allowance. 4. Trim any loose threads. 5. Staple in your smash book. Label Serged Seam Allowance

7 Buttonhole Instruction Sheet 1. Cut two 5x5 in. squares of fabric. 2. Cut 5x5 fusible interfacing. 3. Iron the interfacing on the wrong side. 4. Sew a different decorative stitch on each side. 5. Finish the edges by pinking, surging, or zig zag. 6. Measure and draw 5 different length of buttonhole. (3/8 ½ 5/8 ¾ 1 in.) 7. Put buttonhole presser foot on your machine. 8. Put fabric under the presser foot at the top of the line that you measured. 9. Push the 0 on the machine. 10. Sew to the length of the buttonhole. 11. Push the reverse. 12. Put your foot on the pedal until the machine stops.

8 13. Open the buttonhole with the seam ripper. 14. Trim any lose thread. Non automatic buttonhole 1. Push #2 on the machine. 2. Change the stitch width on Change the stitch length on 1/2. 4. Sew the length of the buttonhole. 5. Change the stitch width on 4 and the length on 0. Stitch 6 stitches. 6. Pivot. 7. Change the stitch width to 2 and the length to ½. Sew the length of the buttonhole. 8. Change the stitch width on 4 and the length on 0. Stitch 6 stitches. 9. Trim the lose threads.

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