Mastering Metallics with Madeira / September 25, 2013

Transcription

1 1 Mastering Metallics with Madeira / September 25, 2013 Q: What is considered a heavier weight metallic? A: FS 30, FS 35, FS 45, FS 20 and Supertwist 30 are considered the heavier/thicker metallic embroidery threads. FS 50 and FS 40 are the lighter/thinner metallic threads. Q: My customer told me the soft finisher on the back of a design came off in the wash? A: It is important to apply this product as directed: Cut a piece of E- Zee Comfort Just Right about an inch larger around than the finished embroidery design. Rounding the corners will prevent them from lifting during the wash cycle. Turn the garment wrong side out and place the rough side of the E- Zee Comfort Just Right piece face down, covering the back side of the embroidery design. Press on, using an iron at a temperature between 250º and 270ºF for about 10 to 20 seconds. Always test with the lowest temperature and the shortest time first, adding more temperature and time if necessary. Allow the garment to cool completely before testing its adhesion. Q: I know stabilizer should be selected based on thread count, the fabric you re embroidering on, thread you re using, etc. Do you have a chart online explaining the appropriate stabilizers to use? Examples should include: batiste, towels, knits, denim, etc. A: Yes, we have an E- Zee Backing Guide online at zee- backing- guide- about- e- zee. Q: FS 35, 1000m doesn't fit on my Amaya machine. What can be done with these spools? A: FS 35 weight metallic comes on the larger cones only. These should work fine on the Melco Amaya machines. Q: I would highly recommend the bobbin tension gauge. A: A bobbin gauge is very handy, especially for those new to the industry and also for those that still have difficulty setting the bobbin tension. You ll find bobbin tension gauges online in the accessories section: Q: Does Rayon thread shrink? A: Rayon does not shrink. It will stiffen or harden up when wet. Once it dries, it will return to its soft form again. Q: What do you mean by soft backing? A: Cut Away backings are generally soft backings that provide maximum stability. Most Tear Away backings have a stiff, paper feel to them. This is what allows them to be torn away. There are soft Tear Away backings available, however, if ongoing stability is needed during the life of the garment, a Cut Away backing is the best choice.

2 2 Q: We often get bird s nesting under the needle plate. What would you suggest to eliminate this? A: Bird s nesting is very often due to improper tension. Be sure to clean the rotary area out completely after experiencing a bird s nest. If you experience these on a regular basis, try stitching our tension test design in order to perfect setting tension properly. This design is available on our Special Thread Design section online, at thread- designs Q: Can I use Madeira Metallic thread on my Barudan commercial Machine? What speed would you recommend? A: Madeira s metallic embroidery threads are designed to work on all commercial embroidery machines. With metallic threads, start with spm. Lower the speed in increments of 50 spm to find the speed that works best on your machine. Q: What is best for a 30,000 stitch count for religious garments with designs like a cross, faces of saints, etc? A: With larger designs, you will want to consider the heavier/thicker metallic threads so you can reduce the amount of stitches. Proper digitizing and your choice of needle size will need to be considered with the thicker threads. Q: What size needle would I use for the 30,000- plus stitch design and how would I prevent puckering, other than using a fusible stabilizer on satin material? A: The needle size depends on the type of thread being used. A needle chart is available to download online: Q: Is the design with the fleur- de- lis crest available for purchase? A: It is free for you to use! You will find it under the Special Thread Designs section under the Services tab online at thread- designs Q: Will the slides be available after the Webinar? A: Yes, we will provide a link to the entire webinar. You ll also find it on UTube. Q: I also have problems with loops coming off the cone. What was the name of that product? A: Astre Net; it is Item # Q: I would like to have any info on using metallic threads on structured caps. I encounter numerous thread breaks. A: Typically, thread breaks on caps, especially structured caps are due to the type of needle being used. Be sure to use a sharp point needle and increase the size of the needle, as well. Standard Eye Needles (as apposed to Large Eye) are available and may provide a stronger needle. Titanium needles are another good choice. Another cause of thread breaks can be caused by flagging. When digitizing for caps, be sure your designs are stitching from the center out and from the bottom up.

3 3 Q: Can metallic threads be used on caps with 3D foam? A: Polyneon, our 100% polyester thread, works best for 3D foam designs. While it has not been tested, it is believed that the metallic threads would be too rough or harsh on the foam. Testing is always best on a similar garment or fabric. Q: Would rayon be the thread of choice when doing children s clothing (t- shirts, or thick interlock knits) A: It would depend on the type of children s clothing. Rayon would be a good choice on high end garments that would not be subjected to wash water containing bleach. But for everyday children s clothing that may be thrown into wash water containing bleach or other harsh products, a polyester thread is recommend. Q: Can you use metallic threads with appliqué? A: Yes, metallic threads work well with appliqué. Substituting the FS 50 or FS 40 for the satin stitch edging would look great! Q: Doesn't rayon bleed color in the washing machine? A: Our Classic Rayon thread is a colorfast thread. Over- dye in some threads can cause bleeding in both rayon and polyester thread. It actually happens on a regular basis, but is never noticed as it happens during the wash cycle. It is only revealed when water is introduced prior to washing such as when using a water soluble topping. Over- dye can be removed easily by re- washing the garment in the warmest water recommended for both garment and thread until it is gone. Do not dry it until the color is completely gone. Q: Which knob tightens the bobbin? A: Bobbin tension is adjusted by tightening and loosening the tension screw on the bobbin case. We suggest you reference your specific machine manual. Q: Which metallic threads are best for knit shirts? A: Any of the metallic threads would work well on knit shirts. You may want to adjust the amount you use based on the type of metallic threads in order to keep the stitch count from weighing down the design. Q: I have been told to always use the Polyneon #40 thread over rayon. What is the difference? A: Choosing between rayon and polyester should be based on your end use. To better understand this, please visit our blog at

4 4 Q: Must you use special backings with the different metallic threads? A: Backing should be chosen based on the type of fabric you are embroidering on, in order to provide the best stability. When working with metallic threads, a soft backing is recommended to avoid abrasion with the metallic threads. Q: How do I know where to set the tension with metallic threads? A: Generally, you would set the tension looser for metallic threads than you would for rayon or polyester. You still want to maintain the 1/3- rule, where 1/3 of the bobbin thread can be seen on the underside when stitching out a satin stitch. A test design is available to assist in achieving this with all threads at thread- designs Q: If purchasing already digitized designs from websites can you still use most metallic threads? A: For stock designs we suggest using our FS 50 or FS 40 weight metallic threads. Generally, these can be used to replace your standard Classic Rayon or Polyneon #40 thread without re- digitizing. Q: Can you use both a ballpoint and sharp needle with metallics? What do you recommend? A: The tip of the needles should be chosen based on the fabric being embroidered. Sharp needles should be used for tightly woven fabrics such as denim and heavy twills or caps. Ballpoint needles should be used on knits and all lightly woven fabrics (like oxford cloth and other dress shirt materials). Q: I have been using the X.tra #30 thread which I understand will no longer be available, with matching Rayon as a bobbin thread to make free standing lace ornaments. What would you suggest I use now to substitute? A: Metallic threads may not lend themselves well to stand alone lace. You are correct that the X.tra line of thread is being discontinued. The good news is that there is a fair amount of this product in stock at this time and it has been discounted to $5.06 per cone. You may want to consider stocking up on it at Q: Can you list some stores who carry Madeira or a web site to order the different threads in the Hendersonville NC or Charlotte area? A: We have a Customer Service Center located in Charlotte, NC. To view this address and the other 12 locations, go to locations. You can also order online, at Q: Where in California could I buy a sample kit? A: Special offers are available at save

5 5 Q: I have a request by a customer to embroidery a silver metallic "S" on the back of a purple cape. Actually, 8 capes! They want the "S" to be 12 inches long. How can I do this job to get the very best results? A: You have a couple of options for these. Using the thicker thread will provide quicker coverage with fewer stitches. When embroidering on knit fabrics, be sure to run the stitches horizontal to the fabric. Another option would be to use an appliqué design. Using both the metallic thread along with our new reflective appliqué material would be very effective. Q: What about the bobbin thread? A: Continue to use embroidery bobbin thread with metallic threads. Q: Can we charge more if we incorporate metallic thread into a design? A: Metallic threads cost more to manufacture, so they cost more to purchase. Pricing should be increased based on what your particular market will bear, but raising the price of an item that contains metallic thread by 20% would be a good rule of thumb. Q: Will this webinar be accessible for later viewing? A: Yes, this webinar will be available to view at Q: I find that metallic threads twist and then break frequently, how do I avoid this? A: Metallic thread can require extra care, especially when the air is particularly dry and static is present. Using an anti- static spray in the room (on carpeting and other fabrics; curtains, etc) can help to reduce it. The Astre Net (Item # ) discussed in the webinar, can help as well. Q: I missed the needle size for the FS 40. Please repeat. A: You can use your standard large eye #75/11 needle for FS 40. Q: How long do the metallic threads last, especially in a dry climate? A: Embroidery thread has the ability to last as long as the life of the garment. It is all dependent on how the thread itself is stored and if the washing instructions for each particular thread are followed. Thread should always be stored in a cool, dry place, away from excessive light. Washing instructions for all Madeira threads are located on each of the individual thread charts. Q: I have some Madeira metallic thread that is very thick. I misplaced my metallic needles and used jeans needles instead. Is that okay? A: If the needle is working, then stick with it! Q: What is the metallic thread made of? A: Each of the metallic threads has different components. One of the common ones is Fine Silver, signified by the FS in front of the thread s weight. The make- up of each metallic thread is listed on the back of its thread chart.

6 6 Q: Is the machine tension the same as the Actifeed level for my Amaya machine? A: Many of the newer machines have auto- tensioning. Please refer to your machine manual for machine specifics regarding tension. Q: On the flower design, what kind of thread was used? A: Burmilana 12, Classic Rayon #40 and FS 50. Q: How well will the metallic work on Spandex? A: Metallic thread can be used on Spandex. You may want to limit the amount used on this lightweight, stretchy material. The use of our coverall finishing material would be beneficial to use on the back side after embroidering. Q: I used a water soluble topping to sew athletic garments when sewing with metallic threads. I found that it helped with thread breakage. A: While this is not a common practice, if it works, stay with it! Q: We stitch large monograms, 8 inches in diameter, on sweatshirts or t- shirts. Which metallic thread would you recommend for this? A: While digitizing is the key to success with the thicker metallic threads, you will find that it will fill in better with fewer stitches. Also consider appliqué for larger letters and numbers. Q: Would you recommend Wash Away stabilizer? A: Water soluble stabilizers/backings should be used when the backside of embroidery will be visible from time to time. Keep in mind that water soluble backings will wash away completely, leaving the thread only. It is important to use them when the fabric along with the design can support itself after the backing is washed away. Q: On the Supertwist #30 pink flower stitch- out, how was this look achieved? A: There were three types of thread stitched out in layers. Supertwist 30 was on the bottom, with a Burmilana on top and the FS 50 in the center. Q: So I got to see it (the flower) again and saw that it used Burmilana thread. Is there a webinar on uses for the Burmilana? A: We do not have a webinar on Burmilana yet. We do, however, offer a product information sheet that would be useful to you, at the following link:

7 7 Q: Is there a difference between using a Metallic needle compared to a regular one? Will it help to keep the thread from twisting? A: With commercial embroidery needles, there is no difference between regular and metallic needles. With the home machines, they do refer to the larger size needles as metallic needles. Be sure to view our needle chart online to reference which needles are recommended for which types of thread. Q: Will you be showing us all the colors for each metallic? A: We'll be talking about how many shades are available in each metallic family, but we will not show each individual color. A metallic thread chart may be ordered online. Order item # Q: Will there be a place where we can print off what we learn or what we forgot what we learned. A: This webinar will be recorded for viewing later on. Visit Madeira s YouTube section at Q: I use FS 40 in designs. I never had to slow down the machine, yet every embroiderer says I should. I did loosen up on tension, but was actually able to speed up the machine. Why the discrepancy? A: Each machine is different. If you have all of the correct variables in place, running it at high speed is not unheard of. Quite often I forget to turn the speed down, only to realize that the entire design stitched out just fine! Q: What about Teflon coated "Cool Sew" needles? A: The Cool Sew needles embedded with material similar to Teflon are great when embroidering on fabrics that tend to heat up during embroidery. These needles can assist with metallic threads, too. Q: When using the Polyneon as a base, then metallic over it, is it just double layered? A: Yes. Generally you would digitize it so they are both light fills. This way both types of thread can be seen as a blended effect. Q: We live where it is a dry environment all year long. Would Astre Net be of use for all cones of Polyneon? A: It can be. Keeping some controlled moisture in the air would be helpful, too. Q: At what speed should we run the machine? A: For metallic threads, start with Stitches per minute and adjust if necessary. If the thread is breaking, slow it down. Q: Do you have to change timing for the #100/16 needle? A: This is machine- specific. Check with your manual or machine technician.

8 8 Q: What is Glamour #12? A: Glamour #12 thread is a retail version of Supertwist. While Supertwist 30 weight will continue to be available, Supertwist 12 weight is currently being discontinued on the commercial side. Q: I have spools of Madeira Spectra that I inherited so I don't know how old these are. Are these considered metallic thread? A: Spectra thread is an old, discontinued thread. It does have metallic qualities. It is a flat, holographic thread. It can be difficult to run and may be too old to use. Q: I love the Burmilana thread in the design with the flower, but I read it cannot be washed? A: Burmilana, like all embroidery thread, has specific washing guidelines. It can be washed, but it is recommended not to be tumble dried. Each thread s specific washing instructions can be found on the back of its thread chart and online with the product. Q: What was the suggested digitizing density for the FS 50? A: Average density for FS 50. Q: Metallics often break when I use them. It can be when I m stitching over other stitches, or just in the satin stitch of a name. I've tried changing metallic threads and using a metallic needle. Any suggestions? A: If the design is digitized properly, more likely than not it is the tension causing the breaking. Also, keep in mind that older threads, not stored properly can be problematic. Q: Is there any difference with the Soft Metallic? A: It is basically the make up of the product. While the FS 40 metallic is not a rough metallic thread, Soft Metallic 40 is slightly softer. There is a larger variety of colors available in the FS40. Q: Where could I find the density, digitizing and other charts you mentioned? A: The density chart is located at You may also download it directly from this link: Q: I have a single needle machine. Are there any tricks so that the thread doesn't break as much? I've tried using thread stands, moving the thread away from the machine and even running the thread through a hole in an acrylic ruler! A: Running metallic threads can be a challenge on home embroidery machines. It sounds like you are trying the suggested tricks suggested here and there. If you are using the FS 40 or FS 50, you should not be experiencing any issues. If you are using a thicker thread, be sure to use a design digitized properly. Q: Will any mention be made of Supertwist 12? A: While Supertwist 30 weight will continue to be available, Supertwist 12 is currently being discontinued.

9 9 Q: On your FS thread card you have FS No. 20, No. 15, No. 10, No. 8 and No. 12; are you going to talk about these threads and where they are available? (They are listed under Silver All Stars.) A: FS 20 was discussed in the webinar. Madeira USA does not currently offer the thicker No. 8, No. 10 or No. 12 weight metallic threads in the U.S. These are actually considered sewing threads and would be used primarily for decorative seams. Q: How does FS 40 hold up on polo/t- shirts? Also in laundering? A: FS 40 will hold up fine. As with all embroidery threads, metallic threads have specific washing and care instructions that can be found on the backs of the thread charts and with the products online. Q: With the holidays coming up, what do you recommend for stitching on tea/hand towels? A: For delicate embroidery, FS 40 or FS 50 would be a good choice. If there is any chance the towel would be subjected to bleach in wash water, go for FS 30. Q: Can we use metallic thread for fonts as small as.250? A: With FS 50, letters as small as 4mm in height can be achieved. Q: How can I contact Rich Medcraft? A: Rich Medcraft runs StitchWise Embroidery Design in Eagle Point, OR; ;