Alleweder a8 construction manual

Transcription

1 v 1.0.0

2 The Frame Part 1 THE FRAME PART 1 The Alleweder a8 obtains its structural integrity from a frame wich consists of crosswise and lengthwise construction parts. The crosswise oriented parts are called ribs, the lengthwise oriented parts stringers. Later, the rear wheel housing and thus the rear fork, the struts, the seat, the steering and the drive train components will be mounted to the frame. In addition, it supports the metal sheet faring which will be riveted with the frame. Required: Parts: Abb. 1: Main rib consisting of two parts which have to be screwed together. Abb. 2: Longitudinal beams, chain idlers will be connected to one of them. Abb. 3: Trunk compartment rib Abb. 4: Wheel house ribs. Tools: Hexagon socket screw key ( Allen key ) Loctite 2701 or Freebond 1305, not included) Wrenches

3 The Frame Part 1 Building steps: First, the two parts of the main rib are screwed together. For this, M5 hexagon socket screws and fitting lock nuts are used. A little bit of Loctite should be put on the screws (this should be done with all screws which are not accessible later). Now the wheel house ribs will be screwed to the longitudinal beams. Use M5 hexagonal socket screws with barrel heads for this. Apart from the main rib, always use washers. Main rib and longitudinal beams are connectes with the same screws. The trunk compartment rib is also connected to the longitudinal beams. The chain idlers can be assembled later, when the chain line can be checked. The milled parts show a smooth and a structured surface respectively. See Fig. 9 to Fig. 11 for the correct arrangement. Abb. 5: Longitudinal beam. Here, the main rib will be connected. Abb. 6: Longitudinal beam, the wheel house ribs will be connected here. Abb. 7: Longitudinal beam, the trunk compartment rib will be connected here. The aluminium-brackets can already be mounted to the trunk compartment rib. They will later be also connected to the rear wheel housing (a big plastic part). Use raised head screws and fitting nuts. Abb. 8: Trunk compartment rib and attached aluminium-brackets.

4 The Frame Part 1 Result of this building step: Abb. 9: Intermediate result of the frame construction. Overall view- The chain idlers can be attached now or later. Their position will have to be checked later. Abb. 10: Intermediate result of the frame construction, trunk compartment rib, smooth side to the front.. Abb. 11: Intermediate result of the frame construction, main rib and wheel house ribs, smooth sides to the front..

5 The Frame Part 2 The Frame Part 2 The frame built up to now will now be extended by the rear wheel housing. Required: Parts: Abb. 13: Rear wheel housing Tools: Hexagon socket screw key ( Allen key ) Loctite 2701 or Freebond 1305, not included) Wrenches Building steps: The rear wheel housing will now be connected to the longitudinal beams and the trunk compartment rib. Therefore, hexagon socket screws and fitting nuts are used. On the side of the plastic part, big washers are used to avoid damages. Abb. 14: This is the way to insert the rear wheel housing into the frame. Abb. 15: Rear wheel housing. View from inside. Connection to the trunk compartment rib with raised head screws. Abb. 16: Rear wheel housing. Connection to the longitudinal beam with barrel head screws (nuts outside).

6 The Frame Part 2 Abb. 17: Rear wheel housing. Connection to the trunk compartment rib with aluminium brackets. From the front. Abb. 18: Rear wheel housing. Connection to the trunk compartment rib with aluminium brackets. From the rear. Abb. 19: Rear wheel housing. Connection to the trunk compartment rib in the middle, from the front.

7 The Frame Part 3 The Frame Part 3 Now the upper and the lower frame plate, the steering bearing, the bottom bracket frame and its mounting, the rear fork bearings, the chain tunnel cover and the chain idlers are assembled. Required: Parts: Abb. 20: Overview of the required parts. Abb. 21: Chain tensioning idler with mounting. Abb. 22: Part bag 2: Chain idler, ball couplings, steering bearing, chain tube guidance, screws. Abb. 23: Upper frame plate. Abb. 24: Lower frame plate with ball couplings. Abb. 25: Rear fork bearing, rear fork damper. Abb. 26: Right mounting of the bottom bracket frame (left mounting not displayed). Abb. 27: Steering bearing. Abb. 28: Upper chain tunnel cover. Tools: Hexagon socket screw key ( Allen key )

8 The Frame Part 3 Loctite 2701 or Freebond 1305, not included) Wrenches Rivet gun Screw clamp Building steps: First, the rear fork bearings are assembled. Abb. 29: Connection of the rear fork bearing. Screw aluminium part through pre-drilled holes. Abb. 30: Use big washers outside to avoid damages to the plastic part. Abb. 31: View after the installation. The wholes at the top will later serve as mounting points for the rear fork dampers. Now the rear fork itself can be assembled. However, the rear fork is comparably heavy. As the velomobile will have to be turned a couple of times during its built, the installation can be done later as well. Fort this, the following has to be done: Abb. 32: Assembly of the rear fork: the clamp must be released, the rear fork must be inserted into the bearing with the bearing bolts. Abb. 33: Subsequently, the clamp must be fixed again. (tighten screws crosswise), the srewed bolts of the dampers are put through the predrilled holes. Abb. 34: Thre rear fork dampers are fastened from above with flat washers and self-locking nuts. Prior to the assembly of the upper frame plate, the chain idlers are assembled. The screws which hold the socket should be provided with loctite. Do not provide the M8 screw which holds the idler with loctite.

9 The Frame Part 3 Abb. 35: The upper frame plate must positioned in a way that main rib and wheel house ribs lie right under the pre-drilled rivet holes. Abb.36: The upper frame plate is fixed with M5 hexagon socket screws. Abb.37: The chain idler must be lined such that it can turn freely (watch the chain line). Abb. 38: The upper chain tunnel cover is rivetted. Start at front, rivet alternately left and right. Abb. 39: The rivets which connect the metal sheet with the rear wheel housing are set from underneath. Abb. 40: View at the rivets from the inner of the rear wheel housing.. Abb. 41: Now the lower frame plate is assembled. Abb. 42: The pre-drilled rivet holes must overlap the rivet areas of the ribs. Abb. 43: A screw clamp can be useful here. Abb. 44: The chain tube guidance is rivetted to the right mounting of the bottom bracket frame. Abb. 45: The stearing bearing (black block) is fitted into the holding parts. Maybe the block must be grinded to fit. Both screws and the steering part with the ball-couplings will be assembled later. Abb. 46: The assembled steering bearing with its holding parts must now be positioned right behind the main rib...

10 The Frame Part 3 Abb. 47:...and will be covered by the mountings of the bottom bracket frame. Abb. 48: The parts are (preliminarily) loosely connected with these countersunk screws. Abb. 49: The bottem bracket frame can now be mounted, the countersunk screws can be tightened. Abb. 50: The bottom bracket frame is fixed crosswise by the screws of its mounting Longitudinally, it is connected to the main rib with four barrel-head screws Abb. 51: The bottom bracket frame is first pulled towards the main rib with the barrel head screws. Subsequently tighten the crosswise oriented screws. Abb. 52: This cross screw hole must be drilled. Either you mark it, disassemble everything and drill it with a box column drill, or... Abb. 53:...you drill it directly in assembled state. Drill from left and right Abb. 54: The frame number should be visible on the upper side now. Abb. 55: Now the chain tensioning idler is assembled. Abb. 56: The chain tensioning idler presses backwards and upwards. It is adjusted to the chain line later by screwing the nuts on the lower cross screw.

11 The wheel houses The wheel houses Now the front wheel houses are built. In addition, the bottom bracket will be assembled and the front ball-couplings will be mounted. Required: Parts: Abb. 57: Per side: inner wheel house plate, upper wheel house plate, two pre-bent 10mm tubes, one with straight appendix. Abb. 58: Per side: a short 10mm tube, a M8 ball-coupling with washer and locknut. Abb. 59: Bottom bracket housing with pre-mounted bottom bracket and clamp-mount. Tools: Cordless drill Rivet gun Wooden board with hole Hexagon socket key Wrenches Plastic hammer/grinding machine Building steps: Abb. 60: The bottom bracket housing is mounted on the frame. The exact position can be adjusted later. Abb. 61: Attention: the marking "K" on the housing has to be on the right side! The hexagon socket screws should be accessible from the left side. Abb. 62: The short 10mm tube is inserted. It will be rivetted to the inner wheel house plate later.

12 The wheel houses Abb. 63: The M8 ball-coupling is mounted. Abb. 64: The inner wheel house plate is now rivetted to the main rib. Then the pre-bent 10mm tube (the one without the straight appendix) is adjusted to the curve and rivetted to the plate. Abb. 65: The tubes can be easily bent by sticking the through a hole in a wooden board bending them sidewards. Bend gently to avoid buckles. Abb. 66: The short 10mm tube is rivetted to the inner wheel house plate. Abb. 67: Rearward, the bent tube should end significantly above the bottom edge to leave space for the rear M8 ball-coupling. Abb. 68: Now a pre-bent 10mm tube (the one with a straight appendix) is adjusted to the outer curve and rivetted to the upper wheel house plate. Abb.69: Proceed from the middle outwards. Abb.70: View onto the wheel house, rear. Abb.71: View onto the wheel house, in front. Abb.72: View onto the wheel house, total view. Abb.73: The excess length can be adjusted to the curve of the tube with a rigid item. You can also work gently with a plastic hammer or a piece of wood here. Abb.74: The best appearance can be achieved by additional grinding of the edges.

13 The nose rib The nose rib The foremost frame part is installed now. Required: Parts: Abb. 75: Nose rib Abb. 76: Two 10mm-tubes, 600mm long. Tools: Cordless drill Rivet gun Wooden board with a hole Building steps: Abb. 77: The 10mm tubes are bent a little about 10-12cm from the end. Abb. 78: The bent end is rivetted to the inner wheel house plate and/or the lower frame plate. The nose rib is rivetted to the bottom bracket frame and the 10mm tube. Abb. 79: The nose rib must stand 590mm in front of the main rib (measure left and right side, be sure that the position is straight).

14 The bottom plates The bottom plates The plates along the rear wheel housing and below the chain tunnel are now assembled. Required: Parts: Abb. 80: Front bottom plate. Abb. 81: Back bottom plate. Tools: Cordless drill Rivet gun Tape measure Building steps: The front bottom plate is placed with the opening over the chain idler and rivetted in the front area. Before the rear rivet connections are established, the back bottom plate has to be brought into position. Abb. 82: The back bottom plate lies over the front bottom plate. Abb. 83: Both plates are connected at a pre-drilled position outside of the rivet line. Abb. 84: You necessarily have to measure the distance to the plate on both sides of the rear wheel housing.

15 The bottom plates Abb. 85: if this plate is placed odd or misplaced, this could effect the driveability. Abb. 86: The position of the plates prior to rivetting. Abb. 87: Now all rivet connections can be established.. Abb. 88: View of the area after rivetting. Abb. 89: Intermediate result after rivetting. Abb. 90: Intermediate result after rivetting.

16 The frame part 4 The frame part 4 To bend the remaining aluminium plates into the correct shape and to connect them stable with the frame, aluminium tubes are mounted as stringers. Required: Parts: Abb. 91: Cockpit (half-)rib, 19mm aluminium tubes (720 and 1020mm long). Abb. 92: 10mm aluminium tubes (830mm long) and connection tubes (short tubes 12,7x80mm). Abb. 93: Rear rib. Tools: Cordless drill Rivet gun Wooden board with hole Tape measure Building steps: Abb. 94: First, the 10mm aluminium tubes have to be adjusted in their curve from the main rib to the nose rib. Abb. 95: For this, some centimeters from the nose rib, a significant curve has to be established. Abb. 96: The curve from the main rib on will thus self-establish on the basis of the tube linkage.

17 The frame part 4 Abb. 97: The cockpit rib is pushed onto the 1020mm long 19mm tubes and the 830mm long 10mm tubes. It is positioned 328mm from the main rib. Abb. 98: The tubes may excess the trunk compartment rib by some millimeters. Abb. 99: The two 830mm long (front and back) 10mm tubes are connected by a short tube of 12.7mm diameter. Abb. 100: Measure the distance between main rib and cockpit rib once more. The middle of the upper edge of the trunk compartment rib should sit 1082mm away from the mittle of the upper edge of the main rib. Measure both sides to receive a straight vehicle. Subsequently rivet the tubes to the ribs. Abb. 101: Now the basis of the rear rib can be rivetted to the back bottom plate. Abb. 102: The intermediate result now almost has the form of a velomobile. View from behind through all ribs (which should stand exactly in a row and straight). The tubes should be rivetted to the ribs where the rivets are not covered by plates (marked O.K in the drawing). If not necessary, no (additional) rivet should be set under the plate ( X in the drawing). Where not avoidable, (! in the drawing), the rib should be drilled out. Leave enough material to ensure a durable connection, drill out deep enoug such that the rivet head will not deform the covering plate. Abb. 103: Schematic drawing of the trunk compartment rib (black lines), of the covering plate (red line) and possible rivet positions.

18 The fairing plates part 1 The fairing plates part 1 Parts of the fairing were already assembled when the bottom plates were mounted However, from now on you will assemble plates which will be visible. Prior to rivetting, the plates should be brought into position and, in most cases be fixed with tape. Assemble the plates pairwise (i.e. both plates left and right) from the back to the front. Taping is necessary to end up with smoothly curved plates without harsh edges or buckles. Required: Parts: The fairing plates you need in this stet are: Abb. 104: Left upper rear plate. Abb. 105: Right upper rear plate. Abb. 106: Optional support plate. Tools: Cordless drill Rivet gun Tape Bending aid (Paper roll or similar) Building steps: Abb. 107: The upper rear plates are positioned next to each other such that the pre-drilled holes overlap. Abb. 108: The plates are connected by rivets. Leave the edge holes free. Abb. 109: The support plate can, but does not have to be assembled. Some riders sit on the rear section to board the vehicle. In such cases this plate improves stability. At this point, set rivet in lengthwise direction only!

19 The fairing plates part 1 Abb. 110: The conected rear upper plates are now connected with the trunk compartment rib (front) and the rear rib (back) with three to five rivets each. Abb. 111: The plate is now bended cautiously over a cylindrical bending aid. A paper roll or a tightly rolled isolation matrace are well suited. With this aid, the plates are pressed into the concave form of the ribs. Abb. 112: Now the plates are rivetted, interchanging left and right up to those positions where the plate touch the rib withouth applying force. Abb. 113: View from front. Tape ensures a well fit. Abb. 114: Also at the tail the plate is fixed and brought into position with tape prior to rivetting. Abb. 115: Rivet up to the middle of the plate at the back and up to the 19mm tube at front. Abb. 116: One of the remaining 10mm tubes serves as bending aid here. Abb. 117: The upper rear plates are carefully bent around the bending aid inwards. Abb. 118: If you are working alone, it can be helpful to fix the bending aid with tape. Abb. 119: Now the edges of the support plate can be rivetted too. Abb. 120: After bending, the lower part of the rear upper plates can be rivetted. The connection to the back bottom plate remains open. Abb. 121: The excess material in front of the trunk compartment rib can be sliced and bent inwards to let the now following side plate overlap more nicely.

20 The fairing plates part 2 The fairing plates part 2 Now the side plates are assembled. Required: Parts: Abb. 122: Side plates (the left and the right plate are identical). Abb. 123: Two aluminium tubes 10x600mm. Tools: Cordless drill Rivet gun Tape Building steps: Abb. 124: The side plate is put in such that the double row of predrilled holes lies on the 19mm tube. Abb. 125: Prior to rivetting the double row with the 19mm tube, the position of the cockpit rib should be checked. Abb. 126: The side plate is carefully bent over the 10mm tube and rivetted to it through the pre-drilled holes..

21 The fairing plates part 2 Abb. 127: The second side plate is treated in the same way. Abb. 128: View from behind: The side plates are now carefully bent further. Abb. 129: Then they are fixed to the bottom plate with tape. Abb. 130: View from inside: In spite of the tape the plate will not fully overlap. Abb. 131: View from front: While there is a sideward gap, the side plate overlaps the wheel house to the front, the upper rear plate to the back and the bottom plate below. Abb. 132: The velomobile must now be turned and the side plates are fixed and brought into position with more tape. Abb. 133: You do not have to be stingy with the tape. If the side plates are fixed well, it will be easier to rivet them later. Abb. 134: The side plates overlap the bottom plate slightly. Abb. 135: At their rear end, the side plates are connected to the rear upper plates over approx. 15cm. To achieve a nice look, the rivets of the rear upper plates with the trunk compartment rib should be drilled out first and then a rivet should be set through both plates and rib. Abb. 136: The front of the side plates is rivetted to the wheel house tubes. Abb. 137: The rivets are set one after the other interchanging back and front. Beware of tensions in the plate! Abb. 138: The back of the plate is rivetted down to the 19mm tube.

22 The fairing plates part 2 Abb. 139: The side plate is rivetted to the 19mm tube. Abb. 140: Approx. 300mm from the front edge, the side plate is connected to the bottom plate. Abb. 141: Before this rivet is set, you must be sure that the side plate is overlapping the bottom plate well. Abb. 142: One after the other the rivets of the lower part of the wheel house and the rivets with the bottom plate are set. The excess material can be cut and bent to fit the wheel house. Abb. 143: When connecting side plates and bottom plate, rivet from the front to the back and stop where the plastic part of the rear wheel housing starts. Abb. 144: The 10mm tubes are adjusted to the curve of the plate along the wheel housing first. Abb. 145: Then the bent tubes are rivetted to the plate. Abb. 146: The lower edge of the upper rear plates are now rivetted to the bent tubes. Abb. 147: View from another perspective. Abb. 148: The plates are fixed with tape again. Abb. 149: Tightly pressed together, rivetting is easy.. Abb. 150: Now the remaining rivets between side plates and bottom plate and rear upper plates can be set. The excess material can be cut off.

23 The fairing plates part 3 The fairing plates part 3 Now the front lid plates are assembled. Prior to this the velmobile has to be turned in its correct position (top side upwards). Required: Parts: Abb. 151: The lid plates. Above the rear, below the front lid plate. Tools: Cordless drill Rivet gun Tape Building steps: Abb. 152: Now the rear lid plate is rivetted to the cockpit rib in the middle. Abb. 153: The plate's edges are connected with tape as in the picture. Abb. 154: Close to the tops of the ribs, the last rivets are set. Then the tape is released.

24 The fairing plates part 3 Abb. 155: The ends of the plate should now be sufficiently pre-bent. With the bending aid of the upper rear plates (Paper roll) you can refinish. Abb. 156: The lid plate is fixed with tape. It has to overlap the wheel house tube. Abb. 157: To ensure a smooth transition of lid and side plate... Abb. 158:...the foremost rivets of the side plate have to be drilled out again. Abb. 159: At this position, the plate has to be pressed well against the rib. A rivet has to be set here. Abb. 160: The rear part of the lid is ready..

25 The fairing plates part 4 The fairing plates part 4 The fairing plate works are coming to an end. In the lower front area two nose plates are yet missing. Required: Parts: Abb. 161: Nose plate Tools: Cordless drill Rivet gun Tape Plastic hammer Building steps: Abb. 162: The nose plate is rivetted between main rib and nose rib to the 10mm tubes of the wheel house and the mounting of the nose rib. Abb. 163: The rear lid plate should be overlaped by the nose plate by approx. 12mm. Abb. 164: First you rivet along the upper 10mm tube..

26 The fairing plates part 4 Abb. 165: Then from the back to the front along the wheel house tube. Abb. 166: The plate has to overlap the nose rib. Abb. 167: The excess material is bent over later.. Abb. 168: Some rivets are drilled out at the front edge of the rear lid plate. Abb. 169: Keep only a small number of rivets to maintain the form of the plate. Abb. 170: The side edges of the front lid plate are connected by tape as in the picture. Abb. 171: Then the front lid plate is connected to the middle of the main rib and the nose rib with some rivets. Abb. 172: From the middle to the sides the holes of the rear lid plate are used... Abb. 173:...to connect both lid plates and the rib Abb. 174: Those rivets which remained in the rear lid plate... Abb. 175: are now drilled out, the rivet parts are removed and the hole faired as much as possible. Abb. 176: Then both lid plates are rivetted with the main rib. Rivet stepwise also at the nose rib.

27 The fairing plates part 4 Abb. 177: Stop rivetting close to the tops of the ribs. Abb. 178: After the nose plate is rivetted, the front lid plate is now fixed on the nose plate with tape. Abb. 179: An underlay (measuring tape, wood or something similar) supports a better pressing of the plate. Abb. 180: Finally, the front lid plate is rivetted to the ribs and the other plates. Abb. 181: The excess material at the wheel house is bent over. Abb. 182: Start at one side and proceed to the other. Grind where necessary. Abb. 183: Spots which can not be reached with the plastic hammer can be hit with a piece of wood. Abb. 184: View from below: the nose plate is connected to the 10mm tube and to the nose rib here as well. Abb. 185: The excess material can be bent over here as well.

28 The fairing plates part 5 The fairing plates part 5 At the tail rib the tail plate is missing which holds the tail light. Also the grip to move the velomobile around can now be assembled. Required: Parts: Abb. 186: The tail plate and the battery tail light. Tools: Cordless drill Rivet gun wrenches Building steps: Abb. 187: There are pre-drilled holes in the tail plate which hold the tail light. Abb. 188: The tail light is assembled with washer and nut. Abb. 189: Ready to be rivetted into the tail rib. Abb. 190: The plate is rivetted into the rib, the grip is sticked into the gap and the excess material bent over.

29 The struts The struts Apart from the rear fork, you need the struts to put the velomobile on its wheels. Turn it upside down. Required: Parts: Abb. 191: Lower part of the strut with drum brake and mounting for steering and tie rods, white plastic part to position the spring, short red spring and long blue spring, upper part of the strut with mounting for the frame connection screw. Abb. 192: Frame connection screw (knurled head hexagon socket screw). Abb. 193: Thread rods (2xM6, 2xM8 short, 2xM8 long), fitting nuts. Tools: Wrenches Hexagon socket keys Grease Teflon spray Building steps: Abb. 194: The nuts are screwed onto the thread rods leaving enough space for the ball-couplings, in which they have to be screwed. Abb. 195: The white plastic part is inserted into the strut with the plate in front. Abb. 196: The springs are greased and inserted into the strut (first the short red, then the long blue spring).

30 The struts Abb. 197: The surface of the strut tube must NOT be greased. Instead you can use Teflon spray (re-apply every km). Abb. 198: Take care that no grease gets onto the strut tube when sliding the upper part of the strut over the lower part. Abb. 199: The ends of the thread rods are greased. Abb. 200: The M6 thread rods are screwed completely into the ball couplings of the steering. The counter nuts may yet remain loose. Abb. 201: The short M8 thread rod is screwed completely into the ballcoupling of the main rib. Abb. 202: View from the side: left the M8, right the M6 thread rod. Abb. 203: The long M8 thread rod is screwed completely into the ballcoupling in the wheel house. Abb. 204: The thread rods are ready for the assembly of the strut. Note that the thread rods delivered to you have other lengths than those in the pictures. Abb. 205: The ball coupling of the upper part of the strut is mounted in the deepening of the main rib using the knurled head screw. Tighten well. The allocation of the thread rods to the remaining ball-couplings results from the position of the parts.

31 The chain tube, cranks and chain The chain tube, cranks and chain While the velomobile is lying upside-down, the chain tubes, cranks and the chain should be added. Required: Parts: Abb. 206: chain ring, cranks and pedals. Further: cable straps. Abb. 207: Chain tube holders, (chain tubes and chain are not displayed). Tools: Hexagon socket key Pedal wrench Rivet gun Cordless drill Building steps: Abb. 208: The short chain tube is sticked through the chain tube guidance and... Abb. 209:...fixed on both sides by a rubber stopper. The stoppers are secured with cable straps. Abb. 210: The long chain tube is supposed to run under the vehicle. Abb. 211: Note that the chain here runs exactly under the chain in the chain tunnel.

32 Building steps: Abb. 212: When derailleur gear systems are used, the rear part of the chain tube has to be able to move. Abb. 213: Thus do not position the rear chain tube holder too close to the the end of the vehicle. Abb. 214: Position the chain tube such that the chain can run over well. Abb. 215: The chain tube is fixed by rupper stoppers on bot sides of the holders. Again, cable straps can be used to secure the rubbers Abb. 216: Fix the chain tube holders with tape and rivet them to the bottom. No later than now, chain idlers, the rear fork and the rear wheel should be mounted to the vehicle. The best way to insert the chain is to use one more piece of chain tube to get the chain through the rear fork. Then the individual pieces of chain can be easily inserted into the chain tubes and subsequently be connected. Please read the delivered gear system manual for assembly and adjustment of the gear system.

33 The brakes The brakes Once the struts are mounted, the brake system can be assembled. Turn the velomobile upsideup Required: Parts: Abb. 217: Brake cable casings. Abb. 218: Bag with brake parts, in detail the inner brake cables, and... Abb. 219: plate lead throughs,, Abb. 220: cable tensioning screw with nuts, Abb. 221: locking device, Abb. 223: cable casing bearings. Tools: Hexagon socket keys Wire cutter Abb. 224: handle bar.. Building steps: Abb. 225: There is a hole in the wheel house. The cable casings must be led through here. Abb. 226: The plate led through avoids damages to the cable casing. Abb. 227: Next to the mounting of the bottom bracket frame, there are similar holes.

34 The brakes Abb. 228: Put another lead-through here.. Abb. 229: After the handle bar is connected to the steering, the cable tensioning screws are sticked into place. Abb. 230: Now the cable casings can be sticked through the lead throughs. They run from the cable tensioning screws through both lead throughs to the brake. Abb. 231: The inner brake cables are hooked into the brake levers and led through the cable casings. The locking device is laced above the mounting of the cable tensioning screws. Abb. 232: The cable casing bearing is positioned between cable casing and release lever. Abb. 233: The cable casings are connected to the steering column and the strut with cable straps. Secure the cable strap by a second at the struts. Abb. 235: Check by seesawing the handle bar that... Abb. 236:...steering does not affect the brake shoes to march out. Abb. 237: Pressing the lever instead should do so. Abb. 238: The brake pads must be free of oil and fat at every time. The bearing may be wetted with a little oil. After the assembling of the brakes, the front wheels can be attached. CHECK THE CORRECT FUNCTION OF THE BRAKES BEFORE YOU RIDE IT FOR THE FIRST TIME. Check regularly, preferably before every ride, that the brakes work well and equally.

35 The nose cone The nose cone Now the nose cone can be assembled. Required: Parts: Abb. 239: Nose cone and head light.. Tools: Cordless drill Rivet gun Measuring tape Tape Building steps: Abb. 240: The head light is connecte to the nose cone by a mounting. Abb. 241: First find the right position for the mounting with sticked on head light. Abb. 242: Then drill through the cone and assemble the mounting. Abb. 243: Thus the nose cone is ready to be assembled. Abb. 244: Attach tape close to the nose rib at different locations... Abb. 245:...and mark at different distances.

36 The nose cone Abb. 246: Stick the nose cone on, controll the... Abb. 247: distance at a couple of positions. Fix the cone with tape Abb. 248: Finally fix the cone with a couple of rivets.

37 The seat The seat Only the seat is missing to ride. Required: Parts: Abb. 249: Seat shell. Abb. 250: Seat attachment parts 1 Abb. 251: Rear seat support. Abb. 252: Seat attachment parts 2 Tools: Hexagon socket keys Wrenches Building steps: Abb. 253: This is the way to attach the seat attachment parts 1 to the frame. It is recommended to choose the rear position.. Abb. 254: After assembling the rear seat support, the thread in the tube is not accessible anymore. Provide it with loctite! Abb. 255: Rear seat support, details.

38 The seat Abb. 256: Assemble the rear seat support in the vehicle. Abb. 257: Assembly of the seat attachment parts 2 to the seat shell, bottom end. Abb. 258: Assembly of the seat attachment parts 2 to the seat shell, upper end. Abb. 259: Assembly of the seat in the velomobile. Abb. 260: View onto the lower seat attachment.