ZSF TUTORIALS. Hard Paint Chipping
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1 ZSF TUTORIALS Hard Paint Chipping February 2010
2 1. Forewarning About Photoshop I make my skins with Photoshop CS3, but this tutorial will also suit for former versions down to Photoshop 7. If you use other software's (Gimp, Paint Shop Pro, etc.) you must adapt it accordingly. Well, since I'm French, I use a French version of Photoshop, thus menu options, tools names and so forth are in French, and since I don't have an English version of Photoshop I'm not able to translate them properly. I hope you won't mind it About this tutorial This tutorial is a set of hints and tips that come from my own skinning experience, from many tries and failures. They are suited to my "way of doing" and skill and produce a result that match with my expectations. But they are not universal rules; each one can change them to make them fit with its own skills. Warning! This is not a tutorial on how to use Photoshop. You must at least master some basic knowledge about: - Layers and layers groups - Fusion masks - Selection tools If you don't I'm afraid this tutorial will be helpless. 2. Getting started Skin layout Before starting, I would say a word regarding the layer organization as I use it in my PSD files. I always create at least one bare metal layer (or layer group) which I place at the bottom of the layer set. Then I place all the camo, markings, lettering, etc. in a layer group (Camo on the picture) Then I associate a fusion mask to the Camo group. This will allow me to create the paint chipping without altering underneath camo layers.
3 The Chipping tool box Here is the set of tools I much often use when I'm chipping the skin. Moving tool to move a selection Rectangular selection tool to select a area Polygonal selection tool to draw large chipping areas or to select specific elements of the layer Magic wand to select parts of a picture according the color of a defined area Brush tool typically I use the round brush (3px) and de pixelised brushes (14px and 24px). But you can use any brush you consider useful. In addition I use the brush dynamic settings to have the shape and size of my brush randomly change. Here is the dynamic brush configuration panel: Click here to select the brush Click here to open the panel. Click here to access the brush dynamic settings I let you discover all its facilities and chose the ones that you prefer for your own needs.
4 And the last here is a specific filter that sharpens selection borders, here is the French menu to access this filter: Where to chip? Well, if you got some picture or good profile, just do as shown. Otherwise you have to select areas where chipping is the more likely to occur (speaking of heavy chipping) - Wings roots - Fuselage sides near the cockpit access - Panels and engine coiling - Wings edges These areas are very often chipped, but other parts of the plane could suffer from chipping just because the paint quality is too bad to endure hard weather conditions or to cling hard enough to the bare metal (typically on Japanese planes). One more advice before you start Depending on the colors of the paint scheme of your skin, the bare metal layer may appear too bright when you erase the paint. So don't hesitate to create "adjustment" layer you will place between the bare metal and the camo layers. These adjustment layers are just filled with black and you tune the transparency of the layer too fit the contrast between metal and paint at the level you think the best.
5 3. How to do? Heavy Chipping Step 1 Select the area you want to chip with the polygonal selection tool. Give the area roughly the shape you want for the final effect. Step 2 Select the fusion mask of the Camo layer group and erase the selection. The bare metal layer appears under the removed paint. Step 3 With an irregular brush give the borders a sharp and irregular shape. The choice of the brush is up to you, but I suggest you to use brush dynamics to get a better result. Step 4 Continue this way until all the border has been made irregular. You can see that I've already started to create small areas around the main chipped area. Very often there are small chipped areas around large ones
6 Step 5 With a small round brush (3px) with dynamics, draw some paint patches inside the main area to simulate the paint that could still cling to the metal regardless of the stress it endure. Step 6 This is an important part of this tutorial. It deals how to use some texture drawings to help you to create realistic chipping effects. The first thing to do is to open aside your PSD skin file a BMP or JPEG picture of a metal texture (Beauhimmel had uploaded a very useful pack of these textures on Mission4Today). On this texture picture and with the magic wand tool you may select small areas looking as actual paint chips. Then copy and paste them over the camo layer group in a new layer. You may also redraw some part of the selection as you wish, to improve its shape and make it as exactly as you desire. Step 7 Once it is done, select the area of the layer that interests you with the rectangular selection tool. Then move the selection with the "moving tool" to make the selection fit exactly with the borders of the objects. Than hide the layer and go back to camo group fusion mask. Step 8 Then fill the selection as to "paint" some patches of the remaining paint. Repeat steps 6 to 8 as many times as you need it.
7 Step 9 At this stage you may redraw some parts of the area to give it a more realistic look. I suggest to do it with the 3px round brush with dynamics. At the end of the process you should have something that look like the picture on the left. Step 10 The final step will allow you to give the ultimate realistic touch to your chipped area. As you can see, the above picture shows that some borders are quite smooth (this is because the brush tools don't produce sharp edges). But in the real life paint chip edges are sharp and you must give your area this look. To achieve that, just select the area (rectangular or polygonal selection tool) and apply the "sharpening" filter I've mentioned in the tool box. If you consider that the filter didn't sharpen enough the borders you can use the filter several times. But after two times the result is getting worse and worse. If I don't get what I expect at the first time, I cancel the action and try to redraw the area before use the filter again. You may notice that sometimes the sharpening filter generates some extra pixels that spoil the final effects. If so, just erase them with the rubber tool Here we are! The area chipping is complete. You can repeat the process all around the plane now. Here is the final look with other weathering layers active. If you have created other weathering layers, I suggest you to hide them when chipping in order to see exactly what you're doing and to prevent from being misled by other things. The last advice I can give you is to be very patient, this process is quite long to perform but I think the result is in accordance with the work you produce. And know it is your turn!
8 Light Chipping If you want your skin to have only light chipping, you can place some chips along structure, panel or bolts lines, in order to simulate the beginning of the chipping process on the plane. In order to perform this task, proceed exactly as describe in steps 6 to 8 above. Just place the selections where you want to and to forget to sharpen the borders! You should get effects like this. 3. Epilogue I hope this tutorial had given you some help. If you think of anything to improve it, you can send me your suggestion at olivier.migeon@9online.fr.
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