CROCHET BARBIE. The pattern includes the crochet doll and her outfit. 1

Transcription

1 The pattern includes the crochet doll and her outfit. 1

2 FOR THE DOLL What do you need: lace yarn (at a recommended hook size of mm) for the body use a hook of size 1.00 mm for the body a preferred yarn for the hair (I used a red lace yarn, the same type as I used for the body) some wadding an up to 1.0 mm wire for the legs and arms thin scissors that are also used to assist in stuffing the narrow areas of the doll Skill level: intermediate Finished Size of the doll: appr. 14 cm Abbreviations: rd = round / sc = single crochet / inc = increase / dec = decrease / st, sts = stitch, stitches / sl st = slip stitch / ch = chain You crochet down-to-up, starting with the legs, and work in continuous rounds of single crochets, leaving an outline for the arms that are crocheted with a new yarn. How to read the instructions: To facilitate the reading, I abbreviate working several consecutive stitches as the number to be crocheted: e.g. 5 sc, inc (7) means that you work a sc in each of the next 5 sts and 2 sc in the 6 th stitch, getting a round of 7 sts. 4 sc, dec (5) means, likewise, working a sc in each of the next 4 sts and, then, crocheting the 5 th & 6 th st in a sc together, reducing the round from 6 to 5 sts. For the inc and dec sts, I shorten several consecutive increases/ decreases in terms of y-times (stated as x, i.e. yx inc or yx dec) 2x inc means that you increase the next 2 sts, thus, working 2 sc in each of the next 2 sc (4 sc in total); rd-inc by 2 sts. 3x dec means that you sc each of the next 3 2-sts together, thus, sc the 1 st & 2 nd sc together, the 3 rd & 4 th, and the 5 th & 6 th. The next rd is 3 sts lower. INFO-BOX 1: How to decrease stitches invisibly If you want to decrease sts without creating a noticeable decrease pattern or gaps, the invisible decrease (dec) is the perfect way to go: insert hook in each of the front loops of the st that you want to sc together (1). You now have three loops on your hook. YO and pull through the first two loops on your hook (2). YO again and pull through the two loops remaining on your hook (4). You have now invisibly decreased one st. 1 INFO-BOX 2: How to make a bobble stitch 2 ch 2, YO, insert hook into next st, YO and pull through the st (you have 3 lps on the hook now), YO again and pull through 2 of your loops on the hook [you ve got 2 loops on the hook now; if you would pull through all 3 lps instead, you would get a half double crochet]. Repeat the process on the same st: YO, insert hook into same st, YO and pull through the st, YO again and pull through 2 loops on the hook [you ve got 3 loops on the hook now]. Repeat the process on the same st a last time and close the bobble at the end by pulling through all remaining lps: YO, insert hook into same st, YO and pull through the st, YO again and pull through 2 loops on your hook [you ve got 4 lps on the hook now]. At last, YO again and pull through all loops on your hook. Depending on how thick you want the bobble to be, you repeat the process more often (we, in comparison, work 3- times on the same st) Trishagurumi All rights reserved. You may not sell, redistribute or publish this pattern. Final products made with this pattern can be sold if Trishagurumi is credited as the designer. 1 retrieved from (September 2017) 2 retrieved from (September 2017) CROCHET BARBIE 2 2

3 RIGHT LEG (from the doll s perspective) Chain 2 1. Rd: 6sc in 2 nd st from hook 2. Rd: 5 sc, inc (7) 3. Rd: 4 sc, 3x inc (10) 4. Rd: 4 sc, 3x dec (7) Rd: 1 sc each st around (7) 8. Rd: 6 sc, inc (8) 9. Rd: 7 sc, inc (9) 10. Rd: 8 sc, inc (10) 11. Rd: 9 sc, inc (11) 12. Rd: 10 sc, inc (12) Rd: 1 sc each st around (12) 15. Rd: 9 sc, dec, 1 (11) 16. Rd: 1 sc each st around (11) 17. Rd: 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, inc (11) 18. Rd: 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, inc (11) 19. Rd: 10 sc, inc (12) 20. Rd: 10 sc, inc, 1 sc (13) 21. Rd: 11 sc, inc, 1 sc (14) 22. Rd: 10 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc (16) Rd: 1 sc each st around (16) 27. Rd: 14 sc, dec (15) 28. Rd: 1 sc each st around (15) 29. Rd: 1 sc each of the next 5 sts, sl st the 5 th st and stop (do not finish the rd) LEFT LEG Work as above until the 29 th rd. In the 29 th round work 11 sc instead of 5 sc like in the right leg, then ch 3 and sc through the 6 th sc from the last round of the 1 st leg (the first of the left-out sts from the 29 th rd) to connect both legs by ch sts. INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE DOLL Place a marker and count anew. BUTTOCKS (continue with the round) For orientation, I underline the area that is worked for the buttocks. 30. Rd: 7 sc, 5x inc, 2 sc, 3sc along ch sts, 2 sc, 5x inc, 7 sc, 3 sc along ch sts (44) 31. Rd: 10 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 1 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 1 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 13 sc (46) 32. Rd: 11 sc, inc, 6 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 6 sc, inc, 14 sc (46) 33. Rd: 15 sc, inc, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, inc, 16 sc (46) 34. Rd: 20 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 20 (44) 35. Rd: 18 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 18 sc (42) 36. Rd: 17 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 17 sc (40) 37. Rd: 16 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 16 sc (38) 38. Rd: 15 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 15 sc (36) 39. Rd: 9 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 9 sc (34) Rd: 1 sc each st around (34) 43. Rd: 9 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 6 sc (32) 44. Rd: 1 sc each st around (32) Insert a 1.0 mm wire and stuff the legs and hips. The wire is about 15 cm length in total that you bend to get two parts of the same size. Insert each part into a leg so that the bended part lies in between the legs. Stuff the legs with the help of a thin scissor as far as you can. The feet and lower legs are considerably thin and the 1.0 mm wire is a sufficient stuffing for those parts; thus, insert the wadding to the upper leg only. Properly fill the butt and the hips and bend the feet. 45. Rd: 8 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 6 sc (30) 46. Rd: 9 sc, inc, 6 sc, dec, 6 sc, inc, 5 sc (31) 47. Rd: 1 sc each st around (31) 48. Rd: 9 sc, inc, 14, 4x inc, 3 (36) 49. Rd: 5 sc, 4x inc, 19 sc, 4x inc, 1 sc, dec, 1 sc (43) 50. Rd: 5 sc, dec, 1 sc, 4x inc, 29 sc, dec (45) 51. Rd: (2, dec) x2, 24 sc, ch 5 and sc in 3rd next st, dec, 6 sc, dec (42) 52. Rd: (2, dec) x2, 4 sc, dec, ch 5 and sc in 3rd next st, 13 sc, 5 sc along ch sts, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc (39) 53. Rd: 9 sc, dec, 5 sc along ch sts, 18 sc, dec, 5 sc (37) 54. Rd: 2 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 21 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 1 sc (33) 3

4 55. Rd: 5 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, (2, dec) x6, 1 sc (25) 56. Rd: (2, dec) x6, 3 sc (19) Work the ARMS now before continuing with the rest of the body. Thereby, take a new yarn, make a knot at the end of the yarn and insert the hook in one of the left-out sts (arm-outline) of the 51 st Rd. Yarn over and directly continue sc the next sts as follows: LEFT ARM: Rd: 1 sc each st around (7); include the transition st that connects the [5] ch sts from the arm-outline with the 54 th Rd 24. Rd: 1sc, bobble st in next st (3x in same st; see description in the introduction part), 5 sc Fold both sides together and sc them together (stitching 2 sc pairs together); weave in the yarn end. Insert a wire that connects both arms. Stuff the upper body, particularly the breasts. The arms are only stuffed with the wire. HEAD (continue with the round) 63. Rd: inc every st (14) 64. Rd: inc every st (28) 65. Rd: inc every 4 th st (35) From here, you can further stuff the upper body with the support of a thin scissor through the throat to achieve a firm shape 66. Rd: inc every 7 th st (40) Rd: 1 sc each st around (40) 78. Rd: 4 sc, 2x dec, 5 sc, 2x dec, 1 sc in the remaining sts (36) 79. Rd: 1 sc in each st around (36) 80. Rd: dec every 6 th st (5x), 1 sc rest (31) 81. Rd: dec every 3 rd st (7x), 3 sc rest (24) 82. Rd: dec every 2 nd st (8x) (16) Stuff the head. 83. Rd: dec every st and close the head RIGHT ARM: Rd: 1 sc each st around (7); include the transition st that connects the [5] ch sts from the armoutline with the 55 th Rd 24. Rd: 5 sc, BS, 1 sc Fold both sides together and sc them together (stitching 2 sc pairs together); weave in the yarn end. EARS (2x) Take a new yarn and work 5 sc in a magic ring. Repeat for the other ear. Sew the ears to the face in a total length of 4 rows between the 12 th +13 th row from above and 9 th +10 th row from above, approximately 19 sts apart; the ears are approximately in the vertical line to the arms. 57. Rd: dec every 3 rd st, 1 sc rest (16) 58. Rd: dec every st (8x) (8) 59. Rd: 1 sc in each st around (8) 60. Rd: dec, 6 sc (7) THROAT (continue with the round) Rd: 1 sc in each st around (7) 4

5 NOSE Take a new yarn and thread it between the 10 th st in the round of the ear-ends to a round below (the nose is about 3 rows length) BELLY BUTTON With a new skin-coloured yarn work a belly button by stitching on the 9 th row from the bottom. Stitch twice firmly from between the butt cheeks to the belly button and back to add on shape! EYES The eyes consist of 2 simple stitches with a ply yarn (strong thread). Take two strands of black yarn and, together, thread them in the 1 st row above the nose-begin and about 1 st aside. Work diagonally (form a right triangle per eye), covering 2 rows. The eyes are, at the bottom, 2 or 3 [empty] sts apart. Alternatively, use safety eyes of about 3 mm. MOUTH The lips are made using two strands of pink-orange or red coloured ply yarn similar to the eyes. The upper lip s length is 6 sts, the lower lip lies on 3 sts, and the lips go altogether through 3 rows. HAIR The hair is worked in strands of lace yarn (I chose pink for the colour). Each stitch is being filled up to the middle of the back of the head. For each hair strand, insert the hook through two stitches of vertical rows, take one piece of yarn with the hook and pull it back through the two sts. Now, you ve got a loop on one side and two yarn ends on the other side. With the hook or your fingers pull both yarn ends through the loop to create a knot. Stretch the yarn ends to close the knot firmly. Continue those steps for each hair strand until you ve covered the top of the head and got your desired hair density. Start at the top of the head and thread in the 1 st row below nose-end about 3 sts aside. Stitch in the 5 th st to the right and continue going from the inside to the lower lips. Stitch them in between 1 st and then work the sides. Pull the thread ends tightly in order to shape the head on the lips and knot the ends together. 5

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7 FOR THE OUTFIT What do you need: lace yarn (at a recommended hook size of mm) in blue (for the shorts), light-violet (for the top), and beige (for the shorts-details) use a hook of size 1.00 mm Skill level: intermediate The outfit consists of jeans-shorts a crop top Abbreviations: rd = round / sc = single crochet / dc = double crochet / inc = increase / dec = decrease / st, sts = stitch, stitches / sl st = slip stitch / ch = chain How to read the instructions: See description for the doll INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE OUTFIT SHORTS The shorts are worked with a blue-coloured yarn at a recommended hook size of mm (the same yarn size you used for the body of the doll). At each round end, ch 1 and turn your work, unless it states that you continue crocheting in continuous rounds. ch Rd: 1 sc in each ch st around (36) [ch 1 + turn] 2. Rd: 18 sc, inc, 17 sc (37) 3. Rd: 11 sc, inc, 13 sc, inc, 11 sc (39) 4. Rd: 11 sc, inc, 15 sc, inc, 11 sc (41) 5. Rd: 12 sc, inc, 15 sc, inc, 12 sc (43) 6. Rd: 12 sc, inc, 17 sc, inc, 12 sc (45) 7. Rd: 12 sc, inc, 19 sc, inc, 12 sc (47) Rd: 1 sc in each st around (47) Connect both sides of the last round with a sl st and continue working in continuous rounds: 10. Rd: 1 sc in each st around (47) 11. Rd: count 24 sc and work a sc into the 24 th sc to create two equally sized outlines for the legs. Continue working on the left leg [from the view of the doll] 12. Rd: 1 sc in each st around (24) Weave in the yarn end and continue with a new yarn on the right leg: 12. Rd: 1 sc in each st around (24) Weave in the yarn end, put the trousers onto the doll and use the beginning yarn end to sew the top of the trousers on the doll together. Thereby, the sides to be closed have to be in the front. CROP TOP For the top, use another colour of the same yarn type. At each round end, ch 1 and turn your work Trishagurumi All rights reserved. You may not sell, redistribute or publish this pattern. Final products made with this pattern can be sold if Trishagurumi is credited as the designer. PATTERN PATTERN BY BY TRISHAGURUMI TRISHAGURUMI ch Rd: inc every 2 nd st (36) 2. Rd: inc every 6 th st (42) 3. Rd: inc every 7 th st (48) 4. Rd: inc every 8 th st (54) Rd: 1 sc in each st around (54) 7. Rd: 7 sc, count 11 and sc in the 11 th st (left arm-outline), 19 sc, count another 11 sc and sc in the 11 th st (right arm-outline) Rd: 1 sc in each st around (35) 7

8 Put your work on the doll so that the backside is open and sew both sides of the work on the back together. DETAILS ON THE SHORTS Take a white or beige yarn of the same size like before and sew the outlines typical for jeans on the trousers: starting from the side-lines to double-lines on the back of the shorts, to sidepockets and the pockets at the back. The output can look something like this: 8