Rapid LED NanoCube 28 CF Quad Retrofit

Size: px

Start display at page:

Download "Rapid LED NanoCube 28 CF Quad Retrofit"

Peter Daniels
6 years ago
Views:

1 1 Rapid LED NanoCube 28 CF Quad Retrofit Contents Foreword... 1 Outline... 2 Hood Preparation... 2 Attaching LEDs to Heatsink and Wiring LEDs Together... 6 Thermal Grease... 6 Soldering Notes... 7 Tinning Wire and LEDs... 7 Tinning LEDs... 8 Wiring the LED String(s)... 8 Attaching the Heatsink to the NC28 CF Quad Hood Wiring Fans Wiring the LED Strings to the Drivers Wiring the Driver to AC Power Using a Meanwell Dimmable Driver (Skip if using a non dimmable driver) Wiring the Driver Dimmer Wires Adjusting Driver Current Do this before applying power Adjusting Driver Current with a Multimeter Using a Rapid LED Nano Dimmable Driver with 700mA Max. Current (Skip if not using this driver) Finish Foreword As with any type of lighting retrofit, there are many dangers, difficulties, and pitfalls that may occur. The NC28 CF Quad retrofit should be attempted by those familiar with AC power and wiring, electronics, LEDs, LED Drivers, soldering LEDs, series circuits, and be comfortable with the fact that this retrofit will require complete disassembly and removal of some contents of the original hood. If you are uncomfortable with potential hazards, dangers, or pitfalls that may occur in the course of performing this retrofit, you should not attempt this retrofit. NOTE: These instructions are for installing the

2 2 individual LEDs in your hood. If you are using the kit with an Aurora array, refer to the instructions located here: JBJ Nanocube 28 CF Quad Aurora Array Instructions Outline Here is a general outline of steps we think end up with the easiest retrofit: 1. Remove unnecessary components from hood 2. Attach LEDs to heatsink and wire up LED string. Insert heatsink into hood. 3. Complete wiring for LEDs, driver and fans 4. Close hood and test Hood Preparation In this step, we will remove: Plastic and glass cover / splash guard CF Quad Bulb o Thermostat o Ground Wire Ballast Fan Power Transformer Original Power cord First, remove all screws holding down the plastic cover. Remove it along with the glass.

On the back side, it has a ground wire and a thermostat attached to it.

3 3 Next, remove the two screws holding down the CF Quad Bulb. Remove them and unclip the blub. Next, remove the two screws on the right side of the reflector. The reflector is almost free from the hood. On the back side, it has a ground wire and a thermostat attached to it. Gently lift the reflector from the hood, flip it over and remove the thermostat which is attached by nuts and bolts in the center of the reflector and cut the ground wire. After this is done, remove the reflector. Next, unclip the CF Quad bulb and remove it.

4 4 Your hood should look like the picture below: To remove the ballast, press down on the spring terminals on the end and pull the wires out: Unscrew both ends and lift the ballast from the hood:

5 To remove the original fan power transformer, unscrew the two mounting screws and cut the blue and brown wires

We want the brown and blue wires long so we can attach our own AC adapter to them later (to power the fans).

The power wire is thick and can be difficult to cut, please exercise care when cutting this wire.

5 5 To remove the original fan power transformer, unscrew the two mounting screws and cut the blue and brown wires as close to the white wire crimps as possible. We want the brown and blue wires long so we can attach our own AC adapter to them later (to power the fans). Next, cut the power wire from the hood, in between the outermost inlet and the lighting inlet. The power wire is thick and can be difficult to cut, please exercise care when cutting this wire. After it is cut, remove the inner end of the power wire and all wires attached to it, including the transformer. We ll use the hole to route the power wires for the LEDs later on. At this point, your hood should be prepped.

6 Attaching LEDs to Heatsink and Wiring LEDs Together In the next set of steps, we will attach the LEDs to the heatsink, tin the LEDs and the wire used to connect the LEDs together, and then wire the

Thermal Grease We need to apply thermal grease to the back of each LED before securing it to the heatsink.

6 6 Attaching LEDs to Heatsink and Wiring LEDs Together In the next set of steps, we will attach the LEDs to the heatsink, tin the LEDs and the wire used to connect the LEDs together, and then wire the LEDs together. After all of this is complete, we will insert the heatsink into the hood of the NC28 HQI. Thermal Grease We need to apply thermal grease to the back of each LED before securing it to the heatsink. Thermal grease ensures proper thermal conductivity of heat away from the LED into the heatsink. A very small dab of grease on the back of each LED is all that is necessary. More is NOT necessarily better. Too little will lower conductivity and too much will create a mess. A thin layer works best. The photo below indicates approximately about how much thermal grease should be applied.

After the thermal grease has been applied to the star, screw it into the heatsink with two little screws, adjusting the height of the two fastening screws to center the LED between them.

7 After the thermal grease has been applied to the star, screw it into the heatsink with two little screws, adjusting the height of the two fastening screws to center the LED between them. Do not over tighten. The screws should be snug but not tight. When screwing down the LEDs, ensure the screw is not touching any solder or solder pads. This will ground the string at that point and cause strange behavior and possibly, damage. The included nylon washers will aid in insulating the screws from the LED. Example of properly secured LEDs: 7 Soldering Notes Now that the LEDs are securely attached to the heatsink with thermal grease, any heat applied to the solder pads (the little gold pads) of the LEDs will be quickly conducted away into the heatsink. When soldering, this will be a problem if your soldering iron does not have a clean, tinned tip (new is best) or does not have enough power we recommend at least a 50 watt soldering iron. An iron that does not produce enough heat will fail to melt the solder properly. This can result in a cold solder joint which has a very high probability of creating a short/intermittent connection, which has a high probability of destroying all of your LEDs. You should at most take 1 5 seconds to complete each solder joint. Leaving the iron touching a solder pad for longer than that is not advised. It also probably means your soldering iron is not hot enough or the wattage is too low. Tinning Wire and LEDs Tinning is the process of pre coating the wire, or solder pad, in the case of an LED, with solder. Tinned wire and solder pads are more easily soldered together than non tinned components. This step is to save headache and trouble later attempting to solder un tinned components can cause huge problems down the line. To tin wire, heat the wire (not the solder) with the tip of a clean soldering iron for a few seconds. After the wire is heated, apply solder to the wire (not the tip of the iron). Since solder flows towards heat sources, it should melt on to and flow through the strands of the wire, coating them evenly. There are two photos below. The left is of un tinned wire, the right is of the same wire tinned.

8 Tinning LEDs LEDs are tinned similarly to wire. Press the tip of the soldering iron to the LED solder pad and apply solder near the tip of the iron. You do not need too much solder.

If the pad does not get warm enough, the solder will not adhere well. Ensure some heat gets into the solder pad, but not too much.

8 8 Tinning LEDs LEDs are tinned similarly to wire. Press the tip of the soldering iron to the LED solder pad and apply solder near the tip of the iron. You do not need too much solder. You can tin all of the solder pads or only the ones you will use. The top photo below is an un tinned LED. The photo below it has the bottom left solder pad tinned. If the pad does not get warm enough, the solder will not adhere well. Ensure some heat gets into the solder pad, but not too much. Wiring the LED String(s) *****NEVER APPLY POWER TO THE LED DRIVER BEFORE ALL WIRING IS COMPLETE ***** For the NC28 CF Quad Retrofit, your heatsink will have spaces for 24 LEDs, but you can only use 20. Leave the rightmost or leftmost column empty. Newer kits will have a green heatsink, but the functionality and instructions are the same. Below are two photos of what your heatsink might look like if you are using Rapid LED Solderless LEDs:

The string is a series circuit wired + to (or to +, depending on where you start) starting from one wire on the driver, from LED to

9 9 Heatsink With 8 Solderless LEDs Heatsink With 20 Solderless LEDs. Leftmost column unused. If you will be soldering your LEDs, wiring the LEDs is done as a string in series. The string is a series circuit wired + to (or to +, depending on where you start) starting from one wire on the driver, from LED to LED, to the other wire on the driver. Below is a photograph of 13 Royal Blue XT E LEDs wired together and marked + to all the way around with the string beginning with the leftmost + in the photo. Again, do NOT power the driver

10 until the wiring is complete. You risk burning out your LEDs, a very expensive mistake. Repeat this process for each LED string. You may have a separate driver for blue and white LEDs.

10 10 until the wiring is complete. You risk burning out your LEDs, a very expensive mistake. Repeat this process for each LED string. You may have a separate driver for blue and white LEDs. If you do, ensure you attach at least the minimum number of LEDs for the particular model driver you have. Attaching the Heatsink to the NC28 CF Quad Hood There are 4 screws that attach the NC28 heatsink to the hood, two on each side. Simply place the heatsink over the 4 mounting posts in the hood that line up with the heatsink holes and screw the heatsink to the hood. The screws only take a few twists to secure the heatsink to the hood. Be very careful to not over tighten the heatsink mounting screws as it is especially easy to do so with this retrofit. Please note that newer kits will come with our green anodized nano tank heatsink instead of a traditional silver heatsink. The holes and installation instructions will be identical, and you can use this hole diagram for installation.

11 11 Wiring Fans The fans will be powered by the 12V AC adapter included with your kit. We will use it to power the fans by connecting it to the brown and blue wires from the PCB in the NC28 HQI hood. Cut the end off of the included 12V AC adapter. Run the AC adapter wire through the vent slot nearest the moonlight AC Adapter Jack.

12 Now, route the AC Adapter wire through the rubber grommet as

Next, separate the AC Adapter wires down the middle until they

Strip off approximately half an inch of the outer jacket from

12 12 Now, route the AC Adapter wire through the rubber grommet as pictured below on the right. Next, separate the AC Adapter wires down the middle until they are approximately an inch long. Strip off approximately half an inch of the outer jacket from each wire. You should now have the AC Adapter wires and PCB brown and blue wires near each other so they can be connected together by wire nuts.

13 Next, connect the brown and blue PCB wires to the AC adapter wires. Which wire to which is not important (because it is rectified). 13

14 Wiring the LED Strings to the Drivers To modify as little as possible in the original hood, we will use jumper wires to run from the drivers to the LED strings inside the hood.

14 14 Wiring the LED Strings to the Drivers To modify as little as possible in the original hood, we will use jumper wires to run from the drivers to the LED strings inside the hood. Included in the kit are some long lengths of bulk wire. You will need to make jumper wire from the bulk wire by cutting it into lengths of your choice. The jumper wires need to be long enough to run from V+ and V of each driver to the red (+) and black ( ) wires on each string of your solderless kit or to + and of the corresponding LEDs in the string you are attaching the driver to. After you have cut the bulk wire into jumpers, use grey wire nuts to attach the jumper wire to a driver. Run the jumper wire from the driver through the same hole in the case which the fan AC adapter wire was run and then through the grommet where the original power wire used to run. Attach the wire, using wire nuts, to the corresponding wires from your solderless LED string or solder them to + and of the corresponding LEDs in the string you are attaching the driver to. Repeat for the second driver.

15 15 Below is a photo of the jumper wires wired to the LED strings with wire nuts. Wiring the Driver to AC Power

16 16 BE CAREFUL WHEN WORKING WITH 120VAC. Ensure nothing is plugged in before proceeding! The AC Line and Neutral, or ACL and ACN wires, which are brown and blue, connect to the power cord included in our kits. Strip the white and black wires of the power cord (green is ground and unused) and attach them to the blue and brown wires on the driver with the included moisture resistant wire nuts. Order is not important because AC current alternates. Obviously, this step is dangerous because you are working with 120VAC. Make sure nothing is plugged in and have a licensed electrician assist you with this step. Using a Meanwell Dimmable Driver (Skip if using a non dimmable driver) Wiring the Driver Dimmer Wires

There are 4 output wires on a dimmable driver as in the above photo. The dimming wires, DIM + (blue), and DIM (white), simply hook up to the respective ports on your controller or dimmer.

17 There are 4 output wires on a dimmable driver as in the above photo. The dimming wires, DIM + (blue), and DIM (white), simply hook up to the respective ports on your controller or dimmer. Dimmable drivers must have the dimmer wires hooked up to a controller or dimmer or the LEDs will not light up. No dimming signal = 0% brightness. If you do not have a dimming circuit or controller, you can test by applying a voltage to the Dimmer + and Dimmer wires on the driver. This voltage can range from 1 10V. Do NOT exceed 10V or you risk damaging the dimming circuitry. A 1V reference voltage will light the LEDs to 10% brightness, whereas a 10V reference voltage will light the LEDs to 100% brightness. You likely have something around your house that can supply a reference voltage. A wall wart, 9V battery, or even a AA battery can be used for testing. Be sure to test the actual output voltage of your wall wart with a multimeter before use unregulated wall warts will output much greater than the output voltage on the label when used with small loads. Adjusting Driver Current Do this before applying power To adjust the driver output current, open the driver by removing the 4 screws and very gently rotate SVR2 counter clockwise until it stops. Counter clockwise rotation lowers output current and clockwise rotation raises output current. We have just set current to the minimum. Adjust maximum driver current such that it does not exceed the specification of your LEDs! 17 Adjusting Driver Current with a Multimeter To adjust the driver output to a specific value, you must first wire a multimeter into your LED string and second, you must ensure the DIM+ and DIM wires are connected to a dimmer. The dimmer should be set to full brightness. The multimeter should be wired into your LED string exactly the same as an LED, + to, in fact, if you just pretend it is an LED, you will have no problem measuring current. If you wire the multimeter in backwards, it will still work, but your measurements will be negative instead of positive.

18 To set your multimeter up for measuring current, move the RED probe plug to the 10A socket and rotate the knob to the 10A position. Multimeters can differ in operation.

18 18 To set your multimeter up for measuring current, move the RED probe plug to the 10A socket and rotate the knob to the 10A position. Multimeters can differ in operation. Please consult your multimeter manual for model specific operating instructions. As in the photo below on the right, have a friend firmly hold the probes in a gap in the LED string. We had to remove a wire in an existing setup for this example. If either probe loses contact with a solder pad on either LED, do NOT re touch it to the LED until power has been removed from the driver for a few minutes, and then start over from the beginning. The following should be complete before applying power to the driver: SVR2 has been gently rotated counter clockwise until it stops (set to minimum current) DIM+ and DIM wires on driver are connected to a dimmer Dimmer is set to 100% brightness (10VDC MAX) Multimeter is turned on and set up to measure current Multimeter is wired into LED string as if it were an LED Once all of the above have been completed, power the driver and rotate SVR2 clockwise until the readout on the multimeter displays the desired output current for 100% brightness. In the below photos, the current begins at.25a, or 250mA. SVR2 was rotated clockwise until the desired maximum current,.75a, or 750mA. In our example, we wired our probes backwards, thus the sign. When measuring current, you can ignore the sign because we are only interested in the absolute amount of current flowing through the LED string. Switching the multimeter leads around would have would have flipped the sign around to +(no sign) in this example.

Current (Skip if not using this driver) The Rapid LED Dimmable Driver with 700mA Maximum current is a 0 10V analog driver.

19 19 Now that you have set the current on your driver by rotating SVR2, un plug the driver, replace the cover, and re wire your LED string. Using a Rapid LED Nano Dimmable Driver with 700mA Max. Current (Skip if not using this driver) The Rapid LED Dimmable Driver with 700mA Maximum current is a 0 10V analog driver. Simply hook up the wires from your 0 10V lighting controller to the corresponding ports on the driver. They attach with screw terminals. Once again, ensure all wiring is complete before applying any power! Finish Tuck the jumper wires coming off of the LED strings into a slot in the heatsink compartment and then replace the glass and plastic cover. Enjoy!

20 20

21 21

Assembly Instructions for the 1.5 Watt Amplifier Kit

Assembly Instructions for the 1.5 Watt Amplifier Kit 1.) All of the small parts are attached to a sheet of paper indicating both their value and id. 2.) Leave the parts affixed to the paper until you are