Tools and Materials which will be needed to assemble the Tenayo electric-guitar kit A rasp, different files and sandpapers with variably granulation f

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Antonia Sparks
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The first acceptable representative electric guitars were built by Adolph Rickenbacker and George Beauchamp at the beginning of the 30s in the last century.

1 Tenayo TK-EG-TC1 E-Guitar KIT Tele -like: Facts & Manual Text und photos by Michael Koch At all: Electric guitars were built to play loud and hard!!! And finally acoustic guitars were much too faint to get through really within bigger ensembles or even orchestras. The first acceptable representative electric guitars were built by Adolph Rickenbacker and George Beauchamp at the beginning of the 30s in the last century. But the very first serial model with a semi hollow body was constructed and distributed by the US American company GIBSON around The still very famous and by now deceased Les Paul followed them up around 1941 with his first Solidbody version of the electric guitar. It was an instrument with a massive body and neck through construction which was able to diminish possible feedbacks the semi hollow body guitars produced very often quite well. From this time on the triumphal procession of the electric guitar couldn t have been stopped anymore. Only a few decades later the position of modern Rock- and Jazz-Guitarist should have been compared with the same star violinist had until this time in orchestras. Great musicians like Hendrix helped pushing the electric guitar for their final breakthrough in the mid of the 1960s. He was followed up by more and more other unforgettable guitar heroes and virtuous players like Eric Clapton (Cream), Jimmy Page (Led Zeppelin), Angus Young (AC/DC), Eddie Van Halen (Van Halen), Robert Fripp (King Crimson), Alex Lifeson (Rush), Brian May (Queen), David Gilmour (Pink Floyd), Steve Howe (Yes), Ritchie Blackmore (Deep Purple), Steve Vai (Frank Zappa & Solo), Joe Satriani (Solo), Adrian Belew (David Bowie, Talking Heads, King Crimson), Vernon Reid (Living Colour) and much more But we won t waste too much time with things like this because we d like to assemble our own electric guitar. So spending only a little of our precious time for this I would carefully recommend We actually offer around 15 different electric-guitar and e-bass kits by Tenayo including nearly all popular shapes and models. A few of them we provide as left hand models too. But all kits are very easy to handle. Even assembling is possible and not very difficult for nonprofessional instrument builders of all levels. Our TK-EG-TC1 Kit is including the pre and well shaped massive body. All panels for the neck, pick-ups, potis, switch, bridge and the electric parts still exist. The neck with its Trussrod, fingerboard and even the frets are well pre shaped and handled. So all wooden parts which are included in the kit must be only fine sandpapered and finished. Furthermore the kit is including a typical TC- Bridge with the bridge pickup (which is still a single coil), a black pick guard, 1 typical neck pickup, two potis (volume & tone) which have already assembled on a chrome plate together with a 3-way toggle switch, the output jack, 1 red cable for ground to bridge, 4 large chrome wood screws for fixing the neck together with a chrome cover plate and a black plastic washer, 6 tuner machine heads (with ring washers, sleeves and wood screws), 6 standard guitar strings, 2 hex tip screwdriver, 2 strap holders with rubber washers and screws and one standard guitar cable.

Tools and Materials which will be needed to assemble the Tenayo electric-guitar kit A rasp, different files and sandpapers with variably granulation for a fine rose Different metal files 1

plier Different screwdrivers or a battery powered electric screwdriver 1 wood drill and a cutter A electric soldering iron and some tin for wiring the potis, PUs and the output jack Oil (in

must be connected together. While doing this you got to keep care on the exact fit because the neck has to sit absolutely straight after fixing it. Please check the three photos below too.

If not: take a file and a bit of sandpaper and remove softly some overcoming wooden parts. And please do not press the neck into its room with using force.

After all the neck can be fixed with the 4 big wood-screws, the chrome plate and the plastic washer on the backside of the body - please check the 2 rd photo above too.

2 Tools and Materials which will be needed to assemble the Tenayo electric-guitar kit A rasp, different files and sandpapers with variably granulation for a fine rose Different metal files 1 block for sandpapering Fill-in for wood repair 1 rubber-mallet or a small hammer Rubber stripes, wooded wedges or a small scratchpad to prevent damage on screws while hammering A flat nose plier Different screwdrivers or a battery powered electric screwdriver 1 wood drill and a cutter A electric soldering iron and some tin for wiring the potis, PUs and the output jack Oil (in case the instrument shall be finished with that) Different lacquers and colors (if wished) Seersucker adhesive tape (to prevent stains while coloring) First steps Initially the neck and body must be connected together. While doing this you got to keep care on the exact fit because the neck has to sit absolutely straight after fixing it. Please check the three photos below too. But the neck should fit into the pre shaped hole at the neck rudiment on the guitar body without getting any trouble. If not: take a file and a bit of sandpaper and remove softly some overcoming wooden parts. And please do not press the neck into its room with using force. This can result into damaging the parts. After all the neck can be fixed with the 4 big wood-screws, the chrome plate and the plastic washer on the backside of the body - please check the 2 rd photo above too. If any slits or spaces occur at the rudiment between neck and body you got to eliminate that with some fill-in. But if the neck fits correctly this should not happen (photo 3 above). You can give the headstock your own desired design later (please check the photo on the left). Before you operate with saw and file and you don t like the result for perhaps after finishing - a pencil and a rubber is an excellent help supporting and correcting the evolution of your own special art-work.

Sandpapering and finishing your guitar Please check if there are no spaces or damages on the wood which has to be repaired potentially.

child s bum. If there are any frets which feel sharp at their edges, last improvements can now be done with a flat and fine metal-file.

But oiling should be repeated a few times within days to get a good effect. Possibly you have to use fine sandpapers again between these processes.

3 Sandpapering and finishing your guitar Please check if there are no spaces or damages on the wood which has to be repaired potentially. If all these things have been done all wooden parts of the instrument should be handled with different sandpapers (down to the finest granulation) until you re satisfied or the guitar feels like a child s bum. If there are any frets which feel sharp at their edges, last improvements can now be done with a flat and fine metal-file. Now all wooden parts can be oiled or colored with different lacquers. Oiling can be done with a standard vegetable or olive oil. You only need a primitive cotton flap. But oiling should be repeated a few times within days to get a good effect. Possibly you have to use fine sandpapers again between these processes. If lacquering is wanted you should check for professional help (like literature or so) in front of doing that. But please take care on all parts which shall not be lacquered at all. To prevent stains on the fretboard or other parts you can use seersucker adhesive tape for bonding them in front of doing the coloring or so. You can finish the guitar part by part too. Assembling the Hardware After having finished with oiling and lacquering at all the whole hardware can be set up. In advance putting in the T- bridge (featuring the three saddles and the bridge single coil) the red cable of the pretty assembled PU has to be lead through its channel to the electric panel. Please both photos on the left. The yellow one of the neck PU is still coming out at the right place. Important is: the blank end of the ground cable (please check photo 1 on the left) has to be clamped underneath the bridge plate!!! This will prevent that both single-coils produce too much of that loud droning later on - while playing over a guitar amplifier. Both cables - the red PU and the ground cable - have to be soldered later on with the volume poti. Each time the blank ground strands (ground) of both PU cables have to be soldered with the poti top the white and hot strand must been soldered at its complying point on the switch. The other blank end of the ground cable has to be soldered onto the volume poti. But how to do this at all is explained much better on the following two pages!!

Soldering of the PUs, potis, 3-way switch and the output-jack In this kit all PUs and the potis have been pre assembled. So only a few cables have to be soldered at its complying place.

Basically every time all wiring and the solder joints shall be checked one more time again by reference of the wiring diagram on the following page - because at this point you can prevent

4 Soldering of the PUs, potis, 3-way switch and the output-jack In this kit all PUs and the potis have been pre assembled. So only a few cables have to be soldered at its complying place. Please check the photo underneath too. But: Sometimes the wiring is not correct. Basically every time all wiring and the solder joints shall be checked one more time again by reference of the wiring diagram on the following page - because at this point you can prevent malfunctions and static noises like droning. If all remaining cables and cable strands have been soldered the mounting panel with the potis and the switch should be turned around carefully and put into the pre shaped electric panel. Then it only has to be fixed with the two appropriate wood screws. On the first photo on the left you can see very well the place of each poti and the 3- way switch. The volume poti is the one directly aside the toggle - the tone poti can be seen on the left. And please do not forget soldering the ground cable onto the volume potis top too and leading the two cables (hot and ground) for the output jack through the pre shaped mill (2 nd photo on the left). Finally these ones have to be soldered with the inner and outer ring of the output jack which is displayed at the wiring diagram on the next page. The jack itself can now be fixed with the 4 small wood screws at the rib downside.

5 Wiring diagram for the Tenayo TK-EG-TC1 kit

Installing the tuner machine heads Yet the machine heads respective the tuner vertebras can be set up. How to do that is shown very well on the three photos underneath.

Attention: The loop ends of the wood screws have to point skew to the middle respective the rudiment of the headstock.

Getting on the strings, assembling the string guides and tuning the strings If really all other works on the guitar have finished, every part has been fixed, nothing is wiggling

Principally one should start with the 1st (that s the thinnest or highest respectively the high e ) and proceeding with the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, down to the 6th - that s the

The upper end (that s the one without ball) has to be put into the machine head and wired up by rotating the head into direction of the headstocks tip.

If you cannot trust your ears you should confide to a usual in trade tuner If some strings touch the frets after tuning the height of the saddles on the bridge can be adjusted a

6 Installing the tuner machine heads Yet the machine heads respective the tuner vertebras can be set up. How to do that is shown very well on the three photos underneath. All machines have to be fixed at the backside of the headstock with the small wood screws which are also included in the kit. Attention: The loop ends of the wood screws have to point skew to the middle respective the rudiment of the headstock. But most of the time all of these the holes are pre drilled so this should not be a further problem. Getting on the strings, assembling the string guides and tuning the strings If really all other works on the guitar have finished, every part has been fixed, nothing is wiggling or slackly and all possible holes have been patched by some putty yet the guitar can be stringed. Principally one should start with the 1st (that s the thinnest or highest respectively the high e ) and proceeding with the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, down to the 6th - that s the thickest one, the low E. All strings have to be put in through the holes of the tail bridge - from the backside. The upper end (that s the one without ball) has to be put into the machine head and wired up by rotating the head into direction of the headstocks tip. How to lead all strings in an optimal way is shown on the photo underneath. The guitar has to be tuned upwards from the thickest string (that s No 6) in E, A, D, G, b, e. If you cannot trust your ears you should confide to a usual in trade tuner If some strings touch the frets after tuning the height of the saddles on the bridge can be adjusted a bit with the help of a hexagon wrench. Read more on this at the next page. On the left: From the angle of the beholder all strings are lead from the inside to the outside. Furthermore you can perceive the position of both string guides. These ones have to be fixed with their small screws in between the strings. The holes for this should be pre drilled because it is too hard getting the screws in without. The string guides push always two of the higher strings a bit down making more pressure on them preventing that these ones touch the upper frets later or buzzing.

Calibrating the Trussrod After the guitar has been tuned again it occurs relatively often that the neck is slightly too skew or much too concave.

In advance doing this the strings got to be loosening again a bit. In the bay there s a hexagon socket screw.

This is much better for the playing action. If the string action is now too low you can adjust that with the help of the three saddles on the tail bridge plate.

7 Calibrating the Trussrod After the guitar has been tuned again it occurs relatively often that the neck is slightly too skew or much too concave. In because of this the Trussrod has to be calibrated with the Allen wrench at this point. The access you can find at the rudiment of the headstock upside the nut. Please check the photo on the right. In advance doing this the strings got to be loosening again a bit. In the bay there s a hexagon socket screw. This screw has to be rotated into direction of your body (clockwise) till you feel a resistance clearly - and the neck is getting visually straight. But please keep the neck slightly concave. This is much better for the playing action. If the string action is now too low you can adjust that with the help of the three saddles on the tail bridge plate. Changing their height or declination can be done by using a small Allen wrench. Finally the guitar has to be tuned one more time again. Clearing the fret intonation Snatched barely ahead the 12 th the tuner has to display exactly the same tone (note) as by strumming the open string. If this tone is a bit too high the complying string saddle has to be moved a bit into direction of the rear part of the guitar by rotating its screw at the back of the tail bridge - in the opposite case into direction of the fingerboard. This preset has to be made for each single string. Fixing the strap holders At least the two pins (which are included in all kits) for holding the guitar strap later on can be fixed in the middle of the rib downside (check the 2 nd photo on the left) and at the upper horn of the guitars body (check the 1 st photo on the left). It is better to mark the position in advance with a lead pencil. After that you should make a hole by using a gouge or a light drill. Then the two pins have to be fixed with their complying screws by using the small black rubber ring-washers in between the wood and the strap holders themselves. So get a move on and have a lot of fun while playing your first home-made electric guitar by TENAYO!!! PS.: The original and full colored version of this fine manual can be requested via info@mm-wo.de Attention!!! All Electric equipment can usually not be disposed with your household refuse!! This guitar kit is including parts which do not belong into domestic waste too!!! All these parts have to be brought to your local collecting point or recycling depot. Our WEEE-Registration-Number is DE

Tools and Materials which will be needed to assemble the Tenayo electric-guitar kit A rasp, different files and sandpapers with variably granulation f

Tools and Materials which will be needed to assemble the Tenayo electric-guitar kit A rasp, different files and sandpapers with variably granulation f Tenayo TK-EG-ST1 E-Guitar KIT Strat -like: Facts & Manual Text und Fotos von Michael Koch At all: Electric guitars were built to play loud and hard!!! And finally acoustic guitars were much too faint to