Building Gundam Models: Advanced Panel. Intros Simple tricks to improve finish Perfect finish! Make it shine! Now Break it!

Transcription

1 Building Gundam Models: Advanced Panel Intros Simple tricks to improve finish Perfect finish! Make it shine! Now Break it! Contests

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3 Using glue Using glue in some key sections in the skeleton can help make the model sturdier. You can use glue to close gaps between pieces. Gundams don t need much glue. Use very small amounts, mostly or only around the pin/hole sections. Test fit the parts before applying glue, make sure you re gluing the correct parts

4 Using Glue Regular plastic glue/cement melts the plastic and welds it together. Takes several minutes to fully dry, and can t be used as a filler for gaps. Gel superglue dries faster, and can be used as a filler for gaps. Liquid superglue is not recommended. More difficult to control, dries too fast.

5 Be careful Not to glue your fingers If there s glue on you, stop working on the model immediately and wash your hands. Super glue fumes will frost clear parts. Keep them away from super glue. For clear parts, use white glue, or Testors clear parts glue.

6 Dealing with gaps/seams between parts Newer models rarely have any visible gaps between parts. Most modern Gundams have a panel line depression in between parts to help hide the gaps. You can just use a bit of glue to make sure the parts stay firmly together, and paint the panel line between parts.

7 Gaps between parts If you want to completely hide the gap, that s a lot more work, especially in a Gundam The most important thing is to be consistent. Whichever approach you take, make sure you follow the same approach all over, or at least symmetrical pieces.

8 Hiding gaps using putty 1. Planning planning planning. Are the pieces a single assembly? Do they cover other sections with different finish/color? For the leg example 2. Mask the skeleton sections, like the knee joint 3. Glue the white pieces around it, using a good amount of gel superglue. It s ok if some glue squeezes out. 4. Let the glue dry solid.

9 Hiding gaps using putty 1. Use a xacto knife to cut out the biggest chunks of dry glue. 2. Use sandpaper to sand the remaining glue. 3. If parts of the gap are still visible, fill them with putty. 4. Let the putty dry. 5. Sand again. 6. Once there are no visible gaps, prime the piece. 7. Check for gaps again, and repeat from step 3 if needed.

10 Hiding gaps using putty 1. Paint the white piece as you normally would. 2. Remember the Red shoe? Now you need to do it all again for the shoe, if there are any gaps you want to hide 3. Unmask any masked pieces.

11 Airbrushing Opens up a world of creative possibilities You can minimize the use of spray paint. You can use mostly acrylic paints Long term, it s cheaper than spray paint. Needs commitment and attention.

12 Airbrushing Nice airbrush and compressor set is about $150 to $200. Get a double action Practice writing and drawing simple shapes Try to use mostly acrylics: Easier to clean, cheaper thinner (rubbing alcohol), usually nontoxic.

13 Before airbrushing 1. Recommendation: Tamiya acrylic thinner is just rubbing alcohol, so save some money 2. Thin the paint. About 2:1 thinner:paint ratio. Consistency should be about the same as skim milk. 3. Make sure the airbrush is clean. Consider running a bit of alcohol thru it before starting to paint.

14 Quick cleaning You can immediately continue painting with a different color after a quick cleaning 1. If you have a bottom feed container, cover the airbrush tip and pull on the trigger to make the paint flow back to the container. 2. Shut down the air compressor 3. Clean the paint container 4. Add some thinner to the container. 5. Airbrush some thinner to clean remaining paint.

15 Full cleaning Never store a dirty airbrush. 1. When you re ready to store the airbrush, do the quick cleaning, then disassemble it. 2. Dip pieces in thinner for a few minutes. 3. Check for any remaining paint. Remove it using a cloth dipped in thinner. 4. Dry pieces. 5. Reassemble airbrush.

16 Airbrush process 1. If you go from light to dark colors, you can just do a quick cleaning in between. 2. You must do a full cleaning in the following cases: 1. If you go from a dark color to a light color (especially white) 2. If you go from any color to a clear coat. 3. If you go from a metallic color to any color.

17 Shading process 1. Prime pieces 2. Optionally apply a quick coat of the final color 3. Pick a pre-shade color: 1. A darker shade of the piece color will give a subtle effect. 2. A darker complementary color will give a more dramatic effect. 4. Airbrush around panel lines, depressed areas, etc.

18 Airbrush process 1. Optionally pre-shade raised areas with a lighter color. 2. Blend all the shades together by applying the base color in light coats until you get the desired effect. 3. Optionally post-shade with both darker and lighter tones for additional effects.

19 Dry Transfer markings Usually included in Master Grade and above 1. Cut out the marking you re about to apply 2. Place on the desired spot. 3. If possible, secure with tape. 4. Rub the marking with a pencil tip

20 Dry transfer markings 1. Keep rubbing until the marking is fully transferred. You ll notice how it detaches from the backing paper. 2. Make sure the decal completely transferred before removing the backing. 3. Remove the backing 4. Clear coat to seal.

21 Waterslide decals Official ones are High Quality, lots of detail Most popular Gundams have their own official waterslide decals set For the rest, you can get a generic set Usually $10 to $15 If nothing works you can make your own ;)

22 Waterslide decals: Process Cut around decal 2. Dip in water for 30s 3. Set on a tissue or napkin to absorb excess water 4. Wait 30s to 1 min. for the decal to detach from the backing. (continued)

23 Waterslide decals: Process (continued) 5. Put some decal softer on application spot 6. Apply decal solution to spot 7. Place decal in place 8. Gently and slowly squeeze with cotton swab or napkin or cloth to remove excess water. 9. Apply mark softer on top. 10. Remove excess (continued)

24 Waterslide decals: Process (continued) 11. Continue making sure the decal is in place. 12. Repeat a couple of times to make sure the decal takes the piece s shape and the clear film blends in. 13. Apply finish coat

25 Custom waterslide decals What to do if there aren t official waterslide decals? Make your own! What you need: Decal paper Decal bonder spray Scanner Photoshop or similar picture editing software Xacto knife Patience Lots of patience

26 Custom waterslide decals: Process 1. Scan stickers sheet 2. Open picture in Photoshop. 3. Remove background color using Photoshop tools: 1. Magic wand 2. Eraser 3. Lasso 4. Once you re done, you should have a transparent picture file, with the original decals 5. Print decals sheet on decal paper

27 Custom waterslide decals: Process 6. Let ink dry at least a few minutes 7. Lightly coat the decal sheet with the decal coat spray. Don t overdo this. 8. Let the clear coat dry, apply one extra coat. 9. Let the decal sheet dry overnight. 10. You now have a decal sheet that s almost as good as the official ones. 11. You just need to cut each and every decal with the exacto knife have fun 12. There s also white decal paper

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30 Paint inside of armor

31 Panel lines using enamel or acrylic wash Get enamel paint (usually grey, black or brown) Piece must have glossy finish. 1. Thin the paint with lighter fluid at a 3:2 fluid:paint ratio 2. With a small paintbrush, get a good amount of paint and place it on the panel. The paint will just flow 3. Continue doing this for the rest of the panels on the piece

32 Panel lines using enamel wash 1. Let the piece dry for a few minutes 2. Clean the excess using a cotton swab dipped in lighter fluid.

33 Better Clear Parts 1. Get Pledge floor polish (formerly known as Future Floor polish) 2. Pour some in a container 3. Dip transparent pieces into container 4. Cover the container 5. Remove the pieces very gently. Watch for air bubbles. 6. Let the excess drip away and cover the piece to avoid dust landing on it. 7. Excess can be removed with rubbing alcohol

34 Better Tinted parts Instead of stickers that go on clear pieces, use clear-colored paints. Available in most common colors. Gives a nice extra shine. Clear-colored paints can also be used for high-gloss finish. We ll talk about it later in this panel.

35 Contests (Part 1) Fun and great way to learn more about model building. But if you go to a contest with the wrong expectations, it can be stressful. Your friends and family will always tell you your Gundam is the best. They re not objective Doing tons of (PERFECT) modifications to a model will likely get you to the top of the contest Normally, a PERFECT model without fancy modifications will beat an imperfect model with tons of modifications. Doing tons of (imperfect) modifications to a model doesn t guarantee winning a contest.

36 Masking Use masking tape to protect painted surfaces while airbrushing. Tamiya Masking tape is great. Great for Camouflage Painting the interior of armor pieces Adding detail to pieces Along panel lines, to have 2 similar color shades

37 Masking 1. Paint the first color. Let it dry overnight 2. Cut the masking tape pieces to the shape you need. 3. Place the masking tape. Make sure it sticks all the way. 4. Paint the next color. Do quick, light coats, to avoid building a paint edge 5. Remove the masking tape carefully.

38 Be careful when masking Use only masking tape. Don t cut the tape while on the piece, or you could scratch the piece. When removing the tape, do it very slowly and carefully. Don t let a masked piece sit for days (or weeks, or months or years)

39 Alcad II 1. Prime pieces with Tamiya Gloss black spray. 2. Airbrush Alclad II normally 3. Let it dry overnight 4. At this point, you can polish the finish, you can apply decals, weather the piece, etc. 5. DON T clear coat. That would hide the metallic finish

40 High Gloss finish Nicely done glossy parts or models can look very nice. As usual, planning is key Paint a couple of glossy pieces to contrast with the rest of the model. Example: head crown. Or you can go all the way with some of the most colorful Mobile suits, like any of Char Aznable s Red Mobile Suits.

41 High gloss and pearl finish 1. Apply a wet coat of the base glossy color. Repeat if needed. 2. Apply a wet coat of the same color in its clear version. Repeat if needed. 3. Apply a wet clear gloss coat. Repeat if needed 4. Apply decals 5. Apply a final clear gloss coat. Let the parts dry for at least 30 minutes between same color coats Let the parts dry overnight before applying the next color. Coat and immediately cover the piece to protect it from dust. For a Low visibility look, apply the decals BEFORE the colored-clear coat (step 2) You can follow the same steps when using Pearl paints.

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43 Marble paint 1. Apply a wet coat of the base glossy color 2. Using a brush, dip it in thinned black paint, clean it a bit, and apply paint in random patterns over the pieces. Make sure not to over do it. 3. Repeat to darken some spots. 4. You can also use a sponge. 5. Apply a gloss clear coat, then decals, then another clear coat.

44 Candy coat paint 1. Prime with a wet coat of Gloss black 2. Spray paint a wet coat of Metallic Silver 3. Spray paint a coat of clear color (blue, red, green, yellow). Optional: polish in between coats

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46 Dry brushing Adds metallic highlights to show some wear and tear Best results are on a completely finished piece. Dip brush in metallic paint. Start with a medium or dark metallic. 1. Clean brush with a piece of paper until brush is almost dry but still has some pigment 2. Gently brush around the edges you want to highlight 3. Repeat with progressively lighter tones, and covering less area (more focused in the raised areas). 4. Gunmetal -> metallic grey -> aluminum -> gloss silver.

47 Paint chipping Similar to dry brushing. Instead of a brush, use the corner of a sponge. Apply in random patterns. Be careful not to overdo this. Similar to drybrushing, start with a darker color, then move to adding highlights with aluminum or silver.

48 Adding dirt, rust, snow, dust Easiest way is to get a weathering kit and just follow the instructions. Tamiya weathering kit is pretty nice, and comes with an applicator. Just like with all other weathering techniques, be very careful not to overdo it

49 Paint chipping using salt Most realistic paint-chipping, though easy to over-do. 1. Pick a contrasting metallic color (if the top color is lighter, use a darker metallic and viceversa) 2. Prime 3. Paint with the metallic tone 4. Let it dry overnight 5. Use an old brush, dip it in water, then in salt, then apply in the areas you want to chip

50 Paint chipping Some salt will fall, some will stay, this helps the random patterns Let it dry for a couple of hours. Airbrush/spray paint the top color Let it dry overnight Remove the salt: rub with your fingers, sand it off, etc. Use other weathering techniques to blend the look.

51 Battle Damage Plan carefully before you start. Sketch what you want to do in Photoshop or similar software Decide what type of damage you want: Blunt weapons Bullets Explosions Energy beams Energy saber

52 Battle Damage tools Hobby knives Soldering Iron Sandpaper Dremel power tool

53 Bullet Holes 1. Mark the places for the bullet holes 2. Use a drill bit to start the holes. Not all holes need to go all the way through. 3. Create fractures around the hole by CAREFULLY using a xacto knife

54 Energy blasts 1. Open the holes with a drill bit or Dremel, similar to the bullet holes 2. Open fractures around the hole, similar to the bullet holes 3. Melt the plastic around the holes using a soldering iron. Be very careful not to overdo this. 4. Don t breathe the fumes

55 Beam saber cuts 1. Mark where the cuts will be 2. Follow the lines with the soldering iron. 3. Depending on how much of the melting vs cutting effect you want, either do a quick pass, or slowly bunch up some of the plastic around the edges.

56 Blunt damage Damage by collision with a blunt object or hand to hand combat Armor is not perforated, jut bent Easy to do with power tools, but also easy to overdo and end up with a hole in the armor. Best pieces to do this are curved, spherical pieces, shields, etc. Also possible to do using sandpaper, it just takes longer.

57 Blunt damage 1. Use a power tool with a drill bit or a sanding bit to start depressing the piece. 2. Move slowly and make sure you don t poke a hole thru the piece 3. Blend the main depression with the rest of the piece with the power tool, so it doesn t look like a cavity, but a deformation on the armor. 4. Use sandpaper to blend everything in.

58 Exposing inner detail MGs and RGs include skeletons. The detail in them is nice, though not perfect Exposing inner detail from the skeletons is not as simple as removing the armor pieces. As usual, plan what you want to expose, and based on that you can estimate the amount of work. Depending on the skeleton sections you want to expose, the pre-existing detail may be enough.

59 Exposing inner detail Removing a complete piece or sections usually exposes the pins and holes in the plastic pieces. To make the gundam look realistic you need to hide these pins and holes, and add any detail wherever it may be lacking. There s no single way to enhance the exposed pieces. Here are some ideas:

60 Exposing inner detail Cut and sand out the pins Use putty to fill in the holes Get some network cables, get the small wires out of the cable, peel out some of the cover to expose the wire, and stuff them in the holes. Use your spare Gundam pieces and attach to areas lacking detail. Drybrushing, paint chipping, panel lines, styrene panels, etc. Depending on the reason why the piece is exposed, add more or less weathering or battle damage. Maybe the skeleton is exposed for regular maintenance, or just for display. Or maybe it s exposed due to battle damage.

61 Dioramas The sky is the limit Plenty of resources to get started at any hobby shop: 1. Finished and unfinished bases on different sizes and types of terrain 2. Trees and vegetation 3. Rocks 4. Buildings 5. People The key for a good diorama is to blend all the elements together in a cohesive and harmonious way Use the techniques for painting, weathering, battle damage, etc to achieve these effects

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63 Barbatos Display base

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65 Contests Fun and great way to learn more about model building. But if you go to a contest with the wrong expectations, it can be stressful. Your friends and family will always tell you your Gundam is the best. They re not objective Doing tons of (PERFECT) modifications to a model will likely get you to the top of the contest Normally, a PERFECT model without fancy modifications will beat an imperfect model with tons of modifications. Doing tons of (imperfect) modifications to a model doesn t guarantee winning a contest.

66 Contests Be consistent in your finish: If you re going for new look, don t do weathering, keep panel lines discreet, use glossy finish, etc. For the weathered look, make sure you don t forget to weather some spots, like the bottom of the Gundam feet. Don t try to hide imperfections with heavy weathering. Be consistent on hiding or showing panel lines Make sure the finish is clean of any glue, or putty drops. Use latex gloves to avoid leaving fingerprints everywhere Be consistent when painting the inside or armor, especially the edges. NO transparent stickers, and use foil stickers only where the edges will be hidden. Clear film on decals or dry transfers must be completely blended. (gloss coat, decal, gloss coat, final coat)

67 Contests Don t do extras half-way If you add a display base, make sure your Gundam blends with it But most important, build for you, not for the judges If you expose the inner frame, modify or hide the pins/holes, and add mechanical detail. If you add custom LEDs, hide all wiring.

68 Scribing new panel lines RG, newer MG and newer PG don t really need this. Older, larger MG and PG could benefit from this. Most Larger HG could benefit from this. Significant planning and work required.

69 Scribing panel lines 1. Draw the design on the piece. This may be easier on a primed piece 2. Use thick masking tape along the larger panel lines 3. Use a small scriber knife to start scribing, using the masking tape as a guide 4. Switch to a larger knife to finish the panel 5. Sand around in case there s any plastic sticking out.

70 Adding styrene sections Similar to scribing new panels, it s probably not necessary on newer models. Brings life to large, flat pieces

71 Styrene pieces 1. Plan the design you want 2. Get the styrene sheet in the proper thickness. 3. Draw the design on the styrene sheet 4. Cut the styrene pieces 5. Sand the edges 6. Glue the styrene on top of the Gundam pieces. Make there are no gaps or glue sticking out. 7. If needed fill any gaps, clear any glue, sand down any remaining imperfections, etc.

72 Answer a Question, Get a Gundam!

73 Resin Parts Resin casting allows some additional detail compared to regular plastic injection. Plenty of Resin kits to improve the look on your Gundams: More detailed parts Conversion Parts to modify a model and turn it into a variation. Resin conversions are expensive Difficult to work with resin Pieces need lots of cleaning Dust from pieces is highly toxic Must use Glue Usually impairs Gundam s poseability

74 Resin Parts The day you buy a Resin conversion, the rumors start about an official Bandai release The day you start working on your Resin conversion, Bandai officially announces a release The day you complete your Resin conversion, Bandai releases the same model, with better detail and infinitely easier to build

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76 Resources msn-04.html

77 Q & A