Oman - Birds, Desert & Culture

Transcription

1 Naturetrek 3 13 November 2013 African Paradise Flycatcher Pheasant-tailed Jacana Greater Flamingos Steppe Eagle Report compiled by Andrew Bray Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0) F: +44 (0) E: info@naturetrek.co.uk W:

2 Oman - Birds, Desert & Culture Tour Leaders: Andrew Bray Naturetrek Ornithologist Participants: Iain Gardner Lynn Gardner Steve Bennett Julia Bennett John Cockbill Hilary Cockbill Paul Lewis David Pope Jo Davies Bill Bailey Robin Atherton Day 1 Monday 4th November A delay at Gatwick meant the London passengers missed connecting flights from Dubai to Muscat. They eventually arrived after lunch and met other members of the group. The early arrivals had been taken to a local shopping mall whilst they waited. When we were eventually gathered we split between four 4x4 vehicles for a drive up the Batinah Coast to Al Sawadi for a picnic lunch. This was our first taste of bird watching and the bay was festooned with waders, gulls and an Osprey and Marsh Harrier. Amongst the plethora of species a Terek Sandpiper was found. We did not have time to explore the area further as we had a hotel to get to. We arrived at Sohar to experience a major thunderstorm with fork and sheet lightning when we eventually got to the hotel they were fixing the electrics and mopping up leaks! A buffet supper and it was time for bed... Day 2 Tuesday 5th November After a stroll around the gardens followed by breakfast we headed north to Liwa and the Mangroves by the beach. Here we failed to see the target kingfisher but did see two Common Kingfishers and heard two Clamorous Warblers. There was a mix of birds including a small flock of Yellow-throated Sparrows, Green Beeeaters, a Striated Heron and a Marsh Harrier quartered the area. Our next stop was a rest stop by a building of fast food outlets. Nearby, in the rough ground backing onto our destination, there were two Arabian Babblers in full view. The next stop was Sun Farm at Sohar. We were limited to where we could go following the storm the previous night, but out by a gantry, some Indian Rollers put on a colourful display. On the track a Black-crowned Sparrow-Lark showed well as did Tawny Pipits, Crested Larks and Desert Wheatears (that we were to see a lot of). There was a Southern Grey Shrike in a bush, which also produced Purple Sunbirds. Seen hunting here were Short-toed Snake Eagles. Naturetrek November 13 1

3 We then moved to some pools by the Cow Sheds where there were hundreds of Laughing Doves, Collared Doves and White Wagtails. The ponds produced a spectacular sight with waders, terns and a low flying Greater Spotted Eagle above our heads. A trip back down the road to the fields found a Namaqua Dove and one vehicle found a small flock of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse. Time passed quickly and we headed south to Muscat and our hotel. Day 3 Wednesday 6th November Our first stop not far from the hotel was the Grand Mosque, with the largest single carpet in the world and magnificent chandeliers. The gardens were filled with Indian Silverbill and Bulbuls. After a grand tour by the lead driver Qais, it was off to our first main area in Muscat at the Al Ansab Wetlands. This area supports a large bird population. We were limited in where we could go however the wading lagoon was filled with species including Black-necked Grebe, Temminck s Stint, White-tailed Lapwing, Marsh Sandpiper and 100+ Blackwinged Stilts. Our next stop was Qurm Estuary. The tide was in and the sandbank was clustered with waders whilst egrets and herons moved along the edges. A Greater Spotted Eagle sat on a bank and an Osprey fished. We then parked at the other end of the estuary at the rear gate to the park. A lot of work had been carried out and the vegetation was yet to re-grow. A pair of Grey Francolins scurried across the ground and a Green Bee-eater sat on a stone not at all worried by our proximity. We stopped by the open amphitheatre and managed to find all 3 species of Bulbul in the same tree. We had lunch on top of the hill overlooking the estuary with a marvellous Indian meal. We then headed south towards Sur where we encountered heavy rain that filled the wadis and created spectacular waterfalls in the mountains, and turned some of the road tunnels under the highway into rivers. Locals were stopping to take photos of the event that only occurs once in a very long time. We arrived at Turtle Beach Resort in the dark. Day 4 Thursday 7th November An early morning walk outside the resort in the desert failed to find any nightjars but we did see a Red-tailed Wheatear and a Southern Grey Shrike. The lead cars disturbed 3 Sand Partridges that the last car picked up. There were plenty of waders along the shore line but our first stop was at Khawr Gramma. The tour leader eventually found 2 Crab Plovers away from the main water and eventually there were 11 birds with good light on them. The area was full of birds, but as the tide was out most birds were at too far away to count and indentify. There was however plenty closer on the mud to us. The local fisherman, working in the last hut which we were standing by, produced coffee and cake for us. Eventually we had to depart as we were on a tight timetable. The next stop was the gorges at Tiwi and Al AsShab. Despite a pleasant walk the Hume s Wheatear evaded us all bar one. We did see a Squacco Heron on the ground and in flight as well as a Blue Rock Thrush and a Common Cuckoo. At lunch in a hotel overlooking the sea, one member went for a walk up a wadi to find another Hume s Wheatear. 2 Naturetrek November 13

4 Our next stop was Quiriyat rubbish tip just off the freeway. Here there were plenty of Egyptian Vultures, rollers and eagles. There was a large dark bird with the vultures. The tour leader managed to get into the rubbish pile and spook the bird which was dark, huge with a large wedge shape tail. It was a probable juvenile Lammergeier which we later discovered would be the first sighting in Oman (lack of evidence suggests that this may not be previously recorded). We then headed for the airport, said goodbye to our drivers and caught the 1½ hour flight to Salalah where a coach took us to Beach Villas. Day 5 Friday 8th November The apartments were located on a long sandy beach that provided waders and gulls for those who liked an early morning walk. Our first stop was on the road on the outside of Sahnawt Farm where a flock of over 300 pacific Golden Plovers took to the air and 5 Common Cranes were found in the long grass. In addition we found a Turtle Dove and a Greater Spotted Eagle by the fence. Our next stop at Ayn Hamran provided so many birds. As soon as we stepped out of the vehicles we were looking at birds bathing and drinking by the concrete water channel. There were lots of Cinnamon-breasted Buntings, Rüppels Weavers and Abyssinian White-eyes. We also saw Paradise Flycatchers, Hoopoes, African Silverbills, and Black-crowned Tchagras. Our next stop was at the end of Wadi Darbat by the lake. The wadi was filled with camels and cattle amongst the grass and scrub. The skies were filled with eagles including Bonelli s, Steppe, Greater Spotted and a juvenile Imperial. We also saw our first Tristram Starlings and an Arabian Wheatear. There were also large numbers of Shining Sunbirds with the iridescent colours captured in the sun. We then drove to the sink hole at Tawi Atayr which is over 200m deep not that we could see the bottom from the viewing platform. There were plenty of birds flying around including real Rock Doves and Pale Crag Martins as well as Tristram Starlings. This is the place for Yemen Serin and we did find one on the gate by the buildings close to the car park. There was also a nice male Arabian Wheatear, a Red-throated Pipit and our first Dhofar Swifts. Our final stop before lunch was at the spring for Wadi Hannah though a group of boys swimming had pushed the birds back and there was little about. After lunch at Taqah we returned to Ayn Hamran to find the elusive pigeon but it remained hidden, though one member found an Egyptian Nightjar in the scrub. Day 6 Saturday 9th November Our first stop was at a secret site in Salalah where we found 4 Spotted Thick-knees and a single Lesser Kestrel. We then visited 3 Khawrs to the west of the town starting with West Khawr with Greater Flamingo, Redknobbed Coot, herons, ducks and waders. Once again the shore line was dominated by Sooty Gulls. At Khawr Murkit 1 there was a Purple Heron and the Salalah Nature Reserve produced Grey Plover, Sanderling and 25 Greenshank. Naturetrek November 13 3

5 Our next stop was deep in the industrial zone outside the town when we visited the sewage works and the vast rubbish dump. This provides an eagle spectacular with several hundred visiting. Just from our position there were over 100 Steppe Eagles visible and the site can attract over 400 plus as well as other eagles. In addition we arrived to vast flocks of White Stork rising into the air and at the sewage works there were over 200 Abdim s Storks though we had to peer through the haze and breeze from outside the fence. We then drove east to Al Mughsayl and a golden sand beach with some ponds between it and the road. The more we looked amongst the grass and rocks the more birds there were. This was a delightful stop with a large range of herons, ducks, waders and other birds. Socotra Cormorants flew by in small groups, a small group of Curlew Sandpipers hid by a rock and a Saunder s Tern fished the pools. Lunch was held on the veranda of a restaurant at the end of the beach overlooking the sea. Turtles were seen breaking the surface amongst the choppy water. A spell of sea-watching was not that productive and was very quiet except for a 10 minute spell. We took time to visit the blow holes nearby where there was a large shoal of fish feeding at the surface. Though the there was little moving there were a few Persian Shearwaters and Brown Boobys. After a long lingering lunch and a rather nice break we stopped at the nearby garage to buy some local Frankincense. We then drove to a small valley where there was a magnificent Frankincense tree and Mahad (lead driver) gave us a talk about how the crystals are made. We then drove down Wadi Mughsayl where we eventually found a pair of Long-billed Pipits. We stopped in the wadi for dusk to fall to find Hume s Owl but it decided not to play that night despite us stopping at the two best locations. There were 3 groups out that night and none of us were successful. It was a later return to another delicious meal at the villas. Day 7 Sunday 10th November We handed in our suitcases for storage ready for our desert adventure. Our first stop was at Al Sahnwat for an early morning stop but locals had beaten us to it so it was not as productive as wished for. There was plenty of water and we did find a flock of 12 Arabian Partridges with juveniles as well as Grey and Yellow Wagtails. We then drove up a wooded valley before joining the highway to Muscat. Short of Thumrait we did a dirt track detour to the rubbish dump on the edge of a military bombing range. Once again there were plenty of Steppe Eagles as well as a pair of Desert Larks. We then started our drive into the Stony Desert and turned off the main road to Shisr and the World Heritage Site of the lost city of Uber. This city at the crossroads of the Frankincense trade was either swallowed by a sinkhole or destroyed by God for being depraved and sinful. There is not much left and the sinkhole is filled with sand. We had lunch under the trees with the flies; who knew that the desert had so much wildlife. One of the birds of the tour was seen; a Pallid Harrier but it was seen only be a few. There was also a Common and Black Redstart, as well as Greater Hoopoe Larks and 3 Cream-coloured Coursers that were difficult to identify as we drove away from the town by some farms producing grass fodder. Once back on the main road the stony desert soon gave way to flat desert. Eventually we stopped for a rest stop at Qatbit Motel where the grounds were filled with porta-cabins for workers upgrading the road. The grounds within the walls are full of shrubs, trees and vegetation that are a magnet for migrating birds. In our short stay we added Bluethroat and Redbreasted Flycatcher to the list. We eventually arrived at our rest house for the night at Al Ghaftayn after another hour plus drive. 4 Naturetrek November 13

6 Day 8 Monday 11th November An early morning walk around the inside of the walls produced Chiffchaffs, Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters and a Blackstart amongst others. After an early breakfast we headed for Muntasar Oasis. Despite a few diversions we arrived to find Spotted Sandgrouse not too far away and whilst we were there more flocks came in with about 120 around us. With the light in the right direction we had fantastic views of flying birds as well as on the ground. In addition there was a Tree Pipit, Isabelline Shrike, Little Stint and White Wagtail. A rest stop at Qatbit and our next site was Al Deeb Farm where they were growing grass and sweet melons. In the grassland there was a flock of Greater Short-toed Larks plus some Greater Hoopoe Larks on the edges. It was a long drive back to Salalah with a final stop at East Khawr before an ice-cream stop. At the Khawr there was a mass of species including a Pheasant-tailed Jacana, Avocet and over 350 Ruff plus lots of other gulls and waders that included a Terek Sandpiper. The site was a welcome bonanza after the long drive with plenty to see and one of the best Khawrs we visited. Day 9 Tuesday 12th November Today was our final day and we headed east. Our first stop was Ayn Hamran. On arrival there was a flock of Arabian Partridges plus buntings and weavers. There was a good view of Arabian Warbler plus Paradise Flycatcher and Black-crowned Tchagra. Some of the group went in search of the Egyptian Nightjar and it was close to where it had first been seen, so they were very happy. The fig trees in the wadi were searched and a couple on the walk back to the vehicles found the elusive Bruce s Green Pigeon in fig trees near the entrance. Eventually all of us saw the well camouflaged green and yellow bird. The next stop was on one of the arms of Khawr Rori. Here there was a Purple Heron, Citrine Wagtail, Indian Pond Heron and some Eurasian Coot. It was a lovely spot but we moved on and entered the Sumhuran site for views of the Khawr. There were good views of Spoonbills stirring the water as they scooped up fish. There were plenty of Ospreys with one fishing. There were more Citrine Wagtails, and a Blackstart was seen close to the Dhow on the beach. There were more Greater Flamingos and another Pheasant-tailed Jacana. We eventually had a look around the ruined town where there were gangs of labourers working under supervision of 3 archaeologists excavating and rebuilding parts of the old town. This town dates back to the 4 th Century and was a major trading port before the sandbar blocked the harbour. We had lunch in the fishing port of Mirbat overlooking the sea with a pleasant breeze and a few cats tried to entice us into feeding them the remains of our fish dishes. There was a small flock of Jouanin s Petrels far out to sea and some Flesh-footed Shearwaters and Masked Booby s flew by. The town of Mirbat was the scene of a battle in 1972 when 8 British soldiers held against a force of 300 rebels before re-enforcements in the form of a fighter aircraft arrived. We visited the old fort and could see the open ground as well as the old town with its wooden lattice windows. Our time was up and we had a last evening at our base in Salalah. Day 10 Wednesday 13th November It was a day of travelling, without delays! Naturetrek November 13 5

7 Species Lists Birds November Common name Scientific name Arabian Partridge Alectoris melanocephala Sand Partridge Ammoperdix heyi 3 3 Grey Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope 1 6 Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata Northern Pintail Anas acuta Garganey Anas querquedula Eurasian Teal Anas crecca Flesh-footed Shearwater Puffinus carneipes Persian Shearwater Puffinus persicus Jouanin's Petrel Bulweria fallax 5 13 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis 2 15 Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus Abdim's Stork Ciconia abdimii White Stork Ciconia ciconia Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia 5 20 Striated Heron Butorides striata 1 21 Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides 1 22 Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Purple Heron Ardea purpurea Great Egret Ardea alba Little Egret Egretta garzetta Western Reef Heron Egretta gularis Masked Booby Sula dactylatra 3 30 Brown Booby Sula leucogaster Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo Socotra Cormorant Phalacrocorax nigrogularis Western Osprey Pandion haliaetus Lammergeier Gypaetus barbatus 1? 35 Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus Short-toed Snake Eagle Circaetus gallicus Greater Spotted Eagle Clanga clanga Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis Eastern Imperial Eagle Aquila heliaca Bonelli's Eagle Aquila fasciata 3 41 Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus 1 43 Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni 1 44 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Barbary Falcon Falco pelegrinoides 2 46 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropes Red-knobbed Coot Fulica cristata 3 48 Eurasian Coot Fulica atra 2 6 Naturetrek November 13

8 November Common name Scientific name Common Crane Grus grus 5 50 Spotted Thick-knee Burhinus capensis 4 51 Eurasian Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus 2 52 Crab-Plover Dromas ardeola Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus White-tailed Lapwing Vanellus leucurus 4 57 Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus Lesser Sand Plover Charadrius mongolus Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hyrophasianus chirurgus Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus Common Redshank Tringa totanus Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis 4 73 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Sanderling Calidris alba Little Stint Calidris minuta Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii 4 81 Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferrginea Dunlin Calidris alpina Ruff Philomachus pugnax Cream-colored Courser Cursorius cursor 3 85 Slender-billed Gull Chroicocephalus genei Sooty Gull Ichthyaetus hemprichii Caspian Gull Larus cachinnans Heuglin's Gull Larus fuscus heuglini Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia Greater Crested Tern Thalasseus bergii Lesser Crested Tern Thalasseus bengalensis Sandwich Tern Thalasseus sandvicensis Saunder's Tern Sternula saundersi Bridled Tern Onychoprion anaethetus Common Tern Sterna hirundo White-cheeked Tern Sterna repressa 1 98 Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus Naturetrek November 13 7

9 November Common name Scientific name Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles exustus Spotted Sandgrouse Pterocles senegallus Rock Dove Columba livia European Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto Laughing Dove Spilopelia senegalensis Namaqua Dove Oena capensis Bruce's Green Pigeon Treron waalia Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus African Scops Owl Otus senegalensis Egyptian Nightjar Caprimulgus aegyptius Forbes-Watson Swift Apus berliozi Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis European Roller Coracias garrulus Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis Green Bee-Eater Merops orientalis Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Merops persicus Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegalus Isabelline Shrike Lanius isabellinus Red-tailed Shrike Lanius phoenicurides Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis African Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis House Crow Corvus splendens Brown-necked Raven Corvus ruficollis Fan-tailed Raven Corvus rhipidurus Greater Hoopoe-Lark Alaemon alaudipes Desert Lark Ammomanes deserti Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla Crested Lark Galerida cristata Black-crowned Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix nigriceps White-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus leucogenys Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer White-spectacled Bulbul Pycnonotus xanthopygos Sand Martin Riparia riparia Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Pale Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne obsoleta Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita Clamorous Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus 2h 140 Graceful Prinia Prinia gracilis Arabian Babbler Turdoides squamiceps Arabian Warbler Sylvia leucomelaena Abyssinian White-Eye Zosterops abyssinicus Common Myna Acridotheres tristis Tristram's Starling Onychognathus tristramii Bluethroat Luscinia svecica Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe Red-tailed Wheatear Oenanthe chrysopygia Naturetrek November 13

10 November Common name Scientific name Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti Arabian Wheatear Oenanthe lugentoides Hume's Wheatear Oenanthe albonigra Blackstart Oenanthe melanura Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata Red-breasted Flycatcher Ficedula parva Palestine Sunbird Cinnyris osea Shining Sunbird Cinnyris habessinicus Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus House Sparrow Passer domesticus Yellow-throated Sparrow Gymnoris xanthocollis Rüppell's Weaver Ploceus galbula African Silverbill Euodice cantans Indian Silverbill Euodice malabarica Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea White Wagtail Motacilla alba Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris Long-billed Pipit Anthus similis Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus Yemen Serin Crithagra menachensis Cinnamon-breasted Bunting Emberiza tahapisi Other Taxa 178 Fox sp Turtle sp 4 6 Receive our e-newsletter Join the Naturetrek ing list and be the first to hear about new tours, additional departures and new dates, tour reports and special offers. Visit to sign up. Naturetrek Facebook We are delighted to launch the Naturetrek Facebook page so that participants of Naturetrek tours can remain in touch after the holiday and share photos, comments and future travel plans. Setting up a personal profile at is quick, free and easy. The Naturetrek Facebook page is now live; do please pay us a visit! Naturetrek November 13 9