Jordan Dana Conservation Area
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1 Birding Trip Report Jordan Dana Conservation Area 9 & 10 December 2016 Splendid male Palestine Sunbird, Cinnyris osea, a common denizen of the lower wadi A self-guided weekend trip to the Dana Biosphere Reserve of Jordan (2.5 hrs drive south from Amman). According to the Wikipedia entry: Dana Biosphere Reserve is Jordan's largest nature reserve, located in south-central Jordan. Dana Biosphere Reserve was founded in 1989 in the area in and around the Dana village and Wadi Dana comprising 308 square kilometres. The government website also notes: The only reserve in Jordan that encompasses the four different bio-geographical zones of the country (Mediterranean, Irano-Turanian, Saharo-Arabian and Sudanian), it is a melting pot of species from Europe, Africa and Asia. The reserve is home to a wealth of fauna, including the best known breeding site for Syrian Serin. I left Amman in the late afternoon of Thursday, arriving at the Dana Guesthouse, managed by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (RSCN), at sunset. The Guesthouse charges 58JOD per night (with breakfast). Lunch and Dinner can be provided for JOD 28. All-in-all, good value for a bird camp.
2 The views from the Guesthouse over the Wadi Dana are spectacular: Wadi Dana looking west from the hotel. At night, one can see the lights of the Palestinian Territory and further distant, Israel A number of independent trip reports mention the presence of Hume s Owl, Strix butleri, at sites above the historic Dana Village. However, despite several attempts, no owl was heard. The barking of packs of dogs, kept by traditional herders to protect sheep & goats, somewhat detracted from the experience Friday, 9 December I got a dawn start to walk up from Dana to Al-Barra, a small forested area approx. 3 kms from the hotel (30 minutes walk). The morning chill and relatively strong breeze seemed to put a dampener on the bird activity until the morning sun entered the valley at 08:00am. Later in the morning, while the bird variety was limited, the numbers were impressive: Black Redstart, Phoenicurus ochruros common around the hotel and in the carpark Common Chaffinch, Fringilla coelebs 100s seen feeding on dry grass seeds on the ground Brambling, Fringilla montifringilla one scarlet specimen seen with the (above) Chaffinches European Goldfinch, Carduelis carduelis in orchards around Dana village European Greenfinch, Carduelis chloris at least a dozen feeding with the above species near orchards House Sparrow, Passer domesticus common in the village
3 Chukar Partridge, Alectoris chukar flushed flocks flying everywhere with a hunting ban in place, Chukar is a really common species at Dana: Rock Dove, Columbia livia individuals frequently seen in flight above the wadi Common Linnet, Carduelis cannabina frequently encountered perched in long rows on electricity/telephone wires Common Kestrel, Falco tinnunculus several flying low down cliffs, hunting small birds Laughing Dove, Spilopelia senegalensis feeding in the village and in recently ploughed fields for winter wheat Great Tit, Parus major (aphrodite) at least 10 seen in and around orchards White-spectacled Bulbul, Pycnonotus xanthopygos very common in orchards near Dana
4 At 09:00, I returned to the hotel for a generous breakfast. Through the RSCN, I made arrangements to visit the Rummana Campsite, approx. 10kms from Dana. I hired a taxi to take me to the RSCN guard post and arrived at 10:00am. (NB: the campsite is officially closed to visitors from November April). Rummana campsite
5 I birded around the campsite with an RSCN Ranger for the rest of the morning: (Streaked) Scrub Warbler, Scotocerca inquieta a common bird in low scrub, often seen hopping on the ground near bushes - lifer Common Chiffchaff, Phylloscopus collybita abietinus at least 6 seen in desert oaks Sardinian Warbler, Sylvia melanocephala the only Sylvia seen 4 in low bushes Tristram s Starling, Onychognathus tristramii a ubiquitous presence at Wadi Dana; 100s in flocks departing roost sites in small caves in the wadi walls - lifer
6 Brown-necked Raven, Corvus ruficollis just one vocal pair flying over the wadi Blackbird, Turdus merula in shrubs around the campsite European Stonechat, Saxicola rubicola a few perched on rocks Blue Rock Thrush, Monticola solitarius silent sentinels of the desert; common at most sites I returned to the Guesthouse at 15:00 and prepared to return to Al-Barra to search for the elusive Syrian Serin. Again, I was unlucky and had to content myself with only one new species: Rock Bunting, Emberiza cia only one of this winter migrant seen perched on a low bush With sun setting at 17:00, a biting chill hit the air and I retreated to the guesthouse for a splendid Levantine repast. No owling this evening because of a brisk wind (and just too many barking dogs!).
7 Saturday, 10 December An early start this morning to re-visit the Al-Barra forest. The dawn was breaking on a beautiful cloudless (and windless!) day. This time I was in luck: Syrian (Tristram s) Serin, Serinus syriacus two seen perched on the tops of juniper trees. Later in the day, I would see two more perched on juniper and also several flocks of 6-8 birds in flight. They actually appeared to be more readily found at this season in the mid-level of the wadi rather than at Al-Barra - lifer I returned to the hotel for breakfast and then set off to trek down into the wadi along the dirt road from Dana village. On the way down the steep road, I passed several orchards that contained several new species: European Robin, Erithacus rubecula one well-coloured bird feeding under a tree Spanish Sparrow, Passer hispaniolensis not common, a small group seen White Wagtail, Motacilla alba fairly common along dry watercourses Towards the bottom of the wadi, I encountered several news species in the deep, dry ravines:
8 Blackstart, Cercomela melanura common at the very bottom of the dry river bed - lifer Desert Lark, Ammomanes deserti deserti the paler form; common at the bottom of the wadi Sand Partridge, Ammoperdix heyi a group of 50+ scratching in sand at the dry river bed; relatively confiding compared to Chukar - lifer Finsch s Wheatear, Oenanthe finschii only one seen; perched on a rock
9 Bonelli s Eagle, Aquila fasciatus the real excitement for the day. Whilst I was sitting in the shade of a rock, all of a sudden, two eagles stooped violently into the valley, scattering Sand and Chukar Partridges to the four winds. The adult pair then cruised the cliffs at about 200m searching for prey. Ultimately, they were unsuccessful and one was mobbed by a Kestrel until they gave up, disappeared around a corner, and sailed down the valley. Pale Crag Martin, Ptyonoprogne (fuligula) obsoleta numerous birds in flight and hawking insects in the valley lifer Eastern Mourning Wheatear, Oenanthe lugens 4 seen in typical wheatear posture on rocks Palestine Sunbird, Cinnyris osea another highlight for me, the bird having hitherto eluded me in Amman. Two males seen well and feeding on red flowers in trees in the wadi, stunning colouration - lifer: At midday, I started the long slog back up the valley to the guesthouse where lunch was waiting for me at 14:00. I departed Dana at 15:00 arriving at Amman at 17:30. All-in-all, a comfortable weekend s birding with 32 species seen, including seven personal lifers. Especially gratifying was to see good numbers of the key bird of the area: Syrian Serin.
10 Tristram s Starlings drinking at a rock pool
11 The author at Rummana David Karr, Amman, 12 December 2016
Day 1. Land very late in Amman, pick up the hire car, which was very easy and drive to the hotel. We got a bit lost, but made it in the end.
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