NORTH PERU BIRD TOURS 2015 & 2016

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1 NORTH PERU BIRD TOURS 2015 & 2016

2 WHO WE ARE Detlef Davies is originally from Salisbury in central southern England. He trained as a solicitor and practised for many years in the UK. Since childhood he has had a passion for birds and from the early 1970s became a keen active field birder, joining local societies, travelling far and wide in the UK and abroad and accumulating a wealth of ornithological knowledge. He has been birding in over 80 countries and keeps meticulous notes and lists. As well as birds he has a keen interest in mammals, reptiles, amphibians, butterflies and dragonflies and has become a prolific photographer. The interest in dragonflies is inherited from his late father, Prof. Allen Davies who compiled the first world list of dragonflies. Carol Davies is originally from Dundee, Scotland, has 3 grown up children and two grand-daughters. One of her daughters lives in Sydney, Australia, the other is here in Kerikeri and her son, his wife and the grandchildren live in Dundee. Carol is trained as a biomedical scientist and holds a BSc Honours degrees in Chemistry and Biology along with other postgrad qualifications. She shares Detlef s interest in wildlife with an equal passion for all creatures great and small. In Scotland Carol was a volunteer for the Citizens Advice Bureau, specialising in social policy for the elderly and disabled. Detlef and Carol met in Tahiti in 1999 while Detlef was returning from a 14 month career break travelling round the world and Carol was embarking on a Winston Churchill Travelling Fellowship to New Zealand and Australia. From their home in Essex, Detlef and Carol emigrated to New Zealand in September 2003 looking for a complete change and a better lifestyle. Both now have great enthusiasm for running the operation from Birders Rest and for their regular wildlife trips to remote locations around the world. A BRIEF HISTORY 2008 to 2014 Our North Peru project began in late 2007 when we responded to an advert in the UK magazine Birding World in which a hotel and lodge owner, Lluis Dalmau, offered free board and lodging to a suitable person able to explore this region and compile bird list with a view to marketing for bird tours. The lodge concerned was Pumarinri, south-east of Tarapoto, by the Huallaga River, where, having secured the job for the 2 of us, we spent an enjoyable month birding and listing in June Correspondence with Lluis continued and by 2010 he had opened a new Lodge by the newly revealed Gocta Falls near Chachapoyas and sought to follow the same process there. We therefore returned to Peru in 2010 unlike low-lying Pumarinri, this was an Andean site at 1800 metres and hardly visited by birding groups at all. With the knowledge obtained from these 2 visits, and some exploration of various other sites in the vicinity and on the route between the 2, we decided to try and find our own visitors to bring over and share the exciting birding available. We therefore put our itineraries together with a view to maximising the areas we know best and incorporating as many habitats and altitudes as possible in the time available. Since then, Lluis has been the ground agent for our tours and his staff have made all the ground arrangements and bookings for us. We make full use of local expert guides. Since 2012 we have run 4 tours, taking a total of 27 people. In the last couple of years we have extended our area of operation to the coastal region around Chiclayo so that the tours operate one way, either in a westward or eastward direction. We continue to seek new areas and to run different itineraries, some with emphasis on other interests such as archaeological sites, museums and a variety of other wildlife.

3 TOURS IN 2015 The following tours are offered: Sat 6 th to Fri 26 th June (21 days) Tarapoto to Chiclayo Extension 26 th to 29 th June (4 days) Chaparri Lodge Mon 29 th June to Mon 13 th July (14 days) Chiclayo to Tarapoto Sat 8 August to Sat 22 August (14 days) Chiclayo to Tarapoto with Plataforma alternative ( Mud and Barbets ) for last 3 days. Sat 22 August Fri 11 Sept (21 days) Tarapoto to Chiclayo. Fri 11 Sept to Mon 14 Sept (4 days) Extension to Chaparri Tues 13 th Oct to Mon 2 nd Nov (21 days) Tarapoto to Chiclayo Extension 2 nd to 5 th Nov (4 days) Chaparri Lodge Thurs 5 th Nov to Thurs 19 th Nov (14 days) Chiclayo to Tarapoto TOUR DETAILS Fasciated Tiger Heron Peruvian Thick-knee The 21 day tours from Tarapoto to Chiclayo start in the lowlands of the Huallaga River, proceed westwards to the Andes, rising to 3600 metres, the dry scrub around Jaen and to the north-west coastal region around Chiclayo. The extension involves 3 nights at Chaparri Lodge east of Chiclayo, on the dry west side of the Andes. The return tour to Tarapoto is 14 days and is a reverse of the 21 day tour, omitting the highest part of the Andes but reaching over 2000 metres at Gocta Falls. The alternative 3 day trip to Plataforma is for the adventurous only (see page 25). The 14 day trip starting on 8 th August includes some new sites which are not on other tours. The main focus is birds but there will be mammals, lizards, perhaps snakes, poison dart frogs, and a great variety of insects and spiders; also some fascinating plants; a few days will have opportunities for culture such as museums and the ruins at Kuelap. As this is a birding trip, you will get the most out of the tour by purchasing the Field Guide (see below) and try to become familiar with some of the common species, or at least the typical neotropical families. You should bring the book with you.

4 A reasonable level of fitness is required but if you feel unable to tackle the more strenuous hikes, you may opt out and stay at or near the accommodation if it is a day when we are not moving on. The longest or steepest walks are at Rio Chido, the 2 walks to Gocta Falls, the Pucayaquillo Waterfall and the 2 night walks for owls at Abra Patricia and the walk at Plataforma. Other days are relatively leisurely with roadside stops and short trails. Anyone interested in linking a bird tour with another excursion such as a visit to Machu Picchu or elsewhere in south Peru, or wishing to add a non-birding excursion should let us know their requirements as we can probably assist or make suggestions. COST The cost of the 21 day tour is US$4,700 based on 2 people sharing or US$5,100 for singles not sharing. The extension of 3 days is US$750 per person with no single supplement. The shorter tours of 14 days in June July and in November are US$3,350 based on 2 people sharing or US$3,650 for singles not sharing. The August 14 day tour with the Plataforma alternative is US$3,500 for doubles or US$3,800 for singles. The August 14 day tour with the Pumarinri alternative is US$3,400 for doubles or US$3,700 for singles. The prices include: All overnight accommodation in quality hotels & lodges throughout the tour (no camping), except that the accommodation at Plataforma is basic. All meals & packed lunches Some soft drinks & water Transport throughout in suitable vehicle(s) River transport Entry fees to parks & reserves Guiding both by us and some local guides Transfers to and from airports It does not include: International flights to Peru & internal flights to & from Tarapoto & Chiclayo Any visas required Alcoholic drinks Medical requirements Insurance Tips Personal laundry Bank charges Other personal requirements, souvenirs etc. Deposits can be paid to NZ$, AU$ or GBP accounts. BIRD FIELD GUIDE The recommended book for bird identification is Birds of Peru by Schulenberg, Stotz, Lane, O Neill & Parker, published by Helm Field Guides. This is available by mail order through a number of sources, e.g Andrew Isles in Australia and Wildsounds, NHBS and Subbuteo in the UK. You may find other books on Peruvian or South American wildlife worth buying. A good one on mammals is Neotropical Rainforest Mammals by Louise H Emmons. If you have bird guides on Ecuador, Colombia or other South American countries, these may suffice for most species. BOOKING If you would like to come, please use our booking form which should be returned by and a deposit of 20% of the tour cost paid. Detlef & Carol March

5 TOURS IN 2016 Tours are planned to continue in 2016 with a similar schedule of tours as this year. The dates set out below all begin 5 days after the 2015 dates and all start on the same day of the week as this year. We expect that prices will be no more than 5% above this year s prices. Sat 11 to Fri 1 July (21 days) Tarapoto to Chiclayo Fri 1 to Mon 4 July (4 days) Extension to Chaparri Mon 4 July to Mon 18 July (14 days) Chiclayo to Tarapoto Sat 13 August to Sat 27 August (14 days) Chiclayo to Tarapoto with Plataforma alternative ( Mud and Barbets ) for last 3 days. Sat 27 August Fri 16 Sept (21 days) Tarapoto to Chiclayo. Fri 16 Sept to Mon 19 Sept (4 days) Extension to Chaparri Tues 18 Oct to Mon 7 Nov (21 days) Tarapoto to Chiclayo Mon 7 to Thurs 10 Nov (4 days) Extension to Chaparri Thurs 10 Nov to Thurs 24 Nov (14 days) Chiclayo to Tarapoto In addition it is hoped to run some mixed and special interest tours for those with a passion for subjects other than birds through local guide Ronald Wagter. Details to be advised but may include historic and archaeological sites, museums, other wildlife and plants, general photography and culture. NOTES FOR TRAVEL FROM NEW ZEALAND OR AUSTRALIA FLIGHTS from New Zealand & Australia The airline which suits best for travelling from New Zealand or Australia is LAN Chile. There are flights most days from Auckland to Santiago with connections to Lima. At least 3 companies run flights from Lima to Tarapoto or to Chiclayo but LAN is probably best for non-peruvians. For travel from New Zealand, we recommend that these are booked through Latin Link, the specialist South American travel agents based in Wanaka who are able to arrange flights with LAN all the way to Tarapoto or Chiclayo at a very reasonable price (see contact details below). Latin Link Adventure (Gary Tate) 34 Eely Point Road, P.O. Box 352, Wanaka 9343, New Zealand Ph: , Fax: Freephone : ( within NZ only) info@latinlink.co.nz Internet: IMPORTANT NOTE NEOTROPICAL RIVER OTTERS We need a minimum of 5 people per tour. At the time of writing, we have interest in the 3 week June tour with the extension, the 2 week August tour (with Plataforma option) and for the 3 week October tour with extension. All tours still need more takers before we can confirm that they will run. It may be possible to make minor date changes in order to reach the minimum number.

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8 NORTH PERU AN OVERVIEW Peru is well-known as an exotic destination for visitors interested in history and culture in South America, as well as those seeking a variety of birds and other wildlife. Most tourism takes place in the south of the country as the town of Cusco has become a major attraction for its proximity to the famous ancient city at Machu Picchu. The north of the country is less well-known and this makes it an exciting area to visit for those seeking a more adventurous expedition as it is much more off the beaten track. The forests and mountains are more remote and much less explored. The northern half of the country stretches for a much greater east-west distance from Iquitos in the midst of the huge Amazon basin in the east across the Andes to the dry coastal region around the city of Chiclayo. Although the west facing slopes of the Andes are very dry, the more gradual slopes of the eastern side are often moist through high rainfall and produce richly diverse forests. Much of the original forest cover has been cleared over the years but those which remain are the precious sites which we visit on our tours. The main towns of the north which we visit on our tours are: Tarapoto Located in the east of San Martin province and in the valleys of the Cumbaza and Shilcayo rivers, close to the more major Huallaga and Mayo rivers and at an altitude of c.360 metres. It is known as the "City of Palms", a thriving commercial hub, located in the high jungle plateau to the east of what is known as the selva baja (low jungle). Although Moyobamba is the capital of the region, Tarapoto is the region's largest city with a population of c.117,000 including outlying districts and is well-known for its prolific fleet of motocars, taxis looking like motorised rickshaws, the most popular way of getting about. The busy town is about an hour & a quarter by air from Lima. We regard Tarapoto as the home of our tours as it is where our ground agent, Lluis, lives with his family, where his adjacent hotel Tucan Suites is located and it is a short distance from Pumarinri Lodge. Moyobamba Moyobamba is the capital city of the San Martín Region and has a population of c.43,000. Some 3,500 species of orchids are native to the area, which has led to the city's nickname of The City of Orchids. The city is linked by road with Tarapoto to the southeast, Rioja to the west and Bagua to the northwest. Roads connect Moyobamba to the Pacific coast by way of Bagua and Olmos to the north and Cajamarca to the southwest. Moyobamba is close to Waqanki, a family-owned reserve, well-known for its hummingbirds. It also leads to the riverside locations like Santa Elena and Tingana where we have recently investigated some exciting riverboat excursions. Jaen The city of Jaén is the capital of the Jaén Province in the Cajamarca Region of Peru. At an altitude of 740 metres above sea level it is considered part of the High Jungle region but the landscape around the town is primarily undulating hillsides with dry scrub and riverside marshes and rice fields. Rice is the main crop grown in the area. The city has a population of c.50,000 and is well off the tourist routes. The road leading north from here eventually reaches the Ecuador border. Chiclayo Chiclayo is the capital city of the Lambayeque region, located 13 kilometers inland from the Pacific coast and 770 kilometers from Lima. Currently, Chiclayo is one of the most important urban areas of Peru and is now the country's fourth-largest city, after Lima, Arequipa, and Trujillo. The city has a population of c.738,000, while the metropolitan area has a population of c.973,000. It has little tourism but with a busy airport, serves the north-west Tumbes region. 8 TE

9 PLACES WE STAY PUMARINRI AMAZON LODGE PUMARINRI AMAZON LODGE is surrounded by forests, rivers and streams, the site is a biological bridge, located in the confluence area where the montane forest at Cerro Escalera meets the lower rain forest at Cordillera Azul National Park and the drier forests further south. With 16 spacious rooms and two suites with balcony, it provides good comfort in the middle of the jungle. Excursions and trips can be made by land or river. The area has a wide variety of birds, butterflies and amphibians, which can be seen on the trails at the lodge or in the forest walks, waterfalls or communities. Features a swimming pool, balconies, hammocks, ceiling fans etc. New rooms with spa baths now supplement the older style rooms shown in the photo. TUCAN SUITES, TARAPOTO TUCAN SUITES APARTHOTEL is the first four star hotel in Tarapoto and the region of San Martín. Comfortable rooms and suites all equipped with living room, kitchenette and dining room, one or two bedrooms and bathrooms. Given the 9

10 tropical climate of Tarapoto, the hotel's design is also designed to enjoy the outdoor temperature. All apartments and suites are oriented towards the central pool and have a balcony or terrace front to rest and relax. The hotel has been designed with sustainability criteria, LED lighting, thermal solar hot water and all windows have insulated glass screens. Tucan Suites is used on our tours as a base from which to explore the montane forest around the Tunnel on the road to Yurimaguas, as well as nearby forest along the Shilcayo river. GOCTA ANDES LODGE In addition to one of the most spectacular views in Peru, GOCTA LODGE enjoys an exceptional climate and strategic location, which makes it the perfect base camp for exploring the whole region of the Chachapoyas, including Kuelap, the Utcubamba valley and birding sites along the highway eastwards towards Laguna Pomacochas. Its eight rooms and two suites are spacious and comfortable, all have excellent views of the falls. The exterior features a pool and spacious terraces with orchids. The Lodge is situated at the edge of the village of Cocochimba, a few kilometers up a rough road leading from the highway between Pedro Ruiz and Leymebamba. You can walk to the foot of the Falls directly from the Lodge or take a taxi round to San Pablo (across the valley) and take a different route to the centre point of the Falls. WAQANKI RESERVE & FRUITEATER LODGE This is a family run reserve about 3 kms from Moyobamba and at an elevation of c.900m, with a few comfortable but small ensuite bungalows and spacious dining area serving excellent meals. A large rectangular hole in the ground suggests that there will be a nice pool there one day. A short uphill walk leads to a 2-level wooden tower overlooking many hummingbird feeders attracting a variety of species. Above the lodge area is a trail leading to quite extensive primary and secondary forest of Quebrada Mishquiyacu. 10

11 OWLET LODGE, ABRA PATRICIA Alto Nieva Private Conservation Area protects montane forests and cloud forests, known habitat of many endemic and threatened species including the endangered Long-whiskered Owlet (Xenoglaux loweryi) and Ochre-fronted Antpitta Grallaricula ochraceifrons), among many other species of threatened and endemic animals. Many visitors have filmed video of the owlet while staying at Owlet Lodge. Owlet Lodge consists of three identical cabins with a total capacity of 18 people per night. Each cabin is divided into two identical suites. Each suite consists of a single bedroom, a double bedroom, a shared common entry room and shared bathroom with hot water. Each room has beds (bedding, blankets, pillows), bedside table, lamp, wardrobe, wall hooks for jackets, and windows. Towels, soap and shampoo are also provided. Single rooms look out onto hummingbird feeders. CASA MALLQUI Originally Casa Mallqui was designed as a residence for researchers. Over time, the building and the purpose were expanded to work as a rural lodge for visitors seeking a wide variety of experiences. It provides an excellent location for observers of local birds and wildlife, plants and magnificent scenery. The area includes numerous archaeological sites to which day trips can be arranged, providing opportunities to observe local markets and share the daily life of the communities of Leymebamba. It is possible to visit artisan shops of wood carvers and weavers that use traditional techniques and designs of the ancient Chachapoya. Local cuisine offers the famous Juanes and a great variety of native potatoes and other organic products. 11

12 The accommodation consisting of quality ensuite rooms is located in the same building as the famous Mummies museum containing the ancient remains discovered and brought down from the nearby high altitude lake Laguna del Condores and the collection of ancient artefacts from the Leymebamba area. Our tours stay here in order to travel on to the highest point of the tour at Abra Barro Negro (3600 m) and to the dry Maranon river valley at Balsas. HOTEL EL BOSQUE, JAEN The hotel is on a main road coming in to Jaen from the south and from the front it doesn't look anything special - in fact, it is quite easy to drive past it without even noticing it. But once you're inside, it is like the reality of Jaen is far away and you're in a little paradise. The rooms are little bungalows and very spacious, each with private bathrooms. There is a restaurant on site and plenty of other places to eat in the vicinity. An attractive feature of the hotel is the swimming pool area which is regularly maintained. It is in the middle of the complex with the bungalows all around. The grounds are beautifully maintained - coconut and mango trees all around. Easy access to the town by motocar, not far to Gotas de Agua where we find some special birds, also to the marshes and rice fields to the north of the town. LOS HORCONES DE TUCUME 12

13 This is the most westerly place where we stay, about 30 kms from Chiclayo. This is a substantial lodge with very spacious rooms and a main building with dining rooms. Open grounds include a pool and bush habitat with some species of birds we struggle to find elsewhere. This is our base for excursions to Bosque de Pomac and to the famous Pyramides de Tucume which start a mere 200 m or so from the Lodge. A little further is a museum with an excellent display of local historic and cultural attractions. CHAPARRI ECOLODGE Chaparri is a charming rustic ecolodge in the dry western slopes of the Andes about an hour and a half s drive east of Chiclayo. It has 6 ensuite double cabins (the ones our tours use) & 5 double rooms with shared bathroom facilities; hot water from solar panels, open air dining area, some traditional cuisine (& earth oven) and a bar service. Buildings constructed in traditional style with adobe and stone with local artwork. Appealing interaction with local wildlife; mammals like Sechuran Fox and Collared Peccary are familiar visitors to the dining area. Local guides and wide network of trails through the characteristic dry scrub. Hammocks, natural pool to swim in. BIRDING SPECIES POSSIBILITIES Selection of species we might see at sites we visit. Black-banded Owl PUMARINRI White-banded & White-winged Swallows, Drab Water-Tyrant, Blackfronted Nunbird, Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper, Green-backed Trogon, Paradise, Turquoise & Opal-crowned Tanagers, Yellow-browed Tody- Flycatcher, Fiery-capped Manakin, Chestnut-eared & Lettered Aracaris, Purple-throated Fruitcrow, Hoatzin, Fasciated Tiger-Heron, Pale-rumped Swift, Swallow-wing; Grey-fronted Dove, Tropical Screech, Ferruginous Pygmy, Crested, Band-bellied and Black-banded Owls (photo). QUEBRADA UPAQUIHUA & THE MARSH Masked Duck, Wattled Jacana, Green Kingfisher, Black-capped Donacobius, Cobalt-winged & Canary-winged Parakeets, Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant, Bluish-fronted Jacamar, Great Antshrike, Barred Antshrike, Violaceous Jay, White-browed Antbird, Barred and Northern Slaty Antshrikes, Blue-crowned Trogon, Mishana Tyrannulet, Lafresnaye s Piculet, Ashy-headed Greenlet, Comb Duck, Pied Lapwing, Sand-coloured Nighthawk, Brown-crested Flycatcher, Stripe-chested Antwren. Russetcrowned Crake. 13

14 THE TUNNEL White-tipped Swift, Black-faced Dacnis, White Hawk, Military Macaw, Gould s Jewelfront, Koepcke s Hermit, Blackish Pewee, Ornate Flycatcher, Rufous-winged Antwren, Black Antbird, Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, Golden-collared Toucanet, Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo, Smoky Brown, Red-stained & Lineated Woodpeckers, Plumbeous & Bronze-Green Euphonias, Blue-naped Chlorophonia, Peruvian & Mishana Tyrannulets, Swallow-, Masked, Yellow-bellied, White-winged and Dotted Tanagers, Slaty-capped & Dusky-chested Flycatchers, Purple Honeycreeper, Lanceolated Monklet. Black-faced Dacnis LAGUNA SAUCE Crimson-crested Woodpecker, Screaming Piha, Least Grebe, Blue-crowned Trogon, Striolated Puffbird, Whitefronted Nunbird, Hauxwell s Thrush quite unexplored for birds. Rufous-crested Coquette WAQANKI & MISHQUIYACU Hummers including Golden-tailed Sapphire, Rufousbreasted & Black-throated Hermit, Sapphire-spangled Emerald, Long-billed Starthroat, Rufous-crested Coquette, Wire-crested Thorntail, Green Violetear & Black-throated Mango. Sooty-headed & Black-capped Tyrannulets, Channel-billed Toucan, Chestnut-throated Spinetail, Stripe-chested & Foothill Antwrens, Varzea Thrush, Fiery-throated Fruiteater, Orange-billed Sparrow, Wing-barred Piprites, Fiery-capped Manakin, Roraiman Flycatcher, Ocellated Woodcreeper, Whitebellied Pygmy-Tyrant, White-throated Spadebill, Spotbacked Antbird, Ivory-billed Aracari, Collared Trogon, Golden-collared Toucanet. TINGANA RIO MAYO Relatively unexplored. Herons, kingfishers, Buff-throated Woodcreeper, Rufous-crested Coquette, Pinkthroated Becard, Oriole Blackbird, Thrush-like Wren, Slender-billed Kite, Silvered Antbird, Agami Heron, Boatbilled Heron, Limpkin, and probably many other lowland forest & waterside birds, as at Rio Romero. RIO ROMERO AT SANTA ELENA Green & Rufous Kingfisher, Elegant Woodcreeper, Rufous-headed and Cream-coloured Woodpeckers, Limpkin, Sungrebe, Anhinga, Double-toothed Kite, Slate-coloured Hawk, Band-tailed Antbird, Pygmy Kingfisher, Agami Heron, Silvered Antbird, White-throated Toucan, Many-banded Aracari, Mouse-coloured Antshrike, Amazonian Antwren, Pygmy Antwren, Thrush-like Antpitta, Buff-breasted Wren, Lawrence s Thrush. RIOJA & ROADSIDE SAVANNA Masked Duck, Least Grebe, Russet-crowned Crake, Point-tailed Palmcreeper, Stripe-necked Tody-Tyrant, Yellow Tyrannulet, Yellow-bellied, Small-billed & Lesser Elaenias, Cinereous-breasted Spinetail, Rusty-backed Antwren, Pale-eyed Blackbird, Black-billed Seed-Finch, Black-bellied Tanager, Scaled Pigeon. AGUAS VERDES Little & Tataupa Tinamou, Blackish Rail, Rufous-breasted Wood-Quail, Little Cuckoo, Napo Sabrewing, Blackmandibled Toucan, Golden-collared Toucanet, Dusky 14 Masked Duck

15 Speckle-chested Piculet Spinetail, Crested Foliage-Gleaner, Tschudi s Woodcreeper, Russet & Lined Antshrikes, Yellow-breasted and Rufous-winged Antwrens, Zimmer s Antbird, Short-tailed Ant-thrush, Thrush-like Antpitta, Ochre-breasted Antpitta, Scaled Fruiteater, White-browed Purpletuft, Red-shouldered Tanager, Burnished-Buff Tanager. AFLUENTE Vermilion Tanager, Lyre-tailed Nightjar, Orange-breasted Falcon, White-throated Quail-Dove, Pale-eyed Thrush, Scaled and Scarletbreasted Fruiteaters, Ash-throated Antwren, Speckle-chested Piculet, Golden-eared, Yellow-throated, White-winged, Golden & Blue-browed Tanagers, Ecuadorian Piedtail, Equatorial Greytail, Olive-chested Flycatcher, Rufous-rumped Antwren, Goldencollared Honeycreeper, Ash-browed Spinetail, Black-billed Treehunter, Yellow-cheeked Becard, Ornate Flycatcher. ABRA PATRICIA Long-whiskered Owlet, Cinnamon Screech Owl, Lyre-tailed Nightjar, Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager, flowerpiercers, Metallic Green, Yellow-scarfed, Grass Green, Red-hooded and Whitecapped Tanagers, Crimson-bellied & Crimson-mantled Woodpeckers, White-faced Nunbird, Common Potoo, Rufousvented Tapaculo, Sharpe s & Chestnut-breasted Wrens, Striped Treehunter, Chestnut-crested Cotinga, Whitethroated Screech Owl, Rufous Spinetail, Variable Antshrike, Long-tailed Antbird, Rusty-tinged, Rustybreasted, Ochre-fronted & Chestnut Antpittas, Lulu s Tody-Tyrant, Royal Sunangel, Bar-winged Wood-Wren, Barred Becard, Spotted Barbtail. RIO CHIDO TRAIL, SAN LORENZO Pale-billed Antpitta, Russet-mantled Softtail, Greybreasted Mountain-Toucan, Rusty-tinged Antpitta, Rustybreasted Antpitta, Rufous-capped Antshrike, Large-footed Tapaculo, Johnson s Tody-Tyrant, Mountain Velvetbreast, Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant, Smoky Bush-Tyrant. Marvelous Spatuletail HUEMBO Marvelous Spatuletail, plus at least 11 more Long-whiskered Owlet hummingbirds including Little Woodstar. Sickle-winged Guan, Andean Guan, Masked Trogon, Emerald Toucanet, Specklechested Piculet, Rufous-vented Tapaculo, Speckle-breasted Wren, Gray-breasted Wood-Wren. GOCTA FALLS AREA Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, Maranon Thrush, Andean Solitaire, Smoky Brown Woodpecker, White-bellied Hummingbird, Goldenbellied Grosbeak, Hooded Siskin, Golden-rumped Euphonia, Russet-backed & Crested Oropendolas, Olive-backed & Montane Woodcreepers, Emerald Toucanet, Blackish Tapaculo, Specklechested Piculet, Rufous-winged Tyrannulet, Mitred Parakeet, Buff-bellied, Blue-necked, Beryl-spangled & Flame-faced 15

16 Tanagers, Sparkling & Green Violetears, Yellow-bellied and Black & White Seedeaters, Azara s Spinetail, Rufous-capped Antshrike, Chestnut-crested Cotinga, Chestnut-crowned Antpitta, Montane Woodcreeper, Golden-winged & Lulu s Tody-Tyrants, Flavescent Flycatcher, tanagers, Lineated Foliage-gleaner, Rusty-winged Barbtail, White-eared Solitaire. KUELAP RUINS Plumbeous Rail, Band-tailed Pigeon, Mountain Caracara, Streaked Tuftedcheek, White-browed Chat-Tyrant, White-banded Tyrannulet, Black-throated Flowerpiercer, Rufous-naped Brush- Finch, Buff-browed Foliage-Gleaner, Sword-billed Hummingbird, Shining Sunbeam, other hummingbirds. LEYMEBAMBA & ABRA BARRO NEGRO Andean Lapwing, Andean Flicker, Mountain Caracara, Scarletbellied Mountain Tanager, Moustached Flowerpiercer, Whitechinned Thistletail, Rusty-crowned Tit-Spinetail, Tufted Tit-Tyrant, Rufous Antpitta, Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant, Shining Sunbeam, Tyrian & Coppery Metaltails, Great Sapphirewing, Blue-backed Conebill, Plumbeous Sierra-Finch, Plain-coloured Seedeater, Paramo Pipit, Grey-breasted Mountain-Toucan, Golden-headed Quetzal, Koepcke s Screech Owl. Andean Cock-of-the-Rock MARANON RIVER AT BALSAS Long-tailed Mockingbird, Vermilion Flycatcher, Black-necked Woodpecker, Buff-bridled Inca Finch, Scarletfronted Parakeet, Peruvian Pygmy Owl, Bare-faced Ground-Dove, Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Aplomado Falcon, Fasciated Wren, Yellow-faced Parrotlet. Peruvian Pygmy Owl GOTAS DE AGUA / JAEN Collared Antshrike, Red-crested Finch, Tataupa Tinamou, Maranon Crescentchest, Little Inca Finch, Scarlet-backed Woodpecker, Peruvian Pygmy Owl, Yellow-tailed Oriole, Rufousfronted Thornbird, Maranon and Chinchipe Spinetails; Fasciated Wren, Purple-collared Woodstar, Scarlet-fronted Parakeet LIMON DE PORCULLA Andean Tinamou, Aplomado Falcon, porcullae race of Gray-chinned Hermit, Black-cowled Saltator, Chapman s Antshrike, Bay-crowned Brush-Finch, Whitewinged & White-headed Brush-Finch, Rufous-necked Foliagegleaner, Henna-headed Foliage-gleaner, Piura Chat-Tyrant, Three-banded Warbler, Grey & Gold Warbler, Yellow-bellied Seedeater, Black and White Seedeater, Ecuadorian Piculet, BOSQUE DE POMAC Peruvian Plantcutter, Tumbes Swallow, Rufous Flycatcher, Snowythroated Kingbird, Necklaced Spinetail, Superciliated Wren, Coastal Miner, Pacific Elaenia, Rufous-winged Tyrannulet, Scarletbacked Woodpecker, Streak-headed Woodcreeper, White-edged Oriole, plus other Tumbesian and dry forest birds. Occasionally the coastal race of the Black-faced Ibis. Tumbes Tyrant 16

17 Line-cheeked Spinetail, White-bellied Antpitta, Pallid Dove, Grey-cheeked Parakeet, Chestnut-collared Swallow, Whitetailed Tyrannulet. Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant SANTA ROSA & PUERTO ETEN Peruvian & Blue-footed Boobies, Peruvian & Brown Pelicans, Guanay Cormorants, Waved Albatross, Chilean Skua, Cinnamon Teal, White-cheeked & Yellow-billed Pintail, other wildfowl, Grey, Franklin s & Belcher s Gulls, Peruvian, South American, Royal, Elegant & Inca Terns, many shorebirds, Peruvian Thick-knee, Tawny-throated Dotterel, Least Seedsnipe, Short-tailed Field-Tyrant, Chestnut-collared Swallow, Parrot-billed Seedeater, Wrenlike Rushbird, Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant, Burrowing Owl. CHAPARRI & CASUPE White-winged Guan, White-tailed Jay, Tumbes Tyrant, Elegant Crescentchest, Pacific Elaenia, Grey & White Tyrannulet, Baird s Flycatcher, White-edged Oriole, Collared Warbling-Finch, Andean Tinamou, Short-tailed Woodstar, Tumbes Sparrow, Tumbes Hummingbird, Redmasked Parakeet, Pacific Parrotlet, Parrot-billed Seedeater, Cinereous Finch, Short-tailed Field-Tyrant, Henna-hooded Foliage-Gleaner, Ecuadorian Trogon, Black-cowled Saltator, Grey and Gold Warbler, Threebanded Warbler. BELLAVISTA & PLATAFORMA Scarlet-banded Barbet, Versicoloured Barbet, Comb Duck, Pied Lapwing, Yellow-billed Tern, Large-billed Tern, Black Hawk-Eagle, King Vulture, Orange-breasted Falcon, Grey-headed Kite, Subtropical Pygmy Owl, Yungas & Blue-rumped Manakins, Lined Antshrike, Plain Antvireo, Yellow-vented Woodpecker; Slaty, Yellowbreasted & Dot-winged Antwrens, Rufous-breasted Ant-thrush, Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant, Pale-eyed Thrush, Three-striped Warbler, Grey-mantled Wren, Greybreasted & White-breasted Wood-Wrens, Golden, White-winged Guan Blue-necked, Saffron-crowned & Orange-eared Tanagers, Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager, Bronze- Green Euphonia, Rufous-rumped & Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaners, Strong-billed & Wedge-billed Woodcreepers, Booted Racket-tail. Orange-eared Tanager 17

18 ITINERARIES THREE WEEK TOUR departures 6 JUNE, 22 AUGUST & 13 OCTOBER DAY 1 PUMARINRI Arrive Tarapoto. Transfer by minibus to Pumarinri Amazon Lodge, about a 40 minute journey. Transfers from the airport at any pre-arranged time. Local birding or sightseeing for anyone arriving in daylight. o/n Pumarinri DAY 2 PUMARINRI trails, boat trip. Birding on the slopes of the Huallaga River at c.230 metres altitude. Common tanagers, woodcreepers, flycatchers, icterids etc. Boat trip upriver in afternoon. Spotlighting by the Lodge in the evening. o/n Pumarinri DAY 3 PUMARINRI Pucayaquillo Waterfall All day Pumarinri, local trails. Waterfall trail, good forest birding with chance of antbirds & opportunity to swim in the waterfall pool. Cave trail later for more antbirds. Spotlighting around lodge in eve. Local guide Henri. o/n Pumarinri DAY 4 QUEBRADA UPAQUIHUA & HUALLAGA RIVER Early start, leave Pumarinri for the day & drive south down main road past roadside wetland to Buenos Aires. Head north-west from there to some good areas of dry forest at Quebrada Upaquihua. Return from Buenos Aires to Pumarinri by boat. o/n Pumarinri DAY 5 JUAN GUERRA, TARAPOTO Early start, leave Pumarinri & drive back in direction of Tarapoto, spend morning at the dry forest at Juan Guerra. Late lunch at Tucan Suites, a very new 4 star hotel at edge of town, local birding in afternoon or relax, tour the town, etc. o/n Tucan Suites DAY 6 THE TUNNEL at CERRO ESCALERA Early morning departure north-eastwards from the town to the high forested ridge at Cerro Escalera and the 100 metre Tunnel. o/n Tucan Suites DAY 7 TARAPOTO to MOYOBAMBA Early morning departure westwards. Stop on route at Oilbird roost site under Quiscarrumi Bridge, then to Waqanki Reserve to view up to 15 species of hummingbirds. Lunch on site, savannah birding. Evening spotlighting. o/n Waqanki DAY 8 MOYOBAMBA to ABRA PATRICIA Walk trail at Quebrada Mishquiyacu with local guide. Leave late a.m, arriving Abra Patricia by late p.m. Evening walk to look for Long-whiskered Owlet. o/n Owlet Lodge DAY 9 ABRA PATRICIA All day at Abra Patricia (2,300 metres), birding the trails and roadside on foot from the lodge in morning and late afternoon to evening, spotlighting for Cinnamon Screech Owl. o/n Owlet Lodge DAY 10 ABRA PATRICIA & evening drive to GOCTA Abra Patricia morning birding, drive to nearby sites for Royal Sunangel & other species. Depart late afternoon & continue west to Pedro Ruiz. Turn south onto minor road to Cocochimba and to Gocta Lodge. o/n Gocta DAY 11 RIO CHIDO TRAIL & HUEMBO Early morning drive back east to Rio Chido Trail at San Lorenzo for some special rarities including several antpittas. On to Huembo in the afternoon for a variety of hummingbirds including Marvellous Spatuletail. o/n Gocta DAY 12 GOCTA FALLS (the low road) Walk directly from Lodge to foot of Gocta Falls (c.4 hours but birding will make it longer), take packed lunch. Evening walk in nearby scrub. o/n Gocta DAY 13 ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE AT KUELAP 18

19 Leave early for day at Kuelap ruins, an ancient Chachapoyas settlement high above the road, with local guide, some birding. Lunch in nearby village. o/n Gocta DAY 14 GOCTA to LEYMEBAMBA, UTCUBAMBA RIVER Drive south from Gocta, road rises slowly along Utcubamba River, roadside stops for Torrent Duck & other specialities. Arrive Leymebamba for lunch. Visit Mummies Museum in afternoon. Birding in museum gardens, spotlighting. o/n Casa Mallqui, Leymebamba DAY 15 ABRA BARRO NEGRO & UPPER MARANON VALLEY Day trip to Abra Barro Negro, the high pass rising to 3600 metres, roadside stops for high altitude specialities, then down to Balsas in the hot, dry Maranon valley. Back to Leymebamba at dusk. o/n Casa Mallqui, Leymebamba DAY 16 RIO ATUEN VALLEY, LEYMEBAMBA to GOCTA Morning up the Rio Atuen valley in local 4WD vehicles to private forest with hummer feeders. Lunch at café near the museum, then leave to return to Gocta via Chachapoyas. o/n Gocta DAY 17 GOCTA FALLS (the high road) Another visit to the Falls today starting with a drive up to San Pablo with packed lunch, walk through varied habitat to viewpoint and on to centre point of Falls. o/n Gocta DAY 18 GOCTA to JAEN Leave Gocta, head back to Pedro Ruiz & go west along the highway beside the Utcubamba River to Jaen. Roadside stops for birding. Afternoon in riverside and marsh habitat along Bellavista road north of Jaen. o/n Hotel El Bosque, Jaen DAY 19 GOTAS DE AGUA, JAEN to TUCUME via ABRA PORCULLA Morning at local reserve, Gotas de Agua with owner & local guide, Luciano Troyes. Dry bush & scrub habitat. Lunch in Jaen, then depart for Tucume via the pass at Limon de Porculla. Evening birding / spotlighting. o/n Los Horcones de Tucume DAY 20 BOSQUE DE POMAC All day in the Bosque de Pomac area & the Pyramids. We are now west of the Andes and within range of many new species. o/n Los Horcones de Tucume DAY 21 PUERTO ETEN & CHICLAYO THREE WEEK TOUR ENDS, EXTENSION STARTS Leave Tucume and head for the coast via the town of Chiclayo. Explore the coastal lagoons, sand dunes, marshes & cliffs at Pimentel & Puerto Eten. End of Tour 1 transfer to Chiclayo Airport. For those on extension, evening transfer to Chaparri Lodge o/n Chaparri Lodge DAY 22 CHAPARRI LODGE All day birding trails around the Lodge area is extensive and hilly dry forest & scrub. Site of captive breeding program for the endangered White-winged Guan. Local guide. o/n Chaparri Lodge DAY 23 CHAPARRI LODGE Most of day at Casupe. Various roadside stops for speciality birds. o/n Chaparri Lodge DAY 24 CHAPARRI CHICLAYO HOME EXTENSION ENDS Leave Chaparri for Chiclayo via Laguna Tinajones. To airport for afternoon flight to Lima or overnight in Chiclayo for flight next morning. 19

20 TWO WEEK TOUR departures 29 JUNE and 5 NOVEMBER DAY 1 CHAPARRI CHICLAYO PUERTO ETEN - TUCUME Neotropical River Otters Arrive Chiclayo. Explore the coastal lagoons, sand dunes and marshes between Pimentel & Puerto Eten. Seawatching from top of hill south of Puerto Eten. o/n Los Horcones de Tucume DAY 2 BOSQUE DE POMAC All day in the Bosque de Pomac area & visit the Pyramids. Look for specialities of the western side of the Andes. Lunch at Los Horcones. Optional afternoon visit to the Museo Tumbes Reales in Lambayeque. Spotlighting in evening. o/n Los Horcones de Tucume DAY 3 TUCUME TO JAEN via ABRA PORCULLA Leave Tucume early & head east to Chamaya & Jaen. High altitude birding in morning at Abra Porcullo. Arrive Jaen late afternoon, check-in at hotel. Early evening in riverside and marsh habitat along Bellavista road north of Jaen. o/n Hotel El Bosque, Jaen DAY 4 JAEN TO GOCTA Early morning drive to Gotas de Agua near the town dry woodland & scrub reserve, guided by owner, Luciano Troyes. Lunch in Jaen. Afternoon drive to Gocta with roadside stops. o/n Gocta Lodge DAY 5 GOCTA FALLS VIA SAN PABLO Drive across valley to San Pablo & walk trail to centre part of Gocta Falls, via viewpoint. All day, packed lunch. o/n Gocta Lodge DAY 6 RIO CHIDO & HUEMBO Early departure to village of San Lorenzo further east along highway. Steep trail for antpittas. Return to Huembo, a special reserve for hummingbirds including Marvellous Spatuletail. Lunch there, return to Gocta. Option to visit Kuelap archaeological ruins in place of either today s or yesterday s excursion. o/n Gocta Lodge DAY 7 GOCTA TO ABRA PATRICIA Depart Gocta Lodge and drive east along highway to Abra Patricia. Arrive mid-morning. Birding trails & road for rest of day. Evening walk to look for Long-whiskered Owlet. o/n Owlet Lodge DAY 8 ABRA PATRICIA All day birding at Abra Patricia, spotlighting for Cinnamon Screech Owl. o/n Owlet Lodge DAY 9 ABRA PATRICIA TO MOYOBAMBA CALZADA & WAKANKI Leave Abra Patricia & head east to Moyobamba via Royal Sunangel site, Afluente, Yacumama & Morro de Calzada. Spotlighting for nightjars. o/n Waqanki DAY 10 MOYOBAMBA TO TARAPOTO Observe hummingbirds from tower at Waqanki, walk trail at Quebrada Mishquiyacu in morning. Lunch at Waqanki. Afternoon drive to Tarapoto via Quiscarrumi Bridge for Oilbirds. Evening birding along Shilcayo River. o/n Tucan Suites, Tarapoto 20

21 DAY 11 THE TUNNEL CERRO ESCALERA Day trip to the Tunnel at Cerro Escalera, montane forest north of the town on the road to Yurimaguas, birding both sides of the 100m Tunnel; box lunch. o/n Tucan Suites, Tarapoto DAY 12 JUAN GUERRA & PUMARINRI Leave Tarapoto & travel south to village of Juan Guerra. Trail eastwards into the forest from here during morning. On to Pumarinri for lunch. Afternoon boat ride upriver to Shapaja. o/n Pumarinri Lodge DAY 13 PUMARINRI WATERFALL TRAIL Morning walk up rainforest trail to Pucayaquillo Waterfalls. Good for antbirds & raptors. Chance to swim in waterfall pool. o/n Pumarinri Lodge DAY 14 QUEBRADA UPAQUIHUA & HUALLAGA RIVER Day trip south to village of Buenos Aires & into dry white-sand forest at Quebrada Upaquilla. Roadside stop at wetland & lagoon on route. Morning forest birding, lunch there. Then at Buenos Aires, take boat downriver all the way back to Pumarinri. o/n Pumarinri Lodge DAY 15 TARAPOTO - HOME Second tour ends, transfers as required from Pumarinri to Tarapoto Airport for flight to Lima and home. SPECIAL TWO WEEK TOUR with PLATAFORMA OPTION Sat 8 Aug CHICLAYO TUCUME Arrive Chiclayo on morning flight. Maybe arrive previous evening & stay o/n in Chiclayo? Birding coastal area around Puerto Eten and Santa Rosa. Leave in afternoon for Tucume. o/n Horcones de Tucume Sun 9 Aug TUCUME BOSQUE DE POMAC All day in the Bosque de Pomac area & visit the Pyramids in afternoon. Lunch at Los Horcones. Spotlighting in evening. o/n Horcones de Tucume Mon 10 Aug TUCUME TO GOCTA via ABRA PORCULLO Leave Tucume very early & head east to Limon de Porcullo. Birding here during the morning. Continue to Gocta with roadside stops. o/n Gocta Tues 11 Aug HUAYLLA BELEN All day trip to high altitude forest above Luya. o/n Gocta Wed 12 Aug GOCTA TO ABRA PATRICIA Depart Gocta Lodge and drive east along highway to Abra Patricia. Birding at Huembo. Arrive afternoon. Trails at Abra Patricia and for Long-whiskered Owlet. o/n Owlet Lodge Thurs 13 Aug AFLUENTE TO TINGANA 21

22 Depart Owlet Lodge, birding at Afluente and Aguas Verdes. To Rio Mayo via Calzada. Boat on Rio Mayo to Tingana. o/ntingana Fri 14 Aug TINGANA and RIO MAYO Early riverboat trip. Lowland forest birding for rest of day. o/n Tingana Sat 15 Aug TINGANA to WAQANKI Early departure & back to Moyobamba. Roadside / savannah, hummers at Waqanki, spotlighting. o/n Waqanki Sun 16 Aug WAQANKI RIO ROMERO Early departure for Santa Elena. Boat trip up Rio Romero for 4 hours. Mon 17 Aug WAQANKI MISHQUIYAQUILLO TARAPOTO PUMARINRI Early walk up Mishquiyacu trail until midday. Leave for Tarapoto afternoon via Oilbirds. Tues 18 Aug THE TUNNEL at CERRO ESCALERA Day trip to the high forested ridge at Cerro Escalera and the 100 metre Tunnel. o/n Waqanki o/n Tucan Suites o/n Tucan Suites Wed 19 Aug LAGUNA SAUCE PUMARINRI Leave Tarapoto. Day at Laguna Sauce, roadside marsh, Henry s reserve, large wetland near Tarapoto bypass. Baggage goes separately. o/n Pumarinri Thurs 20 Aug PUMARINRI Pucayaquillo Waterfall All day Pumarinri, local trails. Waterfall trail, good forest birding. Spotlighting around lodge in eve. o/n Pumarinri Fri 21 Aug PUMARINRI Quebrada Upaquihua Drive south down main road past roadside wetland, eventually to a little village called Buenos Aires. Head north-west from there to some good areas of dry forest at Quebrada Upaquihua. Return from Buenos Aires to Pumarinri by river boat. o/n Pumarinri Sat 22 Aug To Tarapoto. Fly home. ALTERNATIVE to the final 3 days of the tour: MUD AND BARBETS - 3 day trip to Plataforma Wed 19 Aug BELLAVISTA PLATAFORMA Early departure for Plataforma, all day travel, mainly in 4WD, with driver and Carlos. Thurs 20 Aug PLATAFORMA All day forest birding, look for Barbets. Fri 21 Aug BELLAVISTA TARAPOTO Return to Tarapoto via Bellavista & roadside stops o/n Plataforma o/n Plataforma o/n Tucan Suites Sat 22 Aug Fly home. 22

23 REPORT FROM 2014 NORTH PERU BIRD TOUR 21 OCT to 13 NOV 2014 (& pre-tour 27 Sept to 20 Oct) Our 7 week visit to Peru this year began with a 3 week pre-tour in which Detlef and Carol travelled from Chiclayo to Tarapoto. We spent some time ensuring that we could find our way around the coastal region of Puerto Eten which was to form part of the impending tour for the first time. Likewise we spent a morning in Bosque de Pomac to locate the area where the dry forest specialities were to be found. The tour was also to stay overnight at Waqanki Reserve for the first time; this is a well-known hummingbird place and we spent 2 nights there on this pre-tour, giving us time to take the trail into the forest at Mishquiyacu. With the excellent assistance of resident guide, Carlos, we found some unexpected species not recorded before on our tours, such as Fiery-throated Fruiteater (on the nest), Ornate Antwren, Wing-barred Piprites and Ivory-billed Aracari. The tour would be in for a treat here! We visited 2 other sites with a view to including them in future tour itineraries in Both were within a reasonable distance of the main east-west highway. The first was a boat trip along the Rio Romero at Santa Elena which we had read about in a trip report. As we were paddled quietly along the slow-moving river in the early morning stillness, the first of c.5 Green & Rufous Kingfishers confirmed that we were in the right place for some new specialities. In the 4 hour canoeride we went on to find Rufous-headed and Cream-coloured Woodpeckers, Band-tailed Antbird, Elegant Woodcreeper and Sungrebe, also a Neotropical River Otter eating a fish. The other site was a similar canoe-ride along the Rio Avisado at Tingana which would undoubtedly have produced a similar array of species on a drier day and from an earlier start. Amidst a number of pre-tour administrative tasks in Tarapoto, the final adventure prior to the guests arrival was our expedition to see the recently discovered Scarlet-banded Barbet at a site of difficult access south-east of Tarapoto. With Carlos s help as guide we found the Barbet along with another selection of new species such as Yungas Manakin & Rufous-rumped Foliage-Gleaner. We had reservations about including this in a future tour but we later thought about including it as an optional extra and have prepared a dossier for this which makes it clear that it is not for the nervous! On 21 st October our 7 guests arrived and were picked up from 4 different flights at Tarapoto Airport. We welcomed Kerry-Jayne and Robert from New Zealand, Linda and Phil from Australia and Barbara, Randy and Elaine from the USA. The tour started at Pumarinri Lodge on the banks of the Huallaga River, allowing access to both rainforest in close proximity and drier forest further south. The trail to Pucayaquillo Waterfall and the visit to Quebrada Upaquihua (with a return by boat) were very productive, particularly with the help of local guide, Henry. Sightings of birds such as Chestnut-eared and Lettered Aracari, Red-necked Woodpecker, Sand-coloured Nighthawk and male Band-tailed Manakin were particularly popular. Henry also accompanied us to the well-known Tunnel which cuts across the top of a 1000m high ridge along the road to Yurimaguas. Since last year we had heard about a new forest project with some hummingbird feeders beyond the Tunnel so we checked this out. The highlight among the hummers was the lovely Gould s Jewelfront. 23

24 Heading west along the main highway we stopped to look at the Oilbirds in the ravine below a road bridge. For the first time we didn t need our torches as we happened to time it such that the sun shone directly down the narrow ravine, showing the birds at their best. Waqanki Reserve lived up to expectations and we saw 15 species of hummingbirds there, including the bizarre Rufous-crested Coquette. Carlos accompanied us on the following morning s forest walk, producing superb views of Fiery-throated Fruiteater, then he joined us for part of our onward journey to Abra Patricia. One roadside spot at the village of Afluente has a habit of turning up mixed flocks of tanagers, furnarids and the like a haul of Golden, Green and Gold, Golden-eared and White-winged Tanagers was well up to standard. The cloud forest at Abra Patricia is an extensive protected area and well-known to birders around the world. We retained our 100% success rate with Long-whiskered Owlet and with a supporting cast of species like Royal Sunangel, Cinnamon Screech Owl, Yellowscarfed Tanager and, for a couple of us, the very scarce Crimsonbellied Woodpecker, we left here quite elated. The next week of the tour took us to higher altitudes, particularly our highest point of 3600 metres at Abra Barro Negro. Our base for most of this period was Gocta Lodge which provides breathtaking views of Gocta Falls, among the highest falls in the world. From here we made excursions to Kuelap archaeological site which lies at over 3000m and is the north s answer to Machu Picchu; also to Leymebamba where we spent 2 nights at Casa Mallqui this lies within the grounds of the famous Mummies Museum. Local English-speaking and historical expert guide, Ronald assisted us as guide both at Kuelap and at Leymebamba, as he has done on our previous tours. After our first day at Gocta, Carol returned to New Zealand to attend to B&B bookings so Detlef continued as sole guide. We also said farewell to Randy and Elaine who were limited to a 2 week tour and they returned to the USA after the Leymebamba section. 24

25 Our furthest point south in this direction was the Maranon River at Balsas. At just 800 m altitude, it was a huge drop from 3600m where we had been in the early morning that day but a considerable rise in temperature. Birding in the high Andes was very different from the forests further east. Specialities included Andean Condor, Grey-breasted Mountain Toucan and Golden-headed Quetzal; also a selection of species from the elfin forest and scrub such as Moustached Flowerpiercer, Great Sapphirewing and Blue-backed Conebill. The dry scrub around Balsas gave us a taste of the typical dry forest birds which would become common further west, such as Vermilion Flycatcher and Long-tailed Mockingbird. Near the town of Jaen is a small private reserve called Gotas de Agua, famous for getting views of the beautiful but skulking Maranon Crescentchest. This time we had the added bonus of seeing rather than just hearing the shy Tataupa Tinamou. Our final cultural experience was the pyramids and musem at Tucume, our next port of call from which to explore the dry forest at Bosque de Pomac. This forest and the surroundings to our lodge at Los Horcones de Tucume are home to a different set of common species from those we had got used to on the east of the Andes Baird s Flycatcher, Grey and white Tyrannulet, Necklaced Spinetail, Streak-headed Woodcreeper, etc. The final day of the main tour was spent in the coastal marshes, lagoons and sea cliffs around the coastal town of Puerto Eten, not far from Chiclayo. Here we were able to add many species of wildfowl, shorebirds and reed-bed specialities (including the amazing Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant) to our list, which for the tour alone reached 491 today. From the cliff-top thousands of Peruvian Pelicans, Blue-footed and Peruvian Boobies, Guanay Cormorants and a few Inca Terns and Magnificent Frigatebirds formed a constant motion picture while a solitary Waved Albatross sat alone on the sea. Tonight we said goodbye to Linda and Phil Cross and to our tireless driver, Elvis, and I took the 3 remaining guests, Kerry-Jayne, Barbara and Robert, to Chaparri Reserve for our extension in a smaller vehicle with a new driver, Obar. Chaparri was set up originally to protect the endangered White-winged Guan which was thought extinct for many years; the captive breeding program here has been very successful and many birds have been released into the wild. Chaparri is well known too for South American mammals Guanaco, Collared Peccaries, White-tailed Deer and Sechuran Foxes are easily seen around the Lodge, the peccaries and foxes sometimes appearing under the dining room tables. Spectacled Bears are in the area but sightings are only occasional, other than a small group of them which can be observed within a fenced off area for captive breeding. Local guide, Antero, assisted in finding many of the regions rare birds such as Elegant Crescentchest, Tumbes Tyrant, Andean Tinamou and Tumbes Hummingbird. Visits to Casupe, accessed on the rough roads from Chaparri on the last full day, and to Tinajones Reservoir on the final morning were our final destinations, both were new to me as guide and both produced some specialities. The tour and extension ended at Chiclayo Airport with a final bird list of 540 of which just 18 were only heard, figures still to be confirmed at the time of writing, once photos of some unidentified species are examined later. The addition of species seen on the pre-tour only brought the total to over 600. The leaders thank the guests for contributing to such an enjoyable trip with their observational skills, photos and video. 25

26 In visiting this part of Peru in October & November, rather than in June & July as previously, we opened up possibilities of finding migrant species from North America. We found several warblers like Canada and Blackburnian, Eastern & Western Wood Pewees, Olive-sided Flycatcher, Eastern Kingbirds, and a number of shorebirds like Least and Baird s Sandpipers, Lesser Yellowlegs and Wilson s Phalarope. The weather may be less reliable than mid-year although we were lucky with only 2 days when rain interfered to any extent with birding. The success of this tour will pave the way for more in 2015 when this and a shorter tour are proposed to be linked together with the extension in the middle. Links to some of the lodges and birding sites are set out below: Photos show: Cream-coloured Woodpecker Band-tailed Manakin Sand-coloured Nighthawks Gould s Jewelfront Blue-backed Conebill Golden-headed Quetzal Elegant Crescentchest Pelicans, boobies & cormorants, etc at Puerto Eten 26 North Peru Bird Tours 180 Landing Road Kerikeri 0230 New Zealand detlefdavies@yahoo.com carolanndavies@yahoo.com DETLEF and CAROL DAVIES BIRDERS REST, 180 LANDING ROAD, KERIKERI 0230 NEW ZEALAND (64) (64) detlefdavies@yahoo.com

27 MUD AND BARBETS A short tour in North Peru The Scarlet-banded Barbet (Capito wallacei) was first discovered in 1996 and formally described in It was found in humid highland forest growing on a ridgetop known as Peak 1538 in the remote Cordillera Azul National Park in south-western Loreto, Peru. While it seems fairly common there, its range is tiny and the total population has been estimated at less than 1000 individuals. Consequently, it is rated as Vulnerable by BirdLife International and IUCN. A strikingly coloured species, its plumage is boldly marked with black, red, yellow and white, remarkable that such a brightly coloured bird could remain undetected for so long. The ridgetop site is only accessible from the town of Pucallpa and it is a long arduous expedition to get there. Read the story at: In 2012 the Scarlet-banded Barbet was discovered at a new site to the west of the ridge near the settlement of Plataforma. Although still remote, the site is accessible by 4WD vehicle from Bellavista, south of Tarapoto. We visited the site in October 2014 with the assistance of a driver and Carlos, the resident guide at Waqanki Reserve near Moyobamba, and succeeded in finding the birds, along with several other notable species. This is a 3 day, 4 night alternative option in our 14 day August 2015 tour, with the following program: Day 1 Leave Tucan Suites, Tarapoto with bird guide by taxi and drive to Bellavista, c.1.5 hours to the south. At Bellavista transfer to a special high-axle 4WD vehicle and travel across the Huallaga river and along the rough 78 km road to Plataforma. Several birding sites on route. Arrive at a rustic lodge where you stay for 2 nights, all meals there. Day 2 All day birding trails above Plataforma. Day 3 Return to Bellavista with birding stops and thence back to Tarapoto. Overnight Tucan Suites. The down-side The up-side IMPORTANT NOTE: this is a tour requiring a sense of adventure and commitment. The road from Bellavista as far as Nuevo Tarapoto (c.38 kms) is rough and muddy. From here onwards it is 40 kms of the thickest, stickiest and deepest mud imaginable. The whole journey, which is mainly uphill can take 10 hours. It can feel like a rough day out at sea and is likely to be interspersed with getting stuck and digging out mud from around the vehicle. The only place to stay at the remote village is very basic, but the bed is comfortable and the food is quite good. The toilet is, well, substandard, to say the least. The trails at the site are also extremely muddy and high gumboots are essential. Those coming on this trip will need to be fit, adventurous, prepare for just about anything and have a good sense of humour, and above all, need to see a Scarlet-banded Barbet to the extent that life would not be worth living without having it on your life list. 27

28 POSSIBLE SPECIES LIST (based on our 2014 visit) Comb Duck Limpkin King Vulture Grey-headed Kite Black Hawk-Eagle Orange-breasted Falcon Pied Lapwing Yellow-billed Tern Large-billed Tern Hoatzin Subtropical Pygmy Owl Wire-crested Thorntail Booted Racket-tail Collared Trogon Golden-collared Toucanet Channel-billed Toucan Versicoloured Barbet Scarlet-banded Barbet Smoky Brown Woodpecker Yellow-vented Woodpecker Wedge-billed Woodcreeper Ocellated Woodcreeper Strong-billed Woodcreeper Streaked Xenops Buff-fronted Foliage-Gleaner Rufous-rumped Foliage-Gleaner Lined Antshrike Dot-winged Antwren Slaty Antwren Yellow-breasted Antwren Plain Antvireo Rufous-breasted Ant-Thrush Red-billed Tyrannulet Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant Slaty-capped Flycatcher Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher Yungas Manakin Blue-rumped Manakin Grey-breasted Wood Wren White-breasted Wood Wren Grey-mantled Wren Pale-eyed Thrush Blue-winged Mountain Tanager Saffron-crowned Tanager Blue-necked Tanager Orange-eared Tanager Golden Tanager Blue-browed Tanager Straw-backed Tanager Bronze-Green Euphonia Buff-throated Saltator Tropical Parula Three-striped Warbler This option has now been included as an alternative end to our 2 week tour commencing on 8 th August. CULTURAL SITES KUELAP an ancient Chachapoya city high above the Utcubamba river between Chachapoyas and Leymebamba. 28

29 LEYMEBAMBA MUSEUM a large collection of ancient mummies locally excavated, particularly from Laguna de los Condores. THE PYRAMIDS OF TUCUME, Lambayeque. 29

30 MAMMALS OF NORTH PERU Western Woolly Opossum (Caluromys lanatus) & Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth (Bradypus variegatus) - Pumarinri Sechuran Fox (Lycalopex sechurae) and White-tailed Deer (Odocoileus virginianus) - Chaparri 30

31 OTHER WILDLIFE OF NORTH PERU Fantastic Poison Frog (Dendrobates fantasticus), Three-striped Poison Dart Frog (Ameerega trivittata), Green-striped Vine Snake (Xenoxybelis argenteus), Coral Snake (Micrurus sp.), Rhyothemis sp. Dragonfly, Amazon Bark Anole (Anolis ortonii), Red Walking Stick Insect, Day Moth sp. 31

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