Temples & Tigers-The Best of Northern India

Transcription

1 Temples & Tigers-The Best of Northern India Naturetrek 1-13 February 2012 Report compiled by Harish Sharma Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0) F: +44 (0) E: W:

2 Temples & Tigers-The Best of Northern India Tour Leader: Harish Sharma Participants: David Hartill Ian Rickword Freda Rickword Day 1 Wednesday 1st February Ian and Freda arrived one day before from Hong Kong. Our representative met them at Indira Gandhi International Airport and transferred to the Hotel Westin Gurgaon for two nights. Day 2 Thursday 2nd February David arrived by flight EK510 Emirates, at Indira Gandhi International Airport and we met in the lobby and drove about 30 minutes to the Hotel Westin for one night.after lunch we left the hotel at 1pm and drove about an hour to Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary. On the way we saw Black Drongo, and Indian Roller perched on the wire. We saw many Red-wattled Lapwings in the fields. In the few hours birding at the sanctuary we saw hundreds of Gadwall, Northern Pintail, Common Teal, Greylag and Bar-headed Goose, Comb Duck, Common Snipe, Wood and Green Sandpiper, Black-necked Stork, Painted Stork, Little and Great Cormorants, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, and Booted Eagle. We saw more than 65 species of the birds. We also saw Rhesus Macaque and Nilgai{Blue Bull}. After a good day, we returned to the hotel at 6:30 pm Day 3 Friday 3rd February We checked out of the hotel at 8am and drove about 25 minutes to the airport to catch our flight to Khajuraho. The flight was on time and we arrived at 1:15 pm at Khajuraho via Varanasi. We drove about 10 minutes to the Hotel Jass Raddison for one night. After checking in we went to our rooms and had lunch at 2 pm. We started our visit to the Khajuraho Temples at 3 pm. The temples were amazing and it took about 3 hours to visit them all. We went to the hotel for about 20 minutes to use the washroom and drove about 10 minutes to the place where Khajuraho festival was going on. We organized this as a special request of the group members. We saw the dances, performed by many different dancers and enjoyed it for about two and a half hours. We had dinner at 9:45 and went to the bed at 10:30 pm. Today we saw some new species of the birds as Coppersmith Barbet, Indian Chat, Asian Koel, Asian Pied Starling and Dusky Crag Martin. Day 4 Saturday 4th February We got a wake up call at 5:30 am and checked out of the hotel at 6 am. We drove about an hour to Panna National Park..As we arrived at the Ken River Lodge and checked in for four nights, we were welcomed by the friendly staff and the manager. We went to our rooms and then had breakfast by the Ken River. We had a fabulous view of the river. We started our first game drive to Panna at 8 am by exclusive open jeep. As we entered the park we saw many beautiful Spotted Deer, Sambhar, Nilgai, and Wild Boar. We saw a large Marsh Crocodile in the river. We returned to the lodge at 10:40 am. Lunch served at 1 pm. Naturetrek May 12 1

3 We started our afternoon game drive at 2:30 pm. We saw Chinkara (Indian Gazelle) and a tree shrew. We did not see any tiger today though. We returned to the lodge at 6:30 pm. We did the checklist at 7pm and had dinner at 7:30pm. When we finished dinner, Ian and David decided to go on the machan (viewing platform) with some other guests at 9 pm. After a few minutes waiting we saw many Golden Jackals, and two Stripped Hyenas came to eat a carcass. We watched them for about half an hour and returned to the rooms at 10pm and went to bed. It was a great end to the day. The birds seen today were Painted Sandgrouse, Tree-pipit, Bay-backed Shrike, Ashy- Crowned Sparrow Lark, Orange-headed and Tickell's Thrush, Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher, Yellow-footed Pigeon, Rufous-tailed Lark, Stork-billed Kingfisher, Black Stork and a Grey Headed Fish Eagle. Day 5 Sunday 5th February We got a wake up call at 5:30 am had tea/coffee, and started our morning game drive at 6:20am. As we entered the park, we saw the mahavat (elephant trainer) and park rangers were tracking the tigers. We heard some alarm calls of deer but did not see a tiger. We returned to the lodge at 10:45am. After half an hour we had a boat ride in Ken River organized by the lodge manager. It was very pleasant and fruitful and we saw many new species of birds. Lunch was served at 1pm and we started our afternoon game drive at 2:30 pm. We saw a few Golden Jackal, many deer, Blue Bull, and heard alarm calls, but did not see a tiger. We returned to the lodge at 6:30 pm. We did the checklist at 7pm, dinner was served at 7:30 and we retired to bed at 9pm. Day 6 Monday 6th February This morning we started our game drive at 6:20am. We drove to the second plateau, a place known as the vulture nesting place. There we saw many Indian Vultures, Eurasian Griffon, Himalayan Griffon and a pair of Peregrine Falcons perched on the cliffs. Our picnic breakfast was eaten here. We returned the lodge at 10:45 am, and had lunch at 1 pm. On the afternoon game drive we heard some alarm calls but did not see a tiger. We were lucky to see a Sloth Bear with its infant for about ten minutes! We returned to the lodge at 6:45 pm after a very fruitful drive. We did the checklist at 7:15, dinner served at 7:45pm and we retired to our beds at 9 pm Day 7 Tuesday 7th February We had a wake up call at 5:30 am, had tea/coffee and left for the park at 6:20am. This morning we saw some fresh pugmarks and heard some alarm calls but did not see any tiger. We kept on driving to the second plateau and suddenly our driver-cum-naturalist Shukra spotted a male Leopard in the dry stream, and he was facing towards us! Very slowly he turned back for few steps and stopped, standing like a statue for a few minutes and again he turned back towards us and started crossing the dry stream and disappeared into the woods. It was an unforgettable sighting! After this we drove about 100 meters and saw a White-eyed Buzzard had caught a Saw-scaled Viper and flew to a tree and later started eating it. The buzzard saw a Short-toed Eagle coming towards him, he dropped the snake into the bushes and flew away. Our picnic breakfasts were eaten at the vultures nesting place. We enjoyed our final game drive in Panna National Park and returned to the lodge at 10:45 am. We had a shower and packed our luggage before lunch at 12pm. We checked out and drove for five hours to Orchha and checked in at the riverside Orchha Resort for one night. We did the checklist at 7 pm, dinner was served at 7:30pm and we retired to bed at 8:45 pm. 2 Naturetrek May 12

4 Day 8 Wednesday 8th February Breakfast was served at 7 am. We started our sightseeing of the palaces, temples, chatris, and the city at 8am. We saw many temples along the Betva River. We returned to the hotel at 11:45 and checked out. Lunch was served at 1pm. We drove about 45 minutes from Orchha to Jhansi railway station to catch our train to Agra. The train was on time and it departed at 1755 hours. We arrived at 0825 hours in Agra. We were transferred to the Hotel Raj Mahal Palace for one night. We had dinner at 9 pm and went to visit The Taj Mahal in full moon light (this extra visit was a special request of the guests). We returned to the hotel at 11:30pm and retired to bed. Day 9 Thursday 9th February We had a wake up call at 6am and went to visit the Taj Mahal again, at sunrise. It was a bit hazy behind the Taj at the Yamuna River. The birds seen at the river were Ruddy Shelduck, Ruff, Sandpipers, Black Kites and Egyptian Vultures. We returned to the hotel at 9:30am and had breakfast. We checked out at 10:30am and made our way to see the Agra Fort. It was an impressive fort. We had lunch at a restaurant at 1 pm. After lunch we visited the Baby Taj and drove for about an hour to Fathepur Sikri, another great monument. After half an hours visit, we drove to Bharatpur for about 30 minutes. We checked in at Hotel Laxmi Vilas Palace, a lovely heritage building, for 3 nights. We did the checklist at 7, dinner was at 7:30 and we retired to bed at 9pm. Day10 Friday 10th February Breakfast served at 7am. We left for the Keoladeo National Park at 7:30am and it took about 10 minutes to reach the park gate by car. We went on a trek and saw and heard many species of birds in a few hours. Golden Jackal, Spotted Deer, and Blue Bull were seen commonly in the park. We returned to the hotel at 12:15 and lunch was served at 1pm. In the afternoon we had cycle-rickshaws to go to a wetland area which was full of waterfowl. We saw a pair of Sarus Cranes, Eurasian Marsh Harrier, Booted Eagle, Bronzed Winged Jacana, Bluethroat, Glossy Ibis etc. We returned to the hotel at 6:30 pm, did the checklist at 7, dinner was served at 7:30pm and we retired to our beds at 9pm. Day 11 Saturday 11th February After breakfast at 7am, we left for the park. This morning we went to the nursery area and saw Dusky Eagle Owl, Olive-Backed Pipit, Brown Headed and Copper Smith Barbet, Red Avadavat, Greater Painted Snipe etc. We returned to the hotel at 12:30pmand had lunch at 1 pm. We started our afternoon outing at 3 pm. We were in the wetland area and saw many species of the birds such as Imperial Eagle, Indian and Greater Spotted Eagle, and Common Teal. We returned to the hotel at 6:30pm, did the checklist, had dinner, and retired to bed at 9 pm. Day 12 Sunday 12th February We had breakfast at 7am and left for the park at 8am. This morning Ian and Freda stayed at the hotel and transferred to the Bharatpur railway station at 10am to catch the train for Sawai Madhopur for their extension to the tour. David came with me to the park and saw many species of birds. We returned the hotel at 11:30 and checked out. Naturetrek May 12 3

5 Lunch was served at 1 pm and we transferred to the Bharatpur railway station to catch our train to Delhi at 3pm. The train was on time and we arrived in Delhi at 6:40pm and we transferred to the Hotel Westin. I said goodbye to David and he was transferred at midnight to Indira Gandhi International Airport by our representative to catch the flight to home Receive our e-newsletter Join the Naturetrek ing list and be the first to hear about new tours, additional departures and new dates, tour reports and special offers. Visit to sign up. Naturetrek Facebook We are delighted to launch the Naturetrek Facebook page so that participants of Naturetrek tours can remain in touch after the holiday and share photos, comments and future travel plans. Setting up a personal profile at is quick, free and easy. The Naturetrek Facebook page is now live; do please pay us a visit! 4 Naturetrek May 12

6 Species List Birds ( = recorded but not counted) February Common name Scientific name Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis 2 Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo 3 Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger 4 Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster 5 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 6 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea 7 Great Egret Ardea alba 8 Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia 9 Little Egret Egretta garzetta 10 Indian Pond-heron Ardeola grayii 11 Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 12 Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala 13 Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans 14 Black Stork Ciconia nigra 15 Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus 16 Black-necked Stork Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus 17 Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus 18 Red-naped Ibis Pseudibis papillosa 19 Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus 20 Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia 21 Lesser Whistling-duck Dendrocygna javanica 22 Greylag Goose Anser anser 23 Bar-headed Goose Anser indicus 24 Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea 25 Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos 26 Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope 27 Gadwall Anas strepera 28 Common Teal Anas crecca 29 Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha 30 Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata 31 Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina 32 Common Pochard Aythya ferina 33 Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca 34 Oriental Honey-buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus 35 Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus 36 Black Kite Milvus migrans 37 Grey-headed Fish-eagle Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus 38 Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus 39 Long-billed Vulture Gyps indicus 40 Eurasian Griffon Gyps fulvus 41 Himalayan Griffon Gyps Himalayensis 42 Red-headed Vulture Sarcogyps calvus 43 Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus 44 Crested Serpent-eagle Spilornis cheela 45 Eurasian Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus 46 Shikra Accipiter badius 47 Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus Naturetrek May 12 5

7 February Common name Scientific name White-eyed Buzzard Butastur teesa 49 Indian Spotted Eagle Aquila hastata 50 Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga 51 Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis 52 Bonelli's Eagle Aquila fasciatus 53 Booted Eagle Aquila pennatus 54 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus 55 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus 56 Painted Francolin Francolinus pictus 57 Grey Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus 58 Painted Spurfowl Galloperdix spadicea 59 Jungle Bush-quail Perdicula asiatica 60 Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus 61 Sarus Crane Grus antigone 62 Brown Crake Amaurornis akool 63 White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus 64 Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio 65 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus 66 Common Coot Fulica atra 67 Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus 68 Greater Painted-snipe Rostratula benghalensis 69 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus 70 Great Thick-knee Burhinus recurvirostris 71 River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii 72 Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus 73 Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus 74 White-tailed Lapwing Vanellus leucurus 75 Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago 76 Common Redshank Tringa totanus 77 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia 78 Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus 79 Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola 80 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 81 Ruff Philomachus pugnax 82 Painted Sandgrouse Pterocles indicus 83 Rock Dove Columba livia 84 Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis 85 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto 86 Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis 87 Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis 88 Yellow-footed Pigeon Treron phoenicoptera 89 Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria 90 Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri 91 Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala 92 Common Hawk-cuckoo Cuculus varius 93 Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopacea 94 Sirkeer Malkoha Phaenicophaeus leschenaultii 95 Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis 96 Euration Eagle Owl Bubo bubo 97 Dusky Eagle owl Bubo Coromandus 98 Indian Scops-owl Otus bakkamoena 6 Naturetrek May 12

8 February Common name Scientific name Brown Fish-owl Ketupa zeylonensis 100 Spotted Owlet Athene brama 101 Savannah Nightjar Caprimulgus affinis 102 Little Swift Apus affinis 103 Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata 104 Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis 105 Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis 106 White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis 107 Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis 108 Blue-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis athertoni 109 Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis 110 Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis 111 Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops 112 Indian Grey Hornbill Ocyceros birostris 113 Brown-headed Barbet Megalaima zeylanica 114 Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala 115 Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla 116 Yellow-crowned Woodpecker Dendrocopos mahrattensis 117 Black-rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalense 118 Indian Lark Mirafra erythroptera 119 Ashy-crowned Sparrow-lark Eremopterix grisea 120 Plain Martin Riparia paludicola 121 Dusky Crag-martin Ptyonoprogne concolor 122 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica 123 Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii 124 Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica 125 White Wagtail Motacilla alba 126 White-browed Wagtail Motacilla madaraspatensis 127 Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola 128 Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava 129 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea 130 Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris 131 Long-billed Pipit Anthus similis 132 Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis 133 Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni 134 Large Cuckoo-shrike Coracina macei 135 Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus 136 Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus 137 White-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus leucotis 138 Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer 139 Common Iora Aegithina tiphia 140 Blue Rock-thrush Monticola solitarius 141 Orange-headed Thrush Zoothera citrina 142 Tickell's Thrush Turdus unicolor 143 Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii 144 Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis 145 Plain Prinia Prinia inornata 146 Paddyfield Warbler Acrocephalus agricola 147 Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius 148 Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita 149 Smoky Warbler Phylloscopus fuligiventer Naturetrek May 12 7

9 February Common name Scientific name Sulphur-bellied Warbler Phylloscopus griseolus 151 Hume's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus humei 152 Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides 153 Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca 154 Red-breasted Flycatcher Ficedula parva 155 Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassina 156 Tickell's Blue-flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae 157 Grey-headed Canaryflycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis 158 Bluethroat Luscinia svecica 159 Oriental Magpie-robin Copsychus saularis 160 Indian Robin Saxicoloides fulicata 161 Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros 162 Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata 163 Common Stonechat SaxicolaTorquata 164 Indian Chat Cercomela fusca 165 White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola 166 Yellow-eyed Babbler Chrysomma sinense 167 Common Babbler Turdoides caudatus 168 Large Grey Babbler Turdoides malcolmi 169 Jungle Babbler Turdoides striatus 170 Brown-cheeked Fulvetta Alcippe poioicephala 171 Great Tit Parus major 172 Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus 173 Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus 174 Eurasian Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus 175 Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus 176 Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus 177 Bay-backed Shrike Lanius vittatus 178 Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach 179 Common Woodshrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus 180 Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus 181 White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens 182 Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda 183 House Crow Corvus splendens 184 Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos 185 Bank Myna Acridotheres ginginianus 186 Common Myna Acridotheres tristis 187 Asian Pied Starling Gracupica contra 188 Brahminy Starling Temenuchus pagodarum 189 House Sparrow Passer domesticus 190 Chestnut-shouldered Petronia Petronia xanthocollis 191 Red Avadavat Amandava amandava 192 Nutmeg Mannikin Lonchura punctulata 193 White Capped Bunting Emberiza stewarti Mammals 1 Leopard Panthera pardus 2 Rhesus Macaque Macaca mulatta 3 Common Langur Presbytis entellus 8 Naturetrek May 12

10 February Common name Scientific name Indian Small Mongoose Herpestes auropunctatus 5 Golden Jackal Canis aureus 6 Sloth Bear Merursus ursinus 7 Indian Tree Shrew Anathana ellioti 8 Indian or Black-naped Hare Lepus nigricollis 9 Five-striped Palm Squirrel Funambulus pennanti 10 Sambar Cervus unicolor 11 Barasingha (Swamp Deer) Cervus duvauceli branderi 12 Chincara (Indian Gazelle) Gazella bennetti 13 Nilgai (Blue Bull) Boselaphus tragocamelus 14 Indian Wild Boar Sus scrofa Other fauna 1 Indian Flapshell Turtle Lissemys punctata 2 Marsh Mugger Crocodile Crocodylus palustris 3 House Gecko species Hemidactylus or Gehyra etc sp Naturetrek May 12 9