Naturetrek Tour Report 9-25 February 2018

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1 with Chambal & Bharatpur Extension Naturetrek Royal Bengal Tiger Royal Bengal Tiger Peacock Display Dhole (Asiatic Wild Dog) Report & images compiled by Yusuf Rizvi Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0) E: W:

2 Tour participants: Yusuf Rizvi & Rachit Singh (leaders) with 11 Naturetrek clients Introduction This report commences with the Just Tigers! Tour, which ran from 9th to 21st with 11 members and was led by Yusuf and Rachit, Four group members then stayed on for the Chambal and Bharatpur Extension, which continued till 25th and was led by Yusuf. Day 1 Friday 9th In flight to India The tour started with an overnight flight from the UK to India Day 2 Saturday 10th Delhi - Sultanpur The flight landed on time at Indira Gandhi International Airport, Delhi, where Yusuf and Rachit met the group. We then had a ten-minute drive to our hotel, the Holiday Inn. After checking in, everybody went to their rooms to freshen-up and then we met again at 2.30pm to go to Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary. After an hour s drive we reached Sultanpur and saw lots of good birds and ducks including egrets, herons, Painted Stork, Asian Openbill, Black-necked Stork, Glossy and Black-headed Ibises, Eurasian Wigeon and Common Pochard. Our raptor sightings included Eastern Imperial Eagle. Back at the hotel we had a briefing about next day s programme. Day 3 Sunday 11th Delhi overnight train We left the hotel about 10am for a sightseeing tour around Delhi, which included the Qutub Minar, Humayun's tomb and Lutyen s Delhi. We saw quite a few interesting birds around Delhi including a good view of Brown-headed Barbet, Grey Hornbill, Black Kite, Rose-ringed Parakeet and Black-winged Stilt. After lunch we went to the train station to catch our overnight train to Jabalpur. Once on the train we settled in for the journey. Naturetrek 2

3 Day 4 Monday 12th Jabalpur to Kanha National Park After a good night s sleep and fun on the train, we reached Jabalpur around 8:30am and went straight to a hotel for breakfast and to freshen-up. The weather was cloudy and we had rain. After breakfast we started our drive to Kanha, arriving at lunchtime and enjoying a good lunch. Later we went to the park for our first drive. Today we were in the Kisli zone with its lush green forest and we saw quite a few birds. Sue was quite keen to see a Sloth Bear. As we were driving to check one of the areas, we spotted a male Sloth Bear in the meadow. It was coming towards us and as we waited eagerly, it finally came quite close to the track. Everyone was happy to get a good view. Later we were all excited to see a Tigress crossing the road. Back at the lodge we met later for the checklist and drinks, followed by dinner. Day 5 Tuesday 13th Kanha National Park The morning was a bit cloudy with a few showers. We saw quite a few interesting birds including Indian Cormorant in flight, Black Stork, Woolly-necked Stork, Jungle Owlet, Changeable Hawk-Eagle, Brown Fish Owl, Lesser Whistling Duck, and Red- and Yellow-Wattled Lapwings. We also saw quite a few mammals including Gaur, Sambar, Swamp Deer and Jackal. Our afternoon drive was similar and included sightings of Indian and White-rumped Vultures. We also heard a Tiger growling, but didn t see the striped cat. In the evening we met for the checklist which was followed by dinner. Day 6 Wednesday 14th Kanha National Park After a refreshing cup of tea and coffee, we were ready to explore the park. It was bit cloudy but we saw quite a few birds and mammals. In the afternoon, after lunch, we met for a birding cum village walk. We saw quite a few birds on the walk including Chestnut-tailed and Brahminy Starlings, Red-naped Ibis and House Sparrow. Everyone was happy to see the local vegetable market, and Paul was especially happy to see the fish market as he had a keen interest in fishing. In the evening we met for checklist, which was followed by a delicious dinner. Naturetrek 3

4 Day 7 Thursday 15th Kanha National Park The morning was a bit cold as we gathered in the guest area for tea and coffee before leaving for our game drive. It was a long drive to the Mukki zone and on the way we came across a few Tiger tracks, probably from last night. As we were close to the Mukki zone we heard a few distress calls and a Tiger growl deep inside the thickets. We also saw quite a few interesting birds including a Brown Fish Owl. On the way back to the gate we heard another Tiger s growl and also Barking Deer distress calls. In the evening we reached a spot where people in a few vehicles had glimpsed a Tiger going into the thickets near a hillock. We decided to wait as there was a fair chance that the Tiger might come out into the open. We saw some interesting birds and waited for a long time, but the Tiger remained elusive. Once back at the hotel, we called it a night after checklist and dinner. Day 8 Friday 16th Kanha National Park Today we went to the Mukki zone again. We drove straight there and as we reached the Mukki zone we got the news that two transient Tigers had been sighted behind the Sonder camp. We drove to the spot and heard a couple of distress calls in the distance. After waiting for almost 30 minutes we decided to check the other side of the forested patch on a parallel road. As we were driving, we saw a Tigress coming out of the thicket onto the track. She was the sibling of the two tigers we were expecting to see. She walked gracefully towards our vehicle. We had to reverse the jeeps and she kept coming towards us, scent-marking her new found territory! She was a young Tigress, approximately three years of age. After a while she disappeared into the woods. On the way back from Mukki we got lucky with the sighting of two Asiatic Wild Dogs (or Dholes) sitting on the road. It was a great morning seeing two apex predators on one drive. We also saw quite a few birds in the morning as well as in the afternoon drives. In the evening we did the checklist and everyone celebrated the day with drinks and showing their photographs. Day 9 Saturday 17th Kanha National Park Everyone was excited after our previous day s sighting and was keen to spot some more Tigers. After a cup of coffee, we set out for another drive in the park. Today we were again in the Mukki zone. We saw quite a few interesting birds and mammals, and at a few places we heard distress calls. We waited for a long time near a waterhole as there were a few distress calls and, as per our anticipation, the Tigress with her sub-adults were Naturetrek 4

5 also around the same area. In the afternoon we also saw a few birds, and in the evening we did the checklist followed by dinner. Day 10 Sunday 18th Kanha National Park The morning was a bit cold. After entering the gate and driving in the park for about five minutes, group members in one of our jeeps saw the Tiger known as T2 near the road. He disappeared as quickly as he had appeared. After waiting for a while we continued on, seeing quite a few birds and mammals and hearing a few distress calls. In the afternoon we went to the Kisli zone. We were watching Sambar when suddenly we heard the distress calls of Sambar and Spotted Deer a little further away. We quickly reached the spot and heard a Tiger s growl. We all got excited as the distress calls became fanatic. After a while we heard calls further away. Anticipating the movement of the Tiger, we decided to intercept him towards the other side. We drove to a spot where we expected the Tiger to come out. Upon reaching the spot there were no distress calls, but within a few minutes the calls started. Slowly the calls started to come closer but then stopped. We decided to check a little further as there was another crossing point. As soon as we moved, Paul shouted Tiger : he was in the bamboo thicket close to the track. The Tiger came out into the open and walked across the road, then went towards the stream and, in a leap, crossed it. At the other side of the stream we could only partially see him. He came close to the stream and stared; sniffing something in the foliage. We realised he was sniffing the carcass of a Gaur, which must have been more than a week old. He pulled the carcass a bit then started feeding on it. He was partially hidden in the bamboo thicket but it was a mesmerizing experience to watch the Tiger s feeding behaviour. By now it was close to the park closing time so we left the Tiger with his dinner. Back at the lodge we did the checklist followed by celebrating yet another good sighting. Day 11 Monday 19th Kanha - overnight train to Agra This morning was our last drive and we saw quite a few interesting birds and mammals. Today s drive was an hour shorter than normal and we returned to the lodge for breakfast. Then, with a packed lunch and dinner, we drove to Jabalpur to catch our overnight train to Agra. Main Tour Day 12/ Extension Day 1 Tuesday 20th Arrive Agra; visit Taj Mahal; Extension group to Chambal We left the train at Agra and got into our coach to go to our hotel in Agra, where we had breakfast. After freshening-up, we left the hotel for a sightseeing tour of the Baby Taj and Agra Fort before lunch. After Naturetrek 5

6 lunch we visited the Taj Mahal. From the rear of the tomb we saw River Lapwing, Ruff, Bar-headed Goose, Temminck s Stint and other birds. It was then time for the group to split, with those returning to the UK to finish the main tour going to a hotel in Aero City, New Delhi where they had dinner. Meanwhile the Extension group stayed at the Taj Mahal for sunset and then drove to Chambal, where we checked into our lodge. Later we went for a night walk at the property to look for nocturnal creatures like civets and owls. Main Tour Day 13/ Extension Day 2 Wednesday 21st Return flight to the UK: Chambal to Bharatpur Group members completing the Main Tour caught a flight back to the UK, where the Main Tour came to an end. Meanwhile, those on the Extension set off at 5.30am for the Chambal River safari. We boarded our boat and saw Garial and Crocodile, and were so lucky to see Gangetic River Dolphin and the critically endangered Redcrowned Roofed Turtle. We also saw Greater Short-toed Lark, Skylark, Crested Lark, Ashy-crowned Sparrow- Lark, Red-crested Pochard, Long-legged Buzzard, Egyptian Vulture and other lovely birds. We had hot tea and coffee on the boat. We returned for lunch before driving to Bharatpur, where we checked into our hotel, The Birder's Inn. Later we met for the checklist, followed by dinner. Extension Day 3 Thursday 22nd Bharatpur Today was an amazing day of birding as we went to the park for the whole day with a packed lunch. We saw lots of birds including Sarus Crane, Northern Pintail, Bar-headed Goose, Ruddy Shelduck, Knob-billed Duck, Eastern Imperial Eagle, Greater Spotted Eagle, Tawny Eagle, Black Bittern and Bluethroat, to name a few. In the evening we did the checklist, which was followed by dinner. Extension Day 4 Friday 23rd Bharatpur Today we went to the park twice and had lunch at our hotel. We saw quite a few birds including Greater Spotted Eagle, Egyptian Vulture, Indian Spotted Eagle, Sarus Crane, Northern Shoveler and Dusky Eagle- Naturetrek 6

7 Owl, to name a few. In the evening we met to do the checklist, followed by dinner. Extension Day 5 Saturday 24th Bharatpur to Delhi This morning was our last birding in the park. We saw some very good birds before returning for lunch. We then went to the train station to catch our train to Delhi. We reached Delhi in the late evening. It then took us about an hour to reach our hotel, the Holiday Inn, where we checked in for a clean and change room. Finally we said our thanks and goodbyes to Yusuf. Extension Day 6 Sunday 25th Return to the UK In the early hours we boarded our flight back to the UK, where another Naturetrek adventure came to an end. Royal Bengal Tiger Naturetrek 7

8 Species Lists ( = recorded but not counted; some previous/alternative names in brackets) Birds 1 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis 2 Indian Cormorant Phalacrocorax fuscicollis 3 Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo 4 Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger 5 Black Bittern Dupetor flavicollis 6 Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster 7 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 8 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea 9 Great Egret Ardea alba 10 Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia 11 Little Egret Egretta garzetta 12 Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii 13 Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus 14 Striated Heron Butorides striata 15 Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax 16 Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala 17 Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans 18 Black Stork Ciconia nigra 19 Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus 20 Black-necked Stork Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus 21 Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus 22 Red-naped Ibis Pseudibis papillosa 23 Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus 24 Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia 25 Lesser Whistling Duck Dendrocygna javanica 26 Greylag Goose Anser anser 27 Bar-headed Goose Anser indicus 28 Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea 29 Knob-billed (Comb) Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos Naturetrek 8

9 30 Cotton Pygmy Goose Nettapus coromandelianus 31 Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope 32 Gadwall Anas strepera 33 Eurasian Teal Anas crecca 34 Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha 35 Northern Pintail Anas acuta 36 Garganey Anas querquedula 37 Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata 38 Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina 39 Common Pochard Aythya ferina 40 Western Osprey Pandion haliaetus 41 Crested (Oriental) Honey Buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus 42 Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus 43 Black Kite Milvus migrans 44 Grey-headed Fish Eagle Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus 45 Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus 46 White-rumped Vulture Gyps bengalensis 47 Indian Vulture Gyps indicus 48 Red-headed Vulture Sarcogyps calvus 49 Short-toed Snake Eagle Circaetus gallicus 50 Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela 51 Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus 52 Shikra Accipiter badius 53 White-eyed Buzzard Butastur teesa 54 Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus 55 Indian Spotted Eagle Aquila hastata 56 Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga 57 Bonelli's Eagle Aquila fasciatus 58 Changeable (Crested) Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus cirrhatus 59 Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax 60 Eastern Imperial Eagle Aquila Heliaca 61 Merlin Falco columbarius 62 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Naturetrek 9

10 63 Grey Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus 64 Jungle Bush Quail Perdicula asiatica 65 Red Spurfowl Galloperdix spadicea 66 Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus 67 Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus 68 Sarus Crane Grus antigone 69 White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus 70 Grey-headed(Purple) Swamphen Porphyrio poliocephalus 71 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus 72 Eurasian Coot Fulica atra 73 Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus 74 Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus 75 Greater Painted-Snipe Rostratula benghalensis 76 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus 77 Eurasian Stone-curlew (Thick-knee) Burhinus oedicnemus 78 Great Stone-curlew (Thick-knee) Esacus recurvirostris 79 Small Pratincole Glareola lactea 80 River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii 81 Sociable lapwing Vanellus Gregarius 82 Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus 83 Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus 84 White-tailed Lapwing Vanellus leucurus 85 Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus 86 Pin-tailed Snipe Gallinago stenura 87 Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago 88 Common Redshank Tringa totanus 89 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia 90 Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus 91 Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola 92 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 93 Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii 94 Ruff Philomachus pugnax 95 Pallas's Gull Larus ichthyaetus Naturetrek 10

11 96 Brown-headed Gull Larus brunnicephalus 97 River Tern Sterna aurantia 98 Little Tern Sterna albifrons 99 Black-bellied Tern Sterna acuticauda 100 Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida 101 Rock Dove (Common Pigeon) Columba livia 102 Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis 103 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto 104 Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis 105 Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis 106 Yellow-footed Green Pigeon Treron phoenicoptera 107 Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria 108 Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri 109 Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala 110 Common Hawk-Cuckoo Cuculus varius 111 Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopacea 112 Sirkeer Malkoha Phaenicophaeus leschenaultii 113 Southern Coucal Centropus {sinensis } parroti 114 Dusky Eagle-Owl Bubo coromandus 115 Indian Scops Owl Otus bakkamoena 116 Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis 117 Jungle Owlet Glaucidium radiatum 118 Spotted Owlet Athene brama 119 White-rumped Spinetail Zoonavena sylvatica 120 Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis 121 Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba 122 Little Swift Apus affinis 123 Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata 124 Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis 125 White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis 126 Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis 127 Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis 128 Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis Naturetrek 11

12 129 Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops 130 Indian Grey Hornbill Ocyceros birostris 131 Malabar Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros coronatus 132 Brown-headed Barbet Megalaima zeylanica 133 Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala 134 Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopos moluccensis nanus 135 Yellow-crowned Woodpecker Dendrocopos mahrattensis 136 Rufous Woodpecker Celeus brachyurus 137 Streak-throated Woodpecker Picus xanthopygaeus 138 Lesser Goldenback Dinopium benghalense 139 White-naped Woodpecker Chrysocolaptes festivus 140 Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix grisea 141 Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla 142 Crested Lark Galerida cristata 143 Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula 144 Sand Martin Riparia riparia 145 Dusky Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne concolor 146 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica 147 Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii 148 Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica 149 Streak-throated Swallow Petrochelidon fluvicola 150 White Wagtail Motacilla alba 151 White-browed Wagtail Motacilla madaraspatensis 152 Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola 153 Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava 154 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea 155 Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus 156 Richard's Pipit Anthus richardi 157 Large Cuckooshrike Coracina macei 158 Black-winged Cuckooshrike Coracina melaschistos 159 Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus 160 Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus 161 Orange (Scarlet) Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus Naturetrek 12

13 162 White-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus leucotis 163 Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer 164 Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons 165 Common Iora Aegithina tiphia 166 Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius 167 Orange-headed Thrush Zoothera citrina 168 Scaly Thrush Zoothera dauma 169 Tickell's Thrush Turdus unicolor 170 Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis 171 Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii 172 Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis 173 Plain Prinia Prinia inornata 174 Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius 175 Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita 176 Sulphur-bellied Warbler Phylloscopus griseolus 177 Hume's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus humei 178 Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides 179 Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca 180 Asian Brown Flycatcher Muscicapa dauurica 181 Red-breasted Flycatcher Ficedula parva 182 Taiga Flycatcher Ficedula albicilla 183 Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassina 184 Tickell's Blue Flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae 185 Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis 186 Bluethroat Luscinia svecica 187 Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis 188 White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus 189 Indian Robin Saxicoloides fulicata 190 Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros 191 Pied Bush Chat Saxicola caprata 192 Indian Chat Cercomela fusca 193 Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maurus 194 Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea Naturetrek 13

14 195 Indian (Asian) Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi 196 Puff-throated Babbler Pellorneum ruficeps 197 Yellow-eyed Babbler Chrysomma sinense 198 Common Babbler Turdoides caudatus 199 Large Grey Babbler Turdoides malcolmi 200 Jungle Babbler Turdoides striatus 201 Brown-cheeked Fulvetta Alcippe poioicephala 202 Great Tit Parus major 203 Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus 204 Thick-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum agile 205 Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus 206 Eurasian Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus 207 Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus 208 Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus 209 Bay-backed Shrike Lanius vittatus 210 Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach 211 Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus 212 Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus 213 White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens 214 Spangled Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus 215 Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus 216 Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda 217 House Crow Corvus splendens 218 Indian Jungle Crow Corvus {macrorhynchos}culminatus 219 Bank Myna Acridotheres ginginianus 220 Common Myna Acridotheres tristis 221 Asian Pied Starling Gracupica contra 222 Chestnut-tailed Starling Sturnia malabarica 223 Brahminy Starling Temenuchus pagodarum 224 House Sparrow Passer domesticus 225 Chestnut-shouldered Petronia Petronia xanthocollis 226 Red Avadavat Amandava amandava 227 White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata Naturetrek 14

15 228 Nutmeg Mannikin Lonchura punctulata 229 Indian Silverbill Euodice malabarica Mammals 1 Royal Bengal Tiger Panthera tigris tigris 2 Rhesus Macaque Macaca mulatta 3 Common Langur Presbytis entellus 4 Indian Small Mongoose Herpestes auropunctatus 5 Golden Jackal Canis aureus 6 Dhole (Asiatic Wild Dog) Cuon alpinus dukhunensis 7 Sloth Bear Merursus ursinus 8 Indian Flying Fox Pteropus giganteus 9 Three-striped Palm Squirrel Funambulus pennarum 10 Five-striped Palm Squirrel Funambulus pennanti 11 Sambar Cervus unicolor 12 Barasingha (Swamp Deer) Cervus duvauceli branderi 13 Chital (Spotted Deer) Cervus axis 14 Indian Muntjac (Barking Deer) Muntiacus muntjak 15 Blackbuck Antilope cervicapra 16 Nilgai (Blue Bull) Boselaphus tragocamelus 17 Gaur Bos gaurus 18 Indian Wild boar Sus scrofa Others 1 Indian Flapshell Turtle Lissemys punctata 2 Unnamed Lizard Varanus griseus koniecznyi 3 Indian Rock Python Python molurus 4 Gharial Gavialis gangeticus 5 Gangetic River Dolphin Platanista gangetica 6 Marsh Mugger Crocodile Crocodylus palustris 7 Common Garden Lizard Calotes versicolor 8 House Gecko species Hemidactylus/Gehyra sp Naturetrek 15

16 9 Jumping Spider Stenaelurillus sp. 10 Indian Bullfrog Hoplobatrachus tigrinus 11 Lemon Pansy Junonia lemonias 12 Peacock Pansy Junonia almana 13 Common Wolf Snake Lycodon aulicus 14 Red-crowned Roofed Turtle Batagur kachuga 15 Northern River Terrapin Batagur baska 16 Checkered Keelback Xenochrophis piscator Barasingha (Swamp Deer) Naturetrek 16

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