Temples and Tigers - The Best of Northern India

Transcription

1 Temples and Tigers - The Best of Northern India Naturetrek Khajuraho Temples Baby Taj - Agra Orchha Tiger - Ranthambore Report and images compiled by Bharat Mandhyan Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0) F: +44 (0) E: info@naturetrek.co.uk W:

2 Temples and Tigers - The Best of Northern India Tour leader: Bharat Mandhyan (Bunty) Tour participants: Leslie Davis Rosemary Davis Jonathan Chant Susan Chant Weather Night temperatures were low so that early morning and evening game drives in open-topped vehicles required warm clothes, though blankets were provided. Midday temperatures were pleasantly warm and it was generally very sunny though some mornings were briefly quite misty and it rained couple of time in the morning. Day 1 Wednesday 6th Travel from the UK Day 2 Thursday 7th Delhi Warm, sunny afternoon, cool evening Tour leaders met the group at Indira Gandhi International Airport, Delhi, and drove for half an hour to the Hotel Westin. After a quick lunch we drove off through the mesmerising traffic for an hour and half to Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary. Birding at the reservoir for three hours proved very fruitful. We had a chance to get familiar with the common birds of the northern Indian wetlands. Some of the highlights were Cormorants, Grey and Purple Heron, Painted Stork and Greylag Goose. We also saw various waterfowl, including the endemic Indian Spot-billed Duck. Various Sandpipers were seen feeding in the reservoir. White-throated Kingfishers and Ashy Prinias were also found. Five-striped Palm Squirrels were seen in good numbers. The highlight was the Jungle Cat enjoying the sun at the mud mound in the distance before disappearing in the reeds. Over-night stay at the Westin. Day 3 Friday 8th Khajuraho After breakfast, we set off to Delhi s domestic airport and a flight to Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh. The flight, via Varanasi and Agra was a little delayed, and we disembarked into central India s small city called Khajuraho at just after 6 pm. There was time to settle into the very pleasant Jass Radisson Hotel. Overnight at Jass Radisson. Naturetrek April 13 1

3 Day 4 Saturday 9th Panna Sunny and pleasant A 35 minute drive took us to the Ken River Lodges on the outskirts of Panna National Park. After a quick cup of tea/coffee we went exploring the park on our first morning drive. This brought a good selection of birds including, Indian Bushlark, Common Ioras, and several Crested Serpent Eagles. We saw fresh pug marks of a male Tiger cub and also heard the tiger trackers mention that he was around but we didn t see him. After lunch we embarked on another jeep safari into the National Park. Everyone managed good views of the various common mammals present: Nilgai, Chital and Sambar; and Chinkara, Birdlife was also notable with Grey-headed Fish Eagle particularly pleasing but also included several White-eyed Buzzards and Paddyfield Pipits amongst others. Day 5 Sunday 10th Panna Cool morning, warm & sunny for the rest of the day We gathered in darkness for hot drinks and biscuits in the courtyard of the Ken River Lodges before setting off on a four hour game drive in the park. After seeing some jeeps waiting at a spot, and hearing alarm calls of Langur and Chital, we soon heard the sawing call of a Leopard, and to our relief after waiting and going up and down the road we managed to see the Leopard crossing the road before disappearing into a thicket. The undoubted highlight was the Leopard but we also enjoyed a varied and bird-filled afternoon, and a few Wild Boar and the usual deer and antelopes made the drive enjoyable. Day 6 Monday 11th Panna after an early mist Today significant cloud had rolled in from the north and the air was moist and cool. Consequently the park looked completely different, being shrouded in mist. Familiar roadside species like Chital and Sambar suddenly took on a more ethereal dimension as they faded in and out of sight in the rolling mist. We gathered for breakfast on a plateau opposite to where we had breakfast yesterday - the gorge below us was amazing with all the Griffon and Long-billed Vultures sitting on one of the flat cliff tables, and we had some new birds for the list like the Common Crane along with the Sarus Crane. We had a lunch break from 11am to 2.30pm when the park was closed, and went on a boat ride offered at the lodge. The afternoon drive remained very quiet. Day 7 Tuesday 12th Panna to Orchha 2 Naturetrek April 13

4 Our final game drive at Panna was not to be because of the heavy thunder storm and rain, so after breakfast we said our goodbyes to the staff at the Ken River Lodges and boarded our bus for the six hour drive to Orchha. We stopped at Khajuraho to see these magnificent group of temples built by the mighty Chandela rulers, famous for their erotic sculptures. Rather bumpy roads during the early stages of the journey soon gave way to a better surface and we made good time and had a little daylight left to enjoy the surroundings on our arrival at the lovely Orchha Resort. Day 8 Wednesday 13th Orchha Drizzling with some sunny spells After breakfast we set off on a guided walk of the town and some of its major architectural features. First stop was at the nearby Raj Mahal Palace and then the nearby Jehangir Mahal. We had a brief visit to a nearby temple and then a stroll through the pleasant and authentic town market. Lunch at the hotel was followed by a period of rest and relaxation, though some took the opportunity to go birding near the hotel again. At we set off for nearby Jhansi were we were to catch the Shatabdi Express to Agra. We reached Agra more or less at the right time and we transferred to our hotel for the night. Day 9 Thursday 14th Agra An early start saw us on our way to the Taj Mahal for a sunrise view. We had a full guided tour inside and around the grounds. We made our way back to the hotel for breakfast and after breakfast we were on our way to the Baby Taj and then the Red Fort. We had time for a little shopping before getting back for lunch. Following lunch we set off on the short drive to the spectacular abandoned city of Fatehpur Sikri. After an hour or so we set off again and just before darkness we arrived at the Laxmi Vilas Palace at Bharatpur for a three night stay. Day 10 Friday 15th Bharatpur Bright, sunny and warm After an early breakfast, we did a full day excursion into the park - we went to the Shanti Kutir close to the barrier inside Keoladeo National Park for the morning session of birding. Among other interesting birds found here were: Spotted Owlet, Black-rumped Flameback, Black Drongo, Brahminy Starling, Red-Throated Flycatcher, Magpie Robin, Black Redstart, and Olive-backed Pipit. After lunch at Sapanmori area, various new and interesting species were encountered here and these included Black-necked Stork, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Black-shouldered Kite, Indian Spotted Eagle, Spotted Redshank, Marsh Sandpiper, Greenshank, Yellow-crowned Woodpecker, Long-tailed Shrikes. In the evening several Brown Rock Chats were seen perched on the hotel building. Jackal, Sambar, Spotted Deer and Indian Wild Boar were the mammals seen. Stayed overnight at hotel Laxmi Vilas Palace, Bharatpur. Naturetrek April 13 3

5 Day 11 Saturday 16th Bharatpur Rain, cleared later, then warm Our second day started late due to the rain at Bharatpur. We enjoyed a walk around the forest nursery which produced a couple of Spotted Owlets and Oriental Honey Buzzards. Our route to the temple on the rickshaw today took us through wooded habitat and although the woods were quiet we were rewarded with a Long-eared Hare, Jackals and Grey Mongoose. We saw Spotted Eagles and Thick-knee amongst common species. A few minutes after getting into the park we saw a Dusky Eagle Owl at its nest. It was now time to visit the wetlands - roadside pools had some waterbirds such as storks and egrets, wildfowl, and ibis. We also had a cast of eagles overhead Steppe, Crested Serpent Eagle, Marsh Harrier, Greater Spotted and the Indian Spotted Eagle. Moving deeper into the grasslands we were in pursuit of Indian Coursers and soon found a rather large flock of the Yellow Wattled Lapwing and Paddyfield Pipits. Day 12 Sunday 17th Bharatpur/ Ranthambore We did hour and a half birding in the park. After our breakfast we caught the Golden Temple Express for the three hour transfer to Sawai Madhopur. The journey passed swiftly and uneventfully and we arrived at Pug Mark Hotel Day 13 Monday 18th Ranthambore We were ready by 6.30am and as soon as the jeep arrived we left for our first morning game drive which remained very quiet overall. We were on a different route on the afternoon drive where almost fully grown tiger cubs had been seen in the morning by others, so we headed straight to the lake and stayed put, but in vain we had a great time birding and seeing a couple of Great Thick-knees plus a nice selection of birds. Day 14 Tuesday 19th Ranthambore We were ready by 6.30am and left for our morning drive which remained very quiet as far as animal activity is concerned, but was a very scenic hill drive. The afternoon game drive was on a different route and today we were lucky - we saw three fully grown cubs by the side of the road unperturbed by the people on the jeeps around them. Everybody was overjoyed to see our first Tigers of the trip! The evening was spent watching the local folk lore at the lodge. 4 Naturetrek April 13

6 Day 15 Wednesday 20th Ranthambore Soon we were once again examining the forest for various clues the tiger would have left for us. In the morning today we got a quiet route. The afternoon game drive turned out to be lucky again, as we saw a Tigress with her only cub strolling casually on the tracks towards us - what an amazing sighting! It remained in our sights for about half an hour before disappearing Day 16 Thursday 21st Ranthambore/ New Delhi It was our final drive before returning to Delhi today and we covered quite a lot of ground but overall it remained quiet. The train arrived on time and we were aboard the Golden Temple Express bound for Delhi and by 6.30pm we reached Nizamuddin and the start of the journey back to the UK. It all seemed to have started just yesterday but time flies so fast and we were soon bidding goodbye to each other Day 17 Friday 22nd Return to the UK Receive our e-newsletter Join the Naturetrek ing list and be the first to hear about new tours, additional departures and new dates, tour reports and special offers. Visit to sign up. Naturetrek Facebook We are delighted to launch the Naturetrek Facebook page so that participants of Naturetrek tours can remain in touch after the holiday and share photos, comments and future travel plans. Setting up a personal profile at is quick, free and easy. The Naturetrek Facebook page is now live; do please pay us a visit! Naturetrek April 13 5

7 Temples and Tigers - The Best of Northern India Species Lists Birds (h = heard only, = recorded but not counted) 1 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis 2 Spot-billed Pelican Pelicanus philipensis 3 Great White Pelican Pelicanus onocrotalus 4 Indian Cormorant Phalacrocorax fuscicollis 5 Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo 6 Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger 7 Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster 8 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 9 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea 10 Great Egret Ardea alba 11 Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia 12 Little Egret Egretta garzetta 13 Indian Pond-heron Ardeola grayii 14 Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 15 Little Heron Butorides striata 16 Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax 17 Black Bittern Ixobrychus flavicollis 18 Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala 19 Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans 20 Black Stork Ciconia nigra 21 Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus 22 Black-necked Stork Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus 23 Lesser Adjutant Laptopilos javanicus 24 Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus 25 Red-naped Ibis Pseudibis papillosa 26 Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia 27 Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber 28 Lesser Whistling Duck Dendrocyna javanica 29 Greylag Goose Anser anser Naturetrek April 13 1

8 30 Bar-headed Goose Anser indicus 31 Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea 32 Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos 33 Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope 34 Gadwall Anas strepera 35 Common Teal Anas crecca 36 Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha 37 Northern Pintail Anas acuta 38 Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata 39 Red-crested Pochard Aythya rufina 40 Common Pochard Aythya ferina 41 Osprey Pandion haliaetus 42 Oriental Honey-buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus 43 Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus 44 Black Kite Milvus migrans 45 Grey-headed Fish-eagle Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus 46 Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus 47 Long-billed Vulture Gyps indicus 48 Eurasian Griffon Gyps fulvus 49 Himalayan Griffon Gyps himalayensis 50 Red-headed Vulture Sarcogyps calvus 51 Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus 52 Crested Serpent-eagle Spilornis cheela 53 Eurasian Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus 54 Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus 55 Shikra Accipiter badius 56 White-eyed Buzzard Butastur teesa 57 Indian Spotted Eagle Aquila hastata 58 Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga 59 Booted Eagle Aquila pennatus 60 Changeable Hawk-eagle Spizaetus cirrhatus 61 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus 2 Naturetrek April 13

9 62 Painted Francolin Francolinus pictus 63 Grey Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus 64 Painted Spurfowl Galloperdix lunulata 65 Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus 66 Sarus Crane Grus antigone 67 White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus 68 Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio 69 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus 70 Common Coot Fulica atra 71 Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus 72 Greater Painted-snipe Rostratula benghalensis 73 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus 74 Stone-curlew (Eurasian Thicknee) Burhinus oedicnemus 75 Great Thick-knee Burhinus recurvirostris 76 Indian Courser Cursorius coromandelicus 77 River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii 78 Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus 79 Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus 80 White-tailed Lapwing Vanellus leucurus 81 Little -ringed plover Charadrius dubius 82 Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus 83 Common Redshank Tringa totanus 84 Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis 85 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia 86 Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus 87 Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola 88 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 89 Temmink s Stint Calidris temminickii 90 Ruff Philomachus pugnax 91 Pallas's Gull Larus ichthyaetus 92 River Tern Sterna aurantia 93 Painted Sandgrouse Pterocles indicus Naturetrek April 13 3

10 94 Rock Dove Columba livia 95 Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis 96 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto 97 Red Collared-dove Streptopelia tranquebarica 98 Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis 99 Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis 100 Yellow-footed Pigeon Treron phoenicoptera 101 Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria 102 Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri 103 Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala 104 Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopacea 105 Sirkeer Malkoha Phaenicophaeus leschenaultii 106 Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis 107 Indian Scops-owl Otus bakkamoena 108 Brown Fish-owl Ketupa zeylonensis 109 Spotted Owlet Athene brama 110 Dusky Eagle Owl Bubo bubo 111 House Swift Apus affinis 112 Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata 113 Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis 114 Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis 115 White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis 116 Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis 117 Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis 118 Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis 119 Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops 120 Indian Grey Hornbill Ocyceros birostris 121 Brown-headed Barbet Megalaima zeylanica 122 Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala 123 Brown-capped Woodpecker Dendrocopos moluccensis nanus 124 Yellow-crowned Woodpecker Dendrocopos mahrattensis 125 Black-rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalense 4 Naturetrek April 13

11 126 Indian Lark Mirafra erythroptera 127 Ashy-crowned Sparrow-lark Eremopterix grisea 128 Rufous-tailed Lark Ammomanes phoenicurus 129 Crested Lark Galerida cristata 130 Dusky Crag-martin Ptyonoprogne concolor 131 Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii 132 Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica 133 White Wagtail Motacilla alba 134 White-browed Wagtail Motacilla madaraspatensis 135 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea 136 Oriental Pipit Anthus rufulus 137 Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis 138 Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni 139 Large Cuckoo-shrike Coracina macei 140 Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus 141 Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus 142 White bellied Minivet Pericrocotus erythropygius 143 White-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus leucotis 144 Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer 145 Common Iora Aegithina tiphia 146 Orange-headed Thrush Zoothera citrina 147 Tickell's Thrush Turdus unicolor 148 Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis 149 Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii 150 Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis 151 Plain Prinia Prinia inornata 152 Blyth's Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum 153 Clamorous Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus 154 Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius 155 Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita 156 Sulphur-bellied Warbler Phylloscopus griseolus 157 Hume's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus humei Naturetrek April 13 5

12 158 Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides 159 Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca 160 Red Throated Flycatcher Ficedula parva albicilla 161 Tickell's Blue-flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae 162 Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis 163 Siberian Rubythroat Luscinia calliope 164 Bluethroat Luscinia svecica 165 Oriental Magpie-robin Copsychus saularis 166 Indian Robin Saxicoloides fulicata 167 Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros 168 Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata 169 Grey Bushchat Saxicola ferrea 170 Siberian Stonechat Saxicola torquata 171 Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina 172 Indian Chat Cercomela fusca 173 White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola 174 Tawny-bellied Babbler Dumetia hyperythra 175 Yellow-eyed Babbler Chrysomma sinense 176 Common Babbler Turdoides daudatus 177 Large Grey Babbler Turdoides malcolmi 178 Jungle Babbler Turdoides striatus 179 Great Tit Parus major 180 Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus 181 Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus 182 Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus 183 Bay-backed Shrike Lanius vittatus 184 Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach 185 Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis 186 Common Woodshrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus 187 Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus 188 White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens 189 Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda 6 Naturetrek April 13

13 190 House Crow Corvus splendens 191 Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos 192 Bank Myna Acridotheres ginginianus 193 Common Myna Acridotheres tristis 194 Asian Pied Starling Gracupica contra 195 Brahminy Starling Temenuchus pagodarum 196 House Sparrow Passer domesticus 197 Chestnut-shouldered Petronia Petronia xanthocollis 198 Baya Weaver Ploceus philippinus 199 Indian Silverbill Euodice malabarica 200 White-capped bunting Emberiza 201 Imperial Eagle Emberiza buchanani Mammals 1 Royal Bengal Tiger Panthera tigris tigris 2 Leopard Panthera pardus 3 Jungle Cat Felis chaus 4 Rhesus Macaque Macaca mulatta 5 Common Langur Presbytis entellus 6 Indian Small Mongoose Herpestes auropunctatus 7 Ruddy Mongoose Herpestes smithii 8 Golden Jackal Canis aureus 9 Indian or Black-naped Hare Lepus nigricollis 10 Five-striped Palm Squirrel Funambulus pennanti 11 Sambar Cervus unicolor 12 Chital (Spotted Deer) Cervus axis 13 Khincara (Indian Gazelle) Gazella bennetti 14 Nilgai (Blue Bull) Boselaphus tragocamelus 18 Indian Wild Boar Sus scrofa Naturetrek April 13 7

14 Other fauna 1 Indian Softshelled Turtle Lissemys punctata 2 Marsh Mugger Crocodile Crocodylus palustris 3 Indian Skitter Frog Rana cyanophlyctis 14 Bandicoot Rat Golunda ellioti 8 Naturetrek April 13