PAPUA NEW GUINEA TOUR REPORT

Transcription

1 PAPUA NEW GUINEA MAY/2 JUNE 2009 TOUR REPORT LEADER: NIK BORROW Papua New Guinea is absolutely one of those essential destinations for any world travelling birder. At least 708 species have been recorded from this, the worlds second largest island and it is also home to three endemic bird families; the berrypeckers, the painted berrypeckers and the satin birds as well as some strange creatures of uncertain affinities such as the beautiful Blue-capped Ifrita, Wattled Ploughbill and the shy melampittas. There is also the added attraction of seeing representatives of what must be the most spectacular bird family in the world, the Birds of Paradise (or BoPs to the initiated!). Our three week long trip was just enough time to get a mouth-watering taster for this amazing place and by sampling a selection of habitats from lowland swamp rainforest, hill and montane forest to small offshore islands we managed to record a very respectable 371 species of birds (of which 348 were seen) and three identifiable mammals. It must be said that PNG offers the visitor some extremely challenging birding as the birds are often shy and wary and frustrating moments with the many skulkers could reduce a grown man to tears! On top of this logistics are sometimes rather shaky (always expect the unexpected) and the weather can really put a dampener on the birding at times as it can rain and rain in the highlands - actually it can rain and rain anywhere! It is also hot and humid in the lowlands where if unprotected by lotions, sprays and creams the leeches, chiggers and mosquitoes can show no mercy. This year we had unusually fine weather and a relatively smooth and undisrupted tour logistically with a three hours flight delay and a late bus arrival being the worst events encountered. One thing is certain; PNG is definitely not a place where one can expect to clean up in a few weeks! Having said this, the birding rewards can be immense and we were treated to many magic moments such as the encounter with the seemingly fearless Pheasant Pigeon that wandered slowly down the track towards us in Varirata National Park. The long day on the Fly and Elevala Rivers where we ultimately got great views of the enormous Southern Crowned Pigeon looking like some wonderful refugee from the hippy era. We had a number of Attenborough moments with the wonderful crack-of-dawn display of beautiful Lesser BoPs and the bizarre antennae waving of the King of Saxony BoPs. The male Black Sicklebill that started calling from a dead tree snag before dawn and as the sun rose the bird sank lower into the foliage only to finally disappear. A Brown-headed Paradise Kingfisher sat quietly inside the dark forest dressed in colours that appeared to illuminate the gloom. Also worthy of mention were the superb Sooty Owl that was somewhat rudely awakened from its slumbers, a New Britain Boobook gazing quizzically down at us from a daytime roost, several encounters with the glorious Blue BoP in the highland forests and the strange Nicobar Pigeon on the tiny islets in Kimbe Bay. A Barred Owlet- 1 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

2 nightjar that peered out at us from its daytime roost hole and a male Wattled Ploughbill, all three Jewel-babblers, delightful Black-breasted Boatbills, colourful Brehm s Tiger Parrots and exotic Crested and Tit Berrypeckers were also welcome discoveries. It had taken us two long plane journeys crossing all of Eurasia to reach the magical destination of Papua New Guinea and the members of our keen Birdquest group were quite clear about what they wanted from this tour. The shopping list was as many families (particularly the berrypeckers - both painted and otherwise - and the satin birds), paradise-kingfishers, jewel-babblers and of course, BoPs as possible - no mean order! We arrived at Port Moresby in the early hours of the morning obviously tired and jetlagged but also eager to get started and soon found ourselves on a fresh and beautifully sunny morning driving up towards Varirata National Park along a scenic winding road that carried us up through the open eucalyptus woodland that flanks the park. Along the way, we noted Brahminy and Whistling Kites and plenty of Torresian Crows. Upon arrival we found a Fawn-breasted Bowerbird, Blue-winged Kookaburra and noisy New Guinea Friarbirds and Black-backed Butcherbirds appeared. Uniform and Glossy Swiftlets, Rainbow Bee-eaters and Dollarbirds were very much in evidence, Pheasant Coucals flushed from the grasses, White-bellied Cuckoo-shrike, Leaden and Lemon-bellied Flycatchers were seen, Rainbow Lorikeets and Red-cheeked Parrots screeched past and we also found several attractive White-throated Honeyeaters. Moving on into the park we saw Slender-billed Cuckoo-doves and Brown Oriole easily and admired a pair of dapper Frilled Monarchs. A secretive Brown-headed Paradise Kingfisher literally glowed in the dim light of the forest understorey whilst the impish Barred Owlet-nightjar peered down at us from its daytime roost hole and noisy Black-billed Brush-turkeys were as usual heard but not seen. A small bird party surrendered the pretty Dwarf Whistler and Chestnut-bellied Fantail as well as Yellowbellied and Fairy Gerygones, Grey-headed Whistler, Little Shrike-thrush, Dwarf Honeyeater, Black Berrypecker, Black-fronted White-eye and Hooded Pitohuis the latter being the first of a succession of curiously poisonous birds seen on this tour. Meliphagas mystified but we claimed Mimic and Graceful. Noisy Spangled Drongos were associated with the flock and there was also a brief look at a Black Pitohui, Boyer s Cuckoo-shrike, Cicadabird and our first bird of paradise; Raggiana BoP. A trio of staked out Marbled Frogmouths were seen just after our picnic lunch and rounded off a very satisfying morning. Time was short and we had much more to do so we headed back down towards Port Moresby to the Pacific Adventist University campus with its little collection of ponds that usually support a good selection of species and some people were lucky enough to see a Spotted Whistling Duck before it disappeared into cover. More in evidence around the pools were numerous Australasian or Blackbacked Swamp-hens, Dusky Moorhens, Australian Ibis, Rufous Night Heron, attractive Pied Herons and numbers of Little Black Cormorants. Elegant Comb-crested Jacanas trotted across the lily pads, a pair of Australasian Grebes tended their youngsters and groups of Pacific Black Ducks and Wandering Whistling Ducks lined the banks. A pair of Grey Shrike-thrush and several Rufous-banded Honeyeaters showed well. Both Peaceful and Bar-shouldered Doves were seen almost simultaneously for comparison and there were Sacred Kingfisher, Black-faced Cuckoo-shrike, Willie Wagtail, White-breasted Woodswallow and Yellow-faced Myna. Masked Lapwings were dotted across the dry lawns, striking Torresian Imperial Pigeons flew over and after some searching we managed to find the resident pair of Papuan Frogmouths and marvelled at their amazing bills and cryptic plumage. Everyone was by this stage fading fast and after a long journey and an eventful day we returned to the hotel for a good nights sleep. An early pre-dawn start the next day found us back at Varirata National Park. Large-tailed Nightjar was seen but a noisy White-crowned Koel could not be persuaded to show itself. As the day dawned and birds became more active, we increasingly began to realise that actually seeing birds in PNG is 2 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

3 not always very straightforward. Many species are frustratingly shy and seem to have developed a distinct knack of somehow always being on the wrong side of a cluster of leaves or obscured by a mossy bough. Some were no more than disembodied voices others would offer a tantalising glimpse and then magically disappear without offering any clue as to where they had gone! So this introductory morning was a fierce contest during which everyone won at least a few mouth-watering prizes even if a clean sweep was out of the question. The car park area afforded a good view all around and Moustached Tree Swifts were hawking low over the trees in the early morning half-light. There was some early morning bird activity in the treetops and we had some good views of Pink-spotted Fruit-dove, Varied Triller, tiny Green-backed Gerygones, Red-capped Flowerpecker, Mountain and Red-headed Myzomelas as well as some showy Crinkle-collared Manucodes. Eventually we moved onto one of the narrow trails that run through the park. Piercing whistles of both Northern Scrub-robin and Painted Quail-thrush reached our ears but we had no chance of seeing these furtive species through the thick undergrowth. We fared rather better with the canopy species and found a tiny Buff-faced Pygmy-parrot foraging on the branches of the tall trees. Noisy Hooded Butcherbirds were easy to see, a handsome Zoe Imperial Pigeon sat and posed nicely for us and a bird party contained a pair of thrumming and mostly invisible Crested Pitohuis as well as Yellow-eyed and Black Cuckoo-shrikes and Rusty Pitohui. The cries of a Pheasant Pigeon reached our ears and we peered down into one of the steep sided gullies in a vain attempt to see this elusive bird. We were distracted by a pretty White-faced Robin as the pigeon continued to wail in the distance and prompted another to reply. We seemed to be caught between the two individuals but nothing had prepared us for what was about to happen for as we were returning we came face to face with one of the birds wandering down the path towards us. This magnificent creature strutted down the path towards us pumping and cocking its tail seemingly oblivious to our presence and passed by within a few metres of us before finally disappearing back into the forest. It was getting towards lunchtime and it seemed that after this amazing sighting that the morning was over but there was one more success story to tell for a Chestnut-backed Jewel-babbler started calling close by and was briefly coaxed into view for at least some of the party. Even after lunch the birds kept coming with a small flock that allowed us views of Spot-winged and Golden Monarchs, Yellowbreasted Boatbill and even an Eastern Riflebird put in an appearance although it was difficult to get onto. After lunch, we visited the Raggiana BoP display area and we were soon enjoying some excellent scope views of the shimmering, shivering tail and wings of some very fine males. We spent the rest of the afternoon in more open habitat where Papuan Black Myzomelas were feeding in the flowering trees, a Yellow-billed Kingfisher and stunning Western Black-capped Lories were admired. A Shining Bronze Cuckoo and our first Grey Crows put in an appearance and the afternoon was rounded off by a pair of White-throated Pigeons and a super White-bellied Whistler. It had certainly been a marvellous day. The next day things were rolling along nicely as we checked on to a domestic flight that was happily more or less on time that took us via Moro onwards to the small town of Kiunga situated on the famous Fly River near the border with West Papua. We checked in at the guesthouse and after a quick lunch we headed out to the now famous kilometre 17 and its Greater Bird of Paradise display trees. It was sadly painfully quiet at the display tree which held only single token males of both Raggiana and Greater BoPs going through the motions and little else moved in the forest apart from an active Yellow-bellied Longbill. Pride of place however went to some superb views of Purple-tailed Imperial Pigeon. We waited for some evening activity to materialise as Papuan Spine-tailed Swifts fluttered over trees, and were rewarded by a pair of Crested Hawks, Long-tailed Buzzard, Orangebellied Fruit-dove, Greater Streaked Lory and Trumpet Manucode. 3 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

4 This year we only operated one full day trip on the Fly and Elevala Rivers and fortunately, we were blessed with good weather particularly as we were due to make the trip in a small open-top boat. We set off in the dark with our trusted guide Kwiwan and were soon speeding on our way through a low mist that clung to the murky waters. Our aim was to get to a Twelve-wired Bird of Paradise display area at first light and this was swiftly achieved in time to see a young male running up and down his display snag. As the sun rose the mist burnt off and many Collared Imperial Pigeons with small numbers of Pinon Imperial Pigeons were everywhere and as we went along the river numerous colourful Eclectus Parrots and Sulphur-crested Cockatoos screeched overhead and a number of magnificently crested Palm Cockatoos showed well. Other parrots included Orange-breasted, Double-eyed and a pair of Large Fig-parrots. Shining Flycatchers and the ubiquitous Willie Wagtail flitted low over the waters. Flocks of ponderous Blyth s Hornbills with buzzing wing beats passed by, Dollarbirds occupied lofty perches and a few Golden Mynas put in an appearance. Glossy-mantled Manucodes were relatively common as we cruised along, hulking Channel-billed Cuckoos were seen and two enormous Great-billed Herons were flushed from the banks. Rufous-bellied Kookaburras made a great impression and other birds included a glorious male Flame Bowerbird, striking Lowland Peltops, dazzling Golden Cuckoo-shrike, no less than three Azure Kingfishers, Black Bittern, Whitebellied Sea Eagle, Variable Goshawk, Dwarf Fruit-dove, Australian Koel and hundreds of Metallic Starlings. Even the localised White-bellied Pitohui was persuaded to show itself and finally we reached an apparently unremarkable spot along the river and clambered ashore where we moved on to a stakeout for the amazing King BoP. The sounds of its calls reached our ears instantly and looking up a pinprick of intense blood red was seen underneath the low canopy. Soon the scope was trained on the bird and we all had the most amazing views. Stumbling around in the muddy forest we came across the footprints of a Southern Cassowary and hunted out the unassuming Large-billed Gerygone, excitable Rufous Babblers, Scrub White-eared Meliphaga and an elusive Hooded Monarch in a bird party. A pair of Common Paradise Kingfishers took a long time before they surrendered themselves, a Little Paradise Kingfisher was also present but was unfortunately only heard. Time was getting on and there was still one major bird missing from our lists. A staked out nest belonging to the worlds largest pigeon was visited but it appeared to have been abandoned. The water levels were exceptionally low this year and after a long search we found the incredible Southern Crowned Pigeon walking in full view by the waters edge and we were treated to some marvellous close views of this astounding bird (with its outrageous hair-do and eye makeup!) before it moved away into the shelter and privacy of the forest. This was a sensational way to end the day but the grand finale turned out to be a Vulturine Parrot flying across the river in front of us. It had really been a great day. On the next day, we took a trip along the Boystown Road which had recently been substantially upgraded and now was very easy to drive with no fears of getting stuck as in previous years. A Sooty Owl flushed from the side of the road on this rather wet morning but eluded most of the group. Fortunately, the rain had stopped by the time we arrived and we arrived at the bowerbird knoll watch-point in good time just as it was getting light. We gathered on the top of the rise, jostled for position and then settled down to wait. The technique employed here is simply one of wait and see and gradually, species by species more new birds passed us by. Brush Cuckoo and Streak-headed, Tawny-breasted and Plain Honeyeaters were duly ticked off and Red-flanked Lorikeets and Yellowcapped Pygmy-parrots flew overhead. A flowering tree held two Meyer s Friarbirds, Black Sunbird and Red-throated Myzomela. More Flame Bowerbirds were seen flapping lazily past (they really don t come much brighter than this!) and there was a Grey-headed Goshawk and a New Guinea Bronzewing for one lucky participant whilst the group was struggling to see the attractive and strongvoiced Black-sided Robin. A lot of our time was occupied through mostly successfully trying to get everyone to see a pair of skulking Blue Jewel-babblers as they repeatedly crept around us. A pair of pretty Emperor Fairy-wrens was far more accommodating and allowed some excellent views. 4 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

5 After lunch a visit to the airstrip at Kiunga yielded two Australian Pratincoles that were on the runway and the hoped for Red-backed Buttonquail as well as Buff-banded Rail and a migrant Tree Martin. A repeat visit to Kilometre 17 was once again rather disappointing but was enlivened by sightings of Variable Pitohui and both Greater and Lesser Black Coucals. We tried again one more time the following morning and were frustrated to only hear a Thick-billed Ground Pigeon but delighted to see a confiding Rufous-backed Fantail, Rusty Mouse-warbler and we also had another crack at a Blue Jewel-babbler. It was definitely time to move on and we took the twisting but well-made service road towards Tabubil, home to one of the largest copper and gold mines of New Guinea. We travelled through the forested foothills of the Star Mountains stopping en route to take in the interesting resident form of Little Ringed Plover that occurs here. We then visited the rushing streams at Ok Menga where we found Torrent Flycatchers almost immediately, Long-billed Honeyeater was seen and a responsive White-bellied Thicket-fantail shot back and forth across the road. However, we had to wait some time until the pair of resident Salvadori s Teals graced us with their presence by which time it was late and we went on to seek the sanctuary of the hotel. The next morning was fine and dry (perhaps too fine for this normally very wet area!) and we visited our next birding site known as Dablin Creek. Unfortunately most of the vegetation on the lower slopes of the hillside had been cleared over the past year for farms and this is probably the demise of this site as the remaining standing trees at the edge of the upper forest also seem to be dead or dying. The birding was painfully slow but we still managed to gather up a few goodies. The main species is the rather unimpressive but little-known Obscure Berrypecker that appears to be pretty easy to see here as we rarely have a problem finding it even with the forest in its present sorry state. The striking White-rumped Robin was glimpsed a number of times but rarely stayed in view for long. A Doria s Hawk circled round just above our heads, pretty Mountain Peltops showed well and we had amazing views of a pair of Torrent-larks. The lack of fruiting trees (or perhaps just trees generally!) meant that numbers of birds of paradise were virtually zero but we did manage views of one female Magnificent BoP. Other species seen during the day included Black-billed Cuckoo-dove, White-eared Bronze Cuckoo, Grey-headed Cuckoo-shrike, White-shouldered Fairy-wren, Black and Northern Fantails, Mountain Meliphaga, Rusty Whistler and Rufous-tailed Bush-hen was heard calling A further problem now threatened our visit to this area as the bridge across the Ok Tedi had once again been washed away. We managed to arrange a vehicle to meet us on the other side but again was thwarted in our attempts to get to the site for the landowner had decided for reasons unknown to us that birdwatchers were no longer welcome at the site for Greater Melampitta and Shovel-billed Kingfisher. We could not risk the possible wrath and consequences of continuing our visit and this was obviously an enormous disappointment following on from the quiet previous day. We decided to try a different site near Dablin that was suitably named Yuk Creek! Here the habitat was in better shape but the steep hillsides and lack of fruit once again frustrated, and although a Carola s Parotia could be heard, we could not see where it was feeding. We made the best of a quiet morning, Bluecollared Parrots flew high overhead (do they ever land?), a pair of Stout-billed Cuckoo-shrikes put in a brief appearance and we had great looks at well-marked Spotted Honeyeater and a colourful Ornate Melidectes. We decided to return to Ok Menga in the afternoon and at least we managed to actually see birds there. Three Salvadori s Teals put on a great show for those who decided to look for them again and these birds were joined by another Torrent-lark. Most of the group opted to walk the road, Papuan Mountain Pigeons flew overhead and other new birds included a female Magnificent Riflebird and Superb Fruit-dove. Another Vulturine Parrot flew over and as dusk fell a Shovel-billed Kingfisher mocked us by calling loudly but sat firmly too far away to even hope to see it. It had been a bitterly disappointing stay and we were all keen to move on. 5 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

6 We drove back to Kiunga but our flight to Hagen was delayed for several hours and this meant a tedious wait at the airport shed with only a Pacific Golden Plover and another Australian Pratincole to keep us company. Eventually we were once again in the air and arrived at Mount Hagen to be greeted by Max our guide for Kumul Lodge. Within the space of an hour, we found ourselves sitting on the lodge balcony overlooking the feeders on a somewhat murky afternoon where tame birds were all giving amazingly close-up views. This was a perfect antidote to the past few days. An embargo on hunting and the presence of the feeders have created a wonderful haven for birds and animals around the lodge that is located in beautiful montane forest overlooking Mount Hagen. Here it is refreshingly easy to see birds such as tame Brown Sicklebills, Ribbon-tailed Astrapias, Belford s Melidectes, Brehm s Tiger-parrots, pretty Rufous-naped Whistlers, Common Smoky Honeyeaters and drab Grey-streaked Honeyeaters. Even a Sanford s (split from Archbold s) Bowerbird and a family party of Chestnut Forest Rails were regular visitors this year! Unfortunately, the resident Mountain Owlet-nightjars played hard to get again and stayed well clear of the lodge although the New Guinea Woodcock performed for all those of us that went to look for them. The next day we set off well before light in order to visit the Lesser BoP display area. We were promised easy and eventually after a bumpy ride crushed together in a landcruiser along a potholed tarmac then dirt road we got easy. Several fully plumaged males were advertising for females and we watched the proceedings unfold in awe as the fine morning sun slowly illuminated the show. The Lesser BoPs shook out their plumes and emerged from the dense shrubbery to call and display from the more open trees and we all marvelled at the dazzling colourful display. Large flocks of Goldie s Lorikeets were also much in evidence and a pair of Bat Hawks was a nice bonus! The rest of the morning was spent exploring the surrounding valley and hillsides where some of us had distant views of a Yellow-breasted Bowerbird. A Brown Falcon was scoped at rest and seen well in flight, Black Kites were common and a Brown Goshawk was seen with Mountain Swiftlets now replacing the Uniforms in the skies overhead. In the wooded patches, we found Black-headed Whistlers singing loudly, Brown-breasted Gerygone, New Guinea White-eye and Pygmy Honeyeater whilst the open country gave us handsome Long-tailed Shrikes, Pied Chat and Hooded Mannikin. An afternoon exploring the garden and trails around the lodge didn t produce many birds but the quality was good with Crested Berrypecker and a female Crested BoP (or Satin Bird) that came to visit. A Rufescent Imperial Pigeon was seen in flight and good close up views of species such as glorious Papuan Lorikeets that were frequenting the popular fruiting and flowering Schefflera. Island Thrush, Mountain Mouse-warbler, Large Scrub-wren, Friendly Fantail, Black-throated Robin, striking White-winged Robin, beautiful Regent Whistler, Fan-tailed Berrypecker, Red-collared Myzomela, Mountain Firetail were all much enjoyed. Not surprisingly we were up early again the next day in order to get to a Blue BoP display area on time and climbed up one of the steep hillsides to gain a strategic viewpoint. Upon arrival, an advertising male Superb BoP was already present spreading his strange fan-like shields. An Island Leaf-warbler and Buff-faced Scrub-wrens were seen, our first Yellow-browed Melidectes sat up on a prominent perch and then the blue bird started calling. Eventually a male was located sat on a bare snag and the scopes were quickly trained on it so that we all had excellent views and could take in the strange plumes and intense colours at our leisure. Then a second male was spotted and finally we watched a much closer female feeding quietly in a fruiting tree. Afterwards we fared rather better with the Yellow-breasted Bowerbirds than we had done the previous day and then headed back to the lodge where a superb adult male Brown Sicklebill was a lunchtime visitor to the bird table. In the afternoon, we worked one of the trails through the moss-festooned montane forests below the lodge and were amazed by our luck with some very skulking birds. Firstly, the distinctive clicks of a Lesser Melampitta caught our attention and the bird was soon circling around us at very close quarters, even posing nicely for us on the narrow trail. Later we had a similar experience with a pair 6 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

7 of Lesser Ground Robins. The trail was steep and narrow but Max and his team have done a grand job of constructing steps and making a very pleasant trail through the forest. A male King of Saxony BoP was displaying but did not show well but we had better luck with Plum-faced Lorikeet, Papuan Scrub-wren, Dimorphic Fantail, Black Monarch, Canary Flycatcher and a male Mottled Whistler although the nature of the terrain was not particularly conducive to group viewing! The next morning we were all set to move to Ambua Lodge and this year had opted to travel by road rather than by air in order to avoid unwanted delays and guarantee us arriving. However even the best laid plans go astray and in PNG it is always true to expect the unexpected and so perhaps it was no surprise that the escort vehicle should arrive but not the bus! It took several hours to work out an alternative plan of hiring another vehicle in Mount Hagen and we set off in order to do so but fortunately ended up meeting our bus coming the other way blissfully unaware or perhaps even uncaring about the problems that its very late arrival had caused. We changed vehicles and it was now time to relax and sit back for the nine hours journey through awesome and spectacular landscape to Ambua Lodge idyllically situated on the slopes above the Tari Valley. For the uninformed, Ambua Lodge had to be one of the biggest surprises of the tour for here we had luxury in the middle of nowhere. Indeed the area was only discovered by the western world as recently as 1934 and we were warmly welcomed by the wonderful management and staff who all did their best to make sure that we had a memorable and comfortable stay. We spent the rest of the afternoon in the garden keeping watch over a fruiting tree. It was late and little was seen but we did manage to add a Bronze Ground-dove that flew across our path. Great Woodswallows perched on the roofs of the chalets, Yellow-billed Lorikeets and a fine Black-breasted Boatbill added splashes of colour to a dull afternoon and a Brown-backed Whistler was seen briefly. We had three full days at Ambua and we could easily have spent longer as new birds kept coming every day. During our stay we would pile into one of the rather dilapidated buses and would be driven, either up (or sometimes down) the hill and there were always the heavyweight Great Woodswallows there to see us off. At first light we checked the fruiting tree and were pleased to find female Loria s BoP (or satinbird), female Blue BoP and a female Stephanie s Astrapia in attendance - we were certainly off to a fine start! Indeed today was one of those days that rolled along perfectly and was perhaps one of the most satisfying days of the trip. We headed first uphill and stopped at a spot where a male Stephanie s Astrapia was particularly active. As we were enjoying this spectacle, the high whistles of a Spotted Jewel-babbler were heard and fortunately the bird was near a small track and with a bit of patience and luck the bird was lured into view for most of the group. However, as with all the jewel-babblers, the movements are so quick and stealthy that one has to be sharp-eyed to catch the movement in the dim light of the undergrowth in which these creatures live. Next, we drove higher and stopped to admire a male King of Saxony Bird of Paradise crackling his static-electricity song and waving around those amazing antennae-like and marvellously unique feathers! Here we also found a pair of Orange-billed Lorikeet feeding and Black-bellied Cuckoo-shrikes showed well. A pair of Red-breasted Pygmy-parrots was little more than fast disappearing blips but a Black-mantled Goshawk allowed us a great flight view as it passed overhead. A pair of Black Sittella was seen in the treetops, a male Sclater s Whistler showed well and Papuan (split from Tawny) Grassbirds lurked in the grass verges. Higher still, we found Black-throated Honeyeater and had great views of first a female and then a male Garnet Robin. On a small trail, we renewed acquaintances with both Chestnut Forest Rail and Lesser Melampitta whilst the sound of the high-pitched thin whistles of a male Wattled Ploughbill with its extraordinary pink wattles eventually led us to the amazing bird itself. We then had incredibly good views of the attractive but poisonous Blue-capped Ifrita. Upon the grasslands of Tari Gap we found Australian Pipit and a male Papuan Harrier. This year Benson was our guide and along his own trail, we heard Ashy Robin, glimpsed Forbes s Forest Rail and enjoyed some super looks at New Guinea Logrunner. We finished the day with a Rufous-throated Bronze Cuckoo and the calls of a distant and sadly invisible New Guinea Harpy Eagle. It had been a great day! 7 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

8 A predawn start the next day gave us views of a Mountain Nightjar sat in one of the quarries by the roadside and after breakfast we tried our luck for a Black Sicklebill below the lodge but sadly we got there a little too late and although the bird was calling it had descended into the shelter of the trees. We decided to head further down into the valley and we bounced down the improved road past fortified fields and gardens and local people with smudges of bright colour across their faces and dazzling bird of paradise feathers in their hair until we reached a couple of suitable gardens. Here we were invited in by our hosts who enthusiastically tried to find the birds on our wish lists for us thus turning the visit into a very enjoyable cultural experience in itself. First in line was a roosting Papuan Boobook that gazed back at us with big round eyes. A perched Papuan King Parrot in the same garden was much admired, Black-shouldered Cicadabirds and Black Butcherbirds were seen, Western Mountain White-eyes foraged in the foliage and another roosting Papuan Frogmouth eyed the goings on disdainfully. In another garden, a tree that normally has a roosting Sooty Owl was scratched and thumped until the poor creature emerged and we all had amazing views of a sleepy and somewhat bemused bird. The landowners receive a payment for protecting the birds and the fact that this bird remains faithful to its tree after all these years must mean that it prefers to be rudely awakened for visiting birding groups once in a while rather than be persecuted by catapults and bows and arrows! In the afternoon, we explored the waterfall trail behind the lodge. The birds were few and far between and the steep slopes and narrow path did not make things easy either. However Tit Berrypeckers were seen on several occasions, charming Blue-grey Robins were easy to find, Rufousbacked Honeyeater and a female Mid-mountain Berrypecker were watched and we had exceptional views of Black-mantled Goshawk and White-breasted Fruit-dove. The following morning we made a second attempt for the Black Sicklebill but set out earlier and visited a different viewpoint. The path was steep and slippery and for a moment it seemed that we might have made the wrong decision as to which place to watch from but happily everyone made it to the lookout safely and in time just before the bird started calling. Benson knew exactly where to look and he spotted it first perched up high on a bare snag and through the scopes in the clear morning air we had pretty good views of a fully plumaged male despite the distance. We retraced our steps and on the way found the rather dowdy Marbled Honeyeater. So far during this tour we had been very disappointed with our luck with Parotias. We had failed to see Carola s at Tabubil and searching for Lawes s the previous day in the various gardens had drawn a blank. We therefore returned to the valley to another garden where there was also a known display area so that the chances of seeing one were raised. The only problem was that we first had to wade a wide stream of rushing cold water. This wasn t an insurmountable problem and all those that wished to do it managed fairly easily. Once on the other side the problem was actually finding the birds because already the morning activity was already beginning to die away. Both Superb and Blue BoPs were present and eventually a female Lawes s Parotia did indeed put in a brief appearance but sadly, the event was not seen by everyone. We waited and waited but the forest was growing quieter and so we decided to go to look at a Macgregor s Bowerbird bower and then return. There was a lot of human activity in the area with a cuscus hunt going on and we saw very little except the bower but upon our return to the parotia spot we had some fine looks at an immature male Lawes s Parotia feeding in a fruiting tree and so the morning was saved. No sooner had we got back into the bus than we screeched to a halt again for a pair of Papuan Sittellas by the roadside! After lunch, we returned to higher levels for our final afternoon at Ambua and began the difficult task of trying to fill in the missing gaps in our list. Frustratingly we heard perhaps more than we saw with Brown Quail, Painted Tiger-parrot and Hooded Cuckoo-shrike being amongst the disembodied voices. Successes came with much-wanted Crested Berrypeckers for everyone, some magnificent 8 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

9 adult male Ribbon-tailed Astrapias with flowing tails, a party of delightful Orange-crowned Fairywrens and a fantastic Short-tailed Paradigalla at the end of the day. An early morning walk before we had to leave produced nothing new but another pair of Torrentlarks was more than welcome. Time had run out and so we sadly packed our bags, bade farewell to the wonderful lodge and descended back to Tari airport from where we eventually caught a somewhat delayed plane back to Port Moresby. There was little left of the afternoon but we made a brave attempt to salvage the lost hours and made a visit to an area of mangroves and coastal savannah just outside town in time to see some attractive Orange-fronted Fruit-doves coming to roost. The following morning we had just enough time to pay a final visit to Varirata National Park and tried in vain to see a nocturnal Hook-billed Kingfisher. We decided to opt for the Boundary Trail and spent all morning in the interior of the forest where we had perhaps a more frustrating time than successful although a number of special species were seen they were not shared by everyone and gave tantalising glimpses or great looks depending on your luck. These included Blue-breasted Pitta, another Chestnut-backed Jewel-babbler, Sooty Thicket-fantail, Northern Scrub-robin, Mountain Drongo and White-eared Catbird. We had good looks at Wompoo Fruit-dove but the two most spectacular sightings of the morning had to be the incredible Common Spotted Cuscus curled up asleep in a tree above our heads and a fantastic Doria s Hawk sat on an active nest! We were due to leave Port Moresby that afternoon as this was the end of the main tour and we sadly said goodbye to two participants while the rest of us carried on to Hoskins on the island of New Britain. We arrived on the island and reacquainted ourselves with a warm humid climate tempered by refreshing sea breezes and soon found ourselves being whisked along in a comfortable bus to Walindi Plantation Resort for a four nights stay where our fine bungalows overlooked the coral reefs and we enjoyed a really good evening meal. The next morning we found ourselves out on a small diving boat heading out to some offshore islands in search of a few species that despite their proximity to the mainland are strangely restricted to them. We first circled the islands that were full of Grey Imperial Pigeons. Osprey and White-bellied Sea Eagle soared overhead, Island Monarch was seen and Stephan s Ground-dove was watched wandering around on the beach. However, the tide was very high and the hoped for Nicobar Pigeons were only seen in flight as they flew in and out of the trees. It therefore became apparent that we needed to land in order to try to see these birds better. We made a beach landing on Restorff Island, entered the darkness of the forested islet scattering a pair of Melanesian Scrubfowl and the muchwanted Nicobars! However, after waiting patiently we were rewarded by excellent views of a perched bird that was swiftly placed in the scope thus allowing fine views for all. Also on this island we watched a pair of Mangrove Golden Whistlers and the pretty Sclater s Myzomela, the males with their luminous red throat patch. Some of the group were lucky enough to see a dapper New Britain Kingfisher. Another island allowed us definitive views of Beach Kingfisher, Yellow-bellied Sunbird and some confusing Shining Flycatchers. On the boat trip back to the lodge we saw numerous Island Crows, Pacific Reef Egrets, Crested, Black-naped and Common Terns and a Lesser Frigatebird. Stopping briefly to take in one of the Bismarck Archipelago specials; a group of Buff-bellied Mannikins in a grassy field, the rest of the afternoon was spent along the Kulu River where we found Little Pied Cormorant, Collared and Common Kingfishers and White-rumped Swiftlets. Long-tailed Mynas sat sentinel on exposed perches, impressively large Great Flying Foxes flapped lazily overhead and we notched up our first Knob-billed Fruit-dove, Red-knobbed and Yellow-tinted Imperial Pigeons and colourful eastern Black-capped Lories. Blue-eyed Cockatoos and Eclectus Parrots screeched by and in fact, this place seemed to be all parrots and pigeons! A stop at a patch of forest at dusk produced a flight view of a New Britain Boobook in the torch beam as it glided around us. 9 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

10 We were up very early the next morning for an excursion to Pokili Forest. We arrived in good time and hunted out a guide that was required to accompany us into the forest. Due to late and heavier rains than usual, the track through the forest was in a poor state of repair and our vehicle had a hard time getting to the beginning of the trail that we were to take through the forest. The place was alive with fantastic bird sounds and the cacophony of sounds from a chorus of parrots, pigeons, coucals and kingfishers was almost deafening! Exasperatingly the birds that we tried to see all played hard to get and it was sometime before we broke a run of bad luck and actually started seeing things. A White-bibbed Ground-dove was persuaded to cross our path several times in flight but we had little chance of seeing it at rest. We fared better with an immaculate Black-headed Paradise Kingfisher and a hulking Violaceous Coucal. New Britain Friarbirds chortled from the canopy, Ashy Myzomelas and tiny Red-banded Flowerpeckers were seen as well as pair of striking Black-tailed Monarchs. The handsome Finsch s Imperial Pigeon was initially elusive but finally we found a co-operative individual that allowed some very fine views. The trail led us into the megapode egg laying area where numerous holes had been made into the sandy, thermally heated soil by the Melanesian Scrubfowl themselves and of course, by the people who burrowed after them on specified days of the week in order to harvest the eggs. Having got to the burrows we then found out that our guide was apparently a visitor to the area and did not know the path through the colony and so we had to return the way we came! This was of little consequence except that our driver had in turn wondered where we were and had gone in search of us leaving the bus locked and us at the mercy of a plague of sweat bees! The afternoon remained pretty quiet bird-wise but was redeemed by the sighting of a New Britain Boobook in broad daylight gazing quizzically down at us, and this striking Ninox was much enjoyed. However now the day started going rather wrong for our bus finally managed to become inextricably stuck in a deep pothole in the road and we were far from help with no telephone or radio connection either. The guide went in search of help leaving the driver and his aide to dig out the vehicle with rapidly crafted pointed sticks. We chose to carry on birding and walk towards the village taking in a trio of Pied Coucals along the way. We finally reached the village at dusk and there met our Good Samaritan who introduced himself to us in the form of Father Michael. He happily collected us up in the back of his pick-up truck and ferried us firstly to an area that had network reception and then back towards Walindi where we were met by a rescue bus from the resort en route. Our beleaguered bus appeared some hours later after having been successfully dug and pulled out of its hole so all ended well and we were back on track for the next day. Our final day was spent exploring a newly discovered area along a road through logged forest. The flowering trees held Black-bellied Myzomelas, Red-flanked Lorikeets and Cicadabirds. Bismarck Hanging and Singing Parrots flew over but the skies were clear and the day heated up quickly thus restricting the bird activity. Bird of the morning was probably the pair of Yellow-legged Pigeons that flew overhead illuminated by a perfect early morning light. In the afternoon, we headed up onto a nearby Ridge in a vain attempt to find a woodswallow but had to content ourselves with no less than 25 Channel-billed Cuckoos and the tour admittedly ended more with a whimper rather than a bang! Our long trip had finally come to its end and we returned to Port Moresby in order to catch our international flight back to Singapore and onwards. This trip had been a superb introduction to the delights of New Guinea s astonishing avifauna. We had barely touched the surface of this vast island yet we had seen an amazing selection of some of its most wonderful and eccentric birds and even been privileged enough to have indulged in some of our own personal Attenborough-like moments. Certainly the memories of those wonderful birds of paradise will last a lifetime and this unique and special corner of the world has to rate up there as one of those great world travel experiences. Go isi isi. Lukim yu. 10 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

11 SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). PODICIPEDIDAE Australasian Grebe Tachybaptus novaehollandiae: A pair with two juveniles was seen on the PAU ponds. FREGATIDAE Lesser Frigatebird Fregata ariel: A female was seen in Kimbe Bay. Three other frigatebirds were noted but were too distant to identify. PHALACROCORACIDAE Little Black Cormorant Phalacrocorax sulcirostris: Good numbers were seen at the PAU Ponds. Little Pied Cormorant Phalacrocorax melanoleucos: A poor showing with just two individuals seen on the Kulu River on New Britain. ARDEIDAE Great-billed Heron Ardea sumatrana: An adult and a juvenile were flushed along the Elevala river. This enormous heron is seemingly always quite shy and a scarce species during this tour. Great Egret Egretta alba: Most numerous along the Fly and Elevala Rivers. Recent DNA work suggests a closer link with Ardea than Egretta. The species is sometimes placed in Ardea or, more frequently, in Casmerodius. Pied Heron Egretta picata: Good numbers and excellent views at the PAU ponds. This species seems to be mainly a visitor from Australia although some may breed in PNG. Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia: A number of widespread sightings in open habitats. Also known as Yellow-billed Egret, recent DNA work suggests that this species shows a closer link with Ardea rather than Egretta. Hence it is sometimes placed in Ardea, Egretta or more frequently in Mesophoyx or Casmerodius. Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus: Good numbers in the Port Moresby area. Sibley & Monroe acknowledge that McAllan and Bruce proposed coromandus as an allospecies in a paper in 1988 but this does not seem to have been widely accepted. Beehler and other authors including Clements lump this form in Western Cattle Egret B. ibis using the name Cattle Egret for the enlarged species. Little Egret Egretta garzetta (NL): John saw one along the Elevala River. Eastern Reef Egret Egretta sacra: Small numbers were seen in Kimbe Bay, New Britain. Striated Heron Ardeola striata (NL): Also known as Green-backed Heron, one was seen during the Fly River boat trip. The species is sometimes placed in the genus Butorides. Rufous Night Heron Nycticorax caledonicus: About six were noted at the PAU ponds and a few were seen on the roads at night on New Britain. Black Bittern Ixobrychus flavicollis: A juvenile was seen on the Elevala River. The species is sometimes placed in the genus Dupetor. THRESKIORNITHIDAE Australian Ibis Threskiornis molucca: Six were seen on the PAU ponds. Most birds occurring in PNG are probably migrants from Australia. Straw-necked Ibis Threskiornis spinicollis (NL): John squeezed in a last minute pair on Port Moresby airstrip as we were leaving the country! This is a dry season visitor to the area from Australia. 11 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

12 PANDIONIDAE [Beehler and other authors lump this family in Accipitridae.] Osprey Pandion haliaetus: Several were seen well in Kimbe Bay, New Britain. ACCIPITRIDAE Crested Hawk Aviceda subcristata: Also known as Pacific Baza, widespread sightings and some good views but perhaps most memorable was the first cosy pair at Kilometre 17. Long-tailed Buzzard Henicopernis longicauda: A number of widespread sightings from Varirata onwards. Also known as Long-tailed Honey Buzzard its recorded prey items include a variety of insects (also wasps), tree lizards, birds and bird eggs. This species is a member of a genus that is endemic to New Guinea and the Bismarck Archipelago and possesses a very distinctive jizz different from the other raptors. Bat Hawk Macheiramphus alcinus: A pair was seen at dawn at the Lesser BoP site. This was a writein for the trip and it seems to be a generally scarce bird in PNG. Black Kite Milvus migrans: This species was most common in the Mt Hagen area. Whistling Kite Haliastur sphenurus: Small numbers were seen around Port Moresby and Varirata. Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus: This handsome and distinctive raptor was seen well at locations throughout the tour. The name refers to Brahman the most absolute, abstract form of God in the Hindu religion. White-bellied Sea-eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster: One was seen on the Elevala River and another on the islands in Kimbe Bay, New Britain. Papuan Harrier Circus spilothorax: We had good views of a male at Tari Gap. Beehler and other authors including Clements lump the form concerned in Eastern (or Spotted) Marsh Harrier C. spilonotus this form has in turn been lumped in Western Marsh Harrier C. aeruginosus with the name Marsh Harrier being used for the enlarged species. However, Ferguson-Lees in Raptors of the World places the taxon with Swamp Harrier C. approximans and recommends that it is perhaps best treated as a separate species. If split it becomes a New Guinea endemic. Brown Goshawk Accipiter fasciatus: Also known as Australasian Goshawk one was seen perched below Kumul Lodge and another in the Tari Valley. Variable Goshawk Accipiter hiogaster: A number of widespread sightings included some very fine views. Interestingly the small birds seen on New Britain and ascribed to the race dampieri seem to show a variable half collar, more extensive in some individuals than others and a deep cherry red eye as opposed to the bright yellow cited in literature. Beehler and other authors lump this form in the larger Grey Goshawk A. novaehollandiae of Australia. Confusingly one or the other name seems to be used for the enlarged species! Black-mantled Goshawk Accipiter melanochlamys: Two excellent sightings in the Ambua area of this very handsome hawk. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Grey-headed Goshawk Accipiter poliocephalus (NL): Seen by Daniel along the Boystown Road and by Rita en route to Tabubil. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Doria s Hawk Megatriorchis doriae: We watched an individual low over our heads at Dablin Creek but this super view was later eclipsed by the stunning individual on its nest in Varirata National Park. This is a rarely seen and little-known New Guinea and Batanta Island endemic and we were indeed fortunate to get such views as these. This species is classified as Near-threatened by Birdlife International. Marchese Giacomo Doria ( ) was an Italian ornithologist who collected in Persia and Borneo. New Guinea Harpy Eagle Harpyopsis novaeguineae (H): A distant bird was heard one afternoon above Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. 12 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

13 FALCONIDAE Brown Falcon Falco berigora: Two were seen in the Lai Valley and at least two more in the Tari Valley. [Oriental/Australian Hobby Falco severus/longipennis sp: John and Nik saw an unidentified hobby from the bus in Port Moresby.] ANATIDAE Spotted Whistling Duck Dendrocygna guttata (NL): One was seen by Daniel at the PAU. This seems to be increasingly hard to find at this site perhaps due to habitat clearance around the ponds. Wandering Whistling Duck Dendrocygna arcuata: Numbers were way down on the ponds at the PAU with only about ten birds noted. Salvadori s Teal Anas waigiuensis: Two on our first and three on our second visit were scoped at Ok Menga and we were able to watch this strange duck feeding in the rapids of the river. The species is sometimes placed in the genus Salvadorina and it is endemic to New Guinea. The species is classified as Vulnerable by Birdlife International. The population is thought to number between 2,500-20,000 and declining due to hunting and habitat degradation. Conte Adelardo Tommaso Paleotti Salvadori ( ) was an eminent Italian physician and ornithologist. Pacific Black Duck Anas superciliosa: At least 15 birds were estimated on the ponds at the PAU and numbers were way down. We also saw one at the Kulu River on New Britain. MEGAPODIIDAE Melanesian Scrubfowl Megapodius eremita: Excellent views of this strange creature were obtained on New Britain and the visit to the burrows in Pokili Forest was most memorable. The species is endemic to the Bismarck Archipelago to the Solomon Islands. Black-billed Brush-turkey Talegalla fuscirostris (H): Also known as Yellow-legged Brush-turkey, as is normal this species was sadly only heard at Varirata NP and along the Elevala River. This species is endemic to New Guinea and Aru Island. PHASIANIDAE Brown Quail Coturnix australis (H): A poor result this year as we only heard the bird once at Tari Gap. TURNICIDAE Red-backed Button-quail Turnix maculosa: A pair was flushed from the airstrip at Kiunga and seen well in flight. RALLIDAE Buff-banded Rail Rallus philippensis: One was flushed from the airstrip at Kiunga. Chestnut Forest-rail Rallina rubra: A fantastic showing this year with a pair and their youngster visiting underneath the bird table at Kumul Lodge and another pair above Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Forbes s Forest-rail Rallina forbesi: Some of us saw this secretive species briefly in the forests above Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Henry Ogg Forbes ( ) was a Scottish explorer who retraced Wallace s path in the Moluccas. He made some ill-fated expeditions in New Guinea and was meteorological observer in Port Moresby. Rufous-tailed Bush-hen Amaurornis moluccanus (H): Heard in the Tabubil area but as is usual the birds were not seen. Dusky Moorhen Gallinula tenebrosa: At least 20 were seen well at the PAU ponds. 13 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

14 Australasian Swamphen Porphyrio melanotus: Also known as Black-backed Swamphen, at least 40 birds were on the ponds at the PAU. Not yet split by Clements but split by Sangster in 1998; Purple Swamp-hen is a complex of species Dutch Birding 20: JACANIDAE Comb-crested Jacana Irediparra gallinacea: Two pairs of these attractive lily-trotters were seen well at the PAU ponds and they had three juveniles between them. GLAREOLIDAE Australian Pratincole Stiltia isabella: Two were present on the Kiunga airstrip. CHARADRIIDAE Masked Lapwing Vanellus miles: This distinctive lapwing was common and easy to see at the PAU campus. Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva: One of these Palearctic migrants was seen on the Kiunga airstrip. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius: Three were seen well en route to Tabubil and another was on the airstrip there. Clements ignores this distinctive population but Mayr in 1938 split the race concerned from dubius as papuanus. Differences in plumage and voice further suggest that this form may be worthy of specific status but there does not appear to be any further work on this subject. Large Sand-plover Charadrius leschenaultii: Also known as Greater Sand Plover one of these Palearctic migrants was seen during our boat trip in Kimbe Bay. SCOLOPACIDAE Eurasian Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus: Two of these Palearctic migrants were seen during our boat trip in Kimbe Bay. Grey-tailed Tattler Tringa brevipes: Seven of these Palearctic migrants seen in flight during our boat trip in Kimbe Bay were presumed to be this species rather than the much rarer Wandering Tattler T. incanus. New Guinea Woodcock Scolopax rosenbergii: Two birds were seen at Kumul Lodge by all those who made the effort to look for them. Beehler and other authors including Clements lump the form concerned in Rufous or Dusky Woodcock S. saturata. However, it is split by Howard and Moore following Kennedy et al (2001) A new species of woodcock from the Philippines and a re-evaluation of other Asian/Papuasian woodcock. Forktail 17. STERNIDAE [Beehler and other authors lump this family in Laridae.] Common Tern Sterna hirundo: Good numbers of the form longipennis were seen during the Kimbe Bay boat trip. Phylogenetic analyses have been published which have proposed generic rearrangements that may affect this black-billed population of this taxon. Black-naped Tern Sterna sumatrana: Large numbers, most in pristine condition were seen in Kimbe Bay. Crested Tern Sterna bergii: Also known as Greater Crested Tern, we saw small numbers in Kimbe Bay. COLUMBIDAE Rock Pigeon Columba livia (NL): Feral birds only for some lucky participants in Mount Hagen. White-throated Pigeon Columba vitiensis: Also known as Metallic Pigeon, we had good flight views of a pair at Varirata National Park. 14 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

15 Yellow-legged Pigeon Columba pallidiceps: A pair was seen well in flight as we walked along the Tove Track. The birds were illuminated by a perfect early morning light and the paler heads and green iridescence were easily visible. This is a rarely recorded species on New Britain and it is endemic to the Bismarck Archipelago and Solomon Islands. Slender-billed Cuckoo-dove Macropygia amboinensis: A rather common dove recorded throughout the tour at lower elevations. Named after the island of Ambon (= Amboina) in Indonesia, it is also known as Brown Cuckoo-dove but this name is now used for M. phasianella of Australia. Black-billed Cuckoo-dove Macropygia nigrirostris: Also known as Bar-tailed Cuckoo-dove, we had numerous chances to see this species well with some excellent views obtained below Kumul. The species is endemic to New Guinea and the Bismarck Archipelago. Great Cuckoo-dove Reinwardtoena reinwardtii (H): Sadly this large dove was only heard at Ambua this year. Stephan s Ground-dove Chalcophaps stephani: Although this species was often glimpsed on the main island, we had to wait until New Britain in order to get some first class views of these pretty doves even feeding out in the open along the beaches. Honoré Jacquinot ( ) was a French surgeon serving onboard expeditions on the Coquille and the Astrolabe led by his brother, the explorer Vice-Admiral Charles Hector Jacquinot. Honoré collected the bird and he is believed to have asked Jacques Pucheran who described it in 1853 to name it after their father Étienne Stephan Jacquinot. New Guinea Bronzewing Henicophaps albifrons (NL): Daniel saw one along the Boystown Road. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Peaceful Dove Geopelia placida: Easy to see in the Port Moresby area. Bar-shouldered Dove Geopelia humeralis: Great views of a pair at the PAU ponds. Nicobar Pigeon Caloenas nicobarica: After flight views and a bird on the beach we ended up with excellent scope views of this strange and unique pigeon on the islands in Kimbe Bay, New Britain. This was a much-wanted bird and undoubtedly a highlight of the tour. The species is classified as Near-threatened by Birdlife International. It is threatened by hunting for food, predation by rats and cats and habitat clearance. The Nicobar Islands are part of India and are an island chain in the eastern Indian Ocean. Bronze Ground-dove Gallicolumba beccarii: Daniel saw one at Kumul Lodge and another was seen in flight at Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea and the Solomon Islands. White-bibbed Ground-dove Gallicolumba jobiensis: One was encouraged to fly back and forth across the trail in Pokili Forest. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Thick-billed Ground-pigeon Trugon terrestris (H): One was heard at Kilometre 17. This species is endemic to New Guinea but is notoriously difficult to see. Pheasant Pigeon Otidiphaps nobilis: Nothing could have prepared us for the amazing views that we had of this beautiful bird in Varirata National Park. We had spent a lot of time trying to get either one of two birds to respond to playback. They were always coming closer but always out of view. Suddenly one appeared on the track in front of us and prepared to walk purposefully towards us cocking and pumping the tail with every step. Eventually it passed within a few metres of us quite unconcerned by our presence. Magnificent and totally unforgettable. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Southern Crowned Pigeon Goura scheepmakeri: A fantastic showing this year along the Elevala River with a pair out on the waters edge although most of us only looked at the most obvious one that was in full view and totally unobscured. These incredible creatures looking like refugees from the 1960 s simply have got to be seen in order to be believed! Let s hope that Samuel s education work is succeeding in reducing the hunting rate. This species is endemic to New Guinea. This and the other two Goura allospecies are by far the largest 15 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

16 of the Pigeon family. All are restricted to alluvial forest, are heavily hunted and therefore treated as Vulnerable by Birdlife International. This tasty large pigeon is prized for its meat and it continues to be hunted despite being protected by law in PNG. The world population is estimated at less than 10,000. Wompoo Fruit-dove Ptilinopus magnificus: Also known as Magnificent Fruit-dove, we had scope views in Varirata National Park. The name is an onomatopoeic rendering of the call. Pink-spotted Fruit-dove Ptilinopus perlatus: Most commonly recorded in Varirata and the Kiunga area. Like most fruit-doves, good views were needed to really appreciate its beautiful plumage. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Orange-fronted Fruit-dove Ptilinopus aurantiifrons: Distant views of three of these most attractive doves coming into roost along the Lealea Road. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Superb Fruit-dove Ptilinopus superbus: Our only sightings of this wonderful fruit-dove that certainly lives up to its names were on the Elevala River, Ok Menga and Tove Track, New Britain. Beautiful Fruit-dove Ptilinopus pulchellus (H): A poor showing with only one heard at Kilometre 17. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. White-breasted Fruit-dove Ptilinopus rivoli: Also known as White-bibbed Fruit-dove, we had two great sightings. The first was the yellow-breasted form bellus at Ambua. In Pokili Forest on New Britain we saw the totally white-breasted nominate race. This species is endemic to the Moluccas and New Guinea. Orange-bellied Fruit-dove Ptilinopus iozonus: We managed very few sightings of this normally common fruit-dove in the Kiunga area but scope views were obtained. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Knob-billed Fruit-dove Ptilinopus insolitus: Also known as Red-knobbed Fruit-dove, we had good scope views of this colourful bird on New Britain. This species is endemic to the Bismarck Archipelago. Dwarf Fruit-dove Ptilinopus nanus: Just one of these tiny fruit-doves was seen flying over the Elevala River. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Red-knobbed Imperial Pigeon Ducula rubricera: Common and very easy to see on New Britain. This species is endemic to the Bismarck Archipelago. Purple-tailed Imperial Pigeon Ducula rufigaster: Superb scope views of these unobtrusive pigeons at Kilometre 17. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Finsch s Imperial Pigeon Ducula finschii: We had great scope views in Pokili Forest on New Britain. This species is endemic to the Bismarck Archipelago. Friedrich Hermann Otto Finsch ( ) was a German ethnographer and naturalist who travelled widely. He was appointed Imperial Commissioner for the German colony known as Kaiser-Wilhelmland that is now PNG. Rufescent Imperial Pigeon Ducula chalconota: Also known as Shining Imperial Pigeon, Nik saw one in flight at Kumul Lodge. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Grey Imperial Pigeon Ducula pistrinaria: Also called Island Imperial Pigeon this was a very common pigeon on the offshore islands in Kimbe Bay and a few were seen in Pokili Forest. This species is endemic to the Bismarck Archipelago and the Solomon Islands. Pinon Imperial Pigeon Ducula pinon: Only small numbers but seen well and even through the scope in the Kiunga area. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. The bird is named after L. Pinon, wife of French explorer Captain Louis Freycinet. Collared Imperial Pigeon Ducula mullerii: Exceedingly common along the Fly and Elevala River where they roost communally. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. 16 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

17 Zoe Imperial Pigeon Ducula zoeae: Best views of these handsome pigeons were obtained in Varirata National Park. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Zoë was the wife of the French naturalist and author René Lesson ( ) who described the pigeon in Torresian Imperial Pigeon Ducula spilorrhoa: Small numbers were seen flying over the PAU campus and in the Port Moresby area. The Spanish navigator Luis Vaez de Torres lent his name to the Torres Strait that separates Papua New Guinea from Australia. He discovered the passage in Yellow-tinted Imperial Pigeon Ducula subflavescens: Small numbers were seen well on New Britain. This taxon is split by D. Gibbs et al in Pigeons and Doves (2001). Clements lumps this form in Torresian Imperial Pigeon D. spilorrhoa and Howard and Moore lump both in Pied Imperial Pigeon D. bicolor. Papuan Mountain Pigeon Gymnophaps albertisii: Smaller numbers than usual were seen this tour with the biggest group over Ok Menga where were all the large flocks that normally fly over? A species somewhat inappropriately named as it occurs in the Trans-Fly lowlands. PSITTACIDAE Greater Streaked Lory Chalcopsitta scintillata: Good views in the Kiunga area where we were able to scope perched birds. This species is endemic to New Guinea and Aru Island. Rainbow Lorikeet Trichoglossus haematodus: A common and widespread lorikeet and a glorious bird seen well at various locations throughout the tour. We encountered two races during the tour, nigrogularis on the main island and massena on New Britain. The species awaits an extensive revision and it is highly likely that more than one species is involved within the complex. Goldie s Lorikeet Trichoglossus goldiei: A very large flock had gathered at the Lesser BoP site and we all had good scope views. This species is endemic to New Guinea and is sometimes placed in the genus Psittauteles. Andrew Goldie ( ) was a Scottish explorer and collector who lent his name to the Goldie River in New Guinea and discovered gold there. Eastern Black-capped Lory Lorius hypoinochrous: Also known as Purple-bellied Lory, this intensely coloured bird was common and easy to see on New Britain. This species is endemic to New Guinea and the Bismarck Archipelago. Western Black-capped Lory Lorius lory: This gloriously colourful bird was seen well at Varirata, Kiunga and Tabubil. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Red-flanked Lorikeet Charmosyna placentis: Flight views only in the Kiunga and Tabubil areas but we had excellent looks at perched birds on New Britain. Papuan Lorikeet Charmosyna papou: Good views of both colour morphs around Ambua and Kumul Lodge. This one was a real favourite with their vivid colours and remarkable long yellow tail streamers. The black morph especially is a real stunner! This species is endemic to New Guinea. Plum-faced Lorikeet Oreopsittacus arfaki: A poor showing for this species that is also known as Whiskered Lorikeet. Perched birds were seen below Kumul Lodge with a few more flight views at Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Yellow-billed Lorikeet Neopsittacus musschenbroekii: Good numbers were around Ambua where it proved easy to see. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Orange-billed Lorikeet Neopsittacus pullicauda: Just two were seen above Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. 17 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

18 Palm Cockatoo Probosciger aterrimus: A truly great bird with a good series of sightings of this eccentric looking, enormous-billed parrot. Great views of perched birds along the Elevala River. The cockatoos are sometimes placed in a separate family, Cacatuidae as in Clements and Handbook of Birds of the World. Sulphur-crested Cockatoo Cacatua galerita: This noisy bird was seen well at Varirata and in the Kiunga and Tabubil areas. The cockatoos are sometimes placed in a separate family, Cacatuidae as in Clements and Handbook of Birds of the World. Blue-eyed Cockatoo Cacatua ophthalmica: Excellent views of this noisy bird were obtained on New Britain. This species is endemic to the Bismarck Archipelago. The cockatoos are sometimes placed in a separate family, Cacatuidae as in Clements and Handbook of Birds of the World. Buff-faced Pygmy-parrot Micropsitta pusio: This tiny parrot was seen feeding on the branches of the large trees in Varirata National Park. This species is endemic to New Guinea, associated islands and the Bismarck Archipelago. Yellow-capped Pygmy-parrot Micropsitta keiensis: No more than little blips flying somewhere else fast in the Kiunga area. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Red-breasted Pygmy-parrot Micropsitta bruijnii: No more than little blips flying somewhere else fast at Ambua. Orange-breasted Fig-parrot Cyclopsitta gulielmitertii: This very attractive little parrot was particularly common and seen very well in the Kiunga and Tabubil areas. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Double-eyed Fig-parrot Cyclopsitta diopthalma: Small numbers of these pretty little parrots in the Kiunga area but never seen particularly well. Large Fig-parrot Psittaculirostris desmarestii: Brief but good flight views were obtained of a pair as we cruised down the Elevala River. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Brehm s Tiger-parrot Psittacella brehmii: The tame birds on the feeders at Kumul continued to delight. This is the commonest species in this genus but all four are very unobtrusive and easily overlooked. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Alfred Edmund Brehm ( ) was a German collector. Painted Tiger-parrot Psittacella picta (H): Frustratingly several were heard above Ambua but none would move into view. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Red-cheeked Parrot Geoffroyus geoffroyi: A very common and noisy lowland species easy to see in Varirata NP and in the Kiunga area. Blue-collared Parrot Geoffroyus simplex: Several flocks were seen flying high overhead in the Tabubil area but you had to be quick and sharp-eyed to pick them up. This wind chime bird is another of those parrots that never seem to land! This species is endemic to New Guinea. Singing Parrot Geoffroyus simplex: Also called Song Parrot, we saw two pairs but only in flight along the Tove Track on New Britain. This species is endemic to the Bismarck Archipelago. Eclectus Parrot Eclectus roratus: This splendidly common, stunningly colourful and frightfully noisy parrot was seen well in the Kiunga area and again on New Britain. The colours of the female are really quite incredible and indeed, she was once thought to be a separate species! Vulturine Parrot Psittrichas fulgidus: Also known as Pesquet s Parrot, we had some brief but good flight views along the Elevala River and again at Ok Menga. This species is endemic to New Guinea and is classified as Vulnerable by Birdlife International. The population is estimated at 42,000 and decreasing, the major threat being from hunting for its feathers that are used as ornamentation. It is not known who Pesquet was. 18 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

19 Papuan King-parrot Alisterus chloropterus: An excellent year for views of this colourful species in the Ambua area with the poser in the scope in the Tari Valley being particularly memorable. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Bismarck Hanging Parrot Loriculus tener: Also known as Green-fronted Hanging Parrot we obtained brief flight views of a pair disappearing fast along the Tove Track on New Britain. This species is endemic to the Bismarck Archipelago. CUCULIDAE Brush Cuckoo Cacomantis variolosus: Often heard throughout the tour and first seen well at Kiunga. More than 60 different host-species have been recorded for this cuckoo. Chestnut-breasted Cuckoo Cacomantis castaneiventris (H): Only heard at Ok Menga. Host-species for this cuckoo include scrub-wrens. Fan-tailed Cuckoo Cacomantis flabelliformis (H): Heard only at Ambua and Kumul Lodge. Hostspecies for this cuckoo include scrub-wrens. Shining Bronze-cuckoo Chrysococcyx lucidus: Sightings were obtained at Varirata, Dablin Creek, in the Lai Valley and in Pokili Forest on New Britain. This cuckoo is known to parasitize gerygones, fairy-wrens and robins. Rufous-throated Bronze-cuckoo Chrysococcyx ruficollis: One was seen well at Ambua. The host species are unknown and the species is endemic to New Guinea. White-eared Bronze-cuckoo Chrysococcyx meyerii: Nik saw one at Dablin Creek. The host species of this New Guinea endemic are still not known. White-crowned Koel Caliechthrus leucolophus (H): Often heard at Varirata and in the Tabubil area. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopacea: Presumably it was a male of this form that was seen on New Britain. Host species of the koel include crows, drongos, orioles and friarbirds. Australian Koel Eudynamys cyanocephala: No females were seen so we can only assume that this is the taxon that we encountered fairly commonly in the Kiunga area. The situation is confused as Beehler states that the rufiventer form of Asian Koel is not present in the Trans-Fly whereas Coates says it is. However, both authorities agree that cyanocephala is probably resident in this area and therefore even if a bird is heard calling it cannot rule out either of the species! Beehler and other authors lump this form in Asian Koel E. scolopacea with the name Common Koel being used for the enlarged species. Alternatively, it has been suggested that the black-billed populations of Sulawesi to the Moluccas known as Black-billed Koel E. melanorhynchus should include the resident New Guinea taxa. However, vocalisations of all forms of this complex species are very similar and the only differences appear to be in the plumage. The name koel that is given to this group of cuckoos is an onomatopoeic rendering of the call. Channel-billed Cuckoo Scythrops novaehollandiae: Small numbers of this monstrous cuckoo were seen along the Elevala River. At least 25 were seen on Kilu Ridge on New Britain with a maximum of 14 in one tree! Most, if not all individuals occurring in New Guinea are thought to be migrants from Australia. CENTROPODIDAE [Sibley and Monroe treat the coucals as a separate family but Beehler and other authors including Clements lump them in Cuculidae.] Violaceous Coucal Centropus violaceus: One of these large, bare-eyed coucals was seen very well in Pokili Forest on New Britain. The species is endemic to the Bismarck Archipelago. Greater Black Coucal Centropus menbeki: This huge coucal really made the trees shake at Kilometre 17. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. 19 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

20 Pied Coucal Centropus ateralbus: Great views of this two-tone coucal with the antiphonal song on the edge of Pokili Forest on New Britain. The species is endemic to the Bismarck Archipelago. Lesser Black Coucal Centropus bernsteini: Great views were obtained at Kilometre 17. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Pheasant Coucal Centropus phasianinus: Easily seen in the Port Moresby area. TYTONIDAE Sooty Owl Tyto tenebricosa: Also known as Greater Sooty Owl, Nik and Eka saw one along the Boystown Road but it could not be relocated. Later we were taken to see one in a garden in Tari Valley, but one can t help but feel sorry for the bird as it is rudely awakened from its slumbers for a stream of birders every season! STRIGIDAE Papuan Boobook Ninox theomacha: Also known as Jungle Hawk Owl Nik saw one at dusk at Ambua but we all got good daytime views of a roosting bird staring at us through its incredibly large round eyes in the Tari Valley. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. New Britain Boobook Ninox odiosa: We were pleased to have seen a shadowy shape in the torch beam at night near the Kulu River on New Britain but we were overjoyed to see the roosting bird through the scope in daylight in Pokili Forest. This species is endemic to New Britain. PODARGIDAE Marbled Frogmouth Podargus ocellatus: A trio were watched at their daytime roost in Varirata National Park. Papuan Frogmouth Podargus papuensis: A good showing this year with fantastic close-up views of a pair of these really bizarre birds roosting at the PAU campus with further individuals at Varirata and in the Tari Valley. AEGOTHELIDAE Barred Owlet-nightjar Aegotheles bennettii: Great scope views of a bird sat up poking its head out of its roost hole and glaring down at us angrily at Varirata National Park. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Mountain Owlet-nightjar Aegotheles albertisi (H): It was very disappointing that we only heard this species at Kumul Lodge this year particularly as Nik and Les tried extremely hard to see it. This species is endemic to New Guinea. CAPRIMULGIDAE Mountain Nightjar Eurostopodus archboldi: Also known as Archbold s Nightjar we had good looks at one sat in the torch beam above Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrourus: Seen well in the torch beam at Varirata. HEMIPROCNIDAE Moustached Tree-swift Hemiprocne mystacea: Always a firm favourite, this species by far the largest of this distinctive family certainly has a touch of class. The views that we had of them perched (with the aid of their non-reversible hind toes!) at numerous localities were much enjoyed. Only the males have the distinctive red cheek mark. 20 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

21 APODIDAE Uniform Swiftlet Collocalia vanikorensis: Generally common to abundant throughout the lower areas throughout the tour and often probably unjustifiably ignored! The species is sometimes placed in the genus Aerodramus. Mountain Swiftlet Collocalia hirundinacea: Good numbers were seen each day in the Ambua and Kumul areas. The species is sometimes placed in the genus Aerodramus and is endemic to New Guinea. White-rumped Swiftlet Collocalia spodiopygius: Small numbers were seen on New Britain. The species is sometimes placed in the genus Aerodramus. Glossy Swiftlet Collocalia esculenta: This shining swiftlet was seen at locations throughout the main island. Papuan Spine-tailed Swift Mearnsia novaeguineae: Also known as Papuan Needletail we had numerous opportunities to get good looks in the Kiunga area. ALCEDINIDAE [Sibley and Monroe place the Halcyon kingfishers in the family, Halcyonidae.] Common Paradise Kingfisher Tanysiptera galatea: Several of these elegant and beautiful kingfishers were heard calling along the Elevala River and after quite a battle we managed to see one of them very well. Little Paradise Kingfisher Tanysiptera hydrocharis (H): We heard one calling close by along the Elevala River but it refused to show. Also known as Aru Paradise Kingfisher it also occurs on the Aru Islands (although there have been no recent records from there) but is otherwise endemic to the Trans-Fly area of New Guinea. Classified as Data Deficient by Birdlife International. Brown-headed Paradise Kingfisher Tanysiptera danae: Two individuals were seen exceptionally well and with comparative ease in Varirata National Park. The pictures in the guide do not do this brilliant bird justice. This species is endemic to southeast New Guinea. Black-headed Paradise Kingfisher Tanysiptera nigriceps: It was not a good trip for kingfishers with many species relatively quiet and this one was no exception. However, with perseverance we saw this stunning kingfisher well in Pokili Forest on New Britain. This form is treated as an endemic species to the Bismarck Archipelago by Coates but is (as in Clements) sometimes lumped in Australian (Buff-breasted) Paradise Kingfisher T. sylvia. Hook-billed Kingfisher Melidora macrorrhina (H): Because of its nocturnal habits, this can be a notoriously difficult bird to see and in spite of all our efforts we failed to see this species this year. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Shovel-billed Kingfisher Clytoceyx rex (H): Also known as Shovel-billed Kookaburra and heard at Dablin Creek and Ok Menga but we were thwarted in our efforts to get to the Ok Ma road where it has been reliably seen during the past two years due to the broken bridge and a change of heart by the landowner. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Rufous-bellied Kookaburra Dacelo gaudichaud: This beautiful small kookaburra was seen well along the Elevala River. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Blue-winged Kookaburra Dacelo leachii: This huge kingfisher was seen very well at Varirata and along the Lealea Road. It also occurs in northern Australia. New Britain Kingfisher Halcyon albonotata (NL): Daniel and John saw one of these dapper kingfishers that are endemic to New Britain on one of the islands in Kimbe Bay. Also known as White-mantled Kingfisher the species is sometimes placed in the genus Todiramphus. Classified as Near-threatened by Birdlife International this species requires primary and tall secondary forest and it is threatened by habitat destruction. 21 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

22 Collared Kingfisher Halcyon chloris: Small numbers were seen on New Britain. The species is sometimes placed in the genus Todiramphus. Sacred Kingfisher Halcyon sancta: Scattered records of this non-breeding Australian migrant were obtained throughout the tour. The species is sometimes placed in the genus Todiramphus. Beach Kingfisher Halcyon saurophaga: We had good looks at one of these heavyweight kingfishers on one of the islands in Kimbe Bay. The species is sometimes placed in the genus Todiramphus. Yellow-billed Kingfisher Halcyon torotoro: We managed some great views of this attractive kingfisher at Varirata National Park. The scientific epithet is an onomatopoeic New Guinea aboriginal name for this species. The species is sometimes placed in the genus Syma. Mountain Kingfisher Halcyon megarhyncha (H): As is often the case, sadly only heard from Tabubil to Ambua. The species is sometimes placed in the genus Syma and is endemic to New Guinea. Azure Kingfisher Alcedo azurea: Three were seen along the Elevala River. This species also occurs in Australia. Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: Four sightings on New Britain. MEROPIDAE Rainbow Bee-eater Merops ornatus: This multicoloured bee-eater was most common and easy to see in the Moresby area, in the Lai Valley and again on New Britain. Most birds recorded in PNG are Australian migrants but a small population also breeds in the Port Moresby area. CORACIIDAE Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis: This distinctive bird was most common in the Kiunga area and was seen again on New Britain. Both resident birds of the race waigiouensis and Australian non-breeding migrants of the race pacificus occur in PNG. BUCEROTIDAE Blyth s Hornbill Rhyticeros plicatus: Also known as Papuan Hornbill, this magnificent bird with its evocative calls and whirring wings is always an indicator of big fruiting trees and low hunting levels. It is possible that we saw as many as 200 along the Elevala River during one boat trip. The species resurfaced on New Britain. Edward Blyth ( ) was an English zoologist and Curator of the Museum of the Asiatic Society of Bengal. PITTIDAE Blue-breasted Pitta Pitta erythrogaster: Also known as Red-bellied Pitta, only Peter managed to set eyes on a calling bird in Varirata National Park. The forms found on New Guinea have historically been treated as a separate species, P. macklotii. Hooded Pitta Pitta sordida (H): Mainly silent this year only calling briefly at dawn and dusk at Kilometre 17. The forms collectively known as Black-headed Pitta P. novaeguineae occurring on New Guinea may be worthy of specific status. HIRUNDINIDAE Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica: Widespread sightings usually in small numbers throughout the tour, especially around towns and airports. Tree Martin Hirundo nigricans: Singletons were seen at Kiunga airstrip and again on New Britain. This non-breeding migrant from Australia is sometimes placed in the genus Petrochelidon. 22 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

23 MOTACILLIDAE Australasian Pipit Anthus australis: A pair on Mt Hagen airstrip and a couple more at Tari Gap were the only ones seen. CAMPEPHAGIDAE Hooded Cuckoo-shrike Coracina longicauda (H): We heard them at Ambua but sadly they would not come close. This species is endemic to New Guinea. White-bellied Cuckoo-shrike Coracina papuensis: Small numbers were seen well at Varirata and again in the Lai Valley and on New Britain. Black-faced Cuckoo-shrike Coracina novaehollandiae: A few were seen in the Port Moresby area. Although a small population breeds in the Port Moresby area, this is mainly an Australian species migrating north to New Guinea savannahs. Stout-billed Cuckoo-shrike Coracina caeruleogrisea: Just flight views of a pair of these heavyweight cuckoo-shrikes at Yuk Creek. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Yellow-eyed Cuckoo-shrike Coracina lineata: Also known as Barred Cuckoo-shrike, we had great views of four in Varirata National Park. Boyer s Cuckoo-shrike Coracina boyeri: Small numbers were seen in Varirata National Park and the Kiunga and Tabubil areas. Joseph Emmanuel P. Boyer (1815-?) was a French sea captain who explored in the area with Dumont d Urville. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Cicadabird Coracina tenuirostris: Also known as Slender-billed Cicadabird, we saw individuals at Varirata and small numbers on New Britain. Some of the birds found on mainland New Guinea may all be non-breeding migrants from Australia and it is likely that more than one species hides within this complex. Black-shouldered Cicadabird Coracina incerta: Also known as Papuan Cuckoo-shrike, a pair was seen well in the Tari Valley. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Grey-headed Cuckoo-shrike Coracina schisticeps: A commonly encountered cuckoo-shrike in the Tabubil area. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Black Cuckoo-shrike Coracina melas: Also known as New Guinea Cuckoo-shrike we saw two males and three females in Varirata National Park. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Black-bellied Cuckoo-shrike Coracina montana: About six individuals were seen above Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Golden Cuckoo-shrike Campochaera sloetii: This beautiful but very unusual cuckoo-shrike has a plumage reminiscent of Golden Monarch. A pair was seen on the Elevala River with three more at Dablin Creek. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Varied Triller Lalage leucomela: Widespread sightings in small numbers but most numerous on New Britain. LANIIDAE Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach: We first saw the black-headed subspecies stresemanni in the Lai Valley. TURDIDAE Pied Chat Saxicola caprata: We only saw this species in the highlands where it was common in the grasslands and fields. It has been suggested that the populations of New Guinea and the Bismarck Archipelago be split as a separate species, Black Bushchat S. aethiops. Some authors (including Clements) place the genus Saxicola in the family Muscicapidae. 23 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

24 Island Thrush Turdus poliocephalus: Looking rather like Blackbirds, they were easiest to see at Kumul Lodge where it was a visitor to the bird feeder. The taxonomy of this diverse species is highly complex with at least 49 subspecies having been described for this widespread bird, usually from the highest mountains or the smallest islands. ORTHONYCHIDAE New Guinea Logrunner Orthonyx novaeguineae: Always very close as they ran circles around us at Ambua but we all managed to get great views of this often elusive species. Now usually a widely accepted split from the Australian O. temminckii, Clements names them Northern and Southern Logrunners, but New Guinea Logrunner sounds more special! This species is endemic to New Guinea. CINCLOSOMATIDAE [Beehler lumps this family in Orthonychidae.] Painted Quail-thrush Cinclosoma ajax (H): Exasperatingly close at times but we only heard calling birds amongst the dense undergrowth in Varirata National Park. This superbly marked mega-skulker is endemic to New Guinea. EUPETIDAE [Beehler lumps this family in Orthonychidae.] Spotted Jewel-babbler Ptilorrhoa leucosticta: Good views of this beautiful skulker if you were lucky and in the right place at Ambua where it ran past us. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Blue Jewel-babbler Ptilorrhoa caerulescens: In the end most of the group managed some sort of view of this extremely attractive species in the Kiunga area. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Chestnut-backed Jewel-babbler Ptilorrhoa castanonota: Most people got some sort of view of this very difficult species in Varirata National Park and heard it again in the Tabubil area. Jewel-babblers are notoriously shy, and this one certainly lived up to their reputation again this year. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. INCERTAE SEDIS [Great mystery surrounds the correct taxonomic treatment of these rather special species. Beehler places them in Orthonychidae but Sibley & Monroe and Clements treat the melampittas as terrestrial Birds of Paradise, Paradisaeidae and places the Ifrita in Eupetidae/Cinclosomatidae. Howard and Moore treat them as Incertae Sedis.] Lesser Melampitta Melampitta lugubris: The distinctive clicking calls alerted us to this species presence below Kumul Lodge and again at Tari Gap and pretty good views were obtained for all. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Blue-capped Ifrita Ifrita kowaldi: Excellent views of these beautiful but poisonous birds at Ambua. The highest levels of poisons (batrachotoxins) are generally present in the contour feathers of belly, breast and legs. These same toxins are found in most of the pitohuis and in neotropical frogs of the genus Phyllobates. However, it seems (inexplicably) that not all individuals or indeed populations of ifritas and pitohuis are poisonous and the reason for the presence of these toxins has not yet been discovered. The species uncertain taxonomic position (perhaps even a monotypic family?) is also reflected in the species scientific name, as ifrit is an Arabic word for spirit. This species is endemic to New Guinea. 24 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

25 POMATOSTOMATIDAE Rufous Babbler (New Guinea Babbler) Pomatostomus isidorei: Also known as Isidore s Rufous Babbler, these rather shy and restless endemics were seen along the Elevala River and at Kilometre 17. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands and is sometimes placed in the genus Garritornis. Isidore Geoffroy Saint Hilaire ( ) was a zoologist who continued with his father s (Étienne) work and professorships. SYLVIIDAE Australian Reed-warbler Acrocephalus australis: One was seen well from the Check-in hall at Port Moresby! Papuan Grassbird Megalurus macrurus: Seen well at Ambua. Beehler (and Clements) lump this form in Tawny Grassbird M. timoriensis but if split as in Howard and Moore then this species is endemic to New Guinea and the Bismarck Archipelago. Island Leaf-warbler Phylloscopus poliocephalus: Several were seen well below Kumul Lodge, showing off their prominent supercilia and faint coronal stripes and again in the Tari Valley. MALURIDAE Emperor Fairy-wren Malurus cyanocephalus: We had some terrific views of a pretty pair along the Boystown Road. This surely is a real gem of a bird and that electric blue has really got to be seen to be believed. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. White-shouldered Fairy-wren Malurus alboscapulatus: Our first good views of this striking fairy-wren were obtained at Dablin Creek. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Orange-crowned Fairy-wren Clytomyias insignis: At least a pair (there may have been more) of these skulking birds was seen very well at Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. ACANTHIZIDAE Rusty Mouse-warbler Crateroscelis murina: Also known as Lowland Mouse-Warbler we heard its variable song often and first managed to get some views at Kilometre 17. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Mountain Mouse-warbler Crateroscelis robusta: Often heard and we managed views of this secretive species at Kumul and Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Large Scrub-wren Sericornis nouhuysi: Regularly recorded at Kumul and Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Buff-faced Scrub-wren Sericornis perspicillatus: Great views were obtained at Kumul and Ambua. When seen well, this is quite a distinctive and attractive scrub-wren! This species is endemic to New Guinea. Papuan Scrub-wren Sericornis papuensis: Regular encounters with this very vocal bird in the mossy forests around Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Yellow-bellied Gerygone Gerygone chrysogaster: The field guide gives the following splendidly appropriate comment: One of the annoyingly common songs of the lowland forest interior and it is certainly heard far more often than it is seen. Fortunately, we first saw the bird well and quite quickly in a bird party in Varirata National Park and so could then just enjoy the song. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. The word gerygone is derived from the Greek gerugonos, meaning echoes (geruo, to sing; gone, a child), referring to the thin, plaintive song of these birds. Green-backed Gerygone Gerygone chloronotus: Regularly heard singing in Varirata National Park where it was also first seen. Fairy Gerygone Gerygone palpebrosa: We managed to get good views of these pretty birds in bird parties in Varirata National Park where they were seemingly more numerous than usual. 25 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

26 Large-billed Gerygone Gerygone magnirostris: One was seen along the Elevala River. Brown-breasted Gerygone Gerygone ruficollis: Also known as Treefern Gerygone small numbers were seen in the Kumul and Ambua areas. This species is endemic to New Guinea. RHIPIDURIDAE Sooty Thicket-fantail Rhipidura threnothorax: Heard more often than it was seen but some of our group saw this skulking bird in Varirata National Park. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. White-bellied Thicket-fantail Rhipidura leucothorax: This notorious skulker was seen by all at Ok Menga as it dashed to and fro across the road. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Rufous-backed Fantail Rhipidura rufidorsa: Amazingly close views of a confiding bird at Kilometre 17. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Dimorphic Fantail Rhipidura brachyrhyncha: We had some excellent close views of this sometimes rather scarce high-altitude species in the Kumul and Ambua areas. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Black Fantail Rhipidura atra: Small numbers of this strikingly, sexually dimorphic fantail were seen at Dablin Creek and again at Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Chestnut-bellied Fantail Rhipidura hyperythra: Several of these charming fantails were seen in mixed flocks in Varirata National Park. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Friendly Fantail Rhipidura albolimbata: Common and very easy to see, often living up to its name in the Kumul and Ambua areas. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Northern Fantail Rhipidura rufiventris: Easy to see at Dablin Creek and again on New Britain. This widespread species can also be found from the Lesser Sundas to Australia. Willie Wagtail Rhipidura leucophrys: This ubiquitous tail-waving bird was a familiar sight during the tour and was seen regularly in all open habitats. MONARCHIDAE Black Monarch Monarcha axillaris: This Black Fantail look-alike was seen well at Kumul and Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Island Monarch Monarcha cinerascens: This attractive tramp species was seen on the islands in Kimbe Bay. This species is endemic to New Guinea and the Solomon Islands. Spot-winged Monarch Monarcha guttula: Sightings of this handsome species were obtained in Varirata National Park and the Kiunga area. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Black-tailed Monarch Monarcha verticalis: Also known as Bismarck Pied Monarch we saw a very active pair in Pokili Forest. This species is endemic to the Bismarck Archipelago. Hooded Monarch Monarcha manadensis: It took a bit of work but some of us got views of one on the Elevala River. It would seem that the pied monarchs are notably shyer than other monarchs. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Golden Monarch Monarcha chrysomela: A male showed well in Varirata National Park. This species is endemic to New Guinea and the Bismarck Archipelago. Frilled Monarch Arses telescopthalmus: A most strikingly attractive bird seen well in Varirata NP and the Kiunga area. The Australian form lorealis has been split by Clements and other authors thus leaving the present taxon endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Leaden Flycatcher Myiagra rubecula: Several were observed at the entrance to Varirata National Park. Migrants from Australia sporadically augment the resident population. Shining Flycatcher Myiagra alecto: Regularly sighted along the Fly and Elevala rivers and a small number were seen on New Britain. Typically, a waterside species, but it also occurs in gardens and thickets. 26 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

27 MACHAERIRHYNCHIDAE [Treated as a family by Howard and Moore but Beehler and Clements lump this genus in Monarchidae.] Yellow-breasted Boatbill Machaerirhynchus flaviventer: A female was seen in Varirata National Park. Black-breasted Boatbill Machaerirhynchus nigripectus: This attractive bird was seen well at Kumul and Ambua. This most striking species is endemic to New Guinea. PETROICIDAE [Beehler uses the name Eopsaltriidae for this family.] Torrent Flycatcher Monachella muelleriana: These dapper birds were much enjoyed at Ok Menga and in the Lai Valley. This species is endemic to New Guinea and the Bismarck Archipelago. Lemon-bellied Flycatcher Microeca flavigaster: Singletons were seen well in Varirata National Park and again at Dablin Creek. Canary Flycatcher Microeca papuana: These tiny bright yellow birds were easy to see in the Kumul and Ambua areas. This species is endemic to New Guinea. White-faced Robin Tregellasia leucops: A good showing this year with three birds seen very well in Varirata National Park. This pretty bird just slips across into the Cape York area of Australia. Garnet Robin Eugerygone rubra: Heard at Kumul but both a male and a female of this diminutive robin were seen well at Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Ashy Robin Poecilodryas albispecularis (H): As usual this mega-skulker (where does it hide?) was only heard at Ambua. It is said to be vocally distinct from the Grey-headed Robin P. cinereifrons of Queensland, Australia that is now re-split by Christidis and Boles (2008) as a separate species (although this has not yet been recognised by Clements and other authors) leaving the present form endemic to New Guinea. The species is sometimes placed in the genus Heteromyias. Black-sided Robin Poecilodryas hypoleuca: Also known as Black-bibbed Robin, it was a bit of a struggle but everyone had good views of one along the Boystown Road. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Black-throated Robin Poecilodryas albonotata: One for Nik at Kumul but we all managed to see it well at Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Northern Scrub-robin Drymodes superciliaris: Unfortunately most of us only heard this skulker in Varirata National Park but Peter and Hilary got lucky. Lesser Ground-robin Amalocichla incerta: We had extremely close views of a pair hopping in circles around us below Kumul. This species is endemic to New Guinea. White-winged Robin Peneothello sigillatus: A species that is easy to see at Kumul Lodge where it was a garden visitor and again at Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. White-rumped Robin Peneothello bimaculatus: This robin was once again difficult to see at Dablin Creek but most people got reasonable views. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Blue-grey Robin Peneothello cyanus: Very showy birds were seen at Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. PACHYCEPHALIDAE Dwarf Whistler Pachycare flavogrisea: Also known as Goldenface we had splendid views of this delightful little whistler in Varirata National Park. This species is endemic to New Guinea. 27 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

28 Mottled Whistler Rhagologus leucostigma: A male was seen feeding on berries on a trail below Kumul but unfortunately not everyone saw him. Another was heard at Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Mangrove Golden Whistler Pachycephala melanura: Also known as Black-tailed Whistler, we managed to see several of these attractive birds on the islands in Kimbe Bay, New Britain. Sclater s Whistler Pachycephala soror: First seen below Kumul Lodge with more at Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Dr Philip Lutley Sclater ( ) and his son William ( ) were British ornithologists who between them described no fewer than 913 species. It is not clear which one of them this whistler was named after. Regent Whistler Pachycephala schlegelii: The male is a stunning bird and we had several chances to see this species well in the Kumul Lodge area and again at Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Grey-headed Whistler Pachycephala griseiceps: Small numbers of this unassuming species were seen in Varirata National Park. Beehler lumps this form, together with the east Australian population, in Brown Whistler P. simplex of northern Australia, with the name Grey Whistler being used for the enlarged species. Rusty Whistler Pachycephala hyperythra: One showed briefly at Dablin Creek for Nik and Peter. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Brown-backed Whistler Pachycephala modesta: This chunky bird was strangely scarce at Ambua this year with astonishingly only one sighting. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Black-headed Whistler Pachycephala monacha: Two singing males were seen well in the Lai Valley. This species is endemic to New Guinea. White-bellied Whistler Pachycephala leucogastra: A singing male showed well for us at Varirata. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands although Beehler lumps it with the Australian Rufous Whistler P. rufiventris. Rufous-naped Whistler Pachycephala rufinucha: This rather skulking and attractive whistler was easily seen at Kumul Lodge where it was a garden bird and again at Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. COLLURICINCLIDAE [Beehler lumps this family in Pachycephalidae.] Little Shrike-thrush Colluricincla megarhyncha: Also known as Rufous Shrike-thrush, a few of these fairly common but unobtrusive birds were seen at widespread locations in New Guinea. Like the Ifrita and the pitohuis this bird can also contain traces of poison. Grey Shrike-thrush Colluricincla harmonica: A pair was seen well at the PAU ponds and another showy bird was seen in the Lai Valley. Variable Pitohui Pitohui kirhocephalus: Eventually everyone got good views at Kilometre 17. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Along with Hooded Pitohui it is the most poisonous of the group. Hooded Pitohui Pitohui dichrous: Easily seen at Varirata and in the Tabubil area. This species is endemic to New Guinea. White-bellied Pitohui Pitohui incertus: Four were seen along the Elevala river but were rather retiring and not particularly easy to get on to. As with the Little Paradise-Kingfisher, it is known from only two tiny areas in New Guinea (although it may prove to be widespread across the Trans-Fly) and is treated as Near Threatened by Birdlife International. It is strangely the only non-poisonous pitohui. Rusty Pitohui Pitohui ferrugineus: Seen briefly in Varirata National Park and heard at Kilometre Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

29 Crested Pitohui Pitohui cristatus: A singing individual was actually seen briefly by some of the group in a bird party in Varirata National Park and Daniel saw one at Dablin Creek. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Black Pitohui Pitohui nigrescens: Views for some of us in Varirata National Park. This species is endemic to New Guinea. FALCUNCULIDAE [Beehler and Clements lump this family in Pachycephalidae.] Wattled Ploughbill Eulacestoma nigropectus: Excellent views of a male sporting his bizarre pink wattles at Ambua. This incredible bird is endemic to New Guinea and is elevated to family status along with the Australian shrike-tits by Birdlife International and Howard and Moore. NEOSITTIDAE Papuan Sittella Daphoenositta papuensis: We had two chances to see flocks of this species well at Ambua. Beehler lumps this form in Varied Sittella D. chrysoptera but if split as in Howard and Moore this becomes a New Guinea endemic. Black Sittella Daphoenositta miranda: A pair of these dapper little birds was seen at Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. MELANOCHARITIDAE [Beehler lumps this family in Dicaeidae.] Obscure Berrypecker Melanocharis arfakiana: We obtained two good sightings at both Dablin and Yuk Creeks. Although not much to look at this is one of the least known birds in PNG. This species and indeed this family as a whole are endemic to New Guinea and associated islands and is classified as Data Deficient by Birdlife International. Black Berrypecker Melanocharis nigra: A good showing this year with small numbers seen in Varirata National Park and at Kilometre 17. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Mid-mountain Berrypecker Melanocharis longicauda: Also known as Lemon-breasted Berrypecker, we had excellent views of a female at Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Fan-tailed Berrypecker Melanocharis versteri: This species was easy to see around Kumul Lodge and at Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. DICAEIDAE Red-capped Flowerpecker Dicaeum geelvinkianum: We obtained a number of good observations throughout our time on the main island. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Red-banded Flowerpecker Dicaeum eximium: Small numbers were seen on New Britain. This species is endemic to the Bismarck Archipelago. PARAMYTHIIDAE [Beehler lumps this family in Dicaeidae.] Tit Berrypecker Oreocharis arfaki: We all had some excellent views of this highly attractive species at Ambua. The males look like a gorgeously mutated Great Tit and this species is endemic to New Guinea. Crested Berrypecker Paramythia montium: Rather sparse this year but we had ample chances to see this amazing species well both at Kumul Lodge and at Ambua. This is another striking and unique species in a family endemic to New Guinea. 29 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

30 NECTARINIDAE Black Sunbird Nectarinia aspasia: A common bird and easily seen in suitable habitat. In line with a recent reorganisation of the family, the scientific name has been changed to Leptocoma sericea. Yellow-bellied Sunbird Nectarinia jugularis: Just one individual was seen on one of the islands in Kimbe Bay, New Britain. ZOSTEROPIDAE Black-fronted White-eye Zosterops minor: Seen well in Varirata National Park and again at Dablin Creek with good views allowing us to see the blackish forehead. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Western Mountain White-eye Zosterops fuscicapilla: Small numbers were seen well in Tari Valley. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. New Guinea White-eye Zosterops novaeguineae: Common and easy to see below Kumul Lodge. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. MELIPHAGIDAE Long-billed Honeyeater Melilestes megarhynchus: Glimpsed at Kilometre 17 but seen well at Ok Menga and in The Tari Valley. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Yellow-bellied Longbill Toxorhamphus novaeguineae: Seen quite well at Kilometre 17 although you had to be quick to get onto them. Although Beehler treats this species as a honeyeater, other authors including Clements and Howard and Moore place it with the berrypeckers in the family Melanocharitidae. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Dwarf Honeyeater Oedistoma iliolophus: Also known as Plumed Longbill we saw this rather unobtrusive species in Varirata National Park. Although Beehler treats this species as a honeyeater, other authors including Clements and Howard and Moore place it with the berrypeckers in the family Melanocharitidae. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Pygmy Honeyeater Oedistoma pygmaeum: This is the smallest New Guinea bird and we saw one below Kumul Lodge. Also known as Pygmy Longbill, Beehler treats this species as a honeyeater other authors including Clements and Howard and Moore place it with the berrypeckers in the family Melanocharitidae. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Red-throated Myzomela Myzomela eques: First seen through the scope in the flowering tree along the Boystown Road. This species is endemic to New Guinea and the Bismarck Archipelago. Ashy Myzomela Myzomela cineracea: Small numbers of these undistinguished honeyeaters were seen well on New Britain. This species is endemic to the Bismarck Archipelago. Papuan Black Myzomela Myzomela nigrita: Small numbers were seen at Varirata and in the Tabubil area. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Mountain Red-headed Myzomela Myzomela adolphinae: A good showing with two in Varirata National Park, more in the Lai Valley and even one at Tari airstrip. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Black-bellied Myzomela Myzomela erythromelas: Small numbers were seen well on New Britain. This species is endemic to the Bismarck Archipelago. Red-collared Myzomela Myzomela rosenbergii: This striking bird was present in small numbers at Kumul Lodge and again at Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. 30 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

31 Sclater s Myzomela Myzomela sclateri: Small numbers were seen on the islands in Kimbe Bay, New Britain. This species is endemic to offshore islands of New Guinea and the Bismarck Archipelago. A number of species have been named after either father or son of the same name. Dr Philip Sclater ( ) was a British ornithologist and founder of the scientific journal The Ibis. His son William Lutley Sclater ( ) followed in his father s footsteps. Mountain Meliphaga Meliphaga orientalis: Easily seen at Dablin Creek, below Kumul Lodge and in Tari Valley. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Scrub White-eared Meliphaga Meliphaga albonotata: Several seen in the Kiunga and Tabubil areas. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Mimic Meliphaga Meliphaga analoga: The Meliphaga honeyeaters are surely the most difficult New Guinea species complex to identify. They share features and vocalisations and there seems to be no reliable criteria for identification! Most meliphagas went unidentified but we presumed that this was the common species at Varirata and in the Kiunga area. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Graceful Meliphaga Meliphaga gracilis: A couple were identified at Varirata. It is thought that more than one species may be involved in this cryptic complex. Yellow-tinted Honeyeater Lichenostomus flavescens: Two were seen in our hotel garden in Port Moresby and a few more were along the Lealea Road. A species also found in northern Australia. Black-throated Honeyeater Lichenostomus subfrenatus: Small numbers were seen at Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Obscure Honeyeater Lichenostomus obscurus (H): A secretive species that refused to show along the Boystown Road. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Spotted Honeyeater Xanthotis polygramma: Two of these very attractive honeyeaters were seen at Yuk Creek. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Tawny-breasted Honeyeater Xanthotis flaviventer: A common honeyeater and easy to see in the Kiunga and Tabubil areas. White-throated Honeyeater Melithreptus albogularis: Several of these attractive birds were found in the savannah below Varirata National Park but they were always very active and never stayed around for long. Plain Honeyeater Pycnopygius ixoides: This honeyeater lived up to its name but showed well for us in the Kiunga area. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Marbled Honeyeater Pycnopygius cinereus: Heard below Kumul and seen well in the Tari Valley. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Streak-headed Honeyeater Pycnopygius stictocephalus: Good views were obtained along the Boystown Road and at Ok Menga. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Meyer s Friarbird Philemon meyeri: Good scope views of this rather dowdy looking honeyeater in the flowering tree along the Boystown Road. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Dr Adolf Bernard Meyer ( ) was a German anthropologist and ornithologist collecting in the East Indies. New Guinea Friarbird Philemon novaeguineae: This strange-looking bird is a noisy species and its calls were one of the prominent features of the sounds of the lowlands. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. New Britain Friarbird Philemon cockerelli: Small numbers were seen well on New Britain. This species is endemic to the Bismarck Archipelago. Rufous-backed Honeyeater Ptiloprora guisei: Small numbers were seen at Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. 31 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

32 Grey-streaked Honeyeater Ptiloprora perstriata: Also known as Black-backed Honeyeater, this altitudinal replacement of the very similar previous species was seen at Kumul Lodge and Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Belford s Melidectes Melidectes belfordi: This very noisy, common and showy species became a familiar companion in the forests around Kumul Lodge and above Ambua. George Belford (died 1906) was the son of a Samoan chief who collected for Sir William McGregor, the Administrator and Lieutenant Governor of British New Guinea. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Yellow-browed Melidectes Melidectes rufocrissalis: This really striking species was first seen below Kumul and also took over at lower elevations around and below Ambua where hybrids with Belford s were also suspected. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Ornate Melidectes Melidectes torquatus: This very attractive honeyeater was first seen at Yuk Creek but it was far more common and easy to see at the Lesser BoP site. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Common Smoky Honeyeater Melipotes fumigatus: This was an extremely common bird all around the Kumul and Ambua areas. The colour of the eye-patch varies strangely, presumably with its mood and can flush bright red. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Rufous-banded Honeyeater Conopophila albogularis: A couple of these honeyeaters were seen at the PAU ponds. This species is also found in northern Australia. ESTRILDIDAE Hooded Mannikin Lonchura spectabilis: Common and easy to see in the Lai Valley and the Ambua area. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Buff-bellied Mannikin Lonchura melaena: A small number were scoped on New Britain. This species is endemic to New Britain and the Solomon Islands. Mountain Firetail Oreostruthus fuliginosus: Great views of ones and twos of these chunky little finches at Kumul Lodge and Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. PASSERIDAE House Sparrow Passer domesticus: Small numbers in the Port Moresby area, where it was first noticed in Luckily and perhaps unusually, PNG has just three other introduced species: Feral Pigeon, Indian Myna and Eurasian Tree Sparrow. STURNIDAE Singing Starling Aplonis cantoroides: Just two were seen at Hoskins airport on New Britain. Metallic Starling Aplonis metallica: Also known as Shining Starling, this was a very common species in the lowlands around Kiunga and again on New Britain. Golden Myna Mino anais: Small numbers were seen along the Elevala River but they offered good views. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Yellow-faced Myna Mino dumontii: This noisy bird was commonly seen at Varirata and in the Kiunga and Tabubil areas. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Long-tailed Myna Mino kreffti: Good views were obtained on New Britain. This species is endemic to New Britain and the Solomon Islands. ORIOLIDAE Brown Oriole Oriolus szalayi: This rather drab oriole was easy to see at Varirata and in the Kiunga and Tabubil areas. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Green Figbird Sphecotheres viridis: Good numbers of these colourful birds were seen well at the PAU ponds. 32 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

33 DICRURIDAE Mountain Drongo Chaetorhynchus papuensis: Also known as Papuan or Pygmy Drongo, one was seen well in a bird party in Varirata National Park. Spangled Drongo Dicrurus hottentotus: Regularly observed from Varirata, Kiunga and Tabubil areas. GRALLINIDAE Torrent-lark Grallina bruijni: An excellent showing this year of this usually rather shy but striking species. Our best views were of a very obliging pair at Dablin Creek, a female was seen at Ok Menga and another pair at Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea and shares both its genus and family with the confiding Magpie-Lark of Australian frontlawns. However, some taxonomists place both species in the family Monarchidae. ARTAMIDAE White-breasted Woodswallow Artamus leucorhynchus: Easily seen around Port Moresby. Great Woodswallow Artamus maximus: These smart birds were first seen at Tabubil but remained with us throughout the highlands. This species is endemic to New Guinea. CRACTICIDAE Hooded Butcherbird Cracticus cassicus: Regular sightings of this species with its rich and complex voice at Varirata and in the Kiunga area. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Black-backed Butcherbird Cracticus mentalis: A few were seen at Varirata and at the PAU ponds. Black Butcherbird Cracticus quoyi: A brief flight view of one at Tabubil was bettered by showy birds in the Tari Valley. Lowland Peltops Peltops blainvillii: Good views were obtained from the boat along the Elevala River. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Mountain Peltops Peltops montanus: Virtually identical to Lowland Peltops but for voice. Small numbers were seen well in the Tabubil area and at Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. PTILONORHYNCHIDAE White-eared Catbird Ailureodus buccoides: One was glimpsed by some of us in Varirata National Park. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Spotted Catbird Ailureodus melanotis (H): One was heard at Kilometre 17. Sanford s Bowerbird Archboldia sanfordi: This species was a regular if somewhat shy visitor to the bird table at Kumul Lodge this year. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Leyland Cutler Sanford ( ) was an American zoologist. Flame Bowerbird Sericulus aureus: A dazzling male was seen flying across the Elevala River and two males and a female were seen along the Boystown road. This wonderful bird is certainly a strong contender for having the brightest plumage of any bird in the world! This species is endemic to New Guinea. Yellow-breasted Bowerbird Chlamydera lauterbachi: Rather poor views in the Lai Valley. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Fawn-breasted Bowerbird Chlamydera cerviniventris: Easy to see with good views obtained at Varirata and at the PAU campus. 33 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

34 CNEMOPHILIDAE [Beehler lumps this family in Paradisaeidae. They are now known as Satin Birds rather than Birds of Paradise.] Crested Bird of Paradise Cnemophilus macgregorii: Now becoming known as Crested Satinbird, this unobtrusive species can easily be overlooked and we only had poor views of a female this year at Kumul Lodge. This species is endemic to New Guinea. The taxonomic relationships of the members of this family are not fully understood. Once thought to be more closely related to the bowerbirds this appears now to not be the case and their closest relatives may in fact be cuckoo-shrikes. Loria s Bird of Paradise Cnemophilus loriae: Now known as Loria s Satinbird, we had scope views of a female at Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Dr Lamberto Loria ( ) was an Italian ethnologist who collected in New Guinea. PARADISAEIDAE Glossy-mantled Manucode Manucodia atra: Some good views were obtained along the Elevala River. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Crinkle-collared Manucode Manucodia chalybeata: We had some excellent views of two at Varirata. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Trumpet Manucode Manucodia keraudrenii: Only two sightings in the Kiunga area but many more were heard. Short-tailed Paradigalla Paradigalla brevicauda: Three sightings of this strange bird of paradise in the Ambua area. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Magnificent Riflebird Ptiloris magnificus: A female was seen by some at Ok Menga as it flew away from a fruiting tree. This seems to be a very shy BoP! Eastern Riflebird Ptiloris intercedens: Also appropriately known as Growling Riflebird some of us managed to get brief views of a female in Varirata NP. Beehler lumps this form in Magnificent Riflebird P. magnificus but the vocalisations are very distinct. Split in Howard and Moore but not in Clements makes this taxon yet another that is endemic to New Guinea. Twelve-wired Bird of Paradise Seleucidis melanoleuca: A poor showing with only one immature male seen running up and down his pole during the boat trip along the Fly River. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Black Sicklebill Epimachus fastuosus: It took two attempts but we got him but in the end the reward was an early morning view of a full plumaged male sat upon his advertising tree. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Brown Sicklebill Epimachus meyeri: First seen at Kumul Lodge this wonderful bird was a familiar sight at the feeding station where even a fine male came to visit and announced his presence with the very distinctive and far carrying machinegun-rattle cry. Less impressive views were obtained in the moss-festooned trees above Ambua. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Ribbon-tailed Astrapia Astrapia mayeri: Easy to see at the feeding station at Kumul Lodge and in the high forests at Ambua. Mostly female or immature birds were noted but we also had great looks at some fantastic full plumaged males at Tari Gap. Fully grown, these are proportionally the longest tail streamers of any bird in the world. Restricted to a small area of PNG, this was the last BoP species to be discovered, after its ribbons were found in a headdress. Classified as Near-threatened by Birdlife International, this species is probably mainly threatened through habitat destruction and hunting for its feathers. 34 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

35 Stephanie s Astrapia Astrapia stephaniae: Both the males with their spatulate-shaped central tailfeathers and less well-endowed females were seen at Ambua. Princess Stephanie of Belgium ( ) was the young wife of an unfaithful Prince Rudolf of Austria- Hungary. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Superb Bird of Paradise Lophorina superba: Females were seen at Dablin Creek but we had to wait until Kumul to see a male spreading out his strange fan-like iridescent collars. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Carola s Parotia Parotia carolae (H): We tried very hard but we only succeeded in hearing this species at Yuk Creek. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Queen Carola of Saxony ( ) was the wife of King Albert of Saxony. Lawes s Parotia Parotia lawesii: We saw a female and an immature male in one of the gardens in Tari Valley. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Reverend William George Lawes ( ) was a British missionary working in New Guinea. King of Saxony Bird of Paradise Pteridophora alberti: Above Ambua we witnessed advertising birds singing their strange crackling songs and twirling their unique head plumes like bizarre antennae - absolutely fantastic and unforgettable. This species is endemic to New Guinea. Albert ( ) was the popular King of Saxony from Meyer named the bird after him. King Bird of Paradise Cicinnurus regius: The male that we saw so well along the Elevala River was once again a trip highlight. Understandably so because the red of his plumage was so dazzlingly bright standing out like a pinprick of blood against the dense greenery. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Magnificent Bird of Paradise Cicinnurus magnificus: A very poor showing with just one female seen on our visits to Dablin Creek. We also heard them in the Lai Valley. Raggiana Bird of Paradise Paradisaea raggiana: We really enjoyed our first Raggiana BoPs displaying in Varirata National Park and we had terrific scope views of some splendid males posturing, shimmering and shivering. Some others were seen with the Greaters at Kilometre 17. This species is endemic to New Guinea and is the national bird of PNG. It is named after Marchese Francesco Raggi, an Italian naturalist and collector in New Guinea in the second half of the 19 th century. Greater Bird of Paradise Paradisaea apoda: Fantastic views of a displaying male at the famous display tree at Kilometre 17. We had wonderful views through the scope but the display this year was decidedly lacklustre. The scientific name apoda (no feet) refers to the first skins of birds of paradise that were transported from New Guinea to Europe without their feet. This accepted abnormality led to theories of birds that led a completely aerial life, floating in paradise, and hence the family name. This species is endemic to New Guinea and associated islands. Lesser Bird of Paradise Paradisaea minor: Once again, we were privileged to visit Kumul Lodge s latest attraction. This new display ground is easy to reach (a mere few yards from the car!) and we all had wonderful views of the displaying birds that seemed to be far more numerous and more excitable than last year. Blue Bird of Paradise Paradisaea rudolphi: A really good show this year with two advertising males and a confiding female below Kumul Lodge, a female in Ambua Lodge garden and a male and a female in a garden in Tari Valley. The advertising males that were seen exceedingly well through the scope was certainly one of the many trip highlights. This beautiful species is restricted to a narrow altitudinal range in a small area of the PNG Highlands. It is categorised as Vulnerable by Birdlife International, although as was obvious from this particular location, it tolerates degraded forest much better than the Black Sicklebill. 35 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

36 CORVIDAE Grey Crow Corvus tristis: Small flocks of this odd looking crow were seen at Varirata and in the Kiunga and Tabubil areas. This crow is quite unusual in its plumage, habits and call. Torresian Crow Corvus orru: Commonly seen around Port Moresby in open habitats. Island Crow Corvus insularis: Also known as Bismarck Crow this is a very common blue-eyed crow on New Britain. This form was elevated to specific rank by the IOC (2009) but elsewhere it is lumped as in Clements et al in Torresian Crow C. orru however it differs particularly in its voice and structure and has blue eyes at all ages. MAMMALS Common Spotted Cuscus Spilocuscus maculates: A sleepy individual was seen at close quarters in Varirata National Park. Subalpine Woolly Rat Mallomys istapantap: The large rats that are a regular visitor to the feeding table at Kumul Lodge continue to confuse. The pink ears and white belly fit this species but they appear to have a totally black tail and the illustration in Flannery shows a greyer fur and a two tone tail. Great Flying Fox Pteropus neohibernicus: An impressive feature of the skies on New Britain. The various tree mouse species at Ambua and Kumul remain unidentified. 36 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

37 (left to right) Australian Ibis (Threskiornis molucca) Pied Heron (Egretta picata) Green Figbird (Sphecotheres vieilloti) Barred Owlet-nightjar (Aegotheles bennettii) Blue-winged Kookaburra (Dacelo leachii) (All photos taken on this tour by Nik Borrow) 37 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

38 (left to right) Papuan Frogmouth (Podargus papuensis) Marbled Frogmouth (Podargus ocellatus) female Yellow-eyed Cuckoo-shrike (Coracina lineata) Brown-headed Paradise Kingfisher (Tanysiptera danae) 38 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

39 (left to right) Bar-shouldered Dove (Geopelia humeralis) Purple-tailed Imperial Pigeon (Ducula rufigaster) White-breasted Fruit-dove (Ptilinopus rivoli) Zoe Imperial Pigeon (Ducula zoeae) male Stephan s Ground-dove (Chalcophaps stephani) Red-knobbed Imperial Pigeon (Ducula rubricera) 39 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

40 (left to right) male Fan-tailed Berrypecker (Melanocharis versteri) Crested Berrypecker (Paramythia montium) female Tit Berrypecker (Oreocharis arfaki) male King of Saxony BoP (Pteridophora alberti) male Brown Sicklebill (Epimachus meyeri) male Raggiana BoP (Paradisaea raggiana) 40 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

41 (left to right) Common Smoky Honeyeater (Melipotes fumigata) male Brehm s Tiger-parrot (Psittacella brehmii) female Sanford s Bowerbird (Archboldia sanfordi) male Ribbon-tailed Astrapia (Astrapia mayeri) Friendly Fantail (Rhipidura albolimbata) Ornate Melidectes (Melidectes torquatus) 41 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

42 (left to right) Papuan King-parrot (Alisterus chloropterus) Rufous-throated Bronze-cuckoo (Chrysococcyx ruficollis) Great Woodswallow (Artamus maximus) Sooty Owl (Tyto tenebricosa) female Pied Chat (Saxicola caprata) Pacific Swallow (Hirundo tahitica) 42 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009

43 (left to right) Beach Kingfisher (Halcyon saurophaga) Long-tailed Myna (Mino kreffti) New Britain Boobook (Ninox odiosa) female Eclectus Parrot (Eclectus roratus) 43 Birdquest: Papua New Guinea 2009