WEST PAPUA 24 JUNE 20 JULY GROUP MEMBERS: HELGE GRASTVEIT, PIRJO LAAKSO, JÜRGEN LEHNERT, DAVID NAPIER, KATIE PHILLIPS and ALAN WILKINSON

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1 We saw an amazing variety of New Guinea s unique spectacular and wacky birds many of which are shy and elusive; an exception were the fantastic daytime views of Feline Owlet-nightjar and Mountain Owlet-nightjar (Guy Dutson) WEST PAPUA 24 JUNE 20 JULY 2012 LEADER: GUY DUTSON GROUP MEMBERS: HELGE GRASTVEIT, PIRJO LAAKSO, JÜRGEN LEHNERT, DAVID NAPIER, KATIE PHILLIPS and ALAN WILKINSON To see Western Parotias, perhaps the best avian dancer in the world, and Wilson s Bird of Paradise, perhaps the most gaudily beautiful bird in the world, our group of six were prepared to do what it took. We hiked up mountains and through swamps, endured many nights in very basic campsites, pushed through stinking heat and cold rain, and just kept at it. We were duly rewarded by the entrancing dance of the parotias and the unbelievable colours of displaying Wilson s Birds of Paradise. New Guinea is replete with amazing birds, and the supporting cast included extravagant displaying Magnificent, King-of-Saxony, Lesser and Red Birds of Paradise, singing Brown and Black Sicklebills, astoundingly bright Masked (Flame) Bowerbirds. We also indulged in an impressive variety of verdantlycoloured pigeons, parrots, kingfishers, and two species of super-cute owlet-nightjars, each worthy of favourite ranking. Less resplendent but the rarest sighting of the trip was the soon to-be-split Numfor Leaf Warbler which was seen for perhaps only the second time ever by anyone! Overall, a total of 328 bird species were recorded, of which 20 were only heard by the group and seven seen by just one participant, but despite these numbers, it was a tour of quality rather than quantity. 1 Birdquest Tour Report: West Papua

2 The tour started in Biak, a small island off New Guinea, which supports more than its fair share of endemic birds. Guy had spent four days reconnoitering potential new birding sites, and we anticipated a busy few days. After dropping bags in the hotel, we drove straight to a forest birding site. Biak was the old capital of Dutch New Guinea, but not much happens there nowadays. A hangover from better days is seen in the impressively maintained roads to nowhere, and the heavy logging of all the forests. In this scrubby regrowth, we found a scatter of Rainbow Beeeaters, Dollarbirds and Sacred Kingfishers, all migrants from Australia, and Willie Wagtails and Yellow-bellied Sunbirds were also widespread. Not far into the tall secondary regrowth of our primary birding site, we soon found the most beautiful of Biak s endemics: Biak Paradise Kingfishers, which were flighty in the canopy, regularly but only briefly perching in view. A Brush Cuckoo gave good views at the start of our walk, and several Spangled Drongos and Black-browed Trillers were found further along the path. Hooded Butcherbirds were a daily feature, yodelling from the canopy of the largest trees. Metallic Starlings were also common, and often foraging with the endemic Long-tailed Starlings. Biak Red Lories flew over each day, and we also found Biak Black Flycatchers daily, as well as the more widespread Shining Flycatchers, Black Sunbirds and Red-capped Flowerpeckers. At Guy s favoured spot, we found some Golden Monarchs of the orangey Biak subspecies and Northern Fantails, but not the hoped-for Biak Monarch. A couple of views of the tiny Geelvink Pygmy Parrots and Biak Gerygones were good compensation, and we also found the Biak subspecies of Cicadabird and some saw a Gould s (Malay) Bronze-Cuckoo. Several Red-cheeked Parrots flew over, a pair stopped to show off their finery in the scope, and we flushed a Variable Goshawk. After returning to the car, we stopped on the return drive to search a few likely scrubby sites for the white-eye but only managed to find three newly-colonised ferals: Spotted Dove, Sooty-headed Bulbul and Tree Sparrow. After lunch, we headed out in the other direction for a late afternoon walk. This was one of Guy s new sites but a highlight was discovered on the drive when Katie noticed a perched raptor. This turned into a Gurney s Eagle, which gave us excellent perched and flight views. At the end of the walk, Jurgen suggested that it might be time for an owl and, amazingly, a Biak Scops-Owl started calling. A few minutes later it flew over us, and then perched briefly on a palm tree, a great ending to our first day, suitably rewarded by a night in bed after the long flight. Biak endemics included Biak Red Lory and Biak Gerygone, and near-endemics included Yellow-bibbed Fruit Dove (Guy Dutson) On our first full day, we started early and soon scored well with a Biak Megapode calmly walking down the trail good looks at a rarely-seen endemic. We were distracted by excellent views of Biak Paradise Kingfishers but still reached Guy s preferred birding site in good time for some action. We were again looking for mixed-species flocks and soon found Golden Monarchs and a good series of the species seen yesterday, and also a small flock of beautiful Emperor Fairy-wrens. At last, a Biak Monarch appeared and after some long minutes of brief 2 Birdquest Tour Report: West Papua

3 appearances, we all had good views of at least two of these rarest of the Biak endemics. On the walk back, there were fewer small birds active but Sulphur-crested Cockatoos and Eclectus Parrots flew over, a Slender-billed Cuckoo-Dove perched up for good views, and some glimpsed Spice Imperial Pigeon and Moustached Tree Swift. Back at the car, we found an exquisite Claret-breasted Fruit Dove creeping in the canopy, but the elusive Biak Coucals were again heard and not seen. On the drive home, we stopped at a couple of scrubby sites and soon found our desired Biak White-eyes which are very rarely found in forest. At another stop, Pacific Swallows perched on wires, complementing the now-familiar Glossy and Uniform Swiftlets seen on most days. In the afternoon, we returned to yesterday s site, taking in a few roadside walks and a few rain showers. The forest itself was again rather quiet, but Red-fronted Lorikeets were heard flying over and the Biak Scops-Owl called but was not seen. The paradise kingfishers were just superb here an immature Biak Paradise Kingfisher, a Numfor Paradise Kingfisher regrowing its tail and a full-tailed Biak Paradise Kingfisher (Guy Dutson) After a short lie-in, we spent a long morning crossing to Numfor island. The seas were calm along the lee of Biak and we found a few Torresian Imperial Pigeons on a tiny rocky islet. The channel crossing was however quite rough and we were lucky that we could complete our journey safely to Numfor. One compensation was a fly-past Bulwer s Petrel among the more expected Lesser Frigatebirds, Black Noddies and Crested Terns. On Numfor itself, we were greeted by some very distant waders, presumed to be Grey-tailed Tattlers, and Guy was interested to note the recent colonisation by Feral Pigeons and Tree Sparrows. After lunch by the beach, we passed a big nesting colony of Metallic Starlings on the short walk to our surprisingly high-quality guesthouse. We soon commandeered a passing truck and were out birding along a forested road. At the first stop, a Sacred Kingfisher was seen but David got his binoculars onto a second bird a Numfor Paradise Kingfisher! Superb views of this stellar bird, seen by so few people, and memories of the boat journey were long forgotten. It was quite a birdy stretch of road, the highlight being excellent views of Geelvink Pygmy Parrots around a nest hole, before we retired to our guesthouse and dinner. Another pre-dawn start saw us birding the same stretch of road as yesterday. Drizzling rain came and went, dampening the morning rush of birds. An unremarkable song focused everyone s attention on a treetop in which a leaf warbler was singing and, for a while, evading sight. With persistence, we all saw the orangey lower mandible, grey head and slight supercilium of the Numfor (subspecies? of) leaf warbler. We think that this is the first ever field sighting of this taxon which was known only from a handful of specimens. Its taxonomic status is under investigation it merits separate illustration in the old edition of Beehler s field guide and given the recent trend to split many phylloscs, this distinctive taxon is likely to be promoted to full species. Numfor Leaf Warbler: only ever 3 Birdquest Tour Report: West Papua

4 seen in the field by this tour! Subsequent birding was anticlimactic but included excellent scope views of beautiful Yellow-bibbed Fruit Doves opposite a Superb Fruit Dove and a confiding Emerald Ground Dove beside the road. A (Wallacean) Osprey, Channel-billed Cuckoos and many Torresian Crows flew over and, for some, an Island Monarch showed briefly. On the drive back, a rail scuttled off from beside the road, and we stopped and waited. We were considering the need for breakfast when a Rufous-tailed Bush-hen appeared on the road and offered uncharacteristically prolonged and clear views as it crossed the road and bathed in full view. Breakfast was about to win over us when Helge noticed a second rail. Again we waited. Eventually this one ran across the road and proved itself to be a Red-necked Crake. Double luck! The return boat journey was much smoother, enabling us to see a pod of Indo-Pacific Bottle-nosed Dolphins, but few seabirds. We stopped at the small island Palau Rani for a walk along mangrove forest and then coconut plantations. There were few birds, but some brief Grey-tailed Tattlers and a confiding snake was a small compensation, until we were about to give up, when we found some Island Monarchs. We all had views of this bonus species before returning to Biak and a late owling trip. Back on our usual trail, Papuan Frogmouths were calling, Guy saw a Biak Glider and Jurgen spot-lit a Large-tailed Nightjar to give great flight views for all. But no more owls. Our early morning flight was delayed and we didn t get to the forest near Lake Sentani until 10 o clock. It was overcast and surprisingly birdy, most exceptional being a Jobi Manucode that flew towards us and then away as we started our walk. A Zoe Imperial Pigeon perched up for good views and a Pink-spotted Fruit Dove perched more distantly. A small flock feeding in small flowers along the trail consisted of Pygmy and Dwarf Honeyeaters and a Green-backed Honeyeater, all nondescript and often difficult to see little birds. Activity slowed as a Rufous-collared Monarch showed in the understory and a White-bellied Thicket-Fantail flew across the trail, before we returned for lunch. In the afternoon, we visited the neighbouring grasslands. Jurgen had staked-out smart Grand Mannikins and Crimson Finches in the tall grasses for us, and they duly obliged, along with the more widespread Pied Chats and Golden-headed Cisticolas. A Blue-tailed Bee-eater showed off well, and was carefully distinguished from the previous Rainbow Bee-eaters. A section of recently-burnt grassland looked to have potential and a wobbly line of us flushed one, two, three and then four Red-backed Buttonquails a tour write-in. In the forest thickets, a Fawnbreasted Bowerbird showed well, and a Glossy-mantled Manucode flew past and perched. Driving on to the lake, we found Whistling Kite, Intermediate Egrets, Dusky Moorhens and an Australian (Purple) Swamphen. At one stop we had great views of a Lesser Black Coucal and then a beautiful Buff-banded Rail feeding its chicks on our lunch discards on the road. Two Blue-breasted (King) Quails flushed for brief views and a nearby White-shouldered Fairy-wren jumped around in full view. In the later afternoon, a number of pigeons perched up, including Pinon and Zoe Imperial-Pigeons and Orange-bellied Fruit-Doves. Tree Martins circled in the distance, and some Dusky Lories flew over at a typically high altitude. The first Tree Sparrow for Numfor was atop the cross! Grand Mannikin and White-shouldered Fairy-wren near Lake Sentani (Guy Dutson) Our early morning flight was significantly delayed but we treated ourselves to Singing Starlings outside the terminal and some gastronomic surprises in the executive lounge. After flying over seemingly endless tracts of flat swampy 4 Birdquest Tour Report: West Papua

5 forest and vertiginous montane forest, we arrived in the cool thin air of Wamena where we completed some camping logistics. This was the real New Guinea a frontier-town full of bearded warriors, albeit nowadays conventionally covered in cheap western clothes. Driving up the mountain, we stopped occasionally for birds, and also to admire a Dani man wearing his traditional attire of just a penis gourd. A scatter of birds included a Collared Sparrowhawk over the hillside fields and our first montane species: a pair of Canary Flycatchers, a Hooded Cuckoo-shrike and a White-winged Robin at lunch, and a Mountain Firetail at the highest pass. Our vehicles dropped us off on the road opposite our just erected camp beside Lake Habema. We walked across a small bog, seeing our first Orange-cheeked Honeyeaters, a remarkably large West Papuan endemic, and spent the last hour helping to set-up camp. The limitations of the campsite were well compensated by the scenery of stunted conifers against surreal wispy clouds and Lake Habema itself, all dwarfed by the massive rocky ridges of the Snow Mountains. Our first morning near Lake Habbema was a sublime combination of awesome scenery and fantastic birding (Guy Dutson) On our first morning at altitude we walked quickly to a Macgregor s Bird of Paradise territory. On the lake we admired a couple of pairs of Salvadori s Teal dabbling and diving among the numerous Eurasian Coots and a pair of Pacific Black Ducks. We spent most of the morning stood on a small hill overlooking the forest edge and waiting for a series of exotic species to fly in and perch up. The highlight was the two or three Macgregor s Bird of Paradise which occasionally perched up in the open of their favoured Dacrycarpus conifer trees. A male Splendid Astrapia perched briefly, whereas the gaudy Painted Tiger-Parrots and Crested Berrypeckers repeatedly perched very close. Plum-faced Lorikeets showed exceptionally well, Papuan Lorikeets flew past, and a Fan-tailed Cuckoo was also scoped. Belford s Melidectes and Grey-streaked Honeyeaters became constant features and friends, and several Island Thrushes, a couple of Common Smoky Honeyeaters and one Short-bearded Melidectes were seen. There were few small birds except Brown-breasted Gerygones and a Papuan Grassbird scoped in the bog. The overall environment of alpine forest-edge with the lake, bogs, tree-ferns, distant 4000 m peaks and variable wisps of fog and cloud created a beautiful and surreal backdrop to a wonderful morning s birding. On the walk back, we walked in a line up and down a large bog in search of the papuan grouse. It took an hour of hard walking but then we flushed four Snow Mountain Quail, massive galliforms whirring past us, and some of us saw them briefly on the ground running for cover. Walking back to camp, we found the endemic Lorentz s Whistler and some tiny Papuan Thornbills. We relaxed in camp, had lunch, then walked to our new campsite back along the road. The highlight of the walk along the access road was a magnificent male Papuan Harrier quartering the bog. We also had better views of several species seen this morning, notably Black-throated Honeyeater. Stopping only briefly at our new campsite, we walked another km up the road, finding a lovely Brehm s Tiger-Parrot, several chunky Alpine Pipits 5 Birdquest Tour Report: West Papua

6 and some close fly-by Yellow-billed Lorikeets. At dusk the hoped-for New Guinea Woodcock was heard but not seen, and we happily settled into our comfortable camp. The treeline near Lake Habbema had many great birds including Crested Berrypecker and Painted Tiger-parrot in low fruiting bushes, and Whiskered Lorikeet in low flowering bushes and trees (Guy Dutson) Next morning we stood watching from a small viewpoint beside the road and had much better views of Macgregor s Bird of Paradise. A range of small birds in the highest scrubby forest included a couple of flocks of Papuan Scrubwrens, some resplendent Red-collared Myzomelas, and a Dimorphic Fantail and Rufous-naped Whistler. After another breakfast and packing at camp, we set off back into the grasslands in search of the often elusive Western Alpine Mannikin. We had good views of numerous Alpine Pipits but had turned back and were walking home before we found the mannikins excellent views of a feeding flock. We then spent the later morning and all afternoon walking downhill to the Yaloye camp. This was the most dangerous of our treks, descending steeply and in places traversing a steep ravine, but we took our time and appreciated the effort that had been invested in repairing and rebuilding the path. In the highest altitude mossy forest, our first new bird was a Mountain Robin that flitted about the mossy forest canopy. Further along the trail we had good views of two highly sought-after ground birds a glistening black Lesser Melampitta walked alongside the path and a uniformly orangey Chestnut Forest-Rail paused on the path in front of us all. Down a steep landslide, we then walked along the stream bed to lunch at a small confluence. The path then skirted above the ravine, our attention alternating between very narrow paths and great eye-level views of feeding flocks of Orange-billed Lorikeets. A scatter of other small birds included many Bufffaced Scrub-wrens, some Friendly Fantails, and a splendid Black-breasted Boatbill. Further along, the path turned into flatter forest with some impressively large trees, where a Chestnut-breasted Cuckoo and a Goldie s Lorikeet perched up. A flock of Papuan Sittellas were seen high in the canopy, but dusk crept in and we had to hurry on to complete the walk into camp before darkness set in 6 Birdquest Tour Report: West Papua

7 The trek to the Yaloye camp was the most challenging walk of the tour, with many steep slopes and narrow trails. The birding down there was well worth the hardship, a highlight being this male King of Saxony Bird of Paradise (Guy Dutson) We had one full day at the Yaloye camp, and when a Brown Sicklebill called down the path, we departed breakfast very promptly. Its loud machine-gun rattle drew us quickly along the remarkably muddy trail and we were all happy to have perched and flight views of this spectacularly large bird. We were particularly lucky given that our local guide had recently shot one, walked down to Wamena to sell it, but eaten it himself when he failed to find a buyer. Our next objective was to find a King-of-Saxony, for which we slowly descended the trail until we could hear one singing. Papuan, Orange-billed and Plum-faced Lorikeets were all feeding in bushes and small trees along this trail and seen well through the morning. The King-of-Saxony was singing from a viewpoint but it took some time and effort for Helge to find a tiny window through which the bird could be seen, and to get everyone onto it. We all admired its outrageous twitching head-plumes, and later were spoiled with much closer eye-level views. A good range of other montane forest birds were also seen, including Black-bellied Cuckoo-shrikes, Sclater s Whistler, a flying Great Wood-swallow and a small flock of Orange-crowned Fairy-wrens. A three-star bonus was a Short-tailed Paradigalla which briefly foraged in an exposed tree beside the viewpoint. In the afternoon, some rested ready for tomorrow s long ascent, and others walked back uphill. Along a short circular walk taking in a local forest hut, we found Blue-faced Parrot-finches and a small mammal, probably a Speckled Dasyure. Blue-grey Robins and Lesser Ground Robins continued the recent trend of singing in abundance but only showing briefly to some of the group. Next day we walked back up to the road. This wasn t as long and hard as we had anticipated, but we were blessed with good weather and keen to complete the walk before it rained. Close to Yaloye, a male Splendid Astrapia perched up several times, showing its splendid iridescence, and a couple of females or immatures were also seen. Several Mountain Mouse-Warblers were seen close to the path. As well as a variety of lorikeets, we had close views of a Modest Tiger-Parrot. A couple of mixed-species flocks included Grey Gerygone and Island Leaf-warbler among a range of now familiar scrub-wrens, and great views of a Black Fantail alongside Friendly Fantails. At higher altitudes, we had good views of a White-winged Robin as well as Dimorphic Fantails and several of the montane grassland species, including another Papuan Harrier. We arrived back at camp in mid-afternoon, happy to be back on a road! Not quite hot showers, but a great step closer. We managed some very short walks in the afternoon before it started raining hard we were lucky to have completed our hike in the dry. 7 Birdquest Tour Report: West Papua

8 On our final day at high altitude, we walked back along the road through the highest-altitude forest of the tour. Close to camp, we heard an Archbold s Bowerbird, and Jurgen later saw it fly across the road. Most of the birds were now familiar species, but included much better views of Mountain Firetail, and we all had good views of a Rufous-throated Bronze Cuckoo. Further along, we all enjoyed a perched Sooty Melidectes beside a flock of Black Sittellas which offered wonderful views as they crept along and under small branches like tiny nuthatches. Before the vehicles picked us up, we found a female Crested Bird-of-paradise only retrospectively identified from the very similar Macgregor s Bowerbird, and another bonus species very rarely seen on this tour and prolonged views of three tiny Mountain Robins. We then made four stops at lower altitudes. It was now sunny and there was less bird activity but we did find a pair of Yellow-streaked Honeyeaters, an unusual tail-cocking canopy species. At the first tiny patch of grassland and gardens we heard and then soon found Black-breasted Mannikins, the final west Papuan endemic of this leg of the tour, feeding in the garden alongside Pied Chats. Back in Wamena, the lure of the hotel proved too much and the only birds seen in the afternoon were Feral Pigeons, Mountain Swiftlets and Tree Sparrows. The Habbema trek offered our closest interactions with local characters, here at the Yaloye camp, and the best scenery of the trip (Guy Dutson) Awaiting our early morning flight back to Sentani, we birded a wooded outskirts of town, seeing the mid-altitude Ornate Melidectes and Western Mountain White-eye with Brown-breasted Gerygones, but only hearing Superb Birds of Paradise from across an impassable river, and also a Common Golden Whistler and Buff-banded Rails. After flying back over those vast expanses of forest, we re-packed at our Sentani hotel, had a good lunch at our favourite restaurant, and drove to Nimbokrang. The second car struggled with our weight, or the heat, or terminal engine problems, and was discarded in the village, where, we had good views of a white-phase Variable Goshawk and some Rainbow Lorikeets. We drove on to our campsite, where we found our local guide Jamil and a wellappointed camp. The afternoon was showery but a good variety of usually distant birds were seen from an adjacent mound. Papuan Spine-tailed Swifts whizzed past alongside the more fluttery Uniform Swiftlets. Several pairs of Double-eyed Fig-Parrots and Yellow-faced Mynas perched in full view, and Helge scoped a Papuan Hanging- Parrot. New Guinea Friarbirds were prominent, calling loudly and perching obviously, and Tawny-breasted and Streak-headed Honeyeaters perched up briefly. A few female Lesser Birds of Paradise were seen in flight and several Grey Crows perched. The highlights were good flight and perched views of the regionally-endemic Brown Lory, a distant Ornate Fruit Dove, and a long-staying male Dwarf Koel. Streak-headed Mannikins were seen in the clearing, with Rufous-tailed Bush-hens and White-shouldered Fairy-wrens. We set off before dawn, to the sound of Hook-billed Kingfishers, on a short trail which overlooked a display stump of a Twelve-wired Bird of Paradise. After an anxiously long wait, the bird appeared and strutted his stuff on the stump good views but unfortunately he was subadult and zero-wired. After he departed, we tried walking the trail which was badly overgrown, but Jamil heard a Pale-billed Sicklebill call. Jamil s amazing whistling brought the bird directly in it perched right next to us before hiding in a more typically concealed perch. This bird of paradise is always difficult to see, and a great treat at such close range. Back on the road, some Black Cuckoo-Shrikes foraged above us, and we then returned to the campsite, seeing a Crested Hawk (Pacific Baza) and Brahminy Kite 8 Birdquest Tour Report: West Papua

9 along the road. After a quick pit-stop, we birded another trail to a King Bird of Paradise tree, first seeing a tiny Rufous-backed Fantail. The king was at home but elusive and it took an hour to gain scope views of this fantastic bird of paradise, complete with shining green coils on tail-streamers. Brown-collared Brush-turkeys and a Dusky Megapode called, on the walk back a Blue Jewel-babbler was heard, but rain forced an early lunch. We birded around camp over the midday hours, picking up a few more fly-by pigeons, parrots and friarbirds. Later, we birded along the road, finding a Greater Black Coucal in a roadside palm and an impressive Rufous-bellied Kookaburra, but a Yellow-billed Kingfisher was elusive. A tiny bird eventually turned out to be the nondescript Green-backed Honeyeater. At our destination viewpoint, some Rusty Pitohuis passed through and another white-phase Grey Goshawk and a Crested Hawk were seen, and the highlight was a massive Palm Cockatoo slowly flapping past. A huge truck then became stuck in the mud next to us and we retreated in fear of it sliding helplessly over our viewpoint, and returned to camp. The Nimbokrang lowlands were hard birding but highlights included Emperor Fairy-Wren (this is a female), Lowland Peltops, and fantastic flowering displays of D Albertis s Creeper (Mucuna novoguineensis) (Guy Dutson) Another early start saw us walking in search of Lesser Birds of Paradise. The forest trail was again narrow and birding was challenging. The Lessers had moved display tree and we only just made it in time to see one or two wonderfully-plumed male Lesser Birds of Paradise cavorting in the canopy. Returning from one of their display trees, Helge found a pair of diminutive Buff-faced Pygmy-Parrots at a nest in a termite-mound, but the White-eared Catbirds swearing at us from thickets remained unseen. We then birded a small area while our guides went searching for crowned-pigeons and Blue-black Kingfisher. We had very close views of a Black Berrypecker, brief views of a Wompoo Fruit Dove, and excellent scope views of a Beautiful Fruit Dove. A small flock contained a Grey-headed Whistler and a pair of the scarce Olive Flycatchers. A Sooty Thicket-fantail showed surprisingly well, and a Rufous Mouse-Warbler crept through a tree-fall thicket. A number of manucodes seen today and the next day looked mostly like Glossy-mantled, but also showed some features of the very similar Jobi Manucode. Walking back to camp, both Magnificent Riflebird and Rufous Babblers called but remained hidden away from the path. After lunch and another couple of hours birding around camp, most of the group walked to another small viewpoint, while Jurgen birded our morning s trail. We all had great looks at Lowland Peltops, a striking taxonomic oddity. Jurgen found a greater range of species including Grey-headed Cuckoo-shrike and more manucodes. After dinner, we went out in search of night-birds, some of us seeing a huge Papuan Frogmouth perched. 9 Birdquest Tour Report: West Papua

10 An early start found us walking the same path as last night, hearing both Papuan and Marbled Frogmouths before a subdued dawn chorus starring the fluty harmonics of Black Butcherbirds. It was hardly light when a massive bird flushed up, clapping its wings: a Victoria Crowned-Pigeon! This was great luck after our guides had failed to find this species yesterday, but we couldn t re-find the bird. We left Dante to search for it while we went on in search of Blue-black Kingfishers and Salvadori s Fig-Parrots. The kingfishers remained silent but fig-parrots were calling from their traditional nesting tree. We indulged in great scope views of this restricted-range species, which shared its tree with Sulphur-crested Cockatoos and Eclectus Parrots. Several Papuan Hornbills were also seen, including a pair perched beside an old nest-hole. We then hurried back to discover whether Dante had re-found the Victoria Crowned-Pigeon. It was difficult to know whether he had it in view or just knew its approximate location as we crept forward and strained to find this huge pigeon in various large trees. But Dante was onto it and we were all satiated with scope views of this most flamboyant of birds. We then walked slowly back to the village, hearing Red-flanked Lorikeets and having some good views of our first Yellow-bellied Longbill as well as Emperor Fairy-Wrens and White-bellied Thicket-fantails along the trail. After walking the last section of wet grassland in the hot sun, we were very happy to reach the village and watch a few Mimic Meliphagas before lunch and a rest at Jamil s house. We returned to the hotel in Sentani and were soon out again, this time exploring the hills behind town. An early surprise was a Papuan (Pygmy) Eagle (recently split from Little Eagle) gliding right overhead. The birding was otherwise slow but steady, with more rather distant raptors and some confiding White-shouldered Fairy-Wrens. We were all delighted to have prolonged views of Victoria Crowned Pigeon thanks to Dante s hunting skills (Guy Dutson) Early the next morning, we flew to Sorong another long flight over seemingly endless forest. It was raining when we arrived, so we checked into our hotel and then boarded our speed-boat for the journey to Batanta island. Cruising past a series of small tropical islands, with a few Crested and Bridled Terns in attendance, was a pleasant scenic change. The tide was too low to land at Senapang island but we cut the engine and had rather distant views of Great-billed Parrots and Spice Imperial Pigeons flying over the island, and a Beach Kingfisher on the shore. We picked up our local guide from Salawati island, then landed at our beach campsite on Batanta. After comparing the sizes of our mosquito nets and settling in, we set off along the path behind the camp. The path crossed some gardens with many Eclectus Parrots, and as soon as we entered the forest we could hear Red Birds of Paradise. Two males were displaying in a large tree and, with patience, we all enjoyed good scope views of these resplendent birds, quintessential birds of paradise with ornate glimmering heads, fluffy plumes and long tailstreamers. They were also joined by a Brown Oriole, but the nearby calling Common Paradise Kingfishers remained hidden to most. Back along the path, we spent the last hour watching the evening movements of pigeons and parrots and our first Olive-crowned Flowerpeckers. Although it rained heavily throughout our stay on Batanta, the rain ceased for our 3 am awakening and the earliest start of the trip. We were ascending the mountain to the display ground of Wilson s Bird of Paradise, much celebrated as perhaps the most beautiful bird in the world. The walk up the steep mountain in the dark wasn t as difficult as we had been lead to fear, and despite some slipping and plenty of rest-stops, we arrived at the top well before dawn. Marbled and Papuan Frogmouths called but declined to show themselves, and then a Wilson s called 10 Birdquest Tour Report: West Papua

11 and we set off down a particularly steep path to a newly-appointed hide. It was a few anxious minutes before the male Wilson s Bird of Paradise appeared but he soon jumped around just a few metres in front of us to everyone s delight. Those who stayed longer in the hide also enjoyed some Rusty Mouse-Warblers and then at least four Wilson s, with superb views of two males indulging in some display. Was it the most beautiful bird in the world? Perhaps too gaudy but definitely one of the most striking birds in the world. Pheasant Pigeon and Red-bellied Pitta were heard, and a scatter of birds were seen on the return walk, the highlight being multiple views of Common Paradise Kingfisher, including one perched, and a rare prolonged perched view of a gem-like Variable Dwarf Kingfisher. Hooded Pittas were glimpsed, a Purple-tailed Imperial Pigeon was heard, and near our camp we all had good views of the skulking Black Thicket-fantail. After some snorkeling, swimming, bathing, eating and resting, we took the boat across to Salawati in an optimistic search for Northern Cassowary. At a huge fruiting tree, we saw some Western Black-capped Lories and poor views of Palm Cockatoos. Red-billed Brush-turkeys called but it soon started to rain, so we returned to our guide s village, where we tried birding from the shelter of his house, but eventually gave in to the increasing rain. Wilson s Bird of Paradise was perhaps the most spectacular bird of the trip, but too gaudy to be the most beautiful bird for some people. Palm Cockatoos and Papuan Hornbills were highlights of dawn watches on Salawati (Guy Dutson) The next day, we returned to Salawati for dawn at a viewpoint. Standing in a riverbed, we counted at least 248 Papuan Hornbills flying over, along with many Eclectus Parrots and a couple of spectacular Palm Cockatoos. There were a few Pinon Imperial Pigeons and Orange-bellied Fruit Doves but not a great variety of species so we returned to the boat, where there was a pair of White-headed (Radjah) Shelducks and some White-bellied Cuckoo- Shrikes. We cruised to another site further along the coast, passing White-bellied Sea Eagle, Brahminy Kites, Little Pied Cormorant and Pacific Reef Egrets, before spending a few hours searching for crowned pigeons in tall swamp forest. Our guide found a crowned pigeon nest but unfortunately not the birds themselves, and we struggled to see much else in the tall trees and the increasing rain, although an Azure Kingfisher was new for the trip. After lunch, we returned to search for crowned pigeons at another site, except for Alan who stayed for better views of the Red Birds of Paradise. Again, we were thwarted by rain, but this time we heard the crowned pigeons and eventually Guy found them but they flew off in the wrong direction. Perhaps the highlight of this walk was witnessing the speed with which the ground of this swamp forest flooded, and crossing many swollen streams. Back at the boat, we returned again to our guide s village in hope of some evening fly-over pigeons and parrots, and the highlights were Australian White Ibis and three white raptors: two white-phase Variable Goshawks and an unidentified medium-sized raptor, probably a juvenile Papuan (Pygmy / Little) Eagle. 11 Birdquest Tour Report: West Papua

12 Emerald Tree Monitor (Varanus prasinus), White-bellied Sea Eagle and Yellow-billed Kingfisher on Salawati (Guy Dutson) On our last opportunity for Western Crowned Pigeon, we returned for a pre-dawn start at Salawati and enjoyed a more variety dawn fly-over including our second target species, a Black Lory (definitely a Black Lory, not just a silhouetted lory.) Other species seen included the usual suite of pigeons and parrots, and several Papuan Spinetailed Swifts (not listed in the field guide for Salawati). We were keen to press on into the forest and, after another fly-over of Black Lories, we were soon beckoned on by our guide. Amazingly, there were two Western Crowned Pigeons feeding in the river bed, and we later had good scope views of one perched over the river. Elated to eventually see this superb bird after all our effort in the rain, we took the time to look at the smaller birds, starting with good views of a Black-sided Robin. A Puff-backed Meliphaga and Spot-winged Monarch were more elusive but a mixed flock included our first Pale-billed Scrub-wrens as well as Yellow-bellied Gerygone and Frilled Monarch. Returning to the boat, we had good views of a Little Shrike-Thrush, found an Emerald Tree Monitor, a rare arboreal lizard, and spent our last half hour chasing Yellow-billed Kingfishers and Red-throated Myzomela by the beach. Bottle-nosed Dolphins were the only mammals seen on this leg of the trip, although we found tracks of wallabies and feral pigs. After lunch, we returned to Sorong, seeing a few more Lesser Frigatebirds, Common, Bridled and also Black-naped Terns. At Senapang island, we had better views of Beach Kingfisher as well as Great-billed Parrots and White-breasted Woodswallows. After a quick hotel stop, we drove into the hills behind Sorong, along the Makbon road and were soon watching Zoe Imperial Pigeons and Orange-bellied Fruit Doves. Boyer s Cuckoo-Shrikes were seen just as the rain stopped play, and we returned for an excellent and wellappreciated restaurant meal and hotel bed, our only one for a few days. Half of the group returned to the Makbon for a brief morning visit, and this time our birding constrained by dense mist. One new species was seen: brief views of a displaying Grey-headed Goshawk, as well as good views of some now-familiar pigeons. Back in town, Guy saw a Cinnamon Bittern from the car, and we were soon flying to Manokwari and the Arfaks. We drove through lowlands largely converted to oil-palm, then up a particularly steep road into the mountains we were grateful not to have done this trip in the years before this road, when it was a three-day walk. At our first stop, we found a mixed flock of Black-fronted and Western Mountain White-eyes, feeding in small berry-bushes with a couple of Mountain Meliphagas and our first proper view of a Green-backed Gerygone. Further up, we found a great fruiting Schefflera tree which supported females of three Birds of Paradise: Western Parotia, Magnificent and Lesser Birds of Paradise, a female Masked (Flame) Bowerbird and some Hooded Pitohuis. Lunching along this stretch of road, we had great views of male Masked Bowerbirds, with just amazingly fluorescent plumage. A range of other new species included Black-winged Monarch, Chestnut-bellied Fantail, exquisite Dwarf Whistlers, a big Stout-billed Cuckoo-shrike and, for some, Moluccan King-Parrot, and Mountain Red-headed Myzomela. Further up the road, we also saw a Vogelkop Whistler, another female-plumaged West Papuan endemic, had brief views of a Vogelkop Melidectes, and our first good views of a Long-tailed Buzzard. Returning to the fruiting tree, we also saw a male Western Parotia, a really smart Great Cuckoo-Dove, and along the road some White-faced Robins. We then completed our drive to Sioubri, near Mokwom village, walked the last few metres to the guest-house, and settled into our wooden guest house, home for the last few days of the tour. 12 Birdquest Tour Report: West Papua

13 Vogelkop Bowerbirds build one of the most spectacular constructions in the avian world, decorated with fruits and forest junk (Guy Dutson) The Western Parotia display court we had wonderful views of (camera-shy) birds displaying just in front of the hide (Guy Dutson) This village and our guide Zeth have become famous for their hides overlooking Western Parotia and Vogelkop Bowerbird displays. We set off before dawn for the short sharp ascent, hearing our first Australian Koels. We divided ourselves between two parotia hides, spending three hours watching the performances before moving to two bowerbird hides. At both hides, the Western Parotias treated us to spell-binding performances, with everyone mesmerized by the ballerina dance just a few metres in front of us. The transformation of these birds, their unworldly costumes and eccentric dancing is a birdwatching highlight of the world! The bowerbirds were less cooperative, with just one seen, but the bowers were also amazing and another world-class ornithological experience. An Ashy Robin also appeared in front of one hide. Between the hides was the nest hole of a Redbreasted Pygmy-Parrot which was seen by some people today, some tomorrow. We then walked to a thicket where Zeth expertly found a roosting Mountain Owlet-nightjar a tiny sprite and another ornithological highlight! We lunched in a clearing over which a Meyer s Goshawk soared, then returned by another route back to the village. A number of Vogelkop Scrub-wrens were seen, and briefer views of Mountain Mouse-Warblers and Rufous-sided 13 Birdquest Tour Report: West Papua

14 Honeyeaters. Zeth found a second Mountain Owlet-nightjar which perched in the open for outstanding views. There were many birds along this trail and one small area yielded Bronze Ground Dove, Tit Berrypecker, Fan-tailed Berrypecker, Western Smoky Honeyeater and Garnet Robin. We also found nests of Canary Flycatcher, Black Monarch and Vogelkop Bowerbird in close vicinity, and scoped the incubating female bowerbird. On the downward slope, we found another Blue-grey Robin and a pair of Vogelkop Melidectes, then most people had views of Black Pitohui, but no paradigallas. On the final gentle slope back to the village, Zeth found us a Feline Owlet-nightjar, a most weirdly-patterned final ornithological highlight of an amazing day. On our second morning, half of the group went to a Magnificent Bird of Paradise hide, the other half back up to the Western Parotias. The Magnificent performed a little, offering good views of its yellow cape and spiraled tailstreamers, and a Green-backed Robin and Long-billed Honeyeater also performed well in front of the hide. The magnificent team then walked up a steep ridge and back to the village for lunch, hearing a White-striped Forest Rail, and seeing a Mountain Drongo among a wide variety of previously seen species. The parotia team only saw some rudimentary dancing, perhaps the birds were tired after yesterday s great performance, but a Spotted Jewelbabbler showed amazingly well in front of David s hide. David and Guy also saw an Ashy Robin above the hides, and the group saw a variety of small birds back near the village including good views of Dwarf Honeyeater as well as Regent Whistler. In the afternoon, we tried again for paradigallas, but no luck the berries seemed not to be ripe. On the walk up, we saw a Mottled Whistler, an uncommon species not previously recorded by Birdquest in West Papua. Around the viewpoints were more Western Smoky Honeyeaters, good views of a pair and juvenile Vogelkop Melidectes, more views of Black Pitohui, and on the return walk, at least one White-eared Bronzecuckoo. The previous evening, David had gone down with malarial complications, and the next morning he and Guy left for town. The others split themselves into Magnificent Bird of Paradise, Western Parotia and roadside walking groups for pre-breakfast excursions. The Magnificent performed magnificently, erecting a bright yellow cape, showing off an iridescent green breast and twitching his long curved tail-streamers. He was watched by a female and two or three more females, or more likely young males, as well as the group just a few metres away in the hide. However, the parotias again hardly danced. After breakfast, the group slowly walked up the mountain to a new campsite up at Arfak Astrapia altitude. The walk passed the parotia hides, then ascended through a beautiful expanse of montane forest up to a more stunted and mossy ridge. A range of new species were seen, including good views of couple of Rufescent Imperial Pigeons, Papuan Treecreeper and Cinnamon-browed Melidectes. The group reached the camp as the rain was starting, and little else was seen that afternoon, but at least the local team had pitched a comfortable and water-tight camp. The rain eased during the night, and dawn was dry and full of birdsong. An early start was made in search of Black Sicklebill. The group was in luck as a male called on cue and this impressively huge bird was soon seen perched as it made its unusual quacking call. The two other major targets, Arfak Astrapia and Smoky Robin, both Vogelkop endemics, were also both seen well, resulting in a very successful mountain hike. Another Black Sicklebill and Arfak Astrapia, and more Cinnamon-browed Melidectes, were seen on the descent, as was a Black-throated Robin. Lower down towards the village, the group searched again for paradigallas without any luck, and the rest of the descent was accelerated by rain, before the afternoon became a wash-out. 14 Birdquest Tour Report: West Papua

15 Great Cuckoo-Dove was one of many species in a busy fruiting tree. This male Magnificent Bird of Paradise performed for some at its display, where this Green-backed Robin, a Vogelkop endemic, also showed very well from the small hide (Guy Dutson) Next morning, Guy returned and split the group again into pre-breakfast Magnificent Bird of Paradise, Western Parotia and roadside walking groups, while Jurgen went with Zeth to another paradigalla site. The Magnificent displayed a little, accompanied by the same entourage and Green-backed Robin and Long-billed Honeyeater, and Grey-green Scrub-wrens were seen on the return walk. The parotias again jumped around without dancing, and the highlights of the roadside walk were some Yellow-billed Lorikeets. Jurgen and Zeth were finally successful in finding one or two Long-tailed Paradigallas, the last of our target endemics, and also saw another Bronze Ground Dove and a range of more familiar species. Various members of the group converged above the village and saw a female Superb Bird of Paradise and also a male Superb Fruit Dove. It rained over lunch and some of the afternoon, but Bicoloured Mouse-Warblers were glimpsed around the guest house. In the later afternoon, one group went looking for forest-rails, without any luck, but did see a few small birds in the mist including Grey-green Scrub-wrens and Fairy Gerygones, with more Black-winged Monarchs, Chestnut-bellied Fantails and Dwarf Whistlers. At night, a Papuan Boobook and Feline Owlet-nightjars called in the distance. On our final day, we explored by car the road up down from the village to the lowlands. Our first excursion was to look for Buff-tailed Sicklebills, but none was calling or seen in their usual haunts. We then drove down to a small clearing where we first saw distant perched White-throated Pigeons, much closer Papuan Mountain Pigeons, then several Blue-collared Parrots flew past. A variety of small birds included our first Marbled Honeyeater and several views of a flighty Slaty-chinned Longbill. Further down, we spent most of our day around the Schefflera tree and adjacent stretches of road. The tree was still in fruit and pulled in our first proper looks at the shy White-eared Catbird as well as both male and female of both Western Parotia and Magnificent Birds of Paradise. Male Superb and White-bibbed Fruit Doves also called in, offering good eye-level views. Masked (Flame) Bowerbirds showed less well but Black-billed Cuckoo-doves were found in other nearby fruiting trees and Katie caught-up with Mountain Red-headed Myzomela. Guy saw a Perplexing Scrub-wren, but was unsure whether the plain scrubwrens uphill of the village were Perplexing or Large (they were certainly both perplexing and large!). Further down the road, the birding was slower, but we all saw Scrub White-eared Meliphagas, and we visited a birdwing butterfly farm, where a Papuan (Pygmy / Little) Eagle was soaring. Little more was seen until the last bird of the day, a Papuan Hanging-Parrot seen by Guy and Katie. The very last part-day was spent flying from Manokwari to Macassar to Jakarta, where we all took a transit night before our flights home. Two Black Lories outside the hotel at Manokwari were a real surprise, until they landed on a feeder and were presumably free-flying captives. We said our final goodbyes to Shita, who had organized the trip so well, and managed to see a few Javan Pond Herons and Woolly-necked Storks at Macassar airport, and various 15 Birdquest Tour Report: West Papua

16 munias and familiar ferals at Jakarta. On route, we discussed our bird of the trip - our way of remembering our tour highlights and revisiting the main reasons why we undertook this often challenging tour. The stand-out bird of the trip was Western Parotia, seen by all in its amazing ballerina dance. Second was Wilson s Bird of Paradise, perhaps more beautiful and also performing well, and close third the Masked (split here from Flame) Bowerbird which dazzled us with its fluorescent flame-coloured plumage. Those who saw the Magnificent Bird of Paradise in full display rated this as fourth, followed by a number of species with two votes: Victoria Crowned Pigeon (plus another vote for Western Crowned Pigeon), Feline Owlet-nightjar, Numfor Paradise Kingfisher and King Bird of Paradise. For these world-class ornithological wonders, we were grateful and satisfied. Birds of the Trip 1 = Western Parotia 2 = Wilson s Bird of Paradise 3 = Masked (Flame) Bowerbird 4 = Magnificent Bird of Paradise 5 = Victoria (& Western) Crowned Pigeon, Feline Owlet-nightjar, Numfor Paradise Kingfisher and King Bird of Paradise. 16 Birdquest Tour Report: West Papua

17 The group at Lake Habbema, with our happy singing porters; in the second half of the tour, we were joined by Alan (Guy Dutson) SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES RECORDED DURING THE TOUR Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were only recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (LO). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). Species marked with the diamond symbol ( ) are either endemic to the country or local region or considered special birds for some other reason (e.g. it is only seen on one or two Birdquest tours; it is difficult to see across all or most of its range; the local form is endemic or restricted-range and may in future be treated as a full species). Northern Cassowary Casuarius unappendiculatus Tracks and droppings only Bulwer s Petrel Bulweria bulwerii One on the Numfor crossing Lesser Frigatebird Fregata ariel Up to 10 seen on each boat crossing Little Pied Cormorant Phalacrocorax melanoleucos One on Salawati Intermediate Egret (Yellow-billed E) Egretta intermedia About 10 around Lake Sentani Little Egret Egretta garzetta Three on Salawati Eastern Reef Egret (Pacific R E) Egretta sacra Two on Palau Rani Cinnamon Bittern (Chestnut B) Ixobrychus cinnamomeus (LO) One at Sorong Australian Ibis (A White I) Threskiornis molucca Three on Salawati Osprey Pandion haliaetus One or two on Numfor, Batanta and Salawati Crested Hawk (Pacific Baza) Aviceda subcristata Scattered ones and twos across all lowlands Long-tailed Buzzard (L-t Honey-Buzzard) Henicopernis longicauda Three in the Arfaks Whistling Kite Haliastur sphenurus One near Lake Sentani Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus Up to three seen most days in lowlands White-bellied Sea Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster Two near Lake Sentani and several around Batanta and Salawati Papuan Harrier Circus spilothorax Three over grasslands around Lake Habbema Variable Goshawk (Varied G) Accipiter hiogaster Ones and twos across lowlands including several white morph birds Grey-headed Goshawk Accipiter poliocephalus One displaying on Makbon Road Collared Sparrowhawk Accipiter cirrocephalus One soaring below Lake Habbema 17 Birdquest Tour Report: West Papua