WEST PAPUA TOUR REPORT

Transcription

1 WEST PAPUA 30 JULY 28 AUGUST 2010 TOUR REPORT LEADER: GUY DUTSON West Papua is famous for its amazing birds of paradise in beautiful but inaccessible scenery. We had great views of some of the best birds in the world, notably the stunning Wilson s Bird of Paradise (perhaps the best bird in the world!), the huge Victoria and Western Crowned Pigeons (perhaps more classy than Wilson s), Macgregor s Bird of Paradise in superb montane scenery, Blue-black Kingfisher so confiding after much effort, and we were the first tour to see the amazing Numfor Paradise Kingfisher. Papua has the reputation of being Birdquest s hardest tour not just because of the steep muddy walks but also because the birds are shy, often rare and just simply hard work. Our group had the determination to complete the walks without complaining, or at least without complaining too much, even when the paths traversed vertiginous slopes or were criss-crossed with trip hazards, and even when it rained and the paths turned into mud-slides. This dedication enabled us to see our most-wanted species, including 19 birds of paradise, a series of north-coast endemics and 31 species of West Papuan endemics: Red-billed Brush-turkey, Snow Mountain Quail, Western Crowned Pigeon, Biak Red Lory, Geelvink Pygmy Parrot, Salvadori s Fig-Parrot, Biak and Numfor Paradise Kingfishers, Vogelkop Scrub-wren, Biak Gerygone, Biak Monarch, Biak Black Flycatcher, Smoky Robin, Green-backed Robin, Lorentz s and Vogelkop Whistlers, Olive-crowned Flowerpecker, Biak White-eye, Orange-cheeked, Rufous-sided and Western Smoky Honeyeaters, Short-bearded and Vogelkop Melidectes, Black-breasted and Western Alpine Mannikins, Vogelkop Bowerbird, Longtailed Paradigalla, Arfak Astrapia, Western Parotia, Wilson s and Red Birds of Paradise. In total, we recorded 329 species, mostly regional forest endemics. From various points around the world, we assembled in Jakarta. We had a long wait before the flight to Biak, so we started to get to know each other over a leisurely lunch, then went birding to Maura Angke and adjacent ponds and coast. Most of us had birded Java before and we enjoyed a relaxed afternoon of familiar and forgotten Asian birds including Javan Plover, Black Bittern and variously dayglo dyed munias. The tour proper started in Biak, where we arrived soon after dawn and where the airport hanger full of uniformed local porters made us believe that we had reached somewhere exciting. After checking into our hotel, we ignored our sleepless nights on the plane to depart immediately for the field and spend the rest of the day walking tracks in the rain in logged forest. An ongoing highlight was the 1 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

2 total of about ten Biak Paradise Kingfishers which usually flew past out of sight but sometimes perched confidingly, showing a variety of tail streamers. Through the day, we were rewarded by a number of regional endemics such as Variable Goshawks, Great and Slender-billed Cuckoo-Doves gave good fly-past views, Superb and Claret-breasted Fruit-Doves hid in dense foliage, and Eclectus Parrot and Channel-billed Cuckoos flew over. In the forest, many Red-capped Flowerpeckers showed well, Hooded Butcherbirds were conspicuously common and vocal, a Brush Cuckoo perched to offer good views, a Black-browed Triller showed briefly and several of the endemic Long-tailed Starlings were seen. The other Biak endemics were three Biak Red Lories flying past and good views of a Biak Black Flycatcher when we returned to the cars. Several Biak Coucals were heard and stalked but remained characteristically invisible in dense treetops. Other commoner birds seen on our first day included Glossy Swiftlet, Sacred Kingfisher, Rainbow Bee-eater, Dollarbird, Pacific Swallow, Willie Wagtail, Black and Yellow-bellied Sunbirds, Willie Wagtail, Metallic Starling, Spangled Drongo and the introduced Sooty-headed Bulbul We had a full day on Biak and spent the morning on a different trail in the same area. It was still raining and the birding was slow but we found a couple of mixed species flocks. In the first, four Biak Gerygones were a good find, gleaning unobtrusively in the canopy, alongside some gaudy Golden Monarchs (of the orange race kordensis), Northern Fantails, Biak Black and Shining Flycatchers and several Black-browed Trillers. The second flock had a few flycatchers and monarchs and then we were amazed to find a Biak Monarch a really rare and beautiful surprise. Alas, it disappeared before everyone could see it, so we vowed to stay until it returned and asked our guides to return to town to bring us lunch. We entertained ourselves by finding splendid Emperor Fairy Wrens but soon after the monarch returned and we were all enjoying views of this endangered species which has been seen in the field less than ten times before. Waiting for lunch, we found a flock of Biak Red Lories which gave great scope views together with Rainbow Lorikeets in a large flowering tree. Brahminy Kites, a perched Crested Hawk and three Hooded Pittas were also seen. After lunch on a nearby hillside, we stopped in some open forest, vaguely looking for white-eyes but distracted by the weird ant-plants and weaver ants. We then returned to the hotel and out to the west to look for forest suitable for scops-owls. The forest was very patchy and we were caught in heavy rain but we found a perfectlystreamed paradise-kingfisher and saw several fruit bats but no night-birds. On our next day, we felt as if we had had enough sleep to tackle some of the missing Biak endemics, and we spent a productive few hours beside a forest clearing. Numerous small passerines included a pair of the local subspecies of Cicadabird. We then found a small group of Geelvink Pygmy Parrots which gave wonderfully close views as they fed in small roadside trees what special birds! In the clearing, we found a perched Spice Imperial Pigeon, after having heard a few on the previous days, beside Eclectus Parrots and a couple of Red-cheeked Parrots flew over. Satisfied with our morning s work, we left early to search the scrub on the way back to town for Biak White-eye. After a couple of short walks yielded only sunbirds, a pair of white-eyes appeared right next to us and gave great views. All was now set for our sea crossing to Numfor. No bird tour had been to Numfor and we were in unchartered territory. Once we had coaxed the boat s impressive rack of motors into life, we cruised along the coast of Biak and its Crested Terns. In deeper water, distant seabirds included frigatebirds, Brown Boobies and Brown Noddies, while a few Wedge-tailed Shearwaters sheared close to the boat. Arriving on Numfor, we were happy to find a clean room for everyone in the island s only guesthouse, then boarded our open truck to search the island for its kingfisher. Driving across this quiet undeveloped island, dogs asleep on the road, passing small wooden homes and village volleyball teams, we had found peace. Then a Numfor Paradise Kingfisher perched beside the road and the life was complete. It was a truly superb bird, super-saturated blue with a red bill and white streamered tail. We also added Uniform Swiftlet and Torresian Crow to our list and returned home happy. The next morning, we birded a stretch of forested road where Spice Imperial Pigeon, Claret-breasted, Superb and White-breasted Fruit Doves were seen well by all but Emerald Ground Dove and Yellow- 2 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

3 bibbed Fruit Dove only showed to a few. Many Sulphur-crested Cockatoos, Eclectus Parrots and Geelvink Pygmy Parrots were seen. Amongst the passerines, we had good views of Biak Black Flycatcher and also a surprise Island Monarch. Unsurprisingly, the Numfor Paradise Kingfishers stole the show, with a total of seven seen, including three together in a tree, alternatively calling and cocking their long white tails. After returning and checking out of the guesthouse, we drove to another wharf, stopping to see three Biak Megapodes which had been snared by a villager. Next time, we will have to offer a reward to see this rare bird in the field, not the hand. The return boat trip was long but we passed a small pod of Spinner Dolphins and then saw several flocks of Bridled Terns and Black Noddies. We stopped on a small island and found a Grey Plover and four Eastern Reef Egrets but were happy to finally reach Biak. Many of us summoned up the energy to go out again looking for Biak Scops-Owl which, as usual, remained silent and hidden. After an early morning flight, we were on mainland New Guinea for the first time. We quickly checked into the hotel and went out birding to around Lake Sentani but the lake was full and we found no waterbirds. After a few roadside stops, which included good views of Blue-tailed Bee-eater, we found a new trail into a forest patch where, despite the late hour, we found a number of birds including New Guinea Friarbirds, a couple of Long-billed Honeyeaters and a Black Cuckoo-Shrike. A Red-throated Myzomela feeding in mistletoe was a rarely-seen species but the calling Lesser Birds of Paradise remained out of sight. Before lunch we drove along a road through grassland and found several interesting birds, notably a Fawn-breasted Bowerbird which perched up for good views and both Pheasant and Lesser Black Coucals. A pair of Grand Mannikins were very dapper, and a Crimson Finch might indicate a new population from cage-bird escapes. A tiny muddy pond sheltered a Buff-banded Rail and a White-browed Crake. White-shouldered Fairy Wrens showed well in bushes but a Pied Chat was much more distant. After lunch and a rest in the heat, we returned to these grasslands, first driving along the lake shore, where we found Great and Intermediate Egrets and several Channel-billed Cuckoos. We then walked through some suitable looking grasslands looking for quail and were rewarded by a total of four King Quail and a Golden-headed Cisticola offering reasonable flush-views. Singing Starlings perched on the wires and a Long-tailed Nightjar performed for some at dusk. On the next morning we flew to Wamena, the portal town for the fabled Baliem Valley of New Guinea s central mountains. We were met by Scorpio, our Papuan guide, and waited in town for the final supplies to be loaded and the vehicles to start the drive up the towering mountains. We stopped to pick up our porters from a nearby village where we found a flock of the endemic Black-breasted Mannikin, and a Papuan Harrier was seen nearby. The road soon became a steep climb up through forest and we stopped at a couple of points to wander the road and look for birds in the midday heat. We started to become familiar with the remarkably common and pugnacious Belford s Melidectes, Brown-breasted Gerygones were seen in treetops and a couple of Plum-faced Lorikeets gave reasonable views. Four Great Woodswallows entertained overhead but the best sightings were of the endemic Lorentz s Whistler. The vehicles crossed one precarious stream crossing but stopped at the next stream, from where we had lunch and walked along the road then across swampy grasslands to our camp. One or two Papuan Harriers were seen today and each subsequent day in these grasslands. Passerines included the endemic Orange-cheeked Honeyeater, the more widespread Black-throated and Grey-streaked Honeyeaters, the gem-like Red-collared Myzomela, the Blackbirdlike Island Thrush and the best was a flock of New Guinea Thornbills. Having settled into what looked like a luxurious camp, we tried birding along the lake shore but it was cold and overcast and little was seen. Our night in tents under tarpaulins was cold but comfortable. The next day we set off early in search of the fabled Macgregor s Bird of Paradise. We walked along the shore of Lake Habbema, seeing at least four Salvadori s Teals with several Pacific Black Ducks and Eurasian Coots. Climbing a small hill with good views into the scattered conifers, our guides very quickly spotted a Macgregor s Bird of Paradise and we spent the next two hours obtaining repeated views of at least three of these remarkable birds. Even though we now know that it is actually a 3 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

4 honeyeater, it remains an iconic rare and beautiful bird of New Guinea s highest mountains. This hillside was alive with bird activity and we also had great views of Fan-tailed Cuckoos, Common Smoky Honeyeaters, White-winged Robin and several of the amazingly plumaged Crested Berrypeckers, and brief views of the less common Short-bearded and Sooty Melidectes. Highlights were good views of Plum-faced Lorikeets, at least two Orange-billed Lorikeets and a wonderful Painted Tiger-Parrot. A Snow Mountain Quail was seen briefly on the hillside and we formed a line to walk across the nearby grasslands in the hope of flushing another. We flushed nothing in the first grassland but found two rats in the next grassland and persuaded our guides to catch then for identification photographs. Soon after, Douglas and Scorpio flushed a magnificent male Snow Mountain Quail, and then Louis and Doug flushed another quail. After lunch we closed the camp and walked to a new campsite beside the road above the Ibele trail. Walking further up the road, we found a range of commoner birds and some Alpine Pipits. In the evening we waited in hope for a flypast and were rewarded by good views of a roding New Guinea Woodcock. On our last day at these highest altitudes, we birded the first 500m of the Ibele Trail. A Snow Mountain Quail flushed from the forest edge and two Macgregor s Bird of Paradise were seen very briefly. The star bird of the day was a Lesser Melampitta which stood openly on the path next to use on several occasions, allowing everyone excellent views of this skulking velvety pitta, sometimes classified in with birds of paradise. Around the melampitta we also had good views of Dimorphic, Black and Friendly Fantails. Further down the valley a Greater Ground-Robin was singing but remained resolutely out of sight. We then searched the grasslands beyond our camp for Eastern Alpine Mannikins, our only missing West Papuan grassland endemic. After an hour, we saw some very distant mannikins and tracked them down to have excellent views of several flocks, as well as very confiding Alpine Pipits and a Brown Falcon. Back at camp, a pair of Papuan Grassbirds performed well, sitting up on tree-ferns, and we had better views of both Short-bearded and Sooty Melidectes. After lunch, we walked along the road into high-altitude dark and dank oak forest. Birds were sparse but a Mountain Mouse-Warbler hopped out and foraged in the open. A couple of Brehm s Tiger-Parrots were found high in the forest canopy as were a flock of the uncommon Black Sittella. The light rain became proper rain and we walked back to camp, having brief views of a Mountain Robin. In the evening, the New Guinea Woodcock showed briefly and we were in real luck when Jonathan spotted a silent Mountain Nightjar cruising past. This morning, we left the plateau for a day of montane forest birding which was slow and sparse, perhaps because of the dry weather, but another pair of Lesser Melampittas showed briefly beside the trail. A couple of Narrow-striped Marsupial-shrews were our first mammals in these forests which are very much dominated by a wide divergence of birds. Lower down, as the trees became taller, we had reasonable views of a Yellow-billed Lorikeet, a couple of and Hooded Cuckoo-Shrikes, a flock of Black-bellied Cuckoo-Shrikes and a pair of Papuan Treecreepers. Amongst the small birds, we picked out Large and Buff-faced Scrub-wrens, and splendidly plumaged Black-breasted Boatbills were gems. Along one precarious stretch of path, we manoeuvred carefully to obtain views of pair of Torrent- Larks perched over the river, and a Fan-tailed Berrypecker perched nearby. Single Splendid Astrapias were seen flying high over the steep river valley and some saw a Brown Sicklebill close to camp. In the afternoon, we searched for King of Saxony Birds of Paradise, which called distantly but failed to come up to their ridge top calling trees. We split up to watch different trees and Jonathan found a pair of Goldie s Lorikeets. We slept in an atmospheric camp isolated in deep forest and were entertained by our porters home-making activities, including plenty of warming fires. The next morning was dedicated to birds of paradise, and we waited at a couple of King of Saxony singing trees. There was some activity of birds of non-paradise, of which the highlight was a Blackmantled Goshawk flying past, and most of us had reasonable views of Splendid Astrapias. We did see female and immature male King of Saxony Birds of Paradise and then at the last moment, after we had closed camp and were walking down, we saw a fantastic fully-plumaged male complete with twitching antennae. We were then happily satisfied to leave, enjoying a clear forest trail which 4 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

5 became steeper and then precipitous down to a river where we stopped for lunch. The next section was steep back uphill, through some more level forest where we saw Tit Berrypecker, then we rested by the forest edge. Here there was plenty of bird activity, including Blue-grey Robin, Mountain Meliphaga and Common Golden Whistler. The light rain however intensified into a birdless downpour and we set off for our night s accommodation down the valley. Our first task was to descend a very muddy sweet potato patch down to a beautifully constructed wood, bamboo and vine swing bridge. It was perhaps lucky that we didn t know how far we had to walk, as we took an interest in the local villagers and their live, the few birds venturing out in the rain, and kept walking. It was starting to become dark when we all finally reached the church house that was to be our hotel. Once we had dried off, the house did us well, complete with a common room and an outhouse, and we were again very grateful to our porters for filling us with hot drinks and food. Our final day of walking dawned fine and we loitered in the church house garden watching Ornate Melidectes. Our walking trail was now well-worn along a shallow gradient, and the visibility was clear to see many flocks of Black-breasted Munias and some variably distant Western Mountain White-eyes. We stopped at a small forest patch where the early morning sunshine attracted bird activity including Tit Berrypeckers and Papuan Sittellas, while Papuan and Yellow-billed Lorikeets flew past. Further down the trail, a Blue-grey Robin perched in the open, Black-billed Cuckoo-Doves jostled in small trees and mixed flocks of Island Leaf Warblers and Western Mountain White-eyes buzzed past. After a few miles of easy downhill walking, passing a few Pied Chats and Common Golden Whistlers, we had lunch at a large river, accompanied by swimming porters and Salvadori s Teals. We bade farewell to the 22 porters who had worked hard to provide us with such comfort in the mountains, then walked the final two kilometres to the road and vehicles. A female Superb Bird of Paradise perched in the open, and Spotted and Marbled Honeyeaters shared the same tree, adding another three species to the trip on this section of the walk. After a short drive, we were back in Wamena town and had a couple of hours free to relax or shop for penis-gourds. From Wamena, we took an early morning flight back to Sentani, re-packing bags at the hotel and then off to Nimbokrang. We stopped at our same forest patch beside Lake Sentani for a couple of hours where we had brief views of a Jobi Manucode perched out showing its relatively short tail. A small flock of Variable Pitohuis gave reasonable views and a White-bellied Thicket-Fantail gave many fleeting views. Mistletoe clumps were visited by Mistletoebirds, Mimic Melipahagas, Yellowbellied and Black Sunbirds and one Pygmy Honeyeater. In small mixed flocks, Buff-faced Pygmy Parrots gave fleeting views, we found a Rufous-collared Monarch and a Green-backed Gerygone as well as many species seen here previously. The other highlight was great views of a pair of uncommon Gurney s Eagles which soared low overhead on a couple of occasions. Further along the road, we stopped briefly a few times, seeing Pacific Black Ducks and excellent views of Moustached Tree Swifts and on the edge of the village, we found a splendid all-white Variable Goshawk. Our local guides, Jamil and Dante, had constructed a camp deep within the forest and we were soon walking along this lowland forest trail. We paused at a bird of paradise display branch and were very lucky to see a male Twelve-wired Bird of Paradise and a Glossy-mantled Manucode (of a different shape to this morning s Jobi) briefly pop up in clear view. Over camp, there was an evening flight of about 20 Blyth s Hornbills before we settled into out forest home and the sounds of two Papuan Boobooks trying to call above the cacophony of frogs and insects. First thing in the morning, we birded slowly back along the path towards the display area where the male Twelve-wired Bird of Paradise soon climbed up for a quick display but with no females in attendance, soon slipped away. Nearby, several male Lesser Birds of Paradise were displaying and we had good views of many immature birds wailing for attention. A pair of huge Channel-billed Cuckoos perched up in some sort of treetop display and a Spot-winged Monarch showed well by the path. Back to a massive parrot tree, we were soon watching several Salvadori s Fig-Parrots and Brown Lories, both uncommon west Papuan endemics, alongside several rainbow Lorikeets a pair of Yellowfaced Mynas. A few Red-flanked Lorikeets and Western Black-capped Lories flew over now and on 5 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

6 most of the next few days without showing themselves through the dense high canopy. On to our next target, Blue-black Kingfisher, which swooped past us on a number of occasions but never perched in view, but a Rufous-bellied Kookaburra behaved much better and offered great looks at this splendid bird. Among the smaller birds, Boyer s and Black Cuckoo-Shrikes gave good views, while a small flock of Rufous Babblers skulked and offered swore at us from the dense undergrowth. Our final main target species, a male King Bird of Paradise, called occasionally and was clearly somewhere in his favoured tree but finding this remarkably small bird took some perseverance. When we caught him in the scope, this exquisite red ball with funky eyebrows and green tail-snails was just amazing. Back along another trail, a Black-sided Robin perched out for reasonable views but Rusty Pitohuis generally remained elusive among the more confiding Little Shrike-Thrushes. Plainer fair during the day was provided by Plain Honeyeater and Yellow-bellied Gerygones, and we were very grateful that this infamously uncomfortable place turned out to be quite comfortable with no mosquitoes and no sweaty heat! Our last morning in the forest saw returning to the Lesser Birds of Paradise which today included excellent views of a full-plumed male, but the Twelve-wired failed to show. We spent most of the morning chasing a Pale-billed Sicklebill which was called for a while from a dense tree, moving regularly about different trees. This proved a huge frustration to see but a consolation were views of huge Palm Cockatoos flapping slowly past. Returning towards camp, we found a Mimic Meliphaga and a tall fruiting fig tree which held at least 20 Orange-bellied Fruit Doves. Another Pale-billed Sicklebill started calling and we rushed back to spend a while looking intently as this bird flew back and forth, often glimpsing it in flight and occasionally when perched. Grateful that we had at least seen it, we returned to the village for a late lunch, and enjoying great views of Buff-faced Pygmy Parrots on the return walk. In the afternoon, we drove up into the nearby hills, stopping for great views of a massive Papuan Frogmouth on its minimal nest. Dante directed us to a cleared roadside which offered reasonable views over forested hills where we had regularly seen Vulturine Parrots. We saw several Sulphur-crested Cockatoos and Eclectus Parrots, had reasonable views of Pinon Imperial Pigeons, and saw our first Papuan Mountain Pigeons. A Long-tailed Buzzard flapped past, several Papuan Spine-tailed Swifts joined the swiftlets, a flock of Grey Crows hung around and several flocks of typically high-flying Dusky Lories screeched high overhead. A highlight was close flight and perched views of beautiful Golden Mynas and, just before it became dark, three magnificent Vulturine Parrots flew past as requested. Along the road before dawn, a Papuan Hawk-Owl called deep in the forest, and we were ready to at first light to search for Victoria Crowned Pigeons, a species never seen previously by Birdquest. This rarely-used trail started through logged forest where most of us saw a pair of Dusky Megapodes creep off. Deeper into primary forest, we walked along a ridge as the sun was rising, found a calling Black Butcherbird, searched for hidden calling Dwarf Koels, and saw a Sooty Thicket-fantail as it furtively flitted about the sparse understorey. We waited for Jamil and Dante to stalk after crowned-pigeons, finding few birds except for great views of magnificent Wompoo Fruit-doves. Meanwhile, Dante had flushed some crowned pigeons and we rapidly crept forwards. Suddenly a male Pale-billed Sicklebill appeared in full view in front of us and we all feasted on these great views before reaching another hillside where we waited for Dante to re-find the pigeons. An Olive Flycatcher sang beside us but the forest was generally quiet and we were resigning ourselves to failure when Dante found the pigeons yet again and we crept ever so quietly to a specific spot perched on a steep hill from where we could view a superb Victoria Crowned Pigeon through a gap in the leaves. It stayed for us all to gawp at its beauty and bulk before flapping off into oblivion. In this same spot some of us also glimpsed a Brown-collared Brush-turkey and Common Paradise Kingfisher before we returned happily. Halfway back, a female Magnificent Riflebird flew in and perched in the middle-distance, and a male Magnificent Bird of Paradise also appeared and offered excellent views, showing tail-streamers and all. Along the final section of the trail, a Stephan s Ground Dove flushed up and Lesser Black Coucal shuffled off before we ended this most successful walk and returned for a late lunch back in the village. In the mid-afternoon, some of us went out into the village fields and had good views of 6 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

7 Streak-headed Mannikins and also a White-browed Crake, and we all saw an Australian Hobby on the edge of the forest. A couple of short stops on drive home included a viewpoint with some distant pigeons and parrots before we were back at the hotel and the lottery of finding our stored luggage and a preferred room. In the early morning, some of us returned to our forest patch which was surprisingly birdy, starting with a Whistling Kite and Large-billed Gerygone along the road. The Variable Pitohuis were still present, this time with some Hooded Pitohuis and we finally had good enough views to confirm Green-backed Honeyeater. A single Streak-headed Honeyeater and Meyer s Friarbird perched up for views and we spent a long time watching and listening to manucodes, ensuring that we were happy with the identification of both Jobi and Glossy-mantled Manucodes. We returned to the grasslands, where we found Hooded as well as Grand Mannikins, excellent views of Lesser Black Coucal and heard a Rufous-tailed Bush-hen. We then booked into our flight to Sorong which was delayed and only departed after a long lingered lunch in the airport restaurant. At Sorong, we met John and Yoris. We were soon on our boat to Batanta which was only an hour and a half with a big set of outboard motors. Inshore seabirds included little more than Crested Terns but we paused off Senapang island and found several good birds from the swaying boat. A White-bellied Sea Eagle soared overhead, a White-breasted Woodswallow swooped around, Spice Imperial Pigeons flew about rather distantly and we saw several Great-billed Parrots in flight and perched on the highest point of the island. We arrived at our seaside chalet in Batanta as it was getting dusk and spent the evening debating wakeup times, choosing sleeping spaces and becoming acquainted with Yoris s cooking. Guy passed on the spam but woke in the night to find that the quiet cooking hut had a leaking roof. Some woke at three in the morning to be sure of reaching the end of the muddy mountain trail and its Wilson s Bird of Paradise by dawn. Despite the advance party making little initial progress and the path being as steep and muddy as anticipated, we kept together and made it to the top in time for Guy to rebuild the blinds and everyone take their seats by dawn. Soon after, our bird called and in the half-light we saw a bright blue patch, yellow patch, red patch and a whole male Wilson s Bird of Paradise. It was a truly amazing bird, and we were delighted to spend hours watching as it came and went, calling, clearing its court and ruffling its feathers. The only other species seen from our blind was Little Shrike Thrush but as soon as started our victorious descent, we were watching a skittish Common Paradise Kingfisher and two splendid Frilled Monarchs. Further along the trail we saw more Common Paradise Kingfishers and then a mixed flock which included another Wilson s Bird of Paradise, at least one female Red Bird of Paradise, and Brown Oriole and White-bellied Cuckoo- Shrike. Hot and sticky by the time we returned for a late lunch, many of us indulged in a refreshing snorkel over the reef just off our veranda. We rested through the heat then went in search of Red Bird of Paradise. A Palm Cockatoo flew past our house and we had many good views of Pinon Imperial Pigeon on the walk into the hills behind the village. Here we also saw Pink-spotted Fruit Doves, a Purple-tailed Imperial Pigeon and some reasonable views of a variety of plumages of Red Bird of Paradise. As evening advanced, we played hide-and-seek with a Yellow-bellied Longbill and saw some impressive pre-roost flocks of Eclectus Parrots, before rain closed play and we returned home. At a more sociable pre-dawn hour we boarded the boat for Salawati. Having picked up our guide, we arrived in the half-light to see a pair of White-headed Shelduck. We set off along some narrow logging trails, again in search of crowned pigeons. A Black-sided Robin offered excellent views and a Red-necked Crake popped in and out of swampy undergrowth. Our first major success was hearing a Red-billed Brush-turkey close to the path, waiting and seeing this impossible skulker walk across the path. A splendid jewel of a Yellow-billed Kingfisher took some finding but a pair of dowdy Rusty Mouse-Warblers were uncharacteristically anxious to be seen, repeatedly perching out. Then we heard the long-awaited sound of a crowned pigeon flushing up into the trees and crept off to find it. We spent a couple of hours combing that patch of forest, eventually having great views of four Western Crowned Pigeons which proved adept at hiding. A few Rusty Pitohuis were also seen and an excellent mixed flock included Black Berrypecker, Yellow-breasted Boatbill, Pale-billed Scrub-wren 7 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

8 and Fairy Gerygone. While watching this flock, we also found a Blue-black Kingfisher which perched long enough for everyone to have good scope views and seconds, a vast improvement on the shy Nimbokrang birds. After all of these good birds, we returned to the beach and back to guest house for lunch, seeing a White-bellied Sea Eagle on route. In the afternoon, we returned to the Red Birds of Paradise, which performed better, giving us good views of fully-plumed males quite magnificent but sadly overshadowed by the Wilson s up the hill. There was a similar array of pigeons and parrots, and at dusk we had excellent close views of a Red-bellied Pitta. We waited until dark when Marbled Frogmouths started calling and we were in luck, soon spot-lighting a frogmouth at close range. On our final morning, we returned to Salawati, looking for overflying pigeons and parrots. There were no suitable clearings but we stood at the mouth of a small river and did see many of the commoner species flying past. Two Zoe Imperial Pigeons were seen amongst many Pinon Imperial Pigeons, and a couple of Papuan Hanging-parrot sightings were a real bonus between the passing flocks of Rainbow Lorikeets. A Crested Hawk sailed over, a Common Sandpiper passed along the beach and we had good views of an uncommon Great-billed Heron. Our first target in the forest was a Black Thicket-fantail which had been heard yesterday. Eventually, we all had good views of this skulking bird, and went off chasing Greater Black Coucals which had also been heard yesterday. A coucal hiding in a tree was encouraged to show itself, and we also found Grey-headed Whistler and Yellow-bellied Longbill in the nearby forest, and Dwarf and Azure Kingfishers around a small river mouth. We had seen more or less all of our target birds except for some pigeons and parrots, so we moved up the coast to try a second forest trail. This proved less successful but an (Eastern) Osprey sailed over the beach as we watched a sad episode of shark finning. After packing, we cruised back to Sorong via a walk on Senapang Island. On this island we looked hard for Beach Kingfisher, flushing one which eventually came back to its favoured tree, and had some better views of this subspecies of Spice Imperial Pigeon. Other birds remained difficult to see before our visit was curtailed by some serious rain. We were drenched and the downpours continued for much of the return journey to Sorong but we did manage to see Indo-Pacific Bottle-nosed Dolphins and some Common Terns. The hotel and hot shower was very welcome after days of bathing in a stream and the sea. We flew to Manokwari the next day but had time for some quick birding around some swampy grassland just outside the airport. This was remarkably good, yielding good views of Buff-banded Rail, Black-backed (Australasian) Swamphen and White-browed Crake creeping about the shallows, several Cinnamon Bitterns which appear to be a recent colonist, an adult Australian Reed-Warbler feeding a fledgling, a Barn Swallow flying among the more familiar Pacific Swallows, and a fly-over Sharp-tailed Sandpiper. The flight gave us spectacular views of the seemingly endless forest of the Arfaks before we landed and headed for a supermarket. Investing an hour in shopping seemed to be the best way of ensuring a good diet for the next week, so we scoured the shop for birder s luxuries, like the herbal tea which was later discovered to be an infusion of laxatives. Filling up two impressively new vehicles, we drove up the Mokwom road, had lunch at a forest viewpoint and spent the afternoon birding along the road. Small fruiting trees held flocks of Black-fronted White-eyes and Scrub White-eared Meliphagas, and we soon had good views of Olive-crowned Flowerpecker. Papuan Mountain Pigeons flew over today and each subsequent day, and Magnificent Riflebirds were heard calling. We were lucky to find a large mixed passerine flock which kept us entertained sorting through warblers and scrubwrens, and finding a pair of the scarce and pretty Wallace s Fairy-Wrens. This flock also contained a few Pygmy Honeyeaters, New Guinea s smallest bird and a new species for the Birdquest in West Papua. Further down, a Mountain Peltops offered up some plumage quality but Tawny-breasted Honeyeaters were as dull as a new New Guinea bird can be. We then had to drive on to the guest house, sort out our bags and sleeping arrangements, and walk back up the road. With the help of Agus, our local guide, we had good views of our first Arfak endemics a couple of Western Smoky Honeyeaters, a female Western Parotia and good perched views of a very smart Vogelkop Melidectes. Just before returning at dusk, a Vulturine Parrot flew over, but offering such poor views that we were fortunate to have seen them before. 8 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

9 We left in the dark to be at the Magnificent Bird of Paradise hide before dawn. A Sooty Owl called but remained hidden. At the hide, the MagBoP showed itself a little but not the fantastic views of the Wilson s BoP, one group were very lucky to see a Wattled Brush-turkey wander past, and some people saw a Black Pitohui. We then spent a while trying to get to grips with the mouse-warblers which were incredibly difficult to see but we eventually all had convincing views of Bicoloured Mouse-Warbler. Walking back up to the village, we also saw Grey-green Scrub-wren and a Rufousthroated Bronze-cuckoo. After lunch, we moved out and walked up to our hut camp deep in the forests above. We soon saw some Vogelkop Scrub-wrens which proved to be common but it took a while to have really good views. A mixed flock held a White-eared Bronze-Cuckoo, several Black and Friendly and a few Dimorphic Fantails, a Black-breasted Boatbill and a Mid-mountain Berrypecker. The flock also had a Vogelkop Whistler, another regional endemic and a Spotted Berrypecker, quite an unusual species. Although it was afternoon, we spent a couple of hours in the hides and different groups either saw a female or immature Western Parotia or a Vogelkop Bowerbird or nothing. We settled into our camp which was a simple series of wooden beds under a tarpaulin roof and next to the original Garden House hut which now accommodated a happy band of guides, porters, cooks and onlookers. Another early start saw us trekking uphill towards Gunung Nadim. We reached an old campsite at dawn and waited. Soon we heard our target species, a Black Sicklebill, and quickly climbed further to find it. The sicklebill was moving rapidly down the mountain and only a few of us managed brief views. The stretch of trail just before the camp proved to be full of interesting birds of which the highlight were a total of four Arfak Astrapias, a species usually restricted to the highest altitudes. Cinnamon-browed Melidectes called all around and occasional ventured into view, and a Brehm s Tiger Parrot and a Chestnut-breasted Cuckoo briefly popped up. Some trees were in flower and attracting flocks of Papuan, Yellow-billed and Plum-faced Lorikeets and a few Red-collared Myzomelas. We had several good views of Lesser Ground Robin, and on the way down saw a couple of Garnet Robins and several Black-throated Robins. Agus showed us a couple of Vogelkop Bowerbird bowers, a true wonder of the avian world. These big constructions were superbly crafted and tended, with varied arrays of forest gems, mostly berries and beetle elytrae on a spotlessly clean front yard. Awesome. Further along our descent back to camp, a Rufescent Imperial Pigeon was a good find and a pair of Papuan Treecreepers showed very well. The weather became rainy and several people opted to visit the hides and were amply rewarded by views of an immature Western Parotia in partial display, showing off tracts of hidden white finery. The others walked in search of Long-tailed Paradigallas. On this walk, several White-breasted Fruit Doves perched in good view whereas a family of Orange-crowned Fairy-wrens did their best to pass out of sight. We spent a long time tracking down a Smoky Robin before we had good views of this fine songster, and a Greenbacked Robin popped out for a brief good look. Among the small passerines, we found Grey Gerygones and had better views of many Tit Berrypeckers but the chances of paradigallas were dampened by the rain and we returned for lunch. In the afternoon, some people returned to the hides or remained around camp, others tried again for paradigallas. Those in the hides were again rewarded by Western Parotias and around camp a good series of birds were seen including good views of the endemic Rufous-sided Honeyeater, Sclater s Whistler, Streak-headed Mannikin, and some people saw an Oriental Hobby and a Meyer s Goshawk. Even better, Agus found a Mountain Owlet-nightjar close to camp and we all feasted on point-blank views of this cutest of birds. Meanwhile, the paradigalla group saw Canary Flycatchers and, just on cue, a Long-tailed Paradigalla flew across the valley and perched for us. This can be a tricky bird to find and is virtually never seen away from this site, so we were well satisfied with our efforts. On our final day in the mountains, some returned to the high altitudes of Gunung Nadim in search of Black Sicklebill, others returned to the paradigalla site with Agus. We heard at least one sicklebill calling and spent a couple of hours pursuing it to and waiting at the few vantage points along the path, and eventually we all had good views of a spectacularly large and long-tailed male Black 9 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

10 Sicklebill. We saw a range of the commoner birds and had good views of an acrobatic Red-bellied Marsupial-Shrew in this beautiful mossy forest. On the descent, an unusual song drew us into a pair of Black Pitohuis, and an Ashy Robin singing beside the path decided to cooperate and perch in the open for us all. The paradigalla group were also very happy with their decision as they all had excellent views of four Long-tailed Paradigallas, a great reward for tramping the muddy paths. After lunch, we walked back to the village, birding along an alternative route in search of robins. Despite the very shy nature of New Guinea robins, we found them: good views of Blue-grey Robin then better views of a Smoky Robin, and finally good views of Green-backed Robins. Nearing the village, we walked through secondary forest which harboured many common small birds, including a Whiteeared Bronze-cuckoo, and we all had good views of a pair of Bicoloured Mouse-Warblers which even perched in the open. After camping in the cold, the village house was very welcoming and the village river lured many of us for a bath. We rested, had dinner, then went out spot-lighting up the road. A series of Papuan Boobooks called and ignored the tape but eventually we found one, high in a roadside tree, and returned satisfied. Having done well with the high altitude endemics, we had a whole day to explore the midelevations. We walked down the road until the afternoon when we arranged for a lift back to the village. The first stretch of the road was remarkably quite, the first bird of note being a Bronze Ground-Dove which flew across the road. Some fruiting trees around a small garden were however full of birds, including some male Western Parotias among eight females, and a female Superb Bird of Paradise. Moluccan King Parrots crept around in the canopy, sometimes exposing the finery of their plumage, and a Marbled Honeyeater was a new bird amongst the plainer species. Brain found a Mountain Drongo perched at the back of the garden, and we had excellent views of a singing Dwarf Whistler, a very smart little bird of poorly-known taxonomic affinities. Happy to have seen so many new species, we walked further until we were stopped by the fluorescent streak of a Flame Bowerbird crossing the road. We waited around a favoured stretch of road and had several sightings, including scope views, of this unbelievably bright bird which should be split from the southern watershed lowland birds as Masked Bowerbird. While waiting for the bowerbirds to re-appear, we found ourselves beside a small flowering tree alive with nectarivorous birds. It was buzzing with myzomelas, mostly females but we found a few males of Mountain Red-headed Myzomela, Red Myzomela and Papuan Black Myzomela. It was a fantastic opportunity to see such elusive birds as Dwarf Honeyeaters in the scope, and there were also visits by Mountain Meliphaga, Western Smoky Honeyeater, Spotted Honeyeater and Ornate Melidectes. Our taxi took us back up to the garden, where all was quiet, then to the village but most of us elected to walk the final downhill section. This had many more birds than in the morning, including a Rufous-naped Whistler over the path, a Black Monarch beside the path and flight views of Red-breasted Pygmy-Parrots. Back home, we caught up with John and Jonathan who had decided to chase a male Superb Bird of Paradise which was reported to display in gardens high above the village. After hours of steep walking, they found him and were treated to a personal display. On our final day, we stopped at a couple of vantage points looking and listening, then at the flowering tree. Most of yesterday s honeyeaters were still present, along with a pair of Little Red Lorikeets which were remarkably camouflaged in the red flowers. A couple of Blue-collared Parrots flying high overhead was a new species for those who had not walked the road yesterday. Further down the road, we found another flowering tree, this time with a pair of Josephine s Lorikeets. As we descended in altitude, we started to see some lowland species such as great views of Papuan Hornbills and also a few Hooded Pitohuis in a flock of Variable Pitohuis. Before the heat of midday, we had excellent views of a Vulturine Parrot flying directly over us and the near-miss of the trip when a New Guinea Harpy-eagle called and as we scanned the forest, a pair of Long-tailed Buzzards rose up and soared over us. Fantastic views but of the wrong bird! We then drove into the lowlands and visited a new site, Oransberi, recommended by our guides. It turned out to be a long drive and some access roads had been blocked by a logging company, so we had to find our own birds instead of using the hoped-for bird of paradise hides. Back in steamy lowland forest, we had good views of 10 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

11 Yellow-bellied Longbills, scoped a Rufous-bellied Kookaburra and saw Yellow-capped Pygmy Parrots. A Magnificent Riflebird, our target bird of paradise, called and performed well, flying over us on several occasions. We walked along the main access road, seeing a range of birds flying across the road and a couple of Lowland Peltops perched up to play. In the late afternoon, we left for Manokwari, seeing a Lesser Frigatebird over the coastal road. It was good to be back in a hotel and restaurant but it was suddenly the end of the trip. We had a day of travelling back to Jakarta and home, seeing a Spotted Kestrel at Makassar airport, and having lots of time to reflect on what had been a remarkable tour, a great insight into the wondrous New Guinea and some of the best birds in the world. 11 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

12 SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). CASUARIIDAE [Northern Cassowary Casuarius unappendiculatus: Droppings found at Nimbokrang and Salawati. Hunted and justifiably shy.] PROCELLARIIDAE Wedge-tailed Shearwater Puffinus pacificus: Five and four seen on the crossing from Biak to Numfor. PHAETHONITIDAE Red-tailed Tropicbird Phaethon rubricauda (NL): One seen by Doug between Biak and Numfor. FREGATIDAE Lesser Frigatebird Fregata ariel: One seen from the drive back from Oransberi. About 20 unidentified frigatebirds were seen from the boat trip to Numfor. SULIDAE Brown Booby Sula leucogaster: At least five seen between Biak and Numfor, and another 20 unidentified boobies, and about ten on the return journey. ARDEIDAE Great-billed Heron Ardea sumatrana: One flew past when we were on the shore on Salawati, giving good views of this uncommon bird. Great Egret Egretta alba: Only seen perched in trees near Lake Sentani, where three were seen on both visits. Split by the Australians as Eastern Great Egret Egretta modesta. Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia: Also only seen perched in trees near Lake Sentani, where five were seen on the first visits. Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus (NL): One seen by Brian at Biak airport. Split by the Australians from Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis. Eastern Reef Egret (Pacific Reef Egret) Egretta sacra: Four on Palau Rani between Numfor and Biak, and one off Batanta. Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus: About five seen near the airport at Sorong. This species had not been recorded in New Guinea until about ten years ago, and seems to be a selfcolonist exploiting Indonesian rice paddies and prawn ponds. PANDIONIDAE Osprey Pandion haliaetus: One over Numfor and three over Salawati. Split by the Australians as Eastern Osprey Pandion cristatus. ACCIPITRIDAE Crested Hawk (Pacific Baza) Aviceda subcristata: Singles seen perched on Biak and Salawati. A smart raptor with an unusually upright crest. Long-tailed Buzzard Henicopernis longicauda: One from the Nimbokrang Vulturine Parrot viewpoint then about eight seen in the Arfaks. Also known as Long-tailed Honey Buzzard, its recorded prey items include a variety of insects (also wasps), tree lizards, birds and bird eggs. This genus has a very distinctive wing-shape and is endemic to New Guinea with another species on the Bismarck Archipelago. 12 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

13 Whistling Kite Haliastur sphenurus: Two seen near Lake Sentani by those on the optional pre-sorong visit. A common Australian species of open habitats. Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus: One or two seen at most sites, especially on Batanta and Salawati. White-bellied Sea Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster: One off Senapang Island and one to three seen on most days around Batanta and Salawati. The numbers of these top raptors suggest a healthy reef and forest environment. Papuan Harrier Circus spilothorax: One or two seen each day in the grasslands around Lake Habbema, including some good views of adult males. Beehler et al. lump this in Spotted (or Eastern) Marsh Harrier C. spilonotus but the plumages are quite distinct. Variable Goshawk (Varied Goshawk) Accipiter hiogaster: The common small lowland hawk, with one or two seen at all lowland sites, notably a white morph bird at Nimbokrang. A regional endemic which has other subspecies in east Indonesia and the Melanesia islands. Black-mantled Goshawk Accipiter melanochlamys: One silhouetted bird gliding past us below Yaloye on the Habbema trek. An uncommon species of New Guinea s mountains. Meyer s Goshawk Accipiter meyerianus (NL): One seen by some from the Garden House camp in the Arfaks. Another uncommon montane hawk. New Guinea Harpy Eagle (New Guinea Eagle) Harpyopsis novaeguineae (H): One heard calling from the lower Mokwom road. Gurney s Eagle Aquila gurneyi: A pair soaring low over us in forest near Lake Sentani. This uncommon species is listed as near threatened as each pair needs large tracts of lowland forest. John Henry Gurney ( ) was an English banker, collector and author who also has a pitta and sugarbird named after him. FALCONIDAE Brown Falcon Falco berigora: Two singles seen by various groups near Lake Habbema and on the trek down. Several nice views of this large, rather ungainly falcon on the Lake Habbema trek. Berigora is an Australian aboriginal name for this Australasian species. Oriental Hobby Falco severus (NL): One seen by some from the Garden House camp in the Arfaks. Australian Hobby Falco longipennis: One perched on a tower near Nimbokrang. Not known to nest in New Guinea where all bird are thought to be migrants from Australia. ANATIDAE White-headed Shelduck Tadorna radjah: A pair flew along the coast of Salawati early one morning. Probably this species was also heard and seen flying past Batanta after dark. Salvadori s Teal Anas waigiuensis: At least four were seen on Lake Habbema and three on the river in the Ibele valley. These smart, unusual birds, looking rather similar to torrent ducks, are sometimes placed in the unique genus Salvadorina. Count Adelardo Tommaso Paleotti Salvadori ( ) was an Italian ornithologist also known for his pheasant. Pacific Black Duck Anas superciliosa: Six at Lake Habbema and one observation of three at Lake Sentani. Much commoner in Australia where they are not hunted. MEGAPODIIDAE Dusky Megapode Megapodius freycinet: Two quickly walked off on the walk to the Victoria Crowned Pigeons, and others were heard on Senapang Island. [Biak Megapode Megapodius geelvinkianum: Three live birds seen in the hands of local villagers on Numfor who had snared them for dinner. It is considered as a separate species by Jones et al. in The Megapodes, but it is usually considered as a subspecies of Dusky Megapode. This taxon does look distinct, is endemic to Numfor, Biak, Supiori and neighbouring islets, is rarely recorded, and may be threatened.] 13 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

14 Red-billed Brush-turkey Talegalla cuvieri: One crossed a logging track on Salawati and one heard at Oransberi. Most tours to New Guinea struggle to see a single brush-turkey, so we were exceptionally lucky to see up to three species, and to have reasonable views of this West Papuan endemic. Brown-collared Brush-turkey Talegalla jobiensis: This species was regularly heard in forest near Sentani and at Nimbokrang. Several mounds were seen and one bird was glimpsed by several people near the Victoria Crowned Pigeons. A rarely-seen species of the northern watershed. Wattled Brush-turkey Aepypodius arfakianus: An immature bird wandered right up the lucky second group sat in the Magnificent Bird of Paradise hide in the Arfaks, and one was heard further down the Mokwam road. Rarely seen anywhere. PHASIANIDAE Snow Mountain Quail Anurophasis monorthonyx: Four were seen around Lake Habbema, including good views of both male and female in flight. This Red Grouse-like species is endemic to the higher reaches of the Snow Mountains in West Papua and is the only member of its genus. King Quail (Blue-breasted Quail) Coturnix chinensis: About four were flushed from the grasslands near Lake Sentani, mostly dark males. RALLIDAE Buff-banded Rail Rallus philippensis: One seen at a small puddle near Lake Sentani and much better views of one foraging in and out of full view at Sorong airport. Red-necked Crake Rallina tricolor: One on Salawati crept out of a dense swamp to be seen by most people. At another swamp, one was seen running past Brian and we all heard it calling from a hidden location. White-browed Crake Porzana cinerea: One briefly at a small puddle near Lake Sentani, one seen by some in flight at Nimbokrang and at least two seen well at Sorong airport. Rufous-tailed Bush-hen Amaurornis moluccanus (H): One heard calling from dense vegetation near Lake Sentani. Australasian Swamphen Porphyrio melanotus: About five seen at Sorong airport, climbing up wetland plants. This black-backed form is lumped by Beehler et al. in Purple Swamphen P. porphyrio. Eurasian Coot (Common C) Fulica atra: At least six were seen on Lake Habbema. SCOLOPACIDAE Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola: One on Palau Rani near Biak. Common Sandpiper Tringa hypoleucos: Three on Salawati. New Guinea Woodcock Scolopax rosenbergii: One seen at dusk two nights in a row and heard the next morning, near Lake Habbema. This species is rarely seen away from this exact spot! Beehler lumps this form in Rufous Woodcock Scolopax saturata which includes the birds on Java and Sumatra. Sharp-tailed Sandpiper Calidris acuminata: One flew past at Sorong airport. STERNIDAE Common Tern Sterna hirundo: At least ten birds seen between Senapang Island and Sorong, probably non-breeding S. h. longipennis. Bridled Tern Sterna sumatrana: At least 50 seen between Numfor and Biak. Crested Tern (Great C T) Sterna bergii: Small numbers seen on most sea crossings, maximum 30 between Senapang Island and Sorong. 14 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

15 Brown Noddy Anous stolidus: About 50 seen between Biak and Numfor and at least five on the return. Black Noddy Anous minutus: About 30 seen between Numfor and Biak. COLUMBIDAE Rock Pigeon (R Dove) Columba livia: Three on Numfor were the only birds noted. Slender-billed Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia amboinensis: A scatter of birds seen and heard across the lowlands, often flying across roads when not always separated from the next species. Good views of perched birds on the first day on Biak and also seen perched along the Mokwam Road in the Arfaks. Black-billed Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia nigrirostris: Regular fly-pasts of unidentified cuckoo-doves and at least eight seen well when as they fed in small fruiting trees on the final hike down from Habbema. Great Cuckoo-Dove Reinwardtoena reinwardtii: Three seen in flight on the first day on Biak, one near Lake Sentani and one on the Mokwom Road. Emerald Ground Dove Chalcophaps indica: A couple heard on Biak and one seen by some on Numfor. Stephan s Ground Dove (S s Pigeon) Chalcophaps stephani: A few heard calling, one seen by some on the Victoria Crowned Pigeon walk and one on the Mokwom Road. Bronze Ground-Dove Gallicolumba beccarii: One seen by some in the rain near the paradigalla viewpoint and a male flew across the road just above Mokwom. All species in this genus are difficult to see unless calling. Pheasant Pigeon Otidiphaps nobilis (H): Only heard calling at a significant distance on Batanta. Western Crowned Pigeon Goura cristata: At least four seen on Salawati, giving great perched views for everyone. This extraordinary genus of the world s largest pigeons is endemic to New Guinea and this species to West Papua. Crowned pigeons are restricted to lowland forest, usually along rivers or in swamps, and are heavily hunted, leading to them all being listed as Vulnerable. Victoria Crowned Pigeon Goura victoria: A highlight of the tour was seeing Birdquest s first record of species, near Nimbokrang. This species is well-known in the area but is usually hunted out from all accessible sites. We owe our sighting to Dante s skilled and diligent tracking. Wompoo Fruit Dove Ptlinopus magnificus: Excellent views of three while waiting on the Victoria Crowned Pigeon trek, and others heard elsewhere at Nimbokrang, Lake Sentani and Oransberi. These three were unusually active and low in the mid-storey, probably in a territorial or mate dispute. Pink-spotted Fruit Dove Ptilinopus perlatus: Two or three seen both afternoons on Batanta, feeding high in the same trees used by the Red Birds of Paradise. Superb Fruit Dove Ptilinopus superbus: Several observations, including good scope views, on Biak and Numfor. One seen on the last day at Oransberi. Like most fruit doves, it is quite common in many forests but very difficult to see unless flying across clearings or congregating in fruiting trees. White-breasted Fruit Dove Ptilinopus rivoli: Several seen well on Biak and Numfor, where often mistaken for Yellow-bibbed Fruit-Dove, and several seen again in the Arfaks. This is the only fruit dove commonly encountered high in the mountains. Yellow-bibbed Fruit Dove Ptilinopus solomonensis (NL): One seen by some on Numfor. A smallisland endemic found on the Geelvink Bay islands and, across New Guinea, on the Bismarcks and Solomons. Claret-breasted Fruit Dove Ptilinopus viridis: Reasonable views of several on Biak, about 15 on Numfor and two on Batanta. Another species with an unusual range centred on West Papuan islands and the Bismarcks and Solomons 15 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

16 Orange-bellied Fruit Dove Ptilinopus iozonus: Common but difficult to see in the forest canopy at Nimbokrang. A large flock was watched high in a fig tree and a couple were seen at closer range by some people. Spice Imperial Pigeon Ducula myristicivora: One seen well on Biak and about seven on Numfor, where the subspecies geelvinkiana lacks the enlarged black cere, and about 20 of the nominate subspecies on Senapang Island. Other imperial pigeons have been split into species for lesser differences than this. Purple-tailed Imperial Pigeon Ducula rufigaster: Two seen briefly near the Red Birds of Paradise on Batanta. These were typical views of this shy understorey species. Rufescent Imperial Pigeon Ducula chalconota: Good but brief views of one high in the Arfak Mountains. Naturally an uncommon bird and hunted out of many montane areas. Pinon Imperial Pigeon Ducula pinon: Commonly calling in the Nimbokrang area but only seen flying over clearings such as the Vulturine Parrot viewpoint. Better scope views on Batanta and up to 40 on Salawati. The bird is named after Rose Pinon, wife of French explorer Captain Louis Freycinet who smuggled herself onto his ship and circumnavigation of the world, so we should follow Jonathan s pronunciation. Zoe Imperial Pigeon Ducula zoeae: Heard regularly at Nimbokrang and again on Batanta but only seen as fly-pasts on Salawati. Zoë was the wife of the French naturalist and author René Lesson ( ) who described the pigeon in Papuan Mountain Pigeon (Bare-eyed M-P) Gymnophaps albertisii: About 20 seen from the Vulturine Parrot viewpoint, then up to 20 daily in the Arfaks, where a few were seen perched. This bird only nests in the mountains but often descends to lowland hills to feed. PSITTACIDAE Brown Lory Chalcopsitta duivenbodei: Great scope views of several in a huge parrot tree at Nimbokrang. Much better looking than the field guide suggests. Endemic to the lowlands of the northern watershed. Biak Red Lory Eos cyanogenia: Several seen in flight on both Biak and Numfor and about 20 watched feeing in a flowering tree, alongside some Rainbow Lorikeets. This island endemic has been trapped in large numbers for the cage-bird trade and is listed as Vulnerable but the numbers that we saw suggested healthy populations. Dusky Lory Pseudeos fuscata: A series of small flocks totalling about 100 birds flying very high to roost over the Vulturine Parrot viewpoint. These very rarely give better views it s a mystery where they feed and why they fly so far to roost. Rainbow Lorikeet Trichoglossus haematodus: Three on Biak, five at Nimbokrang, about 10 on Batanta and a total of about 120 flying past in the morning at Salawati. This common species of the lowlands is sometimes split, with New Guinea birds becoming Coconut Lorikeet. Goldie s Lorikeet Trichoglossus goldiei (NL): Two seen by Jonathan while waiting for King of Saxony Bird of Paradise. Rather more common on the PNG tour, this has never previously seen on a Birdquest West Papua tour. Western Black-capped Lory Lorius lory: Sadly elusive, heard on many days at all lowland sites but pairs only glimpsed on Batanta and Salawati. Another New Guinea species that is much easier on the PNG tour. Red-flanked Lorikeet Charmosyna placentis (H): Only heard flying above the forest at Nimbokrang. A common species of lowland forests from east Indonesia to the Bismarcks. Little Red Lorikeet Charmosyna pulchella: A pair seen, or bits of them seen, in the flowering tree on the Mokwom Road. This and the next species are rather uncommon and totally unpredictable in lower montane forest, and rarely seen on PNG tours. 16 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

17 Josephine s Lorikeet Charmosyna josefinae: A pair seen in a second flowering tree lower down the Mokwom Road. Papuan Lorikeet Charmosyna papou: Two in flight at the end of the Habbema trek and up to 20 seen most days in the Arfaks. Beautiful views of these exquisite lorikeets waving their long tail streamers as they clambered around flowering trees. Plum-faced Lorikeet (Whiskered Lorikeet) Oreopsittacus arfaki: Up to 15 seen each day around Lake Habbema and five to ten seen twice high in the Arfaks. These tiny lorikeets have great views in dead shrubs near the MacGregor s BoP. Yellow-billed Lorikeet Neopsittacus musschenbroekii: Small numbers seen below Lake Habbema, where we also saw larger numbers of unidentified lorikeets of this or the next species. Ten or 20 seen on a couple of dates high in the Arfaks. Orange-billed Lorikeet Neopsittacus pullicauda: Two pairs seen well around Lake Habbema and many more in flight which could have been Yellow-billed Lorikeets. Palm Cockatoo Probosciger aterrimus: Up to four seen most days at Nimbokrang, Salawati and Batanta. We enjoyed good views of this monster bird, which has the largest bill of any parrot. Sulphur-crested Cockatoo Cacatua galerita: Small numbers on Biak, Numfor, Batanta and Salawati, and up to 15 at Nimbokrang. Those who hadn t been to Australia enjoyed close encounters with this noisy bird; those who had been to Australia carried on looking elsewhere. Buff-faced Pygmy Parrot Micropsitta pusio: Small flocks of three to five birds seen near Lake Sentani and at Nimbokrang, usually only affording poor flight views except for a flock found by Douglas on the walk out of Nimbokrang. These tiny parrots were watched creeping about tree branches like nuthatches and feeding on lichens. Yellow-capped Pygmy Parrot Micropsitta keiensis: Flight views of two on the Mokwom Road and much better, albeit brief, views of at least two at Oransberi. Geelvink Pygmy Parrot Micropsitta geelvinkiana: Excellent views of four on Biak and then about 20 on Numfor. This endemic has the smallest range of any of the world s species of pygmy parrot we saw four of the six species. Red-breasted Pygmy Parrot Micropsitta bruijnii: Flight views on both walks down the Mokwom Road. Salvadori s Fig-Parrot Psittaculirostris salvadorii: About five in the canopy of a forest giant at Nimbokrang, another two later that day and heard the next day. A beautifully camouflaged bird which was remarkably difficult to see even when in the scope. Endemic to West Papua. Brehm s Tiger-Parrot Psittacella brehmii: One seen in flight by some at the top of the Ibele Track, two seen high above us in rain on the Habbema road and much better views of one found by Doug in the Arfaks. Painted Tiger-Parrot Psittacella picta: Very good views of three around Lake Habbema. Tiger-Parrots are a New Guinea oddity, behaving more like fat finches. Red-cheeked Parrot Geoffroyus geoffroyi: Up to four seen most days in the lowlands but usually only seen in flight. Blue-collared Parrot Geoffroyus simplex: At least three flying over the Mokwom Road on our first days walk and then two flying lower on the second days walk. Great-billed Parrot Tanygnathus megalorhynchos: Two seen flying and perched on Senapang Island. Only seen from the boat on our first passing; none could be found when we later landed on the island. This is a Moluccan species which extends to islands off western New Guinea. Eclectus Parrot Eclectus roratus: Fairly common in all of the lowland sites. Notably commoner on Numfor (where 25 seen one morning) than on Biak (where a maximum of five) but especially common on Batanta where at least 50 gathered before roost. 17 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

18 Vulturine Parrot (Pesquet s Parrot) Psittrichas fulgidus: A great series of records: three seen at a new site near Nimbokrang recommended by Dante, three at dusk at Mokwom and one the next day, and one flying directly over us on the lower Mokwom Road. It is listed as Vulnerable because it is reportedly heavily hunted for its red feathers but perhaps capture for trade is more of a risk. It is better to call it Pesquet s Parrot, as there is another Vulturine Parrot Pionopsitta vulturina in Brazil. Papuan King-Parrot Alisterus chloropterus (H): One heard when we were stalking Victoria Crowned Pigeons. Moluccan King-Parrot Alisterus amboinensis: At least four seen by the garden along the Mokwom Road. This replaces the previous species on the Vogelkop and islands to the Moluccas. Papuan Hanging Parrot Loriculus aurantiifrons: Two singles flew past the Salawati dawn watch and another over the road at Oransberi. A very good series of records for this elusive bird which is hardly ever seen perched. CUCULIDAE Brush Cuckoo Cacomantis variolosus: Heard most days in the lowlands and at least two seen well on Biak. A widespread species from south-east Asia to Australia. Chestnut-breasted Cuckoo Cacomantis castaneiventris: Heard most days in the Arfaks where about three birds were seen, usually perched unobtrusively in the lower canopy. This is almost endemic to New Guinea, but a few breed in far north Australia. Fan-tailed Cuckoo Cacomantis flabelliformis: Good views of two close to Lake Habbema, where they were heard calling every day. A montane replacement of the preceding two species. Rufous-throated Bronze Cuckoo Chrysococcyx ruficollis: At least one seen below Mokwom village and one heard below Yaloye on the Habbema trek. The bronze-cuckoos are similar to the Cacomantis cuckoos in having high, mid and low altitude species segregated across New Guinea. White-eared Bronze Cuckoo Chrysococcyx meyerii: Several singles seen in the Arfak Mountains. This New Guinea endemic is usually the only non-passerine in the mixed species flocks of the lower montane forests. Dwarf Koel (Black-capped Koel) Microdynamis parva (H): Two birds were heard singing on the Victoria Crowned Pigeon trek but they remained unobserved in the forest canopy. Australian Koel Eudynamys cyanocephala (H): Only heard at Nimbokrang and in valleys around Mokwom. This widespread species nest-parasitizes medium-sized birds such as friarbirds. Channel-billed Cuckoo Scythrops novaehollandiae: Several seen on Biak, Lake Sentani and Nimbokrang, including scope views of a pair in some sort of display. Very impressive, prehistoric-looking birds. These are mostly migrants from Australia, but some are probably resident nest-parasites of crows. Greater Black Coucal Centropus menbeki: Often heard in the lowland forest at Nimbokrang and Salawati. One coaxed into view on Salawati when Guy climbed its tree. Biak Coucal Centropus chalybeus (H): This Biak endemic must be extremely shy as it is often heard but very rarely seen. Up to five heard each day on Biak and what appeared to be this species heard on Numfor, from where there are no previous records. Pheasant Coucal Centropus phasianinus: Good views of one in the grasslands beside Lake Sentani. Lesser Black Coucal Centropus bernsteini: Two in the grasslands beside Lake Sentani seemed unusual as it rarely coexists with the preceding species, but another was seen exceptionally well on the optional second visit to the grasslands. Poor views of one flushed in secondary forest at Nimbokrang. TYTONIDAE Sooty Owl (Greater Sooty Owl) Tyto tenebricosa (H): Heard twice near Mokwom but not seen. 18 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

19 STRIGIDAE Papuan Hawk-Owl Uroglaux dimorpha (H): One heard in the distance before dawn at Nimbokrang. Papuan Boobook Ninox theomacha: At least two called regularly at our forest at Nimbokrang but the trees were just too big to be able to see them. Heard occasionally in the Arfaks and one seen along the road from Mokwom after passing several more distant calling birds. PODARGIDAE Marbled Frogmouth Podargus ocellatus: Fantastic spot-light views of a bird on Batanta, where singles and pairs were heard calling on several occasions Papuan Frogmouth Podargus papuensis: Great views of one on a nest near Nimbokrang. Heard calling on many nights throughout the trip. AEGOTHELIDAE Feline Owlet-Nightjar Aegotheles insignis (H): Two heard on a pre-dawn trek up the Arfaks. Mountain Owlet-Nightjar Aegotheles albertisi: Fantastic daytime views in a dense patch of secondary growth in the Arfak Mountains. A marvellous little creature. CAPRIMULGIDAE Mountain Nightjar Eurostopodus archboldi: Reasonable views of a single bird first noticed by Jonathan in the half-light near the woodcock at Lake Habbema. Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus: One or two seen on Biak and near Lake Sentani, and heard at Nimbokrang and Batanta. HEMIPROCNIDAE Moustached Tree Swift Hemiprocne mystacea: Two seen high over Biak, then great scope views of a pair on the drive to Nimbokrang and a few pairs on Batanta. The largest of the world s tree swifts and a real stunner. APODIDAE Uniform Swiftlet Collocalia vanikorensis: A few seen on Biak and Numfor, more at Nimbokrang, where 40 seen on the evening Vulturine Parrot watch, and up to 50 on Batanta and Salawati. Mountain Swiftlet Collocalia hirundinacea: Commonly seen in the mountains, with a maximum of 100 on the final day s trek down from Lake Habbema. Only identifiable in the field on the basis of its altitude. Glossy Swiftlet (White-bellied Swiftlet) Collocalia esculenta: One of the most common birds in West Papua and seen at all sites, with a maximum of 200 on Biak. Papuan Spine-tailed Swift (Papuan Needletail) Mearnsia novaeguineae: Five seen on the evening Vulturine Parrot watch and one or two on Salawati. This genus has one other species in the Philippines - an unusual geographic pattern. ALCEDINIDAE Common Paradise Kingfisher Tanysiptera galatea: Two heard but hiding impossibly at Nimbokrang, many heard and at least five seen on Batanta and one heard at Oransberi. This is the commonest bird caught in some mist-netting studies but they know well how to perch out of sight! 19 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

20 Biak Paradise Kingfisher Tanysiptera riedelii: About ten seen on our first day on Biak, then smaller numbers, but including one with perfect tail streamers, on our rainy evening walk. Beehler et al. lump it within Common Paradise Kingfisher, but more often treated as a separate species. Numfor Paradise Kingfisher Tanysiptera carolinae: Wonderful views on our first evening on Numfor, when one was seen and three others were heard calling, then repeated sightings of a total of seven birds the next morning, including three perched together in the open canopy of an emergent tree. Its beauty, the quality and number of views and especially the infrequency with which birders have made it across to Numfor made it one of the birds of the trip. Hook-billed Kingfisher Melidora macrorrhina (H): Heard regularly at Nimbokrang and Batanta but never very close, and never very close to be seen. Rufous-bellied Kookaburra Dacelo gaudichaud: Heard regularly at Nimbokrang, where one perched for all to see when we were looking for the Blue-black Kingfisher, and Lake Sentani, Batanta and Oransberi, where one or two were seen. Blue-black Kingfisher (Black-sided Kingfisher) Halcyon nigrocyanea: Poor flight views on two days at Nimbokrang. It was exciting then to find a bird on Salawati, where it has not been seen in recent years, and enjoy proper scope views of this beautiful and inexplicably rare kingfisher. Sacred Kingfisher Halcyon sancta: Scattered small numbers in all open lowland habitats. Up to ten daily on Biak and Numfor where birds were also in forest and behaving as territorial pairs, suggesting that the species may nest here although it is not known to nest outside Australia and New Caledonia. They did not look like the Collared Kingfisher T. chloris chloris which occurs in coastal west Papua but not on Biak. Beach Kingfisher Halcyon saurophaga: Eventual good views on Senapang Island, just before a rainstorm sent us running. A good decision, everyone, to wait for it to return! Yellow-billed Kingfisher Halcyon torotoro: Heard regularly at all lowland sites but only seen once when one or two were perched on Salawati and gave us prolonged scope views of this gem. Dwarf Kingfisher (Variable Kingfisher) Ceyx lepidus (H): Heard at Nimbokrang, Batanta and Salawati but typically difficult to see. Azure Kingfisher Alcedo azurea: At least one seen by the shore on Salawati. MEROPIDAE Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus: Four perched and hawking for insects near Lake Sentani. A very localised resident in New Guinea lowland savannas. Rainbow Bee-eater Merops ornatus: Small numbers seen on Biak and Nimbokrang, maximum 20 on Numfor. This species only breeds in Australia but migrates north to New Guinea and central Indonesia. CORACIIDAE Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis: Up to ten daily on Biak and Numfor, and smaller numbers at Nimbokrang, Batanta and Arfak lowlands. BUCEROTIDAE Blyth s Hornbill (Papuan Hornbill) Rhyticeros plicatus: Some great views of this monstrous bird, especially at Nimbokrang, where about 25 flew past camp each evening, on Salawati and along the Mokwom Road, where perched close to the road. 20 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

21 PITTIDAE Blue-breasted Pitta (Red-bellied Pitta) Pitta erythrogaster: Heard on Batanta and Salawati, where one was seen at very close range just before dark. Although widespread in the region, it can be difficult to see and is rarely seen at such close range. Hooded Pitta Pitta sordida: Several seen on Biak and a couple on Batanta and Salawati. Another widespread species which is not often seen and always a delight. HIRUNDINIDAE Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: At least three at Sorong airport on 20 August, a relatively early date for this migrant. Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica: Regular observations in towns and at airports. The only resident hirundine in West Papua. MOTACILLIDAE Alpine Pipit Anthus gutturalis: Quite common along the roads and some short grasslands around Lake Habbema - clearly a species of stony ground. Good views of its unusual head pattern. CAMPEPHAGIDAE Hooded Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina longicauda: Singles or small groups seen on three dates below Lake Habbema. This large cuckoo-shrike is endemic to the New Guinea mountains. White-bellied Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina papuensis: Surprisingly uncommon, with only two records on Batanta and Salawati. This regional endemic is usually found in open forests. Boyer s Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina boyeri: Just one pair seen at Nimbokrang. Named after Captain J. Boyer, another Frenchman who sailed the Pacific with Dumont d Urville. A fairly common lowland New Guinea endemic. Cicadabird (Common C / Slender-billed C) Coracina tenuirostris: Two sightings on Biak and three seen on Numfor. These are the resident subspecies meyeri and numforana, whereas the species only occurs on mainland New Guinea as a migrant tenuirostris from Australia. Black Cuckoo-Shrike (New Guinea Cuckoo-Shrike) Coracina melaena: One female seen twice near Lake Sentani and one male at Nimbokrang. A fairly common lowland New Guinea endemic. Black-bellied Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina montana: Pairs regularly seen below Lake Habbema and a flock of about six in the Arfaks. Another montane endemic. Black-browed Triller Lalage atrovirens: Regularly seen and heard in the lowlands. Notably commoner on Biak and Numfor where the subspecies leucoptera is distinguished by the unbarred females. It is restricted to north and west New Guinea, West Papuan islands and Tanimbar. PYCNONOTIDAE Sooty-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus aurigaster: Several individuals of this introduced species seen on Biak, especially in degraded scrubby habitats and one near Lake Sentani. TURDIDAE Pied Chat (Pied Bushchat) Saxicola caprata: One distant bird seen near Lake Sentani and several seen on the trek below Lake Habbema. Although generally considered to be a very widespread species, the populations of New Guinea and the Bismarck Archipelago could be split off as a separate species, Black Bushchat S. aethiops. 21 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

22 Island Thrush Turdus poliocephalus: Common in the grasslands and along the tree line near Lake Habbema. A pair were watched bringing food to a nest in the top of a hollow stump. The race versteegi is restricted to the Snow Mountains and there are another 48 subspecies, most restricted to high mountains or small islands. EUPETIDAE [Beehler lumps this family in Orthonychidae.] Spotted Jewel-babbler Ptilorrhoa leucosticta (H): Two heard in the Arfaks but remained hidden in dense ground vegetation. INCERTAE SEDIS [The correct taxonomic treatment of the two melampittas is still unclear. Beehler places them in Orthonychidae/Eupetidae but Sibley & Monroe and Clements treat them as terrestrial Birds of Paradise.] Lesser Melampitta Melampitta lugubris: Fantastic views of one below Pos III at Lake Habbema and another two seen on the trail the next day. This is a classic New Guinea bird: unknown taxonomy, unlike any other bird in the world, beautiful and skulking! POMATOSTOMIDAE Rufous Babbler Pomatostomus isidorei: Good views of a group of about six birds in the lowland rainforest at Nimbokrang. Several pendulous nests were also seen here. The only New Guinea member of a small Australian family. SYLVIIDAE Australian Reed-Warbler Acrocephalus australis: At least one adult feeding a fledgling at Sorong airport. A very patchy and uncommon species across in New Guinea, and never previously seen on a Birdquest West Papua tour. Papuan Grassbird (Papuan Grass Warbler) Megalurus macrurus: Several heard around Lake Habbema and three seen, including a pair close to camp. Beehler et al. lumps this form in Tawny Grassbird M. timoriensis. If split, this species is endemic to New Guinea and the Bismarck Archipelago. Golden-headed Cisticola (Bright-capped Cisticola) Cisticola exilis: One in grasslands near Lake Sentani on both visits and one near Nimbokrang. Island Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus poliocephala: At least four seen near the end of the Lake Habbema trek and up to five seen on many days in the Arfak Mountains. The only Phylloscopus warbler in New Guinea. MALURIDAE Wallace s Fairy-wren Sipodotus wallacii: Two birds in a mixed flock on the Mokwom Road gave good views of this tiny, unobtrusive and rarely-seen species. Never previously seen on a Birdquest West Papua tour. Emperor Fairy-wren Malurus cyanocephalus: Three seen on Biak and on the final visit to the Lake Sentani forest, and others heard at Nimbokrang. A splendid and very striking species. White-shouldered Fairy-wren Malurus alboscapulatus: Four seen near Lake Sentani, two on the Lake Habbema trek and several small groups in the Arfaks. Orange-crowned Fairy-wren Clytomyias insignis: One seen by Guy on the Habbema trek and one or two seen twice in the Arfaks. An extreme skulker which is uncommon and infrequently recorded anywhere. 22 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

23 ACANTHIZIDAE Rusty Mouse-Warbler Crateroscelis murina: Exceptionally good views of a pair on Salawati which behaved most unlike mouse-warblers, perching in full view for all to see. Bicoloured Mouse-Warbler Crateroscelis bicolor: Although this is known to be a difficult species to identify and I can t find previous records for Mokwom, the repeated views of three individuals around the Magnificent Bird of Paradise hide and much better views of a pair in full view just above Mokwom village were convincing. Mountain Mouse-Warbler Crateroscelis robusta: Great views of one in the open in forest above our Lake Habbema camp, then singles seen by some or all of the group on several dates below Lake Habbema and in the Arfaks. Pale-billed Scrub-wren Sericornis spilodera: Two in a mixed passerine flock on Salawati. A relatively distinct scrub-wren when seen well, as here. Large Scrub-wren Sericornis nouhuysi: A scatter of singles along the Lake Habbema trek and at least one in the Arfaks. A plain scrub-wren. Buff-faced Scrub-wren Sericornis perspicillatus: Common and eventually seen well on the Lake Habbema trek, where up to 15 were seen daily. The distinctive head-pattern was seen well. Vogelkop Scrub-wren Sericornis rufescens: Common in the Arfak Mountains, where up to 10 were seen daily, usually in pairs or small groups associating with other small passerines. Endemic to West Papua where it replaces the preceding species. Papuan Scrub-wren Sericornis papuensis: At least one flock seen at the start of the Lake Habbema trek. Another plain scrub-wren! Grey-green Scrub-wren Sericornis arfakianus: Four seen below Mokwam village. It was dull but seems undeserving of its scientific name... New Guinea Thornbill (Papuan Thornbill) Acanthiza murina: Two flocks, of about 10 and 15 birds, near the tree-line at Lake Habbema. The only thornbill outside Australia (except for those in a different family in South America). Grey Gerygone Gerygone cinerea: Pairs and singles seen on several dates in the Arfak mountains. Relatively uncommon but perhaps overlooked in the forest canopy. Yellow-bellied Gerygone Gerygone chrysogaster: Small numbers seen on two dates at Nimbokrang and one seen on Salawati. Green-backed Gerygone Gerygone chloronotus: Its repetitive song was commonly heard in the lowlands, and one was seen well in the Lake Sentani forest. Fairy Gerygone Gerygone palpebrosa: A pair seen in a mixed flock on Salawati and a single and a pair seen on two days on the lower Mokwom Road. Not uncommon elsewhere in New Guinea but never previously seen on a Birdquest West Papua tour. Biak Gerygone Gerygone hypoxantha: At least four birds were seen well in a mixed flock on Biak. There are few records of this endemic taxon which has been listed as Endangered but is currently considered a subspecies of the next species by BirdLife International despite its yellow underparts. Large-billed Gerygone Gerygone magnirostris: A pair seen near Lake Sentani. Also occurring in Australia, this usually occurs alongside rivers and lakes. Brown-breasted Gerygone Gerygone ruficollis: Common in the mountains, especially in secondary forest. RHIPIDURIDAE Sooty Thicket-fantail Rhipidura threnothorax: Repeated poor views of one on route to the crowned pigeons at Nimbokrang. Typically an amazing skulker in forest thickets. 23 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

24 Black Thicket-fantail Rhipidura maculipectus: Eventually we had good views of this skulker on Salawati and another was heard by the village on Batanta. An uncommon species seen on few tours. White-bellied Thicket-fantail Rhipidura leucothorax: First seen by Lake Sentani, then several more, usually brief, views at Nimbokrang. Slightly less skulking and much commoner than the preceding two species. Dimorphic Fantail Rhipidura brachyrhyncha: A few seen at the start of the Ibele Track and in the Arfaks. Both colour morphs showed very well. Black Fantail Rhipidura atra: A few seen along the Ibele Track but more common in the Arfaks, where up to ten were seen daily. The only sexually dimorphic fantail, males looking like Black Monarchs and females like Dimorphic Fantails. Friendly Fantail Rhipidura albolimbata: Common and inquisitive in the mountains, where up to 20 were seen daily. Apparently, it is friendly because it can jump into the air quicker than a stone from a boy s catapult. Northern Fantail Rhipidura rufiventris: Common on Biak, Nimbokrang, Lake Sentani, the lower Mokwom Road and Oransberi. Willie Wagtail (White-browed Fantail) Rhipidura leucophrys: Widespread in open habitats, especially on Biak and around Lake Sentani. MYIAGRIDAE Black Monarch Monarcha axillaris: Two seen in the Arfak Mountains. An unusual monarch which looks and behaves more like a fantail. Island Monarch Monarcha cinerascens: One on Numfor. This species has a wide range from Indonesia to the Solomon Islands but almost always on islands too small to have endemic birds and birders. Spot-winged Monarch Monarcha guttula: Two singles near the birds of paradise at Nimbokrang and one in a mixed species flock on Salawati. Relatively common but most lowland forests in New Guinea seem remarkably devoid of small mid-storey birds. Biak Monarch Monarcha brehmii: One seen well on Biak. A very rare species, with only four field records traced by BirdLife International when they assessed it as Endangered, and never previously by Birdquest tour. Golden Monarch Monarcha chrysomela: The orange subspecies kordensis was quite common on Biak and single chrysomela were seen twice at Nimbokrang and on the lower Mokwom Road. Frilled Monarch Arses telescopthalmus: Quite common on Batanta and Salawati, where up to five were seen daily. A striking bird. Arses was a Persian monarch in the 4 th century BC. Rufous-collared Monarch Arses insularis: Several seen in forest at Lake Sentani and at Nimbokrang. The northern watershed equivalent of the preceding species and sometimes lumped together. Biak Black Flycatcher (Biak Flycatcher) Myiagra atra: A total of five seen on Biak and two on Numfor. Endemic to Biak and Numfor where it appears to be fairly common and tolerant of degraded forest habitats. Shining Flycatcher (Shining Monarch) Myiagra alecto: Small numbers seen on most days on Biak and on a few days at Lake Sentani, Batanta and Salawati. This widespread flycatcher s unique shape and behaviour was seen well on the tour. 24 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

25 MACHAERIRHYNCHIDAE [Beehler lumps this family in Monarchidae.] Yellow-breasted Boatbill Machaerirhynchus flaviventer: Heard at Nimbokrang, two seen on Salawati and one seen at Oransberi. This beautiful tiny lowland forest birds also occurs in far north Australia. Black-breasted Boatbill Machaerirhynchus nigripectus: Two seen on the Lake Habbema trek and a total of about six in the Arfaks. Its plumage and lively character made it a real favourite. PETROICIDAE [Beehler uses the name Eopsaltriidae for this family.] Olive Flycatcher (Olive Flyrobin) Microeca flavovirescens: Excellent prolonged views of a singing bird while waiting for crowned pigeons at Nimbokrang. Not uncommon but inconspicuous and infrequently seen. Canary Flycatcher (Canary Flyrobin) Microeca papuana: Five seen on the Lake Habbema trek and three in the Arfaks. Garnet Robin Eugerygone rubra: Heard on the Lake Habbema trek and remarkably common in the Arfaks, where most people had excellent views of this distinctive species, drooping and shivering its wings like a miniature fantail. Mountain Robin (Alpine Robin) Petroica bivittata: One perched beside the road above our second Lake Habbema camp. A localised high montane endemic. Ashy Robin Poecilodryas albispecularis: We regularly heard this ace skulker in the higher reaches of the Arfak Mountains, and one group had excellent views of a bird on the return from Gunung Nadim. Black-sided Robin Poecilodryas hypoleuca: Good views of single birds in swamp forest at Nimbokrang and Salawati. Like all robins, it offered great views but only if you could spot it as it sat motionless. Black-throated Robin Poecilodryas albonotata: One seen high above us below the Yaloye camp and three seen on the slopes of Gunung Nadim in the Arfak Mountains. A distinctive voice of the montane forest but not so often seen. Greater Ground-Robin Amalocichla sclateriana (H): One singing at the start of the Ibele Track was frustratingly disinterested in playback because it would have been a new bird for Guy and Birdquest. But when Beehler et al. single it out amongst all the New Guinea birds as shy, you have to be happy to have heard it! Lesser Ground-Robin Amalocichla incerta: A couple were heard on the Habbema trek and at least four seen at close range in the Arfaks. This was a very good series of excellent views for an often elusive species. White-winged Robin Peneothello sigillatus: A total of five seen in the Lake Habbema area. A striking high-altitude endemic. Smoky Robin Peneothello cryptoleucus: A total of seven seen in the Arfaks, thanks mostly to Agus great whistling. This Vogelkop endemic is generally uncommon and difficult to see. Blue-grey Robin (Slaty Robin) Peneothello cyanus: Heard regularly and a few seen on the Lake Habbema trek and in the Arfaks. Not so common on this tour but seen well, especially on the descent from Lake Habbema. Green-backed Robin Pachycephalopsis hattamensis: One seen feeding quietly on the ground near our camp in the Arfak Mountains and another perched in full view on the walk down. Another West Papuan endemic that is never easy to find. PACHYCEPHALIDAE Dwarf Whistler (Goldenface, Pachycare) Pachycare flavogriseum: Four seen on the Mokwom Road, where we had good views of this beautiful and unusual whistler. 25 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

26 Common Golden Whistler (Golden Whistler) Pachycephala pectoralis: Three seen on the lower stretches of the Lake Habbema trek. This is the subspecies balim, restricted to a few valleys in the West Papuan highlands, and one of 64 subspecies of this widespread species. Sclater s Whistler Pachycephala soror: Singles or pairs seen four times in the Arfak Mountains including a pair by camp. The New Guinea lower montane forest equivalent of Common Golden Whistler. Regent Whistler Pachycephala schlegelii: Good views of a total of eight on the Lake Habbema trek and nine in the Arfaks. The males are particularly attractive and fairly common. Lorentz s Whistler Pachycephala lorentzi: About five seen in the higher altitudes of the Lake Habbema area. This dull hen-plumaged whistler is endemic to the region and named after Hendrik Lorentz ( ), a Dutch explorer. Vogelkop Whistler Pachycephala meyeri: A total of eight seen in the Arfak Mountains, mostly along around Mokwom. Another dull hen-plumaged whistler, endemic to the mountains of the Vogelkop. Grey-headed Whistler Pachycephala griseiceps: At least one on Salawati and three on the Mokwom Road. This dull hen-plumaged whistler has a number of a distinct subspecies which are sometimes split. Rufous-naped Whistler Pachycephala rufinucha: Often heard below Lake Habbema and in the Arfaks but only two seen. This very atypical whistler is a foul-mouthed skulker of forest thickets and often placed in the monotypic genus Aleadryas. Little Shrike-Thrush Colluricincla megarhyncha: Two singing on Biak, and a handful seen at Nimbokrang, Lake Sentani, Batanta, Salawati and the lower Mokwom Road. A remarkable variable bird with 21 subspecies around New Guinea and seven in Australia. Variable Pitohui Pitohui kirhocephalus: Small flocks seen at most lowland sites. This is a poisonous species, whose feathers and skin contain batrachotoxins, the same poison found in the skins of Phyllobates poison-arrow frogs. Hooded Pitohui Pitohui dichrous: A couple seen near Lake Sentani and on the lower Mokwom Road. Another poisonous species and also sporting the likely warning colours of orange-red and black. Rusty Pitohui Pitohui ferrugineus: Small numbers in mixed rufous-birds flocks at Nimbokrang, Batanta and Salawati. This plain pitohui has lower levels or no poisons and perhaps for this reason is much shyer. Black Pitohui Pitohui nigrescens: Heard near the Magnificent Bird of Paradise hide and a pair were seen perched in the open on the second Gunung Nadim trek. Unlike the previous species, this is an uncommon and unobtrusive bird of montane forest. CLIMACTERIDAE Papuan Treecreeper Cormobates placens: Good views of several seen below Lake Habbema and in the Arfaks. The other six species of this family which shows close convergence with Holarctic treecreepers, Philippine creepers and Spotted Creeper, are in Australia. NEOSITTIDAE Papuan Sittella Daphoenositta papuensis: At least three seen high on an emergent dead tree on the last day of the Lake Habbema trek. Often lumped with Varied Sittella D. chrysoptera which has many subspecies and intergrades across Australia. Black Sittella Daphoenositta miranda: A flock of about eight seen in misty rainy conditions above camp at Lake Habbema. This uncommon species also looks black in the sunshine! 26 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

27 MELANOCHARITIDAE Black Berrypecker Melanocharis nigra: A pair in the large mixed species flock on Salawati. Berrypeckers are an unusual New Guinea family which are sometimes combined with the longbills (placed within honeyeaters here). Mid-mountain Berrypecker Melanocharis longicauda: One or two seen on several dates in the Arfaks, usually with mixed species flocks. Fan-tailed Berrypecker Melanocharis versteri: Three seen on the Lake Habbema trek. This and the preceding two species are another good example of the several New Guinea genera represented by allospecies in the lowlands, mid-mountains and high mountains. Spotted Berrypecker Ramphocharis crassirostris: Good repeated views of a female on the walk up to our Arfaks camp and another seen near the paradigalla viewpoint. This is an uncommon species rarely seen on any bird tours. DICAEIDAE Red-capped Flowerpecker Dicaeum geelvinkianum: Common on Biak, Lake Sentani and Nimbokrang. Previously lumped with the following species. Olive-crowned Flowerpecker Dicaeum pectorale: Common in the Arfaks, with up to six seen each day especially along the Mokwom Road. Endemic to West Papua. PARAMYTHIIDAE Tit Berrypecker Oreocharis arfaki: Two small flocks seen on the Lake Habbema trek and in the Arfaks. Several males, looking remarkably like Great Tits, were seen. The Paramythiidae (with only these two species) is one of the two or three families endemic to New Guinea. Crested Berrypecker Paramythia montium: Common, with up to 15 seen daily, around Lake Habbema. This beautifully multi-coloured bird was a highlight of the area. NECTARINIIDAE Black Sunbird Nectarinia aspasia: Common in the lowlands, with particularly good views on Biak and around Lake Sentani. Yellow-bellied Sunbird (Olive-backed Sunbird) Nectarinia jugularis: Similar abundance to Black Sunbird. These are the only two sunbirds which have made it across Weber s Line into the honeyeater region. ZOSTEROPIDAE Black-fronted White-eye Zosterops minor: Flocks seen on several occasions on the lower Mokwom Road. As with most white-eyes, it preferred the heavy-fruiting small trees of secondary regrowth forest. Biak White-eye Zosterops mysorensis: A pair seen very well in scrub on the way back to Biak town. Endemic to Biak but probably under no threat as it is a species of heavily degraded habitats. Western Mountain White-eye Zosterops fuscicapillus: About 30 seen on the last day of the Lake Habbema trek and up to 30 seen on many days in the Arfaks. A common species of secondary re-growth at high altitudes. MELIPHAGIDAE Long-billed Honeyeater Melilestes megarhynchus: A pair seen by Lake Sentani then several observations in the Nimbokrang area and in the Arfak foothills. This plain brown bird was easily identified by its very long bill. 27 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

28 Yellow-bellied Longbill Toxorhamphus novaeguineae: One seen one evening on Batanta, one on Salawati and two at Oransberi. Although Beehler et al. treat these next three longbills as honeyeaters, other taxonomists place them with the berrypeckers in the family Melanocharitidae. Dwarf Honeyeater (Grey-bellied Longbill) Oedistoma iliolophus: One seen briefly at Nimbokrang, then a series of sightings along the Mokwom Road, especially around the flowering trees, with up to seven seen in a day. These were exceptionally good views of a notoriously difficult to see species. Pygmy Honeyeater (Pygmy Longbill) Oedistoma pygmaeum: One seen in the forest near Lake Sentani then prolonged views of two on the Mokwom Road. Another species that is usually overlooked, and never previously seen on a Birdquest West Papua tour Green-backed Honeyeater Glycichaera fallax: Two seen in the Lake Sentani forest and a dark-eyed immature on the Mokwom Road. Also often overlooked, not because it is secretive but because it is so nondescript. Red-throated Myzomela Myzomela eques: Good views of one in mistletoe in forest near Lake Sentani. This understorey honeyeater is unobtrusive and not often seen. Dusky Myzomela Myzomela obscura (NL): One seen by Brian on Biak. Red Myzomela Myzomela cruentata: At least two adults and probably more immatures, on each visit to the flowering tree on the Mokwom Road, and another adult singing further down the road. Papuan Black Myzomela Myzomela adolphinae: At least one at the flowering tree on the Mokwom Road. Mountain Red-headed Myzomela Myzomela adolphinae: At least seven at the flowering tree on the Mokwom Road. These three gregarious species of myzomelas are probably locally nomadic, and often missed by birding tours. Red-collared Myzomela Myzomela rosenbergi: Common at high altitudes around Lake Habbema and in the Arfaks. A real jewel in the high mountain shrubs. Mountain Meliphaga Meliphaga orientalis: One seen at the forest edge on the Lake Habbema trek and at least two on each visit to the flowering tree on the Mokwom Road. Meliphagas are often impossible to identify in the field but this is the only high-altitude species. Scrub White-eared Meliphaga Meliphaga albonotata: Several seen well along the Mokwom Road. A well-named species, identified by its habitat and ear colour. Mimic Meliphaga Meliphaga analoga: A scatter of individuals seen at Nimbokrang, Batanta, Mokwom Road and Oransberi. Some of the less-well seen individuals could have been another species but the Meliphaga honeyeaters are the most difficult New Guinea species to identify and the biochemists have just added another species for us: Elegant Honeyeater M. cinereifrons in south-east New Guinea. Black-throated Honeyeater Lichenostomus subfrenatus: Fairly common close to the tree-line around Lake Habbema trek, where up to ten were seen each day, and one or two feeding in flowering trees with lorikeets in the Arfaks. Orange-cheeked Honeyeater Lichenostomus chrysogenys: Up to 15 seen each day in tree-line scrub around Lake Habbema. This large bulky honeyeater is endemic to the Snow Mountains. Spotted Honeyeater Xanthotis polygramma: One seen near the end of the Lake Habbema trek and one in the Mokwom Road flowering tree on both days. A rather uncommon hill forest species. Tawny-breasted Honeyeater Xanthotis flaviventer: Singles seen at Nimbokrang and Batanta but much better views of up to six along the Mokwom Road. Plain at first, we could see the distinctive face pattern of this species. Plain Honeyeater Pycnopygius ixoides: Three seen at Nimbokrang. 28 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

29 Marbled Honeyeater Pycnopygius cinereus: Two seen on the Mokwom Road and some saw one near the end of the Lake Habbema trek. Streak-headed Honeyeater Pycnopygius stictocephalus: Heard at Nimbokrang but only seen on the final optional Lake Sentani visit, when one perched out in the open. Meyer s Friarbird Philemon meyeri: Also heard at Nimbokrang and seen on the final optional Lake Sentani visit. New Guinea Friarbird Philemon novaeguineae: Heard commonly at Lake Sentani, Nimbokrang, Batanta and Salawati, including some good views of perched birds. Another species with an unsettled species-level taxonomy, sometimes lumped in the Australian Helmeted Friarbird P. buceroides. Rufous-sided Honeyeater Ptiloprora erythropleura: One or two seen most days in the Arfaks, including good views around the camp. This attractive little honeyeater is endemic to West Papua. Grey-streaked Honeyeater Ptiloprora perstriata: Up to 15 seen daily in the montane forests around and below Lake Habbema. Sooty Melidectes Melidectes fuscus: A total of six seen at high altitudes around Lake Habbema. This unobtrusive honeyeater was eventually seen very well near the camp. Short-bearded Melidectes Melidectes nouhuysi: A total of six seen at high altitudes around Lake Habbema. This West Papuan endemic was also seen very well on the last days after some initial fleeting views. Cinnamon-browed Melidectes Melidectes ochromelas: Several small groups were seen calling and chasing in the canopy of the Arfak Mountains. Although large and noisy, we had to be persistent to have good views of this bird. Vogelkop Melidectes Melidectes leucostephes: Excellent scope views then a series of other observations in the Arfaks. This Vogelkop endemic was a splendid bird, much better in life than in the book. Belford s Melidectes Melidectes belfordi: By far the most obvious bird in the higher altitudes around Lake Habbema, where up to 40 were seen each day. George Belford was a collector for Sir William McGregor ( ), a British colonial governor, and ornithologist. Maybe he was a quarrelsome man? Ornate Melidectes Melidectes torquatus: Good views around the house on the final morning of the Lake Habbema trek and a few seen on the lower Mokwom Road. Another smart but rather secretive Melidectes. Western Smoky Honeyeater Melipotes gymnops: Up to ten seen daily in the montane forests of the Arfaks. This West Papuan endemic is clearly a close relative of the next species. Common Smoky Honeyeater Melipotes fumigatus: Fairly common in the montane forests of the Lake Habbema area, where up to ten were seen daily. ESTRILDIDAE Blue-faced Parrot-finch Erythrura trichroa (H): Several were heard below Lake Habbema and in the Arfaks but remained impossible to locate in forest canopy. Some may have been the very similar Papuan Parrot-finch Erythrura papuana. Streak-headed Mannikin Lonchura tristissima: About ten seen in old rice paddies near Nimbokrang and a couple of small groups near our camp in the Arfaks. Grand Mannikin Lonchura grandis: Up to five perched perfectly in the Sentani grasslands. This is an uncommon bird, not usually seen on PNG tours. Hooded Mannikin Lonchura spectabilis: About 15 seen on the second visit to the Lake Sentani grasslands. 29 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

30 Black-breasted Mannikin Lonchura teerinki: About ten on the way up to Lake Habbema and at least 200 on the final day trek. Endemic to grasslands in the mid-mountains of the central Snow Mountains, one wonders how much habitat it found before people cleared these valleys. Western Alpine Mannikin Lonchura montana: A flock of about 15 were found eventually in the grasslands near Lake Habbema, then we found another flock on the way back to camp and then a couple were seen from camp itself. This species is virtually confined to West Papua, but just creeps into PNG. Crimson Finch Neochmia phaeton: Three on the first visit to the Lake Sentani grasslands, ten on the second visit and ten with mannikins near Nimbokrang. It is normally confined to the southern watershed of New Guinea, but the recent series of records around Jayapura suggest a new population derived from escaped cage-birds. PASSERIDAE Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus: Widespread, even seen on Numfor. STURNIDAE Singing Starling Aplonis cantoroides: One flock of eight on wires in the Lake Sentani grasslands. This species is usually associated with human inhabitations. Long-tailed Starling Aplonis magna: Pairs were commonly seen on Biak and Numfor, with a maximum daily count of 10 birds. Massive spherical stick nests were probably from this species. Endemic to the Geelvink Bay islands, where it seems to adapt well to secondary growth. Metallic Starling (Shining Starling) Aplonis metallica: Common on Biak and Numfor, with smaller numbers at Nimbokrang, including a small colony over the road, and on Senapang Island. Golden Myna Mino anais: Two pairs were seen in flight at the Vulturine Parrot viewpoint a stunningly plumaged bird, especially against the rain clouds. Yellow-faced Myna Mino dumontii: Pairs were seen occasionally at Nimbokrang, Batanta and Salawati, including good views in the Nimbokrang parrot tree. ORIOLIDAE Brown Oriole Oriolus szalayi: One or two seen on Batanta and Salawati but only heard elsewhere. A cryptically-plumaged bird that mimics more aggressive friarbirds. DICRURIDAE Mountain Drongo Chaetorhynchus papuensis: Excellent scope views of one found by Brian on the Mokwom Road. An uncommon bird and the only drongo not in the genus Dicrurus but now thought perhaps to be a fantail. Spangled Drongo Dicrurus bracteatus: Fairly common in the lowlands, with a maximum 10 on Numfor. GRALLINADAE Torrent-lark Grallina bruijni: A pair on the river on the first day of the Lake Habbema trek. This was a good sighting of a difficult species relatively uncommon, shy and inhabiting usually inaccessible torrents. This one was all but inaccessible! ARTAMIDAE White-breasted Woodswallow Artamus leucorhynchus: One from the boat and four from land at Senpang Island and one at Sorong airport. 30 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

31 Great Woodswallow Artamus maximus: Good views of four on the drive up to Lake Habbema, and six over the forest around the Yaloye camp. A large montane forest endemic equivalent of the preceding species. CRACTICIDAE Hooded Butcherbird Cracticus cassicus: Notably common on Biak, where up to 12 were seen daily, but less common at all other lowland sites. A common species with a beautiful song but a bit too vociferous on Biak where it drowned out other birds! Black Butcherbird Cracticus quoyi: One perched up and gave good brief views and a couple more heard at Nimbokrang. Lowland Peltops Peltops blainvillii: Good scope views of a pair at Oransberi. Another New Guinea wonder: are peltopses really closely related to butcherbirds? Mountain Peltops Peltops montanus: Excellent views of one or two on the Mokwom Road. Remarkably similar to the preceding species. PTILONORHYNCHIDAE White-eared Catbird Ailuroedus buccoides (H): Several heard at Nimbokrang where they typically remained hidden out of sight. Macgregor s Bowerbird Amblyornis macgregoriae (NL): One seen near the Yaloye camp by Brian, who managed to see its orange crest. Vogelkop Bowerbird Amblyornis inornatus: Singles seen and heard most days, but the bowers were by far the most impressive aspect of this bird. We were shown several magnificent bowers, which must be one of the best creations of any bird, and one of the ornithological wonders of the world. Endemic to the Vogelkop. Flame Bowerbird Sericulus aureus: Several seen in flight and one perched for amazing scope views on the Mokwom Road. These northern watershed birds are likely to be split as Masked Bowerbird on the basis of different altitudinal range and their black mask. Fawn-breasted Bowerbird Chlamydera cerviniventris: Three seen, including scope views of perched birds, in bushes around the Lake Sentani grasslands. This species also occurs in northern Australia. PARADISAEIDAE Macgregor s Bird of Paradise Macgregoria pulchra: Three seen on the first morning above Lake Habbema, then one or two seen on a couple of occasions at the start of the Ibele Track. Sadly, recent research has shown that this species probably belongs with the Honeyeaters. Macgregor s Honeyeater of Paradise is treated as Vulnerable on the basis of hunting pressure but numbers seem to be stable around Habbema. Glossy-mantled Manucode Manucodia atra: One seen on the Twelve-wired display perch at Nimbokrang, good scope views of one calling from a treetop on Batanta and other singles seen on Batanta and near Lake Sentani. Jobi Manucode Manucodia jobiensis: One on the final optional visit to the forest patch at Lake Sentani was seen and heard well alongside a Glossy-mantled Manucode, and we were happy to retrospectively identify the first individual seen here also as a Jobi. It is named after Jobi, or Yapen, the largest island in Geelvink Bay. Long-tailed Paradigalla Paradigalla carunculata: The first group saw one well at the paradigalla viewpoint and then no fewer than four seen there by the second group. This West Papuan endemic is one of the least-known birds of paradise, probably a primitive species in which males also help to rear their young. 31 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

32 Magnificent Riflebird Ptiloris magnificus: Several heard and brief views of a female near the Victoria Crowned Pigeons, several heard distantly along the Mokwom road, and finally a male flying extremely close to us at Oransberi. Twelve-wired Bird of Paradise Seleucidis melanoleuca: A male seen on his display perch the first afternoon and next morning at Nimbokrang. A magnificent bird, behaving almost as well as it did for David Attenborough. Buff-tailed Sicklebill Epimachus albertisi (NL): One seen by Doug high in the Arfaks. Pale-billed Sicklebill Epimachus bruijnii: Two gave us the run-around at Nimbokrang, offering only repeated flight views, but then we had excellent views of a male on the way to the Victoria Crowned Pigeons. A poorly-known species endemic to lowland forests in northcentral New Guinea. Black Sicklebill Epimachus fastuosus: On the first trek up Gunung Nadim, a close calling bird was seen by some. On the second trek, one or two calling males were seen briefly but including good views of a perched bird. The largest bird of paradise at 110 cm larger than a pheasant with an amazing call. Brown Sicklebill Epimachus meyeri: One seen by some on the walk into the Yaloye camp and Brian saw another the next day. Arfak Astrapia Astrapia nigra: Four seen on the first trek up Gunung Nadim, and two on the second trek. This fancy bird is endemic to the Arfaks, and we were lucky to see it as it usually only occurs at higher altitudes. Splendid Astrapia Astrapia splendidissima: One seen by Louis from the Ibele Track viewpoint, then three seen by some on the steep first section of the trek and a total of seven around the Yaloye camp. Almost a West Papuan endemic. Superb Bird of Paradise Lophorina superba: One female seen well on the last day of the Lake Habbema trek, one female on the Mokwom Road and a pair seen displaying by John and Jonathan in a garden above Mokwom. Western Parotia Parotia sefilata: An immature male was seen by everyone at the display arena, performing some basic display moves such as puffing out a creamy corset. Femaleplumaged birds were remarkably common below this camp, with up to eight seen along the Mokwom road, but there were few sightings of full adult males. King of Saxony Bird of Paradise Pteridophora alberti: Two female-plumaged birds seen in the afternoon at Yaloye, and at least two female-plumaged birds and then a full adult male the next morning. The adult male was well worth the wait those antennae are amongst the most unusual of any bird feather, and a prize in anyone s head-dress. King Bird of Paradise Cicinnurus regius: Good views of a male high in his display tree at Nimbokrang, and two heard on Salawati. The male took some finding but was incredible such a small bird, so brightly plumaged and with such strange adornments. Magnificent Bird of Paradise Cicinnurus magnificus: Good views of a male at Nimbokrang, then a female on the Mokwom road, an adult and immature male at a display arena near Mokwom and two heard at Oransberi. A good series of records of this shy bird. Wilson s Bird of Paradise Cicinnurus respublica: Excellent close-up views of a male on Batanta. There was another probably immature male at the display arena and a further male was seen in a mixed flock on the walk down. In Guy s opinion, this is the most beautiful bird in the world but it is certainly a bit gaudy. Endemic to Batanta and nearby Waigeo islands. When naming this species, Prince Bonaparte expressed his disenchantment with the French republic, ensuring that since there could not be a paradisean republic, there should at least be a republican bird of paradise 32 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

33 Lesser Bird of Paradise Paradisaea minor: Female-plumaged birds were heard and seen near Lake Sentani and on the lower Mokwom Road, and several seen at Nimbokrang including calling and displaying males in a display tree. These males gave a classic bird of paradise display. Red Bird of Paradise Paradisaea rubra: One in the hills and three to five on two afternoons behind the village at Batanta. Another classic and beautiful bird of paradise, and endemic to islands around Batanta. CORVIDAE Grey Crow (Bare-eyed Crow) Corvus tristis: Small flocks were seen at Nimbokrang, Salawati and the Mokwom Road. An unusual crow grey with a squeaky voice. Torresian Crow (Australian Crow) Corvus orru: Small numbers were regularly seen, especially in open habitats. MAMMALS Narrow-striped Marsupial-Shrew Phascolosorex dorsalis: Three arboreal marsupials seen along the start of the Ibele Track were probably this species, not the next species, as they were much duller, especially on the underparts, and at higher altitude. Red-bellied Marsupial-Shrew Phascolosorex doriae: One seen very well on the second trek up Gunung Nadim. Greater Flying Fox (Bismarck Flying Fox) Pteropus neohibernicus: Eight flying over Nimbokrang one evening were large enough to be this species. Many other bats were seen but could not be identified. Indo-Pacific Bottle-nosed Dolphin Tursiops aduncus: One large pod of at least 30 dolphins on the return from Batanta Spinner Dolphin Stenella longirostris: A pod of at least five dolphins was seen close to the boat soon after departing Numfor. [Rat sp: Two rats caught by our guides in the grasslands beside Lake Habbema cannot be identified from the photographs. Most likely is the Moss-forest Rat Rattus arrogans (=R. niobe) but other rarer possibilities are the Glacier Rat Rattus richardsoni which is only known from rocky Alpine grasslands or even the White-toothed Melomys Melomys (Coccymys) albidens which is only known from six specimens taken by Lake Habbema in 1938.] Feral Pig Sus scrofa: One seen on Salawati. OTHER TAXA Brown Tree Snake Boiga irregularis: One on the road on Numfor. Other herps were not identified. 33 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

34 BIRDS OF THE TRIP 1. Wilson s Bird of Paradise 2. Numfor Paradise-Kingfisher 3. Western Parotia And multiple votes for: Western / Victoria Crowned Pigeons Blue-black Kingfisher Macgregor s Bird of Paradise Check out Jonathan s videos on the DVD or at 34 Birdquest: West Papua 2010

35 The most vivid memories of New Guinea are those of the mountains, the people and of course us the group! Clockwise from top left: team photo on the Habbema trek (Jonathan); porter (Guy); looking for Macgregor s Bird of Paradise (Jonathan) ; tree-ferns at Lake Habbema (Guy); Daniman (Guy); tropical island (Jonathan)

36 The favourite birds of the trip were Wilson s Bird of Paradise, Numfor Paradise-Kingfisher and Western Parotia. We didn t want to disturb any displaying birds with flash, so these photos are a bit impressionist Clockwise from top left Wilson s BoP (Guy; x2); Western Parotia (Jonathan); Numfor Paradise-Kingfisher (Guyx4); Wilson s BoP (Douglas; Jonathan).

37 The second division of favourite birds, also featured on our amateurish but evocative photographs, were Crowned Pigeons (Western and Victoria), Blue-black Kingfisher and Macgregor s Bird of Paradise. And the best bird creation were the Vogelkop Bowerbird bowers. Clockwise from top-left Macgregor s Bird of Paradise (Macgregor s Honeyeater) (Guyx3); Western Crowned Pigeon (Douglas); Victoria Crowned Pigeon (Jonathan); Vogelkop Bowerbird bowers (Guy; Jonathan) and Vogelkop Bowerbird (Jonathan).

38 Bird photography was really difficult! Not only were the birds shy and usually in dark forest, but there were too many new species lurking in the flock or around the corner for us to spend time behind cameras. These were the best images of other birds; clockwise from top left Plum-faced Lorikeet (Guy); Twelve-wired Bird of Paradise (Douglas); Lesser Bird of Paradise (Jonathan); Biak Paradise Kingfisher (Jonathan); Vulturine (Pesquet s) Parrot (Guy); Long-tailed Buzzard (Guy); Mountain Owlet-nightjar (Guy & Jonathan); Yellow-billed Kingfisher (Jonathan) and Beach Kingfisher (Douglas).