soutache bracelet designed by Alexandra Sydorenko

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SOUTACHE BEAD EMBROIDERY Serpentine soutache bracelet designed by Alexandra Sydorenko FCT-FCON0316_BNB117 stepbystep 2014 Kalmbach Publishing Co.

2 cm) square of beading foundation, and draw a diagonal line from one corner to the opposite corner.

Allow the glue to dry, and then trim the foundation, leaving a 2 3 mm border on all four sides (photo a). [3] Tie a double knot (Soutache Basics, p. 57) at one end of 1 yd. (.9 m) of thread.

1 SOUTACHE BEAD EMBROIDERY Serpentine soutache bracelet designed by Alexandra Sydorenko FCT-FCON0316_BNB117 stepbystep 2014 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher. Cabochon component [1] Cut a in. (3.2 cm) square of beading foundation, and draw a diagonal line from one corner to the opposite corner. [2] Apply a thin coat of E6000 on the back of the 22 mm square cabochon, and place it in the center of the foundation. Allow the glue to dry, and then trim the foundation, leaving a 2 3 mm border on all four sides (photo a). [3] Tie a double knot (Soutache Basics, p. 57) at one end of 1 yd. (.9 m) of thread. Trim the tail close to the knot. [4] Cut a in. (14 cm) piece of soutache braid in each of the three colors, and create a stack by laying one braid on top of the other, with color C on top, color A in the middle, and color B on the bottom. Make sure the center Vs of all three braids are pointing in the same direction. [5] Locate the center of the stack, and sew through the center Vs of all three braids from bottom to top. Sew down through the stack about 1 4 in. (6 mm) away. [6] Lay the stack along the edge of the cabochon, with the B braid closest to the cabochon and the knot aligned with an unmarked corner of the foundation. Sew down through the foundation next to the cabochon, and then sew back up through the foundation and the stack about 1 4 in. (6 mm) away. Repeat these two stitches until you are within 1 4 in. (6 mm) of the next corner (photo b). [7] Pick up a 4 mm bead, curve the stack around the bead in the opposite direction, and sew through the stack where it meets the hole of the bead (photo c). Make two or three small stitches through the stack, bring the stack around the other side of the bead, and end the stack (Soutache Basics and photo d). facetjewelry.com

Difficulty rating Create ribbons of soutache braid that meander through clusters of SuperDuos and flow around a cabochon.

5 x 5 mm SuperDuo beads (full amber) 10 4 mm fire-polished beads (magic apple; www.redpandabeads.

com) 1 g 80 seed beads (Miyuki 9577, dyed cream silver-lined alabaster) 1 g 110 seed beads (Miyuki 9577, dyed cream

com) 2 3 mm daisy spacers (gold) toggle clasp 1 8-in. (3 mm) domestic soutache braid 27 in. (69 cm) color A (rose) 43 in. (1.

2 cm) square of beading foundation, such as Lacy s Stiff Stuff 3-in. (7.

colors: 22 mm square cabochon (Luna Soft, spearmint) 2.

2 Difficulty rating Create ribbons of soutache braid that meander through clusters of SuperDuos and flow around a cabochon. Materials green bracelet in. (19.1 cm) 1 22 mm square cabochon (Luna Soft, olive) x 5 mm SuperDuo beads (full amber) 10 4 mm fire-polished beads (magic apple; mm fire-polished beads, optional (magic apple; 1 g 80 seed beads (Miyuki 9577, dyed cream silver-lined alabaster) 1 g 110 seed beads (Miyuki 9577, dyed cream silver-lined alabaster) 1 g 150 seed beads, optional (Miyuki 3564, peach-lined transparent chartreuse AB; mm daisy spacers (gold) toggle clasp 1 8-in. (3 mm) domestic soutache braid 27 in. (69 cm) color A (rose) 43 in. (1.1 m) color B (celery/ivy stripe) 27 in. (69 cm) color C (celery) Fireline 6 lb. test beading needles, # in. (3.2 cm) square of beading foundation, such as Lacy s Stiff Stuff 3-in. (7.6 cm) square of leather or Ultrasuede backing E6000 adhesive paper pencil or marker small craft scissors a c b d blue bracelet colors: 22 mm square cabochon (Luna Soft, spearmint) 2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuo beads (moon dust turquoise) 4 mm fire-polished beads (turquoise Picasso) 80 seed beads (Czech, green iris) 110 seed beads (Toho 264, inside-color rainbow crystal teal) 3 mm daisy spacers (silver) 1 8-in. (3 mm) domestic soutache braid: color A (teal), color B (beige), color C (silver) Nymo nylon beading thread (cream), in place of Fireline Materials continued on p

e f g h i j k l [8] Bring the thread across the back of the cabochon, and sew through the foundation and the stack near the knot.

[9] Repeat steps 4 8 along the other two sides of the cabochon (photo e). Bracelet bands Center straps [1] Tie a double knot at one end of 1 yd.

Create a two-braid stack with color A on top. Locate the center of the stack, and sew through it from bottom to top.

56 [4] Sew back through the stack about exited, with the needle at an angle (photo g).

hole of this last SuperDuo (photo h). [5] Sew back through the stack about exited, with the needle at an angle.

sew through the stack where it meets the hole of this SuperDuo. [6] Sew back through the stack about exited, with the needle at an angle.

[7] Pinch the two stacks together after the last SuperDuo, and sew through all four braids close to the last bead (photo k).

[8] Work as in steps 3 7 to add three more SuperDuo clusters (photo l). Do not end the thread. [9] Make a second center strap.

3 e f g h i j k l [8] Bring the thread across the back of the cabochon, and sew through the foundation and the stack near the knot. Work as in step 6 to secure the stack to this side of the cabochon. Then repeat step 7 to add a 4 mm bead. End the thread (Soutache Basics). [9] Repeat steps 4 8 along the other two sides of the cabochon (photo e). Bracelet bands Center straps [1] Tie a double knot at one end of 1 yd. (.9 m) of thread. Trim the tail close to the knot. [2] Cut an 8-in. (20 cm) piece of color A and color C braid. Create a two-braid stack with color A on top. Locate the center of the stack, and sew through it from bottom to top. [3] Sew back through the stack, pick up a 2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuo bead, and sew through the stack on the other side of the SuperDuo (photo f). 56 [4] Sew back through the stack about exited, with the needle at an angle (photo g). Pick up a SuperDuo, sew through the available hole of the existing SuperDuo, pick up a SuperDuo, and sew through the stack where it meets the hole of this last SuperDuo (photo h). [5] Sew back through the stack about exited, with the needle at an angle. Sew through the available hole of the nearest SuperDuo, pick up a SuperDuo (photo i), sew through the available hole of the next SuperDuo, and sew through the stack where it meets the hole of this SuperDuo. [6] Sew back through the stack about exited, with the needle at an angle. Sew through the available hole of the last SuperDuo, and sew through the other stack where it meets the hole of this SuperDuo (photo j). [7] Pinch the two stacks together after the last SuperDuo, and sew through all four braids close to the last bead (photo k). Make two small stitches about 1 2 mm apart through all four braids. This completes the first Super- Duo cluster. [8] Work as in steps 3 7 to add three more SuperDuo clusters (photo l). Do not end the thread. [9] Make a second center strap. Side straps [1] Tie a double knot at one end of 2 ft. (61 cm) of thread. [2] Cut an 8-in. (20 cm) piece of color B braid, and fold it in half. [3] Sew through one of the center straps from inside to outside near the top hole of the first SuperDuo (photo m). Sew through the B braid near the fold, pick up an 80 seed bead, and sew through the other side of the B braid where it meets the hole of the bead

Materials continued from p. 55 m o n p purple bracelet colors: 22 mm square cabochon (Luna Soft, lilac) 2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuo beads (Vega on chalk; www.redpandabeads.

amethystlined crystal AB) 110 seed beads (Toho 395C, raspberry clear-lined rose; www.whimbeads.com) 3 mm daisy spacers (silver) 1 8-in.

Sew back through the B braid, the 80, the B braid, and the stack of the center strap.

Sew back through the B braid, the 80, the B braid, and the stack. Repeat this step to add a total of three 80s.

Continue to work as in steps 3 7 of Center straps to add a total of three SuperDuo clusters between the B braids, making sure to secure this side strap to the center strap (photo o).

[7] Work as in steps 1 6 to make a second side strap, and secure it to the r other side of this center strap. This completes one bracelet band.

4 Materials continued from p. 55 m o n p purple bracelet colors: 22 mm square cabochon (Luna Soft, lilac) 2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuo beads (Vega on chalk; 4 mm Czech glass pearls, in place of fire-polished beads (rose) 3 mm bicone crystals, in place of 2 of the 4 mm fire-polished beads (Swarovski, crystal AB) 80 seed beads (Miyuki 274, amethystlined crystal AB) 110 seed beads (Toho 395C, raspberry clear-lined rose; 3 mm daisy spacers (silver) 1 8-in. (3 mm) domestic soutache braid: color A (navy), color B (beige), color C (mauve) Nymo nylon beading thread (rose), in place of Fireline q (photo n). Sew back through the B braid, the 80, the B braid, and the stack of the center strap. [4] Sew back through the stack and the B braid about one bead s width away, pick up an 80, and sew through the B braid where it meets the hole of the bead. Sew back through the B braid, the 80, the B braid, and the stack. Repeat this step to add a total of three 80s. [5] Sew back through the stack and the B braid, pick up a SuperDuo, and sew through the B braid where it meets the hole of the SuperDuo. Continue to work as in steps 3 7 of Center straps to add a total of three SuperDuo clusters between the B braids, making sure to secure this side strap to the center strap (photo o). [6] Work as in step 7 of Cabochon component to add a 4 mm bead (photo p), and end the stack. [7] Work as in steps 1 6 to make a second side strap, and secure it to the r other side of this center strap. This completes one bracelet band. [8] Repeat steps 1 7 to secure two side straps to the other center strap, completing the other bracelet band. Assembly [1] Position one of the bracelet bands behind the cabochon component at one of the marked corners. With the working thread from the center strap, secure the band to the foundation with small stitches up through the foundation and back down through the band (photo q). [2] Sew through the stack above one of the 4 mm beads at the end of a side strap. Pick up an 80, and sew through the corresponding stack in the cabochon component. Retrace the thread path, and then repeat this step to add another 80 (photo r). [3] Bring the thread across the back of the piece, and repeat step 2 for the other side strap on this bracelet band. SOUTACHE BASICS Double knot Tie one overhand knot. Tie another overhand knot, but slide it down to the first knot before pulling the thread tight. Ending a stack Push the loose ends of the stack to the back of your work, and fan them out so they lie as flat as possible. Sew up from the back through all the layers, and exit the side of one braid on the front of your work. Sew down through all the layers as close as possible to the point where the thread exited, sewing through the side of the same braid. Repeat this stitch several times to secure the stack, and trim the ends. Ending the thread To end the thread. Sew to the back of your work, and make a few small stitches in the closest braid. Tie a knot, and trim the thread close to the knot. 57

s t [4] Sew up through the band and the foundation at the marked corner of the cabochon.

[5] Sew up through the center band and the foundation at the base of the nearest SuperDuo cluster, pick up a 4 mm bead, and sew down through the center strap in the band (photo t).

Backing [1] Trace the outline of the cabochon component and the bracelet bands up to and including the 4 mm beads of the side straps onto a piece of paper (photo u). Cut out the shape.

Place the backing on the back of the piece, and allow it to dry completely. u [4] Tie a double knot at the end of 15 in.

[5] Sew up between the two outside braids to the front of the piece. Making a 2 mm stitch, sew down between the two outside braids, the foundation, and the backing.

Sew through the available end of the center strap on one side of the SuperDuo from inside to outside. Pick up a 4 mm bead, an 80, five 110s, and half of the clasp.

5 s t [4] Sew up through the band and the foundation at the marked corner of the cabochon. Pick up a 3 mm daisy spacer and an 110 seed bead, and sew back down through the spacer, the foundation, and the band (photo s). [5] Sew up through the center band and the foundation at the base of the nearest SuperDuo cluster, pick up a 4 mm bead, and sew down through the center strap in the band (photo t). Retrace the thread path, and end the thread. [6] Work as in steps 1 5 to assemble the other bracelet band on the opposite side of the cabochon component. Backing [1] Trace the outline of the cabochon component and the bracelet bands up to and including the 4 mm beads of the side straps onto a piece of paper (photo u). Cut out the shape. [2] Trace the shape onto a leather or Ultrasuede backing, and cut it out. [3] Apply a small amount of E6000 to the back of the piece, covering the ends of the stacks. Place the backing on the back of the piece, and allow it to dry completely. u [4] Tie a double knot at the end of 15 in. (38 cm) of thread, and sew through the edge of the foundation around the cabochon, hiding the knot between the backing and the foundation. [5] Sew up between the two outside braids to the front of the piece. Making a 2 mm stitch, sew down between the two outside braids, the foundation, and the backing. Repeat these stitches around the entire backing. End the thread. Clasp [1] Tie a double knot at the end of 1 ft. (30 cm) of thread. Sew through the available end of the center strap on one side of the SuperDuo from inside to outside. Pick up a 4 mm bead, an 80, five 110s, and half of the clasp. Sew back through all the beads and the stack. Retrace the thread path several times. [2] Sew back through the beads, the clasp, and the five 110s. Pick up an 80 and a 4 mm, and sew through the center strap on the other side of the SuperDuo (photo v). Retrace the thread path several times, and end the thread. [3] Repeat steps 1 and 2 at the other end of the band. v Optional embellishment [1] Tie a double knot at the end of 2 ft. (61 cm) of thread, and sew through the stack around the cabochon near a 4 mm bead. [2] Pick up a 3 mm fire-polished bead and a 150 seed bead, and sew back through the 3 mm and the stack. [3] Sew back through the stack about one bead s width away, pick up an 80 and a 150, and sew back through the 80 and the stack. [4] Repeat steps 2 and 3 to embellish the edge of the cabochon component. [5] Sew between the backing and the foundation to exit the opposite edge of the cabochon component, and repeat steps 2 4. Alexandra Sydorenko has been beading since childhood. She teaches at a bead store near where she lives in New Jersey with her husband, daughter, and a mischievous cockatiel who likes to test the durability of her designs with his beak. Contact her at oleksandrasydorenko@gmail.com, or visit her online shop at shop/alexandrabeads. 58

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