Required tools (see photos).
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1 For Jewelry Making for Beginners at Arlington Community Education November, 2016 To students, in addition to required tools and materials, this document also describes some optional items that you might find useful. However, please do not feel obligated to buy more than the required items. It is most important that you come to class with: (1) your own set of the basic, required tools* and (2) beads that you like and other simple materials to enable you to create some jewelry, as well as practice the skills. Feel free to contact me with any questions: Sue Doctrow, (*if you happen to attend the class with a friend, you can share one wire cutter and crimping tool because you do not need those frequently). Required tools (see photos). Chain nose pliers - to grip and shape wire Round nose pliers - to shape wire, including into loops Crimping tool - to shape crimp beads for finishing off a necklace or bracelet professionally Flush wire cutter - to cut wire precisely and close Beading mat or "Bead Buddy" (or similar) design board - (IMPORTANT); to prevent beads from rolling onto floor while laying out designs Make sure all tools are specifically made for jewelry by buying them in craft stores (online or local). Pliers from the hardware store have ridges inside that will mar the wire so should not be used. You do not need to buy the most expensive tools but buy good quality ones that operate smoothly and feel comfortable to work with. The brand Beadsmith is found in many craft shops (pliers are generally less than $10 each) and are of good quality. It is possible to buy jewelry tool kits online that are less expensive, but be sure they are the quality tools you will want to work with. Avoid the "mini-plier" sets that seem to be primarily designed to be portable, for travel. Photos: (L to R), top row: chain nose and round nose pliers; bottom row: crimping tool and flush cutters. "Bead Buddy" design tray (L) or bead mat (R). (Beads are for illustration only.) 1
2 Required materials: Beads, beads and more beads! I decided not to provide beads selected by me for a "material fee" for this class because I thought each student would want to make jewelry that fits his or her personal style and preference. The beads will define the character of the jewelry you make in this class so find beads that you love! There is an endless array of beads made of gemstones, glass, plastic, wood, crystal, metal and other materials. Choose several different types of beads that look good together. Ensure that you have enough for the length necklace and/or bracelet that you may want to make, as well as additional beads and/or charms to dangle on earrings. Ensure, too, that you have enough extra beads to allow you to experiment with various designs. Consider mixing complementary beads of various sizes and materials to add interest to your pieces. (For example, I enjoy combining natural gemstones with pearls, wood or glass in some of my designs). If you like large, chunky beads, make sure that you also buy some small accent beads (crystal, glass, metal or even smaller gemstone beads) which often look good to provide spacing between larger beads. You might even want a very large focal bead for the center of a necklace. Findings: Findings are clasps, earwires and other small pieces that go into the jewelry and are usually made of metal. For this class, inexpensive brass, copper, gold-plated or silver-plated findings are fine. The type of clasp (toggle, hook and eye, lobster clasp, etc) depends on your personal preference. Each must have a hole/loop/ring enabling the beading wire to be threaded through. Similarly, the type of earwire depends on your preference, classic French hooks or more secure leverbacks for pierced ears; clip style for ears that are not pierced. (If you have metal sensitivity, you might want to buy earwires in surgical stainless steel or sterling silver; or niobium is a material with a burnished coppery look that is advertised as being hypoallergenic.) Another option, especially for the metal-sensitive: if you have any inexpensive dangling earrings you do not wear anymore but that you know you can wear comfortably, we should be able to remove the earwires in class and you can reuse them in your new designs.) For this class, be sure to bring: Clasp (one for each necklace or bracelet you want to make) Earwires (at least one pair) Crimping beads (at least one small package with several beads; I like the 2 mm tube shape, but 1 mm length is also fine) Earring headpins (These are optional if you want a very simple beaded look but we will also be learning to make our own decorative headpins with wire. If you buy them, make them as long as possible to give you room to form a loop at the top; the excess can be trimmed off.) Wire: Beading Wire, one spool (~30 ft), inch. This is steel wire coated with nylon that we will use for necklaces and bracelets; the more strands it has, the stronger and the softer the "drape". I use 49-strand beading wire routinely but 19- or 21-strand are nice, too, and will cost a little less. The 7-strand types are stiffer and less strong. Be sure to get wire of or inch diameter. This is a good general purpose size. Thinner beading wire (e.g in) is available but, especially with heavy gemstone beads, it can break. Good brands are Beadalon and Accuflex. BE SURE THAT YOUR WIRE FITS THROUGH YOUR BEADS WHEN DOUBLED -- if not, get thinner wire (e.g inch) or beads with larger holes. 2
3 Craft Wire (also called Artistic Wire), at least one spool or coil, 20 Ga size. This is metal wire that is soft and can be shaped using the wire-wrapping techniques we will learn. It usually comes in spools or coils of several yards. Eventually, you will want to work with precious metal (sterling silver, 14 kt gold-filled) or other metals (copper, brass) but craft wire is inexpensive and good for learning the techniques and creating some fun beaded jewelry. Choose the color(s) you like, preferably silver, gold or copper colors. It is also sold in other colors but some of these are coated and the colors can wear off. Plus, the look of silver, gold or copper with the beads is "classic" and will match the other findings. It comes in various diameters. For this class, please buy 20 gauge. This will create strong items and will fit through most beads. If you do wish to use sterling silver or other precious metal wire instead, buy it in a round shape and "half-hard". Half hard is soft enough to work by wirewrapping (and can be hardened later by hammering). However, unless you have prior experience in wire-wrapping, you will need a lot of practice and much wire will be wasted. So, I recommend craft wire instead of precious metal. It will allow you the freedom to experiment without wasting costly silver or gold. AGAIN: Be sure that the wire will fit through your beads. Some guidelines for selecting materials: Start by finding a strand of interesting gemstone beads (colors, size and shape) that you love and then look for other, simpler, beads to match and/or complement them. Repurposing old beaded necklaces is another approach! Feel free to bring your old beaded necklaces (or necklaces from Thrift shops) to take apart and recycle in your new designs. The only criterion is that you like the beads and that you bring along other components that will look good with them. Often the clasps (see below under Findings) can also be reused. Do not buy natural freshwater pearls for this class. Often the holes in natural pearls are drilled very small and the beading wires we will use in this beginner class will not fit. If you'd like the iridescent look of pearls, instead consider Swarovski crystal pearls, available at Playtime in many beautiful colors. Start local, where you can see the materials in person and choose what you really like. As you gain experience, you will be able to buy some items online but, because the colors and textures are so important, and the natural materials in particular can vary, you are less likely to be disappointed if you buy what you can see and touch first. Make sure your findings, craft wire and any metal accent or "spacer" beads match, generally either silver, gold or copper colors. (Or, if you want to mix metals in your design, of course, feel free to do so!) Places to buy materials and tools: Things We Love on Mass Ave in Arlington Heights has a vast selection of beads in all materials and price ranges. The gemstone beads are hung on the wall in color families, which makes it easier to start with color schemes that appeal to you most. The owner told me she will give a 20% discount to students in this class. (She said to tell her that it is Sue's beginning Jewelry Class at Arlington Community Education.) They also have some Beadsmith tools in stock, and various findings, some craft wire and other materials. Playtime on Broadway in Arlington Center has a wonderful selection of jewelry supplies downstairs. There are many beautiful Czech glass and other beads packaged in small bags. There is also a great selection of Swarovski pearls and crystals (the crystals are in a case; you buy them individually or in 3
4 quantity -- they are expensive for an entire necklace, but they make gorgeous accent beads). If you have an Arlington Community Card, you get a 10% discount on purchases over $10. There are many different findings in various base (inexpensive) metals in small packages on the racks. They also have sterling silver clasps and other findings in the back room -- ask them if you are interested. They stock some tools and will order more for you. They also sell the beading design boards described under "Required Tools". Craft shops like Michael's and JoAnn's stock jewelry supplies and tools. Good online vendors include: Firemountainbeads.com (beads, findings, tools); Artbeads.com (unique beads and charms, findings); RioGrande.com (various jewelry supplies and more expensive tools; a good source for precious metal wire). You can purchase unique handmade beads (e.g. lampwork glass or polymer clay) directly from artists on Etsy.com and some Etsy shops also sell other supplies. ********************************* Optional tools, nice to have eventually. (I will bring mine so you can try them): Pliers, bent-nose - similar to chain-nose, also good for gripping, shaping wire Nylon jaw pliers - straightening wire without marring Jeweler's files - for smoothing the cut ends of wires; especially important if you make your own earwires Hammer(s) - metal chasing head for flattening wire; nylon or rubber head for strengthening wire without changing its shape Steel anvil or bench block - a surface to hammer on Bead reamer - to enlarge bead holes when necessary to fit the wire (it has a narrow, tapered filing tip) Photo: Optional tools (from top, clockwise) bentnose pliers (red handle), nylon jaw pliers, jeweler's files, chasing hammer and steel anvil (or bench block, not shown), bead reamer (blue handle). 4
5 Optional for pearl knotting: In the third session, interested students can learn to knot pearls. (This technique can also be used for other beads). This will require a few additional items. I am not sure if Playtime sells the forceps, but they do sell all the other supplies. (I will provide glue for the knots at each end.) Needle-nose forceps/tweezers (not jewelry-specific; drugstores and perhaps hardware stores have them) Pearls (I suggest Swarovski pearls) or other beads Silk Bead Cord (with attached disposable needle), The No. 6 size is good for most pearls; larger gauge for larger beads. Clamshell findings for each end Clasp and jump rings to attach it to clamshell finding (e.g. small split rings from Playtime) Photo. Items for pearl-knotting (see list) Useful books. These books, especially Lareau's, are great for learning wire-wrapping because of their detailed instructions and illustrations. Unfortunately, both appear to be out of print but they are available from second party sellers through Amazon.com (in both used and new versions). Both are also listed in the Minuteman Library Network catalog. 1. All Wired Up by Mark Lareau 2. Making Designer Bead and Wire Jewelry by Tammy Powley 5
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