A Concept Note & Pre-feasibility Study Report on Setting up of CFC for Handicrafts Mega Cluster, Lucknow (Craft: Chikankari)

Transcription

1 A Concept Note & Pre-feasibility Study Report on Setting up of CFC for Handicrafts Mega Cluster, Lucknow (Craft: Chikankari) Prepared By: NORTHERN INDIA TEXTILE RESEARCH ASSOCIATION (Linked to Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India) Sector-23, Raj Nagar, Ghaziabad (U.P.) Ph: /94/95 Fax:

2 1. Background Utter Pradesh is well known for Fine woven brocades from Varanasi and delicate Chikan work (embroidery using white thread upon fine white cotton fabric). Brocades are textiles woven with warp and weft threads of different colors and often of different materials. The Banaras brocades are woven in silk, with profuse use of metal threads on the pallavs (end pieces) and the field of the sari. The important traditional weaving centers of Varanasi known for their distinctive style and designs are Madanpura and Alaipura. Each has its distinctive style of weaving. The most famous brocaded textile of Varanasi is called kinkhab (a Persian term) woven with a coarse but durable silk known as mukta which is heavy enough to take brocading with gold or silver thread. Chikankari is a famous and popular embroidery work that is known all over India. The 400-year-old art of Chikan embroidery in its present form was developed in Lucknow and it is the only place to preserve this art today. It is mainly practiced in and around Lucknow, famed for its tehzeeb or refined style of behaviour where chikankari reached its most elaborate and distinctive form. Chikankari is famous as shadow work and is a very delicate and artistic hand embroidery done using white thread on fine white cotton cloth usually fine muslin or chiffons. Sometimes yellowish muga silk was also used in addition to the white thread. The work is done on topis (caps), kurtas, saris, cogds (a kind of scarf) and other outfits. There are number of tales narrate about the birth and development of this subtle art. When it comes to international fairs and exhibitions Indian chikankari just stands ahead in terms of its impeccable designs and patterns. The growing reach and global appeal of this delicate threadwork can be attributed to its exquisite style and fine needle work which is just unparalleled. This unique handcrafted artistry has become a symbol of Indian culture and is often called as Indian embroidery in international market.

3 STRUCTURE OF THE ENTERPRISES IN THE CLUSTER Turnover Rs. Per annum Number of Enterprises 2-5 Crores Crores Lacs Lacs Lacs 2000 Total 5065 This global recognition of indigenous embroidery has also boosted the chikankari industry in India in terms of revenue and skill enhancement of workers engaged. The Indian chikankari exporters are religiously eying the untapped market overseas. About 5065 entrepreneurs are engaged in manufacturing hand embroidery chikan garments and fabrics for sale in local, national and international markets. It has become an absolute necessity to make our indigenous sector more organized so that the supply matches the demand without compromising with the quality. 2. The Need Govt. of India through HMCM has identified this cluster (Luknow) as one of the mega clusters. It has also been decided to provide necessary intervention so that the crafts persons can be benefited. The basic objectives are to assist the stakeholders with modern infrastructure at block levels, making available the latest technology, design innovations, adequate training and human resource development (HRD) and appropriate market linkages. The guiding principle underlying the design of clusters would create modern infrastructure and integrate the production chain in a manner that caters to the requirements of the handicraft artisans working in the clusters.

4 Chikan embroidery in Lucknow is the biggest artisan-based cluster of India. As noted earlier, there are about 250,000 artisans of hand embroidery associated with this cluster. Apart from this, artisans from other fields such as cutting, stitching, hand block textile printing, jali work and washer men are also a part of this cluster. The total number of artisans, thus, associated with chikan embroidery cluster, other than chikankari artisans, is about Chikan embroidery not only provides employment to about 250,000 artisans of different crafts, but people from non-craft base also earn their livelihood by associating themselves with this craft. Expected number of non-artisans earning their bread and butter from this craft is about one million (ibid.). They may be contractors, manufacturers, retailers, raw material providers or employees with manufacturers. In this context, it is felt that a Common Facility Centre (CFC) in Luknow Mega Cluster would be helpful for the artisans in carrying out processing, dyeing, printing and finishing of the textile materials to make the chikankari crafts. They may also need an effluent treatment plant to treat the effluent discharged from the processing units. Keeping this in mind, Govt. of India through Handicraft Mega Cluster Mission (HMCM) proposed to address this issue for the benefits of the small and tiny processors. Upgrading and modernizing the existing facility with state of art plant, equipment and machinery for improving quality and finishes of the final product right from the stage of raw material up to stage of finished products through various stake holders on self sustaining basis is also needed. With this in mind, HMCM approached NITRA for the preparation of Concept Note through conducting a pre-feasibility study for the up gradation of the present facility and setting up a well equipped CFC at Lucknow. Accordingly, two technical experts from NITRA visited the Lucknow, Chikankari crafts cluster on to know the

5 present status and find out the need of artisans engaged in the craft. During the above visit NITRA experts interacted with the stakeholders and collected all the related information. The findings of the study done by NITRA are summarized in this report. NITRA experts also visited the SEWA (Self Employed Women Association) & Nehru Yuva Kendra as well as Dhobi Ghat at the bank of Gomati river. At SEWA, NITRA experts had a detailed discussion with the artisans on the Chikankari process including the type of product mix, process sequence performed by them from the beginning to the finished product. 3. Present status Based on the preliminary survey of the Luknow chikankari clusters following findings can be drawn: No. of Enterprises: 5065 (approx.) No. of craftsman: 2,50,000(approx.) Raw Material: Type of Fabrics (white or coloured): 100% Cotton, Viscose, Silk, linen, Semi Georgette, Pure Georgette, Crepe, Chiffon, Organdie, Muslin cloth, Poplin, cambric, Khadi, Handloom cloth, Terry Cotton etc. Type of Yarns (white or coloured): 100% polyester, 100% cotton (fine untwisted), Polyester/Cotton Blends, yellowish muga silk, tussah Silk etc Dyes used: Reactive dye, Acid dye, Basic dye & Disperse dye. Production size: Approx. 50 kg./day (both Fabric & yarn)

6 4. Manufacturing Process: The manufacturing process may be followed for the processing of yarn/fabric require for the Chikankari craft is described below: Desizing: The grey fabric/yarn should be well desized to remove the starch from the fabric so as to increase the absorbency for the further process. Bleaching: To remove the natural yellowing or colouring matter from the fabric/yarn to get the white fabric with enhanced absorbency and better look. Dyeing: Fabric/yarn to be dyed with the required shade by the combination of two or three colours Design: A design is conceptualized the designers for the complete piece viz. a saree, a top and sherwani etc. At the time of deciding the design various motifs and their placements are finalized, to get that complete effect on the final apparel. Engraving: These design patterns is then engraved on a wooden block or at times sketching it manually. There are thousands of pre made blocks / motifs already available and the new ones are designed from time to time to meet the new fashion demands. Block Printing (Tracing): Once the block is ready then the printing is done on the fabric. Printing is carried out by the use of wooden blocks dipped in dyes like neel and safeda to make a pattern. Embroidery: The printed fabric then reaches the craftsmen who get to work with the cloth stretched by a wooden frame or Karchop. They do the enriching embroidery using a variety of stitches. These stitches are done on the same pattern which is engraved on the fabric by block printing.

7 Washing & finishing: After the embroidery, the fabric reaches the laundry and is thoroughly washed and given the finishing touches. This includes bleaching, acid treatment, stiffening or starching and ironing. PRODUCTION CHAIN for CHIKANKARI craft: For Stitch items: For Un-stitched items Cloth/Fabric Cloth/Fabric Cutting Garmenting /stitching Desizing Scouring +Bleaching Mercerisation Dyeing Tracing Embrodiery Jali work Final stitching Washing Pressing/Ironing Finishing Desizing Scouring+ Bleaching Mercerisation Dyeing Cutting Tracing Embrodiery Jali work Pico Washing Pressing/Ironing Finishing Final product Final product

8 5. The Proposal: It has been observed by NITRA during the visit to the cluster that presently, the Lucknow chikankari craftsmen are using the traditional way of dyeing yarn and fabric, manual washing and sunlight drying process which ultimately resulting in poor quality of final product in terms of washing and rubbing fastness etc. It has further been noticed that the number of artisans engaged in this craft is very small and it is expected that in near future more tiny units of printing and dyeing may migrate to this cluster if advanced level facilities are available. Keeping in view of above, it is proposed to have machine-based printing, dyeing, washing and drying at CFC. This will not only drastically improve quality of final product but also will reduce the time taken for washing (12 hour in CFC against 3-4 days in summer and nearly a week time during winter season). A quality control laboratory with complete paraphernalia for checking quality of raw materials, in process and finished products is also proposed to be included. Following are the details of facilities which are proposed for the CFC to improve their present working style by facilitating them with the state art of modern technology and improved infrastructure. (i) Land and Building: a. Land: - Tentative land Requirement : 800 sq. mt. b. Work Shed: - Required area for Machinery : 600 sq. mt. (Pretreatment, Dyeing & Finishing) - Others area : 50 sq. mt. (Office/Lab area/store)

9 c. Open Area - Total requirement : 150 sq. mt. (for the CETP, boiler, etc) (ii) Machinery and Equipments: A. Processing and Dyeing Machineries: Sr. Type of Machine Requirement No. 1 HTHP hank dyeing M/c 1-5Kg capacity 3 Nos 2 Arm hank dyeing M/c 5kg. capacity 1 No 3 Hydro extractor (5 kg capacity), 2 Nos 4 Hank Yarn Drier (5-10 Kg capacity) 2 Nos 5 Jigger Machine 1 No 6 Winch Dyeing Machine (1-5kg) 2 Nos 7 Drum washer(6kg) 1 No 8 Drum washer(9kg) 1 No 9 Drum Dyeing Machine (5kg) 1 No 10 Tumbler Dryer (5kg) 1 No 11 Open width fabric Drying Machine (ministenter) 1 No 12 Open dyeing cistern (1 ft x 1.5ft x 2.5 ft), 1.5 ft x 1.5ft x 2.5 ft),(2 ft x 2 ft x 2.5 ft) 5 Nos B. Other accessories for Dyeing facility: Sr. Name of accessories Requirement No. 1 Textile batching trolley(a-frame) 2 Nos 2 Trolley (1.50 Mtrx1.05 Mtrx) 5 Nos 3 Block Printing Table (10 mtr x 1.5mtr) 1 No 4 Blocks for printing purpose - 5 Weighing balance Platform type (50kg 1 No capacity) 6 Weighing balance Platform type (2kg capacity) 1 No

10 7 Cone to hank winder (power operated) 2 Nos 8 Electrical Stirrer 1 No C. Laboratory machines and Equipments: Sr. Type of Machine and Equipments Requirement No. 1 Lab HTHP dyeing machine 1 No 2 Laundr-o-meter 1 No 3 Matching Cabinet 1 No 4 Grey Scale for colour change 1 No 5 Grey Scale for staining 1 No 6 Crock-o-meter 1 No 7 Electronic weighing balance (0-250 gm) 1 No (display up to four decimal) 8 Electrical Stirrer 1 No 9 Hot air oven 1 No 10 Count Tester : ( Beesely balance) 1 No 11 Motorised, automatic, digital wrap reel 1 No 12 Sample Cutter for GSM 1 No D. Utilities: Sr. No. Name Requirement 1 ETP (5-6KLD) 1 No 2 Borewell (5KLD) 1 No 3 Water softening plant (4-5KLD) 1 No E. Miscellaneous facilities: Other accessories( buckets, mugs, thermometer and lab accessories etc) Storage racks and furniture Electrical Panels, Cables etc

11 In order to create above infrastructure for the proposed CFC, the tentative investment has been worked out which is as under. * In future depending upon the requirement of the cluster more facility can be added and cost of same has not been included. A. Capital Expenses: Sr. No. Items Amount (Rs. In Lac.) 1. Land Not considered 2. Work shed area for the a) Machineries & equipments b) Office, Laboratory and Store 3. Dyeing Machines Accessories for dyeing Laboratory set up Utilities Miscellaneous 6.00 Total Capital expenses B. Operational expenses(hand holding) for Rs.5.5 lac/month Project cost(a+b) C. Contingency (10% of Project cost) Assumptions: Total Project Cost a) This report has been prepared on the basis of minimum production level and the process required from initial stage to finished product. b) The land area (shed area and uncovered area) requirement is assumed on the basis of minimum area required by each

12 machine, passage for the free-flow of material, office area, Store area, water softening plant, boiler, CETP and DG area & free moving space etc. c) The cost of the land has not been considered as a part of investment. d) The cost of machines & equipments are based upon the tentative estimation, which may change as per the prevailing rates at the time of supply/delivery. 7. Conclusion: As per the study carried out by NITRA, it is found that once the CFC is set up in Lucknow, the business of Chikankari craft may increase. It has been observed that although the present strength of cluster is very small. So initially the proposed CFC may not be fully utilized or underutilized However, it is expected that if the CFC is established more numbers of tiny units will be attracted and will migrate to this cluster in setting up their units in this cluster and get the benefits of the proposed facilities. So keeping all the above points in the mind, it can be concluded that the proposed intervention is necessary. Therefore, NITRA is of the opinion that HMCM should move ahead with the proposal for setting up of the CFC to improve their present working style of the craftsmen by facilitating them with the state art of modern technology and improved infrastructure. HMCM may proceed to get the Detailed Project Report (DPR) prepared and seek the approval from Govt. of India for the implementation of the project.