Designing Handicrafts using Information Communication Technology

Transcription

1 Designing Handicrafts using Information Communication Technology Dr. A. Chatterjee 1, A.Tiwari 2, Mohan Misra 3, Prof.S.G.Dhande 4 1 Principal Research Engineer, Dept. of Mech. Engineering, IIT Kanpur 2 Ph. D. Scholar, UP Technical Univ., Lucknow., India 3 Ph. D. Scholar, UP Technical; Univ, India 4 Prof., Mechanical Eng. And Comp. Sc., IIT Kanpur, India achat@iitk.ac.in 1, amod@iitk.ac.in 2, emkay@iitk.ac.in 3, sgd@iitk.ac.in 4 Abstract In Engineering Education, we teach and learn to be technically oriented. It means that one should try to figure out how much Engineering is involved in designing, prototyping, manufacturing etc. in a product or process. Innovativeness or being innovative is one of the major characteristics is always expected from an engineer. This trait is very useful everywhere in human life and especially very much needed trait for engineers. In Indian Institute of Technology, Kanpur, India; we are undertaking a research program mainly based on the aspect of automation in the areas of Handicrafts. Since long, Indian handicrafts are very popular in international market. The technology is used in theses areas is almost non-existent. Therefore, our research team is working to develop certain tools to influx technology in producing handicraft items. There are varieties of products in handicraft sector and some of them like Chikan craft from Lucknow, Brassware from Moradabad, handmade carpets from Mirzapur, are very common in international market. Our team is trying to devise a methodology through Information Communication Technology (ICT) and using software like AutoCAD to help the designers to change, modify, and extend the design by the click of a mouse. This work is being done in the area of Chikan design. Till day, some tools exist but users are not computer literate so the benefit of automation is lost in the process. Our research being aware of it and envisages a learning program also in the line with tool development. Keywords: Auto Cad, Automation, Chican, Development, Information Communication Technology (ICT), Handicrafts, Research Introduction Art and culture form an integral part of cultural India. It brings out the true essence of the country. Owing to its vast culture, India produces the most amazing art and craft one can ever imagine. Indian art and craft is famous worldwide.therefore scientist and engineers from all parts of country are trying hard to innovate new applications useful in this sector. Despite the fact that the Indian handicraft industry is doing well (at least on paper), craftsmen on the other hand, who are the facilitators of this sector, are slowly moving out of the sector in search for more profitable and viable options. In the absence of the basic amenities including health coverage, skill development schemes and even shelter, craftsmen instead of passing on the art to the next generation are actually discouraging them to take up their forefathers trade. These artisans are from the lowest income strata of rural India. It is believed that worldwide developments have taken place in graphics capabilities of computers tremendously during the last decades. Therefore handicrafts sector, which is growing leaps and bound in India, can be empowered with the new tool and technology. Courtesy: Indian Journal of Export, Vol 12

2 Major Destinations for Indian Handicrafts (% share in ) Switzerland 1% U.S.A. 31% U.K. 11% Others 22% Saudi Arabia 2% Netherlands 3% Japan 4% Italy 4% Germany 11% France 5% Australia 2% Canada 4% Handicraft is a labour intensive industry with high potential of employment for poorer section of the society in rural areas. It is economically important because the low capital investment, high value addition, negotiable import content and high potential for export earnings. India is one of the important suppliers of handicrafts to the world market. Although export of handicrafts appears to be sizable, India s share in world imports is very small. Despite the existence of production base and a large number of craftsmen, India has not been able to encash existing opportunities. Handicraft is a sector that is still explored from the point of view of hidden potential areas. Going back into the reason for small share of Indian handicrafts in the world market, the main parameter which comes out is Search & Exploration of Hidden Crafts of India the field which has not been ever touched by Indian handicraft industry [1]. Indian handicrafts, typically considered a cottage industry has shown an increase of Rs crore from Rs to Rs. 17, crore, an increase of 19.01% in rupees term. In dollar terms, the exports shown the increase of $ millions from $ millions to $ , an increased of 16.11% over the similar period in touching $ 3.81 billion. Figure 1: Attire with Chikan Is Digital Empowerment necessary? One of the major issues that is affecting the industry is Skill Development. In this sector, people are working for ages is following the same trend whatever their forefathers had taught them. There is no new innovative design, no new product development and no new skill is being practiced. The new generation is loosing interest and going to other profession for a living. the handicraft industry. As a result, this industry is dying. Since August 2008, a dedicated team of researchers has been assigned the task of exploring ground reality in handicraft sector so that definite efforts can be made to empower them for improving their economic conditions as well as enhancement of Export in this sector. During the course of our study on Handicraft sector we have decided to keep our focus on Chikan handicrafts in first leg and therefore conducted a field trip to locations like Rawatpur village and Rasoolabad in Unnao district and of course to Lucknow. The main objective of this field visit was to communicate to the real craftsmen for getting the authentic first hand information we also talked to merchandisers to know the inside out on Chikan handicraft. Our findings in this regard, may be summarized as follows: - There is a definite gap between merchandisers and real artisans.

3 - Major portion of monetary benefits is being enjoyed by the middle men. - Activities of completing Chikan attire like finalizing of designs, wooden block printing and chikan stitching are done in scattered locations. The economic vitality of a society over a period depends on the new products and processes introduced in that society. Some products and services survive, some products and services flourish and some products and services die out over a period of time. While all these events are taking place, people become entrepreneurs, start manufacturing and marketing, employ fellow citizens and generate wealth. In short, the economic life changes as newer products come into the market and the old ones die out. This churning goes on at a rapid pace in the urban society [2].A quick look around will prove that some products that we see today did not exist ten years back. Some products like the manual typewriter are gone from the scene with the result that a part of the economy associated with that product is also not active any more. Now, if one looks at the Indian rural society, it becomes clear that it remains away from new products and services. In some cases, the new product may also energize the economy of the rural society. However, by and large, the economic activity centre around the traditional base of agriculture and rural Government-run rural services handicrafts being another vital component. In short, the basic driver of economic momentum in terms of new products and services is singularly absent in Indian rural society. Products, which have become successful in the urban market, get pushed into the rural society. However, all such products have been developed keeping in mind a different type of need. In short, the situation in- Figure 2 : Various Metal Handicrafts from Moradabad In terms of economic vitality vis-à-vis product innovation is not encouraging for the traditional handicrafts. Lack of visual tools is a major handicap with designers. Most of the designs are described with some samples. The data is not in a form, which can be transmitted or communicated between different groups. The designers are dealing with graphic information. However, they are not able to use a graphic language nor are they able to use any of the graphics capabilities available today on a computer. Several sophisticated design and graphics packages are available in the market. However, they are beyond the reach of handicraft designers in terms of price as well as knowledge. In short, it is necessary to develop a library of software that is available in public domain and that can be used by an artisan for expanding the design envelope in an application area of handicraft. This paper also proposes editing software where several motifs can be made using various primitives. Designing using graphic designer (a tool): The culture of design in India is deeply rooted in a sense of tradition. All designs whether of carpets or of sarees or of shoes are based on traditional motifs and patterns. Lack of innovation and experimentation produces repetitive designs. Another reason for keeping the same patterns is related to the tooling required for production of designs. For example, in case of CHIKAN embroidery, a stamp-block is required to print a design. These blocks are not made quickly and are not made available for any design. With this constraint, the designer works around only those options for which the stamp-blocks are available. It is the same case in jewellery. The overall culture of keeping same traditional design is a strong factor for loosing markets. In case of handicrafts, the artisan should be able to undertake

4 bold experiments in design. For this purpose, it is necessary to provide tools and processes, which provide the necessary freedom to a designer. Design automation has made rapid advances in the past two decades. The techniques of wire frame, surface and solid modelling provide a powerful modelling tool for an aircraft or a vehicle designer. The intent of most of these computer aided design tools has been on modelling and automation of the design process. Figure 3: Semi finished cloth in Chican The issue in case of handicraft design is quite different. Automation is certainly not the goal. The priority is for providing tools of synthesis to designers. Using these tools, one should be able to explore new designs. The second area of concern is the field of design for manufacturability. It is necessary for a designer to see that all the information required for realizing a design is generated quickly. In case of a handloom weaver, it is necessary to develop a pattern of holes, which can be used to make a card that can be put on the loom. In the absence of any intelligent help, a weaver relies on his or her knowledge base and makes several iterations before a final pattern of holes is approved. Similar situations arise in many other applications. It is necessary to provide software tools to handicraft designers in an affordable manner. Figure 4: Artisans from Villages Figure 5: Finished Chican

5 Methodology The present work is related to the tool development for handicrafts products for several cottage industries where special emphasis is given on brassware products from Moradabad. The methodology of the work is divided into following tasks: -De lopment of a software program to make newer design either from primitives also from an old design. It also may work as an editor.ve The purpose to innovate a tool to designers who will be able to design new design using this tool. As a result not only designer can improve their economic condition but the whole society will have a cascading effect from this change. 1) Add CAD generated Pattern/ Motif Designs The Chikan Designer will provide an option to add AUTO CAD generated patterns (or Motifs) to its own Library. The user will have an option to save it as a basic pattern (Primitive) or a Motif, directly into the Database. Once it s added, all users can view and use those Motifs or Patterns for creating various Chikan designs. 2) Create Motifs/Patterns Some Basic tools will also be provided in the Chikan Designer software, to create Patterns or Motifs. 3) Image Editor Chikan Designer will also provide various options of image editing like, Cut, Copy, Move, Paste, Undo, Delete, Rotate, Scaling etc. 4) Final Preview The Software will also provide a feature to merge Chikan designs with Kurtas, Saris etc so that the user can have a basic idea regarding the final appearance of the garment. 5) Database Storage The software would store all the Patterns, Motifs and other Designs into the Database. This proposed software would be an ideal tool for trust building between merchandiser and the chikan artisans, which, at present, is missing and perhaps this is the major reason of middlemen earn major chunk. Chikan Designer would be a tool to translate these chikan artisans s dream to reality. Now at the present time (while writing this paper) the database is under construction and it is being populated with several designs (see figure 6b). The idea is to make this database as a central database and use it in line with open software source/model approach. Figure 6. a) and b) Screenshots from Designer Tools Conclusion Product innovation and improvements in design as well as manufacturing technologies occur in the formal sector of economy on a routine basis. In the case of the informal sector, the concept of product innovation remains subdued. With an introduction of modern technologies of design and product innovation, the change is necessary in informal sector so that the economy can be uplifted. In particular, the handicraft sector in India presents an appropriate case for introducing the tools of design and product development. It is felt that several segments of the handicraft sector will

6 be benefited if such tools and products are available at an appropriate price. In order to overcome the cultural inertia of change, it is necessary to provide an appropriate environment of training and education. Since the economic size of this sector is large, any effort in the direction of technology improvement will yield significant dividends. References 01. J.Encarnacao, E.G. Schlechtendahl, Computer Aided Design : Fundamentals and System Architecture, Springer Varlag, Berlin J Kanchana, Status of Handicrafts in India, published in annual handicraft exhibition and contest, New Delhi Tamas Varaday, Ralph R. Martin and Jordan Coxt, Reverse Engineering of Geometric Models An Introduction, Computer-Aided Design, Vol 29, No4, pp , ATOS Users Manual 05. Kai, C, C and Fai, L, K, Rapid Prototyping, Vol 1, pp 17-19, 65-67,