The Coloration of Wool and other Keratin Fibres

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1 The Coloration of Wool and other Keratin Fibres Editors David M. Lewis John A. Rippon

3 The Coloration of Wool and other Keratin Fibres

4 Current and future titles in the Society of Dyers and Colourists John Wiley Series Published The Coloration of Wool and other Keratin Fibres David M. Lewis and John A. Rippon Forthcoming Natural Dyeing for Textiles: A Guide Book for Professionals Debanjali Banerjee Colour for the Design Industry Vien Cheung

5 The Coloration of Wool and other Keratin Fibres Edited by DAVID M. LEWIS Department of Colour Science, University of Leeds, UK and JOHN A. RIPPON CSIRO Materials Science and Engineering, Australia Published in association with the Society of Dyers and Colourists Series Editor: Andrew Filarowski

6 This edition first published 2013 by John Wiley & Sons in association with the Society of Dyers and Colourists C 2013 SDC (Society of Dyers and Colourists) Perkin House, 82 Grattan Road, Bradford, West Yorkshire, BD1 2LU, United Kingdom Registered office John Wiley & Sons Ltd, The Atrium, Southern Gate, Chichester, West Sussex, PO19 8SQ, United Kingdom For details of our global editorial offices, for customer services and for information about how to apply for permission to reuse the copyright material in this book please see our website at The right of the author to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, except as permitted by the UK Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988, without the prior permission of the publisher. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. Designations used by companies to distinguish their products are often claimed as trademarks. All brand names and product names used in this book are trade names, service marks, trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective owners. The publisher is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. Limit of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: While the publisher and author have used their best efforts in preparing this book, they make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this book and specifically disclaim any implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. It is sold on the understanding that the publisher is not engaged in rendering professional services and neither the publisher nor the author shall be liable for damages arising herefrom. If professional advice or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional should be sought. The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable for every situation. In view of ongoing research, equipment modifications, changes in governmental regulations, and the constant flow of information relating to the use of experimental reagents, equipment, and devices, the reader is urged to review and evaluate the information provided in the package insert or instructions for each chemical, piece of equipment, reagent, or device for, among other things, any changes in the instructions or indication of usage and for added warnings and precautions. The fact that an organization or Website is referred to in this work as a citation and/or a potential source of further information does not mean that the author or the publisher endorses the information the organization or Website may provide or recommendations it may make. Further, readers should be aware that Internet Websites listed in this work may have changed or disappeared between when this work was written and when it is read. No warranty may be created or extended by any promotional statements for this work. Neither the publisher nor the author shall be liable for any damages arising herefrom. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data The coloration of wool and other keratin fibres. / edited by David M. Lewis and John A. Rippon. pages cm Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN (cloth) 1. Dyes and dyeing Wool. I. Lewis, D. M. (David M.), editor of compilation. II. Rippon, John A., editor of compilation. III. Title. TP899.W dc A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN: Set in 10/12pt Times by Aptara Inc., New Delhi, India

7 Contents List of Contributors Society of Dyers and Colourists Preface xiii xv xvii 1 The Structure of Wool 1 John A. Rippon 1.1 Introduction Composition of Wool Chemical Structure of Wool General Chemical Structure of Proteins Amino Acid Composition of Wool Arrangement of Amino Acids in Wool The Structure of Wool Proteins Wool Lipids Morphological Structure of Wool The Cuticle and the Fibre Surface The Cortex The Cell Membrane Complex Chemical Reactivity of Wool Damage in Wool Dyeing Nonkeratinous Proteins and Damage in Dyeing Influence of Dyebath ph on Fibre Damage Conclusion 35 References 35 2 The Chemical and Physical Basis for Wool Dyeing 43 John A. Rippon 2.1 Introduction The Chemical Basis for Wool Dyeing The Wool Water System The Amphoteric Nature of Wool and Dyeing Behaviour Classical Theories of Wool Dyeing Modern Theories of Wool Dyeing Standard Affinity and Heat of Dyeing 50

8 vi Contents 2.4 Classification of Dyes Used for Wool Dye Aggregation The Physical Basis for Wool Dyeing: The Role of Fibre Structure Diffusion of Dyes Pathways of Dye Diffusion into Wool Effect of Chemical Modifications on Dyeing Chlorination Plasma Treatment Differential Dyeing Conclusion 68 References 69 3 The Role of Auxiliaries in the Dyeing of Wool and other Keratin Fibres 75 Arthur C. Welham 3.1 Introduction Surface Activity of Wool-Dyeing Auxiliaries Anionic Auxiliaries Cationic Auxiliaries Ethoxylated Nonionic and Cationic Auxiliaries Amphoteric Auxiliaries Other Auxiliaries Brightening Agents Levelling Agents Material Faults Dyeing and Processing Faults Testing the Action of Levelling Agents Product Selection Coverage of Skittery or Tippy-Dyeing Wool Restraining and Reserving Agents in Wool Blend Dyeing Antiprecipitants Wool Protective Agents Low-Temperature Dyeing Correction of Faulty Dyeings Aftertreatments to Improve Wet Fastness Effluent Control in Chrome Dyeing Antifrosting Agents Antisetting Agents Sequestering Agents Conclusions 96 References 97 4 Ancillary Processes in Wool Dyeing 99 David M. Lewis 4.1 Introduction Wool Scouring 99

9 Contents vii 4.3 Wool Carbonising Shrink-Resist Treatments Top Shrink-Resist Processes Garment Shrink-Resist Treatments Fabric Shrink-Resist Treatments Miscellaneous Developments Colour-Fastness Requirements for Machine-Washable Wool Insect-Resist Treatments Insect Pests Insect-Resist Agents Application Methods for IR Agents Flame-Retardant Treatments Antisetting Agents The Role of Oxidants in Preventing Setting in Dyeing The Role of Electrophilic Reagents in Controlling Setting in Dyeing Fibre Arylating Agents (FAA) 120 References Bleaching and Whitening of Wool: Photostability of Whites 131 Keith R. Millington 5.1 Introduction Wool Colour Measuring Wool Colour Improving Wool Colour by Selection Improving Colour in the Scour Nonscourable Yellowing Wool Colour Compared with Cotton and Synthetics Wool Bleaching Oxidative Bleaching Reductive Bleaching Double (or Full) Bleaching Bleaching of Pigmented Wools Bleaching in the Dyebath Biobleaching of Wool Using Enzymes Activated Peroxide Bleaching Catalytic Peroxide Bleaching Novel Bleaching Methods for Wool Fluorescent Whitening of Wool Photostability of Wool Mechanism of Wool Photoyellowing Mechanism of Photoyellowing of Fluorescent Whitened Wool Methods for Improving Photostability 151 References 153

10 viii Contents 6 Wool-dyeing Machinery 157 Jamie A. Hawkes and Paul Hamilton 6.1 Introduction Top Dyeing Longclose (UK) Large Bump Tops Obem Big Form Vigoreux Printing Loose Stock Dyeing Continuous Dyeing of Loose Stock Hank-Dyeing Yarn Carpet Yarn Hand-Knitting and Machine-Knitting Yarn Robotic Handling Space Dyeing of Yarn Yarn Package Dyeing Package Preparation Machinery Piece Dyeing Jet and Overflow Dyeing Beam Dyeing Garment Dyeing Carpet Piece Dyeing Drying Mechanical Moisture Removal Thermal Moisture Removal Dyehouse Automation Dyehouse Control Systems Factory Management Systems Process Control Effluent Control Systems Colour Measurement Laboratory Dyeing Tops, Loose Stock, Hanks and Package Yarn Piece Dyeing Garment Dyeing Laboratory Machine Control Systems 202 References Dyeing Wool with Acid and Mordant Dyes 205 Peter A. Duffield 7.1 Introduction Acid Dyes Acid Dye Subclassification Optimised Dye Ranges Natural Dyes 213

11 Contents ix 7.4 Mordant Dyes Chrome Dyeing Processes Theoretical Aspects Low-Chrome Dyeing Specific Dyeing Methods 226 References Dyeing Wool with Metal-complex Dyes 229 Stephen M. Burkinshaw 8.1 Introduction Dye Structure Electronic Structure Colour and Light Fastness Stereochemistry and Isomerism : 1 Metal-Complex Dyes : 2 Metal-Complex Dyes Dye Application : 1 Metal-Complex Dyes : 2 Metal-Complex Dyes Environmental Aspects 248 References Dyeing Wool with Reactive Dyes 251 David M. Lewis 9.1 Introduction Commercial Reactive Dyes for Wool The Chemistry of Reactive Dyes Nucleophilic Substitution Reactions Michael Addition Reaction Specific Reactive Dyes for Wool Application Procedures Auxiliary Agents Dyeing Processes Used with Reactive Dyes Effect of Reactive Dyes on Fibre Properties Novel Reactive Dye Systems for Wool Maleinimides Isocyanate and Isothiocyanate Bisulphite Adducts Carboxymethyl Carbodithioate Dyes Trifunctional Reactive Dyes Prepared from Bis-(chloroethyl-sulphonylethyl)amine [P-3] Reaction with a DCT Dye Crosslinking Agents to Covalently Fix Acid Dyes to Wool Identification of the Reaction Sites in the Fibre Conclusions 287 References 287

12 x Contents 10 Dyeing Wool Blends 291 David M. Lewis 10.1 Introduction Wool/Cotton Dyeing of Cotton Exhaustion Dyeing of Wool/Cotton Blends Pad Dyeing of Wool/Cotton Blends Wool Damage during Dyeing Amination of Cellulosic Fibres Wool/Silk Dyeing of Silk Dyeing of Wool/Silk Blends Wool/Nylon Dyeing of Nylon Dyeing of Wool/Nylon Blends Wool/Polyester Dyeing of Polyester Dyeing of Wool/Polyester Blends Wool/Acrylic Dyeing of Acrylic Fibres Dyeing of Wool/Acrylic Blends Conclusions 351 References The Coloration of Human Hair 357 Robert M. Christie and Olivier J.X. Morel 11.1 Introduction Structure and Morphology of Human Hair Natural Colour of Hair Physical Chemistry of Hair Dyeing Toxicology of Hair Dyes Oxidative Hair Coloration Alternative Approaches to Permanent Hair Dyeing Nonoxidative Hair Dyeing Conclusion 386 References Wool Printing 393 Peter J. Broadbent and Muriel L.A. Rigout 12.1 Introduction Preparation for Printing Oxidative Processes Polymer Treatments Plasma Treatments Other Methods of Preparation for Printing 398

13 Contents xi 12.3 Direct Printing Machinery Dye Selection and Print Recipes Steaming Washing and Aftertreatment Discharge Printing Ground Shades Discharge Agents Illuminating Dyes Printing and Fixation Resist Printing Chemical Resist Processes Mechanical/Chemical Resist Processes Reactive-Under-Reactive Resist Digital Printing Machinery Ink Formulation Fabric Pretreatment Fixation Wash-Off Wool Blends Wool/Polyester Wool/Cotton Wool/Acrylic Cold Print Batch Transfer Printing Wet or Migration Transfer Printing Sublimation Transfer Printing Benzoylated Wool Novel Effects Burn-Out (devorée) Printing Sculptured Effects 425 References 426 Index 431

15 List of Contributors Peter J. Broadbent, Colour Chemistry Consultant, UK Stephen M. Burkinshaw, School of Design, University of Leeds, UK Robert M. Christie, School of Textiles & Design, Heriot-Watt University, UK Peter A. Duffield, Retired; Global Textile Associates Ltd, UK Paul Hamilton, Bulmer & Lumb Group Limited, UK Jamie A. Hawkes, Perachem Limited, UK David M. Lewis, Department of Colour Science, University of Leeds, UK Keith R. Millington, CSIRO Materials Science and Engineering, Geelong, Victoria, 3216, Australia Co-operative Research Centre for Sheep Industry Innovation, University of New England, NSW, 2800, Australia Olivier J.X. Morel, Xennia Technology Ltd., UK Muriel L.A. Rigout, School of Materials, University of Manchester, UK John A. Rippon, CSIRO Materials Science and Engineering, Geelong, Victoria, 3216, Australia Arthur C. Welham, The Dyehouse Doctor Ltd, UK

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