(a little) HISTORY OF 50 YEARS OF ISO MEETINGS EVOLUTION OF ISO 105

Transcription

1 (a little) HISTORY OF 50 YEARS OF ISO MEETINGS EVOLUTION OF ISO 105 Prof. Dr. Eng. Josep Valldeperas Prof. Dr. Eng. Fernando Carrillo Prof. Dr. Eng. Manuel J. Lis INTEXTER-UPC

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3 INTRODUCTION Man s desire for colour is an inborn trait. Also man s desire is to prevent it from fading. From prehistoric times, man uses natural colours. - Evidences in caves such Altamira in Spain and others But: How many others doesn t survived? - Survival only the ones sheltered from the elements? Desire for lasting colour, entails the need to mesure how long it lasts. The mesure must be more quickly than though the life of colour. This has led to a search for accelerated tests.

4 AIM OF THIS PRESENTATION It is not to set for a history of colour. It is only to present the development of modern standardized tests. - How had been the problems to solve? - Which are the reasons behind and validity? Those who forget history are doomed to repeat it.

5 COLOUR FASTNESS (1) It is only fair to give due merit to textile industry: About 300 years ago, a light exposure test in France (wool dyed) Over the last century textile industry has create a body of doctrine : Other industrial sectors (plastic, paint, automotive...) have taken advantage of, and still do today. Accelerated tests for colour fastness parallel to new colorants: Initially implementation and use fairly localized. Germany (IG Farben), Switzerland (Basel), UK (Manchester).

6 COLOUR FASTNESS (2) Starting second half of twentieth century, European Colour Fastness Establishment, ECE, was created. - First Code de solidité des teintures et Impressions sur textiles. - Summary of tests used in European textile chemical industries during first half of the twentieth century.

7 COLOUR FASTNESS (3) Some highlights in the development of Standards in the 20 th century: The Blue Scale introduced by Germany Colour Fastness Committee (DEK) in 1913 is the most widely used scale for testing and assessing light fastness properties. At the same time the DEK introduced colour fastness standards in Germany (DIN). About a decade later the Society of Dyers and Colourists (SDC) in UK, and American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) in USA, followed. Approximately between 1950 and 1970 colour fastness standards were fixed by various national standards organizations and by ISO, in particular ISO 105 series, used world wide, and adopted without any technical changes in the nineties by the European Standards Work EN of the CEN, and is actually binding for all the countries members.

8 ISO STANDARD 105 The creation of International Standards Organization, ISO, in the mid-twentieth century: Final push for scientific level and technical and economical importance. Recognition and acknowledgement for colour fastness tests in the world. Initially colour fastness concepts included in the ISO R 105 Summary of proprietary, private and individual methods. ISO/TC38/SC1 (Textile Colour Fastness) Hard work during more than 60 years. Plenary meetings approximately every three years. New agents and tests gradually incorporated into ISO R 105.

9 ISO/TC38/SC1 PLENARY MEETINGS Places and dates of Plenary and Working Group Meetings YEAR PLACE (COUNTRY - CITY) 1951 Bournemouth United Kingdom (UK) 1952 New York United States of America (USA) 1954 Scarborough UK 1956 New York USA 1958 Lucerne Switzerland 1961 Cheltenham UK 1964 Chapel Hill USA 1968 Wurzburg Germany 1971 Newton USA 1974 París France 1978 Ottawa Canadá 1981 Copenhagen Denmark 1984 Manchester UK 1987 Bad Soden am Taunus Germany 1989 Williamsburg USA 1991 París France 1996 Abtwill (St Gallen) Switzerland 1998 Charleston USA 2001 Göthenburg Sweden 2004 Terrassa Spain 2007 Las Vegas USA 2010 París France 22 Meetings, Spain from 1968 (14), and my self from 1974 (12)

10 FROM ISO R105 TO ISO 105 First ISO R105 Series I (one document). ISO R105 followed up to Series VIII. The latest series already as International Standard ISO 105.

11 FROM SERIES ISO R105 TO PARTS ISO 105 Each series (from I to VIII) contained test for a variety agents. Finally, in seventies, with close 50 different tests. No logical order (each series with a variety agents). At 1978 Meeting in Ottawa (Canada) new structure of ISO parts published, designated by letters. Parts A, B, C, D, E, F, G, J, N, P, S, X and Z. Each part containing two digits section. This means each part can expand to 99 tests. And finally for each part the letter designates a type of agent. (really more easy to remember and find) The year of last revision and publication was included in each section.

12 PARTS OF ISO 105 Meaning of the letters in the parts of ISO 105. Part Title or agents Sections A General Principles 11 B Colour Fastness to Light and Weathering 10 C Colour Fastness to Washing and Laundering 10 D Colour Fastness to Dry cleaning 2 E Colour Fastness to Aqueous agents 16 F Standard Adjacent Fabrics 9 G Colour Fastness to Atmospheric Contaminants 4 J Measurement of colour and colour differences 5 N Colour Fastness to Bleaching agencies 5 P Colour Fastness to Heat treatments 2 S Colour Fastness to Vulcanization 3 X Miscellaneous tests 18 Z Colorant characteristics 11 TOTAL 106 Actually more than 100 standard methods in ISO Each section actually is published as a separate document. - No chance of confusion possible.

13 INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 105 A General principles and testing conditions are described. Grey scales for change in colour and staining New Instrumental assessment of colour fastness British people seems perceive colour different to continental European people Finally German (DEK) proposal accepted as a compromise Actually Digital Imaging measurements for colour fastness.

14 INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 105 B Light and weathering are the main agents of part B. Key agents to measure fastness of textile colour from series I. Evolution in parallel with the development of methods to produce white light. Nineteenth and early twentieth centuries natural light predominates. No possible to include the concept of accelerated methods. Practically only used by colorant manufacturers. Not interesting for dyers and end users of the coloured textiles. Long time needed to find out the final quality of garment.

15 ISO 105 B GENERAL TRENDS From early twentieth century Carbon Arc lamps in USA and lowpressure Inert Gas Discharge lamps in Europe. - Poor control of spectra and energy. - Natural light also great variability. Exposure time is not a valid reference. - Need for a measuring sensor (or photometer). First and still used is visual scales of coloured textile substrates. - Development in Germany (DEK) and USA (AATCC). In Europe eight different colorants (ISO Scale 1 to 8). USA only two colorants were used (ISO L Scale, L2 to L9).

16 ISO 105 B GENERAL CONCEPTS Main agents light and weathering (spectral distribution). Photometering the irradiation of the samples. Control and regulation of the humidity. Standardised raining. High temperatures for automotive interior furnishing. Wet light fastness properties. New conditions for sports wear wet light fastness. Quality control of the blue wool photometers. Ageing extension of light action. Detection of photochromism (reversible change in colour).

17 ISO 105 B DEVICES Position in the device. Distribution of the temperature and humidity is not absolutely homogeneous in the exposure equipment. So different degrees of fading can occur. Actual equipment no critical differences in the light radiation. Best uniformity if entire rack rotates around the xenon lamp. Proposal for flat devices discussed in July 2010, Paris meeting

18 INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 105 C Having in mind the variability in Washing habits world wide: ISO 105 Part C. Standardizes some medium possibilities Before 1978 with Marseilles soap (From 40-95ºC) Ottawa washing. After more than 10 years of discussions and round robin tests: New detergents ECE77 and WOB. After 1990 s New new system with Bleaching activators. TAED and SNOBS. Under analysis and discussion the concept single - multiple test. Interference of Care label Oxidative bleach Washing. China interest for wet scrubbing of pigment printed textiles.

19 INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 105 D to Z E03: Swimming pool water: 20, 50 and 100 mg/l. a diplomatical and salomonical agreement F series: The born of Multifibre adjacent fabrics DW and TV (Copenhagen 1981). G series: The search for lost control specimen. WG9: The in-out carpets and floor coverings colour fastness (last proposal from IRAN in the 2010 Paris meeting).

20 EUROPEAN COLOURFASTNESS ESTABLISHMENT ECE ISO/TC38/SC1 It is due merit do not forget the work of ECE. Spain (CES) and my self involved in ECE from 1973 ECE Meetings Year (Month) Chairman Terrassa (Spain) 1973 (Oct) 10 Plenary Dr. G. Stamm Mulhouse (France) 1974 (Dec) Extraordinary Dr. G. Stamm Rhoendorf bei Bonn (Germany) 1976 (Oct) 11 Plenary Dr. G. Stamm Bradford (UK) 1980 (Oct) 12 Plenary Dr. G. Stamm St.Gallen (Switzerland) 1984 (March) 13 Plenary Dr. W. Krucker Mulhouse (France) 1987 (March) 14 Plenary Dr. W. Krucker Barcelona (Spain) 1989 (Juny) 15 Plenary Dr. W. Krucker St.Gallen (Switzerland) 1992 (Feb) 16 Plenary Dr. W. Krucker Berlin (Germany) 1995 (May) 17 Plenary Dr. Krucker/ Dr. Schiller Bradford (UK) 1998 (April) 18 Plenary Dr. W. Schiller Half of the meetings of ECE.

21 ISO 105 and ECE The previous meetings of ECE benefits ISO/TC38/SC1 meetings. Had been so similar activity CEN/TC 248 and ECE? Fortunately, the last 40 years, the same people in different place, but discussing the same matters. In 16 Plenary meeting, St Gallen, 1992, the future of ECE was analysed. France, Germany, Spain, Switzerland and UK agreed to continue ECE. Vienna agreement simplifies the colour fastness progress? National European Colourfastness committees in a good health. Like DEK, a young organization of 100 years!!!

22 ISO 105 FINAL COMMENTS In my exposition I only tried to show and explain the instruments world have in hand to measure and control the Colour Fastness, and a little history of its evolution. ISO 105 is a living document, where the world specialists put his knowledge, to improve the lasting colour, as an inborn trait man s desire. THANK YOU VERY MUCH

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