4. Bevel the LE face of HS1-HS11 to match the horizontal stab leading edge sweep angle.
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1 BEFORE YOU BUILD 1. Unroll each sheet of the plans. Roll them inside out so that they will lie flat on the building surface. 2. Assemble the tools that you will need to build each section so that they are in easy reach. 3. If you are installing retractable landing gear it is best to unravel the air lines and hang them so to work out the kinks and bends before installation. 4. Decide on whether the horizontal and vertical tail sections are to be fixed or detachable. Detachable tail sections are easier to transport but are not as strong a fixed tail sections. 5. The full scale B-17 had fabric covered control surfaces that have been recreated in the plan. If this is not desired the control surfaces can be balsa sheeted. This decision should be made before you start to build. BUILDING THE TAIL SURFACES Horizontal Stabilizer 1. Place the stab plan over your building surface. If desired cover the plan with wax paper for protection. This is not necessary as the ribs sit on build tabs. 2. Cut a piece of 1/2 x1-1/4 balsa stick 22 long for the LE. 3. Cut a piece of 3/8 x 1-1/2 balsa stick 22 long for the TE. 4. Bevel the LE face of HS1-HS11 to match the horizontal stab leading edge sweep angle. 5. Position the ribs over the plan and square using rib jigs as pictured above. 6. Glue the LE to each rib making sure that there is a 1/16 above and below HS1 to account for the sheeting thickness. 7. Glue the TE to each rib 8. Glue two pieces of scrap balsa hinge blocks. Glue the hinge block to the TE where shown on the plan for hinge reinforcement. 9. Drill a 1/2 hole through each of the 4 1 x1 x1 hardwood blocks. 10. Slide each 1/2 aluminum tube through the horizontal stab tube holes then through the 1 x1 x1 blocks. Use 30- minute epoxy to glue the 1 x1 x1 block to ribs HS5 and HS Drill a 5/16 diameter hole through the 1 x1 x1 block and aluminum tube. 12. Secure a blind nut to the top of the 1 x1 x1 blocks. 13. Use a razor plane followed by a bar TE even with the top and bottom angle of the ribs. 14. Use 2 pieces of 1/16 x4 x48 sheeting to make the top and bottom horizontal stab skin. Cut each sheet in half and follow Tech Tip on how to make balsa skins. TECH TIP HOW TO MAKE SKINS WITH BALSA SHEETING A. Use a metal straightedge ruler to true the joining edges of the balsa sheets. B. Tightly tape one side of the pieces together with masking tape. C. Turn the sheets over and apply glue to the joining edges. A slow drying like aliphatic resin is recommended because this provides longer working times for
2 alignment, can be easily wiped clean of any excess glue, and is sands well. CA can also be used if preferred. D. Cover the building surface with wax paper and lay the glued skin on it. Use a business card or something similar to wipe off the excess glue while pressing the sheets flat on the building surface. Making sure that the edges are even and not raised as illustrated above. E. Lay a weight on top of the skin to make sure that the skin lays flat while drying. F. When the glue has dried, sand the joints lightly to remove any imperfections. If done correctly very little sanding is necessary. 15. Use the horizontal stab plan as a template to trim the horizontal stab skins. When trimming the TE of the stab skin making sure to leave 1/4 overhang. 16. Glue the horizontal stab skin to the top of the horizontal stab using aliphatic resin or thin CA. Use T-pins to hold the skin to the stab where needed. 17. When the glue dries flip the horizontal stab over and remove the building tabs. 18. Glue the other horizontal stab skin to the bottom of the horizontal stab using aliphatic resin or thin CA. Use T-pins to hold the skin to the horizontal stab where needed. 19. Use a razor plane followed by a bar LE even with the top and bottom horizontal stab skins. 20. Sand the ends of the horizontal stab with a bar sander even with ribs HS1 and HS Use the plan as a template to cut the elevator tip from the 1 x3-1/2 x7 balsa block. Then glue to the horizontal stab. 22. Then use a sanding block to shape and round the LE and Elevator Tip. Use the cross sections on the plans for reference. 23. Repeat steps 1 through 22 to build the other horizontal stab. Elevator NOTE: If sheeting the elevator with balsa then trim the top and bottom edge of each rib the thickness of the sheeting. The elevator then only requires every other rib. 1. Slide ribs E1-E20 on to the Elevator Spine. Then glue in place with medium CA. 2. Cut a piece of 1 x3/4 balsa stick for the top and bottom LE Use a razor plane followed by a bar LE even with the top and bottom angle of the ribs. Then use a sanding block to shape and round the LE. Use the cross sections on the plans for reference. 4. Cover the elevator with fabric. 4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 to build the other elevator. Vertical Stabilizer 1. Place the rudder plan over your building surface. If desired cover the plan with wax paper for protection. This is not necessary as the ribs sit on build tabs. 2. Use the plan as a template to cut the vertical stab LE from the 1 x1-1/2 x24 balsa stick. 3. Bevel the LE face of VS2-VS11 to match the vertical stab LE curvature. 4. Position the ribs over the plan and square using rib jigs. 5. Glue the LE to each rib making sure that there is a 1/16 above and below VS1 to account for the sheeting thickness. 6. Use the plan as a template again this time to cut the vertical stab TE from the 2 x3 x15 balsa block. Then glue to the vertical stab. Then glue the TE to each rib. 7. Glue two pieces of scrap for balsa hinge blocks. Glue the hinge block to the
3 TE where shown on the plan for hinge reinforcement. 8. Insert Rudder Attachment Spar 1 through 3 in to slots in the vertical stab ribs as shown in plans. 9. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue in place. 10. Use a razor plane followed by a bar TE even with the top and bottom angle of the ribs. 11. Use 4 pieces of 1/16 x4 x48 sheeting to make the top and bottom vertical stab skin. Cut each sheet in half and follow Tech Tip on how to make balsa skins. 12. Use the vertical stab plan as a template to trim the vertical stab skins. When trimming the TE of the vertical stab skin make sure to leave 1/4 overhang. 13. Glue the vertical stab skin to the top of the vertical stab using aliphatic resin or thin CA. Use T-pins to hold the skin to the stab where needed. 14. When the glue dries flip the vertical stab over and remove the building tabs. 15. Glue the other vertical stab skin to the bottom of the vertical stab using aliphatic resin or thin CA. Use T-pins to hold the skin to the stab where needed. 16. Use a razor plane followed by a bar LE even with the top and bottom vertical stab skins. 17. Sand the ends of the vertical stab with a bar sander even with ribs VS1 and VS Use the plan as a template to cut the rudder tip from the 1 x1-1/2 x7-1/2 balsa block. Then glue to the vertical stab. 19. Then use a sanding block to shape and round the LE and Rudder Tip. Use the cross sections on the plans for reference. Rudder NOTE: If sheeting the rudder with balsa then trim the top and bottom edge of each rib the thickness of the sheeting. 1. Slide ribs R1-R11 on to the Rudder Spine. Then glue in place with medium CA. 2. Use the remainder of the 2 x3 x15 balsa block cut earlier for the vertical stab TE for the rudder LE. Cut the LE in half and glue to the top and bottom of the Rudder Spine. 3. Use a razor plane followed by a bar LE even with the top and bottom angle of the ribs. Then use a sanding block to shape and round the LE. Use the cross sections on the plans for reference. 4. Cover the rudder with fabric. BUILDING THE FUSELAGE 1. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue F8Doubler to F8A. When dry add 1/4-20 blind nuts. Apply thick CA or 5-minute epoxy around the edge of blind nuts to secure in place. 2. Repeat step 1 for F12Doubler and F12C. 3. Make two dihedral brace assemblies by using 30-minute epoxy to glue DB8A and DB8B together now called DB8AB.
4 NOTE: Make sure the orientation of the two dihedral braces is as pictured. 4. Repeat step 3 for DB12AB assembly. 5. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue both top and bottom F8B s together. 7. Remove bolts from DB8AB s and wrap wax paper to cover top of DB8AB s. Apply 30-minute epoxy to the top and bottom of F8B s then add F8C. Bolt the assembly together again and let dry. NOTE: Make sure there is proper alignment between F8A and F8C and that DB8AB s are not glued to F8B or F8C. When dry remove bolts and DB8AB s and ensure that DB8AB s slide freely in F8 assembly pocket. 8. Repeat steps 5 through 7 for F12A, F12B, and F12C. 10. Use thick CA to glue BBD assembly to F8 assembly. Again making sure that the two are perpendicular to each other. 11. Slide F9, F10, and F11 over BBD assembly. 12. Use thick CA to glue F12 assembly to BBD assembly also making sure that the two are perpendicular. 6. Sandwich wax paper between DB8AB s and F8A then bolt DB8AB s to F8A. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue top and bottom F8B assemblies to F8A. NOTE: Make sure not to glue DB8AB s to F8A or F8B. 9. Glue bomb bay divider BBD1 and BBD2 making sure that the two are perpendicular to each other. 13. Use thick CA to glue both FW1 s to F8 through F12. Make sure FW1 s are perpendicular to both F8 and F12.
5 14. Cut 1/8 from bottom center of F9, F10, and F11 for clearance of center spine. 15. Glue center spine CS3 and CS4 together. Use a piece of scrap to sandwich between the glue joint for reinforcement. Leave 1/8 clearance from bottom edge for balsa sheeting. 16. Glue CS3 and CS4 assembly to bomb bay section F8 through F Glue CF2 and both CW1 s to F Glue F1 and F2 to bottom center spine. Then glue BF1 to F1 and F2 25. Glue CS1 to F1 through F Glue two stringers to either side of CS Cut 3 pieces of 1/8 x4 balas sheeting approximately 1-1/4 wide to make the vertical wall between BF1 and NF Glue F4 assembly to fuselage. 22. Glue CTF1 to F4 and F Glue F3 to bottom center spine and then to NF1 to F3 and F Glue TT4 to F8 then glue F7 to TT4, bottom center spine, and FW1 s. 19. Glue F6 to bottom center spine, TT Wet one piece of 1/8 x4 x1-1/4 balsa and wrap around CT1 to form curved shape.
6 35. Glue BTF1 to F14, F15 and F Slide F17, F18, F19 and F20 through CS2 then glue to both the top and bottom center spine. NOTE: THE FUSELAGE WILL APPEAR FRAGILE AND VERY FLEXABLE AT THIS POINT. DO NOT WORRY AS THE APPLICATION OF THE STRINGERS WILL STIFFEN AND STRENGTHEN THE FUSELAGE. 29. Glue two of the 1/8 x4 x1-1/4 balsa strips to either side of the straight sections. Glue the curved piece to the round sections. 30. Glue F13 to FW1 s and bottom center spine. 37. Cut two pieces of 1/4 x3/8 basswood stick 2-1/2 long and one piece 2-1/4 long for tail wheel blocks. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the two 2-1/2 tail wheel blocks to F Use 30-minute epoxy to glue F21Doubler to F21 for tail wheel mount. 31. Glue RCF1 to F14 making sure that the two are perpendicular to each other. 32. Glue RCF1 and F14 assembly to F13 and bottom center spine. 33. Glue CS2 to the top of F9 through F Glue F15 and F16 to top and bottom center spine. 38. Cut two pieces of 3/8 x1/2 basswood stick 2-1/4 long for tail wheel blocks. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue tail wheel blocks to F Mount tail wheel per the manufactures installation instructions. 40. Remove tail wheel assembly and glue F21 to the top and bottom center spine.
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