Graceful Gathers Bag Instructions 5x7 Hoop Size

Transcription

1 Graceful Gathers Bag Instructions 5x7 Hoop Size Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 1

2 A note from the designer When I set out to design the Graceful Gathers bag, my goal was to create a beautiful in the hoop purse with dimension and feminine flare. I wanted to push the boundaries of in the hoop embroidery beyond the flat, square results produced by most in the hoop designs. I ve always loved the look of ruffled fabric, and I can spend hours simply ruffling yards of fabric with the ruffler foot on my sewing machine! As I was doing just that one day, with a pretty floral print fabric, I ruffled two opposite edges, creating a gathered fabric panel. I loved the dimension the gathers created and realized that was just what my new pattern needed, and the idea for the Graceful Gathers bag was set in motion It was important to me to design this bag with a zipper as I wanted the option to make the bag into a wristlet - and wristlets must have zippers! In keeping with the feminine look, I didn t want the zipper to show on the front of the bag, so I added a band that would function as a cover to conceal the zipper. Before you begin stitching your Graceful Gathers bag, I d like to set your expectations. First, this bag is not for beginners! You should have experience with in the hoop designs before attempting this design. Second, plan about an hour, start to finish, to complete your first Graceful Gathers bag. Third, remember that the effort you put into this bag will pay off when you finish your gorgeous purse! And once you ve stitched one, you ll get the hang of it, so the next one you make will be that much easier! On that note, I recommend stitching a tester using scrap fabric. It s very important that you read through the instructions before you begin. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 2

3 Cut all fabrics to the exact size listed, and be sure to use both sticky stabilizers and water soluble topping, as listed under supplies. They are both imperative for this project. And please don t resize the design as it will not work as designed. You have the option of using a ruffle foot on your fabric, or ruffling the fabric in the hoop. If you own a ruffle foot, I would highly recommend ruffling ahead of time. You ll save yourself some time, and you ll get more consistent gathers. (Besides, it s so much fun to do!) The bottom panel of your Graceful Gathers bag is gathered which is basically a piece of fabric that has been ruffled on two opposite sides. The middle band of fabric can be ruffled as shown in the purse on the left (page 1), or you can have a straight, tailored band, as shown in the purse on the right. This piece is referred to as Fabric E. Choose which type you d like before cutting your fabric. I hope you enjoy making your Graceful Gathers Bag as much as I ve enjoyed designing it! - Lisa Archer Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 3

4 Supplies: 5x7 or larger hoop 9" or larger *Polyester* zipper - Do not use zippers with metal teeth! 1/3 yard main fabric for gathered front, ruffle, back, strap 1/4 yard coordinating fabric for monogrammed piece, linings 1/4 yard cotton batting Set of Pickle Pie Designs ½ Clasps & D-Rings, or two ½ clasps and two ½ D-rings Sticky Tearaway Stabilizer (it s imperative that you use sticky stabilizer as it is the key to working with the gathered fabric in this project!) Water Soluble Topping Fusible Interfacing for strap Ruffle Foot, optional Let s Prepare Our Fabrics! Cut fabric/materials according to the charts/diagrams below Fabric diagrams are based on 42 wide fabric All sizes are listed width x length Label each piece by indicated letter, as they will be used in alphabetical order as we stitch. Batting: Cut to size: Label Step Placement of fabric/notes 6.5 x 3.5 A 6 Lower front batting 8 x 1.5 G 23 Upper front batting 8 x 6 J 31 Back batting Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 4

5 Main fabric: Cut to size: Label Step Placement of fabric/notes 22 x 5 B 7 Lower gathered front 8 x 2 D 13 Band below zipper 22 x 4 (for ruffled band) OR 8 x 4 (for flat band) E 19 Ruffled band below monogram OR Flat band below monogram 8 x 6 K 33 Back lining For a shoulder strap: 42 x 2 PLUS 12 x 2 --OR-- For a short purse strap: 32 x 2 --OR-- For a wristlet strap: 14 x 2 Strap For a shoulder strap, we ll piece together the two cut pieces. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 5

6 Coordinating fabric: Cut to size: Label Step Placement of fabric/notes 8 x 4.5 C 12 Lower front lining 8 x 3 F 23 Upper front this piece will be monogrammed 8 x 3 H 26 Upper front lining 8 x 6 I 32 Back of bag Now that our materials are cut, we ll finish the prep Fold fabric pieces C, F, and H down 1, wrong sides together, and press to crease. Fold fabric pieces D and E in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Cut interfacing to 1" wide, and to the length of your strap, cutting multiple pieces, if required, to make the length. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 6

7 Let s Make the Strap! For a shoulder strap, you ll need to piece together the two strap pieces. If you re making a short strap, skip to the next page. Lay one strap piece on a table, face up. Place the second strap piece, face down, over the first piece as shown, leaving a ¼ overlap on each edge. Pin. Mark a line on the fabric, from one corner to the other. On your sewing machine, stitch along the marked line. Remove pin and trim a ¼ seam allowance. o Press the seam open. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 7

8 Now that we have our strap fabric pieced Center the fusible interfacing, shiny side down, along the wrong side of the strap fabric. Press with a hot iron to fuse. Fold both long edges of the fabric to the center and press. Fold strip in half, lengthwise, pressing as you go. If you are making a wristlet, cut a 2 length off and set the rest of the strap aside you will not topstitch the longer wristlet strap during the next step. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 8

9 Topstitch along the length of the strap, (the long shoulder strap, or the 2 wristlet strap). Repeat on the other side. The strap does not need finished ends at this point. For a purse, cut two 2 lengths off of the strap for your strap tabs. Set all pieces aside. To continue with a wristlet strap: Slide the long strap through the bale of your clasp. Unfold the fabric on each end, and pin the ends, right sides together. On your sewing machine, stitch the ends together with a ¼ seam allowance. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 9

10 Finger press the seam open. Refold the long edges of the strap into the center. Pin. Topstitch along the circular strap, moving the clasp out of the way as you go. Pull the clasp to the edge and stitch near the bale to enclose the clasp within the strap. Set aside. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 10

11 Let s Ruffle and Gather! (If you are NOT using a ruffle foot, skip to Step 1.) Set your ruffle foot to the tightest or smallest setting and attach it to your sewing machine. Leaving a ½ seam allowance, ruffle along one 22 edge of Fabric B, leaving long tails of thread at the beginning and end to allow you to adjust the gathers later. Repeat along the opposite edge of the fabric. Your finished piece should be about 9 wide. You can pull the gathers out along the thread to lengthen the piece, if necessary. Set aside. If you chose to have Fabric E as a straight fabric band, skip to Step 1. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 11

12 If you chose to ruffle Fabric E, take the folded Fabric E. Leaving a ½ seam allowance, ruffle the 22 raw edges, ruffling both layers at the same time. Your finished piece should be about 9 wide. You can pull the ruffles out along the thread to lengthen the piece, if necessary. Set aside. Let s Stitch In the Hoop of your Embroidery Machine! 1) Hoop your stabilizer. 2) Sew Stitch Sequence 1 to create placement lines for the zipper. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 12

13 3) Center the zipper inside the placement lines. Make sure each end of the zipper extends at least 1 past the ends of the placement lines, with the zipper pull on the left side of the project. Press the zipper down to the sticky stabilizer to hold it in place. 4) Sew Stitch Sequence 2 to tack down the zipper and to create a placement box for the lower batting. 5) Remove the hoop from your machine. 6) Take Batting A and center it inside the stitched placement box below the zipper. It should fit perfectly inside the box. Press batting down to the sticky stabilizer to hold the batting in place. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 13

14 7) If you gathered Fabric B, place it over the project, with the top edge extending 1 above the top of the zipper, pressing down the top edge to the sticky stabilizer. Press the bottom edge of Fabric B to the sticky stabilizer below the batting. Press the sides of Fabric B down to the sticky stabilizer to hold it in place. You can adjust the gathers to your liking as you stick the fabric down. 8) If you haven t gathered the fabric ahead of time, you will gather it by hand. Center Fabric B over the project, with the top wide edge of the fabric extending 1 above the top of the zipper. Press just a finger width of the top edge of fabric to the sticky stabilizer to hold it in place as you work on the gathers. Repeat below the batting, pressing a finger width of the fabric down to the sticky stabilizer. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 14

15 9) Now start gathering the fabric toward the center of the piece by pinching and pulling small sections of fabric toward the center, pressing down to the sticky stabilizer as you go, to hold the gathers in place. Continue gathering Fabric B in this manner, making sure the sides of the fabric extend past the sides of the batting. When you like the look of the gathers, press the sides of Fabric B down to the sticky stabilizer to hold it in place. 9) Cover Fabric B with a piece of water soluble topping, pulling the topping taut to compress the gathers of Fabric B. Press the water soluble topping to the sticky stabilizer and reinforce the edges with tape, if needed, to hold it taut. Using water soluble topping will allow the presser foot to glide over the gathered fabric, rather than catching on it. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 15

16 10) If possible, slow down your machine speed, then sew Stitch Sequence 3 to stitch down Fabric B. 11) Remove water soluble topping. Trim the excess fabric from above the top stitch line, being careful not to trim the batting underneath. 12) Turn your hoop over to the back. Turn Fabric C wrong side down. Locate the third stitch line down from the top of the project. With the fold of Fabric C toward the top of the project, place the fold slightly above the third stitch line. Tape Fabric C in place along the raw edges. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 16

17 13) Turn your hoop over to the front. Take Fabric D with the fold toward the top of the project, and align the raw edges with the stitch line at the top of gathered Fabric A. Tape in place along the fold and the edges to hold in place. 14) Replace the hoop on your machine, being careful not to allow the fabric on the back of the hoop to shift. 15) Sew Stitch Sequence 4 to tack down Fabric D. 16) Remove the tape, then fold the top of Fabric D down over gathered Fabric B. Finger press the seam well. Tape in place along the raw edges and at the very edge of the bottom fold to hold in place (if the next stitch set stitches through the tape, you can carefully pull the tape from the stitches afterwards.) Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 17

18 17) Sew Stitch Sequence 5 to sew the band of fabric in place and to tack down Fabric C. Remove tape. 18) Sew Stitch Sequence 6 to create a placement line for Fabric E. 19) Take Fabric E and, with the fold toward the bottom of the project, place the raw edges directly below the stitched placement line. If you chose a flat band for Fabric E, press the fabric to the sticky stabilizer to secure, then skip to step 21. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 18

19 If you ruffled your fabric ahead of time, press Fabric E to the sticky stabilizer, being sure the ends of Fabric E extend beyond the side placement lines. Press the ends down to the sticky stabilizer or use tape to secure. Skip to step 20. If you haven t ruffled your fabric, press a finger width of the raw edge of Fabric E to the sticky stabilizer and gather the fabric toward the center, pressing the fabric to the sticky stabilizer to hold it in place. Continue gathering and sticking until you have ruffled the entire piece. You can use tape to hold small sections of the ruffles down as you go. Be sure the ends of Fabric E extend beyond the side placement lines then press down to the sticky stabilizer or use tape to secure the ends. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 19

20 20) Cover the ruffled Fabric E with water soluble topping, pulling the water soluble topping taut, then tape securely. 21) Sew Stitch Sequence 7 to tack down Fabric E. 22) Remove tape and water soluble topping, if used. Trim the excess fabric above the stitch line, cutting as close as you can to the stitch line. 23) Take Fabric F. Open the fold and place the fabric over the project, face down, with the 1 folded edge toward the top of the project. Align that top edge of Fabric with the placement line above the zipper. Press down to the sticky stabilizer to secure. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 20

21 24) Take Batting G and place one long edge into the fold of Fabric F, butting it right up against the fold line. Press to the sticky stabilizer to secure. Fold the remainder of Fabric F up over the batting, toward the top of the project. Press to the sticky stabilizer to secure. 25) Sew Stitch Sequence 8 to tack down on three sides. The stitch line will not extend all the way down the left side of Fabric F, as we need to be able to open the zipper in a subsequent step. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 21

22 26) Sew Stitch Sequence 9 to create your monogram. 27) Remove the hoop from your machine and turn it over to the back. Turn Fabric H wrong side down. Locate the fourth stitch line from the top of the project. With the fold of Fabric H toward the bottom of the project, place the fold slightly below the fourth stitch line. Tape fabric in place along the three raw edges. 28) Replace the hoop on your machine and sew Stitch Sequence 10 to tack down Fabric H. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 22

23 29) Sew Stitch Sequence 11 to create placement lines for the strap tabs. If you are making a purse, you ll use only the top placement lines during the next step. If you are making a wristlet, you ll use only the side placement line during the next step. 30) Take the 2 strap tab(s) you made earlier. Slide one strap tab inside a D-ring, and fold the strap tab in half. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 23

24 31) Place the strap tab/d-rings over the first placement line, with the raw edges of the strap tab extending outside the stitch line by ¼, and the D-ring toward the center of the project. Tape in place outside the stitch line. You can place a piece of tape over the D-ring to keep it in place. Make sure the D-ring is well inside the stitch lines - you do not want your machine to stitch over it! Repeat with the remaining strap tab, if you re making a purse with a shoulder strap. For a purse, you ll place two strap tabs on the top placement lines. For a wristlet, you ll place one strap tab on the side placement line. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 24

25 32) VERY IMPORTANT - If you forget this step, your zipper will not work in your finished bag! Gently unzip the zipper about 2/3 of the way across the bag. 33) Center Fabric I, face down, over the project. Center Batting J over Fabric I. Tape in place along the edges. 34) Sew Stitch Sequence 12 to create a line of stitches near the bottom of the batting. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 25

26 35) Remove the hoop from your machine and turn it over to the back. Take Fabric K and place it, face down, over the project. Tape in place along all four edges. 36) Replace the hoop on your machine. Sew Stitch Sequence 13 to complete the stitching. 37) Remove the hoop from your machine and remove the project from your hoop. 38) Remove the stabilizer from around the project. 39) Trim a 1/4 border around the edges and clip the corners. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 26

27 40) Turn your bag inside out through the hole at the bottom of the bag and poke out the corners. Close the opening in the lining using a whip stitch or use fusible seam tape. 41) Remove the stabilizer from around the zipper. You may find tweezers help with this task. 42) Turn the bag inside out through the zipper and poke out the corners well. Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 27

28 43) For a purse, take the strap piece and insert 1 of the strap through the bale of your clasp. Fold the raw edge in twice and pin. Stitch, as indicated by the green arrow. Repeat process on the other end of the strap. Attach the clasps of the strap to the D-rings on the purse, and you re done! 44) For a wristlet, attach the clasp on your strap to the D-ring on the wristlet to finish. We hope you enjoyed this great In the Hoop embroidery design from Pickle Pie Designs! Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 28

29 Please note that this design is copyrighted and may not be resold, shared or altered in any way. You may sell finished items made with this design but the design itself may not be sold. Find us on Facebook and Pinterest! Copyright Pickle Pie Designs 2014 Page 29