Optional (1) 6 1/2 square of novelty, floral, etc. for center of block if NOT doing applique or embroidery

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1 If you haven t done so already, see Preliminary Cutting Instructions on page 3 of the Introduction for best use of your fabric. Block 2 You will need: White (1) 7 square for appliqued or embroidered center (omit if not doing applique or embroidery) (4) 3 1/2 squares (1) 4 5/8 square (8) 2 1/4 squares Gray (12) 2 squares Red (1) 4 5/8 square Green #1 (8) 2 1/4 squares Blue (2)- 4 5/8 squares White & Red Print (8) 2 x 3 1/2 rectangles Optional (1) 6 1/2 square of novelty, floral, etc. for center of block if NOT doing applique or embroidery Making the block: Embroider or applique the 7 White square (patterns attached.) Trim the squares to 6 1/2 square. Draw a line diagonally on the WRONG side of each Gray 2 square. Place and pin four of the Gray squares, RIGHT sides together, in the corners of your White 6 1/2 center square (or novelty or floral fabric, if that is what you are using). Sew on the drawn line. Trim away the excess Gray and White fabric, leaving a 1/4 seam allowance. 1

2 Press so you have a Gray triangle in each corner, pressing seam allowances toward Gray. (This is called a Snowball Block. I like using this technique for dressing up embroidered or appliqued squares ) Repeat this technique with the Gray squares and the White 3 1/2 squares- note that you will only use 2 Gray squares per White square. Arrange them so that they are opposite of each other Now, we are going to make more of those Quarter Square Triangle Squares (or, Hourglass squares). Remember how for Block #1, we cut up triangles and then sewed them into squares? For this block, we will use a different technique which is really fun. Grab those Blue, White, and Red 4 5/8 squares (DON T cut them into triangles this time!) 2

3 Place a White square RIGHT sides together with a Blue square, and place a Red square RIGHT sides together with a Blue square as well. You now have 2 square pairs (one that is White + Blue, and one that is Red + Blue.) Use a ruler and a fine point permanent marker (I use a Pigma micron pen) to draw a line diagonally from corner to corner, on the WRONG side of the fabric of each square pair. Then draw a line a scant 1/4 on either side of this line. (Scant means not quite 1/4, just a tiny bit less.) I like to use a see-through ruler for this step. (You can also just draw the line down the center, and use your 1/4 foot to sew 1/4 away from that center line but I like the accuracy I get by drawing in all of the lines.) Pin the pairs together, and sew on those side lines (not the center line), then cut on the center line: Press the seams toward the Blue. Now, you have 4 squares (HST s, or Half Square Triangle units), which look like this: Now we are going to turn these HST s into QST s (Quarter Square Triangle Squares)!!! Place a White/Blue square RIGHT sides together with a Red/Blue square. The Blue triangles should be opposite of each other- in other words, a Blue triangle should face the White triangle, and the other Blue triangle should face the Red triangle. Make sure that those diagonal seams are lined up (I always pin my squares together, to be sure they don t shift.) Repeat so you have 2 sets. 3

4 Once again, we are going to draw a diagonal line on the WRONG side of the squares. However, the drawn line is going to be PERPENDICULAR to the seam. Sew and cut like you did for the HST s. Press the seams open. You now have 4 QST s or Hourglass squares which look like this: Trim the square to 3 1/2 (remember to center the block when you trim you want that center point exactly in the middle of the square.) It s time to make our Flying Geese units! This is my favorite way of making Geese Units. I find that if I cut my fabric exactly to size before I sew, the units always end up a little too small and sort of wonky. By cutting the squares a little larger than you need, you can trim the unit at the end and get a perfect Flying Geese unit. On each of your 2 1/4 Green squares, draw a line across diagonally on the WRONG side. Place FOUR of the White & Red Print rectangles on the table, right side up. Place one of the Green squares right side down (so that your fabrics are right sides together) on top of each Print rectangle as shown. The Green square will be larger than the rectangle- line up the fabrics at the lower corner (bottom and side edges aligned) with the excess Green fabric at the top. Sew on line: 4

5 Press out the square and trim away the excess fabric, leaving a 1/4 seam allowance (just like you did for the Snowball block): Draw a line on the WRONG side of your 2 1/4 White squares. Place a White square on the other end of the white rectangle and repeat: There will be excess Green and White fabric- trim it away so that you have a 1/4 seam allowance, and so that the completed unit measures 2 x 3 1/2 : Now repeat this process with your FOUR remaining Print rectangles- but this time, put the White square on the left, and the Green square on the right: 5

6 So now, you have a total of 8 Flying Geese units: It s time to assemble our block! Sew your QST s (Hourglass squares) and Flying Geese together so they look like this, and press the seams open. NOTE the placement of the Red and Green triangles, and the direction that the Flying Geese units are pointing. The units will be 3 1/2 x 6 1/2. Sew 2 of these units to the sides of your center square, noting the placement of the Red triangles. Press seams away from the center square: 6

7 To the remaining Flying Geese/QST units, sew the 3 1/2 White/Gray squares. Press seams toward the Flying Geese: And now sew these to the center square unit, pressing seams away from the center square: Ta-da! Block 2 is done! 7

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If you haven t done so already, see Preliminary Cutting Instructions on page 4 of the Introduction for best use of your fabric.

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