Instructor: Joan McKenna Blog:

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1 Spring 2017 FULL SEMESTER COURSE 18 Weeks Sewing Fundamentals 1 Sewing Techniques Portfolio Wednesdays: February 1, 2017 June 7, :30 1:30 pm OR Wednesdays: February 1, 2017 June 7, pm Instructor: Joan McKenna mckenna@gothere.com Blog: Location: West City Campus 3249 Fordham Street San Diego, CA Room 209 For the First Day of Class: Print this Syllabus, Class Etiquette, Trouble Shooting your Sewing Machine & Sewing Techniques Portfolio Patterns. Always print EVERYTHING without Scaling or Fit to Page. Take everything with you to class. Always Bring along a USB. You will be glad you did. 1

2 Be prepared to take notes, computer register with your CSIDs Card, & fill out other forms. Hospitality and Consumer Sciences SLOs, Visions, Missions Program Purpose/Vision: The purpose is to provide San Diego Community College Continuing Education with non-credit courses consistent with the current Family and Consumer Sciences Program Plan for Community Colleges. Mission Statement: Students completing courses or programs in San Diego Continuing Education s Hospitality and Consumer Sciences department will gain knowledge and skills in any of the possible subject matter offerings (foods/nutrition; culinary arts/hospitality/fashion productions/fashion merchandising/textiles/interior design/life management/consumer issues and personal development) in order to prepare for vocational careers in the above and to positively affect one s quality of life. The vision is to increase professional development, expand course diversity, enhance CE s image and grow enrollments in HCS. SDCE Institutional Student Learning Outcomes: 1. Social Responsibility SDCE students demonstrate interpersonal skills by learning and working cooperatively in a diverse environment. 2. Effective Communication SDCE students demonstrate effective communication skills. 3. Critical Thinking SDCE students critically process information, make decisions, and solve problems independently or cooperatively. 4. Personal and Professional Development SDCE students pursue short term and life-long learning goals, mastering necessary skills and using resource management and self-advocacy skills to cope with changing situations in their lives. 5. Diversity SDCE students incorporate and use principles of civility and compassion as they develop knowledge and skills: recognizing, respecting and valuing the place and role of all individuals in their community. Fashion Discipline Student Learning Outcome (SLO): Students completing a fashion or fashion production course or program will be able to understand and apply concepts, technologies, related skills and techniques by successfully completing class projects in order to prepare for fashion careers. Course Student Learning Outcome (SLO): Upon course completion, students will be able to demonstrate basic sewn product stitching & construction skills as evidence by the completion of a Sewing Techniques Portfolio. Course Objectives: Students will demonstrate their class acquired learning and competencies through practical applications, plus written and oral communications. At the end of the course, with reasonable attendance, the student should be able to demonstrate the ability to: 1. Define construction terms. 2

3 2. Use basic sewing techniques to produce a sewing techniques portfolio. 3. Select and maintain appropriate small equipment related to construction procedures. 4. Select appropriate construction techniques in relation to cost, quality, fabric, design, and time management. 5. Identify various types of fabric, interfacings and sewing supplies. 6. Coordinate appropriately: fabrics and stitches. 7. Measure accurately a human body or dress form to determine correct pattern size. 8. Layout pattern pieces efficiently on fabric according to the appropriate grain line marked on the pattern. 9. Demonstrate the use and maintenance of sewing machines, sergers, cutting tools, and other equipment and supplies necessary for efficient sewing. 10. Document progress of sewing abilities by the completion of a Sewing Techniques Portfolio. 11. Design and organize an ergonomically correct workspace. 12. Identify and discuss entry level career positions for beginning sewers in the sewn products industry. Method of Instruction: Methods of Instruction may include, but are not limited to: classroom lectures, laboratory classroom discussions, digital and hardcopy handouts, collaborative learning, peer guidance, demonstrations, patternmaking software programs, internet research, You Tube, accounting and document processing programs, books on disk, text books, library building books, recommended readings, audio-visual presentations, field trips, guest speakers, completion of portfolios, student presentations, sewn projects, personalized attention, and other student projects. This course, or sections of this course, may be offered through hybrid distance education. To get Individualized Help: Write your name on the white board in descending order under the word "Help." Student Responsibilities: Students are expected to come to class on time (see me if you can t) and commit to attending class each day. Sign in and out on the Class Attendance Verification Sheet. If you do not sign in, I can NOT give you credit for coming to class. ALL My Syllabi are ALWAYS subject to change. BOOT CAMP - The Sewing Techniques Portfolio! Class 1: Feb 1 First Day of Class. Introductions. Computer Registration. Computer room. Use your CSIDs number. Student Learning Outcome Sheets. Phone number and form. Tools and Equipment supplied by the School. The syllabus. Classroom Etiquette. Handouts and Resources on a USB. Work along with instructor. Keep up with assignments. Homework. All Levels Welcome. Laying out & cutting in room 209. Bring your own sewing machine from home to use or provide TLC for the school s machines. Signing out Sewing Machines. Using EROs. Sewing Fundamentals is taught as 2 classes: Sewing Fundamentals 1: BOOT CAMP The Sewing Techniques Portfolio and Sewing Fundamentals 2: Individualized Apparel Construction. The Text. There is a great Glossary in the text. Lots of lessons, Sew alongs, & Demos. There is usually catch up time at the beginning of class. Receiving help and learning from each other. Always list your topic on the Help board. Buying your project needs: fabric, notions, & lifetime sewing kit. Buying a sewing machine. your absences to me. Cleaning up at end of EACH class. Today's Lessons: 1. The Sewing Techniques Portfolio. This course is tough in the beginning. Do the work involved - ONTIME. It will pay off. How and WHY to start a sewing portfolio. Print: the Syllabus, the Portfolio Patterns, Troubleshooting your Sewing Machine, Classroom Etiquette. Print without scaling or fit to page. 2. Touch Test: Learning to feel fabrics and interfacings. HOW TO Pre-shrink your fabrics and interfacings. Stabilizers do NOT get pre-shrunk. 3. Power Point on Sewing Needs: New Sewer s Supplies 2. 3

4 Upcoming Fandango and Homework. Note: The first 4 weeks of this course are very very hard. You ABSOLUTELY need to keep up with the work and assignments. Understand that you can get hurt sewing. You can get injured if you don t take care of the equipment and yourself. (Commandment #1: Safety First!!) This could cause you to give up the greatest most fulfilling pastime in the world!!!!! FANDANGO: Saturday, Feb 4, Field Trip to Yardage Town, and Central Sewing in El Cajon with Joan McKenna. Remember to bring your supply money and your syllabus. I have asked my other classes to join us. 9:30 AM - Yardage Town Broadway. El Cajon Phone: Do NOT buy Serger Thread here. Buy woven inexpensive Light Denim, Woven Interfacing, some supplies. it is a good idea to buy your pattern: McCall s 6972 Adult Size. 11 AM - Central Sewing East North Second Street. El Cajon Phone: To buy: Corner Template, Simflex, Mechanical Chalk Pencil, Bobbins, Schmetz Needles.? Lunch? MJ s Family Restaurant 576 North 2nd Street. El Cajon, CA (619) El Cajon Bistro. 109 Jamacha Road, El Cajon, CA (619) Homework: 1. Print from the blog. 2. Come to your next class with your 2. interfacings, & fabrics preshrunk. Stabilizers do NOT get pre-shrunk. 3. Use a paper scissors, ¾ inch wide GREEN Invisible tape, a gallon size baggie, and your printed portfolio patterns. (Printed with NO SCALING or Shrink to Fit.) Cut out the pattern pieces and put them in your gallon size baggie. This will keep them clean and flat. Remember to tape both pieces of your collar together. Bring all supplies you will need to class. Week 2: Feb 8 Fabric Prep work is the most important part of sewing: Totally take notes on this lesson if you come unprepared!!!! Truing your fabric on grain, Layout your portfolio patterns on your preshrunk fabric. A. View the power point: Grainlines & Other Prep for Layouts. B. Remember to: 1. Lay everything on grain. 2. Get an okay from the instructor to cut. C. Learn how to cut ergonomically. Production Term of the Day is commandment #12: Respect Thy Grainlines. Remember to cut your interfacing: WOVEN: Back neck facing, Front facing, Collar, V-neck facing, Two 8 ½ x 11 sheets (woven buttonholes and closures). KNIT interfacing for one 9 x 4 inch pattern pieces. Check what is written on your pattern pieces. Homework: What you do not finish in class, you will need to do at home. Come to next class with everything cut out on grain. Remember to bring Scrap Fabric to all classes plus all your cut out fabric pattern pieces and patterns. Individual and Group Help. Week 3: Feb 15 More Prep Work: Demo & Do: Fusing interfacing with a press cloth, Serging, and Marking: Darts: regular 4 & fisheye 2, Dots (inseam pocket, shoulder on sleeve), lines, corners, swirl, wrist ruffle. Commandment #14: Thine Iron is Thy Friend. Learn to give TLC to the school s sergers. Serging to stop raveling: Outside edges of fused facings, all sandwiches. Homework: Finish up what you didn t get to complete in class. Individual and Group Help. Remember to bring Scrap Fabric to all classes plus all your cut out fabric pattern pieces and patterns. Individual and Group Help. 4

5 Week 4: Feb 22 TLC for the school s straight stitch sewing machines Care, maintenance, threading of straight stitch machines. You will need your printout: Trouble Shooting Your Machine. Missing this maintenance class tells the instructor that you will not be using the school s machines. Talk to me. There are many ways to do things. NEVER expect any two sewers to agree on technique. Practice Control Sheets Realize Commandment #14 is correct. Thine Iron is thy friend. Homework: Finish up what you didn t get to complete in class. Week 5: _March 1 Class 5 through Class 18 June 7 - Sew Along Demo & Do: Grading Sheets are at the end of this syllabus. And remember: Write in the Date Completed on your grading sheets for your portfolio. Note: You are required to have 80% of everything that is listed. Extra Credit will be counted as part of your 80%. In this way, you can miss/skip some samples and still achieve your 80%. Keep & count all trials, failures, and successes in your portfolio box!!!!! End of Course: Buttonholes & Portfolio Grading. Sew-Along Demo & Do: Buttonholes. Open Sewing. Turn in your Sewing Techniques Portfolio or Shoe Box & Grading Sheet. PICTURES WILL BE TAKEN. Individual and Group Help. Sewing Portfolio Needs: 7 yards woven solid colored inexpensive Light Denim fabric 45 wide (This includes extra for shrinkage) 1 ½ yard of light fusible (iron-on) woven interfacing Pellon Brand: SF 101 Shape Flex 1 yard fusible white Nylon or Polyester Tricot (Sometimes called French Fuse) Pellon Brand: SK 135 Sheer Knit ½ yard Tear Away Stabilizer (1 package Sulky s Tear-Easy is fine) Do NOT pre-shrink. 1 yard solid colored knit fabric (check clearance bins) NON-Matching GOOD QUALITY polyester-cotton thread**** ****Gϋtermann's, Molnyke, Mettler, Dual Duty NEVER buy cheap thread (I.E. Do NOT buy: Two Spools for a $1 threads.) 1 5 to 7-inch polyester zippers that do not match your poly/cot fabric 1 7 to 9 inch metal zipper for exposed zipper application A single package of each of the following: (You can share each package with a fellow student) ¼-inch wide double folded Bias Tape Maxi Piping ½ inch wide Soft and Easy Seam Binding/Hem Tape (NO iron on!!!!) ¾ inch wide Flexi-Lace Hem Tape (NO iron on!!!!) ½ or 3/4 inch wide Ban (the) Roll elastic 1 package or one 18 inch piece 1/8 or ¼ inch wide elastic or 18 inch piece of the elastic One patch, one any size shank button, one any size sew-through button, One 1inch (Ligne 40; 25 mm) button for Jacket Bodice (See button handout in this syllabus.) One Fancy Box or shoe box Corner Template 1 Gallon size Ziploc baggie Bobbin(s) for the sewing machine you are going to use: One bobbin for Pfaff 2036/C1100Pro, or Bernina GIG USB (Bring to EVERY CLASS!!!) (Instructor will supply the following:) snaps, hooks and eyes, beads, sequins Extra Credit Needs for the Portfolio: 5

6 1 7-9 inch invisible zipper 1 Plastic Generic Universal Invisible Zipper Foot Kit* *If you own your own machine, go to your dealer and purchase the correct invisible zipper foot for your machine. (This is a good purchase. You will use it a lot ) Apparel Construction Project Needs: Spring 2017 Your Commercial Pattern Buy this before seeing the Reading Commercial Pattern Envelopes Power Point. McCall s Adult Size. Basic Sewing Kit Needs: (INVESTMENTS FOR A LIFETIME!!!!) Embroidery scissors 5 inch Ginghers craft scissors (Don t buy this without a 50% off coupon) An unbreakable thread catcher Fabric shears Paper scissors FABRIC tracing wheel and fabric tracing paper Glass headed or quilter s straight pins - Pins should be 1.5 to 1.75 inches long. Regular Pincushion -- No magnetic pincushions in the classroom. Frixion Pen(s) with marker head. Manufactured by Pilot. (Iron heat removes the marks.) Tailor s Chalk (The squares or triangles) Tailor s Chalk Mechanical Pencil Variety of hand sewing needles Darning Needles White basting thread Press Cloth (This should be a single fold diaper or a flour sack dish cloth) Point turner Bee's wax Simflex Thimble High Lighter 6-inch sewing gauge 18-inch grid ruler (2 inches wide) Seam ripper Thimble 3/4-inch wide Scotch Invisible Tape (The packaging is GREEN plaid) Fairly new Tape measure Plastic Tool Chest or Fishing Tackle Box for your supplies Pencils, Sharpie ultra-fine markers Instruction book for your personal sewing machine and/or serger* *ONLY if you plan to bring your own machine to class *YES the school has manuals for all our machines Scrap Fabric (check machine EVERY TIME you begin to sew) Needle Threaders Schmetz or Klassé Needles - size 14/90 universal for straight stitch home sewing machines. "Tooth Brush" Kit for rethreading, cleaning, small repairs. 1 Small regular screw driver and 1 with a Phillips head. Looper threaders if your serger is NOT self-threading 6

7 Text: A Guide to Fashion Sewing 6th edition This edition is over $100. Buy: any Previous Edition. These are fine to use as your text. Author: Connie Amaden-Crawford New York, New York: Fairchild Publications/Bloomsbury Publishing Buy from Amazon or Check other places listed on my blog. Best Website Help for Sewing Techniques (You will need to search for videos Some are excellent) Course Evaluation A student s grade will be based on multiple measures of performance related to the course objectives. The assessment will measure development of independent critical thinking skills and the student s ability to perform sewn product construction skills. Multiple measures may include, but are not limited to the following; written assessments, completion of assigned projects, class participation, group activities, creation of a techniques portfolio, and attendance. Final course evaluation of the student s ability will be based on, but not limited to, the following criteria: 1. Self-evaluation completion of Course Student Learning Outcomes. 2. Working on collaborative/group projects and activities. 3. Demonstrate the selection, use and maintenance of sewing machines, sergers, pressing equipment, cutting, hand-sewing tools, and other appropriate notions. 4. Document progress of skills by the completion of a sewing portfolio. Techniques may include: types of stitching, bodice, skirt, details: functional and decorative, shaping techniques (pressing), hand sewing and closures. 5. Critique of completed sewing techniques portfolio illustrating competency skills learned in the course. Quality measured using basic construction competency standards discussed in class. I am going to take pictures the last day of class 6. Evaluate employment opportunities in the fashion and sewn product industries % mastery of the skills embodied in the class assignments and course objectives. 8. Attendance and punctuality. Student must attend 80% of each class in the course. Missing more of the course hours: will affect learning, grade, and certificate earning ability. (Total: Portfolio Class hours:. 80% = ) Note: Paper Certificates are NOT given for Course Completions. There are Paper Certificates given for Program Completion at Graduation. The Clothing Construction Program consists of 4 courses: Sewing Fundamentals 1 & 2, Sewing Like a Professional and Contemporary Tailoring. Future Classes and Events: March 27-March 31 - Spring Break Saturday, April 29, Sew Pro s Field Trip to the LA garment District and M & L Fabrics. $50. Call Clairmont Sew Pro s for details:

8 Prep Work Instructions Fabric Prep - After you buy your fabric and interfacing, you need to preshrink it. The fabric gets washed and dried. You always pre-wash and dry your fabric the same way you are going to take care of the sewn product that you are going to produce from it. Fusible interfacing (woven or knit) is put in a clean sink filled with warm water for a minute or two, then swished around. Remove and roll up in a towel to take most of the moisture out. Then hang dry. You really can t run this through your washer and dryer, because the glue will melt off. Stabilizers do NOT get pre-shrunk. Cutting Cut out all your patterns on their outside cutting lines and put them in a gallon size plastic baggie. (I like to use freezer baggies because the plastic is a bit thicker.) Cut around the outside of the notches. Notches are the Diamonds on your patterns. Get a fabric cutting demo from the instructor. All of the fabric samples will be cut on the straight lengthwise (warp) grain unless otherwise specified on the pattern. ALWAYS..Cut fabric as directed on the patterns. The straight lengthwise (warp) grainline is parallel with the selvage (manufacturer s finished) edge of the fabric. Information on grainlines is included in your textbook. Check your text for cutting instructions for woven fabric cut on the straight lengthwise (warp) grain, bias grain, and for knit fabrics. Until your text arrives, check Observe the sew along demo. Check your text s glossary for words that are unfamiliar to you. Fusing your cut interfacings to your facings - The textured (bumpy or shiny) side of your woven or knit interfacing is the glue side and it faces the wrong side of your facing. Besides interfacing two 8 ½ x 11 inch pieces of fabric AND 1 knit 9 x 4 piece of fabric (see next paragraph)*, remember to fuse your Interfacing to your neckline facings. (NEVER face the glue side up when ironing. You MAY glue it to the iron and then you will have to clean the iron.) Use a Press Cloth!!!! Be sure to follow the manufacturer s directions for pressing on the fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the FACING if you miss the sew along demo. Never fuse with pins in the fabric. It won t let the interfacing lie correctly. Believe in your fabric. It will talk to you. Read the key terms and concepts in your text. Fuse one cut 8 ½ x 11 inch woven interfacing piece to one cut 8 ½ x 11 inch woven fabric piece. Wrong side of fabric gets the glue side of the interfacing. This becomes your facing. Put another piece of woven fabric on top with the Public Side of fabric facing out. Do this 1 more time for a total of 2 big interfaced sandwiches. Make one more sandwich with 9 x 4 knit fabric and nylon/polyester tricot interfacing. Serge*** together around all 4 edges of each sandwich. Mark one big piece BUTTONHOLES. Mark the other big piece CLOSURES, SEQUINS & BEADS. Mark the knit sandwich KNIT BUTTONHOLES. Take 2 pieces of cut woven 8 1/2 x 11 inch fabric and place the wrong sides together. This means that the Public Side of each piece of fabric is facing out. Serge*** together around all 4 edges. Do this 3 more times using another 6 pieces of 8 1/2 x 11 inch fabric. You will need 4 sandwiches without interfacing. 3 sandwiches will be used for sewing machine practice control and 1 sandwich will be used for sewing on patch pockets. Serge*** all edges of the Sandwiched 8 ½ by 11 Inch (seven) Fabric Pattern Pieces, the (one) knit 9 by 4 inch sandwich, and the (two) back neck curve facings, using a 4 thread "serge" stitch. Safety First: Remember that the serger has a knife that cuts. ***Serge Option: If you just don't want to use a serger, check out what utility overlock and decorative stitches come with straight stitch sewing machines to stop the fabric edges from raveling. You may use these stitches instead of serging your edges. 8

9 Keep additional cut woven 8 1/2 x 11 inch single layer fabric pieces for various other learning experiences. You will need them. Mark your Fabric with all Pattern Markings - You will need to use your fabric tracing wheel and fabric tracing paper to do this. There are several ways to handle notches: Diamonds on your patterns. For now, do NOT cut the notch off or cut into your notches when cutting your pattern pieces out of fabric. Cut around the outside V-shape of the notches. On the wrong side of the fabric: Mark all your darts, control sheet lines and dots. Mark the dot on your sleeve shoulder, inside corner of right angle seam (pattern piece #1 of 2), and inseam pocket piece (pattern piece #1 of 2). Also, use your fabric tracing wheel and fabric tracing paper to mark the guideline for the wrist ruffle. Make sure to watch the instructor demo these techniques. Boot Camp Portfolio Notes on Interfacing: Fuse, Serge & Mark Pattern pieces that need fused interfacing: Remember: Woven Interfacing for Woven Fabrics. Knit Interfacing for Knit Fabrics. Fuse before serging open edges. Encased edges do not need to be serged. 2 Back neck facing Woven Interfacing 4 Front facing Woven Interfacing (2 left and 2 right) 2 Collar Woven Interfacing 2 V-neck facing Woven Interfacing 2 8 ½ x 11 inch woven interfacing pieces for buttonholes and closures (2 Sandwiches with interfacing) 1 9 x 4 inch knit piece for buttonholes (1 Sandwich with interfacing) Pattern pieces that need serging just to stop raveling. (NO encased seams) Bodice front Bodice back Pattern pieces that need tracings: Learn to sew straight lines (for a sandwich) Learn to sew corners (for a sandwich) Learn to sew spirals (for a sandwich) 4 Regular darts 2 Fisheye darts 2 Wrist ruffle Additional Markings using Chalk, Frixion Pens, Wax, etc: 2 Dots on right hand corners Piece one of Dot on inseam pocket - Piece 1 of Dot on shoulder of sleeve All Diamond Notches Sandwiches to make: Remember: All sandwiches need to have serged edges 3-8 ½ x 11 inch for Learn to Sew practice control for straight lines, corners, spirals 1-8 ½ x 11 inch for patch pockets 2 8 ½ x 11 inch interfaced sandwiches for buttonholes and other closures 1-9 x 4 inch interfaced knit sandwich for buttonholes 9

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12 Student Name: Date: Sewing Techniques Portfolio Grading Sheet Presentation Student Date Completed Class 3 1. _Feb 15 1 Fusing interfacing, serging, and marking trial scrap & all sandwiches Class 4 2. _Feb 22 1 Fabric control sheet sandwich with serged*** edges: Straight Stitching 3. 1 Fabric control sheet sandwich with serged*** edges: Corner Stitching 4. 1 Fabric control sheet sandwich with serged*** edges: Curved Stitching 8 pieces of 9 x4 straight grain, bias grain and knit are needed for this class Regular stitch length seams on straight lengthwise (warp) grain 6. 1 Regular stitch length seams on bias grain 7. 1 Regular stitch length seams on knit fabric 8. 1 Basting seam on straight lengthwise (warp) grain 9. 1 Basting seam on bias grain Basting seam on knit fabric mm by 2 mm zig-zag stitch on straight lengthwise (warp) grain mm by 2 mm zig-zag stitch on bias grain mm by 2 mm zig-zag stitch on knit fabric Serging with a straight stitch sewing machine (with stitch finger foot) Straight Grain Serging with a straight stitch sewing machine (with stitch finger foot) Bias Grain Serging with a straight stitch sewing machine (with stitch finger foot) Knit Class Sew up bodice-jacket shoulders and side seams. Press seams open Clean edge seam finish Bound Bias Tape seam finish Zig-zag Bias Tape seam finish Extra Credit: Pinked Extra Credit: Hong Kong seam finish Class Slot seam - on straight lengthwise (warp) grain Classic French seam on straight lengthwise (warp) grain French serged variation seam on straight lengthwise (warp) grain Regular tapered dart Fisheye dart 28. Extra Credit: 1 Curved dart Class Corded seam on straight lengthwise (warp) grain Curved seam Flat-felled seam on straight lengthwise (warp) grain Inset right hand corner seam 8 pieces of 9 x4 straight grain, bias grain and knit are needed for this class. Maybe split between classes. Class thread Serged*** Seam on straight lengthwise (warp) grain thread Serged*** Seam on bias grain thread Serged*** Seam on knit fabric thread Serged*** Seam on straight lengthwise (warp) grain thread Serged*** Seam on bias grain thread Serged*** Seam on knit fabric thread Serged Ladder Stitch Seam on straight lengthwise (warp) grain thread Serged Ladder Stitch Seam on bias grain thread Serged Ladder Stitch Seam on knit fabric Rolled Hem on straight lengthwise (warp) grain Rolled Hem on bias grain 12

13 44. 1 Rolled Hem on knit fabric 45. Extra Credit: 1 Cover Stitch on straight lengthwise (warp) grain 46. Extra Credit: 1 Cover Stitch on bias grain 47. Extra Credit: 1 Cover Stitch on knit fabric 48. Check out Yvonne s Bag of serged goodies 49. Learn how to read a pattern envelope and measure for a fitted garment pattern. See the Power Point: Reading Commercial Pattern Envelopes* *Bring your McCall s 6972 Adult size pattern and tape measure. Class ½ or 3/4-inch BAN ROLL industrial waist casing on a skirt (3-8.5 x!! fabric pieces.) 51. Classic straight stitch rolled hem on one sleeve /8 or ¼-inch elastic used to ruffle a cuff with serged rolled hem Class Crimp/Gather sleeve caps, in the flat 54. Sew up and press open underarm seams of sleeves Eased Sleeve Cap done the home sewing way into bodice Crimped Sleeve Cap into bodice Class Interfaced and faced V- neckline 58. Sew Bodice-jacket Facings (with/without back facing) 59. Collar Operation Class Collar Insertion & Front Facing hem (Check the fit on a half size dress form) Class machine appliqué on your bodice-jacket Couching by machine /2 x 11 inch interfaced sandwich used for various closures, buttons, snaps, sequins, beads, patches, hooks & eyes Class Inseam inset pocket sample Lined patch pocket sample Single Layer shirt patch pocket sample on single layer 8 ½ x 11 inch fabric Class Home straight stitch Machine Blind hem made using skirt Hand sewn Blind hem sample on straight (warp) grain with traditional hem finish Hand sewn Cross stitch - Catch stitch hem sample on straight (warp) grain with seam binding/hem tape Hand Sewn Slip stitch Pick stitch hem sample on bodice-jacket with Flexi-Lace hem tape 71. Extra Credit: 1 Hand sewn Cross stitch Catch stitch hem sample on knit fabric Class Lapped zipper sample using 8 ½ x 11 inch fabric cut in 2 lengthwise Exposed zipper sample using 8 ½ x 11 inch fabric cut in 2 lengthwise 74. Extra Credit: 1 Invisible zipper sample using 8 ½ x 11 inch fabric cut in 2 - lengthwise Class /2 x 11 inch woven interfaced sandwich for buttonhole practice. Bodice-jacket gets perfected buttonhole & button. 76. Extra Credit: 1 9 x 4 inch knit interfaced sandwich for knit buttonhole practice & perfection. Class Catch up time. Portfolios Due: Pictures Taken. There is a possibility of 77 samples including the Extra Credit for your portfolio. You are only expected to have completed 80% for a C grade. (62) You are NOT expected to have all the samples. Do NOT stress over this. This portfolio is only the beginning. You will be adding to it as your sewing knowledge grows. I certify that I have samples. Signature: Date: 13