The Only Recognized Trademarks for Textile Shrinkage Control

Transcription

1 The Only Recognized Trademarks for Textile Shrinkage Control

2 THE SANFORIZED TRADEMARK IS REGISTERED IN OVER 100 COUNTRIES AND KNOWN AT BOTH TRADE AND CONSUMER LEVELS GLOBALLY. Quality assurance for manufacturers, consumers and buyers A dedicated team of technical specialists Established global shrinkage standards WHAT IS "SANFORIZED"? The Sanforized trademark was first registered in the United States of America in Today the trademark is registered in over 100 countries worldwide. Our extensive network of global licensees uses the trademark on both 100% cotton and cotton-blend fabrics which meet special test requirements and conform to a precise standard of shrinkage established by The Sanforized Company. Manufacturers of garments made of these fabrics may label their merchandise Sanforized. Thus the retailer and the ultimate consumer can tell at a glance that the fabric in a garment so labeled will not shrink out of fit. This is uniformly true everywhere in the world, wherever cotton and cotton-blend merchandise is produced and sold, because the same processing, testing and inspection procedures are carried out with each and every licensee. Sanforized technical service representatives perform constant inspection and check-testing at the plants of textile mills licensed to produce "Sanforized" fabrics. This insures that a uniform standard is maintained. The Sanforized trademarks are known at both trade and consumer levels worldwide because of their universal assurance of quality. Textile users manufacturers, retailers, and consumers have confidence in Sanforized. They ask for it. They have been asking for it for more than 70 years. The Sanforized license program is unique and without parallel in the textile and apparel industries. Our leadership and expertise in quality shrinkage control are wellknown in every major textile market of the world. WHAT CAUSES SHRINKAGE? During spinning, weaving, bleaching, dyeing and the various finishing processes, yarns and cloth are under a continuous tension. Yarns and/or fabrics are not fixed materials. They consist of separate, stretchable fibers which submit to the tension. In other words, fabrics do stretch in length and width. The tension within the yarns, which is caused by this stretching, can be eliminated when the friction within the fabric is reduced. This reduction in friction 1

3 occurs during laundering where both water and soap act as a lubricant. The lubricant, along with the mechanical action of the washer, helps the fibers relax and contract to their original length before the elongation takes place. This means that the fabric shrinks and recaptures its original equilibrium. CONTROLLED COMPRESSIVE SHRINKAGE PROCESS The internationally well-known and most important shrinking process today dates back more than 70 years. Though the correct expression for this process is Controlled Compressive Shrinkage, the average person knows it as SANFORIZED. The process is a purely mechanical treatment without any addition of chemicals. The word SANFORIZED is derived from the first name of the inventor of the compressive shrinkage process, Mr. Sanford L. Cluett. The Sanforized Company, a division of Cluett Peabody & Co., Inc., New York, USA, is sole owner of the registered trademarks Sanforized, Sanfor and Sanforizado. The Sanforized label means dimensional stability for garments made up of Sanforized labeled fabrics. The purpose of the process is to shrink fabrics in such a way that textiles made up of these fabrics do not shrink during washing. The amount of potential wash shrinkage must be determined prior to shrinking. A full width sample is wash-tested according to the test method. After the lengthwise and widthwise shrinkage has been determined, the compressive shrinkage machine can be adjusted accordingly. Bierbaum Wohnen The process can be described by the schematic below. Fabric (F) passes through the skyer (S) or other moistening device and is moistened by water and/or steam. This will lubricate the fibers and promote shrinkability within the fabric. Normally, a fabric must be moistened in such a way that every single thread achieves a moisture content of approximately 15%. This allows compression of the fabric with very little resistance. When the fabric passes through the clip expander (C), we obtain the required width. The clip expander also transports the fabric to the most important part of the machine: the rubber belt unit (indicated by arrows in above figure). In the close-up of fig. 1, we see the endless rubber belt (R). By squeezing rubber belt (R) between pressure roll (P) and rubber belt cylinder (RB), we obtain an elastical stretching of the rubber belt surface. The more we squeeze the rubber belt, the more the surface is stretched. This point of squeezing is known as the pressure zone, or the nip point. Fabric (F) is now fed into the pressure zone. When leaving the pressure zone, the rubber belt recovers itself and the surface returns to its original length carrying the fabric with it. The effect of this action is a shorting of the warp yarn which packs the filling yarns closer together. At this actual moment, shrinkage occurs. After compaction within the rubber belt unit, the fabric enters the dryer (D). Here the fibers are locked in their shrunken state by removing the moisture from the fabric. After the compressive shrinkage process is completed, another sample of the fabric is taken. This sample is also wash-tested. The final result of this test must meet the Sanforized Standard in length and width before it may carry the Sanforized label. All Sanforized Licensees are contractually obligated to follow the required test method and meet the standards set forth by The Sanforized Company. 2

4 SHRINKAGE STANDARDS FOR WOVEN AND KNIT FABRICS Standards for Shrinkage of Sanforized Labeled Woven Fabrics Woven fabrics shall not either shrink or gain in excess of 1% in either the warpwise or the weftwise direction when subjected to the wash-test method of the United States Federal specification number CCC-T-191A or ISO 675. Standards for Shrinkage of Sanfor-Knit Labeled Knit Fabrics Knit fabrics shall not either shrink or gain in excess of 5% in either the longitudinal or the cross direction when subjected to the wash-test AATCC or ISO 6330 (60 degree, tumble dry). Printed ISO test methods are under copyright! Please contact your nearest ISO office or contact us and we ll be glad to give you an address where you can obtain a copy. (For Germany: Beuth- Verlag, Berlin Tel: 030/ ) A GUIDE TO SANFORIZED LABELING Who May Use the Sanforized Trademark? Textile mills are licensed to apply the Sanforized trademark to those fabrics which conform to specified test requirements. In addition, the Sanforized trademark may be used by manufacturers to identify garments cut from Sanforized-labeled fabrics, and retailers in their selling and advertising. Use of Sanforized by Textile Mills Textile Mills licensed to use the trademark can identify their Sanforized fabrics with the label Sanforized. The label, which must be applied to the end of each piece of fabric, states that Sanforized is a checked standard of shrinkage. Many mills also stamp Sanforized at intervals on the selvage of the cloth. Use of Sanforized by Manufacturers Manufacturers who make up garments wholly of Sanforized fabric may identify the garments as Sanforized. The right to such identification is conferred by the appearance of the standard label on each roll of fabric the garment is made from. In addition, the invoice for the fabric must clearly say "Sanforized." Use of Sanforized by Retailers Retailers purchasing garments identified as Sanforized may use the trademark in advertisements, on counter cards, in bill-stuffers and all other material employed to promote the sale of the garment. For the retailer's protection, and to avoid illegal use of the mark, the retailer should make sure that each individual garment carries Sanforized identification. It is recommended to specify such identification on the purchase order. The Importance of Sanforized Labeling To consumers all over the world, the word Sanforized, or Sanfor, on a fabric or a garment has strong sales appeal. Experience has taught them that the trademark promises good performance from a shrinkage standpoint. A Sanforized garment can be washed repeatedly without loss of original style or fit. This means longer garment life, greater economy, and more value for the money spent. In view of this, the manufacturer who makes a line of Sanforized garments, but does not identify them as such, is depriving both himself and the retail customer of an extremely powerful visual sales tool one that has become more and more important in this day of less personal selling. There are many different ways in which manufacturers label their garments as Sanforized. Among them are: inclusion of the trademark on the manufacturer's own sew-in neck label or hang-tag; separate hang-tags; gummed tickets; gummed labels, etc. The exact method usually depends on the type of merchandise. 3

5 SANFORIZED TECHNICAL SERVICES One key element of our system is the continuous in-plant technical services provided each Sanforized licensee. This service is important, in part, because of constant change and improvements in finishing of all types of cotton fabrics and blends. Our worldwide staff of technical representatives is, of necessity, specializing in keeping abreast of these changing conditions. This enables them to adapt new finishing formulas, processing techniques, and other means necessary to achieve proper shrinkage control. These technical representatives make regularly scheduled service visits to licensees. Also, they are frequently asked to resolve problems which can and do arise between their regular visits. It s important to note that because of the varying technical nature of shrinkage control, these requests come from licensees of many years experience as well as from new licensees. In addition to the technical services provided each licensee, our technical representatives are frequently called upon to help improve garment manufacturing, fabric handling, and laundering techniques all of which seriously affect shrinkage. The importance and the difficulties of quality shrinkage control must not be underestimated. It cannot be claimed that the Sanforized system is perfect. It can be emphatically stated, however, that the Sanforized program represents by far the best and most consistent shrinkage control available. Thus, it is the best protection against costly shrinkage complaints, resulting in loss of good will and customers. Machine Audits Machine audits are an in-depth examination of the mechanical condition of a machine, the operating procedures of the machine, record keeping for the machine, fabric preparation, fabric testing, spare parts, etc. The highlights of the audit specifically address problems in the following areas: Safety Machine defects which may affect fabric quality Machine defects which may result in down time TECHNICAL SERVICE HIGHLIGHTS Routine Visits A Sanforized representative will make routine visits to each licensee at no additional cost to the licensee. These visits may include fabric testing,training of personnel, fabric finishing trials, and technical advice on a wide variety of subjects related to shrinkage control. Special Visits Our technical service personnel are available to the licensee for a special visit at the request of the licensee. Special visits on short notice or for an extended period of time may result in nominal charges to cover travel expenses. 4

6 POTENTIAL COST SAVINGS FOR LICENSEES Reduced Seconds Improper maintenance or operation of CSRs (Compressive Shrinkage Range machines) can result in second quality fabric due to improper shrinkage (too high or too low), compaction marks, water spots, yellowing, improper skewing, inadequate width control, etc. The Sanforized Company representatives work with the licensees to solve these problems. Less Reruns A rerun is usually a batch of fabric which is first quality, except for the shrinkage. Getting the shrinkage right the first time prevents reruns. For some fabrics, reshrinking the fabric can produce a second, or off-quality, fabric. Common problems due to reprocessing fabric are alteration of the hand, alteration of the appearance, and loss of finished width (too narrow according to the specification). Less Unscheduled Downtime The CSR audit is a very effective means by which a mill can pinpoint mechanical problems and repair them before they result in unscheduled downtime. Areas of high wear and/or failure rates can be devised. High Speed By optimizing the machine parameters under which a particular fabric is processed, the mill can sometimes realize an improvement in the operating speed of the machine. SANFORIZED LICENSEE AGREEMENT SUMMARY Field Non-exclusive use of the Sanfor, Sanforized and Sanfor- Knit trademarks. Non-exclusive use of Licensor s knowledge, information, experience, techniques and advice on the compressive shrinkage process together with the equipment, for use in finishing and shrinking of textile fabrics. Licensee Sanforized Company grants a non-exclusive license to use the techniques for treating textile fabrics under the trademark and to sell such labeled fabrics worldwide. Equipment Sanforized Company personnel inspect licensees machinery and recommend modifications, if required, to qualify equipment to treat fabric in accordance with the established standards of The Sanforized Company. Technical Services Sanforized Company personnel instruct licensee in proper practices of the shrinkage process, operation of equipment, and testing procedures for maintaining the established standard. Reports Licensee will submit royalty reports on a quarterly basis. Compensation A minimum annual fee will be established. For more information please contact the Sanforized representative in your area. Term The initial term of the agreement shall be negotiated with an option for automatic renewal six months prior to expiration. 5

7 SANFORD L. CLUETT, Sanford L. Cluett changed the way America looked. He helped put an end to exposed wrists and ankles, constricted waistlines and busting buttons. The invention that bears his name, "Sanforized" fabric, made it possible to wash clothes over and over again without shrinkage. Born in 1874 in Troy, NY, Cluett was a nephew of the three Cluetts who started the detachable collar and shirt making giant in the city. He did not join in the family business until he was 45 years old. His background was as varied and intriguing as the indefatigable curiosity that led him to become an inventor with 200 patents in his name. "If more people would get curious and open their eyes and ears and minds, they would be much happier and incidentally, more successful," he once said. When he was 10, he surveyed and mapped Raquette Lake in the Adirondack Mountains using a carpenter's level, some metal screw eyes and a music stand. As a teenager, he lived in Florida for a number of years because of ill health. While there, he hunted the swamps for alligators, befriended the Seminoles and learned their language, and became an expert marksman. After dropping aspirations of a career in medicine, he later attended Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute where he pioneered investigations into ballistics. After graduation, he entered the Spanish-American War to work in the engineering corps. He went on to do much of the key engineering design work for the Big Sandy River Dam project in Kentucky, where he reportedly was almost shot by suspicious mountain folk who thought he was a revenuer. At the age of 27, he became chief engineer of an upstate New York harvesting machine company, inventing new and improved designs. Cluett joined his uncles' business in Troy factories were cranking out 3 million detachable collars a week then, shipping them all over the world. But in the 1920 s, people were getting used to wearing soft collars attached to shirts. Collar sales were plummeting. The company tried to get into collar-attached shirts but had to deal with the defect of shrinkage when they were washed. No one would buy pre-washed shirts. Cluett needed to find a way to shrink the shirts before they were washed. Cluett concluded the cause of shrinkage was the stretching of fabric in the manufacturing process. When the fabric was washed, it returned to its normal state. He developed a "compressive shrinkage process" that soon carried the trademark "Sanforized," named for its inventor. Cluett Peabody & Co., Inc. licensed the process and made it available to everybody in the textile industry. Suddenly, people could be sure when they bought a garment that it would fit them for as long as they owned it. Previously, fitting new clothes was mostly guesswork. The only certainty was the garment was going to shrink. The innovation launched Cluett, Peabody & Co., Inc. into its second generation as Arrow collars were replaced by Arrow shirts. Sanford Cluett died in 1968 in Florida. Cluett was famous as a meticulous man who made written records of his every thought. According to one story, after a lunch meeting with businessmen talking about one of his inventions, he returned to retrieve the tablecloth on which he had sketched some ideas. He had the tablecloth notarized and kept it. It was later used as evidence in a patent suit. 6

8 SANFORIZED WORLDWIDE LOCATIONS AND SUPPLIERS North America Ms. Maureen Scanlon GTB Holding Corp. 48 West 38th Street New York, NY U.S.A. Tel: Fax: Latin America Mr. Gabriel Siedemburg The Sanforized Company Casilla de Correo No , Suc 2 Montevideo, Uruguay Tel & Fax: gsiedemburg@hotmail.com Europe, Asia, and Africa Mr. Alwin Schmidt Sanfor Service Mittelgasse Henfenfeld Germany Tel: Fax: sanfor@lau-net.de Supplier of Shrinkage Markers Benchmark Devices Inc Equestrian Trail Marietta, Ga Tel: Fax: bmarkers@bellsouth.net