Fabric Inspection. Jimmy K.C. Lam. The Hong Kong Polytechnic University

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1 Fabric Inspection Jimmy K.C. Lam The Hong Kong Polytechnic University

2 Fabric Inspection Why, when and where Inspection Systems Four-Point System Ten-Point System Inspection Condition Sampling Acceptance Level

3 Fabric Inspection (I) When, why, where Producer likes to know the quality of his products (says quality for 500,000 yds fabric) Buyer wants to assure the product quality he ordered. 10% check will give buyer some ideas of his product quality 25% check maybe necessary for new supplier 3% check maybe enough for a proven record supplier

4 Fabric Inspection (II) Fabric inspection must be selected randomly The fabric sample must be selected from different place, different lot and different time Inspector must use a packing list and select different bales on different place The samples should be selected from early, middle and late production.

5 Inspection Standards Ten Point System Oldest and most used in woven finished fabric Four point System Widely adopted and used in knitted fabric The Graniteville 78 System major and minor types, used in garment pieces

6 Ten Point System

7 Ten Point System The earliest inspection system and is designed to identify defects and to assign each defect a value based on severity of defect Published in 1955 by Textile Distributors Institute and National Federation of Textiles

8 Ten Points System (Woven) Warp Defects inches 10 points 5-10 inches 5 points 1-5 inches 3 points up to 1 inch 1 point Weft Defects Full width 10 points 5 inches to half width 5 points 1-5 inches 3 points up to 1 inch 1 point

9 Ten Point System Standards for examination of finished goods (woven mainly) Penalties to be assigned for imperfection of warp and weft defects Grading is designed to apply to every imperfection according to size, regardless of type. For print cloth, any piece of grey which contains less than 50% more penalty points than yardage may be passed for printed fabric.

10 Ten Point System (Note) No one yard should be penalized more than 10 points Any warp or weft defect occurring repeatedly throughout the entire piece makes it second A combination of both warp and weft defects when occurring in one yarn should not be penalized more than 10 points

11 First Quality Ten Point System Grading A piece is graded as first if the total quality points do not exceed the total yardage of the piece. Eg. 100 yard piece got the penalized of 70. Second Quality A piece is graded a second if the total penalty points exceed the total yardage of the piece.

12 Four Point System

13 Four Point System It was published in 1959 by the National Association of Shirt Pajama Sportswear Manufacturers It got the biggest support for American Society for Quality Control. It was endorsed by federal government for military inspection and American Apparel Manufacturers Association

14 Four Point Systems Knitted Fabric Grading of fabric quality according to penalty points Penalty points are based on the length of defects measured in inch. Fabric inspection is only on one side of fabric and is based on fabric width of inches (knitted fabric) Four penalty points per linear yarn up to 64/66 inches in width The quality shall be expressed in the number of penalty points per 100 yarn length

15 Commerical Knitted Fabric Grading System, Four Point System Four Point System is adopted byamerican Apparel Manufacturers Association (AAMA) for piece goods knitted fabric. Fabric defects is penaltized by maximum of 4 points. ength of the defect in the fabric in either length or width Points allotted Up to 3 inches 1 Over 3 inches to 6 inches 2 Over 6 inches to 9 inches 3 Over 9 inches 4

16 Commerical Acceptance Levels for defect points : abric Type (Ciruclar, V-Bed or ully Fashion, Warp Knit) First Quality Points Per 100 Linear Yards Tricot not over 40 Basic Circular not over 50 Faced Finish Circular not over 60 Novelty Circular not over 70 to 85 Basic Raschel not over 40 Raised Surface Raschel not over 50 Noverty Raschel not over 60 Silver not over 50

17 Four Point Systems (others) All products sold must be have the following properties: Grey Goods: construction blend width weight Finished Goods Buyer must inform seller on any particular condition of goods

18 Calculation Points per 100 square yards = (Total points scored X 3600)/ (Cloth width in inches X yards examined) e.g inspected 100 yards fabric and got 100 penalty points,fabric width is 72 inches, the points per 100 square yards is : (100X3600)/(72X100) =50

19 The Graniteville 78 System

20 Graniteville 78 System It was introduced in 1975 for the field of fabric grading. The system divided defects into major and minor types The major defect was one which was very obvious and lead the goods to second quality The minor defect was one may or may not have caused garment to second, depending on its location in the end use item

21 78 System Point Penalty Point Assignment of Graniteville 78 Defect Length Penalty Points

22 78 Points- Notes The principle was established in garment cutting piece, which the short length defects (less than 9 ) will normally be removed. The system tries to balance the importance of longer defects (over 9 ) and put less weight on 1-10 defects such as slubs The system also suggests the viewing distance of 9 foot instead of normal 3-foot viewing distance. The system tend to eliminate very small defects from the total penalty score.

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Single Jersey Plain. Single Lacoste. Needle set out. Cam arrangement F K. Needle set out. Cam arrangement F1 F2 F3 F4 K T K K K K K T Structure Single Jersey Plain Sample Needle set out 1 1 Cam arrangement F K Single Lacoste Needle set out 1 2 Cam arrangement F1 F2 F3 F4 K T K K K K K T Double Lacoste Needle set out 1 2 Cam arrangement