MatterHackers. How to Install an E3D v6 HotEnd on a Lulzbot. Upgrade your TAZ with a shiny new E3D hotend. Written By: Ryan Lutz

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1 MatterHackers How to Install an E3D v6 HotEnd on a Lulzbot TAZ 5 Upgrade your TAZ with a shiny new E3D hotend. Written By: Ryan Lutz 2017 matterhackers.dozuki.com Page 1 of 21

2 INTRODUCTION NOTE: This guide is applicable to most TAZ printers, but is specific to the TAZ 5 printers manufactured after July Versions prior to these had multiple smaller pin harnesses for connecting the hot end electronics, but the wires were all the same albeit in a different configuration. TOOLS: 2.5mm hex key (1) 1.5mm hex key (1) 3mm hex key (1) Soldering iron (1) Wire cutters (1) Wire strippers (1) Needle-nose pliers (1) 7mm socket wrench (1) Tongue-and-groove pliers or adjustable wrench (1) PARTS: Assembled E3D v6 HotEnd 3.00mm 24V (Direct) (1) E3D Hot End Mount for Lulzbot TAZ 5 (1) TAZ 5 Extended Fan Mount for E3D HotEnd (1) Molex Male AWG Terminal Pin (6) 2017 matterhackers.dozuki.com Page 2 of 21

Step 1 Prepare the printer Make sure the printer and power

Remove any filament from the extruder assembly.

3 Step 1 Prepare the printer Make sure the printer and power supply are off and unplug the power supply from the printer. Remove any filament from the extruder assembly. Step 2 Remove the extruder assembly Unplug the pin harness. Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the M3 screw securing the extruder assembly to the carriage plate. Reinstall the screw into the insert on the carriage plate to keep track of it for reassembly. Lift the extruder assembly up and off the carriage matterhackers.dozuki.com Page 3 of 21

The old blower fan will not be reused. Step 4 Using a 2.

4 Step 3 Remove the old hot end Using a 1.5mm hex key, remove the M2 screw securing the old blower fan. The old blower fan will not be reused. Step 4 Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the four M3 screws securing the layer fan to the layer fan shroud. Once removed from the shroud, keep the screws in the layer fan for reuse during reassembly matterhackers.dozuki.com Page 4 of 21

for re Step 6 Using a 3mm hex key, remove the two M4 screws securing the hot end

5 Step 5 Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the two M3 screws securing the layer fan shroud to the extruder assembly. Reinstall the screws into the inserts on the extruder assembly to keep track of them for reassembly. Step 6 Using a 3mm hex key, remove the two M4 screws securing the hot end plate to the extruder assembly. Make sure to keep these screws in a safe place as they will be reused for reassembly. Once the screws are removed, everything should come apart as shown matterhackers.dozuki.com Page 5 of 21

Step 7 Depending which iteration of the TAZ 5 you have, a "TAZ 5 0.

Remove the following pins from the extruder assembly-side wiring harness:

Thermistor To remove a pin, push in on the small metal tab on the side of

6 Step 7 Depending which iteration of the TAZ 5 you have, a "TAZ 5 0.5mm Nozzle" sticker may need to be removed for this step. Remove the following pins from the extruder assembly-side wiring harness: Pins 5 & 6: Heater cartridge Pins 9 & 10: Blower fan Pins 15 & 16: Thermistor To remove a pin, push in on the small metal tab on the side of the harness with a sharp object, then push down on the end of the pin with a flat object and pull the wire free. Pin diagram from Lulzbot's documentation: Step 8 With the pins removed, the harness should now look like the first picture shown. Clip off the zip tie holding the wires together and remove the old hot end and blower fan matterhackers.dozuki.com Page 6 of 21

Step 9 Extract the inserts for reuse Since the new hot end is longer than the old one, we are going to print a new duct for the

If you have extra M3 inserts, you can skip this step. This step is best done with the shroud in a bench vice.

of needle-nose pliers. Heat up the screw with a soldering iron and apply upward pressure with the pliers until the insert comes out.

7 Step 9 Extract the inserts for reuse Since the new hot end is longer than the old one, we are going to print a new duct for the layer cooling fan. We will need to extract the inserts from the old duct so they can be reused. If you have extra M3 inserts, you can skip this step. This step is best done with the shroud in a bench vice. Take one of the four screws from the layer fan and screw it in to one of the inserts, leaving enough length to grip it with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Heat up the screw with a soldering iron and apply upward pressure with the pliers until the insert comes out. Before handling, wait until the screw and insert cool completely or dip them into water to cool them more quickly. Repeat for the other three inserts matterhackers.dozuki.com Page 7 of 21

Step 10 Install the inserts into the new layer fan shroud Place one of the four inserts you removed in the previous step over one of the holes on the

Insert the soldering iron straight down into the hole as shown in the first picture and apply downward pressure until the insert sinks into place.

8 Step 10 Install the inserts into the new layer fan shroud Place one of the four inserts you removed in the previous step over one of the holes on the new layer fan shroud. Insert the soldering iron straight down into the hole as shown in the first picture and apply downward pressure until the insert sinks into place. Be careful not to press too hard or you risk sinking the insert farther into the hole than it needs to go. Repeat for the other three inserts. Step 11 Install pins on the E3D HotEnd Cut the wires 125mm from the top of the heat sink fan as shown matterhackers.dozuki.com Page 8 of 21

Use a set of needle nose pliers to fold the inner tabs over the bare wire.

9 Step 12 Strip 4-6mm off the end of each wire. Crimp the Molex male terminal pins onto each wire. The pins have two sets of tabs. Use a set of needle nose pliers to fold the inner tabs over the bare wire. Fold the outer tabs over the insulation. For extra security, solder the pins onto the wires matterhackers.dozuki.com Page 9 of 21

Step 13 Reassembly with the new hot end Install the pins according to the pin diagram from earlier: Pins 5 & 6: Heater cartridge Pin 9: Blower fan red Pin 10:

10 Step 13 Reassembly with the new hot end Install the pins according to the pin diagram from earlier: Pins 5 & 6: Heater cartridge Pin 9: Blower fan red Pin 10: Blower fan black Pins 15 & 16: Thermistor Pin diagram from Lulzbot's documentation: matterhackers.dozuki.com Page 10 of 21

Step 14 Fit the new plate around the top of the hot

Fit the top of the hot end into the circular

11 Step 14 Fit the new plate around the top of the hot end as shown. Step 15 Insert the hot end and extruder assembly into the carriage plate as shown. Fit the top of the hot end into the circular indentation on the extruder assembly and reinstall the two M4 screws from earlier matterhackers.dozuki.com Page 11 of 21

Step 16 Install the new layer fan shroud using the two M3

the layer fan installed, the extruder-hot end assembly is

12 Step 16 Install the new layer fan shroud using the two M3 screws you saved from earlier. Step 17 Wind the layer fan wires around the other hot end wires and reinstall the layer fan using the four M3 screws you saved from earlier. With the layer fan installed, the extruder-hot end assembly is complete matterhackers.dozuki.com Page 12 of 21

Step 18 Rewire heat sink fan in control box Remove the four M3

The electronics cooling fan is attached to the plate; be careful not

they are connected to the main circuit board.

13 Step 18 Rewire heat sink fan in control box Remove the four M3 screws securing the access plate to the control box. The electronics cooling fan is attached to the plate; be careful not to put any strain on the wires as you remove the access plate as they are connected to the main circuit board. Step 19 Remove the two-pin connector from its socket on the RAMBo board matterhackers.dozuki.com Page 13 of 21

Step 20 Remove the pins from the harness.

pins. This is done so that the connectors do not

14 Step 20 Remove the pins from the harness. The process is almost the same as removing the pins from the harness in step 7. Just pull the wires out after pushing in on the metal tabs. Step 21 Cut the large end off of the connector pins. This is done so that the connectors do not stick out of the power terminal block and cause a short hazard matterhackers.dozuki.com Page 14 of 21

15 Step 22 Remove the main power wire block from the left side of the RAMBo board. Step 23 Loosen the screws on the red and black terminals at the end of the power block as shown matterhackers.dozuki.com Page 15 of 21

Step 24 Insert each fan wire into its respective power

Tighten the screws firmly to keep the wires in place.

Step 25 Reinstall the access plate with the four M3 screws

16 Step 24 Insert each fan wire into its respective power block terminal (i.e. red to red, black to black). Tighten the screws firmly to keep the wires in place. Reinstall the power terminal block into the RAMBo board. Step 25 Reinstall the access plate with the four M3 screws you removed during disassembly matterhackers.dozuki.com Page 16 of 21

17 Step 26 Reinstall the extruder-hot end assembly back onto the carriage with the M3 screw you removed during disassembly. Step 27 Reconnect the two pin harnesses matterhackers.dozuki.com Page 17 of 21

18 Step 28 If necessary, turn the heater block so that the long end does not protrude toward the front of the printer. The heater block can be turned either direction; just make sure the wires are not strained to reach. If the long end sticks out toward the front of the printer the heater block will come into contact with the bed corner clamp during homing matterhackers.dozuki.com Page 18 of 21

Step 29 Plug the USB cable into the printer.

Plug the four-pin power supply connector into the printer.

19 Step 29 Plug the USB cable into the printer. Plug the other end of the USB cable into the computer. Plug the four-pin power supply connector into the printer. Plug the power supply into a wall outlet and flip the switch to the 'on' position. Step 30 Moment of Truth Everything's connected. Flip the printer's power switch. The LCD screen should show the normal boot sequence and the E3D hot end heat sink fan should start spinning matterhackers.dozuki.com Page 19 of 21

Using a 7mm socket wrench and an adjustable wrench or tongue-andgroove pliers to hold the heat block

20 Step 31 PID Tuning Follow the PID tuning guide to calibrate the new hot end. Step 32 Tighten nozzle Connect the printer to MatterControl and set the extruder temperature to 260 C. Using a 7mm socket wrench and an adjustable wrench or tongue-andgroove pliers to hold the heat block steady, tighten the nozzle. Do not over-tighten; one firm adjustment in the right direction is sufficient matterhackers.dozuki.com Page 20 of 21

Step 33 Readjust Z endstop Unscrew the thumbscrew almost all the

Repeat homing and adjusting until the nozzle is the distance of a

21 Step 33 Readjust Z endstop Unscrew the thumbscrew almost all the way up. Home the Z axis. Depending on how far the nozzle is from the bed, screw the thumbscrew down a turn or two at a time. Repeat homing and adjusting until the nozzle is the distance of a paper's thickness away from the bed. This document was last generated on :26:32 PM matterhackers.dozuki.com Page 21 of 21

INVENT3D Printer Kit Disassembly Instructions

INVENT3D Printer Kit Disassembly Instructions Version 6 AST2 10/26/16 1 I. General Disassembly Instructions Use the case layer drawings to ensure that components are stored in the appropriate location