Fitting Instructions

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Stanley Roberts
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1 Fitting Instructions

2 = Actions. Red = Notes you must read before continuing. Grey = Only applies to canopies over 4m widths. Overview 1. Tools you will need. 2. What you will need to provide. 3. Description of the parts supplied with your canopy. 4. Fitting steps overview. 5. Detailed fitting steps. 1. Tools you will need Item Tool Description 1 Metal drill bits - dia. 3.8mm (for pilot) 2 Driver Bit, Phillips Head, PH2 (for driving the self-tapping screws) NOT Pozidriv 3 51mm Hole saw. 4 10mm Socket 5 Ratchet Driver for 10mm socket (item 04). 6 Spirit Level. 7 Power Drill/Driver, Hammer Drill Amp Extension cable. 9 Marker Pen. 10 Soft Lead pencil. 11 Robust Step Ladder(s). 12 Digging Equipment for Supporting Post foundation holes. 13 Hacksaw 2. What you will need to provide Item Item Description 1 Fixings to secure Wall Plate usually masonry fixings 2 Drill bits for fixings in Item 1 3 Fixings for securing Supporting Post Feet 4 Drill bits for fixings in Item 3 5 Sand and cement/ post mix and water if you are cementing the post instead of bolts Notes: Self-tapping screws are easier to fix if they are greased or wax before use. Cleaning and maintenance information can be found at the back of these instructions. Clear As Glass (6mm) roof panel assembly information on the back page. 2 Copyright LuMac ltd 2012

3 3. Description of the parts supplied with your canopy Supporting Leg Post/Foot L Bracket Wall Plate Gutter Edge Glazing Bar Middle Glazing Bar Sheet Closure Roof Panel Edge Glazing End Cap Main Glazing bar end cap Gutter End Plate Wall Plate end cap 4. Fitting steps Overview: 1. Dig your post/foot holes. 2. Fix wall plate. 3. Fit L brackets to the gutter. 4. Fit the gutter to the legs & check levels. 5. Makes holes where the rain will drain through to the legs. 6. Fit the end glazing bars (from gutter to wall plate) & check levels. 7. Fit the roof panels and inner glazing bars. 8. Re-position glazing bars to achieve the correct spacing. 9. Fit the sheet closure bars to the roof panels (at the gutter end). 10. Secure the glazing bars in place at both the wall plate and the gutter. 11. Secure post feet in foundations & Make rain drainage holes in the legs. 3 Copyright LuMac ltd 2012

5. Detailed Fitting steps 1. Digging your post/foot holes Width (m) Projection (m) Poly Projection wall to inside face of supporting post (mm) Roof Pitch = 10 degrees N/A 1.5 16mm 1491 N/A 2.

These holes should be a minimum of 300mm square & 500mm deep. Depending on grounds conditions you may need to dig deeper untill secure ground is reached.

4 5. Detailed Fitting steps 1. Digging your post/foot holes Width (m) Projection (m) Poly Projection wall to inside face of supporting post (mm) Roof Pitch = 10 degrees N/A mm 1491 N/A mm 1981 N/A mm 2471 N/A mm 2961 N/A mm 3461 N/A mm 3951 Mark position of each Supporting Post (Use the graph above). Dig holes for each Supporting Post. These holes should be a minimum of 300mm square & 500mm deep. Depending on grounds conditions you may need to dig deeper untill secure ground is reached. Pour concrete mix into each hole to a depth of 100mm to provide footing for Supporting Post Feet. Do not overwater as the mix needs to start skinning over as soon as possible so the legs to not sink when you stand them on the concrete. Note: Concrete mix should ideally be: 1 part cement: 3.5 parts sand : 2.5 parts course aggregate. If using combined aggregate the mix should be: 1 part cement: 5 parts combined aggregate. 4 Copyright LuMac ltd 2012

Fit the Supporting Posts with the Supporting Post Feet. Insert 2 Post feet per leg.

Secure the feet to the post Drill 2 x 3.5mm holes. Then use 2 x self-tapping screws.

Fix Wall Plate Drill the holes in the wall plate before it is shown up to the wall.

5 Fit the Supporting Posts with the Supporting Post Feet. Insert 2 Post feet per leg. The Post Foot will slide into the channels on the inside of the Post. Secure the feet to the post Drill 2 x 3.5mm holes. Then use 2 x self-tapping screws. Repeat this process for all supporting posts. Each post should have 2 foot brackets attached. 2. Fix Wall Plate Drill the holes in the wall plate before it is shown up to the wall. Keep the holes centered along the wall plate. Holes should be no more than 450 mm apart. Wall fixings are not supplied as your wall plate could be fixed to wide variety of materials. Please use appropriate fixings for your application 5 Copyright LuMac ltd 2012

Remove protective film from the wall plate end caps. Use self-tapping screws to secure the wall plate end caps. Make sure the holes in the end cap align with the screw ports in the wall plate.

The Joining Plate is 350mm in length and is designed to be a tight fit. You may file this or cut it shorter to make fitting it easier.

If there are more than 2 sections repeat until all wall plates are connected together.

6 Remove protective film from the wall plate end caps. Use self-tapping screws to secure the wall plate end caps. Make sure the holes in the end cap align with the screw ports in the wall plate. The Following step is only required if your wall plate was supplied in 2 sections Insert Joining Plate into joining plate slots on one of the wall-plates. The Joining Plate is 350mm in length and is designed to be a tight fit. You may file this or cut it shorter to make fitting it easier. Use a Rubber Mallet to tap in the Joining Plate into the joining plate slots to half its length. Join the other wall plate to the first section that has the joining bar now fitted. If there are more than 2 sections repeat until all wall plates are connected together. The wall plate can now be fixed to the wall Use the chart below to find the height of your wall plate Projection (m) Underside of Eaves/Gutter beam height Ground level to underside of wall plate height. (metres) Ground level to underside of wall plate height. (millimetres) Copyright LuMac ltd 2012

Present the Wall-plate to its fixing location.

Remove the wall plate & drill the outermost hole. Run 2 beads of silicon along the back of the wall plate.

Make sure the wall-plate is level using a spirit level before drilling the next holes Drill into the fixing surface through

Once wall-plate is secure apply a large bead of silicone along the top edge, sealing the wall and the wall-plate. 3.

7 Present the Wall-plate to its fixing location. Mark the fixing locations of an outer most hole through one of the holes drilled in the wall-plate. Remove the wall plate & drill the outermost hole. Run 2 beads of silicon along the back of the wall plate. Re-present the wall plate and secure the first fixing through the wall-plate into the hole you have just drilled. Make sure the wall-plate is level using a spirit level before drilling the next holes Drill into the fixing surface through the remaining holes in the wall plate. Apply the remaining fixings to finish securing the wall-plate. Once wall-plate is secure apply a large bead of silicone along the top edge, sealing the wall and the wall-plate. 3. Fitting L brackets to the Eaves/Gutter Each L bracket needs 4 set screws. End leg/posts only have one L bracket fitted. Slot the required number of set screws into the set screw channels. Make sure there is an even number of set screws in each channel 7 Copyright LuMac ltd 2012

Remember the End leg/posts only need 1 bracket but supporting posts (middle posts) need 2 brackets

Plate into joining plate slots on one of the Eaves/gutter sections.

You may file this or cut it shorter to make fitting it easier.

8 Fit the L brackets to the screws. Tighten the M6 nuts, but leave them loose enough to slide the L brackets along the channels. Remember the End leg/posts only need 1 bracket but supporting posts (middle posts) need 2 brackets The Following step is only required if your Eaves/Gutter was supplied in 2 sections Insert Joining Plate into joining plate slots on one of the Eaves/gutter sections. The Joining Plate is 350mm in length and is designed to be a tight fit. You may file this or cut it shorter to make fitting it easier. Use a Rubber Mallet to tap in the Joining Plate into the joining plate slots to half its length. If there are more than 2 sections repeat until all Eaves/Gutters sections contain a joining bar. Do not connect them all together yet. 8 Copyright LuMac ltd 2012

Apply silicone sealant to the ends of the Eaves/Gutter.

Secure the Gutter end plate with 4 self-tapping screws.

This will help seal the join between the End cap and the gutter 4.

9 Apply silicone sealant to the ends of the Eaves/Gutter. Make sure the screw holes of the end cap line up with the screw ports in the gutter. Secure the Gutter end plate with 4 self-tapping screws. Smooth the silicone sealant that will have compressed out from the edges. This will help seal the join between the End cap and the gutter 4. Fit the gutter to the legs & check levels This will take a minimum of 2 people. Put the posts in position. Whilst the posts are being held, lift the gutter onto the top of the posts. Slide the L Brackets along so they are in position on the outside of the supporting posts Remember the end posts only have 1 L bracket. Middle posts have 2 L brackets You must make sure the levels are correct. 9 Copyright LuMac ltd 2012

The Following step is only required if your

Join the Gutter sections together as shown

drilling 2 holes and using 2 selftapping

. This is completed on just the inside of

10 The Following step is only required if your Eaves/Gutter was supplied in 2 sections Join the Gutter sections together as shown Smooth sealant over the join on both the inside and outside of the joint. Secure the outside supporting post by drilling 2 holes and using 2 selftapping screws.. This is completed on just the inside of the gutter. Each outer post will have 2 screws used, 2 on inside only as shown 10 Copyright LuMac ltd 2012

11 Secure the brackets in position by tightening the M6 Nuts Secure the brackets to the posts Hold the L bracket, post and Gutter tightly in position. Drill 4 holes through the L bracket into the posts. Screw the L bracket to the posts with 4 self-tapping screws. 11 Copyright LuMac ltd 2012

5. Makes a hole where the rain will drain through to the leg.

care ensuring the holes are drilled above the leg.

Fit the end glazing bars (from gutter to wall plate) & check levels.

(In this image the gutter end cap has been removed to demonstrate how much

OF THE DISTANCE BETWEEN YELLOW ARROWS Or make a block to use as a spacer for

12 5. Makes a hole where the rain will drain through to the leg. Decide on which leg will be the downpipe. Drill a 51mm hole above centre of leg. This hole is to allow rainwater to drain down the support leg so take extra care ensuring the holes are drilled above the leg. Silicone seal around the rainwater adapter. Slot in position. 6. Fit the end glazing bars (from gutter to wall plate) & check levels. Place the End-Glazing bar in positing and check the levels. (In this image the gutter end cap has been removed to demonstrate how much gap should be left, your end cap will have been fitted already) MAKE A NOTE OF THE DISTANCE BETWEEN YELLOW ARROWS Or make a block to use as a spacer for the remaining glazing bars (Blue arrow) Secure either end of the end-glazing bar by drilling a single hole and by using a self-tapping screw. There should be 1 screw at the Gutter end and one at the wall-plate end. 12 Copyright LuMac ltd 2012

Fit the end glazing bar to the other end of the gutter to complete the frame. Check the levels at this point. Also check the canopy is square i.e. the glazing bars are perpendicular to the wall plate.

Remove the protective film from the Roof Panels The protective film with the writing on is the top of the panel The edge with the silver tape on it goes at the Wall end, the

Slide in position all the roof panels and inner glazing bars DO NOT FIX THEM IN POSITION YET Repeat the process until all roof panels and glazing bars are in position To fit

13 Fit the end glazing bar to the other end of the gutter to complete the frame. Check the levels at this point. Also check the canopy is square i.e. the glazing bars are perpendicular to the wall plate. 7. Fit the roof panels and inner glazing bars IF YOU HAVE CLEAR AS GLASS ROOF PANELS PLEASE REFER TO THE LAST PAGE. Remove the protective film from the Roof Panels The protective film with the writing on is the top of the panel The edge with the silver tape on it goes at the Wall end, the grey breather tape at the Gutter end. Slide in position all the roof panels and inner glazing bars DO NOT FIX THEM IN POSITION YET Repeat the process until all roof panels and glazing bars are in position To fit the last roof sheet you will need to remove the end glazing bar temporarily BEFORE REMOVING THE END GLAZING BAR YOU WILL NEED TO SECURE THE LAST INNER GLAZING BAR AT THE WALL AND GUTTER END. This will make sure the canopy frame holds its shape. Fit the last roof panel into position. Re-Fit the end glazing bar 13 Copyright LuMac ltd 2012

14 Over 3m Projection Up to 3m Projection LuMac Fitting Instructions 8. Re-position the glazing bars to achieve the correct spacing Use the following chart to give you the spacing for the main (inner) glazing bars If your width has been cut to a nonstandard size please refer to the spacing sheet delivered with your canopy.!!for CLEAR AS GLASS 6MM PLEASE SEE PAGE 18!! Main Glazing Bar Spacing Canopy Width (mm) Wall-Plate and Eaves/Gutter width (mm) Qty. of Edge Bars Qty. of Glazing Bars Qty. Panels Panel width (mm) Edge bar base width (mm) Glazing Bar base width (mm) Space to be allowed between each glazing bar (mm) Dimension from same edge to same edge, glazing bar to glazing bar (mm) 2,106 2, ,106 3, ,200 4, ,200 5, ,300 6, ,400 7, ,106 2, ,800 2, ,506 3, ,206 4, ,906 4, ,606 5, ,306 6, ,006 7, ,806 7, ,406 8, ,206 9, (Also) Length of Sheet Closures (mm) Position the main inner glazing bars so they are evenly spaced. Mark their correct position with a pencil (you will need this mark in the next steps). Use the spacing in the table above. DO NOT SECURE THE MAIN GLAZING BARS YET 14 Copyright LuMac ltd 2012

9. Fit the sheet closure bars to the roof panels (at the gutter end) Make sure there is a breather gap between the end of the roof

Run silicone along the top edge of the sheet closure where it meets the top of the roof panel to stop water ingress (Yellow arrow).

You will need to lift the glazing bars up so you can get the screw driver over the gutter top to reach the end cap screw head. 10.

Check the positions of the main glazing bars If you cut a measuring block earlier for the edge glazing bars use this to get the

15 9. Fit the sheet closure bars to the roof panels (at the gutter end) Make sure there is a breather gap between the end of the roof sheet and the end sheet closure of roughly 8mm (purple arrow). Run silicone along the top edge of the sheet closure where it meets the top of the roof panel to stop water ingress (Yellow arrow). o CLEAR AS GLASS DOES NOT USE THESE Fit the end cap on the glazing bars (Green Arrow). You will need to lift the glazing bars up so you can get the screw driver over the gutter top to reach the end cap screw head. 10. Secure the glazing bars in place at both the wall plate and the gutter. Check the positions of the main glazing bars If you cut a measuring block earlier for the edge glazing bars use this to get the correct distance from the gutter. If not use a tape measure. Secure the main glazing bars in position by drilling the first of 2 holes and inserting that screw then repeat for the second hole and screw. If you do not follow the above and try to drill both holes first you could snap the 15 Copyright LuMac ltd 2012

Pour Concrete mix into Supporting Post Holes covering the Supporting Post Feet

Once installation is complete and the ground has been made good around support

Make sure that the hole is on the correct face of the Supporting Post(s) so

This hole(s) should be drilled as close as possible to the ground level This

16 screw. 11. Secure post feet in the foundations & Make rain drainage holes in the legs. Pour Concrete mix into Supporting Post Holes covering the Supporting Post Feet with recommended 300mm cube of concrete. Make the surface good. Once installation is complete and the ground has been made good around support posts. Cut the rainwater drainage holes in Supporting Post(s). Make sure that the hole is on the correct face of the Supporting Post(s) so that the rainwater flows out of the hole in the correct direction. This hole(s) should be drilled as close as possible to the ground level This Final Step only applies if you have more than one gutter section Apply Flash-band to the internal join of the (2) Eaves/Gutters. This is to seal the join in the gutter. 16 Copyright LuMac ltd 2012

ld have done differently to make your installation easier. 01462 888073 Info@LuMacCanopies.co.

17 Congratulations!! You have completed the installation of your LuMac Canopy. Drop us an , or call, to let us know how it went and if there is anything we could have done differently to make your installation easier Clear as Glass Roof Panel Assembly So that the roof sheets can secure into the glazing bars (rafters) they must have an edge strip fitted along their length. (Marked by Orange arrows). Glazing bar (Blue Arrow). Make sure the end of the strips line up with the end of the roof panel The top of the roof panel is the side with the writing on it. Once these Have been they will then secure (rafters) like this: fitted to the roof sheet into the glazing bars 17 Copyright LuMac ltd 2012

18 Clear as glass panels do not have sheet end closures fitted. 18 Copyright LuMac ltd 2012

19 19 Copyright LuMac ltd 2012

20 20 Copyright LuMac ltd 2012 Care and Maintenance Your LuMac canopy will require very little care and maintenance. The metalwork is powder coated in polyester. This is very hard-wearing. The roof panels are formed in polycarbonate. This is 200 times stronger than glass and is highly impact resistant. Cleaning 1. The metalwork can be cleaned with a soft cloth and soapy water. 2. The (polycarbonate) roof panels can be cleaned: a. Gently wash sheet with a solution of mild soap and lukewarm water, using a soft, grid-free cloth or sponge to loosen any dirt or grime. b. Fresh paint splashes; grease and smeared glazing compounds can be removed easily before drying by rubbing lightly with a soft cloth using petroleum ether (BP65), hexane or heptane. Afterwards, wash the sheet using mild soap and lukewarm water. c. Scratches and minor abrasions can be minimised by using a mild automobile polish. Test on a small area of sheet before using on the entire sheet is recommended. d. Finally, thoroughly rinse with clean water to remove any cleaner residue and dry the surface with a soft cloth to prevent water spotting. Other important instructions for (polycarbonate) roof panels: 1. Never use abrasive or highly alkaline cleaner on polycarbonate materials. 2. Never use aromatic or halogenated solvents like toluene, benzene, gasoline, acetone or carbon tetrachloride on polycarbonate materials. 3. Use of in with polycarbonate sheet can cause structural and/or surface damage. 4. Contact with harsh solvents such as methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) or hydrochloric acid can result in surface degradation and possible crazing of polycarbonate sheet. 5. Never scrub with brushes, steel wool or other abrasive materials. 6. Never use squeegees, razorblades or other sharp instruments to remove deposits or spots. 7. Do not clean polycarbonate in direct sunlight or at high temperatures as this can lead to staining. 8. For all mentioned chemicals consult the manufacturers material safety data sheets for proper safety precautions.

Document: Installation Guide Guide No: 019 Description: Omega Canopy, Free-Standing, Gable-Roof, Type 1

Document: Installation Guide Guide No: 019 Description: Omega Canopy, Free-Standing, Gable-Roof, Type 1 Page 1 of 42 Sections: Section No. Section Description Page No. 01 Essential Tools 2 02 Tools that will make Installation easier 2 03 Items to be supplied by Installer 2 04 Canopy main components 3 05