INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS Ceiling Light Fixture Bug Tight Light

Transcription

1 INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS Ceiling Light Fixture Bug Tight Light Kenall Model #MR17FL-P-DB-42P-2-120, Bronze, Two Compact, Fluorescent Lamps, 42 Watt, 4 pin, Phillips #PL-T 42W/41/4P Completed Installation Bug Tight Ceiling Light Fixture 1. This bug tight light is a great addition to the KOA Kamping Kabin program. The one-room cabin utilizes one of these lights, while the two-room cabin utilizes two of the lights (one in the front room and one in the rear). As the title states, these lights are bug tight, meaning that they will not collect bugs, dust, etc. This is good news for your camping customer and most importantly to those who keep the kabins clean; a lot less work. However, proper installation is critical to ensure that they are bug tight. 2. Equally important is the increased light output that this light provides. This lighting fixture contains two 42-watt compact fluorescent lights (PL-T, 42W, 4 pin lamps) producing a total output of 84-watts of compact fluorescent light. As our customers have become more sophisticated they have

2 Installation Instructions Bug Tight Light 2/17 increasingly expressed a desire for adequate lighting in the KOA Kamping Kabins. These new lights provide the recommended illumination level (foot candles) as recommended by all of the architectural and building code lighting standards. 3. Another benefit is the long life and energy efficiency of the lamps. These 42-watt compact fluorescent lamps have a life in excess of 10,000 hours and will produce 90% of their rated lumens in temperatures as low as 23 o F. To those of us whom own and operate campgrounds, the meaningful point is: there should be no reason to replace lamps for 5 or 6 years with this fixture and lamps assuming normal use. The lamps are very energy efficient. In fact, the 84-watts of fluorescent light is equal to 300+ watts of incandescent light.

3 Installation Instructions Bug Tight Light 3/17 Photo #1 Remove the Existing Light Fixture, Lamp & Decorative Log End 1. Although it probably goes without saying, be sure that you turn off the circuit breakers or in some way remove all electrical power prior to removing the existing ceiling light. 2. In photo #1, we removed the existing light, associated log end and porcelain socket lamp holder, etc. This photo shows one of the older 30-watt circular fluorescent drum fixtures. The KOA Kamping Kabin program has used a number of light fixtures over the years. Consequently, you may or may not have this style of light fixture. It makes no difference, simply remove the existing light fixture leaving only the octagon box mounted to the 4x6 top roof beam with the wires extending from it. This is a 2 ¼ deep octagon box in the photo. 3. There is a remote possibility that your octagon box maybe be 1 ½ deep instead of 2 ¼ deep. Again, no problem. In the photo #3, you will see us installing a square wooden mounting block that surrounds this 2 ¼ octagon box and provides a solid mounting surface for the new light. If by some rare chance you have the 1 ½ octagon box there are two solutions: a) Remove the 1 ½ box and replace it with a 2 ¼ octagon box b) Remove the ¾ thick piece of wood from the wood mounting block that we have sent with your kit. This will produce a wood mounting block that is only a 1 ½ thick. Again, it is very remote that you have a 1 ½ deep octagon box. Nearly every kabin that Prairie Kraft shipped had a 2 ¼ deep octagon box as standard. 4. For those of you with a technical interest, the 2 ¼ octagon box is utilized (instead of the 1 ½ octagon box) to provide adequate wiring space (meets the National Electrical Code) due to the number of wires that are connected in this box. In simple words, the National Electrical Code requires a 2 ¼ deep octagon box to meet code for the ceiling light.

4 Installation Instructions Bug Tight Light 4/17 Photo #2 Hook the Green Grounding Wire (Add if Needed) to the Back of the 2 ¼ Deep Octagon Box 1. Most installations (all kabins from Prairie Kraft for the past 6-years and obviously the current ones) have the green grounding wire. If your kabin does not have the green grounding wire, add one to the back of the octagon box utilizing the #10 threaded hole at the back of the box. In this photo, we are pointing at the green grounding screw. All lights are shipped with a green grounding screw as well as a short piece of green wire for those installations that do not already have the green wire. 2. Later in the installation, we will bring all of the ground wires together and connect them with a green wire nut. The main point of photo #2 is to ensure that you bond the green ground wire to the back of the octagon box using the #10 green grounding screw.

5 Installation Instructions Bug Tight Light 5/17 Photo #3 Install the 2 ¼ Thick Wood Mounting Block to the 4x6 Top Roof Beam 1. Using four, 4 long drywall screws (sent with your light) attach the 2 ¼ thick mounting block to the 4x6 ceiling beam. 2. Remember, your ceiling beam is 6 wide, hence we have marked the screws being set 5 apart. The author prefers to also slightly angle the screws to be sure that they hit the 4x6 roof beam. 3. This 2 ¼ thick wood mounting block is a MUST. It is needed to provide the seal (a piece of ¼ thick foam rubber) between the light fixture and 2 ¼ deep octagon box. Do not mount the light fixture directly to the octagon box. Use this 2 ¼ thick wood mounting block as shown in this photo.

6 Installation Instructions Bug Tight Light 6/17 Photo #4 Utilizing Caulk, Seal the Two Conduit Runs Entering the 2 ¼ Deep Octagon Box 1. It is important to pump caulk (fill full) into the two conduit runs entering this octagon box. This does not eliminate but it certainly minimizes, the number of bugs that will enter the octagon box and in turn the number that try to enter the light fixture. 2. The type of caulk that is utilized is not terribly important. In new kabin construction, simply utilize the black caulk that has been sent with your cabin to seal up the log walls. For those who are retrofitting the kabin lights, you may have the same black caulk left over from previous kabin construction, maintenance to the kabins, etc. Any good latex, silicone or urethane caulk will work fine. Caulk (fill full) the ½ EMT conduit coming down through the ceiling and the Wire Mold conduit going to the smoke detector. 3. Should there be some KO s (knock outs) removed from your octagon box, seal them utilizing a standard ½ electrical knock out closure (seal it with caulk so that it is bug tight). Also, be sure that the octagon box is tightly mounted to the ceiling beam with couple of drywall screws (¼ minimum length) through the holes in the back of the octagon box into the 4x6 roof beam. In simple words, seal all holes in the octagon box to minimize (you will never eliminate) bug entry into the octagon box.

7 Installation Instructions Bug Tight Light 7/17 Photo #5 Strip Wires ¾, Twist Same Color (Green & White) Wires Together 1. Strip the two black and two white wires from the fixture so that you have ¾ bare copper wire showing. The yellow pen is pointing at one such wire stripped ¾. 2. The white wires may or may not be twisted together depending upon the vintage of your kabin. a) Beginning in 2004, the national electric code required arc fault breakers to be utilized in all sleeping quarters. As such, all Prairie Kraft kabins produced since early 2004 have arc fault breakers. b) Those kabins with arc fault breakers (current production ones) have two white wires coming into the octagon box from the ½ EMT conduit that drops down through the 4x6 roof beam. I. i. One is the neutral for the ceiling light. ii. The other is the neutral for the smoke detector. iii. In other words, the smoke detector and the ceiling light are on their own circuit and DO NOT share a common neutral. c) Older kabins, as in this photo, do not have arc fault breakers and a common neutral wire was utilized for both the ceiling light and the smoke detector. This is the type of installation you see in this photo. d) If your kabin has arc fault breakers (current production ones) you WILL NOT have two white wires to twist together. One neutral (for the smoke detector) simply passes through the octagon box. The other neutral (white wire) will be used for this ceiling light. e) If your kabin (older) has a shared neutral, you will have one white wire coming down through the 4x6 roof beam in the ½ EMT conduit and one white wire coming from the smoke detector in the Wire Mold conduit. Strip them back ¾ and twist them together utilizing a pair of pliers (as shown in the photo above). 3. All kabins have the green wires twisted together as you can see in the photo. Simply strip the green wire ¾ and tightly twist them together using pliers. Pre-twisting these wires together makes the installation of the ceiling light much easier.

8 Installation Instructions Bug Tight Light 8/17 Photo #6 Remove the Paper Backing from the Foam Pad & Attach the Foam Pad to the Back of the Fixture 1. At this time, remove the lens from the light fixture. There is a small #8 by ½ long fillister head screw (Phillips head) that when removed will allow the lens to come off. You should find your lens (as shipped from the factory) having not yet been pressed and twisted into place. If by chance that is not the case, the instructions supplied with the light discuss pressing down and turning the lens to remove it. When the installation is complete the lens will be pressed into place and twisted approximately 5 degrees; that locks the cams (on the plastic lens) into the fixture, thereby tightly sealing it to prevent bug entry. 2. Remove the paper backing from the foam pad and place the foam pad (sticky side down) on the back of the fixture bringing the wires through the hole in the center of the foam pad. 3. The adhesive backing on the foam pad will bond the foam pad to the back of the fixture. More importantly, when it is squeezed up against the 2 ¼ thick wood block it will thoroughly seal the foam pad to the fixture and wood block, octagon box, etc. 4. The factory supplied this fixture with a #8 x ½ long tamper proof screw that held the lens in place. Knowing that we (those of us in the camping business) do not have a tamper proof issue, we have substituted this tamper proof screw with a standard fillister head #8 x ½ long Phillips drive screw. The tamper proof screw requires a special tool (unfortunately not supplied with the light) to remove it. Should anyone desire the tamper proof screw, Prairie Kraft Specialties would be more than happy to supply it with the driver. It has been the author s experience that one can find the driver during initial installation (if supplied with the light), but later on when maintenance is needed the special driver is gone, hence we have gone with a standard Phillips drive screw.

9 Installation Instructions Bug Tight Light 9/17 Photo #7 Strip Four Wires (Black & White) ¾ & Twist Like Colors Together 1. Note that there are two black and two white wires for this fixture. There are two ballasts in the fixture and each ballast has its own black and white wire. 2. Strip the black and white wires ¾, then using a pair of pliers twist the two stripped ends of the black wires together. Similarly, twist the ¾ stripped ends of the white wires together. 3. The use of a pair of pliers is necessary to get these wires twisted tightly together. Doing this prior to putting the light up to the ceiling makes installing the light much easier.

10 Installation Instructions Bug Tight Light 10/17 Photo #8 Small Wires Extend 1/16 Beyond Large Wires from Octagon Box & Twist on Wire Nuts 1. THIS IS AN IMPORTANT DETAIL. At this time, we are going to attach the two small black wires from the lighting fixture to the #12 solid black wire coming down from the octagon box. We will do the same with the two small white wires from the fixture attaching them either to one white wire from the octagon box (those kabins that have an arc fault breaker) or to two white wires (previously twisted together) in the older kabins (as seen in this photo). 2. It is necessary to support the fixture while hooking up the wires. This can be done by having someone hold the fixture or by having it supported on a stepladder. In this photo, we have supported the fixture on a stepladder. 3. Ensure that the smaller wires (from the light fixture) extend 1/16 beyond the larger #12 solid wire. Now taking a yellow wire nut, twist it on the #12 solid wire thereby securing the smaller two wires (two blacks and two whites respectively) to the similarly colored (black and white) #12 solid copper wire. 4. The reason to have the smaller wires extend 1/16 beyond the larger wire is so that the yellow wire nut will thoroughly anchor them to the larger #12 solid wire. If this is not done (extend 1/16 ) the wire nut will often push the smaller wires in front of it, never securing them or making good electrical connection between the small wires and the #12 solid copper wire. 5. See the next photo (#9) for additional details before beginning to wire them together.

11 Installation Instructions Bug Tight Light 11/17 Photo #9 Using Two Yellow Wire Nuts & One Green Wire Nut, Complete the Wiring of this Fixture 1. It is necessary to support the fixture while hooking up the wires. This can be done by having someone hold the fixture or by having it supported on a stepladder. In this photo, we have supported the fixture on a stepladder. 2. Remember to have the small black and white wires extend beyond the heavier #12 black and white wire by a 1/16 prior to putting on the wire nuts. 3. For reference, it is the electric codes and the manufacturer s instructions that specify the wire connections be made in the octagon box and not in the fixture. This is why the wire connections are made inside the octagon box. 4. Use yellow wire nuts on the black and white wires. Use one green wire nut on the green grounding wires. You will note that the grounding wire from the fixture is a bare silver wire.

12 Installation Instructions Bug Tight Light 12/17 Photo #10 Push the Wires Up into the Octagon Box 1. As we mentioned previously (when installing the wire nuts) it is necessary to have either a second person holding the fixture up into place or to have it supported on a stepladder. In these particular photos, we have supported the fixture on a tall stepladder. 2. Take the wires (with all the wire nuts installed) and push them up into the octagon box. Generally, this is accomplished by folding them over (once) and then pushing them solidly up against the back of octagon box.

13 Installation Instructions Bug Tight Light 13/17 Photo #11 1 ½ long RSS lag screw Mount the Fixture to the Ceiling Using Four, 1 ½ Long RSS Lag Screws 1. If you haven t already done so, remove the white reflector pan (shown in the lower left hand corner of this photo) from the fixture. 2. Using four 1 ½ long RSS lag screws (as shown in the inset photo in the top right of this photo) attach the fixture to the 2 ¼ thick wood block that you previously mounted to the ceiling. It is important that you place these 1 ½ long RSS lag screws in the four mounting locations on the fixture. In this photo, we are pointing to one of these locations with the yellow pen. Again, there are four such locations. 3. Utilizing either a ¼ drill or a ¼ punch, punch these holes clear so that they will accept the screws. Details of punching out the four mounting holes are further detailed in the installation instructions supplied with your light. 4. It is important that you orient the light so that the four screws will hit the 2 ¼ thick wood mounting block previously mounted to the 4x6 roof beam. 5. Run these four RSS lag screws up tight, but do not over tighten them. If you over tighten them, it will crack the cast housing that forms the back of this fixture. 6. IMPORTANT DETAIL. You want to protect the integrity of the foam pad. To do that, you must prevent the fixture from hanging from the wires, as you will find it tears the foam pad. We have found that it requires two people; one to support the fixture (or set it on a stepladder) while the other attaches the fixture using the four RSS screws. 7. Be sure all the wires are carefully put inside the octagon box before you screw the fixture tight to the wood mounting block. Again, supporting the fixture on a stepladder or having two people greatly facilitates this process.

14 Installation Instructions Bug Tight Light 14/17 Photo #12 Thoroughly Caulk the Wires Where They Enter the Fixture 1. It is important that you thoroughly caulk where the wires enter the fixture through the ¼ foam pad. 2. The author has found that putting one lamp in the fixture and turning on the electricity (so you can see) really helps to ensure that you thoroughly and completely seal where the wires enter the fixture. Hence, the reason you see the one lamp installed in this fixture. 3. The type of caulk you use is unimportant as long as it is a good type of caulk such as a latex, silicone or urethane. In this photo, we are using a black siliconized acrylic latex caulk that is used on the exterior walls of the kabin, which is an excellent choice. As an alternative, one could use an expanding foam product. If using expanding foam, you do not want to use too much. One will have to be careful to allow for the expansion when placing the foam. The author prefers to use caulk as seen in this photo.

15 Installation Instructions Bug Tight Light 15/17 Photo #13 Re-install the White Reflector Pan & Install the Two 42-watt Compact Fluorescent Lamps 1. Using the two screws that you removed to remove the white reflector pan, re-install the white reflector pan. The reason you had to remove the white reflector pan was to be able to caulk around the wires where they came into the fixture. 2. Install the two 42-watt compact fluorescent lights, PL-T42W, 4 pin lamps.

16 Installation Instructions Bug Tight Light 16/17 #8 x 1 ½ Long Phillips Drive Screw Photo #14 Install the Plastic Lens and Its Locking Screw 1. Our experience is that generally installing the plastic lens is quite easy. On the other hand, the author has occasionally found one that you really have to push and turn to get the lens to lock into place. In this photo you can see us pushing up on the lens as we rotate it clockwise. The round plastic lens rotates 5 degrees to lock the little cams (on the plastic lens) into place. 2. The lens can only be installed in one location. If you inspect all of the little grooves and channels (on the lens and fixture) it is obvious that the lens only fits into the fixture in one orientation. The easiest way to orient the lens properly is to align the locking screw with its associated slot on the plastic lens. 3. If you find the lens difficult to install, push upward (quite hard) to compress the gasket that seals the lens in the fixture. Then (notice that we have our hands flat on the lens) you can rotate the lens and lock it into place. 4. As previously mentioned, we have removed the tamper proof screw and substituted a #8 x ½ long Phillips drive screw. Should anyone desire the tamper proof screw, please contact Prairie Kraft Specialties and we will be happy to supply it.

17 Installation Instructions Bug Tight Light 17/17 Photo #15 The Job is Done It Looks Great!! 1. Obviously, test the light. If you have the opportunity to view the kabin with the old light, you will be very impressed with the increased light level. This light provides sufficient light to read a book, newspaper or magazine sitting on the beds or the bench, etc. 2. If you have any questions or comments, please do not hesitate to contact Prairie Kraft Specialties. We welcome your thoughts. Thanks.