UrbanBeam Yagi Assembly Manual

Transcription

1 UrbanBeam Yagi Assembly Manual This assembly manual is intended to be printed in full COLOR. If the manual is printed in black and white, many important details could be lost. REV /23/2018 Page SE Support: 32nd Street, steppir.com/support Bellevue, WA Tel: l Tel: support@steppir.com l sales@steppir.com

2 PREAMBLE UrbanBeam Yagi Specifications Specifications UrbanBeam Yagi Boom length 4.0 ft / 1.22 m Boom outside diameter 1.75 in / 4.45 cm Longest element 30.5 ft / 9.3 m Turning radius 15.5 ft / 4.72 m Weight 45 lb / 20.5 kg Wind load - EIA-222-F/G 7.9 ft 2 / 0.73m 2 Wind load - EIA-222-C 4.4 ft 2 / 0.41m 2 Wind rating 100 mph Adjustable elements 2 Power Rating 3000 watts continuous Feed points 1 Frequency coverage 6.8 MHz 54 MHz Control cable 12 conductor shielded, 22AWG Frequency Gain dbi Front to Back db Front to Rear db 40M (F/S) 30M (F/S) 20M M M M M M A full size dipole is referenced at 2.1dBi 2 Measured SWR is 2.3:1 for this model on 30m Page 2

3 URBANBEAM TABLE OF CONTENTS Page(s) Preamble 2-19 Antenna specifications 2 OK, NOW WHAT?? Advice from Jim Streible K4DLI (SK) 7-8 Parts Checklist 9-10 Assembly Kits Bill of Materials Assembly Notes (Read before you start assembly) 13 A Word About Stainless Steel and the Potential for Galling 14 Antenna Overview 15 Section 1 Boom / Mast Plate Assembly Overview 16 EHU Boom Locations 17 EHU Placement 18 EHU Overview 19 EHU Wiring Director EHU Drawing 22 Attaching Director Mounting Plate & EHU to Boom 23 Driven EHU Drawing 24 Attaching Driven Mounting Plate & EHU to Boom 25 Section 2 Mounting the Boom to the Mast Plate Mast Plate-to-Boom Overview Drawing 26 Attaching Boom to Mast Plate 27 Mounting the Terminal Housing Tube 28 Section 3 Boom Wiring & Initial Testing Control Cable to D-Sub 29 Wiring EHUs to Control Cable Wiring Test 32 Page 3

4 URBANBEAM TABLE OF CONTENTS (Continued) Page(s) Section 4 Preparing Telescoping Poles and Loop Tubes Overview 33 Preparing Pole Tips Sizing the Pole Tip Remnants for Loop Tubes 36 Attaching Sweep Couplers to Sweep Tubes 37 Attaching Poles & Loop Tubes to Sweeps 38 Joining the Loop Halves Together 40 Prepare the CPVC inner-guide tube & diverter cone 41 Section 5 Final Assembly Securing the element tubes to the EHU 43 Mounting the UrbanBeam to the Tower Mast 45 Last Steps 45 Section 6 Troubleshooting Troubleshooting tips 47 Section 7 Miscellaneous Warranty 49 Contact Information 50 Page 4

5 Notes Page 5

6 Notes Page 6

7 PREAMBLE OK NOW WHAT? (Sage advice from Jim Streible, K4DLI, SK) You have ordered you SteppIR Antenna and are waiting for delivery. What do you do in the meantime? 1. Go to the SteppIR web site at and download the latest manual for your antenna, and also the Operators Manual for the controller. 2. Read the manuals from cover-to-cover ---TWICE! Don t just read them Study them, so you are familiar the terminology used about the antennas and have a good idea of how the antenna is assembled and where the various parts go. 3. As you go through the manuals make notes of any instructions you may not clearly understand, then call or for clarifications. It is better to have it all sorted out before you start assembly. We don t mind answering your questions beforehand. 4. Now, wait for notification your antenna is being shipped. Your antenna has arrived! What is the first thing to do? 1. If the antennas is to arrive on Wednesday----DO NOT plan an antenna party for Saturday! 2. Even if you plan to install the antenna weeks later, the first thing to do is to unpack the antenna and do a complete inspection. Make sure nothing is missing or has been damaged in shipment. 3. Do a complete inventory of every part, nut and bolt. Yes it takes time, but it also allows you to notify SteppIR if anything is missing and allow time to get it to you before you start assembly of the antenna. There is nothing more frustrating than realizing that something is missing, just hours before you want to install the antenna. 4. Go back to the SteppIR website and download the latest manual. SteppIR constantly is improving and adding to the manual, so even though your paper instruction manual is going to have all the data you need, it makes sense to check for the latest updates online. This is especially true if you purchased the antenna and a period of time has passed between arrival and install dates. The Manual revision is published on the front page in the lower right hand corner. 5. Take the controller and power supply out of their wrappings and connect them. The controller does not have to be connected to the antenna in order to familiarize yourself with it. In fact, it is best to get familiar with the controller when it is not connected to the antenna. Turn on the controller and read through the Operators Manual again while operating the controller in all of its modes. Go through the menus so you know what each does and how to navigate through the various menus and functions. Page 7

8 PREAMBLE OK NOW WHAT? (continued) (Sage advice from Jim Streible, K4DLI, SK) Your Antenna Has Arrived! What is the first thing to do? (continued) 6. When you have finished working with the controller, be sure the display indicates Elements Home and the controller has been turned OFF. When the controller is connected to the antenna and the controller is turned back on the next time, it will assume the antenna is extended to whatever the controller display indicates. If the antenna is in the home position the controller needs to be set to Home as well before you plug in the control cable. 7. Once the antenna is completely assembled and ready to mount on the antenna tower, use an antenna analyzer, if you have one, to test resonance of the antenna. If you don t have an analyzer, try to borrow one. It will save you a lot of time and worry. Check the antenna on each band for some sign of resonance within the frequency range. Leave the antenna on the default frequency and tune the analyzer to see where the dip occurs. It will be somewhere below the lower band edge on each band with the antenna 3 or 4 feet above the ground on saw horses. Since it is so close to the ground, don t expect to see a 1:1 SWR here, just look for a good indication of resonance, something in the range of 1.5:1 to 3:1. Once it has been determined this part of the antenna is working correctly do the following: Select the lowest band and establish the dip condition by tuning the analyzer. Do not touch the analyzer again. Retract the elements and then reselect the same band. The antenna should come back the very near the same setting. Do this 2 or 3 times on each band. Also, try going from the band being tested to any other band and back again and observe that the antenna comes back to the same SWR reading. Now you know the antenna is tuning correctly from band to band and is consistent. 8. When you are ready to use the antenna, be sure to enable all of the options you have purchased with your controller or antenna. If you purchased the serial interface option, be sure to set it up for your radio type and baud rate. When done enabling, save and then turn the controller off, and back on again. 9. Enjoy the antenna! 73 Jim Streible K4DLI Jim passed away in early 2016, but his advice has enduring value. Page 8

9 PREAMBLE UrbanBeam PARTS CHECKLIST It is important that you do an inventory of the items that were shipped to you. Nothing is worse than discovering a day before a planned installation that there are missing parts! We do our very best to ensure that you receive everything needed for construction of your antenna, but better to be safe than sorry inventory your parts well in advance of your installation. The items in blue represent options available for the UrbanBeam Yagi you will need to check these items off only if you purchased them. QTY Part # Description m passive EHU (no lid - mounting plates acts as lid) m driven element EHU (no lid, mounting plate acts as lid) 1 SDA100 Electronic controller OPTIONS FOR SDA100: Transceiver interface Remote driver board Advanced lightning protection (ALP) Tuning relay v (PN 09002) EHU Control cable wire pack consisting of: 1 Length 10 four conductor cable 1 Coax seal (used to seal the control cable in the wire trough of EHU) /4 Aluminum Boom (4 foot section) ft telescoping fiberglass pole UrbanBeam Instruction manual SDA 100 Instruction manual (MUSTANG Firmware) Quick disconnect boot 1.5" x 1.25" (connect poles to EHU) Polyolefin heat shrink (waterproof telescoping pole joints) pin D-SUB connector (only used if no D-SUB splice purchased) Backshell for 25 pin D-SUB connector OD x 18 Polyethylene sweep tube Metal loop struts (connects between adjacent sweep couplers) EHU aluminum mounting plate with foam aligning/insulating gasket SS set screw (one set screw per pair of saddles) x 8 x 0.25 Aluminum mast place (for use with aluminum saddles) CPVC Liner 40 without coupler CPVC Liner 49 with coupler Page 9

10 PREAMBLE UrbanBeam PARTS CHECKLIST (continued) ASSEMBLY KITS (a bill of materials for each kit is shown on the next page) QTY Part # Description UrbanBeam Loop Hardware kit UrbanBeam Mast Plate hardware kit Glue, tape and anti-seize kit (use anti-seize on ALL stainless fasteners!) UrbanBeam Element Hardware kit ANTENNA OPTIONS Voltage suppressor (lighting arrestor) OPTION pin voltage suppressor ( ) Connector Junction Box ( ) conductor control cable ft Page 10

11 PREAMBLE ASSEMBLY KITS - BILL OF MATERIALS UrbanBeam Loop Hardware Kit QTY PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION M Grip tape 2.3 x Nylock nut x 2 SS Pan head Phil screw 16 halves Schedule 160 Sweep Clamps Silicone wrap, blue, 0.50 x 10mil; used for 40/30 loop; 5ft roll /16 conical grinding stone (pole tip preparation) Loop Splice 5 inch Type M (.312) #10 SS Hose Clamp.312 UrbanBeam Mast Plate Hardware Kit QTY PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION x.75 Aluminum Saddle Half x.75 Aluminum Saddle Half /16 x 3.5 Hex head bolt, SS /16 x 3.75 Hex head bolt, SS /16-18 SS Nylock nut Page 11

12 PREAMBLE ASSEMBLY KITS- BILL OF MATERIALS (continued) UrbanBeam Element Hardware Kit QTY PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION EHU Housing Hardware Kit /16 Nylock nuts /16 X 3-1/2 Stainless steel hex head bolt ¾ Aluminum saddle half EHU Housing Hardware Kit QTY PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION x3/4 Stainless steel machine screw # 10 SS washer Nylock nut Glue, Tape & Anti-Seize Kit QTY PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION Glue kit PVC electrical tape Anti-Seize Diverter cone Connector Protector Page 12

13 PREAMBLE ASSEMBLY NOTES Before beginning assembly of this antenna, please read the manual in its entirety to familiarize yourself with the task at hand. Doing so will eliminate potential confusion. Be sure to do an inventory of your parts as soon as possible after receipt of the antenna, and well before your intended installation date - this way we can supply you any missing parts in adequate time. Be sure to check the insides of the aluminum tubing and the telescoping poles when unpacking your boxes. In certain situations we put items inside these pieces to reduce the amount of boxes used for shipping, which in turn reduces your shipping costs. A large, cleared flat area is recommended for assembly of an antenna of this size and complexity. Typically, an area 10 ft x 35 ft would be ideal. We recommend using sawhorses or a sturdy table when installing the boom. By having the boom elevated, it is easier to ensure that the elements are level. Rubber or nitrile gloves are recommended when applying the antiseize to the stainless steel fasteners or the aluminum boom sections. Be sure to refer to the UrbanBeam configuration drawing on the following page so that you can fully understand how the antenna operates. In addition, the configuration drawing identifies EHU placement, which is important as you progress in your installation of the antenna. If you have a flat surface that is at least 48 long, you can use it to make sure the two EHUs are in the same plane. If you do not, the use of a level for adjusting the Element Housing Units (EHUs) is highly recommended. This is a surprisingly accurate and consistent method. When all the EHU s are level, secure the boom to the sawhorses so that it cannot shift this will help considerably when you are leveling the mast plate. Be sure to use the anti-seize compound supplied to prevent the galling of the stainless steel fasteners. If you do not use the anti-seize, count on issues with the stainless steel hardware galling. Heat is one of the primary culprits with galling, so if you use a ratchet, steady speed as you tighten will help minimize galling. We have found that when the anti-seize is applied to the bolt portion of the hardware, it will eliminate any galling issues. NEVER ATTEMPT TO WIRE OR CHANGE WIRING ON THE ANTENNA WHEN THE ELECTRONIC CONTROLLER IS CONNECTED TO THE CONTROL CABLE, EVEN IF IT IS TURNED OFF. This is the number one cause of installation failures for our products. Even with power off, damage can occur. When the power is off on your controller, there is still a very small amount of power feeding to the stepper motors, to effectively lock them in place. This reduces the need for calibration of the antenna. Page 13

14 PREAMBLE A WORD ABOUT STAINLESS STEEL GALLING From time to time, we get complaints from customers regarding galling of stainless steel fasteners. Here is an excerpt from the Industrial Fastener Institute's Standards Book: Thread galling seems to be the most prevalent with fasteners made of stainless steel, aluminum, titanium and other alloys which self-generate an oxide surface film for corrosion protection. During fastener tightening, as pressure builds between the contacting and sliding thread surfaces, protective oxides are broken, possibly wiped off and interface metal high points shear or lock together. This cumulative clogging-shearing-locking action causes increasing adhesion. In the extreme, galling leads to seizing - the actual freezing together of the threads. If tightening is continued, the fastener can be twisted off or its threads ripped out. During minor galling, the fastener can still be removed, but in severe cases of galling, a strong bond between the bolt and nut can prevent removal of fasteners. Unfortunately, little is known on how to control it, but here are two ways to minimize this effect: Decreasing installation RPM speed will cause less friction and decrease heat generation. Lubrication used prior to assembly can dramatically reduce or eliminate galling. Recommended lubricants should contain higher amounts of molybdenum disulfide, such as graphite which is very commonly used as a solid lubricant or special anti-galling lubricants sold by chemical companies. We provide an anti-seize compound stick called Thread Magic (shown in picture below) with all of our antennas and strongly encourage you to use it to reduce the aggravation of galling. The Thread Magic stick is fantastic you can get plenty of anti-seize on the fastener without getting it on your hands! Contrary to popular belief, galling of stainless steel is not a symptom of a "cheap" fastener - it is prevalent in all types of stainless steel, aluminum and titanium fasteners. You can be assured that the stainless steel fasteners we provide with our products are of very high quality. Save yourself a lot of grief and always use a thread lubricant when working with stainless steel fasteners. Page 14

15 PREAMBLE ANTENNA OVERVIEW The UrbanBeam Yagi antenna uses a loop element for 30m and 40M. The loop elements used for 40m and 30m are 50% shorter than a full size dipole element, with very little sacrifice in performance (-0.6dB). The UrbanBeam is a dipole on 40m and 30m. The UrbanBeam performs as a 2 element Yagi on 20m-6m. Assembly of the UrbanBeam can be broken into phases: Prepare the Boom with EHUs, Mast Plate, and Connector Tube (or optional Connector Box) Prepare the Element Tubes & Loop Tubes Final Assembly & Testing REVERSE DIRECTION (180 deg) FORWARD DIRECTION (Normal) 20m-6m Director 40m, 20m-6m Driven Page 15

16 CHAPTER ONE SECTION 1.0 PREPARING THE BOOM ASSEMBLY Overview OVERVIEW The Boom Assembly consists of the EHUs and their mounting hardware, along with the Mast Plate and Connector box. The order of assembly is: Lay out the Boom Prepare and mount Director EHU to the boom Prepare and mount Driven EHU to the boom Mount the Mast Plate to the boom Mount the Connector tube to the Boom (or optional connector box to the Mast Plate) BOOM LAYOUT The boom for the UrbanBeam is simple. It s a 48 inch long aluminum tube that is 1.75 in diameter. Place the boom on a flat surface. Take care to make sure the surface is indeed level, otherwise the tube may roll off. EHU MOUNTING OVERVIEW Both EHUs are prepared and attached to the boom in fundamentally the same way. The control cable connector for each EHU is plugged in, and the control wire routed in a channel weatherproofed with coax seal. The EHUs are then assembled to mounting plates, which are in turn attached to opposite ends of the boom with clamps. It s important to pay attention to the orientation of the EHUs on the boom, making sure that the ESTs (where the loop elements attach) are positioned to be closest to the ends of the boom. Page 16

17 SECTION 1.0 PREPARING THE BOOM ASSEMBLY EHU Mounting Locations EHU CENTER-TO-CENTER SPACING MEASUREMENTS It is critically important that the center-to-center spacing is correct when assembling your SteppIR Yagi. Use Figure 1.00 for placement of each of the elements. Start from the left edge of the boom and measure from there. As you assemble each of the element housing units (EHU), refer to this drawing. We recommend this sequence: 1. Secure the driven and director element mounting plates to the boom using the correct saddles and fasteners (be sure to use anti-seize on all stainless steel fasteners). Tighten enough to hold them in place, but loose enough so you can move the mounting plates for final tightening. 2. Wire the EHU s and secure them to the element mounting plates (don t forget the gasket!). The mounting plate itself acts as the lid for the EHUs. 3. Measure the center-to-center lengths, level the mounting plates and firmly tighten. 4. Re-measure all of your lengths and correct if needed. Take your time, get it right. All of this is covered in greater detail in this manual, but it s important to understand the proper flow BEFORE you start it will save a lot of time. FIG A 3.5 in B C in F 3.5 in KEY Start measurement at center-point of: Finish measurement at center-point of: Measurement distance between points A Boom edge* Director EHU 3.50 inches B Director EHU Driven EHU inches C Director EHU Center of Mast Plate inches * There is no center-point measurement at the boom edge place the ruler literally on the edge of the boom Page 17

18 SECTION 1.0 PREPARING THE BOOM ASSEMBLY EHU Placement ELEMENT HOUSING UNIT (EHU) PLACEMENT The UrbanBeam Yagi has two EHUs on the boom. One is a Driven element on 40 meters through 6 meters, while the other is a Director on 20 meters through 6 meters. For the purpose of building the antenna, we refer to the elements as Director and Driven elements as shown in Figure 1.01 below. All the drawings in this manual are oriented so that you are looking inward at boom with the director to the left and the driven to the right, as shown in Figure Director EHU Driven EHU A A FIG Page 18

19 SECTION 1.1 PREPARING THE BOOM ASSEMBLY EHU Overview ELEMENT HOUSING UNIT (EHU) OVERVIEW When wiring the EHUs on the UrbanBeam Yagi, it is important to know that there are two different types of EHUs. One of the EHUs is the Driven element, and connects to the coax cable from the radio. The other EHU is the Director which has no coaxial connector. NEVER DO ANY WIRING WHEN THE ELECTRONIC CONTROLLER IS CONNECTED TO THE CONTROL CABLE. Even if the power is turned off of the controller, damage can occur. This is the number one cause of antenna installation failures, so please be sure to heed the advice. Figure 1.02 gives an overview of the inside of a SteppIR EHU. FIG Sprocket / platen assembly Element support tube (EST) EHU terminal header Serial # sticker Control cable tray for routing cable out of EHU (on edge of case) Spring reel for copper strip (20m reel is shown, 40m reel is larger) Balun (the balun is only inside EHUs that are driven elements) SO-239 connector (for driven element only) Page 19

20 SECTION 1.1 EHU WIRING PREPARING THE BOOM ASSEMBLY EHU Wiring Trim approximately 1.5 inches of the outer jacket of the control cable (4 wires). Remove the shield material, the support thread and cut the ground wire off as shown in Figure Attach electrical tape at the end of the trimmed control cable jacket so that there is no chance for a short. Remove 0.25 inches of the insulation from each of the individual 22 AWG wires, leaving bare copper. Tinning of the copper wire ends with solder is not recommended by the connector manufacturer. Figure 1.11 shows the control cable should look like when you are finished with the trimming. Dip each of the copper wires into connector protector before inserting into the terminal plug. Figure 1.12 shows what the connector protector will look like. The terminal header assembly consists of the terminal header and the terminal plug as shown in Figure The plug is shipped loosely attached to the header. Remove this plug when wiring and firmly plug back in when completed. Follow the wire sequence in Figure 1.14 for each EHU. Be careful to ensure that there are no bare wires protruding out from the terminal clamps, to avoid potential shorts. Also make sure you are clamping down on bare wire, and not the insulation of the wire The wiring sequence for each EHU is also imprinted on the PCB that the terminal header is mounted on (located inside the EHU), as shown in Figure Pay no attention to the second row of imprinted text, these pins are for use in the manufacturing of the board itself and are of no use to you. Figure 1.13 shows a blue line crossing out the text in question. The yellow circle shows the correct wiring sequence. FIG FIG FIG FIG Pin Header Wiring Sequence BLACK RED GREEN WHITE TERMINAL PLUG TERMINAL HEADER FIG Page 20

21 SECTION 1.1 PREPARING THE BOOM ASSEMBLY EHU Wiring (Continued) EHU WIRING (continued) Check to be sure the terminal plug is firmly inserted into the terminal header. Lay the control cable wire inside the wire tray of the EHU as shown in Figure This trough acts as a strain relief so that the cable will not be pulled out of the EHU. It is a good idea to leave a small amount of slack between the plug and the point which the tray starts as shown in Figure Using the coax seal and cut into 1 inch strips as shown in Figure You will need 3 strips. The remainder can be used to seal the driven element SO-239 connectors, should you wish to. Apply coax seal on top of the control cable and work it around the cable as shown in Figure This will help keep water from entering into the EHU. Apply the coax seal to the remaining areas of the wire tray as shown in Figure Repeat wiring and coax seal preparation for all EHUs. When finished, the EHUs will be secured to the aluminum element mounting plates. This is covered in detail in the next chapter. FIG FIG FIG FIG FIG Page 21

22 SECTION 1.2 PREPARING THE BOOM ASSEMBLY Director EHU DIRECTOR EHU DRAWING The parts explosion drawing in Figure 1.20 gives you an overview of the assembly of the director EHU. Detailed instructions follow. FIG B (x10) These parts are in the Element Hardware Kit Key QTY Part # Description A (x10) A #10x 3/4 Machine screw B #10 Flat washer C #10 Nylock nut D /16 x3-1/2 Hex head bolt E /16 Nylock nut F F Director EHU G Element housing gasket H Element mounting plate D D G D D J /4 Aluminum saddle half J H J E E J J E E C (x10) Page 22

23 SECTION 1.3 SECURE DIRECTOR MOUNTING PLATE AND EHU TO BOOM Refer to the center-to-center measurements in Figure 1.00 in Section 1.0 when installing each of the EHUs and mounting plates to the boom. The EHU should already be wired before placing it on the aluminum mounting plate. Position the aluminum mounting plate (PN ) and align the 1-3/4 aluminum saddle halves (PN ) as shown in Figure Insert the 5/16 x 3-1/2 hex head bolts (PN ) and thread on the 5/16 Nylock nuts (PN ). Insert a set screw on the exposed side of the aluminum saddle. Position the aluminum saddle face to be flush with the boom end, and tighten the set screw. Be sure to use anti-seize on all stainless steel fasteners. Place the EHU gasket (PN ) onto the mounting plate as shown in Figure Remove all chads from the holes for the mounting screws. Align the gasket with the holes on the mounting plate. Place the EHU (PN ) onto the mounting plate and attach it using the #10 x 3/4 machine screws (PN ), #10 flat washers (PN ) and #10 Nylock nuts (PN ) as shown in Figure Be sure that the flat washer is between the machine screw head and the EHU housing as shown in Figure Tighten the Nylock nuts enough to compress the gasket material but do not over tighten or you can crack the plastic EHU housing. It is best to tighten the screws twice, with the final tightening being the most aggressive. Let the EHU sit for a few moments in between tightening. Confirm that the distance from the edge of the boom to the center point of the element is 3.5 inches as shown in Figure (A tip use the mold spline located on the EHU housing as a place to hold your tape measure edge when measuring center-to-center as shown in Figure 1.36) Level the EHU as shown in Figure 1.37 and tighten the aluminum saddles firmly. PREPARING THE BOOM ASSEMBLY Director EHU Mounting FIG FIG FIG FIG FIG FIG FIG Page 23

24 SECTION 1.4 DRIVEN EHU DRAWING PREPARING THE BOOM ASSEMBLY Driven EHU The parts explosion drawing in Figure 1.40 gives you an overview of the assembly of the driven EHU. Detailed instructions follow. Mounting is identical to the Director assembly. These parts are in the Element Hardware Kit FIG B (x10) Key QTY Part # Description A #10x 3/4 Machine screw B #10 Flat washer C #10 Nylock nut A (x10) D /16 x3-1/2 Hex head bolt E /16 Nylock nut F Driven EHU G Element housing gasket H Element mounting plate F J /4 Aluminum saddle half D D G D D J H J E E J J E E C (x10) Page 24

25 SECTION 1.5 PREPARING THE BOOM ASSEMBLY Driven EHU Mounting SECURE DRIVEN MOUNTING PLATE AND EHU TO BOOM The Driven element is assembled in precisely the same way as the Director. We will refer to some of the pictures for the Driven element assembly. Refer to the center-to-center measurements in Figure 1.00 in Section 1.0 when installing each of the EHUs and mounting plates to the boom. The EHU should already be wired before placing it on the aluminum mounting plate. Position the aluminum mounting plate (PN ) and align the 1.75 aluminum saddle halves (PN ) flush with the tube end as shown in Figure Insert the 5/16 x 3-1/2 hex head bolts (PN ) and thread on the 5/16 Nylock nuts (PN ). Insert a set screw on the exposed side of the aluminum saddle. Tighten, but allow the mounting plate to be loose enough for adjusting the center-tocenter measurement. Be sure to use anti-seize on all stainless steel fasteners. Place the EHU gasket (PN ) onto the mounting plate as shown in Figure Remove all chads from the holes for the mounting screws. Align the gasket with the holes on the mounting plate. Place the EHU (PN ) onto the mounting plate and attach it using the #10 x 3/4 machine screws (PN ), #10 flat washers (PN ) and #10 Nylock nuts (PN ) as shown in Figure Be sure that the flat washer is between the machine screw head and the EHU housing as shown in Figure Tighten the Nylock nuts enough to compress the gasket material but do not over tighten or you can crack the plastic EHU housing. It is best to tighten the screws twice, with the final tightening being the most aggressive. Let the EHU sit for a few moments in between tightening. Verify that the center-to-center length from the Director EHU to the Driven EHU is 41.5 inches. Level the EHU as shown in figure 1.37 and tighten the aluminum saddles firmly. Figure 1.50 shows the boom with two EHUs FIG 1.50 Page 25

26 SECTION 2.0 PREPARING THE BOOM ASSEMBLY Mast Plate MAST PLATE-TO-BOOM OVERVIEW DRAWING Figure 2.00 shows an exploded drawing of the boom and mast plate assembly. This parts explosion is a useful referral tool as you complete the steps in this section. Parts for this step are included in the Mast Plate Hardware Kit. E FIG E E J G E H F Optional: Use screw I to hold 2 saddle halves to mast plate for ease of attaching antenna to mast. H H F F H F Key QTY PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION J x 8 x Aluminum mast plate Part of Mast Plate Hardware Kit H x.75 Aluminum Saddle Half x.75 Aluminum Saddle Half E /16 x 3.5 Hex head bolt, SS G /16 x 3.75 Hex head bolt, SS F /16-18 SS Nylock nut I x 5/8 SS Pan Head Screw Page 26

27 SECTION 2.1 PREPARING THE BOOM ASSEMBLY Mast Plate Attachment to Boom ATTACH THE BOOM TO THE MAST PLATE Slide the 5/16 x 3.50 hex head bolts (PN ) into the mast plate, and place the first half of the 1.75 inch aluminum saddles (PN ) onto the bolts as shown in Figure Place the boom in the saddles as shown in Figure 2.11, and attach the other half of the 1.75 aluminum saddles. Apply anti-seize to the bolts and thread on the 5/16 Nylock nuts (PN ). Tighten the nuts until the boom is snug, but you can still rotate it. Use a short level to level the boom to the mast plate (The EHU plate must be level also or this won t work). When the mast plate is level with the boom, tighten all of the saddle nuts firmly. Don t forget to install the set screws in the saddles as shown in Figure Only the exposed half of the saddles will require a set screw. Use the x 5/16 SS panhead screws to hold the 2 mast saddle halves in place on the mast plate, as in Figure and temporarily use the 5/16 x 3.75 bolts and nuts to hold the mast saddle clamp. Figure 2.15 shows the completed assembly x 5/16 SS panhead (makes attaching antenna to the mast much easier) FIG FIG FIG FIG FIG FIG Assembly of the Boom/Mastplate is now complete. Page 27

28 SECTION 2.2 PREPARING THE BOOM ASSEMBLY TERMINAL HOUSING MOUNTING THE TERMINAL HOUSING Mounting of the Terminal Housing, and taping of the coax and control cables to the boom should be one of the last items done before mounting the UrbanBeam onto the mast. Note: If You purchased the optional Connector Junction Box for your antenna, the terminal housing kit will not be included. Refer to the separate connector junction box instruction manual for installation. The terminal housing can be installed anywhere that it fits along the boom, or even on the mast above or below the antenna. For the UrbanBeam, the two locations where it fits are under the EHUs. We suggest mounting the Terminal Housing under the Director EHU. Wherever it is mounted, the hose clamp is used to go around the Terminal Housing and the location where it is mounted. Regardless of the mounting orientation, make sure that the hole in the end cap of the terminal housing will be facing downward when the antenna is mounted to the mast. This will allow the housing to drain and prevent water from collecting inside the housing. DO NOT SEAL THE TERMINAL HOUSING. IT SHOULD BE ABLE TO BREATHE OUT OF THE BOTTOM DRAIN HOLE. A View from above antenna looking down saddles 2 saddles Key QTY PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION A Terminal Housing (Connector Tube) SS Hose Clamp Page 28

29 SECTION 3.0 CONTROL CABLE TO D-SUB FIELD SPLICE CONNECTING CONTROL CABLE TO OPTIONAL D-SUB FIELD SPLICE The DB25 control cable splice allows for much more convenient connection of control cable to the SteppIR controller. By utilizing this connector splice, there is no need to cut the DB25 connector off and re-solder when running cable through conduit. In addition, now you can purchase custom cable lengths to within 1 foot of your desired length, eliminating potential for excess cable. To install the DB25 control cable splice, follow these instructions: 1. Locate the parts needed for installation shown in Figure Strip the grey jacket and aluminum shielding off of the control cable as shown in Figure 3.01, approximately 2.75 from end of control cable, being careful not to damage the individual wires. Strip the plastic insulation off of each of the control cable wires, approximately 0.25 in length should be bare wire. It helps to twist each of the stranded wires, to aid in the placing of the wire into the terminal headers. Tinning the wires also works well. 3. Connect each wire to the appropriate terminal as shown in Figure Consult Figure 3.11 for the correct wiring sequence. Insert the two stainless steel screws into the circuit board. Slide the two plastic spacers onto the screws. 4. Insert the first half of the strain relief clamp onto the two screws (half-round cutout facing upward) on the two screws as shown in Figure Be careful not to pull the wires out of the terminal headers as you push the strain relief clamp downward. 5. Insert the second half of the strain relief clamp onto the two screws (half-round cutout facing downward as shown in Figure Position the control cable in between the two halves of the strain relief clamp, be sure that the jacketing of the cable is in between the clamps. Using the nuts, tighten down until the cable is nice and snug, but do not over-tighten. 6. Plug the DB25 splice into the back of the controller and tighten the jack screws to secure the DB25 to the controller housing, as shown in Figure While it is not required, you may optionally use silicone wrap to cover the wiring, as shown in Figure FIG FIG FIG FIG FIG FIG FIG Page 29

30 SECTION 3.1 PREPARING THE BOOM ASSEMBLY WIRING EHUS TO CONTROL CABLE WIRING EHUs TO CONTROL CABLE NOTE: If you have purchased the connector junction box option, use the manual provided with that option for wiring, as it is different than these instructions for the terminal housing kit Make sure you know where the Terminal Housing will be located, and ensure that EHU control cables can be routed along the boom to get to the Terminal Housing without strain or being pinched. Route and tape the control cables to the boom in a way that will avoid damage to the cables in the event the antenna is resting on the ground, could be scraped against the mast during installation, etc. Be especially careful around the saddle clamps and sharp corners. Apply a thin coat of connector protector to each of the four exposed EHU wires. Follow Figure 3.11 for the correct wiring. Note that the shield wires are all connected together as one single wire and use a single position terminal strip separate from the other terminal blocks. Be careful not to over-tighten the screws on the terminal blocks. Perform all of the WIRING AND MECHANICAL EHU (next page) tests on the antenna to ensure wiring is correct, then complete the following steps just before the antenna goes on the tower: Fit the terminal strip into the terminal housing that has been mounted to the boom or mast. Make a couple of wraps of electrical tape around the control cable bundle where it will pass through the notch in the threaded plug. This will help to protect the cable insulation from the threads in the plastic tube. Guide the control cable into the drain hole on the black screw on cap Tighten the cap into the terminal housing by rotating the tube, being CAREFUL to not cut or damage the control cable as you tighten the terminal housing cap. Page 30

31 SECTION 3.1 Figure 3.10 Driven EHU Director EHU Drain Wires from each element Black Red Green White Black Red Green White not used Terminal Block 2 Terminal Block 1 Black Brown Red Orange Yellow Green Blue Violet Grey White Pink Cream PREPARING THE BOOM ASSEMBLY WIRING EHUS TO CONTROL CABLE 12 conductor cable Male 25-pin D-sub Antenna Controller Shield (drain wire) Figure 3.11 Preliminary WIRING AND MECHANICAL EHU Testing Refer to the SDA100 manual for conducting the preliminary testing for the EHUs NOTE: The wiring test is done to ensure that the wiring of the EHUs is done correctly. It is critical that the wiring be as shown in Figure Incorrect wiring can potentially damage the antenna or antenna controller, in addition to causing poor performance. Once all of the EHUs are correctly wired and each EHU is being properly controlled by the SDA100, the initial testing is completed. Page 31

32 SECTION 3.2 WIRING TEST WIRING TEST Read the SDA-100 Operators Manual so that you are familiar with operation of the controller. At this time the controller should NOT be connected to your radio or computer. Also, the fiberglass poles and loop elements should not be installed on the antenna. 1. With the control cable NOT CONNECTED to the controller, turn the controller on. It should read Manual Mode Elements Home. If not, push the Retract button. After the controller is finished tuning it will turn off. You will need to turn the controller back on. The controller will now read Manual Mode Elements Home. 2. The next step is to test that each of the elements will extend their copper tapes out properly. 3. ENSURE THAT ALL THE ELEMENTS ARE CLEAR OF ANY OBSTRUCTIONS. The copper tape will be extended out from both sides of each EHU for approximately 6 inches. 4. Go into Setup mode and select Test Motors. Wait until the retracting element message goes away. 5. Now CONNECT the control cable to the controller. 6. The Test Motors mode allows the user to extend the copper tape on each element just past the EHU tube by pressing the appropriate buttons on the SDA100. The display should look like this: Test Motors Ref Out/In Cycle The fine up/down buttons select which element will be moved. The coarse up/down buttons allow you to manually move the element in to home or out to inspect. The band button allows a complete cycle, out, then in to home, with one keystroke. The purpose of this test is threefold: It determines that you have the right control cable wires connected to the correct EHU (i.e. the Driven control wires are moving the Driven element). It indicates that the motors are running in the right direction Out makes the tape move out. If any of the four motor wires are swapped, the motor will run backwards, so instead of extending the tape, you will hear a clattering sound as the motor pulls the tape in instead of out. It proves the controller and driver chips are functioning as intended. If any element fails this test, you have probably made a wiring error. Also, be aware that shorting any of the control cable wires together while the control cable is connected to the controller and the DC supply to the controller is energized (EVEN IF POWER IS OFF ON THE CONTROLLER) can result in blown driver chips. Check and correct any wiring errors and repeat the Test Motors procedure. To Perform the Test Motors Procedure Select the desired element using the Fine up/down buttons. Press the Coarse up button and the selected element will extend. Pressing the Coarse down button will retract the element and the display will read All Elements In (when any test is ended with the down button, all elements are brought in, so you can t inadvertently leave the elements out) Verify that each element works correctly and then unplug the controller s power supply before disconnecting the control cable. FIG Page 32

33 SECTION 4.0 TELESCOPING POLE PREPARATION PREPARE THE TELESCOPING POLES AND LOOP TUBES Overview As shipped, the telescoping poles are at least 212 when extended but must be sized to 170 for each element, and the remnant cut-off pieces are used to complete the loop element. Sweeps and sweep couplers are used to join the elements to the polyethylene 18 sweeps. The Driven and Driver element loop tubes are joined together with 5 long fiberglass tube loop couplers. Preparing the telescoping pole tips Extend the telescoping poles to full length by firmly locking each section of the pole in place. A good methodology is to position each half of the joint so that they are several inches apart (while still within each other), and then pull quickly and firmly. Do this for each pole. There are rubber plugs inside the base section of each telescoping pole. These make it easier for handling, but they MUST be removed before measuring the pole lengths. They also need to be removed permanently when attaching the poles to the EHU s. With poles fully extended and as firmly locked into the extended position as possible, trim the end of the tip element of each pole so that the pole is 170 inches (431.8 cm) from the tip of the pole to the butt end, as shown in Figure Use a hack saw or similar cutting blade that is suitable for fiberglass. Circular pipe cutters used by plumbers work well too. Set aside the cut-off piece, as it will be used in Section 4.1. Using the included conical drill bit, chamfer the ends of the poles as shown in Figure The drawing in Figure 4.03 shows the proper depth to chamfer to. Be sure to clean out the interior of the fiberglass poles before continuing. Debris inside the telescoping poles can lead to failure of the EHU. Secure polyolefin heat shrink to the telescoping pole joints On all the telescoping fiberglass elements we now include double wall polyolefin heat shrink (PN 03630). Each telescoping pole uses 3 of the polyolefin heat shrink pieces,. Once finished, the seal is secure and waterproof. This product requires a heat gun for activation of the adhesive. Do not attempt to use a hair dryer for this task. When positioning the heat shrink, place it so that the joint of the telescoping pole is centered in the middle of the heat shrink. Figures 4.04, 4.05, 4.06 and 4.07 below show how this is done. Using a heat gun (hair dryers will NOT work), apply heat evenly around the entire area of heat shrink. Note: There are 4 blue colored lines imprinted on the tubing. The joint is considered done being heated and waterproof when the lines change color. Each line needs to change in color to ensure even adhesion temperatures have been reached. FIG TRIM THE TIP OF EACH POLE FOR AN OVERALL LENGTH OF INCHES FIG FIG FIG FIG FIG FIG Page 33

34 SECTION 4.0 TELESCOPING POLE PREPARATION (continued) PREPARE THE TELESCOPING POLES (continued) Preparing the pole tips for insertion into the sweep couplers Prepare each of the telescoping poles as shown in Figure 4.08 for insertion into the plastic sweeps and sweep couplers. Secure 10 wraps of electrical tape 1.70 inches from the tip, as shown in Figure 4.08, Step 1 and step 2. This is used as a measuring stop to be certain you insert the pole in the proper depth. It is important to NEATLY wrap the electrical tape so it has a clean edge. Cut a 4 inch piece of blue silicone wrap off of the included roll. Wrap the silicone tape around the pole. Try to make the silicone tape wrap so that it is flush with the electrical tape as shown in Figure 4.08, Step 3. You should use enough tension to wrap 2 1/2 turns around the pole. The first layer is only stretched slightly (Figure 4.09A), with the last 1 1/2 turns pulling the tape a little harder so it makes it to 2 1/2 turns (Figure 4.09B). This isn t very critical, but it s better to not stretch it too tight and thin. Try to keep the edges as even as possible. Apply pressure to the wraps with your fingers for a few seconds when you are done to ensure adhesion. Wrap the included 3M grip tape around the pole, flush with the edge as shown in Figure 4.08, Step 4. Be sure there is no overlap of the grip tape it should be fine from the factory but the OD of poles varies slightly, so if there is overlap, make sure you trim the tape so there is a gap, as shown in Figure 4.08, Step 4. Figure 4.09C shows the completed tip. FIG GAP Page 34

35 SECTION 4.0 TELESCOPING POLE PREPARATION (continued) PREPARE THE TELESCOPING POLES FOR SWEEPS (continued) FIG. 4.09A FIG. 4.09B FIG. 4.09C Page 35

36 SECTION 4.1 LOOP TUBE PREPARATION SIZING THE POLE TIP REMNANT FOR LOOP TUBES Preparing the telescoping pole tips for the loop elements The remaining piece of cut-off pole tip from the previous step will be used to complete the loop, but first it must be cut to the proper length. The cut that was made to make the telescoping pole measure 170 is called cut 1. The next cut must be made on the same end of the pole remnant. This will be called cut 2. The reason is these pole sections are tapered and we want to have the thickest end go into the Loop Splice because it makes a better fit. Figure 4.10 is the diagram of the pole trip remnant, showing overall size, differences between the thin and thick end, and preparations of the ends. Cut the pole remnant to 41.5, cutting off material from the thicker end. This is cut 2. See Figure Chamfer both ends of the tube using the supplied chamfering bit. Prepare the thinnest end in the same way the telescoping pole tips were prepared in Section 4.0 with electrical tape, silicone tape, and grip tape. On the thicker end, use grip tape spaced 1 from the end. Repeat this procedure for all four pole tip remnants. chamfer Figure 4.10 cut 2 grip tape blue silicone electrical tape chamfer 1.0 Tube piece left over from Telescoping Tube Preparation Section thickest end thinnest end Figure 4.11 Figure 4.13 Cut 1 Figure 4.12 Page 36

37 SECTION 4.2 LOOP PREPARATION ATTACH THE SWEEP COUPLERS TO THE SWEEP TUBES Attach the sweep couplers to the plastic sweep tubes Each of the sweep coupler halves will have a notch in the mold on one side. It is critical that these notches are pointing towards the sweeps or they will not work properly. See Figure 4.20 for the location of the mark. Be certain that each half of the coupler has the mark facing the sweep tube! Insert the four #6 x 2 screws. Place the screws so that the threaded portion of the screw is facing downward. Apply anti-seize to the threads and place the Nylock nuts on. Tighten so the polyethylene tube just slides into the clamp, without the clamp falling off as showin in Figure Do not tighten enough to deform the polyethylene. Repeat for other side of sweep tube. Attach a coupler as shown in Figure 4.21 to one of the four 170 telescoping pole tips that has been prepared previously (see Section 4.0). For aesthetic reasons it is nice to have all of the screws in the sweeps and metal brace be oriented the same. To do this, make two of the sweeps turn one way and two the opposite way. One of each type is shown in Figure Be careful not to displace the blue silicone wrap when placing the coupler onto the pole tip. Slide the coupler on until the coupler hits the black electrical tape edge marking 1.70 inches from the pole tip. It is acceptable for a small amount of blue silicone wrap to protrude from the joint as shown in Figure FIG FIG Mark on sweep coupler FIG FIG Sweep tubing Page 37

38 SECTION 4.3 LOOP PREPARATION (continued) ATTACH THE FIBERGLASS TELESCOPING POLES TO THE SWEEPS Connecting the telescoping poles to the plastic sweeps Begin tightening the four screws on the outside corners of the plastic coupler. Tighten evenly, using an X type pattern as shown in Figure If you do not tighten evenly, you could potentially break the fastener. Tighten the 4 screws only until the gap between coupler halves is about see Figure It is best to let the screws sit for a while and tighten in intervals in order to allow the plastic sweep material to reform. This also will reduce the chance of damaging the clamps or snapping a screw. All six screws will be tightened when the cross brace is installed. The 18 polyethylene sweeps have a natural bend from the manufacturing process. Orient the curve of the sweep to take advantage of this bend to make putting on the aluminum brace much easier. FIG FIG FIG Installing the Loop Tubes Slide the TIP end of Loop Tube has been cut to 41.5 and prepped per Section XX. Repeat the steps in section 6.2 to tighten the x 2 screws. Installing the Metal Loop Brace Figure 4.39 shows a completed sweep assembly. To install the Loop Brace, use two 6-32 x 2 machine screws as shown in Figure 4.35 on the sweep clamp for the 170 pole side. Tighten to match the four previously installed screws so the gap between the clamp halves is fairly even. In the coupler on the other end of the sweep, start two 6-32x2 screws as shown in Figure The inside screw should protrude about 1/4. Grabbing both the 170 pole and pole tip as shown in Figure 4.37, bend the sweep until the Loop Brace can be pushed down over the protruding screw. Screw the two brace mounting screws and they will thread up into the Brace and finally clear the Brace allowing the nuts to be put on. You can use a clamp or locking plier to seat the Brace as shown in Figure Tighten all six screws taking care to do it evenly. Don t be too conservative, these screws should be tight. Stop tightening the screws before the screw heads start deforming the plastic coupler stop. Page 38

39 SECTION 4.3 LOOP PREPARATION (continued) ATTACH THE TELESCOPING POLES TO THE SWEEPS (CONT D) FIG FIG FIG FIG FIG Page 39

40 SECTION 4.3 LOOP PREPARATION (continued) JOINING THE LOOP HALVES TOGETHER Select two loop halves that sweep in opposite directions as shown in Figure 4.13 and connect them together using the parts shown in Figure (these parts are in the Loop Hardware Kit ). Slide the 5 Loop Splice tube ( ) onto one of the pole tips with the.25 drain hole on the Splice facing down to where the ground will be until the pole tip is at the edge of the.25 drain hole as shown in Figure Now position the edge of a hose clamp 3/4 from the edge of the Loop Splice and tighten it. Slide the remaining two hose clamps onto the Splice, the outer one will be positioned and tightened first with the middle one left loose as shown in Figure It is recommended that you put a #2 Philips screwdriver (the shaft should be.25 diameter) into the drain hole and slide the other pole tip into the Splice until it hits the screwdriver shaft, keep pressure on the loose pole tip while you position and tighten the other outside hose clamp as you did on the other side of the Splice. Be careful not to damage the 3M Grip tape already in place on the pole tips. If necessary spread the slit in the Loop Splice slightly if the fit is so tight it won t slide onto the pole tip. Don t spread it so aggressively as it breaks! The last step is to position the third hose clamp so it covers the.25 drain hole and tighten it as shown in Figure Make sure you position the host clamp so the slots in the metal band of the clamp acts as a screen that allows water out, but no bugs in! Now check that each of the three clamps are tight, be careful, small hose clamps can easily be tightened to the point that they strip, use common sense to get them snug but don t overdo it. You should not be able to cause the Splice to spin or pull out with your hands. The completed loop is shown in Figure Repeat this procedure for the other Loop Half. Figure Figure Figure drain hole (must face the ground for water drainage) pole tip 3/4 (.75 ) 3/4 (.75 ) 3/4 (.75 ) Figure Figure Page 40

41 SECTION 4.4 ATTACH THE ELEMENTS TO THE EHUs PREPARE THE CPVC INNER-GUIDE TUBE & DIVERTER CONE The loops on the URBANBEAM Yagi use a plastic tube and a diverter cone located inside the telescoping pole, to guide the copper strip out of the EHU. The plastic tube is off-white and is made of CPVC. There are 3 pieces that make up the guide tube assembly: The diverter cone (PN ), the 39-7/8 section of 3/4 CPVC with no coupler (PN ) and the 49 section of 3/4 CPVC with a coupler attached to one end (PN ). This guide tube is only required for Driven element EHU tubes. The guide tube is not needed on the Director side of the loop. Figure 4.41 shows the three pieces in the assembly. The smaller diameter end of the diverter cone is glued to one end of the 39-7/8 CPVC tube as shown in Figure Use the supplied glue and applicator as shown in Figure Apply the glue evenly around the outside diameter of the tube as shown in Figure Be sure you get even coverage all the way around the tube. Cover about 3/4 of an inch deep as shown in Figure Firmly push the 39-7/8 CPVC tube into the diverter cone end as shown in Figure Let the glue dry at least 20 minutes before moving it. Apply glue evenly around the outside diameter of the 39-7/8 CPVC tube as shown in Figure Apply approximately 3/4 deep as per prior step. Locate the 49 CPVC tube (PN ) with coupler, as shown in Figure Push the 39-7/8 tube firmly into the coupler as shown in Figure Repeat above instructions for remaining guide tube assembly (two per Driven EHU only). WARNING: Do not apply glue to the inner female portion of either the diverter cone or coupler. The glue applied to the outside of the tube is sufficient to bond the two pieces, and will prevent potential for damaging obstructions being formed by dried glue. Diverter Cone PN /8 CPVC PN FIG CPVC PN NO GLUE Apply glue ONLY on the outside diameter of the ends of the 39-7/8 pipe NO GLUE NEVER use glue on the inside female portion of the diverter cone or coupler FIG FIG FIG /4 FIG FIG FIG Page 41

42 SECTION 4.5 FINAL ASSEMBLY FINAL ASSEMBLY When the CPVC inner guide tubes are completed, they will need to be inserted into the telescoping poles and secured to the Driven EHU. Figure 4.60 below gives an overview of this procedure, with detailed instructions following on the next page. Page 42

43 SECTION 4.6 ATTACH THE ELEMENTS TO THE EHUs (continued) SECURING THE ELEMENTS TO THE EHU When the CPVC inner guide tubes are completed, they will need to be inserted into the telescoping poles and secured to the Driven EHU. Figure 4.60 below gives an overview of this procedure, with detailed instructions following on the next page. This drawing shows the EHU placement for the Driven element, the procedure is the same for the Director element, except the Director does NOT have the guide tubes. The parts required in the table below are shown for the Driven EHU assembly. FIG B Quick disconnect boot Driven EHU A C Molded ring prevents the pole from sliding out from under the quick disconnect boots even in very high winds. C B A Key QTY Part # Description A Quick disconnect boot B Telescoping pole C 2 NA Inner guide tube assembly consisting of diverter cone, 39-7/8 and 49 CPVC Plastic tube, glued together. (NOT USED FOR THE DIRECTOR) Page 43

44 SECTION 4.6 ATTACH THE ELEMENTS TO THE EHUs (continued) SECURING THE ELEMENTS TO THE EHU (continued) When attaching the telescoping fiberglass poles to each of the EHUs, special care must be taken to ensure that the rubber plugs that are in the base section of each pole are removed before placing the telescoping poles onto the EHU. Failure to remove these plugs will result in catastrophic failure of the EHU. Figure 4.61 shows how the plug is in place for shipping purposes. The URBANBEAM two elements join together to form one large loop. These elements were prepared earlier in Section 4 and should look like the ones shown in Figure Be sure to put your quick disconnect boot (PN ) onto the pole before inserting into the EHU. The CPVC inner guide tube is inserted into the Driven EHU side of the loop assembly as shown in Figure Insert the guide tube so that the edge of the diverter cone is flush with the base of the telescoping pole as shown in Figure Position a loop to be installed and orient it so the drain hole in the Loop Splice will be facing down to the ground when the antenna is installed. Slide either telescoping pole into the appropriate EHU (remember that only the poles going into the Driven EHU have the CPVC guide tubes inside of them) until it bottoms out firmly (in very rare cases the pole butt may need sanding to allow it to slide freely). There may be a small portion of unpainted fiberglass pole protruding as shown in Figure 4.65, this is normal, just make sure it is bottoming out on the diverter that is inside the EST tube. The unpainted part of the pole will be protected from the sun by the quick disconnect boot. Put a quick disconnect boot on the other loop pole and place the pole on top of the EHU box so that it hits the round protrusion as shown in Figure 4.63 (it will stay there pretty well but you may want someone to hold it if possible as you perform the next step) then take a rope or cord and pull the two poles together until the butt ends of each are fairly close to parallel, then tie it off. This allows easy insertion of the remaining pole into the appropriate EHU. Once both poles are properly inserted as shown in Figure 4.64 you can remove the rope. Before tightening the quick disconnect boots, twist the base sections of the telescoping poles until the loop portion of the element is as level as possible. Tighten the quick disconnect boots firmly. Wait 20 minutes and tighten again the flexible material will tend to cold flow initially. It is also a good idea to do a final tightening of all the quick disconnect boots and all fasteners as a last step before mounting the antenna onto the mast. FIG FIG FIG FIG FIG Page 44

45 SECTION 5.0 SECURE CABLES & MOUNT URBANBEAM ON TOWER MOUNT THE URBANBEAM ONTO THE TOWER MAST There are many different methods and mechanisms that are used in the course of attaching an antenna to it s final resting spot. The most common method by far for a Yagi antenna is to mount it on a tower, with a mast fixed in place at the top of the tower. That is the assumption with these instructions. In a best case scenario in terms of ease of access, the antenna is being mounted on a tilt-over, crank-up tower or a crankup tower that nests at the fairly traditional 21 ft. A Yagi often times is mounted at the top of a fixed-tower, high up in the air, where someone is strapped to the tower awaiting the antenna by means of gin-pole and transmission line or a crane/bucket lift. With this in mind, the mast plate is set up on the URBANBEAM so that the mating process from mast plate to tower mast is made as easy as possible. The tower mast connection uses two sets of aluminum saddles to attach the antenna to the tower mast as shown in figure In most cases the tower mast is 2 inches in diameter, but occasionally the mast size may be different, depending on the customers situation. SteppIR offers saddle sizes in 1-3/4, 2, 2-1/4, 2-1/2 and 3. Since the vast majority of installations of the URBANBEAM comes with the standard 2 inch saddles, that is the verbiage used in the instructions that follow. The 2 inch aluminum saddle halves (PN ) are held in place using 5/16 x 3-3/4 hex head bolts (PN ) and 5/16 Nylock nuts (PN ) as shown in figure The first half of the aluminum saddles rest against the mast plate and are held firmly to the mast plate using #10 x 5/8 machine screws, which insert through the mast plate and thread into the portion of the aluminum saddle normally reserved for the set screw. When connecting the saddle halves to the machine screws, be sure that the bolt holes line up perfectly. This will be of critical importance when the antenna is connected to the tower mast. FIG Key QTY Part # Description A #10x 5/8 Machine screw B /16 x 3-3/4 Hex head bolt C Aluminum saddle half D Nylock nut Page 45