Cathy and Phil Cobbin's RV7A Project 2003 Photo Log

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1 Cathy and Phil Cobbin's RV7A Project 2003 Photo Log 1 of 60

2 Arrival of the empennage kit 2 of 60

3 Cleco horizontal stabilizer rear spar together to file/fit the radius to clear the web radius. 3 of 60

4 Drill the rear spar reinforcing bars to the spar(s), as well as the brackets and bearing 4 of 60

5 Cleco and drill the reinforcing angles to the front spar(s). Used mechanical filer to trim ends of reinforcing angles. 5 of 60

6 Rivet the hinge bearing. Our first riveting excursion. Filing the ends of the reinforcing angles. Setup for bending the reinforcing angles using bars I had in the shop with radiu on edges that match the reinforcing angle web radius. Made up a simple 6 degree template and used a mill vise and the steel bars to bend the angle with a hammer and an oak stick. Trim the front spar(s) per plan, and bend the ends using an improvised jig made from wood. Trial fit of horizontal stabilizer skeleton. 6 of 60

7 Notch hs 404 ribs per plan, drilled the corners first so as to avoid a stress riser. Preliminary fitting of the skins to the skeleton. 7 of 60

8 From preliminary fit up of skin, spotted potential to screw things up on drilling the skin to the spar: insufficient edge spacing. Drew line on spar so we would be able to spot before drilling to make sure skin/skeleton fit was correct with respect to edge clearances on rivet holes. Drilled skins and inboard ribs. This required a lot of wrestling with alligator type side clamps to make sure the parts were in proper alignment before drilling. Took two of us over an hour to work out the fit/drilling 8 of 60

9 Rig drill press into room. Finish drilling skins/ribs for horizontal stabilizer 9 of 60

10 Begin fabrication of dimpling press. Welding and drilling the head onto a piece of 2x2 square pipe (¼ wall thickness) Fabricate industrial strength dimpling press. The two collumn design is very rigid and this dimpler has ample throat capacity and clearance underneath via a tapered back front end to allow getting the dimpling dies into position for the leading edge holes. 10 of 60

11 Drilling outboard rib/skins, finished drilling skin/spars, dissassemble horizontal stabilizer and inspect parts. 11 of 60

12 Didn't like the hand filed edges on the reinforcing bars, so I milled a radius onto one of the edges using an corner rounding end mill, then hand filed and scotchbrited the bars to remove tool marks. Dimple small parts for the horizontal stabilizer. Begin preping skins, pulled blue material back using a soldering iron to score the material without marring the sheet. 12 of 60

13 Dimple horizontal stabilizer skins on dimpling press and file/finish edges of the skins to remove shear marks. Prime horizontal stabilizer parts 13 of 60

14 Drill lightening holes in vertical stabilizer spar reinforcing plate. Cleaco and drill the spar/reinforcing plate for vertical stabilizer. Cleco the vertical stabilizer skeleton and skins together to preview the work required. Drilling 14 of 60

15 Drum sand the reinforcing plate to remove tool marks from drilling the lightening holes, Debur and dimple the vertical stabilizer parts including counter sinking the reinforcing plate to match the spar. Trim the blue material from the skin in preparation for deburing the holes and filing the sheet edges. The outboard most rib could not be dimpled on the leading edge...ordered a vise grip type dimpler to do the job. 15 of 60

16 Filing the edges of the vertical stabilizer skin, Dimpling the same on the dimpling press. 16 of 60

17 preview fit up of rudder, snipping of horn brace, and layout and cutting of stiffeners. 17 of 60

18 Edge filing and scotchbriting of rudder stiffeners. Drilling stiffeners to rudder skins. 18 of 60

19 Deburing stiffeners, dimpling rudder skins on dimpling press. Dimple spars etc. for rudder. Dimple LE of outboard horizontal stabilizer with plyers. 19 of 60

20 Cleaned up a steel plate in the shop and deburred it for use a back riveting plate. Test piece back riveting of material same thickness as skin and scrap section of stiffener material. A back rivet tool did not fit well against the stiffeners, so I used a simple rivet tool with no attachment. Prime rudder skins and h.s. rib 20 of 60

21 Back rivet stiffeners to rudder skins. 21 of 60

22 Rivet rear and front spar for horizontal stabilizer. Used a bucking bar as the usairtool squezzer is to difficult. Slipped on a couple heads and drilled the rivets out and reset them. Improvised horns with a hole in them to make a ridget support when punching out a rivet. In one case used a scrap M16 barrel. 22 of 60

23 Rivet the forward spar and ribs per van's proceedure. Rivet the middle rib in place following Van's procedure...it works. Buck and squeze rivets to finish the horizontal stabilizer. 23 of 60

24 Cleco and drill the rudder. 24 of 60

25 cleco and drill the rudder 25 of 60

26 Debure, dimple and prep rudder parts for priming. 26 of 60

27 Prep rudder skins: strip blue material, and debur holes; Countersink the holes on the trailing edge extrusion. 27 of 60

28 fabricate dimpling punch and die to do the countersink for the lead weight on the rudder. Tab parts for priming and prime. 28 of 60

29 Rivet vertical stabilizer spar using the new avery squezzer. Quality of "grunted" 1/8 rivets improved markedly when I when to set up using vise to hold squezer so I could apply body weight rather than pressing across chest muscles...hard on heart...rivet vertical stabilizer skin onto skeleton and close up with rear spar rivetting. 29 of 60

30 Riveting rudder skeleton. Riveting counterweight area skin on and install counterweitht for rudder. Spotted some nasty sequencing issues associated with riveting horn brace. 30 of 60

31 Fabricate screw press for squezer to address horn brace riveting issues. Rivet the horn brace into place, the 1/8 rivets, using screw press. Initial 6/9 rivets to attach rudder skins to skeleton per vans manual 31 of 60

32 Riveting rudder skins to skeleton. Rolling the leading edge, used ½ chrome tube, and painters masking tape. 32 of 60

33 Riveting details on rudder. Cleaco and drill rolled leading edge, uncleco and debur, then use tape to work the edges back into position, cleco, then blind rivet to finish. There were some edge rivets I didn't like the squezing setting I used, so it was an opportunity one last time to touch the spar/skin rivets with a squezzer one last time before we installed the blind rivets on the rolled leading edge. Preview skeleton of horizontal stabilizer. 33 of 60

34 Fabricate break from 2x8's for use later on bending trailing edges. Layout ALL of the stiffeners for both the left and right elevator, Cut stifferners, file edges and scotchbrite the stiffeners. Drill stiffeners to both left and right elevator skins. Drill the elevator trim access plate with the left skin 34 of 60

35 Debur holes for elevator stiffeners, file edges on left elevator sheet, debure holes in same, trim blue sheet, debur the trim access plate holes. 35 of 60

36 File edges on right elevator skin, debure holes, trim blue material. 36 of 60

37 Debur and prime elevator skins & stiffeners. 37 of 60

38 Back rivet stiffeners to elevator skins, rivet trim cable plate, bend trailing edges with wooden brake. 38 of 60

39 Fix bow in elevator end ribs (looks like lack of proper pressure pad/plate when formed at factory), cleco and drill elevator assembly (right), check flatness/radius of trailing edge, (used steel brake to finish radius), dimpling for ribs and counterweight 39 of 60

40 fit and drill lead counterweights for elevator. Cleco assemblies and check fits on lead weights. 40 of 60

41 41 of 60

42 Dimpling (press) elevator skins, break trailing edge or trim tab and cleco together to check fits. 42 of 60

43 Test bends to work out mfg procedure for bending the trim tab. Very tricky, next time make up metal tooling to hold material in position! Cleco trim tab together including hinge and trial fit on elevator, note straightness on photo+ 43 of 60

44 Primer elevator skins, stiffeners, ribs etc. Takes a while to label each piece when you have to track locations! 44 of 60

45 Riveting elevator skeleton, used squezzer mounted on vise to effectively use body weight to squeze the #4 rivets. If you do this by hand the shop heads never come out quite right. Begin riveting the elevator skins, oops forgot to mill the weight. Milled weight, rivet right elevator with exception of rounding of leading edge. 45 of 60

46 Riveting elevator for left side, complete up to rounding of leading edge. 46 of 60

47 Receipt of wing kit, unloaded with tractor and George Shadowens helped to get the boxes into the house, Cathy inventoried the kit. Took a couple tries to figure out where to squirrel everything away to. The big box went to the back of the dining room and the spar box went to the hallway leading to our bedroom. 47 of 60

48 Trim tab riveting (tricky), did my tape and pipe routine to form the radius on the front of the elevator surface and pop riveted them. Inspected the beautiful annodized main spars. 48 of 60

49 Fabricated dimpling die to use for the dimpling the screw holes for the fual tanks. 49 of 60

50 Counter sinking the main spars for the fual tank and access panel platenuts. Problems with chatter, for lack of a proper pilot. Clamped the counter sink cage to spar. If I had it to do over again I think I would make a pilot block with two pins to fit in the rivet holes so you could hold the pilot block in place and run the countersink cage unit. I left the countersinks undersized for later clean up. 50 of 60

51 Countersinking the spar, and mfg of a dimpling die for the access panel platenut. 51 of 60

52 Milling, lathe work and drilling/clecoing the tie down assemblies. 52 of 60

53 Deburing and marking tie down assemblies, Start work on part prep (deburing) on rear spar. 53 of 60

54 Cleco'd the rear spar parts that fit to fusalage all together and rotated mill vise 4 degrees. Then it's a simple cnc program to mill the two required surfaces (AND) the mill the nice radius in the corner. Parts for both wings were milled as a unit. Filing the rear spar reinforcing forks to remove shear marks. Cathy drilling the rear spar reinforcing fork et al to the rear spar. 54 of 60

55 Deburing rear spar holes, drill and debur reinforcing plates. Prep parts for priming, Primed the main spars (spot priming countersink machining) and rear spar and related parts. 55 of 60

56 Riveting reinforcing plates onto rear spars. Squeezed using my vise trick to allow use of body weight to squeze the #4 rivets. Backrivet platenuts for tie down assemblies. Hand squezzed platenut rivets for one main spar (don't do that again...arobic hand squezing. 56 of 60

57 Came up with a quick and dirty tooling solution for the alligator rivet squezer so I can use brain over brawn on the main spar platenuts. Not only was it easier, the shop head quality and consistency was superior. Touched over the other spar shop heads to make both sides consistent. Preliminary deburing or wing ribs with scotchbrite wheel. Cleco wings together for preview of the fit up. 57 of 60

58 Drilling ribs to spars for the wings 58 of 60

59 Drilling ribs to spars for wings continued. Dis assembly, and continue deburing ribs (lightening hole insides. 59 of 60

60 Scotchbrite (surface) wheel ribs, hand pad, and jeweler's file deburing of ribs to remove shear marks and burrs. Very time consuming, one of the reasons why I take a couple passes at deburing. Tag parts for priming. 60 of 60

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