CAD for Fashion. Design. Renee Weiss Chase. Prentice Hall Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458

Transcription

1 CAD for Fashion Design Renee Weiss Chase Prentice Hall Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458

2 CAD for Fashion Design Renee Weiss Chase Prentice Hall Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458

3 CHAPTER 3 From Sketch to Market: How CAD Systems Are Used, 38 Conceptualization, 39 Definition, 41 Interview: Craig Stringer, 48 Preproduction, 5 1 Interview: William Forrester, 56 Production, 59 Interview: Donald Savalli and Iohnny Sample, 62 Promotion, 64 Interview: Holly Henderson, 65 Study Questions and Problems, 70 CHAPTER 4 Design in Context: Understanding the Marketplace, 7 1 Who is the Customer? 73 Looking at the Marketplace, 75 Where Does CAD Fit In? 78 Private Label, 79 Market Integration, 80 Electronic Shopping, 80 A Consumer-Driven Marketplace, 81 Interview: Haysun Hahn, 82 Using Sources of Inspiration, 86 Study Questions and Problems, 88 CHAPTER 5 Color, 89 Science or Intuition? 89 Color Systems, 90 Working with Color, 92 Understanding the Color Wheel, 94 Color and the Apparel Industry, 96 Communicating Color, 99 Color and the Digital Word, 100 Color for Visualization versus Color for Production, 101 Interview: Hilary Spalding Fischer, 102 Study Questions and Problems, 107 CHAPTER 6 Fabric: The Designer's Medium, 109 The Fabric Selection Process, 110 Organizing the Fabrics, 112 Designing Textiles for a Line or Group, 114 Printed Fabrics, 114 Using a Scanner, 1 18 Computerized Pattern Generation, 120 Interview: Jhane Barnes, 121 Stripes, 125

4 Woven-In Designs, 125 Patterns in Knitting, 125 Study Questions and Problems, 126 CHAPTER 7 Silhouette, 127 How Much Change is Change? 128 Fashion Cycles, 129 Understanding Shape, 13 1 Fabric Selection and Silhbiuette, 132 Proportion, 133 Line, 135 Focal Point, 136 Cut, Fit, and Construction, 136 Coordinating Silhouettes, 138 Rendering Silhouette, 138 Computer Rendering of Silhouette, 141 Interview: Heather lohnson, 142 Study Questions and Problems, 145 CHAPTER 8 Putting It All Together: Presentation and Graphics, 146 External Presentation Materials, 147 Internal Presentation Materials, 148 Planning a Presentation, 15 1 Organization and Composition, 152 Computer-Generated Presentations, 154 Computer-Generated Catalogues, 160 Interview: Kenji Takabayashi, 15 7 Presentation Boards, 155 Multimedia and 3-D Presentations, 162 Study Questions and Problems, 162 Glossary, 163 Bibliography, 168 Footnotes, 169 Index, 171

5 Index AAMA, 12 Abstract print, 116 Achromatic color, 95 Additive color, 93, 95 Agile manufacturing, 13, 35, 38, 80 Analogous color, 95 Assyst, 9 Bar code, 12 Behavioristic studies, 73 Bit: defi2ition of, 6 depth, 6 Bitmapped image (see raster based) Blanket, 19, 44 Block (see sloper) Bodies, 131 Body measurement software, 34 Bottom weights, 98, 113 Branded merchandise, 11 Brochures (see catalogues) Buying: categories for, 77 CAD: acceptance of, 3, 9, 13, 67 advantages of, 3, 115 bureaus for, 79 buying from output, 58, 70 cost savings in, 58, 60, 62, 104, 144, 159 and creativity, 3 definition, 2, 14 exhibitions of systems, 15 history of, 7-13 job opportunities in, 51, 158 in presentation, 152, 154, 158, plate 29 in primary market, 78 in secondary market, 78 number of systems in use, 3, 13 suppliers of systems, 10 use of in industry, 3 CAD systems: functions of: body measurement, 34 costing, 26 cutting, 31 digitizing, 28 CAD systems (contd.) functions of (contd.) grading, 29 markermaking, 30 pattern design, 32, 52 plotting, 31 specifications, 26 CAD systems: types of: embroidery, 25 illustration/sketchpad, 22, 45 knitted fabrics, 15 printed fabrics, 17 textile design systems, 15 texture mapping, draping, 23, 46 yarn-dyed fabrics, 17 CADICAM, 12 CADICAM, 2 Calibration, 101 Camsco, 7 Catalogues, 65, 81, 103, 160, plate 27 CAUS, 96,99 CD ROM: catalogues, 81 drives, 6 libraries, 37, 45, 141 in presentations, 65 Chroma (see saturation) CIE color system, 91 CIELAB, 91 CIELAB, 99 CIELUV, 91 CIM, 2 CITDA, 12 Classics, 128 Clipping files, 87 CMYK, 93, 94, 156 Color: categories in design, 97 communication of, 99 cycles in, 85 forecasting of, 82, 96, 97 numbers of in scan, 43 placement in garment, 99 protection of, 43 reduction of number, 43

6 Color (contd.) selection of palette, 49 standards for, 99 systems for, visualization of on computers, 100, 101 Colorimeter, 42, 91, 101 Color matching, 17, 41 calibration for, 101 in creating colorways, 118 dye recipes, 42 lab dips for, 100 lighting conditions for, 91 from RGB to CMYK, 102 in a scanned image, 119 standards for, 105 tips for in printing, 156 Color space, 91 Color storyboard, 149 Color wheel, 94 Colorways, 17, 23, 44, 144 (plate 5a, b, c) Companion prints, 44 Complimentary color, 95 Concept board (see mood board) Connectivity: in information sharing, 50, 52, 57, 58 in market integration, 80 Contrasting color, 96 Conversational print, 116 Coordinated fabrics, 44 Copyright, obtaining permissions, 43, 11 1 Costing, systems for, 26, 56 Cropping, 153 Croquis, 110 Custom fit, 34, 35 Customer profile, 72 Cut and sew, 113 Cut path, 31, 52, 61 Cutting operations, 31, 60 Cybermarket, 81 Database marketing, 75 Demographic studies, 73 Denier, 113 Densitorneter, 91 Design process: illustration of, 40 job differentiation, 39 job responsibilities, 34 market considerations, 71, 72 steps in, conceptualization, definition, preproduction, production, Desk top publishing, 151, 160, 161 Digital interactive television, 81 Digital printing, 17, 115, 159 Digitizing, 7, 28 Draping, computer aided, 109 Drawing and painting programs, 5 Ease, 136 EDI, 12, 28, 79 Electronic body scanning, 35 Electronic shopping, 80 Electronic sourcing, 79 Embroidery, design systems for, 25 Ends, 44 Engraving, 17 Fabric board, 150, plate 25 Fabric selection, 1 1, 132 Fad, 128 Fashion, cycles in, 129, 131 File formats, 119 Flat line drawings (see flats) Flats, 22, 45, 140 Flats, libraries of, 47, 104 Flexible manufacturing, 13, 80 Floral print, 116 Focal point, 136 Font, 152, 153 Forecasting: color, 82 services, 87 Full fashioned, 113 Garment Moving Technology, 61 Gauge, 45, 113 Geographic studies, 73 Gerber, 8 Golden mean, 134 Grade rules, 8, 30 Grading, 7, 29, 60, 63 Graphic design, 146, 151 Graphics board, 6 Hand looms (see blankets) Hardware, 5, 6, 13 Historical print, 116 HSV, 156 Hue, 90 HVC, 90 ICA, 96 Illustration: systems for, 22 purpose of, 139 Industry specific system, 2 Inspiration, clip files in, 87 Inspiration, 86, 87, 106 Interconnectivity, 13 history of, 9 standards for, 14 Internet, 81 Intranets, 80

7 Inventory control systems, 40 Investronica, 8 Iris printer, 45, 115 Knit downs, 113 Knitted fabrics: CAD systems for, 17 design of, 45, 46 full fashioned garments, 45 simulation of, 120, 125 Lap dips, 100 Lay plan, 60 Lectra, 8 Light box, 91 Line board, 150, plate 27 Line plan (see line board) Made-to-measure (see custom fit) Markermaking, 7, 8, 30, 60, 62 Marketing: database, 75 positioning in, 75 segmentation variable in, 74 studies, 73 Marketplace: definition of, 72 design parameters for, 71 divisions in, 76 electronic, 75 sourcing, 72 Martell, Ron, 7, 8 mathmatical software, 40, , plates 21, 22 Merchandising board, 150 Microdynamics, 8 Mill end, 112 MIS (merchandise information systems), 12 Monitor, size of, 5 Mood, 97 Mood board, 41, 87, 149, plates 10 and 11 Motif, 17, 115 Multi-media, 65, 69, Munsell Color Tree, 90 Munsell, Albert, 90 Nested pattern, 30, 60, 63 Networks, for information sharing, 50, 52, 57 Novelties, 99, 114 Off-the-shelf software, 2, 13, 36, 65 important features, 5 in presentation, 155 in print design, 119 with proprietary system, 36 suggested programs, 4 for use with this book, 4 Paint program (see drawing and painting) Pantone Textile Color System@, 41, 100, 156 Pattern Design System, (PDS), 32, 52 Pattern Generation System, (PGS), 34, 52 Patternmaking using CAD, 52, 60 PCX, 119 PDS, 32,60 PDS, pattern design system: history of, 9 Peg plan, 125 PGS, 34,60 Picks, 44 PICT, 119 Piracy (see copyright) Pitching color, 11 7 Pixelated, Plaids, 44, 116 Plotter, 8, 31 Plug-ins, 125 Preproduction process, 17, 19 Presentation boards: audience for, 147 creation of, types of, , plates 9, Presentations: computer generated, 152, 158 external, 147 internal, 148 Primary market, 76 Printed fabric: arrangement of motifs brick layout, 116 engineerred print, 116 half drop, 116 one-way, 116, plate 19 quarter drop, 116 two-way, 116 CAD systems for, 17 creating colorways for, 11 7 four-way, 11 7 pitching colors, 11 7 in repeat, 114 layout of, 116 production of, 114, 115 scale of, 114 tossed, 117 types of, 115, 116 weighting in of color, 118 Printers, 6 Printing, tips for, 155, 156 Private label, 11, 79 Process color (see subtractive color) Product data management, systems for, 51 Proportion: definition of, 133 golden mean in, 134 Proprietary systems, 13 Psychographics, 73

8 Quick Response Technology (QRT): history of, 11, 12, 13 Radio frequency tagging, 61 Raster-based, 5 Resolution, 5, 155 Retail marketing, 76 RGB, 93, 94, 156 Robotics, 36, 61 Samplemaking, reduction in, 32, 48, 52, 58 Saturation, 90 Scaling, in image size, 153 Scanning, 6 color considerations in, 43, 49 color reduction in, 43 memory problems, 118 process for, 119 tips for, 155 Secondary color, 96 Secondary market, 76 Silhouette: classifications of, 131 construction with, 136 cycles in, definitlbn, 127 line in, 134, 135 proportion in, 133 rendering of, 139, 141 Sizing, image, 153 Sketch, function of, 139, 142 Sketchpad systems (see illustration, systems for) SKU (stockkeeping unite), 12 Sloper, 9, 32 Sourcing, 72, 76, 79 Specifications: color matching with, 100 in integrated market, 80 sheets, 26, 51, 52 systems for, 26 Spectrophotometer, 42, 91, 101 Staple, 76, 113, 128 Stork printer, 45, 115 Strike-off, 17, 19, 44, 115 Stripes, 116, 125 Style sheet, 148 Stylus, 6 Subtractive color, 92, 93 Sweater board, 15 1 Sweater graph, 45, 66, 120 Swipes, 41 Target customer, 73 Target market, 75 [(TC)21, 12 Technical drawing (see flats) Tertiary color, 96 Textile design: advantages using CAD, 110 art for, 110 companion prints, 44 coordinated fabrics, 44, 114, 11 7 creating collection, 114, plate 11 creating repeats, 43, 49 forecasting for, 110 illustrations, plates 6, 7, 8 simulation of, 45 systems for, 15, 16, 41 weave structure, 44 Textiles, trade shows for, 110 Textural prints, 23, 46, 48,116 Thayer, Don, 7 Theme, 97 Theme: in fabric selection, 112 Theme board, 41, 150, plate 23 3/D systems, 25 TIFF, 1 19 Top weights, 98, 113 Traditional print, 116 Trend board, 150, plate 24 Turnkey system, 2 Typography, 152 Value, 90 Vector based, 5 Virtual imaging, 25 Virtual product, 25, 160, 162, plate 30 Warp, 44 Weave diagrams, 125 Weft, 44 White space, 154 Wilhelm, Walter, 8, 13 Yarn board, 151, plate 26 Yarn dyes, 113 Yarn-dyes textiles, 17