To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons: reduce risk of injury, switch off before servicing. Close

Transcription

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2 When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following. This product is for household use, or equivalent. SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS cover before operating machine. ii Moving parts To reduce risk of injury, switch off before servicing. Close nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical it has been aropped or damaged or dropped into water Return the sewing machine to the by or near children. 2 Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual Use only 3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, it it is not working properly, if attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual. 1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used VVPR N IN G 2 Always unplug before replacing light bulb Replace bulb with same type rated 15 watts 15. Always unplug sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or 12. Do not use bent needles. 13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break. 14. Switch the sewing machine off ( 0 ) when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being Do not use outdoors. 4 Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked Keep ventilation openings of 5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening. 10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine 11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needles to break. 8. To disconnect, turn switch to the off ( 0 ) position, then remove plug from outlet. 9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord. machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning. adjustment. the sewing machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth. administered. threading needle, changing needle, threading loopers, or changing presser foot, etc. needle. when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual. 1 This sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing N G ER To reduce the risk of electric shock: To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons: Read all instructions before using this sewing machine. IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

3 1 2. STARTING TO SEW Differential feed 19 Quilting squares/triangles/diamonds 32 Differential feed and applications CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE 4. CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES AVAILABLE FOR YOUR MACHINE Threading your machine Needle threading 10 Four-thread overlock on knitted material 32 Testing stitch 11 Changing to needle plate and presser foot for narrow/rolled hems 16 Changing to standard needle plate and presser foot 17 Decorative effects Corded overiock 31 Pin tucks, Decorative edges, Decorative braids Adjusting thread tensions Adjusting stitch length 15 Adjusting overlock switch width 16 Turning curved edges 27 Minimal differential feed 19 Fitting the needle (s), Needle, thread and fabric chart 7 Spool caps 6 Preparation for threading Thread stand, Thread guide pole, Extension plates and spool holders, Outside corners 25 Finish seams 24 Narrow and rolled hems 23 Thread selection 22 Foot pressure regulator 20 Overiock edge finish 21 Fabric 22 Foot control, Power/light switch, Adjusting machine balance Looper threading 8-9 Machine adjustment chart for narrow and roiled hems 18 Removing stitches from sewn fabrics 22 Applications 23 Inside corners and angles 26 Outward curve 27 Setting up your machine 5 Positive differential feed 19 Setting differential feed 20 Cleaning and oiling 35 Replacing moving cutter 34 Changing light bulb 34 Parts list 4 Three-thread overlock with one needle 14 Identification chart 2-3 SPECIFICATION OF MACHINE KNOWING YOUR MACHINE TABLE OF CONTENTS

4 - Right Carrying hand) 2 Foot control Threading Needle Side cover Needle thread guides sewing Cord guide for corded Thread support- tension control Left needle thread - Needle thread guide Foot pressure regulator- DENTIFICATlON CHART 2. KNOWING YOUR MACHINE Accessory case tension control needle thread Looper thread guide Thread guide pole

5 FRONT AND SIDE COVERS OPENED Needle Presser foot lever Stitch length control Presser foot Fixed cutter- per looper Lower looper cutter 3

6 identification plate, at the back. PARTS LIST 4 they are required. Inside you will then find the special compartments position and keep them easily accessible when Open the side cover by swinging away from you place each accessory into its most suitable By following the layout illustrated, you can then accessories. which have been designed to store the various to the left. IN THE MACHINE S BASE ARRANGEMENTS OF ACCESSORIES No No Spool holderx 4 Detachable cord guide No No narrow/rolled hems narrow/rolled hems No No, 6106 Extension plate x 4 Needle plate for Presser foot for Spool cap x 4 No No Screw driver(large) Screw driver(small) No No No No I j Tweezers Brush Needles Oiler 2. The part number and description. When ordering, please give: machine, which you will find on the All parts listed may be obtained from your nearest dealer. 1. The model and serial number of your

7 removing covers or changing lamps, the 5 clockwise to raise the rubber stud. sewing light. When leaving your machine When servicing the sewing machine, supply removing the plug from the stud beneath the machine and counter practice on a scrap of fabric so any surplus machine. power/light switch is turned on. This same Your machine will not operate unless the socket at the bottom right-hand side of the Push foot control plug into the connector 3. FOOT CONTROL oil is absorbed. before sewing a garment. It is wise to oiled at the factory. Be sure to wipe off the switch controls both the machine power and Turn the screw clockwise to lower the rubber the machine is fitted with an adjustable the side cover where it will be seen inside to the left. machine MUST be disconnected from the rubber stud. This can be located by opening for any unevenness on your working surface, In order that you may be able to compensate 5. ADJUSTING MACHINE BALANCE socket-outlet. socket-outlet. off or the plug removed from the 2. Your sewing machine has been thoroughly 4. POWER/LIGHT SWITCH 1. Set your sewing machine on a sturdy, flat SETTING UP YOUR MACHINE surface. needle plate area and bed plate carefully unattended, the machine MUST be switched INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

8 similar mariner. lightly, Fig. 1. The side cover can be opened in a and be latched automatically by swinging it back To open front cover, push release lever to the right and then swing i to the right. It will close 6 keep the reel in place. directly on to the spool pin. Use the spool cap to When using domestic cotton reels, place the reel SPOOL CAPS For large cone spools use the rubber spool but with the narrow end at the top. small ones, use the same rubber spool holders holders with the wide end at the top, and for spool pins beforehand. Place extension plates and spool holders over EXTENSION PLATES AND SPOOL HOLDERS front, Fig. 1. through thread guides on the pole from rear to Place threads on spool pins and draw threads Pull up thread guide pole to its highest point. THREAD GUIDE POLE To put it back in the position for storage with the arrow indicates in Fig. 1. until it clicks. Push the thread stand all the way to the right as dust cover, push it back all the way to the left. THREAD STAND PREPARATION FOR THREADING Fig. 3 Fig. 2

9 hand wheel towards you, but leave presser foot 7 useful for different types of fabric.. Cottàn No. 1OO clamp screw securely. as far as they will go. Re-tighten the needle SIDE AWAY FROM YOU, up into the groove of needles, Fig. 4. Place new needles with FLAT the needle bar, ensuring that they are inserted Loosen needle claml screw to remove old Use HA X isp, HA X 1(130/705H) Needles. down. NEEDLE, THREAD AND FABRIC CHART Raise needle bar to its highest point by turning FITTING THE NEEDLE(S) * Synthetic threads are recommended for ordinary overlocking. Polyester thread, for example, is very Bulk.Nylon Polyester Cotton No. 60 No Polyester. :COttbflNG ::...No Po!yøster 60:. PO1ySt....:No.io080 :Polyester Polyester.Cottor[No/60 Cotton No. 60. :. PO.lyeste.... No 80 Polyester ::.. Cotton No 60 No6Q-50 Polyester....:No.6o. ThREAD.. fabrics for light weight 75(11) sewing for general 90 (14) fabrics: denim for feavy weight 100 (16) NEEDLE Y Fig. 4

10 2. Threading must be carried out in the turning the hand wheel towards you by hand. 1. Raise the needle bar to its highest point by 8 about 4 (10 cm) of clear thread. upper looper (see 8, Fig. 3). Finally, pass the thread under rear of presser foot, leaving control and threading though the hole in the Upper looper - colored BLUE on chart and shown on diagram page 9, taking thread through the thread guides and blue tension 1. Follow similar procedure as above, as also Symbols on thread guides. Lower looper - thread. the arrow. Leave about 4 (10 cm) of clear 2) and hook it around part (8) as indicated by 2. Pass thread through lower looper eye (9, Fig. lower looper (7, Fig. 2). onto thread guide just inside machine, below diagram (page 9) through the thread guides and purple tension control (steps 1 - colored 6). Then 1. Draw thread from spool, as shown on A symbols on thread guides. PURPLE on chart and LOOPER THREADING diagrams-page 9 and 10). symbols imprinted threading will result in several problems such as skipped controls turn all four anti-clockwise until they cleanly through the tension discs and behind be found in the accessory case. improper thread through thread guides with same chart in the machine (Fig.1) and lead each stitches and breaking thread etc. 3. Follow carefully the threading paths in the 4. To assist thread passing around tension 5. To help in threading, a pair of tweezers will tangling. any time to re-thread lower looper, ALWAYS remove the thread from the needles to avoid stop at 0 setting. Ensure thread passes the pointed hook in each case (see FINALLY needle threads. If it is necessary at FIRST lower looper; SECOND upper looper; following sequence: THREADING YOUR MACHINE 2. STARTING TO SEW OPERA11NG INSTRUCTIONS 7- Fig. 3 Fig. 2

11 found an advantage to thread up the tension controls). This will help identify 9 tensions. which is which and also for adjusting threads (say similar to colors on the first few times using different colored machine for the first time, it may be NOTE: If you are using an overlock

12 control and through the thread guides with Finally thread needle(s) from FRONT to BACK from needle(s) firs to avoid tangling. and then under the presser foot, leaving about the lower looper, ALWAYS remove thread (s) Should it be necessary at any time to rethread 4 (10cm) of thread(s). 10 to original position with the thread in place. the thread is released, the check spring wifl return until thread can be slipped into the hook. When Pull check spring up and past the pointed hook with 4 symbols. tension control and through the thread guides Follow the path colored YELLOW on chart for right needle, taking the thread around the yellow I symbols. taking the thread around the green tension path colored GREEN on chart for left needle, Lastly needle must be threaded. Follow the NEEDLE THREADING

13 necessary turn to page 12. and to make any adjustments that may be In order to be sure you have the correct stitch sharp pair of scissors. (see Fig. 2 and 3). of the threads gently with your left hand of the fabric at slow speed and trim off with a hand wheel towards you a few times with continue sewing for about 3 beyond the end 2. Now test the machine again but this time use 3. After you reach the end of the fabric, using. a spare piece of the fabric you propose has been carried out correctly. it is uniform. If not, re-check that threading your right hand. towards the rear of the machine, turning the Check the stitch formation produced to see if (see Fig. 1), lower presser foot. Pull the ends 1. Without any material under the presser foot stitch in the following order: After threading is completed test the machine Fig. 1 Fig TESTING STITCH

14 Now sew the fabric again and compare with 12 should look as follows: looper thread on the edge of the material. should lie mainly on the top side (like rows of Then turn each knob clockwise to the followings; NEEDLE THREADS act as safety stitche& and LOWER LOOPER THREAD should lie flat on thread on the edge of the material. top-side of fabric and lock with the lower looper the underside of fabric and lock with the upper UPPER LOOPER THREAD should lie flat on the they stop at the 0 setting. First turn all tension controls anti-clockwise until follows: If threads do not appear as above, adjust as on the underside of the fabric. thread, and just visible in the lower looper thread normal straight sewing) on the upper looper about 1 % rotations. The correct balance of stitch tension (+) and anti-clockwise ( ) decrease tension. All the control knobs can be turned Thread tensions will vary according to the type and thickness of both thread and fabric. Turning the tension controls clockwise will increase ADJUSTING THREAD TENSIONS achieve a correctly balanced stitch. A simple amount of experimenting will quickly increase right needle thread tension (Yellow). If right needle thread is loose and clearly visible upper looper tension (Blue). and/or decrease either or both looper threads. increase left needle thread tension (Green) top-side of fabric (Fig. 3, page 13), increase (Purple). (Blue) and/or decrease lower looper tension Fig. 2, page 13), increase upper looper tension is pulled over to the underside of the fabric (as If the upper looper thread is seen to be loose, or If lower looper thread is seen pulled up onto the If left needle thread is loose and clearly visible Fig.1, page 13. lower looper tension (Purple) and/or decrease on underside of fabric (Fig. 4, page 13), on underside of fabric (Fig. 5, page 13), lower I to 3 upper looper thread ii to 3 right to 3 left needle thread tension knob to 7

15 or both looper threads. tension and/or decrease either tension. Increase left needle thread Increase right needle visible on under side of fabric, visible on under side of fabric. Left needle thread loose and Right needle thread loose and Just right. under side. top side. tension and/or decrease lower tension and/or decrease upper 13 Fig. 4 looper tension. looper tension. Increase upper looper thread Increase lower looper thread Fig. 2 hi Upper looper thread pulled to Lower looper thread pulled to

16 featured on this machine, it is possible to produce simple three-thread overlock stitches by also possibie to achieve two different seam threading only ONE needle. Furthermore it is produced (see diagrams below). the RIGHT needle only a width of 2.8 mm will be width of 5 mm will be produced and by threading widths. By threading the LEFT needle only a control(s) Needle tension thread control control Green control Yellow control Green Yellow Needle(s) Use left needle only Right needle only Two needles Overedge threads 3 rea S (described previously) Number of Th d 4 Threads 5 mm 2.8 mm 5 mm In addition to the four-thread overlock mainly THREE-THREAD OVER LOCK WITH ONE NEEDLE

17 15 particular job in hand. hand, turn the stitch length dial with your left 2. Holding the hand wheel tightly with your right the side cover. settings to determine the most suitable for the RECOMMENDED STITCH LENGTH SETTING Rolled edge 1 to 2 mm which are now available, it is not possible to give you make several sewing tests, with various be necessary to adjust the stitch length to specific settings. It is suggested, therefore, that Because of the wide range of these fabrics When sewing on stretch fabrics or knits it may Narrow stitch 1.5 to 2 mm different settings to those shown above. 3 mm (standard setting) Regular stitch 1 to 5 mm Indicator window adjustment of stitch length from 1 to 5 mm. the longer the stitch. This dial allows for indicator window. The higher the number - hand until the required length appears in the 1. When you wish to adjust stitch length, open ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH

18 plate and presser foot. When first delivered your found suitable for most general overlocking needle plate and presser foot, which will be machine will be fitted with the standard 5.0 mm Stitch width can be adjusted by changing needle 16 into position and secure with screw(c). 8. Place needle plate for narrow/rolled hems During the changing operation be careful to pin(b). (Fig. 1) screw(c) and lifting plate up from guide 2. Raise needles to its highest point by turning 3. Open both front and side cover plates. 4. Loosen thumb screw(a) and remove presser 5. Remove right needle and use left needle 6. Place presser foot for narrow/rolled hems 7. Take off needle plate in use by removing keep fingers away from both cutters. and secure with thumb screw. Fig. 1 only. foot in use. (Fig. 1) presser foot. hand wheel towards you and also raise 1. Unthread machine. POWER SUPPLY BY REMOVING PLUG FROM FIRST DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM SOCKET-OUTLET. NARROW/ROLLED HEMS AND PRESSER FOOT FOR CHANGING TO NEEDLE PLATE for narrow/rolled hems. Needle plate and presser foot 2 mm) and rolled hems. These will be found in Standard needle plate and your accessory box. presser foot. needle plate and presser foot for narrow (about Your machine is also supplied with a set of requirements. ADJUSTING OVERLOCK STITCH WIDTH

19 17 3. Place standard needle plate. 6. Tighten screws(d) securely while fixed 8. Tighten screw(g) while you push shaft 9. Place standard presser foot. there is no gap between both cutters. aligned with needle plate surface and then end(f) slightly to right by fingers. Make sure pulled by spring. 4. Loosen screw(g) and slide moving cutter(h) 7. Loosen screw(g) and moving cutter will be cutter(e). Tighten screw(g) while you push cutter(e) is held in parallel with needle plate. as shown in Fig Loosen screws(d) and move fixed cutter(e) 1. Remove presser foot and needle plate. CHANGING TO STANDARD NEEDLE sure there is no gap between two cutters. be pulled by spring until it touches with fixed tighten screws(d) securely. tentatively. right away from fixed cutter(e) by pushing up with needle plate as shown in Fig Put right needle back into needle bar. so that the right side of fixed cutter(e) lines shaft end(f) to right slightly by fingers. Make 1. Loosen screws(d) and align fixed cutter(e) special effect you desire. shaft end(j), and then tighten screw(g) for narrow/rolled hems to accomplish the 2. Make sure that the top of fixed cutter(e) is 3. Loosen screw(g) and moving cutter(h) will to right to align its right side with needle plate cutter It may be necessary to realign the fixed cutter ALIGNMENT OF AXED CUTTER PLATE AND PRESSER FOOT Fig. 2 Fig. 3

20 presser foot (see page 16). Needle plate and Use needle plate and presser foot for narrow/rolled hems Narrow overlock hems Rolled hems 18 * The best tensions for one fabric may not be correct for another. The required tensions depend * * When overlocking fine, scart-like materials with narrow hem, set stitch length between 3 - decrease thread tensions slightly. 4 and above tension balance guideline. upon stiffness and thickness of fabric, thread size and type. If necessary, readjust referring to the plus 3 One turn (purple) Lower looper (blue) Upper looper needle (green) control for left * Thread tension wer looper Bulk nylon (less stretchable) Bulk nylon (less stretchable) Upper looper Thread for needle Polyester, Nylon, Silk No Nylon No. 100 Needle 75or90(llorl4) 75(11) Polyester, Nylon, Silk No Stitch length ** 1.5to2 1 to2 MACHINE ADJUSTMENT CHART FOR NARROW AND ROLLED HEMS

21 material at a different ratio. The differential feed has two independent feed dogs, one front (A) and one rear (B). mechanism which enables the feeding of Each feed dog has an individual feed foot to offset the puckering on the fabric. effect of stretching material under the presser MINIMAL DIFFERENTIAL FEED stroke than the rear feed dog (B). This has the FEED; the front feed dog (A) makes a shorter WHEN SET FOR NEGATIVE DIFFERENTIAL presser foot to offset the wavering on the fabric. effect of accumulating material under the stroke than the rear feed dog (B). This has the FEED; the front feed dog (A) makes a longer WHEN SET FOR POSITIVE DIFFERENTIAL POSITIVE DIFFERENTIAL FEED (Model with Dt identification only) DIFFERENTIAL FEED Minimal differential feed Positive differential feed Differential feed dogs 19

22 (Minimal, effect) and 2 (Positive effect). These The adjustment can be made between 07 chart below. lever in the direction desired referring to the 20 decrease pressure. clockwise to increase or anti-clockwise to Dec necessary, turn the foot pressure regulator most of ordinary sewing. If adjustment is the factory, so you do not need to adjust it for Presser foot pressure has been correctly set at 7 Incre FOOT PRESSURE REGULATOR Pucker-free seams Minimal differential feed No differential feed Neutral feed 1 Waver-free seams, Gathering Positive differential feed 1 2 F I REAR: FRONT EFFECT AND APPLICATION TYPE OF FEEDING SETTING FEED RATIO The lever can be reset even while sewing. For normal sewing, the lever should be set at 1. settings give the best ratio of feeding. Set by simply turning the differential feed control SETTING DIFFERENTIAL FEED

23 finished look to your garments, craft or machine will help you create a professional sewing machine to give your garments that finished designer look. 21 Three thread overlock Four thread overlock practical way to finish garments using three or overlock the edge of your material at a width your material with three threads, plus a fourth right needle. A locking flexible effect is made in and 5.0 mm by using either the left needle or four threads. Three threads are formed to Your sewing machine gives you a quick, OX ERLOCK EDGE FINISH ranging from 2 mm with a rolled hem, to 2.8 mm inside, outside, or as a decorative feature. This overlock edge finish may be used on the professional overlock trimmed edge finish. trim the material prior to stitching to form a raveling. The sewing machine will also cut and through the overlock to prevent separation or thread which forms a single line or safety stitch from industrial sewing machines. Your sewing machine as an accessory to your present describe a new concept of home sewing copied household items. You may use your sewing OVERLOCK or SERGING is a term used to

24 22 sewing test samples on the same material you sewing machine. unravel and be easily removed. pull looper thread(s) and the stitching will Example: All three threads should be Snip the needle thread at intervals. Then gently SEWN FABRICS REMOViNG STITCHES FROM Select threads of one type only when using your THREAD SELEC11ON-CONVENTIONAL and stitch length to make a good stitch. Select the stitch width suitable for the specific fabric by mercerized cotton, spun polyester, or cotton covered polyester, etc. Different threads on the tension adjustments. It should be borne in mind uneven weave of the thread. cause tension problems due to coarse and CAUTION: The use of industrial type thread may Use the spool holders or caps as needed to fit buy sufficient for your requirements. that the lower and upper loopers will use about thread. When purchasing thread for sewing, may be necessary to adjust tensions, cutters your particular needs. available on today s market, tricot to denims. It machine may cause time consuming thread especially if it is an unusual color, you should Your sewing machine will sew most materials plan to overlock. Some materials may need twice the amount of thread than the needle thread Domest FABRIC SEWING OVERLOCKED BY SEWING SAMPLES. ALWAYS TEST THE MATERIAL TO BE protectors, or other additives to prevent skip stitches. prewashing to remove backing, dirt gathering

25 23 the rear, proceed to sew normally. Pulling the three threads and material gently to Fig.1 or2. Then start your sewing on edge as shown in Fig. 3. Start Fig. 1 the stitch finger of needle plate. to the rear or back to remove the threads from grasp the three threads (chain) and pull directly IMPORTANT: When startin9 the second row, edge directly on the cut edge. 2. Cut the corner diagonally and start your rolled hem portion. 1. Start the second rolled edge just below the rolled There are two solutions to this problem; tends to gather instead of rolling. soft material is now a stiff rolled hem which a change in the fabric. The corner of this once corner portion distorts. This trouble is caused by Sharp corner of a narrow and rolled edge may, sharp corner with another rolled edge, the after one edge is rolled and you try to make a rolled edge on soft pliable material. Of course, Your machine is designed to make a narrow and of your overlock machine. situation you must first understand the function at times, appear to be rough. To correct this narrow and rollecf hems Hints on sewing sharp corner of on starched or stiff materials. not have to worry about dimensional changes or shrinking, or rough out-side edges as will occur fabrics are prewashed. With prewashing you will A narrow rolled hems is no problem when starting to sew the actual garment. spare piece of the fabric you intend using, before 6. Always test the stitch and tension settings on a 5. Stitch length should normally be between 1 - chart and adjust the tension controls accordingly. 2. types of fabric. Study the recommendations in the from normal overlocking, particularly with different 4. Thread tensions for these types of hems will differ suggested in the chart on page 18. supplied in the accessory box (page 16). 2. Fit the special needle plate and presser foot 3. Use the appropriate size and type of thread as 1. Remove right needle and use left needle only. To make these hems proceed as follows: unsuitable for use on hard or heavy materials. In view of the nature of these hems, they are sewing on fine scarflike materials as shown in shell hem can be produced, particularly when In addition to the above hems, a very pleasing under and secured as shown in Fig. 2. tensions so that the fabric is overlocked, folded edge about 2 mm in width, as shown in Fig. 1. A narrow hem is formed by overlocking the fabric A rolled hem is formed by adjusting the thread chine, silk etc. materials such as georgette crepe, crepe de Narrow and rolled hems are ideal for use on thin NARROW AND ROLLED HEMS

26 overlock and trim your garments This can be inch seam allowance makes a perfect place to the garment is completed. The conventional 5/8 achieved during construction, prior to, or after your machine. Neat, clean seams can be doing them separately to reduce bulk. give a flat, neat look. side or open after completing your sewing to It is recommended to iron the cut edges to one Unlined garments are a natural place to use done by overlocking both pieces together or 24 A) You may tie a knot in the chained ends. will be crossed by another seam. The new seam B) Use a small amount of Easy Stitch, a fabric will hold stitches in place. There is no need to worry about the ends that use scissors to trim. recommended to chain off about one inch, then finished seam as shown. When finishing the overiock stitch, it is sealant, or C) Thread the chained ends into the Seam two edges stitch 5/8 Overlock Regu ar FINISH SEAMS

27 25 line Needle 4pJ- instead of the edge of fabric. other corners. 2 Carefully sew one or two stitches off the end 3 Carefully raise the needle and presser foot 4 Grasp fabric gently and rotate cloth edge of the fabric against the cutter. of needle plate. 5. Slide the thread off the seam forming tongue 6. Realign the edge of the fabric and put the cut 7. Align the needle back into the needle line 8. Overlock the edge as needed, repeat for 1 Sew one side of the fabric to end To attain a neat outside corner do the following disposed of and tied off machine with a little practice. Sewing off and Neat outside corners can be attained with your back on creates extra thread which must be OUTSIDE CORNERS

28 INSIDE CORNERS AND ANGLES Inside corners may require a little practice prior to overlocking your finished garment. You may either cut your fabric to desired size or mark your fabric and carefully follow your line and trim off excess. For example: (Cut to size materials) 1. Align the fabric edge with the inside edge of cutter. 2. Overlock stitch to the inside edge, allowing your cutter to make one cut into the inside corners. 3. CAUTION: your cutter is approximately 4 in front of the needle, so you must fold your material away from the cutter. Sew to the corner and stop. 4. Raise up presser foot and needle, pivot material, align the fabric edge against the inside edge of cutter. 5. Slide the thread off the seam forming tongue of needle plate. 6. Align needle to form a square corner and sew the balance of your seam. -K ½ inch ie UNCUT MATERIAL: Follow the same procedure, but you must carefully follow your mark. Always consider that you will have excess cut-away material to handle. 26

29 27 the opposite directions in a similar manner but applying the pressure in handling. For outside curves place under the presser foot 2 Reduce speed of the machine for easy pressure at point A in the direction of the arrow with your left hand, and at the same time the presser foot (or a little to the left) applying For inside curves, guide fabric gently with TURNING CURVED EDGES NEEDLE AT ALL TIMES CAUTION KEEP FINGERS AWAY FROM finish. trimming line of the fabric under the right front of 1. Set up your machine as for a straight edge straight seam by doing the following: It is simple to attain a neat clean look similar to a more efficiently and readily than a sharp corner. your right hand Your machine will sew a curved shape much applying a little opposite pressure at point B with OUTWARD CURVE

30 DECORATIVE EFFECTS PIN TUCKS can be made very easily and simply by doing the following: 1. Fold the material along a predetermined line to be pin tuàked, select the size or width of pin tuck, either 2.8 or 5.0 mm, and use appropriate needle. 2. Place edge of folded material against the cutter. The cutter is to be used as a guide only, do not cut into the folded fabric or you may remove the cutter if desired and use the edge of the needle plate as a guide. 3. Sew to edge, chain off, tie off by using Easy Stitch fabric sealant. 4. Repeat for other pin tucks as required. 28

31 29 sewing your garment. recommended to test your overlock prior to make tension adjustments. It is always 1. Many decorative threads are not available in can be incorporated into the threading system to decorative appearance. specialized threads, it may be necessary to floss, candlewicking, metallic or other types of 2. The upper looper thread will give the most 3. Choose your color of contrasting threads to 4. Using your choice of decorative thread, 5. Always test on sample material. use a loose tension compared to the other on the lower looper and needle. match material. Mount in position to thread which then can be used on your machine. very easily. Threads like embroidery floss, candle-wicking, metallic, and top stitching thread attain a beautiful decorative effect as follows: gowns, shirts, blouses, etc., can be achieved spool or cone form and it may be necessary mount thread on spool pin and thread onto your upper looper. This thread may have to When using a mixture of threads like embroidery DECORATIVE EDGES to pockets, lapels, to wind this thread onto an empty spool two threads.

32 30 (5.0 mm) cording, or ribbon as wide as the overlock overlock as explained on page 14. namely embroidery floss, candlewicking and top break. same threads because it has a tendency to Metallic thread cannot be used when using three stitching is being done on a narrow braid stitching thread to give you a full-looking braid. edge, with the exception that this same style of desired, 2.8 or 5.0 mm, using three thread by following the same procedure as decorative DECORATIVE BRAIDS can be made very easily You may also choose to use three same threads 2. You may use your cutter or edge of needle 3. You may also remove your cutter for this 4. Carefully feed braid through your overlock 5. Finished braid can be sewn to other Decorative braids needle plate as guide. garments as a single braid or entwined with sewing, over one edge, across over the plate as a guide, making sure you do not cut nice appearance. contrasting color to your thread gives a very the cord, braid, or ribbon. operation if desired and use the edge of other edge. one or two other braids. 1. Choose your cord, braid, or ribbon. A

33 CORDED OVERLOCK Corded overlock can be used to strengthen shoulder, sleeve or side seams when joining or making up knitted garments. As a decorative feature you can use knitting yarn of contrasting colors to further enchance your garment. Your machine is equipped with a presser foot which has been designed to feed your cord or yarn to the left of the safety stitch or to the right. Follow instructions as follows: Snap the detachable cord guide, No.11497, in your accessory set onto the thread guide pole (Fig. 1). Place a filler cord, such as a crochet cotton, gimp, wool, knitting yarn, or shirring elastic at the rear of the machine spool pin. Pass the cord through the cord guides (1) and (2) and then through the left needle thread guide (3). See Fig. 1. Insert the cord through either the front or rear hole (according to the operation, see diagrams Figures 2 and 3), in the presser foot and pass it under and to the rear of the foot. 4. Place the material to be sewn as normal. Start at slow speed observing if cord is feeding correctly and increase speed as needed. FOR JOINING SHOULDERS OR SLEEVES, pass the cord through the front hole, ensuring that it is fixed between the left and right needle threads as it is guided through the front hole. (Fig. 2). FOR JOINING SIDE SEAMS, pass the cord through the rear hole, ensuring it is positioned to the right needle thread. (Fig. 3). FOR DECORATIVE EFFECTS, you may pass contrasting colors either through the front or rear hole or if you desire, pass cord or yarn through each hole. 3 L.:J 31

34 32 : through your overlock to bind and hold your which will blend into your knitted materials and a three-thread overlock, plus the safety stitch needles. This will give you an overlock stitch A tour-thread overlock is a perfect stitch to finish stitching thread to be threaded through your bulk material. It gives you a conventional loopers and conventional threads through your We recommend a yarn, embroidery floss or top contrasting colors on your loopers. Knit Material Conventional thread Yarn You may finish your raw edges by chaining the neat, unravelled squares. :1 patchwork quilting a much simpler operation. individually. In all cases it will give you clean, The three or four thread overlock can make your pieces together, as shown below, or do them QUILTING SQUARES/TRIANGLES/DIAMONDS material from raveling, decorative effect when using matched FOUR-THREAD OVERLOCK ON KNITTED MATERIAL

35 feature, puckering and wavering are always On an overlock machine with no differential feed fabrics you use and find the best settings Always do a test run with a piece of actual more the fabric is contracted influence the setting. The longer the stitches, the The exact adjustment depends on the thickness and elasticity of fabric. Even the stitch length can IMPORTANT requirements. obtain the best gathering effect for your heads, sleeve bottoms and ruffles, etc. Set the control lever between 1.5 and 2 to lightweight fabric. Use it on waistlines, sleeve Differential feed makes gathering easier on 3. Gathering Wavering tends to lever at more than 1. To obtain waver-free seams, set the control stretchable fabrics. occur on knitted or 2 Wavering adjustment lever at less than 1. To obtain pucker-free seams, set the fabrics. Puckering tends to occur on woven or sheer 1. Puckering It is also very effective for gathering. puckering and wavering. Differential feed is designed to minimize to stretch when sewn. For example, woven fabrics tend to contract unavoidable on some materials. when sewn On the other hand knit fabrics tend (Model with D identification only) APPLICATIONS DIFFERENTIAL FEED Gathering Wavering Puckering il:. J;; Pucker or waver-free seams 33

36 3. CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE REPLACING MOVING CUTTER Should it become necessary to replace the moving cutter, due to it becoming blunt, apply the following procedure. NOTE: You should not need to replace the fixed cutter, which is made of a special hard alloy material. FIRST REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE SUPPLY SOCKET-OUTLET. 1. Swing open both front and side covers. 2. Remove the old cutter by loosening the screw (A). Using the small brush supplied in your accessories, clean away any accumulation of lint etc. around the exposed area. (Fig. 1) 3. Lower the shaft (B) to its lowest position by turning the hand wheel towards you by hand. In this position, fit the new moving cutter by replacing screw (A) and retighten, ENSURING THAT THE EDGE OF THE MOVING CUTTER IS APPROXIMATELY 0.5 mm BELOW THE SURFACE OF THE FIXED CUTTER see inset picture Fig:2. cutter Highest position of moving cutter Fig. 1 CHANGING LIGHT BULB The sewing light is located under the machine arm, as shown, and illuminates the sewing area only. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM THE POWER SUPPLY BY REMOVING PLUG FROM SOCKET- OUTLET. DO NOT REPLACE BULB OF MORE THAN 15 WATTS MAX. To change bulb, pull down light cover, push the bulb in slightly and turn clockwise. Remove it from socket. Push in new bulb and turn counter-clockwise. Push up light cover. Lowest position of moving cutter Fig. 2 34

37 To keep the machine running smoothly, keep it FIRST DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER SUPPLY BY REMOVING PLUG FROM SOCKET-OUTLET. ALWAYS USE MACHINE OIL. A GOOD QUALITY SEWING clean and lubricated at all times. and then apply a few drops of oil to the points indicated by arrows. accumulate around the whole exposed area, tray by removing the single securing screw. screw. Replace the tray and secure by re-tightening the Lay the machine on its back and take off the lint Using the brush provided, remove any dust and lint that may have accumulated in the tray and bottom of the machine. MACHINE CLEANING THE BOTTOM OF THE CLEANING AND OILING 35 Open both front and side covers. Using the brush provided, remove dust and lint that

38 4. CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION Incorrect thread tension(s). Reset thread tension(s). Incorrect size needle. Choose correct size needle for thread and Irregular fabric. Stitches Improper threading. Re-thread machine. Pulling fabric. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. Loose presser toot. Reset presser foot. Pulling fabric. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. r Incorrect size needle. Choose correct Dreatcing size needle for thread and fabric. Needle Incorrect setting of needle. Reset needle. Reset presser foot.. Incorrect thread tension(s). Reset thread tension(s). Puckering Bent or blunt needle. Insert new needle. Loose presser foot. Reset presser foot.. ck ipping Incorrect cnes Improper threading. Re-thread machine. size needle. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric. Bent or blunt needle. Insert new needle. Incorrect settingof needle. Reset needle. Improper threading. Re-thread machine. Bent needle. Insert new needle. Breaking Thread tension(s) too tight. Reset thread tension(s). Threads Incorrect setting of needle. Reset needle. Thread spool tangled. Reset spool properly. Thread guide pole not extended. Fully extend guide Pole. SPECIFICATION OF MACHINE ITEM SPECIFICATION Number of threads 4 or 3 threads Overedge stitch width 5 mm (13/64 ) (left needle) and 2.8 mm (7/64 ) (right needle) Needle HA X isp, HA X 1 Stitch length 1 5 mm (3/64 13/64 ) Stitching speed Up to 1500 stitches per minute Dimensions 310 mm(w) X 263 mm(d) x 290 mm(h) (12¾ x 10½ X 11 ½ ) Weight 8.1 Kg (18 lbs.) 36

39 No (1.0) for medium/heavy fabrics (0.5) for fine/medium fabrics and Part extra and are available in two sizes. Part No. Blind hem feet are obtainable as an optional BLIND HEM FOOT THESE ACCESSORIES ARE AVAILABLE FROM YOUR DEALER. Turn up the hem to the required depth and fabric - see Fig. 3. should be almost invisible on the right of the side of the garment, creating a soft fold on adjust the guide so that the needle just open out and press again. The stitches the wrong side of the fabric - the guide in the front of the foot and lower the presser foot lever. Try a stitch (or several stitches) on a scrap of the actual fabric, and outside edge will be cut away by the machine - see also Fig. 2. After completion, of the small screw on the top of the foot - see wrong side up. Feed the folded edge into 2. Place fabric under the presser foot with the Fig When correctly set, sew the hem. The Now proceed as follows: Set the stitch length at 4 - catches the fold. Adjust the guide by means Screw press. Fold the hem back against the right 5. see Fig. 1. Fit the appropriate foot. z. YOUR MACHINE 5. OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES AVAILABLE FOR 37

40 ELASTIC FOOT (Part No ) An elastic foot is avanable as an optional accessory. This foot will guide your elastic and at the same time apply pressure to the elastic with our specially designed tension controlled roller, allowing you to control the elasticity while sewing. 1. Replace regular foot with elastic foot. 2. Set stitch length at about Slightly raise the roller portion of the foot and insert elastic tape between the roller and the lower support bar as illustrated, until the edge of elastic reaches the feed dog teeth. 4. Sew the elastic for about one inch or more to be sure it is feeding properly. 5. Insert the fabric under the foot and sew together with the elastic. 6. Check the stitches to make sure they are proper and adjust roller tension (tighter) it necessary. 7. Adjust the tension control of the roller so that the desired finish can be obtained. a. Tighter tension of the roller gives more elasticity of the fabric after it is sewn. b. Weaker tension of the roller gives less elasticity of the fabric. 38

41 PIPING FOOT (Part No ) Prepare a piece of ready-made piping (corded bias fold tape). Place piping between seam edges at seam line. The piping feeds smoothly in the groove on the bottom of the foot. Stitch the seam. Braid or ribbon may also be used, either flat or folded braid can be used in straight seams. Use for decorating edges of collars, cuffs, pockets, etc. PEARL/SEQUIN SEWING FOOT (Part No ) 1. Remove moving cutter. 2. Remove right needle and use narrow/rolled hem needle plate. 3. Replace regular presser foot with pearl sewing foot. 4. Set stitch length at 4 to 5 depending upon the size of pearl. 5. Fold fabric along a line to be stitched with pearl chain. Feed the folded edge through the fabric guide in the front of the foot. 6. place pearl chain on pearl guide. Try a stitch (or several stitches) on a spare piece of the actual fabric, and adjust the fabric guide by means of the small screw driver on the top of the foot. 7. When correctly set, start to sew. 39

42 40 identification plate, at the back. differential feed) differential feed) machine, which you will find on the No (model without No No (model with No Spanner Moving cutter 2. The part number and description. 1. The model and serial number of your When ordering, please give: Machine cover nearest dealer. All parts listed may be obtained from your OPTIONAL PARTS LIST

43 Canada, M1P 2G1 Scarborough, Ontario Model No. The Model No. is located at the Rear of machine. No. of this appliance. Record in space provided below the Serial No. and Model The Serial No. is located at the Rear of machine. Serial No. Retain these numbers for future reference Bérea Road VIKING SEWING MACHINE CO. HUSKYLOCK SEWING MACHINE HUSQVARNA SEWING MACHINES U.S.A. Cleveland OH Birchmount Road

44 Canada, M1P 2G1 Scarborough, Ontario 1470 Birchmount Road HUSQVARNA SEWING MACHINES U.S.A. Cleveland OH Berea Road VIKING SEWING MACHINE CO. Retain these numbers for future reference. Model No. No. of this appliance. Record in space provided below the Serial No. and Model The Serial No. is located at the Rear of machine. The Model No. is located at the Rear of machine. Serial No. HUSKYLOCK SEWING MACHINE 1