SECTION IV DIFFERENTIAL FEED

Transcription

1 SECTION IV DIFFERENTIAL FEED Differential feed allows you to sew many different types of fabrics eliminating puckering on lightweight woven fabrics and stretching on knits. When working on a serger without the differential feed feature, puckering and waving are unavoidable on some fabrics. Superlock owners need only to adjust the differential feed for professional seams and decorative applications as explained below. Your Superlock has two sets of feed teeth. Each set of feed teeth has an individual feed mechanism which enables the feeding of fabric at a different ratio, therefore feeding more or less fabric into the back teeth giving the desired result. The differential feed is adjusted by the dial located on the right side of your Superlock behind the stitch length dial. It has been labeled for your convenience. Differentiai feed dial 33

2 Positive differential feed is also used for gathering and easing. To accomplish this, set your differential feed control from 1.5 to 2.0. accumulates fabric under the presser foot to offset the wavering of the fabric. The front feed teeth make a longer stroke than the rear feed teeth. This Positive Differential Feed (1.5-2) DIFFERENTIAL FEED ) rear feed teeth are feeding at the same rate. The normal differential feed setting is 1. At the 1 setting both the front and the Normal Differential Feed (1) feed control dial setting for this procedure is 0.7 to 1. holds your fabric taut under the presser foot to offset puckering. The differential The front feed teeth make a shorter stroke than the rear feed teeth. This actually Minimal Differential Feed (0.7-1) 34

3 0.7 setting of differential feed. Some lightweight fabrics may pucker when serged. This can be prevented by using POSITION NOTE: BE SURE TO RAISE YOUR PRESSER FOOT BEFORE CHANGING THE DIF FERENTIAL FEED TO ALLOW THE FEED TEETH TO FREELY MOVE TO THE NEW Raise the presser foot and set the differential feed to the normal setting of 1. Lower the pucker4ree thanks to your differential feed. another seam opposite the previous one. This seam should be Raise the presser foot and set the differential feed to 0.7 then lower the presser foot. Fold fabric in half and serge a seam. There may be slight puckering. presser foot (LL) (UL) - 4- (LN)-4- (RN)-4- Normal Tension Setting Silky woven Differential Feed 1 - then change to 0.7 Stitch length Stitch width SERGING LIGHTWEIGHT FABRICS

4 be wavy. This can be corrected by using the differential feed settings. When serging stretch knits such as ribbing or bulky sweater knits, the seams tend to 36 modate a wide range of fabric types. which enables you to set your differential feed anywhere in between to accom Note: You have a wide range of settings from the 1 setting to the 2 setting serge the opposite edge of your sample. This seam will be flat. Raise the presser foot and set the differential feed to the 1 setting then lower presser Raise the presser foot and change your differential feed to 2.0. Lower presser foot and Fold fabric in half and serge a seam on one edge going with the stretch of the fabric. Your seam should look stretched and wavy. foot. (LL) (LN)-4- (RN)-4- (UL)-4- Normal Tension Setting Rib knit Differential feed 1 - then change to 2 Stitch Length Stitch Width OR BULKY KNITS SERGING STRETCH

5 GATHERING You will never gather again with cording that breaks and bobbins that run out of thread. Save time by gathering ruffles and skirts to bodices by using differential feed on your Superlock. Stitch Length 5 Stitch width 6 Differential feed 2 Lightweight woven Tension Setting (LN) -8to9- (RN) -8to9- (UL) -4- (LL) -4- Insert fabric under the presser foot and serge one inch. Place the forefinger of your left hand behind the foot and apply a small amount of pressure to the fabric as it emerges from under the presser foot. After the length of fabric has been gathered, STOP, raise the presser foot and remove your fabric. Leave about a thread tail as you may wish to adjust your gathers. Be sure to put needle tensions back on 4 to prevent breaking needle threads if chaining off edge of fabric. Variation: Try using this technique on lace for lace rosettes. 37

6 3-THREAD SEWING TECHNIQUES 38 for a wider three thread clip the right needle thread. For a narrow three thread serge, clip the left needle thread just before the needle eye; thread edge finish prevents ravelling of your fabrics allowing your seams to lay flat. If you prefer to finish first, then seam with a straight stitch and press open. The three Use a three thread seam for maximum stretch on knits or for an edge finish for seams SECTION V

7 for light weight fabrics. medium to light weight fabrics. Using your left needle will give you a wider seam for medium weight fabrics. Using the right needle will give you a narrow stitch width seam Three thread Superlock techniques allow a single seam and lighter edge finish for THREE THREAD SEAM OR EDGE FINISH of fabric. Narrow stitch width seam -Remove left needle and place in needle -Sew a narrow seam along opposite edge cushion (ilius.). Rethread right needle. - a wide three thread seam. -Fold fabric in half. -Remove right needle Clip thread above right needle eye. (LL) (UL)-4- (LN) Normal Chino Use Left Needle Only Stitch Length Stitch Width 6 a 4 a a 39

8 ROLLED EDGE This technique is normally used on soft fabrics, such as crepe de chine, georgette, silk and other light weight materials. This technique cuts, folds and overlocks the edge to give a fine 1.5mm rolled edge. Thread Stitch Length Stitch Width Stitch Finger Regular or Wooly nylon R 6 Removed F Rolled Edge Lightweight woven Remove the left needle. (RN)-4- (UL)-4- (LL) The fabric is rolled by adjusting. The thread tension and is overlocked with upper looper thread. Setting Up your Superlock for Rolled Edge Remove the left needle and place in needle cushion (you will sew only with the right needle). Open left side cover and slide stitch finger out as illustrated. Place it in the holder provided just inside the front cover (illustrations 1 and 2). Your Superlock is equipped with an Automatic Tension System specifically for the three-thread rolled edge. Simply set the right needle, upper looper, and lower looper tensions at and select R on the stitch length dial. At the beginning of sewing, gently pull the end of the thread chain. Always test the stitch on a scrap piece of fabric first. Hint: If edge puckers, set differential feed to

9 Mach me Setting silk or other light weight fabrics. For a picot or shell edge, turn the stitch length dial to P. This edging is perfect for chiffon, 41 and stitch length (move stitch length dial toward P for a longer rolled stitch length). the decorative thread used. Remember to experiment first for the proper tension setting looper tension may need to be adjusted in the 3-7 range depending on fabric type and This includes Wooly nylon, metallic, silk, Sulky@ rayon, perle cotton, etc. The upper For a decorative effect try using novelty threads in the rolled edge or picot edge. decorative threads. turn stitch length dial toward P. The edge will still roll, making this ideal for heavier NOTE: If serging rolled edge and longer stitch length is desired for less of a satin edge, The longer stitch length will create a picot or shell edge. picot edge along single edge of lightweight woven fabric. Set stitch length dial on P. Setting up your Superlock for a Picot or Shell edge (LL) -4- (UL) -4- (RN) -4- Remove the left needle : Light Weight woven Differential Feed: 0.7 Stitch Finger: Removed Stitch Length: P Stitch Width: 6 Thread: Regular thread, rayon thread or Wooly nylon. PICOT EDGE

10 Stitch Length: R Gently pull the chain to turn the strap inside out. a thread chain as long as the desired strap plus 5 inches. down the open side seam trimming away 1/2 of fabric. were a hot dog in a bun. Fold the spaghetti strap around the thread chain as if the chain Cut the spaghetti strap one inch wider than the desired width. with a rotted edge: (LL) - 4- (RN)-4- (UL)-4- Normal Lightweight woven or tricot Stitch Finger: Removed Stitch Width: 6 SPAGHETTI STRAPS 42 Use this technique for narrow spaghetti straps, braided or twisted belts, belt loops, etc.

11 rolled edge. or for a cuff placket and is sewn just like the inside corner technique except using This technique can be used when seeing the plackets for the neckline of a blouse SLIT OR PLACKET _1/ open. Using the inside edge of the cutter as a guide, roll the edge. form a straight line. There will be two small tucks at the top of the slit when it is pulled Cut a slit 3/4 of the way into our fabric. Open the slit so the inside edges of the slit Normal Left needle removed Medium weight woven Stitch Finger: Removed Stitch Length: Stitch Width: 6 R s 43

12 stabilizer into strips with your rotary cutter and mat. water soluble stabhizer such as Solv for a smoother finish. Cut the transparent fabric threads may poke between the stitches on the rolled edge. Try roihng over a When serging a roiled edge over lace or stiff fabric (linen and some cottons), the 44 excess fabric with scissors when completed. 112N and roil along the folded edge, being careful not to cut the fold of fabric. Trim away HINT: Another good way to handle pokies on some fabrics is to turn under one edge SoIv. Tear away excess Soiv from rolled edge. Spray with water to remove any remaining serging. Roll the SoIv and fabric together through the Superlock, trimming away 1I4 while Position Solv on top of the fabric to be rolled. (LL) (RN)-4- (UL)-4- Medium weight woven (linen) Stitch Length R Stitch Width 6 Stitch Finger Removed Thread Regular or decorative in the upper looper REMOVE THE LEFT NEEDLE POKIES ROLLED EDGE

13 This technique is used on lightweight or soft fabrics. A narrow edge is formed by overlocking the fabric with a finish about 2mm in width. tension and stitch length before sewing actual garment. lf using different types of thread, be sure and test on a scrap of fabric to adjust the This is a balanced stitch serged without the stitch finger. (LL) (RN)-4- (UL)-4- Silky woven Stitch length 1-3 Stitch Width 6 Stitch Finger Removed Thread Regular REMOVE THE LEFT NEEDLE. NARROW EDGE 45

14 machine. straight stitching to complete this technique does require a conventional sewing seamson both sides. It is also excellent for seams where durability is needed. The This technique is excellent for reversible garments because it produces finished the seam. one or both sides. Try using decorative threads in your upper and/or lower looper for a decorative look on conventional sewing machine. Press the seam to one side and stitch flat using a straight stitch on your Fold fabric in half, wrong sides together. needle and re-thread. Clip right needle thread above the needle eye and remove right needle. Reinsert left (LN)-4- (UL)-4- (LL)-4- Normal Sweatshirt Fleece Use Left Needle Only - Stitch Length 3 5 Stitch Width 6 Stitch Finger Inserted SAFELOCK 46

15 DECORATIVE EDGES 4 your stitch on a scrap piece of the same material before sewing your garment. decorative threads, it may be necessary to make tension adjustments. Be sure to test Note: When using a mixture of threads such as regular thread combined with heavy use one of the finishing techniques described earlier. Press the tension release lever down, remove your sample and Stitch around denim until the stitches meet. Thread decorative or specialty thread through upper looper. the tension. need to tighten the upper looper. The general rule is: the heavier the thread the lower your upper looper tension, and when working with finer decorative threads you may When working with heavier decorative threads, you may find you need to loosen (LL) (UL) - 1 to 3 - (LN)-4- Denim Decorative thread - upper looper Thread Regular thread - lower looper Stitch Finger Inserted - Stitch Length 3 5 Stitch Width 6 decorative threads in the upper looper and/or lower looper. floss, metallic, topstitching threads, perle cotton, fine yarns, rayon threads, etc. Use Your Superlock has unlimited decorative possibilities using different threads for binding, edging, tucks, etc. Experiment with regular sewing threads, embroidery 47

16 you a full-looking braid. wide as the three thread overlock desired. Use three of the same color threads, or mix Decorative braid can be made by stitching over a narrow braid, cording or ribbon as them for variety. Embroidery floss, candlewicking, and topstitching thread will give with other braids to create a decorative trim. Choose your cord, braid or ribbon. Try contrasting colors for variety. Finished braid can be sewn to other garments as a single braid, or entwined Use your cutter or the edge of the needle plate as a guide. Do not cut braid, cord the stitching. or ribbon. Feed braid under the presser foot and stitch. You will encase the braid in use the left needle only. stitch through the braid or ribbon and keep it from shifting. Under most circumstances Use one or two needles as desired. If you use both needles, the right needle will the decorative thread. The upper and lower looper tensions may be slightly lower to accommodate (LN)-4- (UL)-2to4- (LL)-2to4- Normal Braid, ribbon or cord (middy braid works well). Stitch Length 3-5 Stitch Finger In Place Thread Decorative in upper looper DECORATIVE BRAIDS 48

17 leather to serge decoratively and eliminate bulk. seam on the other. It can be used on knits, tricot, even fake furs and soft topstitching or as a decorative stitch on one side of the fabric and a flatlock This technique uses three threads to serge a ladder or trellis stitch used for edge for the smoothest flatlock. stitching for perfect results. Adjust the guide, the thread loops slightly off the Hint: Use the Superlock optional accessory blind hem foot to guide you when looper for the flatlock. Try a rayon thread in the needle for a decorative ladder stitch or on your upper PuIl fabric apart and press. Adjust your tensions as needed. Place fold along right edge of needle plate, near the cutter. Do not cut the fabric. edge. side fold fabric in half with wrong sides together. Sew the seam together. For best results allow stitches to 9oop slightly off the in half with right sides together. If flatlock stitch is desired, on the right lf the ladder stitch is desired on the right side of the garment, fold fabric (LL) (UL) (Heavier thread = lower tension) (LN)-O- 1- Sweatshirt fleece or denim Stitch Length Stitch Width Stitch Finger 6-7 Normal 3 to 5 Thread Regular or decorative FLATLOCK/LADDER STITCHING & SEAMS 49

18 fabrics and laces, use right needle only. Using the flatlock, apply lace to lingerie the same way as found on ready-made. For wider seams use left needle only, and for narrower seams used on very fine FLATLOCK TECHNIQUE LACE APPLICATION 3 PulI lace and tricot apart to reveal ladder seam Place lace on top of tricot near edge with right sides together. Raise presser foot. Press tension release down and remove sample. Do not cut lace. Start to sew. Keep lace to inside of cutter. Trim fabric if desired. Align lace edge with right side of needle plate near cutter. (LL) (UL) - 2 to 4 - (LN)or(RN)-O- 1- Tension Setting Tricot and lace Stitch Length Stitch Width Stitch Finger In place

19 FLATLOCK TECHNIQUE LINGERIE ELASTIC APPLICATION workbook. elastic foot (part # ) as described in the optional accessory section of this For a really easy elastic application, use the Superlock optional accessory elasticity it will have and the elastic will return to its normal size. The stitch length is increased because the less stitches sewn into elastic, the more Hint: Pull tricot and elastic apart to reveal ladder stitching. Using inside edge of cutter as a guide, stitch, stretching elastic as you sew. along raw edge of sample. With right sides together, lay edge of elastic (picot edge to the left) (LL) - 6 to 8 - (UL)-2to4- (LN) - 0 to 1 - Tricot and 3/8N lingerie elastic Stitch Length 4 to 5 Stitch Finger Normal 51

20 A fast and easy way to finish a wool scarf or tartan scarf. threads up to the serged line. Work thread tail into stitching. Pull fabric open. Starting at the raw edge, pull out all the horizontal Insert fabric under the presser foot, and serge along the fold. this line and press lightly, wrong sides together. Mark an additional line up 1 112H from the edge or hemline. Fold along excess fabric. Try to cut on the straight of grain for easy, even fringing. Use a water soluble pen to mark the edge or hemline. Cut away Remove right needle. (UL) - 2 to 4 - (LN or RN) - 0 to 1 - (LL) - 6 to 8 - Hopsacking (loose weave) Stitch Length 3 to 5mm Thread Regular or decorative FRINGE FLATLOCK TECHNIQUE 52

21 ROLLED EDGE NOVELTY THREADS For a decorative effect try using novelty threads in the rolled edge. This includes Wooly nylon, metallic, silk, Sulk, perle cotton, 2-ply baby yarn, etc. Remember to experiment first for the proper tension setting and stitch length. Thread Decorative Stitch length R Stitch finger Removed Remove left needle. Wooly Nylon (Use in the upper looper.) Hint: Use a needle threader to thread the wooly nylon through the eye of the looper. (RN)-4- (UL)-4- (LL) Metallic Thread (Use in the upper looper.) (RN)-4- (UL)-4- (LL) Silk or Sulky (Use in upper looper.) (RN)-4- (UL)-4- (LL) Hint: You may wish to use a thread net to prevent the thread from slipping off the spool. 53

22 To enhance any garment with ruffles, try rolling fishline into the rolled edge. After 2 to 3 release left hand from the thread chain. On a garment, pull along the fishline or wire and fabric every yard or so before cutting fishline. Sometimes additional fishline and wire will be taken into the rolled edge. release to remove project. Clip thread and fishline or wire. Roll and cover an additional 12. Raise presser foot and press down on your tension through the guide on the front, through the front hole in the foot, and bring to the back of Guide the fabric and fish line or wire with your right hand. presser foot and hold on to the tail with your left hand from behind the machine. Technique Guide is found in the accessory bag. lnsert the fabric under the presser foot and lower needle into the fabric. Lower the Be careful not to cut the fishline or wire. Stitch a 2 thread tail. Unroll fishline or wire and place it to the back of your Superlock Stitch 2 to 3 to catch the fishline or wire in the thread tail. Snap the Specialty Technique Guide to the telescoping thread guide. The Specialty Raise the presser foot. Put the fishline or wire through the Specialty Technique Guide, the machine. (LL) (RN)-4- (UL)-4- For wire: medium weight woven & wire For fishline: silky woven & fishline Stitch length R Stitch finger Removed Removed the left needle. Thread Regular or decorative flexibility to an edge. (22 to 28 gauge floral wire works well.) It is great for creating weight of fishline. By adding wire to an edge, you can gain a lot of body and The fishline causes the ruffle to stand up and curve gracefully away from the garment. Depending on the weight of the fabric you can use 14 lb to 60 lb bows and other craft projects. 54 FISHLINE RUFFLES OR WIRE EDGES ROLLED EDGE

23 unsuitable for use on hard or heavy fabrics. weight polyesters, etc. A narrow edge is formed by overlocking the fabric edge with tightening the lower looper tension. In lieu of the nature of these hems, they are a finish about 2mm in width. A shell edge can be done on scarf-like fabrics by This technique is normany used on soft fabrics such as crepe de chine, silk, light stitch length before sewing actual garment. Finish corners as discussed in Section Ill. make the shell or scalloped effect. Sewing the shell hem on scarf-like fabric requires tightening the lower looper to you use. Testing on a scrap piece of fabric is recommended for correct tension and Thread tensions for these types of edges will vary with the type of fabric and thread (LL) - 6 to 8 - (for shell edge) (LL) -3 to 4 - (for narrow edge) (RN)-4- (UL)-2to4- Silky woven Shell edge 3-5 Stitch Finger Removed Stitch Length Narrow edge 1-3 Thread Regular or Wooly nylon Remove the left needle. NARROW OR SHELL EDGE 55

24 1 I flatlock, a light overcast and rolled edge. sponge (fig. 4). and slide to the left and return to the storage 2 thread sewing, pull the prong out of the eye Note: To remove the converter lever after upper looper eye (fig. 2 & 3). right and put the prong on the end into the 5. Slide converter lever on upper looper to the sponge inside front door (fig. 1). 4. Remove 2thread converter from storage 3. Move upper looper to its lowest position. 2. Thread lower looper only. needle in the needle sponge. overcast or flatlock. Store the removed and rolled edge: left needle for wide Right needle for a narrow overcast flatlock 1. Thread either the left or right needle only. Threading for 2-Thread Sewing SECTION VI - Tc r d vrock - 2 THREAD SEWING TECHNIQUES /2 I F1g2 F1g3 / Two thread Superlock techniques give you many additional sewing options, such as 56 2 Fg4

25 build up is desired. The two thread overcast serges a lightweight finish when less thread along the edge to finish. Place fabric under the foot with the edge against the cutter. (LL) 3-4- (LN) 0-1- Lightweight woven Converter attached Needle Left (Use right needle when a narrower overcasting is desired.) - Stitch length Stitch width 6 TWO THREAD OVERCAST 57

26 then pull the fold flat for a row of serging that resembles braided embellishment. a two thread flatlock for decorative embellishments along a fold. Stitch and and needle catching the folded edge. Hint: Snap on the blind hem foot and adjust with the fold along the guide 3. Pull ooen and flat. 2. Stitch along the fold of the fabric with the left needle catching the fold of the fabric and looping off the edge as you sew. 1. Place fold of fabric 1I4 to the left of the cutter. (LL) - 3 to 4 - (LN)-Otol - Tension Setting Sweatshirt fleece Needle Left Stitch length Stitch width 6 Stitch finer Normal TWO THREAD FLATLOCK 58

27 thread. Use the two thread wrapped edge for a reversible, decorative edge using specialty / 4;,. I I The decorative threads should wrap around to the back side of the fabric. Place under the presser foot and serge along the edge. (LL) 2-4 (LN) 4-5 Chino Converter Attached Stitch length 3-35 Stitch Width 6 Stitch Finger In place TWO THREAD WRAPPED EDGE 59

28 edge possible. Perfect for silky scarves. Use the two thread rolled edge for lightweight fabrics when you want the lightest Place under the presser foot and serge along the edge. LL 8-9 RN 5 Lightweight woven Needle right Stitch length 1 St itch width 5 Stitch finger removed TWO THREAD ROLLED EDGE 60

29 medium and heavy fabrics. foot is available in two sizes - 0.5mm for fine and medium fabrics and 1.0mm for Purchase blind hem feet from your White sewing machine dealer. The blind hem Hint When starting a hem in the round, trim a small totally under the foot and on to the feed teeth. should be almost invisible on the right side of fabric. section of the hem so that the fabric can be inserted completion, open out and press again. The stitches edge will be cut away by the machine (fig. 3). After 3. When correctly set, sew the hem. The outside screw on the top of the foot (fig. 3). Shift the guide to the right or left as needed, and tighten the screw. catches the fold. To adjust the guide loosen the up. Feed folded edge into the guide in the front of the foot and lower the presser foot. Try several fabric, and adjust the guide so that the needle just 2. Place fabric under presser foot wrong side foot. Try several stitches on a scrap of the actual stitches on a scrap of the foot and lower the presser soft fold on the wrong side of the fabric (fig. 2). against the right side of the garment, creating a attaching (fig. 1). Turn up the hem to the required depth and press. Fold the hem back Push up blind hem foot with your finger when 1. Replace regular foot with blind hem foot. (LL) -4- (RN) -4- (LN) -4- (UL) -4- Normal Sweatshirt knit Stitch length Stitch width Stitch finger In place Section VII - Optional Accessory Feet 61 Fg.3 Fg. 2 Final hem length Guide Screw Final hem length Fig. 1 L BLIND HEM FOOT ( , )

30 PIPING/CORDING FOOT (# ) The piping/cording foot speeds both the making of piping and the insertion process. Stitch length 2-3 Stitch width 6 Stitch finger Normal Medium weight woven and piping Normal (LN) (RN)-4- (UL) - 4- (LL) Replace regular foot with piping foot. 2. Cut square of fabric in two and lay piping along seam line between the two pieces of fabric (right sides together). 3. Insert fabric pieces under the foot so that the piping lays in the groove under the foot. 4. piping into the seam. il 62

31 Purchase your elastic foot from your local authorized White dealer. designed tension controlled roller, allowing you to control the stretch while you sew. ELASTIC FOOT (# ) I Hint: Insert elastic into foot before placing foot on Superlock. (Turn screw to the left to loosen). 6. To adjust the amount of stretch: b. Loosen the adjustment screw for less stretch. 1. Replace the regular foot with the elastic foot. in the elastic. (Turn screw to the right to tighten). a. Tighten adjustment screw for more stretch 5. Check the stitch and adjust the tension if necessary. with the elastic. 4. Insert the fabric under the foot and sew together elastic is being caught. Tighten tension screw to stretch elastic. 3. Sew the elastic for one inch or more to be sure behind the foot. Insert elastic into and under the foot, until it reaches screw on the elastic foot to open front of the foot. 2. Raise the elastic foot; loosen tension control (LL) -4- (RN) -4- (LN) -4- (UL) -4- Normal Medium weight woven Stitch length Stitch width Stitch finger In place 4.0mm for a 3 thread overlock 5mm for a 4 thread overlock 4-5 1I4 to 3i8 elastic, and at the same time stretch the elastic with our specially An elastic foot is also available as an optional accessory foot. This foot will guide 63 j

32 Stitch length 3-4 Presser foot Shirring foot Stitch width 6 Needle Right & left Stitch finger In place SHIRRING FOOT (# ) This foot, also known as a gathering foot or separator foot, is used for joining two pieces of lightweight fabric while gathering only one of the fabric layers as it is stitched to the flat layer. Two strips lightweight woven Normal (LN)-8- (RN)-8- (UL) - 4- (LL) be straight be gathered 1. Snap on the shirring foot. 2. Raise the presser foot and bring the needles to the highest position. 3. Place the bottom fabric layer (2) between needle plate and shirring foot and insert it up to the needle against the upper cutter. 4. Place the top fabric layer (1) in the opening of the shirring foot and flush with the bottom layer. 5. Lower the presser foot and sew guiding the fabric against fabric guide. 6. Do not hold back bottom fabric layer as it gathers. 64

33 Puckery Special Hints used are the proper symbol. It is important that each thread follow only one symbol. the looper take up lever is threaded correctly and that all the thread guides thread breakage can happen. Because of the speed of the Superlock, f the pole is not completely extended, 3. Needle is dull, bent, or burred - change needle after completion of each garment. 5. Improper threading sequence- if a looper breaks, needle thread must be removed 6. Old brittle thread or rough and uneven thread could cause breakage. 7. Check to make sure that the thread guide pole is completely extended. from the eye of the needle before rethreading the looper. to help support the thread as it is being released. 2. Tension is too tight - reduce the tension slightly to the corresponding looper/needle 4. Thread is caught on the spool or is wrapped around the spool pin - use spool caps that is breaking thread. 1. The number one cause of thread breakage is incorrect threading. Make sure Thread Continues to Break 3. Needle is dull or burred causing a poor quality stitch. Change to a new needle. 4. Thread is not in thread guides or has slipped out. threading through the tension and pull thread into tension discs. 2. Machine is threaded while tension is engaged. Use tension release lever when 1. Needle tension is too loose. Increase tension slightly. Stitches Show Through on the Right Side of Seam 3. Machine may be improperly threaded. Rethread and check all threading points. 5. In any case, do not use a yellow or red banded needle. 2. Needle may be dull or bent - change to a new needle. 4. Upper looper tension may be too tight. Loosen it slightly. 1. Improper needle type. Be sure to use an Organ brand needle. Skipped Stitches or your needle tensions are too tight. 3. Make sure your tensions are set correctly. You may find your looper tensions are working with. 2. Make sure your stitch width is set correctly for the weight of the fabric you 1. Check to make sure the stitch finger is in the normal position. SECTION VIII 65

34 Explanation: Why does this happen? On some fabrics such as T-shirt knit or other being cut. When it springs back to its normal shape, we end up with loops on the Note: Whenever you have a tension problem there will be at least two threads coming out of the tension dials, there doesn t seem to be any tension on the thread. on the upper portion of the fabric and the lower looper lies on the lower portion of the interacting. Because of this you will always have two choices: Increase one thread Explanation: When rethreading your Superlock, always use your tension release lever. 3. Thread has slipped out of a thread guide - recheck all threading points. An easy association to remember when adjusting tensions is that the upper looper lies release lever when threading tension grooves. Adjusting Tensions outer edge. To correct this you will need to work with your width adjustment. set for the appropriate fabric. 2. Check to see that the thread is laying inside the tension discs. Use the tension 4. C utter is cutting too much fabric off. Recheck to make sure your stitch width is 1. Looper tensions may be too loose - increase both looper tensions. on the outside edge of the fabric. fabric. The needle is the straight stitch. beautiful but after rethreading one of the looper tensions is unbalanced. Attempting to top of your Superlock. 3. Presser foot pressure is too tight. Adjust this with the pressure release dial on the release as it does on a conventional sewing machine. Therefore you need to use the release lever and pull out a tail of threads. When you lift the presser foot on your Superlock the tension does not automatically the Superlock run so that a tail is left behind the presser foot, or use your tension 2. Thread is being caught under the presser foot. At the completion of each seam let 1. is being inserted behind the cutting blade. Since the cutter is in front of the You have just rethreaded your Superlock. The tension before rethreading was How could the tension dial malfunction simply by rethreading your Superlock? Continue in this manner until a balanced tension has been reached. tension or decrease the other thread tension, but usually not both at the same time. adjust by tightening the tension dials does not work. When you pull on the thread tension release lever to ensure that the thread will correctly seat itself in the tension assembly. If the thread is not seated properly in the tension discs, the tensions will not adjust properly or thread may pop out of the tension discs. needle, it must be able to trim the fabric before it is carried through the needle. Machine is Jamming fine knits, the moving cutter (upper cutter) is drawing or stretching the knit as it is If you are adjusting for a new fabric, for example a T-shirt knit, and a loop forms Cannot Get a Tight Stitch at the Cut Edge of the 66

35 Adjusting Cutting Width 25, 26 Adjusting Presser Foot Pressure 6 Adjusting Stitch Length 24 Acjusting Thread Tension 21 Adjustable Guide 7 Accessories 4 Jamming 66 Identification Chart 3 Inside Corners 29 Hints for Successful Stitching 9 Handwheel 6 Gathenng 37 Guide 7 Fringe 52 Foot Control 5 Flatlock 49 4-thread Overcast 23 4-thread Techniques Elastic Applicaiton 51, 63 Elastic Foot 63 Decorative Edges 47, 53 Disengaging Upper Cutter 7 Differential Feed 33 Differential Feed Dial 33 Closing Front Cover 5 Cutting Width Dial 3, 25 Cutting Width/Stitch Width 25 Changing/Inserting Needles 10, 11 Casing or Hem Fold 32 Changing Presser Foot 6 Changing Thread 18 Corded Overlock 30 Cleaning 8 Braid 48 Blind Hem Foot 61 Blind Hem Fold 32, 61 Built-in Thread Cutter Balancing Stitch 25 Basic Sewing Techniques INDEX

36 68 Minimal Differential Feed 34, 35 Oiling 8 Lightweight s 35 Lingerie Elastic Application 51 Lower Looper 15, 20 Narrow Edge 45, 55 Normal Differential Feed 34 Needles, Insertion 10, 11 Needles, Thread and Chart 11 IllJLeft Needle 16 Ladder Stitch 49 Loose Stitch 66 Needle Selection 10 Needles, Threading 16, 17 Needle Threader 17 Outside Corners 28 Opening Front Cover 5 Puckery 65 Replacing Needles 10 Safelock 46 Presser Foot Lift 6 Presser Foot Pressure Adjustment/Dial 6 Positive Differential Feed 34, 36, 37 Pokies 44 Piping Foot 62 Lace Application 50 Set-Up and Maintainance 5 Special Hints 65 Securing Beginning and End of Seam 27 Selecting Thread 9, 11 Spaghetti Straps t or Placket 43 1iJ Skipped Stitches 65 Sleeve Placket 29 Rosettes 37 Seam and Seam Finish 23 Right Needle 16 Ribbing 31 Ruffles 37 Rolled Edge 40, 53, 54 Rolled Edge Over Fishline or Wire 54 Optional Accessory Feet Picot Edge 41 Power/Light Switch 5 Shell Edge 55 Shirring Foot 64

37 Stitches Showing on Right Side of Seam 65 Spool Nets Stretch Knits/Bulky Knits 36 Threading Threading Sequence 13 Threading Lower Looper 15 Threading Upper Looper 14 Waste Tray/Trim Tray 7 Vinyl Cover 8 Storage 8 Thread Breakage 65 UpperLooper 14,20 Threading for 2-thread 56 Upper Cutter 3, 7 Thread Cutter 7, 19 Thread Guide Pole 13 Thread 9, 11 Tension 12-21, 67 Testing Stitch 19 Table of Contents i, ii 2-thread Techniques 56 2-thread Rolled Edge 60 2-thread Overcast 57 3-thread Seam 39 3-thread Techniques thread Converter 3, 56 2-thread Flatlock 58 2-thread Wrapped Edge 59 Threading and Tension Stitch Length Dial 3, 24 Stitch Length 24 Swing-Away Side Cover 5 Stitch Finger 40 Turning the Handwheel 6 Tying-on Thread 18 Specialty/Decorative Threads 12, 41, 54 Spool Caps 12 Specialty Technique Guide 30 Spool Holders 12