Sonrisa 2016 Kim Guzman. All rights reserved.
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1 Sonrisa 2016 Kim Guzman. All rights reserved. Skill Level Challenging Materials To fit underbust measurements of 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46 and 48. J&P Coats Royale Fashion 3 Crochet Thread (100% mercerized cotton, 150 yard balls): 9, 10, 10, 11, 13, 14, 15 balls (or approx. 1350, 1425, 1500, 1650, 1815, 2000, 2200 yards) Suggested Hook sizes: 3.25mm [D-3] (small), 3.5mm [E- 4] (medium) and and 3.75mm [US F-5] (large) 4 split-ring plastic stitch markers (or small contrasting pieces of yarn) Needle (for weaving ends) One box 6/0 round glass seed beads in coordinating color (approximately 688 seed beads per box) Suggested: small candle and lighting implement Finished garment chest sizes The instructions assume a bra cup size of C-D which makes the approximate finished chest sizes 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50 and 52. Alterations for a smaller or larger cup size are included. Ease The bodice of this garment has no ease, meaning that it is intended to be actual body size when finished. Make A Swatch With medium hook, ch 20, sc in second ch from hook and each rem ch, turn 19 * Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn, rep from * until 23 rows have been completed from beg. Swatch should measure 4 square. Rep as needed using different hooks until the required gauge is reached. Notes Please read accompanying tutorial documentation for more information about this design and how to make alterations to fit each individual. Each body is different and I have provided information to help with changes you would like to make. The fit of this garment is intended to be different than most crochet garments currently available. Because of its uniqueness, I felt the need to provide more information to ensure you get the fit you need. There are details in this pattern which I haven't seen in patterns for decades. Certain details of garment design were removed from patterns to keep them short for publication and then forgotten as time went on. Return to my website here, if you didn't get the tutorial: Sonrisa Empire Waist Top 1
2 Special Stitches Bead Single Crochet (Bsc): Pull up a bead close to your work, move yarn to front of your crochet hook, position bead in front of your work with your non-hook hand, move yarn to back of your crochet hook, still holding the bead in position with your non-hook hand, insert your hook into the single crochet as you would normally and complete your single crochet. v=tto2kpeus4m Single Crochet 2 Together (sc2tog), also known as a Decrease Single Crochet: insert hook in indicated sc, yo, draw up a lp, insert hook in next sc, yo, draw up a lp, yo, draw through 3 lps on hook. Reverse Single Crochet (rev sc): This stitch is exactly like a regular single crochet except for one difference. The difference is that it you position your stitch differently than you would normally. If you are right-handed, you will insert your hook in the next stitch to the right (instead of left). If you are lefthanded, you will insert your hook in the next stitch to the left. Yarn over and pull up a loop. Make sure to pull up the loop high enough so that you can complete your single crochet normally. The difficulty with this stitch isn t that the stitch is worked in the opposite direction, it is that the loop isn t pulled high enough to make the stitch comfortable. Beaded Waistband Prestring 145 (145, 169, 169, 193, 193, 217) beads. With small hook, chain 14, sc in second ch from hook and in each rem ch 13 sc, turn. Choose the graph for the size you are making. Ch 1 at the beginning of each new row. Each white block indicates a single crochet. Each green block indicates a bead single crochet (see special instructions for bead single crochet). After completing the final row, do not cut off. Continue to the Bodice Back instructions. Sonrisa Empire Waist Top 2
3 36 Underbust 78 rows 38 Underbust 82 rows 40 Underbust 88 rows 42 Underbust 94 rows Sonrisa Empire Waist Top 3
4 44 Underbust 100 rows 46 Underbust 104 rows 48 Underbust 110 rows Sonrisa Empire Waist Top 4
5 B o d ice B ack Underbust Measurements 1 After waistband is complete, change to medium hook, turn work to beg working along sides of rows, with the beaded side facing you. Ch 1, work sc evenly across sides of rows. Do not turn. 2 Ch 1, rev sc in front loop of each sc across. Do not turn. 3 Ch 1, sc in each back loop of each sc from Step 1, turn. Mark this as the first row of your Bodice Back for all row count purposes following. 4 Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. 5 Rep Step 4 until a total of rows have been completed from beg Armhole Shaping 6 Sl st across Ch 1, sc across sc only, turn, leaving rem sc unworked Sonrisa Empire Waist Top 5
6 8 Ch 1, dec sc across first sc, sc across to within last 2 sc, dec sc across last 2 sc, turn. 9 Rep Step 8 more times On final row, * Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. Rep from * until a total of rows have been completed from beg Shoulder Shaping 11 Ch 1, sc in each of 14 sc only, turn, leaving rem sc unworked. 12 Ch 1, sc in each of 14 sc across, turn. 13 Rep Step Ch 1, sc in each of 9 sc only, turn, leaving rem sc unworked 9 15 Ch 1, sc in each of 7 sc, dec sc across last 2 sc, turn 8 16 Ch 1, dec sc across first 2 sc, sc across, fasten off 7 Opposite Shoulder 17 Count 14 sc from opposite armhole, join yarn with sl st, ch 1, sc in each of 14 sc, turn. 18 Ch 1, sc in each of 14 sc, turn. 19 Rep Step Ch 1, sl st across 5 sc, ch 1, sc in each of 9 sc, turn 9 21 Ch 1, dec sc across first 2 sc, sc across, turn 8 22 Ch 1, sc in each of 6 sc, dec sc across last 2 sc, fasten off 7 Sonrisa Empire Waist Top 6
7 B o d ice Front Underbust Measurements 1 After waistband is complete, change to medium hook, turn work to beg working along sides of rows, with the beaded side facing you. Ch 1, work sc evenly across sides of rows. Do not turn. 2 Ch 1, rev sc in front loop of each sc across. Do not turn. 3 Ch 1, sc in each back loop of each sc from Step 1, turn. Mark this as the first row of your Bodice Front for all row count purposes following. 4 Short Row Shaping Review the Alterations section to determine how much, if any, Short Row Shaping you would like. 5 Ch 1, sc in each sc across (including the sides of short rows if you have elected to make short rows), turn Bust shaping With stitch markers, mark 4 equally-spaced single crochet. These should be under the bust, not along the side edges. It does not need to be exact. Just an approximation. Move markers as work progresses to ensure proper placement. 6 Ch 1, sc in each sc across, except at stitch marker positions, work 2 sc, turn. 7 Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. 8 Rep Steps Rep Steps Sonrisa Empire Waist Top 7
8 10 Rep Step 7 until a total of rows have been completed from beg V-Neck Shaping 11 (WS) Ch 1, sc across sc only, turn, leaving rem sc unworked. 12 Ch 1, sc across, turn Ch 1, sc across to within last 2 sc, dec sc across last 2 sc, turn. 14 (RS) Ch 1, sc across, turn (Skip for size 40.) 15 Rep Step 13 times more Rep Step 14 times more Rep Step 13 times more Simultaneous Armhole Shaping 18 (RS) Ch 1, sc across only, turn, leaving rem sc unworked. 19 Ch 1, dec sc across first sc, sc across to within last 2 sc, dec sc across last 2 sc, turn 20 Ch 1, sc across to within last sc, dec sc across last 2 sc, turn 21 Rep Steps times more. On final row, Rep Step 19 times more For sizes 42, 44 and ONLY: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn 24 Ch 1, sc across to within last sc, dec sc across last 2 sc, turn 25 Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn 26 Rep Steps until a total of rows have been completed from beg Sonrisa Empire Waist Top 8
9 On final row, Sl st across 5 sc, ch 1, sc in each of rem 9 sc, turn, leaving rem sc unworked. 28 Ch 1, sc across 7 sc, dec sc across last 2 sc, turn 8 29 Ch 1, dec sc across first 2 sc, sc in each of 6 sc, fasten off 7 Opposite Side of Bodice 30 On row, sk 4 sc, join yarn with sl st in next 31 (WS) Ch 1, sc across, turn Ch 1, sc across, turn Ch 1, dec sc across first 2 sc, sc across, turn. 34 Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn- (Sk for size 40.) Rep Step 33 times more Rep Step 34 times more Rep Step 33 times more Simultaneous Armhole Shaping 38 (RS) Sl st across sc, ch 1, sc across, turn Ch 1, dec sc across first 2 sc, sc across to within last 2 sc, dec sc across last 2 sc, turn Ch 1, dec sc across first 2 sc, sc in each rem sc across, turn Rep Steps times more. On final row, Rep Step 39 times more For sizes 42, 44 and 48 ONLY: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn Sonrisa Empire Waist Top 9
10 44 Ch 1, dec sc across first sc, sc across, turn 45 Ch 1, sc across, turn Rep Steps until a total of rows have been completed from beg. On final row, Ch 1, sc in each of 9 sc only, turn, leaving rem sc unworked. 48 Ch 1, dec sc across first 2 sc, sc across, turn 8 49 Ch 1, sc in each of 6 sc, dec sc across last 2 sc, fasten off 7 Bodice Finishing Using yarn needle or crochet hook, seam the sides of the entire Bodice, including waistband, and seam Shoulders across 14 sts on each side. S kirtin g Some of the rows of the lace skirting and sleeves start with a chain 3. Note that I have elected to do a chain 2 at the beginning of those rows instead. It is just a personal preference. It works better for me to have a chain 2. And, if you feel that the chain 3 looks cumbersome, please try a chain 2 instead. Underbust Measurements The Skirting is worked from the bottom edge of Waistband and worked down. 1 With large hook, join yarn with sl st at center back, ch 1, work sc evenly around entire Waistband, sl st to first 2 Ch 3, 4 dc in same sc as joining, * sk 2 sc, sc in next sc, sk 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, rep from * around, sl st to third ch of beg ch-3 and into next 2 dc. Sonrisa Empire Waist Top 10
11 Lie the bodice flat, using the outer side edge of armhole as a guide, mark 4 sc from last row worked, 2 in the front and 2 in the back. This is where increasing will take place and will form the points at the bottom hem. 3 Ch 1, sc in same dc, work 5 dc in each sc and sc in each third dc of 5-dc group, except at 4 markers, work [(tr, ch 1) 3 times, tr]. This combination of 4 tr with ch-1 in between will be referred to as a corner. Sl st to first 4 Ch 3, 4 dc in same sc, work 5 dc in each sc and sc in each third dc of 5-dc group, except at corner work sc in first ch-1 sp, 5 tr in next ch-1 sp, and sc in last ch-1 sp, sl st to third ch of beg ch-3 and into 2 dc. 5 Ch 1, sc in same dc, work 5 dc in each sc and sc in each third dc of 5-dc group, except at corner work 5 dc in first sc, sc in third tr of 5-tr group (move stitch marker to this sc) and 5 dc in next Sl st to first 6 Rep Steps 3-5 until a total of rows have been completed from beg, not including the first row of single crochet along the bottom edge of the Waistband (or until garment is the length desired), ending with a Step 4 row, fasten off Sonrisa Empire Waist Top 11
12 1 With large hook, ch 24, sc in second ch from hook and in each rem ch across, turn 23 2 Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, * sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, rep from * across, turn 35 3 Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc across to within last sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn 37 4 Ch 1, sc in first sc, * sk 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc, rep from * across, turn. 5 Using stitch marker, mark single crochet in center of row. Move stitch marker up as work progresses. 6 Ch 3, 2 dc in same sc, work sc in each third dc of 5-dc group and 5 dc in each sc, except at stitch marker position, work [(tr, ch 1) 3 times, tr], ending with 3 dc in last sc, turn. Sonrisa Empire Waist Top 12
13 7 Ch 1, sc in same dc, work 5 dc in each sc and sc in each third dc of 5-dc group, except at stitch marker position, work sc in first ch-1 sp, 5 tr in next ch-1 sp and sc in last ch-1 sp, ending with sc in third ch of beg ch- 3, turn. 8 Ch 3, 2 dc in same sc, work sc in each third dc of 5-dc group and 5 dc in each sc, except at stitch marker position, work 5 dc in first sc, sc in third tr of 5-tr group (move stitch marker to this sc position) and 5 dc in next sc, ending with 3 dc in last sc, turn. 9 Rep Steps 6-8 until side edge of rows measures, fasten off Finishing With yarn needle, set in sleeves by folding the sleeve in half, lengthwise, centering the fold and seaming the first row of the sleeve to the shoulder seam then seaming points A and B to the side seam. It doesn t really matter which side of the sleeve you decide is the right side as long as you choose the same right side for both sleeves. Neckline Pre-string 94 beads. With small hook, join yarn with sl st at either shoulder seam, ch 1, sc evenly around entire neckline, sl st to first Ch 1, work Bsc in each sc around front of neckline, skipping sts at bottom of neckline where necessary to form a point, and regular sc around back of neckline, sl st to first Ch 1, sc around entire neckline, skipping sts at bottom of neckline where necessary, sl st to first sc, cut off. Weave in all ends carefully. Sonrisa Empire Waist Top 13
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