JAVA & BALI TOUR REPORT

Transcription

1 JAVA & BALI JULY 2008 TOUR REPORT LEADER: CRAIG ROBSON The latest Birdquest tour to Java & Bali benefited from an improved itinerary, taking in the remote forests of Gunung Halimun National Park in the west, and the Ijen region in easternmost Java. The tour proved to be a great success, and we found all of the currently recognised extant birds that are endemic to the two islands, apart from Volcano Swiftlet. In total, we recorded 240 species (with relatively few shorebirds at this season), and highlights included breeding Milky Storks, a displaying pair of White-tailed Tropicbirds, at least 200 Christmas Island Frigatebirds, Javan Hawk-Eagle, both Chestnut-bellied and White-faced Partridges, Green Peafowl, Javan Plover, Aleutian Tern, Sumatran Green-Pigeon, Sunda Coucal, Javan Scops-owl, Salvadori s Nightjar, Javan Trogon, Javan Kingfisher, Black-banded Barbet, a rather tame Horsfield s Thrush, Javan Cochoa, Sunda Blue Robin, great views of the threatened White-breasted and superb White-bibbed Babblers, Javan Tesia, prolonged views of singing Javan Bush-Warbler, White-bellied Fantail, the endangered Black-winged Myna, Whiteflanked and Javan Sunbirds, at least 30 Java Sparrows, and the little known Black-throated Munia. Unfortunately, three nocturnal species gave us the run-around (despite are continued efforts with calling birds at several sites), and were only seen fleetingly in silhouette: Rufous Woodcock, Javan (or Javan Barred) Owlet, and Javan Frogmouth. At Bali Barat National Park, we saw at least three pairs of recently released Bali Mynas that had bred in the early spring. Mammals also featured highly, with 23 recorded (excluding smaller bats and introduced species). Superb views of Javan Gibbons and a huge bull Banteng left lasting memories, and who could forget Sunda Stink Badger. On the evening of our arrival in Java, we visited Maura Angke, a small area of mangrove and reed swamp that has somehow survived the ravages of property development on the city outskirts. Recent improvements at the reserve have included a new boardwalk, from which we were able to view a surprising variety of rarities. The main reason for the sites survival of course, is the small population of endemic Sunda Coucals that live here. The views during this initial visit were rather brief, so we returned the following morning and, thanks to a good call from Jonathan, managed to scope a bird, though again rather distantly. Other good species that we found here included Sunda Teal, several Black Bitterns, Ruddy-breasted and White-browed Crakes, Black-backed Swamphen, Clamorous Reed-Warbler, an apparently resident pair of the now seriously threatened Black-winged Myna (or Starling), our first Javan Mynas, Ashy Tailorbird, nest-building Bar-winged Prinias, Javan Munia, and even some smart White-capped Munias with a flock of White-headeds. 1 Birdquest: Java & Bali 2008

2 Leaving Maura Angke behind, we headed inland to Bogor for a brief look around the famous Botanical Gardens, and another ice cream! Not surprisingly, things were rather quiet during the middle of the day, but we still found Black-naped Fruit-Dove without too much difficulty, as well as Blue-eared Kingfisher, some red-faced rosea Coppersmith Barbets, a female Hill Blue Flycatcher of the endemic west Javan race ligus (which will no doubt be split one day!), and large numbers of Black-crowned Night-Herons and Large Flying Foxes. After lunch in a restaurant we paid a visit to Telaga Warna, a small lake surrounded by forest close to Puncak Pass. Here, some small bird-waves held our first Blue Nuthatches and Rufous-tailed Fantail amongst others. Continuing on, we soon reached our accommodation in wonderful surroundings, tucked-away inside Cibodas Botanical Gardens, where a dusk foray brought our first pair of Lesser Forktails. Our first early morning at Gunung Gede-Pangrango National Park was spent at a fairly easy pace, as we explored the botanical gardens. This is a great place to get close views of such species as Orangefronted Barbet, Blood-breasted Flowerpecker, and the lovely White-flanked Sunbird, and we also had good looks at Streaky-breasted Spiderhunter, and had our first encounters with Crescent-chested Babbler and the tiny Pygmy Tit. Later, we ventured via a local short cut up to the main park trail, pausing to lure out a group of superb White-bibbed Babblers. In the afternoon we took a steady walk up to Cibeureum Waterfalls. As dusk approached, we positioned ourselves below the cliff at the end of the waterfalls and waited for the rare Salvadori s Nightjar to appear. Nothing showed before dark, but soon after, we managed to locate eye-shine on the other side of the third waterfall, and were soon scoping-up a pair of these little-known nightjars resting on some branches at the top of the cliff. Satisfied with the views, we took a slow walk back down the main trail in the dark. Two different pairs of Javan Frogmouths proved to be very vocal, but no matter how hard we tried, we just couldn t see one as they fed and perched amongst dense mid to upper storey foliage. The following two days were spent walking the main trail as far as the hot springs. On the first day, we fell short, but still managed to find an excellent flock of Rufous-fronted Laughingthrushes, and two flocks of Spotted Crocias, including one group at close range from the first boardwalk. Predawn we had made our first contact with a calling Javan Owlet, but it refused to be tempted into view from its inaccessible calling location. Leaving very early in the morning for a more determined assault on the summit trail, we found our way to the main trail junction predawn. As soon as we arrived here, those of us with good hearing picked up the distinctive high-pitched sounds of roding Rufous Woodcocks, but the gaps in the canopy were few and the birds shut up well before it began to get light. A Sunda Stink Badger trundled past Rod and Hans, but we concentrated our efforts on a Javan Scops-Owl that had called loudly from the forest depths nearby. After a little coaxing we had several clear views of the bird perched, including a prolonged one fully in the open, glaring at us with its intense orange eyes. Daybreak came, and those of us who felt fit enough, continued on with our quest to reach the hot springs as early as possible. This paid off and, as we reached the small campground just before the steaming springs, a male Javan Cochoa was soon located feeding on berries low above the trail. A female came in to join him, and several neat little Tawny-breasted Parrotfinches also showed well. We clambered over the hot springs and took a break at the first campsite above. A tame Javan Tesia here almost landed on Jonathan's boot, and close views of this relatively tame tesia were a regular occurrence in the park. A juvenile Javan Hawk-Eagle put in a couple of appearances, and we slowly made our way back downhill. At one of the campgrounds we found a note from Hans, letting us know that he had seen a pair of Javan Trogons. We lingered a while, but there was no sign. Instead, a beautiful Spotted Giant Flying Squirrel appeared in broad daylight and quietly fed in some foliage above the trail. We carried on down, and then a distinctive soft call alerted us to a family group of Javan Trogons at the edge of a stream gully, a pair and a juvenile. Many other good birds were seen during our walks in Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP. We had several encounters with Chestnut-bellied Partridges, and the lucky few had good views on the ground. Both Ruddy and Little Cuckoo-Doves put in appearances, and we had several views Fire-tufted Barbet, which is not supposed to occur on Java, being of disputed origin. The endemic Brown-throated Barbet showed only once, as did both Malaysian and Sunda Cuckoo-Shrikes. Trail-side companions included the ever-present Javan Whistling-Thrush and Sunda Warbler, and we had good looks at both Eye-browed and Pygmy Wren- 2 Birdquest: Java & Bali 2008

3 Babblers, White-browed and Lesser Shortwings, and the near endemic Sunda Blue Robin. The regularly encountered bird-waves often included Javan Fulvetta, White-browed and Chestnut-fronted Shrike-Babblers, Mountain Leaf-Warbler, and the ubiquitous Javan Grey-throated White-eye. Before heading off for Gunung Halimun National Park, we had another try for Javan Owlet and Javan Frogmouth, but our luck was still out. After a slow drive down from Cibodas, and around to the west we finally found our way to Gunung Halimun NP headquarters. The road deteriorated from here as we bumped our way steadily uphill through small farms, and then the welcoming forest greenery. It was almost dusk on arrival at Cikaniki Research Station, and looked like raining, so we casually settled in. Spotlighting around the station after dark, we found both Asian and Small-toothed Palm Civets, and Rod saw another Sunda Stink Badger digging by a stream. After a good meal, we rested our weary bones. Predawn the following morning found us on the hunt for nightbirds again and, although we located a calling frogmouth, it was only seen flying in silhouette, as at Gede. As dawn broke, we were soon logging new species. Sumatran Green-Pigeons flew over head and we soon found some perched. There were also several Dark-backed Imperial-Pigeons vocalising but flight views were all we could manage. We steadily made our way along the entrance road through wall-to-wall forest. A couple of different singing White-breasted Babblers, one of the specialities here, responded to playback but proved hard to get on to. We later found one or two foraging with a large bird-wave that proved easier. Another pair of Javan Trogons showed very well, a nice male Banded Kingfisher was scoped on a horizontal bough, and we had great views of Banded Broadbill. Almost at the end of our mornings walk we found our first glowing red Javan Sunbird and then had some great views of the rare Javan Gibbon. Our vehicles transported us back for lunch. After a break, we drove through a nearby clearing and tea plantations, with a great view of the forested hills of the park. Scanning soon turned up an adult Javan Hawk-Eagle in a prolonged glide over the forest. We walked down to a small village and then followed a nature trail through superb forest, back to Cikaniki. There were few birds, but several tiny Black-eared Squirrels entertained us. Early next morning saw another failure with the frogmouth but more significantly, we located a calling pair of Javan Owlets. It seemed that we couldn t fail to see them, but they wouldn t budge and then promptly fell quiet. We had a last walk down the entrance road before returning to Jakarta. White-breasted Babbler and Javan Gibbon showed very well, a Dark-backed Imperial Pigeon sat up nicely for us on a dead branch, Yellow-throated Hanging-Parrot was seen clearly in flight, and we had better views of Brown-throated Barbet. The following morning, a private boat took us to Pulau Rambut, a small island that holds the last significant large waterbird colony in Jakarta Bay. As we neared the island, a series of Christmas Island Frigatebirds approached us and gave great views. Once ashore, we headed straight for the tower, where we could have a great view across the colony. We were not disappointed, and were soon looking at our primary target bird here, the endangered Milky Stork. Due to the relatively early running of the tour we were still able to find 13 Milkies in the colony, including 5 juveniles, and had some great views. Several other large waterbirds were also still present in large numbers, notably Grey and Purple Heron and Black-headed and Glossy Ibises; though the bulk of the colony consists of Little Black Cormorants and apparently Black-crowned Night-Herons. A pair of White-bellied Sea- Eagles had small young in their huge nest, a good number of Pied Imperial-Pigeons were around, and there was a good roost of Large Flying Foxes. We even saw three Eurasian Whimbrels roosting in a tall dead tree top. A few noteworthy passerines like Hair-crested Drongo and Black-naped Oriole were seen, and the island appears to be a haven for cage-threatened species like Javan Myna and Magpie Robin. As we left, a nice Pacific Reef-Egret flew by, and we decided to head off to investigate a large number of roosting frigatebirds on some bamboo fish net poles. With the captain on-side, we managed to get very close to what turned out to be some very tame frigatebirds. Out of at least 250 that we counted, we reckoned on at least 200 being Christmas Island, which is a very significant count for this threatened species. Before reaching Ancol Harbour, we still had time for one more good bird - a very obliging Aleutian Tern resting on some flotsam. We approached to close range and were perfectly placed to clinch the diagnostic secondary pattern as it took off. Another was seen 3 Birdquest: Java & Bali 2008

4 nearby and both were presumed first summer birds. After lunch in a restaurant with the worst drinks service in the world but nice food, we headed for the airport and our afternoon flight bound for Denpasar, the capital of Bali. Our first morning on Bali found us in the Benoa Harbour area. The main target here is Javan Plover, and after some concerted scanning we picked up a rather distant pair and juvenile. Later we drove closer to the area and were able to get better views of the latter. Other shorebirds were rather scarce, due to the earliness of the tour, but we found a range of commoner species in small numbers. It was more productive for non-waders, with superb views of several Savannah Nightjars in broad daylight, both Sacred and Small Blue Kingfishers, and Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker. Two Little Pied Cormorants that flew over were a nice surprise. After breakfast, we drove west to Bali Barat National Park, stopping for a nice Javan Kingfisher in the rice paddies en route. On arrival at the baffling Menjangan Resort, the weather was very windy, and we decided it would be too dangerous to risk a boat trip out to the peninsular of the national park. Instead, we hooked-up with Yudi, the head ranger, and checked some forest edge habitats along the reserve boundary. Banded Pittas were calling commonly, but the understorey was rather too dry and dense to approach them. We made do with commoner typical species of the area, like Pink-necked Green-Pigeon, Chestnut-headed Bee-eater, Lineated Barbet, and White-shouldered Triller. As dawn broke the following morning, we boarded two small boats, donned our life jackets, and fully expected a rough ride out to the peninsular but, as it turned out, it was nice and calm, and the ride a very pleasurable one. Arriving at Teluk Brumbun, the release area for the endangered and now almost functionally extinct Bali Myna, we were also greeted by a small jetty, so we didn t even have a wet landing! We had only gone a few metres, when several juvenile Java Sparrows flew over calling, and we were soon looking at flocks totalling about 30 birds, including several adults. Yudi had said they were common this year, but we hadn t expected them to be this easy. Then there was a flash of white and we were looking at a pair of Bali Mynas - one of eight pairs that had been released in December 2007, and had collectively raised 12 young this spring. In all we saw about three pairs, looking very happy and with the males singing. Lets hope they can survive, for they are truly stunning birds, and belong here and nowhere else. A very busy and exciting spell at Brumbun also brought us a pair of Beach Thick-knees, a Black-thighed Falconet eating a juvenile Java Sparrow, great flight views of a Spotted Kestrel, and a small flock of Lemon-bellied White-eyes. Across the bay, a small number of Black-naped Terns appeared to be nesting on the tip of the island and, on the way back across an ever more agitated sea, we saw about eighty, as well as a close Brown Booby, distant Great-billed Heron, and more Beach Thick-knees. After a second breakfast, we packed up and headed for the ferry to east Java. The sea was still calm enough (it got worse in the afternoons) for a pleasant crossing, though birds were few apart from one or two Bridled Terns. After a relaxed lunch in a roadside restaurant, we continued on to Baluran National Park. Driving through the park, we soon noticed our first Green Peafowl, though not a full-on male, as well as some attractive Green Junglefowl. It was a typically hot, dry afternoon and, after checking into the inexplicably basic accommodation at Bekol, we checked out the nearby water hole. Here we were able to get great views of more Green Peafowl, including a perfect full-trained male. Before and after dinner, people ventured back to the water hole with spotlights, and the lucky few were able to see a huge bull Banteng that was clearly very keen to have a drink. Two Asian Palm Civets were doing their best to drag off a Long-tailed Macaque carcass. Next morning we got down to a nearby evergreen forest patch at dawn, in search of the stunning Grey-cheeked Fulvetta!! Unfortunately they only called briefly and distantly. We made do with great views of both Red and Green Junglefowl, an adult and juvenile Crested Goshawk, large numbers of Green Imperial-Pigeons, and a Mangrove Whistler. After breakfast, we checked-out the coastal forest at Bama. No sooner had we go out of the vehicles, than we were looking at the tit-babbler, and had prolonged views of two pairs. Continuing on down a trail, we found large numbers of Oriental Pied Hornbills, a superb White-bellied Woodpecker, the diminutive local race of Greater Flameback (the female of which has a golden- 4 Birdquest: Java & Bali 2008

5 yellow crown), large numbers of Island Collared-Doves, and a vocal Slender-billed Crow. After lunch back at Bekol, and a rest during the searing mid-day heat, we headed off for our hotel near Banyuwangi. Banyuwangi was our base for visits to the Ijen region, situated in the Ijen-Merapi-Maelang Reserve, which encompasses several high volcanic peaks. We had only one full day to spend at Ijen, so set off very early to do some predawn night birding. We got off at the lower forest levels (only c.1050 m), and had not gone far before we heard Rufous Woodcock roding. With such large canopy gaps, we all expected it to show itself but only two people managed to see dark shapes. It seems that they don t like to fly over open areas, preferring to double-back over the treetops. To compound matters, it also transpired that most group members couldn t actually hear its high-pitched calls! Then, for the fourth time on the tour, we heard Javan Owlet calling. Making our way to within close range we tried again to lure out this awkward bird, but there was still no joy as it called from secure dense foliage. Eventually it shifted, and gave three rather brief flight views. At one stage, the woodcock, owlet and a Javan Frogmouth could all be heard simultaneously! As light gathered, our vehicles carried us further up the mountain slopes, struggling considerably with the steep incline, and also flushing a couple of Horsfield s Thrushes from the roadside drains. We took a trail between 1400 and 1750 m, in search of the endemic White-faced Partridge, which was probably our most wanted bird at Ijen. The trail had become badly overgrown and, to compound matters, there were no calling partridges. We were having a bad start to the morning, so headed up above the forest level to the crater trail junction, where we could get some coffee with our packed breakfasts. Some local men trotted by with their heavy baskets full of sulphur chunks from the crater. It was a lovely sunny morning, and our luck was soon to turn. A small flock of Mountain White-eyes alighted close by, and once we had refuelled, we drifted slowly back downhill. A harsh call soon took our attention, and we got our first views of Javan Bush-Warbler. A pair of Golden Whistlers put in a brief appearance along with many tame Sunda Bush-Warblers, and then there were even better prolonged views of Javan again. Reaching the mid forest levels of the road, we heard White-faced Partridge calling just over the bank above us. We carefully positioned ourselves, and kept absolutely motionless. A quick play of the territorial call was enough to bring a pair trundling straight towards us, and the bolder males salient features were clear for all to see with the naked eye. Great stuff. Then, a bird flock passed through in front of us, and we found our first White-bellied Fantail, an endemic which is perhaps commoner here than anywhere else. An excellent lunch was motorcycled up to us, and moving down to the lowest levels, we found our final major target here, the endemic Black-banded Barbet, several of which showed really well. Other good birds found during the day were two different male Orange-breasted Trogons, Yellowthroated Hanging-Parrot (in flight as usual), a nice female Banded Kingfisher, Wreathed Hornbill, Checker-throated and Grey-and-buff Woodpeckers, numerous Sunda Minivets, Sunda and Lesser Cuckoo-Shrikes, Crested Jay, and a leader only Tawny-breasted Parrotfinch. On the following morning, we still had time for a few hours birding at the lower forest levels at Ijen, and while we were having breakfast, Keith found a fantastic Horsfield s Thrush that was hanging-out where some rotten fruit had been thrown down a slope. It gave great views, as did both Eye-browed and Pygmy Wren-Babblers, Snowy-browed Flycatcher, and Lesser Shortwing. Heading back to Banyuwangi, we packed our bags and headed off for the car ferry back to Bali. The return ferry crossing was quite eventful. As we approached Gilimanuk there were large numbers of terns; Black-naped, Roseate, Bridled, Great Crested and Little, and both Lesser Adjutant and Greatbilled Heron could be seen in Gilimanuk Bay. To spice things up, we had a small pod of Indo-Pacific Bottle-nosed Dolphins, and even a loafing Green Sea Turtle. The slow drive back to Denpasar airport was uneventful, and we said goodbye to Hans and Ann-Margreth. For the rest of us, there was another day in Bali, due to an administrative hiccup. Dawn the next morning saw us back at Benoa Harbour, where we had even better views of the three Javan Plovers that we had seen previously, as well as the Savannah Nightjars. A single Grey-tailed Tattler was also a welcome addition to the trip list. We headed further south to the cliffs of Uluwatu, 5 Birdquest: Java & Bali 2008

6 an important Hindu temple. Here, with a wide blue sea before us, we had good looks at both Greater and Lesser Frigatebirds, as well as a distant Brown Booby. But best of all, we had good views of a superb pair of White-tailed Tropicbirds in partial display at eye-level, and ended the tour on a real high. 6 Birdquest: Java & Bali 2008

7 SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by (NL). PHAETHONTIDAE White-tailed Tropicbird Phaethon lepturus: A pair of these beautiful birds were seen well from the cliff-top at Uluwatu. The longer tailed male had a dash of yellowish-buff in his plumage. SULIDAE Brown Booby Sula leucogaster: Singles were seen at sea off Bali Barat and Baluran National Parks, and at Uluwatu. PHALACROCORACIDAE Little Black Cormorant Phalacrocorax sulcirostris: The largest concentrations were those breeding on Pulau Rambut, where we reckoned at least 1500 birds. Little Pied Cormorant Phalacrocorax melanoleucus: Two flew over at Benoa Harbour, the only sighting. ANHINGIDAE Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster: Good numbers at Maura Angke, but only three at Pulau Rambut. FREGATIDAE Christmas Island Frigatebird (Christmas F) Fregata andrewsi: In Jakarta Bay, on the way back from Pulau Rambut, we counted at least 200 of these Critically Endangered birds out of a total of c250 frigatebirds, and had some very close views from our boat, particularly of those resting on bamboo poles. Amazingly, I have since found out that Nick Brickle was out with a team counting frigatebirds the day before us! They got further afield, and counted 400 birds. These numbers are exceptional apparently. In 2003, the breeding population was estimated at only c.1200 pairs. Great Frigatebird Fregata minor: Nice views of an adult male with the next species at Uluwatu. Lesser Frigatebird Fregata ariel: At least two juveniles on the way back from Pulau Rambut, and at least eight at Uluwatu. ARDEIDAE Great-billed Heron Ardea sumatrana: Two singles were seen at Bali Barat National Park; on the way back from Teluk Brumbun, and feeding in Gilimanuk Bay. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea: The biggest concentration was an estimated 100 at Pulau Rambut. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: At least 150 were counted from the tower at Pulau Rambut, and there were scattered other sightings. Striated Heron (Little Heron) Butorides striatus: Singles at Maura Angke, Pulau Rambut and Benoa Harbour. Javan Pond-Heron Ardeola speciosa: Seen at a number of sites with many in their immaculate breeding plumage. Particularly abundant at Benoa Harbour. Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus: Frequently encountered during journeys on Bali. This recent split is apparently much longer-necked than Western. Pacific Reef-Egret Egretta sacra: Just two at Pulau Rambut. Great Egret Egretta alba: Scarce, but at least 50 at Pulau Rambut. Little Egret Egretta garzetta: Scattered sightings, but at least 100 at Pulau Rambut. Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: At least 50 at Maura Angke, 120 in Bogor Botanical Gardens, and 50 at Pulau Rambut were the best counts. 7 Birdquest: Java & Bali 2008

8 Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus: Just one at Maura Angke. Black Bittern Dupetor flavicollis: At least three were seen at Maura Angke, including scope views of a perched bird. CICONIIDAE Milky Stork Mycteria cinerea: Due to the slightly early running of this tour, we were able to enjoy endless views of at least 13 birds (8 adults and 5 juveniles) from the tower at Pulau Rambut. The breeding population has apparently been less than 25 pairs since at least 1985, and this year there were thought to be about six nests; so the guard was talking complete rubbish when he said there were 100 birds! Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus: Rod spotted two circling, during our final drive down from Ijen. Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus: Sightings of two singles; between Menjangan and the Gilimanuk ferry, and in Gilimanuk Bay. THRESKIORNITHIDAE Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus: At least 60 at Pulau Rambut. Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus: At least 150 at Pulau Rambut, very impressive. ANATIDAE Sunda Teal Anas gibberifrons: At least four at Maura Angke, 30 en route in the Jakarta area, and eight at Benoa Harbour. ACCIPITRIDAE White-bellied Sea-Eagle (W-b Fish-Eagle) Haliaeetus leucogaster: A pair at Pulau Rambut had a nest that contained at least one small chick. Crested Serpent-Eagle Spilornis cheela: Best seen at Baluran National Park, where two different birds were seen perched. Besra Accipiter virgatus: A single bird zapped past us at Gunung Halimun National Park. Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus: An adult and juvenile were seen at close range in an evergreen forest patch at Baluran. Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis: A single bird at Gunung Halimun NP, and two at Ijen. Javan Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus bartelsi: A juvenile was seen twice near the hot springs at Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP, and there were two sightings of singles at Gunung Halimun. FALCONIDAE Black-thighed Falconet Microhierax fringillarius: After seeing a fly-over at Gunung Gede-Pangrango National Park, we had prolonged scope views of one at Bali Barat NP; eating a juvenile Java Sparrow! Spotted Kestrel (Moluccan Kestrel) Falco moluccensis: One briefly at Benoa Harbour, and then excellent flight views of one at Teluk Brumbun, Bali Barat NP. Both found by Rod. PHASIANIDAE White-faced Partridge (Grey-breasted P) Arborophila orientalis: Two came charging-in at Ijen. Luckily, everyone kept motionless, and the male showed very well. Binoculars not required! Another bird was heard. Endemic to east Java, and a new bird for Birdquest. Chestnut-bellied Partridge Arborophila javanica: Although regularly encountered during our walks up and down Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP, not everyone was fortunate enough to get good views. Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus: Two males and a female at Baluran NP, and two single males at Ijen. The endemic race bankiva. Green Junglefowl Gallus varius: Two were heard at Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP, and then we had good numbers including many splendid males at Bali Barat and Baluran NPs. 8 Birdquest: Java & Bali 2008

9 Green Peafowl Pavo muticus: At least 20 at Baluran, including a superb, perfect male at the main Bekol water hole. Several others were heard at dusk and dawn. Voted equal fifth favourite bird of the tour. TURNICIDAE Barred Buttonquail Turnix suscitator: One was seen at Bali Barat NP by the leader only, and another was flushed at Baluran. RALLIDAE Ruddy-breasted Crake Porzana fusca: Just one at Maura Angke. White-browed Crake Porzana cinerea: At least four were seen well at Maura Angke. White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus: Common at Maura Angke. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Small numbers at Maura Angke. Black-backed Swamphen Porphyrio indicus: At least six at Maura Angke. Previously lumped with several other forms as Purple Swamphen P. porphyrio. CHARADRIIDAE Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola: At least six at Benoa Harbour. Javan Plover Charadrius javanicus: A pair and presumed juvenile of this restricted-range split from Kentish Plover were seen well by all of us at Benoa Harbour. Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii: At least 20 at Benoa Harbour. SCOLOPACIDAE Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata: At least 15 at Benoa Harbour. Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus: Three roosting in a tall tree top from the tower at Pulau Rambut were a surprise, and we also found at least 15 at Benoa Harbour. Common Redshank Tringa totanus: At least four at Benoa Harbour. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: Small numbers at Benoa and Bali Barat. Grey-tailed Tattler Heteroscelus brevipes: Dave picked one out during our last visit to Benoa Harbour. Rufous Woodcock (Dusky W) Scolopax saturata: Two were heard roding at both Gunung Gede- Pangrango NP and at Ijen. At the latter site, where it was heard as low as 1,050 m elevation, one or two of us managed to see a dark shape flying over. Unfortunately, it only calls when it is still dark before dawn, and doesn t like to fly over open areas! Sanderling Calidris alba: Two at Benoa Harbour, during our first visit. Beach Thick-knee Esacus magnirostris: Good views of a pair on the beach at Teluk Brumbun, Bali Barat NP, and three more seen by Rod on the way back. Always a pleasure to see, on the regions more undisturbed beaches. STERNIDAE Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus: One on the way back from Pulau Rambut. Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica: Two at Benoa Harbour. Roseate Tern Sterna dougallii: Five were seen resting on a buoy, with other terns, off Gilimanuk Bay, west Bali. The wing pattern was consistent with this species, which breeds around the coasts of Java & Bali, and all red bills are not unusual. Several images of birds with all red or nearly all red bills can be viewed on OBC images. Black-naped Tern Sterna sumatrana: Very common at sea off west Bali and east Java, with 80 on the way back from Teluk Brumbun, 85 off Baluran NP, and 75 off Gilimanuk. It appeared to be nesting on a beach at the tip of the island opposite the Brumbun landing, and on some man-made structures off Gilimanuk. Aleutian Tern Sterna aleutica: Two presumed first summer birds were seen well on the way back from Pulau Rambut, particularly one bird that was resting on flotsam. The white crown (giving a bald-headed appearance) and shortish, slender black bill were noted, and when 9 Birdquest: Java & Bali 2008

10 the bird flew, the dark terminal band along the underside of the secondaries was clearly visible. Aleutian Tern typically rests on flotsam (in Hong Kong they are nick-named poleutian tern!), with their wing-tips pointing somewhat upwards. The wintering range of the species is still not fully known, but there are recent sightings from Java, Bali, Komodo and Sulawesi. Like Bridled Tern, it is not considered to be a Sterna any more, and is now placed in the genus Onychoprion. Bridled Tern Sterna anaethetus: A pair were seen very well with other terns off Gilimanuk. Now placed in the genus Onychoprion, with Sooty and Aleutian Terns. Little Tern Sterna albifrons: Small numbers along the coasts of Bali and east Java. Great Crested Tern Sterna bergii: Common at sea throughout. COLUMBIDAE Sumatran Green-Pigeon Treron oxyura: This Java & Sumatra endemic was quite common at Gunung Halimun NP, with at least 13 seen, and some nice scope views. Pink-necked Green-Pigeon Treron vernans: Small numbers were seen well at Maura Angke and Bali Barat. Orange-breasted Green-Pigeon Treron bicincta: A male and female were scoped separately at Baluran. A look at some of the photographs on the internet confirmed my thoughts on the female, so we can conclude that the field guide is completely useless! Pink-headed Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus porphyreus (H): Two were heard rather distantly near the hot springs at Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP, and another at Ijen, where two probables were seen briefly in flight. Black-naped Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus melanospila: Good scope views of one at Bogor Botanical Gardens and several others seen less well and heard. Green Imperial-Pigeon Ducula aenea: Common at Baluran NP, with 70 logged. Pied Imperial-Pigeon Ducula bicolor: About 20 seen well at Pulau Rambut. Dark-backed Imperial-Pigeon Ducula lacernulata: Regularly seen in flight and heard at Gunung Halimun. Good scope views of one perched bird. Rock Dove Columba livia: Rather scarce. Ruddy Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia emiliana: Two near the hot springs at Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP, and two on the outskirts of Bali Barat NP; the latter at surprisingly low elevation (i.e. sea-level). Little Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia ruficeps: One was scoped at Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP, and four were seen in flight at Gunung Halimun. Island Collared-Dove Streptopelia bitorquata: Commonly seen at coastal locations, particularly in Baluran NP, where we counted at least 50 in coastal forest at Bama. Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: Common throughout. Zebra Dove (Peaceful Dove) Geopelia striata: Common at Bali Barat and Baluran NPs. Emerald Dove (Green-winged Dove) Chalcophaps indica: A total of five singles at Gunung Halimun, Bali Barat, and Baluran NPs. PSITTACIDAE Red-breasted Parakeet Psittacula alexandri: Just one at Baluran NP. Surprisingly scarce. Yellow-throated Hanging-Parrot Loriculus pusillus: The usual thing! Birds were heard or seen in flight at Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP, Gunung Halimun and Bali Barat NPs, and at Ijen. CUCULIDAE Sunda Cuckoo Cuculus lepidus: Split from Oriental Cuckoo some time ago, this species was regularly heard in mountain forests. An adult and juvenile were seen at Gunung Gede- Pangrango NP. Banded Bay Cuckoo Cacomantis sonneratii: One was scoped at Bogor Botanical Gardens. Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus: A few were seen at Maura Angke, and we heard one at Bogor Botanical Gardens. 10 Birdquest: Java & Bali 2008

11 Rusty-breasted Cuckoo (Indonesian Cuckoo) Cacomantis sepulcralis: Although commonly heard, singles were only seen at Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP and Gunung Halimun NPs. Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopacea: One vocal male at Pulau Rambut. Chestnut-breasted Malkoha Phaenicophaeus curvirostris: Small numbers at Gunung Halimun NP and Ijen. Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis: Two on the outskirts of Bali Barat NP. Sunda Coucal Centropus nigrorufus: At Maura Angke, we had rather distant views of at least two birds, including one in the scope thanks to Jonathan. Harder to see now that improvements have been made at the reserve!! STRIGIDAE Javan Scops-Owl Otus angelinae: After a very early start, and eventful uphill walk in the dark at Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP, we were rewarded with crippling views of this secretive endemic. Voted third best bird of the trip. Javan Owlet (J Barred O) Glaucidium castanopterum: Luck seemed to be against us with this difficult endemic, and we had to make do with several brief silhouette flight views at Ijen. We spent extended predawn periods trying to see two calling birds at Gunung Gede- Pangrango NP, and a pair at Gunung Halimun NP, as well as the Ijen bird. PODARGIDAE Javan Frogmouth Batrachostomus javensis: A similar scenario unfolded to the one that we experienced with the owlet, though how we could not get perched views of two calling pairs at Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP remains almost unbelievable. We also tracked a calling bird at Gunung Halimun NP, which was seen in flight, and three at Ijen. CAPRIMULGIDAE Savannah Nightjar Caprimulgus affinis: Best seen at Benoa Harbour, where at least eight were flushed, and performed in broad daylight. Salvadori s Nightjar Caprimulgus pulchellus: At Cibeureum Waterfalls, Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP, we scoped a pair that were illuminated by combined spotlight power, and a surprising amount of detail could be seen. A nightjar seen briefly at Gunung Halimun NP may also have been this species. APODIDAE Edible-nest Swiftlet Collocalia fuciphaga: Commonly seen throughout. Cave Swiftlet (Linchi Swiftlet) Collocalia linchi: Even commoner. Little Swift (House Swift) Apus affinis: Various sightings during journeys. Asian Palm-Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis (NL): Small numbers were seen on route in west Java and Bali. HEMIPROCNIDAE Grey-rumped Tree Swift Hemiprocne longipennis: Good numbers at Gunung Halimun (where it was seen perched) and Bali Barat NPs. TROGONIDAE Javan Trogon Harpactes reinwardtii: An excellent tour for this species, with five seen and another heard. At Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP, Hans found a pair that were later seen with a juvenile in tow, and at Gunung Halimun, a pair were seen well. A gorgeous and spectacular endemic with a distinctive quiet call. Orange-breasted Trogon Harpactes oreskios: Two superb males were scoped at Ijen, and it was also heard twice at Gunung Halimun NP. The endemic nominate race. 11 Birdquest: Java & Bali 2008

12 ALCEDINIDAE Blue-eared Kingfisher Alcedo meninting: Three sightings this year, at Maura Angke, Bogor Botanical Gardens, and at Telaga Warna. Small Blue Kingfisher Alcedo coerulescens: One at Maura Angke, and good numbers at Benoa Harbour. Banded Kingfisher Lacedo pulchella: Great scope views of a male at Gunung Halimun NP, and a female picked-out by Jonathan at Ijen. Javan Kingfisher Halcyon cyanoventris: On the way to Bali Barat from Denpasar, we stopped to scope-up one of these excellent large kingfishers. Several others were seen during journeys in west Bali. Collared Kingfisher Halcyon chloris: Commonly seen. Sacred Kingfisher Halcyon sancta: Two of these austral migrants were scoped at Benoa Harbour. MEROPIDAE Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaulti: Small numbers at Bali Barat NP. Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus: A pre-roost flock of 25 were seen on the coast at Baluran NP. CORACIIDAE Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis (NL): Rod saw one on the outskirts of Bali Barat NP. BUCEROTIDAE Wreathed Hornbill Aceros undulatus: Two pairs were seen in flight at Ijen, and it was also heard. Oriental Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostris: Many great sightings of at least 25 birds in the coastal forest at Bama in Baluran NP. MEGALAIMIDAE Fire-tufted Barbet Psilopogon pyrolophus: Up to six were seen towards the hot springs at Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP, including one entering a nest-hole. This species is not supposed to occur on Java (occurring only in Sumatra and the Malay Peninsula), and most people believe that the population is of captive origin. Photographs taken during the tour show no obvious differences from Sumatran and Malaysian birds. Lineated Barbet Megalaima lineata: Several of these widespread barbets were seen well at Bali Barat NP. Brown-throated Barbet Megalaima corvina: Some good sightings of this large Javan endemic at Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP and Gunung Halimun NPs. Black-banded Barbet (Javan B) Megalaima javensis: Good numbers were found at the lower forest levels at Ijen, and we had some great views of this Java & Bali endemic. Orange-fronted Barbet (Blue-crowned Barbet) Megalaima armillaris: This Java & Bali endemic was common in the forested mountains. Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala: Three at Bogor Botanical Gardens and two at Bali Barat. The highly distinctive endemic red-faced and -throated subspecies rosea, a potential future split. PICIDAE Rufous Woodpecker Celeus brachyurus: Two of these small, black-billed woodpeckers were found at Gunung Halimun NP. Laced Woodpecker Picus vittatus: One calling bird was seen poorly in an evergreen forest patch at Baluran NP. Crimson-winged Woodpecker Picus puniceus: Several were seen at Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP and Gunung Halimun NPs, and then in the lowlands at Baluran. 12 Birdquest: Java & Bali 2008

13 Checker-throated Woodpecker Picus mentalis: Two pairs eventually showed well for us all at Ijen. According to the Handbook of the Birds of the World, there is only one record from east Java, so the race here may be an undescribed one. Following DNA studies, it is now placed in the genus Chrysophlegma, with Banded Woodpecker and Greater Yellownape, and is not closely related to Crimson-winged, despite appearances. Common Flameback (C Goldenback) Dinopium javanense: One was scoped on the outskirts of Bali Barat NP. White-bellied Woodpecker Dryocopus javensis: Great views of a male in coastal forest at Bama, Baluran NP, and another heard drumming. Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker Picoides macei: Several sightings at Maura Angke, Bali Barat and Baluran NPs, and Benoa. Sunda Woodpecker Picoides moluccensis: Several at Maura Angke, Bali Barat and Baluran NPs. Grey-and-buff Woodpecker Hemicircus concretus: A calling pair passed through the forest at Ijen rather too quickly. The nominate race. Greater Flameback (G Goldenback) Chrysocolaptes lucidus: In coastal forest at Baluran NP, we had scope views of a golden-crowned female of the distinctive strictus subspecies. This small buffy-washed race is endemic to east Java, and a potential future split. EURYLAIMIDAE Banded Broadbill Eurylaimus javanicus: After hearing several at Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP, we had nice scope views of one at Gunung Halimun NP. PITTIDAE Banded Pitta Pitta guajana (H): Heard calling commonly one evening on the outskirts of Bali Barat NP, and at Ijen. HIRUNDINIDAE Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica: The commonest and most widespread hirundine on Java and Bali. Striated Swallow Hirundo striolata: Two at Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP, and another at Gunung Halimun. CAMPEPHAGIDAE Black-winged Flycatcher-Shrike Hemipus hirundinaceus: Commonly recorded throughout. Malaysian Cuckoo-Shrike (Javan Cuckoo-Shrike) Coracina javensis: Just one at the lower levels of Gunung Gede-Pangrango. Sunda Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina larvata: A male at Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP, and a male and female at Ijen. Lesser Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina fimbriata: Just a single male at Ijen. Pied Triller Lalage nigra: One at Maura Angke. White-shouldered Triller Lalage sueurii: Several observations at both Bali Barat and Baluran NPs. The eastern replacement of the latter species. Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus: An obliging small flock on the outskirts of Bali Barat. Sunda Minivet Pericrocotus miniatus: Many observations of this smart bird during the tour, at all three montane forest locations. Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus: Small numbers at Baluran NP and Ijen. CHLOROPSEIDAE Common Iora Aegithina tiphia: Frequent sightings. Blue-winged Leafbird Chloropsis cochinchinensis: A single at Gunung Gede-Pangrango, and then common at Gunung Halimun NP. The endemic green-crowned race nigricollis, which some observers are proposing be split. 13 Birdquest: Java & Bali 2008

14 PYCNONOTIDAE Sooty-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus aurigaster: Widespread, but particularly common at Baluran NP. Orange-spotted Bulbul Pycnonotus bimaculatus: Small numbers of this Java, Bali & Sumatra endemic were regularly seen at Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP and Ijen. Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus goiavier: Common in the lowlands in non-forest areas. Olive-winged Bulbul Pycnonotus plumosus: One in coastal forest at Baluran NP. Grey-cheeked Bulbul Alophoixus bres: Several sightings at Gunung Gede-Pangrango and Gunung Halimun NPs. Sunda Bulbul Iole virescens: Frequent sightings of the endemic greenish race virescens at all the montane forest locations, but most common and conspicuous at Ijen. A Java and Sumatra endemic. DICRURIDAE Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus: Several at Bali Barat and Baluran NPs. Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus: Widespread sightings of the relatively pale grey leucophaeus. Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer: Several at in the bird-waves at Gunung Gede- Pangrango and Gunung Halimun NPs. Hair-crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus (NL): The only record was of one at Pulau Rambut. Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus: Several in the bird-waves at Ijen. Southern races have only a short crest, and are smaller than northern forms. ORIOLIDAE Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis: Seen or heard at several localities, but especially common at Pulau Rambut. CORVIDAE Crested Jay Platylophus galericulatus: A calling bird flew across the road at Gunung Halimun NP. Racket-tailed Treepie Crypsirina temia: Singles were seen at Maura Angke and Benoa Harbour. Slender-billed Crow Corvus enca: One vocal bird at Baluran NP. Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos: One at Pulau Rambut and two at Benoa Harbour were the only records. Both this and the last species occur on Java & Bali, so the coding in the plate section of the field guide is typically confusing! PARIDAE Pygmy Tit Psaltria exilis: Regularly seen in flocks of two to six birds at Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP, particularly along the edge of the botanical gardens. Two were also seen at Gunung Halimun NP. One of the worlds smallest birds! Grey Tit Parus cinereus: Widespread sightings in various habitats and at various elevations. SITTIDAE Blue Nuthatch Sitta azurea: A common component of bird-waves in the montane forests, and always a delight to see. TIMALIIDAE Horsfield s Babbler Malacocincla sepiarium: Commonly heard, with several seen at Gunung Gede- Pangrango NP. Chestnut-backed Scimitar-Babbler Pomatorhinus montanus: At Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP, two were seen by the leader, and four by Hans. Another was briefly seen at Ijen. Eye-browed Wren-Babbler Napothera epilepidota: Several great views of this neat little wren-babbler at montane forest locations. Pygmy Wren-Babbler Pnoepyga pusilla: Regularly seen at all three montane forest locations, with one performing particularly well on a small rubbish heap at Gunung Gede-Pangrango. 14 Birdquest: Java & Bali 2008

15 White-breasted Babbler Stachyris grammiceps: This threatened lowland forest endemic turned out to be quite commonly seen at Gunung Halimun NP; with a mono-species flock of about seven showing particularly well. Singing birds that responded to playback went high in trees and were amazingly hard to spot. White-bibbed Tree-Babbler (White-collared Babbler) Stachyris thoracica: This cracking Javan endemic showed incredibly well on the lower slopes of Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP, and was also seen at Gunung Halimun and Ijen. The nominate race at the first two locations, and orientalis in the east, with a dark grey crown to nape and blackish lower border to the white bib. Unlike the book illustration, some birds at Gunung Gede- Pangrango can show some grey on the crown, according to OBC images. Voted equal fourth favourite bird of the tour. Crescent-chested Babbler (Pearly-cheeked Babbler) Stachyris melanothorax: This Java & Bali endemic was seen and heard frequently at the montane forest locations, and also heard at Baluran NP. Grey-cheeked Tit-Babbler Macronous flavicollis: Good views of two pairs at Bama, in Baluran NP. The picture in the field guide is quite ridiculous. Photographs can be viewed on OBC images, and the streaks are there! Rufous-fronted Laughing Thrush Garrulax rufifrons: Superb views of a flock of eight or so of these endemic laughingthrushes on the way up to the hot springs at Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP. At least two others were heard. White-browed Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius flaviscapis: Frequent sightings at the montane forest locations. Chestnut-fronted Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius aenobarbus: Particularly common at Gunung Gede- Pangrango NP. Javan Fulvetta Alcippe pyrrhoptera: This sultry Javan endemic was common at Gunung Gede- Pangrango and Gunung Halimun NPs. Spotted Crocias Crocias albonotatus: We had some great views of this distinctive endemic babbler at both Gunung Gede Pangrango and Gunung Halimun NPs. TURDIDAE Lesser Shortwing Brachypteryx leucophrys: Splendid views of this skulker on Gunung Gede- Pangrango NP, including several feeding along the trail at first light. Also seen at Ijen, and heard at Halimun. White-browed Shortwing Brachypteryx montana: Two pairs were seen during our hike up to the hot springs at Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP. The nominate race, which is endemic to western Java. Magpie Robin (Oriental M R) Copsychus saularis: Ten at Pulau Rambut were the only ones seen. Perhaps an indication of the impact of bird-trapping in Java! Sunda Blue Robin Cinclidium diana: A real beauty that was encountered on many occasions along the trails at Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP, and also at Gunung Halimun NP. Occurs only on Java and Sumatra. Lesser Forktail Enicurus velatus: Some great looks at this Java & Sumatra endemic, which was frequently encountered at Gunung Gede-Pangrango and Gunung Halimun NPs. White-crowned Forktail Enicurus leschenaulti: Less common than the last species, at the same locations. Javan Cochoa Cochoa azurea: One of the highlights of the tour, for those that ventured high enough at Gunung Gede-Pangrango NP, was the wonderfully tame pair of these endemic cochoas that we saw feeding quietly on berries near the hot springs. Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata (NL): Iain saw two on the way down from Ijen. Javan Whistling-Thrush Myiophonus glaucinus: This endemic was commonly seen at Gunung Gede- Pangrango NP, with smaller numbers at the other montane forest locations. Blue Whistling-Thrush Myiophonus caeruleus (NL): Dave saw two at Gunung Halimun, including one under the research station! 15 Birdquest: Java & Bali 2008