SUMATRA. 1 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Sumatra 2012

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1 1 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Sumatra 2012 SUMATRA Friday 8th June Saturday 23rd June 2012 (16 days) Southwestern Sumatra Pre-Tour Extension from Sunday 3rd June (5 days) Enggano Island Post-Tour Extension to Wednesday 27th June (4 days) Leader: János Oláh Group Size Limit: 6 Tour Category: Easy to Demanding, but mostly Moderate Lying at the northwestern end of the Indonesian archipelago, the fascinating and little explored island of Sumatra is the second largest of the Greater Sundas one of the biologically richest areas on Earth. Stretching nearly 2,000 km from end to end, it is one of the world s largest islands. Less populated than adjacent Java, Sumatra has an extraordinary wealth of natural resources which today form an integral part of the Indonesian economy. Its remote jungles, forested volcanoes and fascinating variety of peoples and cultures make any visit to this mystical island an unforgettable experience. Sumatra boasts nearly 400 resident species, many of which are shared with the Malay Peninsula and the other Greater Sundas. Of primary interest, however, are the 26 or so (depending on which taxonomic authorities you believe) strict endemics, although some of these are known from just a handful of specimens or are from small Salvadori s Pheasants (Nik Borrow) offshore islands, and the several Sundaic endemics that are shared only with Borneo or Java. Although this is primarily a tour for those who want to see the exciting endemics of this important island, our exploration of Sumatra will also give us the opportunity to see a wide variety of Indo-Malayan species, from the broadbills, trogons and hornbills of the lowland rainforest to the many montane species that inhabit the highland forests. Fortunately, Sumatra is endowed with some excellent national parks, and we will be concentrating on two of these; Way Kambas, a lowland rainforest in the south, and Gunung Kerinci, a forested volcano (still active!) in the centre of the island. Our entry point to Indonesia will be Jakarta on Java from where we will first travel to Way Kambas, in the south of Sumatra. Way Kambas is perhaps best known ornithologically for its population of the endangered White-winged Duck, which we have a good chance of seeing. In addition, many lowland specialities occur here: storks, occasionally including the rare Storm s Stork, frequently fly over the river and the dense forests hold a whole host of species ranging from the spectacular Green Broadbill and Banded Pitta to rare nocturnal denizens such as the remarkable Large Frogmouth. Next we will travel to Padang from where we will make our way to Gunung Kerinci which, at 3805m, is the highest peak in Sumatra. This remote area has recently hit the headlines with detailed reports of a new terrestrial ape, as yet unknown to science. Here we will explore mist-clad montane forest as well as nearby submontane forest and waterfalls. During our visit to Gunung Kerinci we have a good chance of finding many of Sumatra s endemic species including Pale-headed (or Sumatran) Frogmouth, Cream-striped and Spot-necked Bulbuls, Sumatran Drongo, Sumatran Treepie, Rusty-breasted and Sumatran Wren-Babblers, and Shiny and Sumatran Whistling Thrushes. We will also hope to find some Sundaic endemics including many of the following: Sumatran Green Pigeon, Pink-headed Fruit Dove, Sumatran Trogon, Sunda Cuckoo-Shrike, Sunda Minivet, Sunda Bulbul, Sunda Laughingthrush, Sunda Blue Robin, Lesser Forktail, Sunda Warbler, Indigo Flycatcher and Black-capped White-eye. We will also have a good chance of finding some of Sumatra s rarest birds which include Salvadori s Pheasant, Schneider s and Graceful Pittas, and Sumatran Cochoa, though, as with many of these spectacular families, the dense forest makes them very difficult to find! The optional pre-tour extension will visit Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park in the western coastal region of southern Sumatra. This remarkable park protects the southern end of the Barisan Mountain Range. It was here, after nearly a century, that the Sumatran Ground-Cuckoo was rediscovered as recently as Our primary goal is to see this rare ands shy forest denizen, but in addition we will be wanting to see the endemic Buettikofer s Babbler, White-capped Munia and some other special birds. Our post-tour extension will visit the island of Enggano, which lies approximately 100 kilometres (60 miles) southwest of the mainland and is about 35 kilometres (22 miles) long and about 16 kilometres (10 miles) wide. This Indian Ocean island has an area of roughly 500 square kilometres, yet the highest point is only 281m above

2 2 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Sumatra 2012 sea-level. This remarkable but rarely visited place has several types of forest habitat, some of which are still intact. Our prime targets here will be the four endemics; Enggano Scops Owl, Enggano Thrush, Enggano Myna and Enggano White-eye. In addition to these little-known birds we may find the distinctly different island forms of Longtailed Parakeet and Ruddy Cuckoo-Dove, both of which potential future splits. Other interesting birds on the island include Red-legged Crake and Sunda Thrush. Birdquest has operated tours to Sumatra since Itinerary Storm s Stork (Nik Borrow) Day 1 The tour begins in the late morning at Jakarta airport from where we take an afternoon flight to Bandar Lampung, the capital of Lampung province in southern Sumatra, for an overnight stay. Day 2 This morning we shall proceed by road to Way Kambas National Park for a four nights stay. On the way, we will pass through many small rural settlements and paddyfields before we catch our first sight of the forest. We will be staying at a pleasant lodge at the edge of the national park, and as we drive inside we will stop en route in the degraded secondary forest to look for a few species we will not find in the forest proper, such as Red Junglefowl. As we leave the degraded areas behind us, we will continue a few kilometres through the forest to the Way Kanan sub-station, situated adjacent to the river of the same name, which will be our birding base while we visit the park. This afternoon we will have our first opportunity to explore the bird-rich forest around Way Kanan. Days 3-5 Way Kambas National Park contains some of the best and most easily accessible lowland rainforest in Sumatra. Although most of the area has been selectively logged in the past, the forest has recovered well and continues to host some of South-East Asia s more elusive species. During our stay here we will explore the forest around Way Kanan, using old logging trails and transects which were cut by a university expedition. A clearing at the Way Kanan river is a particularly good vantage point. Blue-crowned Hanging and Blue-rumped Parrots frequently zip overhead and we will keep a lookout for Lesser Adjutant and Storm s Stork, as well as hornbills (including the rare Wrinkled). There are frequently fruiting trees around the clearing and if we are fortunate enough to find any we will have the opportunity to watch barbets, including the dazzling Red-crowned, Blue-eared, Coppersmith and Brown, and pigeons including Little and Thick-billed Green Pigeons, and Green Imperial Pigeon. As we move into the rainforest we will be surrounded by the sounds of bird song and cicadas, and we are likely to be greeted by the comical wailing of the resident Agile and Siamang Gibbons. Mammals are a prominent feature of the forest; tree-shrews and squirrels frequently dart across the trails, troops of macaques and wild pigs roam through the forest and langurs bound through the trees. We are also likely to encounter Siamangs here. These stocky and charismatic all-black gibbons are often seen swinging acrobatically through the foliage, advertising themselves by their varied song a mixture of resonant booming notes and at times almost human-like cries. Way Kambas is famous for its population of Asiatic Elephants and Tigers, but although we are likely to hear occasional elephants trumpeting in the distance, we will be very lucky to see either species. As we walk quietly through the forest we have a good chance of finding a Banded Pitta this electrically coloured gem somehow becomes almost invisible in its forest environment. Other skulkers we may see include the colourful Crested Partridge (with its punk-like crest), Crested Fireback, many babblers including the strange Fluffy-backed Tit-babbler and Black-throated Babbler (and if we are really lucky the near-mythical Malaysian Rail-Babbler). Higher up, in the mid-canopy and canopy, there is plenty to look for. Among the more interesting species we may see are Redbilled, Chestnut-breasted, Black-bellied and Raffles s Malkohas, Scarlet-rumped, Red-naped and the beautiful Diard s Trogons, Banded and Rufous-backed Dwarf Kingfishers, Banded, Blackand-yellow, Dusky and Green Broadbills, Fiery Minivet and Rufous-tailed Shama. Woodpeckers are also a prominent feature of the park, ranging from the diminutive Rufous Piculet to the giant White-bellied Woodpecker, and also including Common Goldenback, Rufous, Checker-throated, Crimsonwinged, Buff-necked, Grey-and-buff, Maroon and Sunda Woodpeckers, whilst flycatchers include Pied Fantail, Black-naped Monarch, Rufous-winged Flycatcher, Asian Paradise Flycatcher and the elusive Grey-chested Flycatcher. We will also spend time exploring the swamps and open forest along the Way Kanan river. We shall explore up-river, either travelling in small dug-out canoes, if conditions allow, or on foot to a larger swamp. Our main goal here is the endangered and elusive White-winged Duck, which still survives in reasonable numbers. It is thought the birds are mainly nocturnal, raiding the adjacent paddyfields under cover of darkness to feed. Strangely, many of the individuals at Way Kambas are partly albino. Other birds we may see close to the river include Lesser and Grey-headed Fish Eagles, the bizarrely-shaped Silverrumped Swift, Blue-eared and Stork-billed Kingfishers, Pink-necked and Cinnamon Green Pigeons (the latter a surprisingly difficult species to catch up with anywhere else), Black-and-red Broadbill (with its amazing two-tone bill), Malaysian Blue Flycatcher and White-chested Babbler, and with luck we will find an Oriental Darter or a Jerdon s Baza. Way Kambas is an excellent locality for nocturnal species. During our pre-dawn forays into the forest we may see, amongst others, Reddish Scops Owl, Brown Hawk Owl, Brown Wood Owl and the stunning Oriental Bay Owl as well as Gould s, Sunda and even Large Frogmouths, though all of these can be frustratingly difficult to spot amongst the dense foliage. In addition, Malaysian Eared Nightjars are often a prominent feature around the clearing at dawn

3 3 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Sumatra 2012 and dusk, and we have a good chance of seeing the rare and little known Sundaic endemic Bonaparte s Nightjar which has recently been recorded from the area. Other species we are likely to see at Way Kambas during our stay include White-bellied Sea Eagle, Crested Serpent Eagle, Changeable Hawk- Eagle, Black-thighed Falconet, Emerald Dove, Zebra Dove, Banded Bay, Rusty-breasted, Plaintive, Violet and Drongo Cuckoos, Greater Coucal, Asian Palm Swift, Whiskered Treeswift, White-throated Kingfisher, Dollarbird, Black Hornbill, Scarlet Minivet, Black-winged Flycatcher- Shrike, Green Iora, Greater Green, Lesser Green and Blue-winged Leafbirds, Olive-winged, Cream-vented, Red-eyed, Spectacled, Hairybacked, Yellow-bellied and Buff-vented Bulbuls, Bronzed and Greater Racket-tailed Drongos, Dark-throated Oriole, Asian Fairy Bluebird, Slender-billed Crow, Black Magpie, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Black-capped, Short-tailed, Ferruginous, Sooty-capped, Scaly-crowned, Rufous-crowned, Moustached, Chestnut-rumped and Chestnut-winged Babblers, Chestnut-backed Scimitar- Babbler, Striped Tit-Babbler, Oriental Magpie-Robin, White-rumped Shama, Whitecrowned Forktail, Flyeater, White-winged Ducks (Nik Borrow) Ashy and Rufous-tailed Tailorbirds, Yellow-bellied Prinia, White-breasted Wood- Swallow, Hill Myna, Plain, Purple-naped, Ruby-cheeked and Crimson Sunbirds, Little Spiderhunter, Crimsonbreasted, Yellow-breasted and Orange-bellied Flowerpeckers, White-bellied Munia and, with luck, the Sundaic endemic Javan Munia. Day 6 After some final birding at Way Kambas we will drive back to Bandar Lampung and take an afternoon flight to Jakarta for an overnight stay. Day 7 This morning we will take a flight to Padang on the west coast of central Sumatra. From here we will travel by road to a small village near Sungai Penuh. Although not a great distance, the roads in this remote area of Sumatra are not fast and we will not arrive until the afternoon. The village of Keresek Tua will be our base for the next five nights. Situated right at the foot of Gunung Kerinci, only a tea plantation lies between us and the spectacular classic cone-shaped volcano. If time permits, we will begin our exploration of this endemicrich mountain this afternoon. Days 8-11 The moss-clad forested slopes of Gunung Kerinci offer some of the most challenging and exciting birding in South-East Asia. The whole area is so remote and unexplored that there are even recent reports of a new species of terrestrial ape living in the forest, known to the locals as orang pendek (Indonesian for short man ). Recent surveys have also shown that there is still a population of the endangered Sumatran Rhinoceros as well as Tigers in the extensive tracts of remaining forest, though the chances of us encountering any of these species are exceedingly slim! It was here that Schneider s Pitta was re-discovered as recently as 1988 and amongst the other enigmatic and little known species that occur are such gems as Salvadori s Pheasant and Sumatran Cochoa. From Keresek Tua we will travel daily through the tea plantations, where we may encounter species such as Black-shouldered Kite, Spotted Dove, Lesser Coucal, Long-tailed Shrike, Yellow-vented Bulbul and Scaly-breasted Munia, and into the montane forest beyond. There is a narrow though well-maintained trail which leads to the summit of the volcano. Although popular at the weekends, it is usually quiet during the week and we should have the trail mostly to ourselves. At the forest edge we will search for the characterful endemic Sumatran Treepie and another Sundaic endemic, the Sunda Minivet (which has nearly all-red females). Many of the birds we shall be searching for are ground dwellers, and consequently difficult to see in the luxuriant undergrowth. We will hope to see the endemic Red-billed Partridge (which is sadly now very shy due to hunting pressure) and the endemic Rusty-breasted and Sumatran Wren-Babblers (the latter a rather top-heavy looking species that has been split from Long-billed). Wrenbabblers are a prominent feature here, with Pygmy and Eyebrowed also present. With four full days and a morning at Kerinci we have a good chance of coming across two or three of the most difficult endemics, which are Schneider s Pitta, Salvadori s Pheasant, Bronze-tailed Peacock-Pheasant and the beautifully-coloured though incredibly rare Sumatran Cochoa. The thrush family is well represented. As we walk along the trail we should encounter the endemic Shiny Whistling Thrush, which often seems inquisitive, and the shyer and more elusive Sumatran Whistling Thrush. Lesser Shortwings are replaced at higher altitudes by White-browed Shortwings, while Sunda Blue Robins (another Sundaic endemic) occasionally flick on to the path. The graceful Sumatran Trogon (another Sundaic endemic) should put in a few appearances, along with Firetufted Barbet (with its cicadalike song), Rufous-vented Niltava and the Sundaic endemic Indigo Flycatcher. We should frequently encounter bird parties. Blue Nuthatch, Mountain and Black-capped White-eyes (the latter a Sundaic endemic) and Sunda Warbler (another Sundaic endemic) will be regular constituents of the flocks, whilst larger birds may include Long-tailed Broadbill, Sunda Laughingthrush and occasionally Sunda Cuckooshrike (the latter two species also being endemic to the Greater Sundas). We will also visit the forest at night when we will have a chance to look for the little-known Rajah s Scops Owl (confined to the Greater Sundas), Salvadori s Nightjar (endemic to Sumatra and Java) and the amazinglooking endemic Pale-headed (or Sumatran) Frogmouth, though as always they will be much easier to hear than see. Other birds which we have a good chance of seeing whilst at Gunung Kerinci include Barred Cuckoo-Dove, Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon, Mountain Imperial Pigeon, Oriental Cuckoo, Sumatran Owlet (split from Collared), Greater Yellownape, Barwinged Flycatcher-Shrike,

4 4 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Sumatra 2012 Grey-chinned Minivet, Sooty-headed Bulbul, Lesser Racket-tailed and Ashy Drongos, Orange-spotted Bulbul (a Sundaic endemic), Grey-throated and Golden Babblers, Chestnut-capped Laughingthrush, Whitebrowed Shrike-Babbler, Longtailed Sibia, Mountain Leaf Warbler, Little Pied Flycatcher, White-throated Fantail and Fire-breasted Flowerpecker. Mammals other than squirrels and tree-shrews are not prominent here though recent sightings have included Hog-badger and Clouded Leopard! On one afternoon we will visit a nearby area of forest fragments, streams and waterfalls where we should find the elegant Sundaic endemic Lesser Forktail as well as have a chance for the elusive Giant Swiftlet. Day 12 After a final morning birding on the lower slopes of Gunung Kerinci we shall drive to Sungai Penuh for a three nights stay. Along the way we will pass a number of paddyfields where we may encounter Purple Heron and Cattle, Intermediate and Little Egrets. Days The road between Sungai Penuh and Mauro Sako passes some excellent forest. The forest here is at a lower elevation than the areas we will have explored Sumatran Treepie (Craig Robson) at Gunung Kerinci and here we may find four more endemic species which are not usually found higher up, namely Sumatran Drongo, Cream-striped, Sumatran and Spot-necked Bulbuls, and the beautiful Blue-masked and Sumatran Leafbirds. We may also encounter such species as Black and Blyth s Hawk-Eagles, Rufous-bellied Eagle, Little Cuckoo-Dove, Green-billed Malkoha, Whitebellied Swiftlet, Rhinoceros and Bushy-crested Hornbills, Black-browed and Goldwhiskered Barbets, Black Laughingthrush, Spot-necked Babbler, Brown Fulvetta, Hill Prinia, Yellow-bellied Warbler, Verditer and Grey-headed Flycatchers, Black-andcrimson Oriole, and Plain and Temminck s Sunbirds. On the lower slopes we will search for species more typical of lowland rainforest such as Banded Kingfisher, Red-bearded Bee-eater and Black-crested Bulbul (the distinctive race here has a red throat and is sometimes split as Ruby-throated Bulbul), while the roadside scrub holds the Sundaic endemic Bar-winged Prinia. Other species we may see while exploring the Mauro Sako area include spectacular Helmeted and Wreathed Hornbills, Red-throated Barbet, Blackheaded, Cinereous (split from Ashy), Grey-bellied and Streaked Bulbuls, the attractive Scaly-breasted Bulbul, Crested Jay, Horsfield s Babbler, Spectacled Spiderhunter and Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker. With luck we will encounter one or two of the rarer species found here such as Sumatran Green Pigeon (endemic to the Greater Sundas), the shy White-crowned Hornbill, the rare and little-known endemic Graceful Pitta (this close relative of the Garnet Pitta has only recently gained recognition as a full species in its own right), the poorly-known Marbled Wren- Babbler, Rufous-chested and Rufous-browed Flycatchers, and the scarce and elusive White-tailed Flycatcher. We will also have another chance to look for the secretive Bronze-tailed Peacock Pheasant. Day 15 This morning we will return early to Mauro Sako to look for any species that we have not yet encountered. Later we will drive to Bengkulu on Sumatra s west coast for an overnight stay. Day 16 This morning we will take a flight back to Jakarta airport where the tour ends. Enggano Island Post-Tour Extension Itinerary Day 16 We will have some time for birding around Bengkulu today before taking the overnight ferry to remote and little-visited Enggano Island. Day 17 We will arrive in Enggano this morning for a two nights stay. We will have most of the day to explore the island. Day 18 The island of Enggano lies approximately 100 kilometres (60 miles) southwest of the mainland and is about 35 kilometres (22 miles) long and about 16 kilometres (10 miles) wide. This Indian Ocean island has an area of roughly 500 square kilometres, yet the highest point is only 281m above sea-level. This remarkable but rarely visited place has several types of forest habitat, some of which are still intact. Our prime targets here will be the four endemics; Enggano Scops Owl, Enggano Thrush, Enggano Myna and Enggano White-eye. In addition to these little-known birds we may find the distinctly different island forms of Long-tailed Parakeet and Ruddy Cuckoo- Dove, both of which potential future splits. Other interesting birds on the island include Red-legged Crake and Sunda Thrush. If weather conditions are suitable we also have a chance for Christmas Island Frigatebird. Day 19 After some final birding on Enggano we will catch the overnight ferry back to Bengkulu. Day 20 Morning arrival at Bengkulu from where we will take a flight back to Jakarta airport where the extension ends. Southwest Sumatra Pre-Tour Extension Itinerary Day 1 The extension begins in the late morning at Jakarta airport from where we take an afternoon flight to Bandar Lampung, the capital of Lampung province in southern Sumatra, for an overnight stay. Day 2 Today we shall drive to the town of Liwa and then trek into the remote forest of Way Titias in Bukit Barasan Selatan National Park where we will camp for three nights. The trek takes about six hours, with a few stops along the way, and takes us first through rolling coffee plantations, then down into a small stream bed which we will follow for a few kilometres before climbing up into primary forest. We will arrive in time for some initial exploration. Days 3-4 Way Titias is one of those areas of accessible foothill forest where the steepness of the terrain has preserved the habitat from

5 5 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Sumatra 2012 clearance for agriculture. Fortunately, once inside this beautiful primary rainforest, the trails are good and pleasant to bird from. He we will surely hear the farcarrying all of the elusive endemic Sumatran Ground- Cuckoo, a species that was lost for a century before being rediscovered here in 2007! This is surely one of Southeast Asia s rarest and most soughtafter birds, but seeing (as opposed to hearing) this remarkable creature certainly requires some luck as well as persistence. There are plenty of other birds in this forest and amongst these we have a good chance of finding a number that are not usually seen on the main tour, including Bluebanded Kingfisher, Chestnutnaped Forktail, Spotted Fantail, Fulvous-chested Jungle-Flycatcher, Maroonbreasted Philentoma and Yellow-eared Spiderhunter. The scarce Sumatran Trogon is surprisingly common in the forest around our camp and it is a delight to see such a bird on a regular basis. We also have extra chances here for some difficult-to-see species such as Ferruginous Partridge, Bronze-tailed Peacock-Pheasant, Salvadori s Pheasant, Graceful Pitta and Blue-masked Leafbird. Day 5 After a last morning at Way Titias we will return to Liwa for an overnight stay. On our way back we will be looking for some special birds of the forest edge and secondary scrub amongst the paddyfields such as the littleknown endemic Buettikofer s Babbler and White-capped Munia (a species thought to be endemic to Java until it was discovered here in southern Sumatra). Other species of this habitat which are not seen on the main tour include Ruby-throated Bulbul (split from Black-crested) and Baya Weaver. Day 6 After some final birding around Liwa we will drive back to Bandar Lampung and join those arriving for the main tour. (This is Day 1 of the main tour.) Accommodation & Road Transport: The hotels/lodges are of mostly of normal Birdquest standard. In Sungai Penuh (3 nights) we will be staying in a fairly basic but adequate hotel with rooms with private bathrooms. At Keresek Tua (5 nights) we will be staying in a basic but friendly family guesthouse with very basic shared bathroom facilities and no hot water. During the pretour extension three nights will be spent camping in basic conditions under tarpaulins with rattan beds. Washing facilities are the nearby stream! At Liwa, we will spend one night in a simple hotel with private bathrooms but no hot water. During the post-tour extension we will spend two nights in twin-berth cabins on the Enggano ferry and two nights in a basic losmen (guesthouse) on the island (with basic shared bathroom facilities). Road transport is by small coach or minibus and roads are variable in quality. Walking: The walking effort during the main tour is mostly easy, except at Gunung Kerinci where the walking is fairly strenuous. During the pre-tour extension the walking in the forest at Way Titias is easy to moderate, but the 6-hour trek to and from our campsite in the forest is strenuous, with some steep and slippery sections of trail and walking along a stream bed for up to two hours, sometimes in water up to knee deep. The walking during the post-tour extension is mostly easy. Climate: At Way Kambas the weather should be mainly hot and dry with perhaps an occasional, sometimes prolonged shower. At Gunung Kerinci the weather will be warm or hot lower down, but may be quite cool higher on the mountain. At this time of the year the weather is often largely dry, though afternoon showers are a common feature. At Way Titias and Enggano the weather will be warm or hot and regular late afternoon/evening rain is to be expected. Bird Photography: Opportunities are worthwhile.